Winery in Focus: Petaluma

Barry Weinman: 11^th March 2018

Petaluma was established by Brian Croser in 1976. In time, the winery was purchased by the  parent company of Hardy’s, and in 2004 Andrew Hardy took over winemaking duties, and has been in charge ever since.

Petaluma’s reputation revolves around three regions, each with a specific variety.

• Hanlin Hill in the Clare Valley: Riesling
• Piccadilly Valley in the Adelaide Hills: Chardonnay
• The Evans Vineyard in Coonawarra: Cabernet Sauvignon

In addition to these three, the winery has produced an excellent Merlot from time to time, and has now added a Shiraz to the range, along with a super-premium Chardonnay from the Tiers Vineyard.

The winery has also launched two new labels. The entry level White Label range and a series of limited release wines under the Project Co Label. And there is also Croser.…

My pick? The brilliant 2016 Chardonnay.

Reviewed

Petaluma – Riesling – Hanlin HIll – 2016. Fine, elegant, and intense with lime, as well as orange marmalade aromas. The palate has the trademark Petaluma richness that makes this a great drink, yet there is enough acidity to guarantee medium-term aging.

Petaluma – Chardonnay – 2016. Very fine and elegant nose, with subtle oak and lees aromas over peach and floral stonefruit. The intensity of fruit on the palate is a revelation, the creamy textural components serving to frame the fruit perfectly. Excellent length, there is an immediacy to the wine that is most attractive. 60% new oak.

Petaluma – Chardonnay– Tiers – 2015. A high impact wine, with more intense winemaking inputs that present as struck match and minerality. There is intense lemon, peach and nectarine fruit on the palate, with the oak adding depth and texture. That said, the structural components shut down the fruit on the close. Impressive power, balance and length, the wine is aged for 9 months in new French oak and undergoes 100% malo-lactic fermentation.

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. Opens with intense berry fruit over cigar box and cedary oak. On the palate the sweet fruit is defined by blueberry, blackberry and cassis. A powerful wine where the structural tannins and oak serve to shut down the fruit on the close. One for the long haul.

Brookland Valley Estate – New Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th February 2018

Brookland Valley Estate is part of the vast Accolade wine group, which includes labels such as Houghton, Arras and Hardy’s in Australia. Whilst many of the winemaking facilities are shared across the group, individual winemakers assume responsibilities for various brands. In the case of Brookland Valley, Courtney Treacher has responsibility for winemaking at the group’s Nannup winery.

The advantage of being part of such a large group is the ability to access high quality fruit from across the region. This means that Brookland Valley has access to some of the best fruit in WA for both their Chardonnays and Cabernets. This is helped by the fact that Houghton’s Jack Mann and Gladstones are single vineyard wines, so are not able to use fruit from other vineyards.

The high quality fruit, combined with slick winemaking has resulted in some very fine wines. The Chardonnays are aged in French oak for 9 months and undergo wild yeast and malo-lactic fermentation.

Here is a preview of the wines that are about soon to be released by the winery. As this was not a blind tasting (I tasted the wines with the winemaker), no points  have been awarded. Needless to say, all wines reviewed are of very high quality.

Reviewed

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Estate – 2017. Restrained, taut and fine, the white peach characters are a highlight. The palate is textured, with supple oak, superb mouth-feel and excellent balance. Very long and fine, this is approachable now, but will develop depth with time in bottle as the wine builds in the glass. 2017 was a cool year, which is reflected in the fine acid balance (40% new oak).

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015. Greater depth and power, with stone fruit, minerals, struck match and malo/lees notes. A powerful, textural wine that manages to show restraint and excellent balance. Superb drinking! From a classic Chardonnay vintage, the fruit comes exclusively from the Brookland vineyard (50% new French oak).

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Estate – 2015. Lighter, brick red colour. The nose is redolent of cigar box, mint, eucalypt and berry (almost cherry) fruit. On the palate, there is fine acid and tannin, with the oak adding depth. Serious, structured, textural and firm, this needs several years to evolve. From a cooler year, the fruit is hand-picked, open fermented and aged in French oak (30% new).

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013: More obvious blueberry fruit, with mint and eucalypt highlights. The power and density of the fruit is palpable and the palate is textured and finely structured. Brilliant wine!

Bay of Fires – Current Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 14^th February 2018

Bay of Fires is a Tasmanian winery located on the Pipers River in the Tamar Valley. The winery produces a range of cool-climate still and sparkling wines under the Eddystone Point and Bay of Fires labels.

Winemaking is led by Penny Jones, a Tasmanian native who has been with the winery since 2013, after a decade at Petaluma honing her skills. As senior winemaker, Penny is looking to build textural components to the wines, to complement the pristine fruit.

This is really evident in the Eddystone Point range, where the textural components really add to the drinkability of the wines, making them perfect for early consumption. As good as these wines are, it is the Bay of Fires range that is really exciting: Pristine cool climate fruit that has been expertly handled in the winery.

Reviewed

Bay of Fires – Riesling – 2017 ($31). The intensity and focus of this wine is impressive. Citrus, spice and musk in a restrained package with texture, mouth-feel and fine acidity that carries the palate. Very long and delicious, the 4.5g/l of residual sugar makes for a delectable wine that is also age-worthy.

Bay of Fires – Pinot Gris – 2017 ($31). Much more taut and restrained compared to the Eddystone, with fine texture and acid. Alsatian in style (aromatic and floral, with the mouth-feel building on the close. A very fine example, worthy of short-term aging.

Bay of Fires – Sauvignon Blanc – 2017. A more textural, savoury style, with grassy notes over the gentle tropical fruit. Would take food very well and has excellent length. The small amount of new oak (5%) combined with some lees stirring/aging add to the mouth-feel.

Bay of Fires – Chardonnay – 2016 ($45). Restrained and elegant, with lemon curd and stonefruit notes. The winemaker’s influences are turned down, but there is still complexity and excellent depth. The supple mouth-feel is a highlight and the wine is sure to age well over the next 5+ years. Barrel fermented and aged in new French oak for nine months, with partial malo.

Bay of Fires – Pinot Noir – 2016 ($45). Serious depth and power to the fruit, though there is an admirable degree of restraint on show. Cherry, earthy notes, forest floor and spice all in evidence. Great balance and excellent length, the oak adding a silky texture. From a warmer year, this sees 20% whole bunch fermentation, aged in French oak (20% new).

Seppeltsfield – New Release – February 2018

Barry Weinman: 11^th February 2018

After 167 years of producing fortified wines under the Seppeltsfield label, the winery has launched a new range of table wines. The initial release is made up of a Riesling, Grenache and Shiraz, all in brilliant new packaging.

The Riesling comes from the Garden of Eden vineyard which sits at an elevation of 400m in the Eden Valley, whilst the Shiraz is from a number of vineyards across the Barossa.

The Grenache was the highlight for me. The fruit came from old bush-vine Grenache from the Great Terrace vineyard, and is young, fresh, fruity and oh-so-drinkable. Made without oak influence, the juicy red berry fruit is the main focus. Whilst perfect for early consumption, this did take a day or so for the fruit to really open up, so a year or two in bottle would not hurt, or an hour in a decanter. Drink at cellar temperature (18⁰-20⁰).

These wines are the first in the new range of wines that will also include premium and ultra-premium wines over the next few years.

Reviewed

Seppeltsfield – Riesling – Barossa – 2017 (17.5/20pts $25). A more generous style, with citrus and even some stone fruit on the nose. There is an explosion of vibrant citrus fruit on a palate which feels just off-dry, resulting in a finely textured and elegant finish. Excellent drinking now, but five years in the bottle will not hurt.

Seppeltsfield – Grenache – 2017 (17.9/20pts $25). This is really pretty. Opens with fragrant ripe fruit that is vibrant and crammed full of red berry fruit. The palate is fresh, fleshy and fun, with cherry, berry and plum-like notes. The juicy fruit is offset by fine tannins and refreshing acidity, with no oak to speak off. Great with a bowl of pasta, or try a few years in the cellar. Drink at cellar temperature (18-20 degrees)

Seppeltsfield – Shiraz – 2016 (18/20pts – $25). A more structured wine than the Grenache, with greater depth and density to the fruit. Ripe and elegant, the palate is textured and slightly chewy, with coffee notes to close. Although quite tightly knit, this represents good drinking, but also offers cellaring potential.

Shiraz – New Release – January 2018

Barry Weinman: 28^th January 2018

Two pairs of wines stood out in this tasting, for both the quality of the wines, but also the contrasting styles between the wines.

Jericho’s Adelaide Hills Syrah is pretty and fragrant, whilst the sister wine from McLaren Vale is firm and dense.

Similarly, the Shottesbrooke GSM is deliciously juice and succulent, whilst the Shiraz is firm, structured and assertive. At $20 dollars per bottle, these two wines represent some of the best value wines that the panel has seen for a while.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2013 (18.5/20pts – $55). The fr  uit here is remarkable: restrained and tight, with the berry and mocha notes needing to be coaxed from the glass. Chewy, dense, powerful and very long, with very fine tannins that build and build. Whilst the balance is exemplary, this needs 10 – 20 years to be at its best.

Jericho – Syrah – Adelaide Hills – 2015 (18.3/20pts – $35). Fresh and vibrant, with pretty, fragrant cooler climate fruit. The supple palate is textured, long and delicious, with the quality oak allowing the fruit to shine. Really well made, this is a medium bodied Shiraz of great appeal.

Jericho – Shiraz – McLaren Vale – 2015 (18.3/20pts – $35). Wonderful wine with ripe fruit, chocolate/coffee complexity and supple oak. Long, refined, supple and fragrant, the mouth-feel is a highlight. Will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Barossa Trail – Shiraz – St Kitts Vineyard – 2016 (18/20pts – $35). Sweet, ripe red berries, with fine tannins and refreshing acidity. A fine, elegant wine with depth, supple tannins and excellent length. Will benefit from short term cellaring. From the team at Thorn Clarke.                                     

Shottesbrooke – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Estate Series – 2015. (18/20pts -$20). Pretty, fragrant and enchanting, this wine has lovely bright Grenache fruit. There are red berries to the fore, with a seam of white pepper from the Shiraz adding depth and texture. Fleshy, vibrant and succulent with decent length, this is great early drinking.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Estate Series – 2015 (18/20pts – $20). Firm, assertive and quite powerful, yet there is a degree of restraint to the fruit. Very long, the berry and cherry characters slowly build on the finish. A well-made wine with great density that could be drunk young, but would ideally benefit from 10 years in the cellar. From a very good vintage in McLaren Vale.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Vin Vale – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $15). A fine, almost pretty wine with juicy ripe cherry and blueberry fruit. The fruit persists on the long finish for some time, with the weight matching the fruit well. Great value drinking.

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $20). Chocolate fruit in a medium-bodied, approachable package. Plum, cedar and even a touch of spice on the palate, with excellent length to close. A delicious Barossa Shiraz that will be even better drinking with a couple of years in the bottle.

New Release – January 2018

Barry Weinman: 19^th January 2018

Pared down from over 50 wines tasted this week, here are my pick of the new release wines. They all offer superb drinking now, however the Cape Mentelle in particular is very age-worthy.

Reviewed

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Eden Trail – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $24). Refreshing and vibrant, with fresh citrus notes. The palate is long and supple, with fresh, cleansing lemony acid and decent length. Drinking a treat, this will be great on its own or with food. From Barossa.

Scotchmans Hill – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $25). Aromatic, fresh, grassy, herbaceous and zesty, this is a good drink. Reminds me a little of white Bordeaux, with 10% of the fruit fermented in old oak and the extended lees contact adding texture.

Stella Bella – Sauvignon Blanc – 2017 (17.5/20pts). Quite herbaceous, with lantana, gooseberry and hints of passionfruit. The palate is fresh and lively, the acid playing nicely on the close. Good length to finish. A refreshing and worthwhile wine for the warmer afternoons.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Laissez Faire – 2015 (18/20pts – $33). Attractive floral notes, with gun smoke and struck match aromas. This wine has been cleverly worked, with the smoky characters matched to quality fruit. Excellent length and depth, with a supple mouth-feel and quality oak. A powerful wine for sharing with friends over a meal. From the Porongorups.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (18.7/20pts – $108). Ripe, elegant and fine with wonderful depth to the fruit. Aromas of mint, eucalypt and blackcurrant, with even a touch of cassis and cigar box. The palate is a textural treat, with the fine tannins and supple, high quality oak adding depth. Very long and fine, with grace and presence, this is irresistible now, but will age for 20+ years.

Singlefile New Release – January 2018

Barry Weinman: 19^th January 2018

With the Christmas break behind us, the panel has got back to work , tasting over 50 wines this week to find you the best wines for January.

The highlight of the tasting was provided by the wines from Singlefile.

The Sauvignon Blanc is a fine example of a style made famous in Bordeaux. Wild yeast fermentation, partial oak aging (25% new French oak, 25% 1 year-old oak) and 5 months on lees. A wonderful wine with great depth.

If anything, the Singlefile Family Reserve Chardonnay is even better. From the Singlefile Vineyard planted in 1989, the fruit quality is superb. After whole bunch pressing, fruit was transferred to fine French oak (40% new) for fermentation and 9 months aging on lees, with weekly batonage. A small portion of the fruit (8%) underwent malolactic fermentation to aid mouth-feel.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – 2016 (18/20pts – $30). From the Stoney Crossing vineyard in Pemberton. Refined elegant and pretty, the fruit showing floral and perfumed notes and a touch of lemon zest. The gentle oak and lees work adds depth and texture to the palate without dominating the fruit. Silky, very long and food friendly, this is a lovely wine, and excellent value compared to a decent Chardonnay.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2016 (18.5+/20pts – $50). Supple, refined and elegant, with a core of ripe peach fruit complemented by gentle nuttiness. The palate is creamy and fine, with pineapple, citrus and melon fruit notes. This is a wine of great finesse, with subtle oak and lees work adding depth. Wonderful!

Cabernet Sauvignon: December New Release

Barry Weinman: 22^nd December 2017

Western Australian Cabernets shone in our latest Cabernet tasting, with Redman providing an excellent alternative from Coonawarra.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2014 (18.7/20 – $135). Wow, this is all class. Supple, ripe Cabernet fruit matched by fine oak and tannins. Structured and age-worthy, yet made in a way that makes this delicious now. Top wine!

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.6+/20 – $32). Great colour in the glass. Vibrant, pretty berry fruit aromas of real quality. The high quality, ripe fruit is a delight on the palate, with quality oak adding depth. Great length, with fine tannins build on the finish, shutting down the fruit a little. A very fine wine that could be drunk with pleasure any time over the next 10 – 15 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2014 (18.5/20). Plum, raspberry and some fresh mulberry for good measure. Serious, firm and tight, with high quality oak adding depth. The palate is near seamless and this is very easy to drink now. However, if you’re patient, this, will be great in 10+ years, as the fruit will have started to unwind. From the Batley Vineyard, aged in French oak.

Suckfizzle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18 – 18.5+). Dark, brooding, brambly fruit, with eucalypt and mint notes. Great depth to the fruit on the palate, thought the tannins are quite pronounced and get a bit chewy on the close. Impressive, but needs 20 years.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Blend – Aquitaine Rouge – 2014 (18/20 – $38). Whilst there is decent quality red-berry fruit on show, this is all about savoury structure right now. A dark, brooding wine, with chewy tannins and drying acidity. This is a serious, if austere style that needs ten years to start to open up. Quality oak to close.

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawarra – 2015 (17.8/20). The blackcurrant and berry fruit builds with air. Quite a serious wine that, whilst only medium bodied, has taut, structured fruit. Good length and depth, but this needs a couple of years to hit its straps.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Small Batch – 2015 (17.8/20 – $27). Lovely ripe fruit on the nose, with good intensity. The palate has fresh fruit, with enough tannins and acid to keep everything in balance. The oak plays no obvious role, just adding texture and mouth-feel. Not serious, but delicious short term drinking.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (17.8/20). Really good fruit here, in a supple, savoury frame. The texture here is a highlight, with the fine, graphite-like tannins adding texture but without dominating the fruit. This is medium bodied, with delicious ripeness to the fruit and tannins that build gently on the finish. Wonderful drinking now or over the next 5 – 7 years.

Aromatic White Wines

15^th December 2017: Barry Weinman

Wine can be a little confusing at times, given that grapes often have alternative names when grown in different regions. A good example of this is Pinot Gris, which has a number of different names, depending   on where it is grown: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinot_gris

When grown in Alsace, it is referred to as Pinot Gris, and produces an aromatic, fresh wine that can also take some bottle age. Whilst the same grape is called Pinot Grigio in Italy, and is made in a very different style, with much more neutral characters.

In Australia, both names are used interchangeably, and there does not appear to be a common approach as to when to use either name. I have tried some very fresh/fragrant Pinot Grigios for example.

Reviewed

Handorff Hill Winery – Pinot Grigio – Adelaide Hills – 2017 (18/20). This wine is pretty, fresh and aromatic, with rose petal, pear and lemony acid. A touch of viscosity combined with the well-managed phenolics and fruit characters that linger for some time, makes for a satisfying drink. A delicious wine that deserves a spot on every table this Christmas.

Cherubino – Pinot Blanc – Laissez Faire – 2016 (17.5/20 – $29). This has gentle aromatics and fine, almost feathery acid and is reminiscent of the wines from Alsace. Really nice mouth-feel, with the supple phenolics giving way to floral fruit characters, and the acid driving the finish. An excellent example of this little-seen variety and worth seeking out this summer.

Cherubino – Field Blend – Laissez Faire – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $29). Just smelling this wine made me yearn for food. Subtle aromatics showing a touch of turkish delight. The palate is quite neutral and has excellent mouth-feel. There is a bit of flesh to the mid-palate, but then it gets very dry to close. Bring on a piece of pan-fried snapper (a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Gris).

Howard Park – Jete – Brut – NV (17.5/20). Refined bead. Complex and rich, with depth of fruit to the nose. The palate is fresh, with gentle toasty notes and subtle autolysis. A refined wine that will be very enjoyable as a late afternoon drink with friends.

Juniper Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Crossing – 2017 (17.5/20 – $20). Tropical fruit and fresh lantana leap from the glass. The palate has the same fruit characters, though there is admirable restraint and balance. The inclusion of a portion of barrel-fermented fruit adds depth and supple texture.

Juniper Estate – Fiano – Small Batch – 2017 (17.3/20 – $27). A neutral, food-friendly wine, with enough acid to make the finish fresh. Textured, with some viscosity and a touch of phenolics. Good length. I really like the saline tang to close.

New Release Shiraz/Blends – November 2017

20^th November 2017

There are a very few wineries in Australia who, day in and day out, produce outstanding wines at prices that must surely make other winemakers cry. Two such wineries are Shingleback and Angove. Both are from McLaren Vale in South Australia, and both make extraordinary wines for the price.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2015 (18.5/20 – $41). Dense, powerful fruit on the nose, while the palate is flooded with chocolate/plum fruit. The tannins are barely perceptible on the finish, with the acid carrying the palate. It is only right on the close of the very long palate that the grip becomes evident. Like the 2016 Chardonnay, this wine demonstrates more fruit weight that I recall from previous recent vintages. Now – 20 years

Te Aro Estate – Shiraz – Charred Door – 2015 (18.4/20). Generous, powerful and intense fruit on the nose. The succulent ripe fruit coats the entire palate and lingers for some time. Refined, yet powerful, with the tannins really kicking in on the close. Oak matches the fruit well. A serious wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, or cellared for a decade or more. 15.6% alcohol, but takes this in its stride. Bravo!

Evans & Tate – Shiraz – Redbrook – 2012 (18.2+). Dark plum fruits here. Concentrated and dense, with chocolate and coffee highlights. The palate is closed and tight, with the fine tannins and oak blanketing the fruit. The mouth-feel is excellent and the length noteworthy, with excellent acidity. Needs 10 years to hit its straps.

O’leary Walker – Shiraz – Claire – Reserve – 2013 (18+/20). From 100 year-old vines. Lovely wine, with ripe, silky fruit and savoury/spice notes that add interest. Cherry and mint on the palate, with the oak adding depth, whilst the fine tannins start to close down the fruit on the finish. The souring acidity keeps the palate fresh and alive, despite the density of the fruit.

Woodvale – GSM – Hootenanny – 2014 (18/20). Initially a touch closed, but quickly opens up to show sweet fruit as well as cloves and cinnamon/spice notes. The fruit is succulent and long, and, whilst the palate initially appears straightforward, the length and persistence are deceptive. Great drinking over the next 5 – 8 years.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2016 (17.8/20 – $15). An excellent wine that is focussed and precise. The fruit quality is excellent, but it needs to be coaxed from the glass right now. With air, the sweet fruit opens to show its class with liquorice and menthol highlights. Great value!

Te Aro Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Jokers Grin – 2015 (17.8/20). This is all about the ripe fresh fruit, though there is also excellent texture and length. The fine tannins get a bit chewy on the close, adding to the mouth-feel. Excellent short-term drinking.

Angove – Shiraz – Wild Olive – Organic – 2016 (17.7/20 – $18). Another cracking wine from this in-form producer. There are loads of dark fruit, in a brooding, serious style. Supple fruit at first, however from the mid-palate, things are a little subdued, with the tannins and acid keeping a lid on the fruit. Will reward decanting now, or short-midterm cellaring.

After Hours – Shiraz – Oliver – 2015 (17.5++/20). I like this a lot. Dense, savoury fruit with real depth. Restrained, yet there is decent weight on the palate. The tannins are quite fine but steamroll the fruit from the mid-palate onwards. Likely to be excellent with a decade or two in the cellar.