Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Teusner – New Release

Mick And Kym

Reviewed: 22nd September 2013

I caught up briefly with winemaker Kim Teusner (pictured right) and viticulturalist Michael Page (left) to look through their range of wines to coincide with the release of the 2012 reds.

Teusner is a relatively new label, having released its first vintage of Joshua in 2002.  Since then, the team has been able to secure access to several old vineyards, and are producing high quality wines in a variety of styles and price points.

For me, the highlight of the tasting was The Family shiraz.  The fruit for this came from a single vineyard in the Stonewell sub-region of the Barossa and is chock full of Barossa goodness.  Whist this only has limited availability, it is worth tracking down as it really delivers on the price/quality scale.

 

Reviewed:

Teusner – Riesling – 2012 (17.5).  Typical Eden Valley style that is closed and restrained, with an oily minerality that adds interest.  The palate has lemony fruit and is well balanced.  While quite lean now, this has good mouth-feel and will fill out with a few years in the bottle.

Teusner – Sauvignon Blanc – Woodside – 2013 (17).  Lifted sherbet and lemon aromas with a nice zesty lift.  A balanced wine that avoids the pungency that some cool climate versions can get, yet retains a zesty freshness that defines the style.

Teusner – Shiraz – The Riebke – 2012 (17 – 17.5).  Delicious, ripe, red fruits here.  The palate is juicy, succulent and more-ish.  There is little in the way of oak on show, which allows the cherry, plum and redcurrant fruit to shine.  Now – 5 years.

Teusner – Shiraz – The Family – 2012 (18).  Compared to the Riebke, this has more depth, intensity and power, with cedary oak in the background.  The palate is structured, with some grip to close, courtesy of the oak and fruit tannins.  There is real depth, intensity and length to the superb fruit.  At $25, this is a bargain!

Teusner – GSM – Avatar – 2012. (N/A).

Teusner – Grenache/Mouvedre/Shiraz – Joshua – 2012 (18).  Really fragrant and spicy on the nose (fennel and thyme), while the palate is silky and supple.  This is deceptive as, whilst it is a lovely drink now, it has the power and structure to build and age with time.  The fragrant grenache fruit is the main feature, while the mouvedre and shiraz add structure and a peppery lift.

Teusner – Shiraz – Righteous FG – 2010 (18.5+).  Incredibly concentrated and essence-like.  The nose is an amalgam of superbly dense fruit and quality oak.  Despite being amazingly concentrated, the palate is supple and silky, with a degree of elegance on the finish.  The tannins are very fine and the length prodigious.  An amazing wine that is full of latent power.  Will live long!

St Mary’s Winery – 2012 Vintage

Reviewed: 30th July 2013

There has been a lot of talk of late about the respective quality of the last few vintages in South Australia.  Despite the predictions of dire effects on the wines from the lesser years, I have seen a number of excellent wines from 2011, whilst the 2008 Grange (considered to be an atypically hot year) was recently awarded 100 points by Wine Spectator.

When it comes to the current release wines from St Mary’s, they all come from the 2012 vintage.  This vintage has been uniformly praised by winemakers and critics as being excellent in all major South Australian regions and is reflected in the quality of this year’s release.

St Mary’s is based in Penola in the Coonawarra region and they have quite a prestigious address (V&A Lane).  Interestingly, the Mulligans chose to label their wines as Limestone Coast, rather than Coonawarra.

A fascinating component of this tasting was looking at all the Bordeaux varietals vinified separately.  It gave me an insight into the various characteristics that the individual components can contribute to a blend.  Actually, this may make for an excellent dinner party activity where guests could be given the challenge of making the best blend!

For me, the highlight was the Pinot Noir.  I do not know of many pinots coming from the Limestone Coast, but this is an excellent effort that made the panel sit up and take note.

Reviewed

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.5).  Excellent clarity in the glass.  The nose opens with pretty red fruits that are supple and vibrant.  This is an attractive, succulent wine of some charm.  The finish is full of minerals and the texture is spot-on.  The fruit characters include cherry, strawberry, anise and a hint of white pepper.  Varietally correct and very well made.

St Mary’s – Merlot – 2012 (17).  Good quality fruit here that has been sympathetically made.  Good mouth-feel and texture to a wine that can be drunk now, or in five years.

St Mary’s – Petit Verdot – 2012 (17).  This is quite a dense wine that is packed with essence-like fruit and prodigious tannins.  This is a big, powerful wine that combines intense fruit with structure and density.  If you are going to drink this now, it needs a big steak to balance the acidity.  Given time though, this will soften and integrate into a classy wine.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Franc – 2012 (16).  Compared to the fleshy fruit that the merlot possesses, this is a “bony” wine that is angular and lean.  With this wine, you can really see the attributes that cabernet franc can bring to a blend, but at the moment, the acidity dominates the leaner, red fruit characters.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – House Block – 2012 (17.5+).  Balance is the key here.  This has bright red and black fruit characters set against a background of cedar, spice, aniseed and clove.  Long and mouth-watering, the bright acidity adds to the appeal.  Whilst it is not the finest wine here, it is one that has the most immediate appeal.  This wine would make a great match with food now, or will evolve and build for many years.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – 2012 (17.5).  Really deep smelling, with sour plum, spice and cedary notes.  This is well made, and the fruit is of good quality, though it needs a few years to soften and really come together.  The peppery fruit on the close rounds out a smart wine!

Western Australia’s Best Cabernet Region?

Reviewed: 20th July 2012

Everyone knows that Margaret River makes Western Australia’s (and possibly Australia’s) best cabernet based wines.  Right?  They certainly make the most high quality cabernets of any region in Australia.  The region also produces the highest number of quality wines as a percentage of the total volume produced.

But what about the Great Southern region centred around Frankland River?  Cabernet, after all, is not the main focus here.  The focus in the region is primarily on riesling and shiraz.  Cabernet plays a much smaller role in the region’s output.

The question of where the best WA cabernets come from was brought into sharp focus with the current tasting, courtesy of the new release wines of Larry Cherubino.  Here is a producer that has access to some of the best fruit in the state.  Submitted for the tasting were both the Margaret River and Frankland River cabernets under the Cherubino label as well as Frankland River cabernets under the Yard and Ad Hoc labels.

The Frankland River Cherubino was the star of the tasting and, at $110/bottle, was also significantly more expensive than the Margaret River version of the same wine.  In fact, when compared to the Margaret River wine, The Yard and Ad Hoc (Frankland) wines from the same producer represents excellent value for the quality on offer.

So Cherubino’s best (and most expensive) cabernet comes from Frankland River, but what about other producers?  Well, Houghton produces a number of very high quality wines from Margaret River, but their most expensive wine is the Jack Mann from Frankland River.  Separately, in a recent tasting of some of Margaret River’s finest cabernets, it was the 2010 Abercrombie from Howard Park (18.5 – 19pts) that stole the show.  The only problem was that this wine is also from Frankland!

So, in summary, three of Western Australia’s finest cabernet producers each source the fruit for their top wines from Frankland River and, in the case of Howard Park, this is my equal highest pointed cabernet of the year.

So to the rest of the tasting….

The wines from Xanadu are in top form and their current release cabernets are outstanding.  The standard release 2010 cabernet is an absolute steal at around $35, whilst their special release wines are stylish and very age-worthy.

This was a very high quality tasting with a number of excellent wines.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2011 (18.5).  An excellent wine that has a Jeckle and Hyde character.  Initially, this is very structured, with lean, precise fruit and a very long and drying finish.  This really builds in the glass to show full, ripe and dense fruit of the highest quality.  Flavour characters include mint, eucalypt and a touch of menthol.  An excellent, no-compromise wine that demands time in the cellar (or at least an hour or two in the decanter) if you are going to drink it now.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18/18.5+).  Very complex nose that has savoury characters balanced by fresh fruit aromas.  Think cedar, brambly blackcurrant, licorice, pepper and black fruits with earthy, forest floor highlights.  The palate is taut and austere, the acid, tannins and quality oak subduing the fruit.  Opens to show really dense, bright fruit with superb mouth-feel and structure. This wine is a star and is destined for a very long future.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stephens Road – 2010 (18.3).  Precise nose. Precise palate.  This is a superb wine, where the quality fruit has been carefully crafted in the winery.  Restrained mint and eucalyptus are present on both the nose and palate.  The oak is very fine and silky, though in combination with the tannins, serves to shut down the fruit.  Elegant and age-worthy.  (Made in tiny quantities).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2011 (18+).  Touch of sweet and sour here.  This is a much bigger, more textured wine than some here, with dense, chocolaty fruit.  Very long and persistent, with a somewhat chewy finish, though the balance is spot-on.  This demands time, or a big steak now.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (18).  Lovely minty cabernet fruit to open on the nose, with slightly dusty, cedary oak and a touch of herbs.  The palate has bright redcurrant, cedar and spice.  The oak is well married to the high quality fruit and the tannins, whilst firm, are not aggressive.  Quite a pretty wine now, but the best is yet to come, as the texture and mouth-feel build and replace the overt fruit characters.  Although it lacks a bit of joy now, give it time to open and I am sure the marks will get even higher.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (18).  Whilst there is no doubting the quality of fruit that has gone into this wine, it is a touch disjointed at present, with the fruit at odds with the oak and tannins now.  Chewy, textured and dense, this is a powerful wine.  Like a jigsaw, the pieces will come together over time allowing the full picture to be seen.

Ad Hoc – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Avant Gardening – 2012 (17.9).  Smart wine here.  This has lean fruit, courtesy of the cooler region, though the fruit is fully ripe.  The palate is powerful, taut and full of nervous energy.  The finish is more about the structure, as the oak and fruit tannins shut down the fruit characters.  Whilst this is quite user friendly, I would still recommend decanting now to drink with a steak, or give it a few years to hit its straps.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8).  Cedar and spice on the nose, with a core of ripe fruit and regional mintiness.  The palate is dense, thick and textured, a wine with plump, ripe fruit.  Opens with air to show lovely minty fruit, good texture and fine tannins.  The oak is present, but not overt and carries the finish well.  Quite a big wine that could be drunk now or in 10 years.

Thompson Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5-18+).  Quite subdued nose that merely hints at the potential of this wine.  The palate is drying, long, savoury, restrained, fine and elegant, with dusty tannins framing the finish.  Beneath it all is serious, opulent fruit and good line and length in the mouth.  Just needs time to show its best.

Bussell – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – JG – 2011 (17.9).  A lovely wine that has ripe cabernet fruit as the focus.  The winemaking has been very sympathetic to the high quality, refined fruit, with the oak providing a framework in which the fruit sits.  Hints of mint and eucalyptus to close on a long, lingering finish.  Real potential here.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Il Cavaliere – 2010 (17.5).   Aromas of redcurrant and cedar to open.  Thick, dense fruit up front in the mouth, but the middle palate is quite subdued at first, with the tannins really closing this down.  Genuine Bordeaux style.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – Y series – 2011 (17.3).  Blackcurrant, cedar and cool climate fruit on the nose, with redcurrant fruit to close.  This is very persistent and elegant, the precise fruit well matched to the oak.  Good length, but needs 5 years to hit its straps.  Good value.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Unison – 2011 (17).  A solid wine that has lovely, cool climate, cabernet characters.  Mint, eucalypt and herbal notes to the fore on the nose, and these flow through to the palate.  The oak sits well with the ripe fruit and there is enough structure to take some aging.

Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay

Art Series Chardonnay – Pre-Release Tasting

Reviewed: 10th May 2013

Leeuwin Estate rightly has a reputation for producing one of Australia’s top few Chardonnays. When you combine the inherent quality with an unrivalled ability to age, I rate it as the country’s best.

As with almost all Leeuwin Estate wines, the chardonnay is held back in the cellar to allow it to come together before being released. This means that at a time when many wineries are selling their 2012 whites, we gathered to try Leeuwin Estate’s 2010 Chardonnay that is about to be released.

Given the quality, it is not surprising that the chardonnay gets the Rolls Royce treatment. The wine typically sees 100% new oak and great pains are taken to ensure that the oak is of the highest quality. Currently, the winery is using over 20 different types of oak barrels, supplied by a variety of coopers.

Each year, the composition of oak changes subtly as the winery adjusts the makeup to take advantage of the best coopers. In most years, there is no malo-lactic fermentation, the acidity is controlled in the vineyard via canopy management and astute grape harvesting. The vines that produce fruit for the Art Series Chardonnay are now 40 years old and are really in their prime.

Paul Atwood (Senior Winemaker) and Simone Horgan (Joint CEO) took the opportunity to show a mini-vertical of the Art Series Chardonnay, as well as a cross-section of current and upcoming releases from their stable of red wines. It has been an overriding aim of the winery to bring the quality of the reds up to that of the Chardonnay. The quality of the reds tasted suggests that they have succeeded admirably.

Finally, Paul gave me an overview of the 2013 vintage. The growing season started off with a burst of hot weather, giving wine-makers some concerns as to how balanced the fruit would be as it ripened. Later in the growing season however, the weather cooled considerably, allowing the fruit to finish ripening at a much slower pace. This meant that the grapes were able to develop excellent flavour profiles, without getting too high in sugar. It also allowed the grapes to retain excellent natural acidity.

The 2013 Riesling has just been blended and, apparently, the results are very good. The fruit was able to be taken off the vine quite early, with very balanced juice. Paul’s view is that 2013 will be a great year for their reds. The cool finish to the season allowed the fruit to develop excellent depth of flavours. The last cabernet was only picked in mid-April. Importantly, the chardonnay had excellent levels of acidity at harvest.

And the verdict?

The 2010 Art Series Chardonnay is the greatest Australian chardonnay I have ever tasted and is the equal of the greatest White Burgundies. The 2005 is another stunning wine that is just starting to hit its peak. The Prelude chardonnay is worth a mention given the excellent quality. Many wineries would be pleased have this as their premium wine!

Leeuwin Estate can quite rightly claim to be one of the finest wineries in Australia. It is the quality across the entire range that sets it apart from most.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate  – Riesling – Art Series – 2005 (18). This is remarkably fresh, with lime juice, minerals and gentle floral aromas. It has started to develop some toasty characters and just a touch of oiliness. The palate is quite rich and textured, with a touch of phenolic richness adding to the tasting. There is also a touch of nutty fruit to close. This is drinking superbly now, but will hold for a number of years. Paul suggests that the location of the vineyard, which sits in a valley, results in a cooler micro-climate compared to some of the other wineries in the region, allowing the riesling to flourish.

Leeuwin Estate  – Riesling – Art Series – 2012 (17.5- 18). Fragrant talc, minerals and subtle citrus characters on the nose. Like most Leeuwin rieslings that I have tried, this is quite closed and tight now, guaranteeing mid-term aging. The palate is true to the house style, with quite rich, powerful fruit complemented by a touch of phenolic richness. Quite different in style to those from the Great Southern, this needs a little time to settle and express itself.

Leeuwin Estate  – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Art Series – 2010 (18+). This leads off with wine-making influences resulting from barrel fermentation and regular lees stirring. The wine is complex, savoury, dense and textured. The grassy fruit characters really make their presence felt on the palate. There is bright, lemony acid and creamy, subtle oak on a palate that is very long and refined. The semillon adds depth to the palate with lovely citrus fruit. This makes many White Bordeaux’s look quite ordinary.

Leeuwin Estate  – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Art Series – 2011 (17.5-18). Very fresh compared to the 2010. The palate is much more linear and quite lean at first, suggesting that an extra year or two in bottle will really help. Opens to show lovely floral fruit on both the nose and palate in a pretty package. The oak influence on the palate is very subtle and fine, and the lemony acid carries the finish. The wine sees 11 months in barrel with weekly lees stirring. 20% of the oak is new. Given the development of the 2010, this is likely to improve for 5 years and may hold for much longer.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2012 (18). Very pretty fruit that is quite forward and floral on the nose. The palate is surprisingly powerful and intense, balancing peach like fruit characters with minerals, flint, match-strike and creamy oak. There is excellent length and mouth-feel and the fruit flavours linger. This is drinking remarkably well now, but should age for several years if you can resist. Sees 40% new oak, the remainder being second use.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2002 (N.R.). Developing, but still fresh. This was quite subdued on the nose, but opened with air. The palate is very powerful, with grapefruit followed by lovely stone-fruit and powerful minerality.  This gives way to a rich buttery finish. Delicious now.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2005 (18.7). Wow! This is lovely. An absolutely superb wine of great power and intensity, yet this has elegance and finesse. Superb length of flavours on a palate that is seamless and complete. There is still vibrant acidity that will ensure a very long life and the palate evolves for some time. A great wine from a perfect vintage.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2006 (17.9). This is quite different to the 2005, with a leaner fruit profile. The oak is just a little bit toastier than the 2005 and the palate more developed. A lovely wine that has excellent length and powerful fruit. For me, I would drink the 2006 now while waiting for the 05.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009 (18/18.5). Restrained fruit that is subtle and refined showing hints of minerals, citrus and stone-fruit. There is still the tremendous power to the fruit that I have come to expect, but this is still quite tightly coiled and shy. With time though, this will unwind and develop into a superb wine. The creamy, tight, fine oak provides a seamless backdrop to the pristine fruit. The potential is evident. A sleeper.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2010 (18.9). This wine screams class right from the outset. So where to begin? The nose is tight, fine, reserved, elegant and creamy, with stone-fruit (nectarine) and citrus highlights. The palate is incredibly long, supple and refined, with the fruit characters evident, but not obvious. There is a subtly to this wine that is disarming, given the amazing length and intensity of the fruit. This is a truly great wine that needs 5 years to open up and will last for 15 years.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2010 (18). Vibrant red fruits on the nose. The palate has blackcurrant, spice, tobacco leaf and subtle, cedary oak. There are even hints of licorice and the texture is excellent. This really builds in the glass and shows excellent structure, with the tannins providing a textural backdrop to the quality fruit. Delicious now, but will age for 5 – 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2008 (18.3).  Opens with aromas of mint, gentle eucalypt, spice and a touch of cedary oak. The palate has red and blackcurrant fruit of tremendous depth and intensity. The power is evident, but like the chardonnay, this is tight and restrained, needing time to really show its best. There is almost a touch of cassis, but this complements the berry characters rather than dominates them. The cabernet comes from unirrigated, 40 year old vines. Significant attention is given to canopy management to ensure ripeness without losing elegance.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2009 (18.5). This is an interesting contrast to the 2010. This is all about structure and texture, rather than overt fruit flavours. The balance is excellent, with the fruit flavours hidden in the structure. Nothing out of place, but this is a reserved wine built for the long hall. In many ways, this is very much like fine Bordeaux. Superb.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2010 (18/18.5). Beautiful ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is deliciously juicy, with remarkably concentrated fruit sitting under the youthful exuberance. The balance is spot on, but at this early stage of its life, the acid sits on top of the fruit on the finish. The oak is very fine and supple providing excellent texture without adding obvious flavour. Will be superb.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2011 (18 – 18.5). The nose on this is amazing. It is an absolutely complete package. There is ripe fruit, but you can almost smell the textural components that add complexity. The palate is balanced, fine, refined and delicious. This is remarkably approachable now, so many will not get to see how this will develop. Start saving, as this will not be released for a year or two.

Leeuwin Estate  – Shiraz – Art Series – 2010 (18+). Closed and tight, reflecting the power and balance that the 2010 wines from Leeuwin are all showing. Pepper and spice on a palate that is tight and structured, with clever oak use. The finish is almost chewy but still supple and very long. A wine of power but in a cooler climate package. Not to be underestimated. (The vines for this were planted in 1997).

 

 

Ostler – Current Release

Reviewed: 25th April 2013

I was pleased to have the opportunity to meet with Jim Jerram from Ostler recently to try their current range of wines as well as several older Caroline’s pinot noirs.

Located in the cooler Northern Otago sub-district of Waitaki Valley,  the pinot vineyard was first planted in 2002. The relatively thin top soil, with limestone substrate was the key attraction to the producers when they purchased the land for the vineyard.

The pick of the wines was the 2010 Caroline’s pinot. A superb wine that is worthy of time in the cellar. The bargain though, and the one that I will recommend the strongest is the Blue House Vines pinot from 2011. Not overly complicated, but bright and delicious.

Reviewed

Ostler – Riesling – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Floral fruit on the nose, with subtle spice. The palate is textured and there is a degree of phenolic richness. Whilst there is noticeable sweetness, the excellent length and acid on the finish sets this apart, leaving the palate relatively dry to close. An interesting alternative to Australian rieslings. This has 10.6 g/l of residual sugar and is the 1st vintage from this vineyard (planted in 2008)

Ostler – Pinot Gris – Audrey’s – 2011 (17). Lovely floral notes here. This is an amalgam of Turkish delight, spice and phenolic texture. Quite a chewy finish adds interest, but the finish is a touch closed at first. The mid-palate is viscous and textured and this opens and develops richness in the glass. There is good acidity to close. A portion of this wine ferments in old oak.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Blue House Vines – 2011 (17). Lighter hue than the other pinots tasted here. Soft, fresh and vibrant, this has attractive, albeit uncomplicated fruit aromas. The fresh cherry fruit is the key feature on the palate, though there is enough structure and souring acidity to make this quite delicious. This is an early drinking style that will work really well with food now.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2010 (18+). More density to the fruit compared to the Blue House Vines. The nose is closed, but hints at potential. The palate is dense, structured, powerful, and chewy. The tannins and oak are present, but add texture and complexity rather than overt flavours. With air, this opens to show sweet red fruits and the structure really builds. Whilst this is a wine that needs time to show its best, the balance is spot on. The wine has new world fruit, but is not as fleshy as many Central Otago wines.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (17.5). Typical of the style, but from a cooler year. Perfumed, spiced, floral, red fruits on display. In the mouth, this is silky and supple, developing texture and body on the mid-palate. Lovely texture and mouth-feel, this is very good drinking now, but also has the potential to develop more texture and complexity. Fined and filtered which is not normal for the producer.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2006 (17.5). Very seductive nose! Silky and supple, with masses of red fruit on the palate. Textured and soft, the dusty tannins add to the long, fine, spicy finish. Excellent persistence. Very impressive given the age of the vines.

Mixed Whites – New Release

Reviewed: 15 January 2013

This tasting was an opportunity to look at all the odds and sods that have been sitting on the tasting bench for the last month or two, looking for an appropriate tasting. The first challenge when tasting these blind was to try and work out what I was bench-marking them against.

The wines that have made it to this review all represent excellent current drinking. I also have a suspicion that the Deep Woods verdelho will age very well if someone wants to have a punt.

Reviewed

Deep Woods – Verdelho – Verde – 2012 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit here. This is a wholesome and lively wine with plenty of appeal. An excellent stand-alone wine to be served cold on a warm day. (Early picked, whole bunch pressed, 12.5%).

Shingleback – Viognier – John Foolery – 2012 (17). This opens with quite pretty aromatics, minerals and fragrant spice. Apricot comes to the fore on the palate, with lovely clean fruit and cleansing acidity. Long and savoury, this is a smart wine.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Long Row – 2012 (16.8). Pear, almond and spice on the nose. The palate is very neutral and more about texture and mouth-feel rather than overt fruit. The acid really brings this to life on the close and the length is good. This is a very good example of a grigio style and is well suited to food. I do not know how Angove produce wines of this quality for $10!

Yalumba – Viognier – Y Series – 2012 (16.8). Musk, stonefruit and herbal notes on both the nose and palate. This is a really interesting wine, with grassy notes over apricot fruit flavours. Quite powerful in the palate, this has excellent length and real depth, though there is some phenolic grip to close.

De Bortoli – Pinot Gri etc. – La Boheme – Act Three – 2012 (16.6). The nose has quite spicy and bright fruit, with musk, ripe pear and lychee aromas. The palate is quite ripe and textured and finishes quite soft and supple with good acid balance. An easy wine to like.

Lindeman’s – Pinot Grigio – Bin 85 – 2012 (16.4). Subtle spiciness on the nose with musk and nectarine. Very viscous, this has admirable life and vitality, especially given its budget price. The fruit is quite powerful and complemented by plenty of acid. The finish is a touch sharp, but is not unpleasant. Remarkably good for the price, this will be best served quite cold.

Bella Riva – Pinot Grigio/Vermentino – 2012 (16.3). Gentle and soft ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and round, with enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. The touch of phenolic richness adds texture. This is a good mid-afternoon drink.

New Release – Mixed Whites

Reviewed: 2 January 2011

This was a fascinating tasting with a large variety of grapes and styles. All of the reviewed wines represent an interesting alternative to the mainstream wines that dominate the market.

The highlight for the panel was the three wines from Lillypilly. These are high quality desert wines that possess a degree of lightness and balance that makes them a delight to drink.

Reviewed

Lillypilly – Noble Blend – 2008 (18.2). Restrained on the nose, this is very youthful and has remarkable lavender aromas. There is, again, that lovely balance of apricot and orange, with a freshness that makes this a delight to drink. Superb length and mouth-feel with the finish fanning out and evolving for more than a minute. Excellent wine!

Lillypilly – Noble Blend – Family Reserve – 2002 (18). Richer colour suggesting more bottle age. A bigger, richer wine with more complexity and greater length. The palate is viscous and mouth-coating, with lovely acidity preventing the finish from becoming cloying. Apricot jam and marmalade fruit to close. A lovely aged wine. (This is still available from the winery).

Lillypilly – Noble Harvest – 2006 (17.5). Sweet ripe apricots to the fore, with complex orange marmalade notes. Perfumed, this has a lightness the belies the style. Fresh and balanced, the moderate sweetness is balanced by fresh acidity. Has a lovely honeyed finish of some length. Not as much intensity as the 2008, but a lovely drink.

Tyrrell”s – Semillon – Brookdale – 2011 (17). Straw and lemon on a reserved and restrained nose, this has lovely poise and balance. Needs a few years to open up and show its fruit.

Yering Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – MVR – 2009 (17). Complex nose with apricot, orange peel, honey and cashew nut. Very complex, yet refined palate that is long and has well judged phenolics and viscosity. The best wine here from a textural component and European in style. Drink now.

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2011 (16.8). This wine took me by surprise. Very neutral nose initially, this became quite floral with air. The palate has both depth and breadth. Racy acidity adds to the package and the touch of sweetness fleshes out the finish.

Redbank – Garganega – 2010 (16.7). Another neutral wine that has plenty of life on the palate. Again, it is the fresh acidity that carries the palate. Good length and mouth-feel too. Has some character.

De Bortoli – Verdelho – “Deen” Vat 6 – 2010 (16.5). Perfume, pear skin, apricot, orange peel and musk. Lovely palate that combines crisp acidity with almond meal and fresh fruit. Good length, the hint of residual sugar adds balance and makes this a great drink.

Tyrrell”s – Semillon – Lost Block – 2011 (16.5). More zest and fruit up front compared to the Brookdale. The palate has lovely, lemony fruit. Quite textured, this has excellent fruit weight and length. Good value alternative to a sauvignon blanc.

Yalumba – Vermentino – The Y Series – 2011 (16.5). This is an interesting wine, with aromatic qualities similar to the Alsatian varieties. The palate is quite neutral, but with excellent acidity and good length. Mouth-watering, so would suit food well. Another good value wine from Yalumba.

Ulacia – Zuri/Beltza – 2010 (16). I was surprised to see this had frizzante when poured. Fresh and floral, this has none of the sweetness I was initially expecting. Bone dry, the palate is very drying and long. Indigenous Spanish white grapes. One to confuse your wine friends with.

New Release Whites

5 January 2010

Through the course of a year we taste hundreds of wines from each of the mainstream varieties (shiraz, chardonnay etc). This allows the panel to look at a single variety at most tastings. This is an acid test, as each wine is being compared against all others in the line up. Over the year, we receive wines from less common varieties as well. This tasting allowed us to look through a range of wines.

The surprise for me was the Moondah Brook verdelho. In the late 1990s through to the early 2000s, these wines were of high quality and delivered extra-ordinary value. It was apparent that Houghton was including a large proportion of premium South-West fruit in the blends. Whilst I am yet to see the latest red wines, the verdelho was a real treat.

On a different note, the Grossett Off-Dry riesling was a revelation. This has the purity of fruit typical of the Watervale region in the Clare Valley, but possessed a drinkability courtesy of the residual sugar that was outstanding. In one vintage, this has surely become the benchmark for the style in Australia. (Mr Grossett has made several previous vintages of this style, but this is the first that he has released under the Grossett label.

Finally, for a cheap sparkling wine, the Griffith Park is a good quaff.

Reviewed

Grossett – Riesling – Off Dry – 2010 (18.4). Subtler than the other two rieslings, this is much more akin to a dry riesling in style, with some tropical fruit notes and lemon sherbet. The intensity of fruit on the palate is outstanding and the length is incredible. The finish is pure lime juice, with the residual sugar playing the perfect foil to the acidity. Give it time. A joy to drink!

Houghton – White Classic – 2004 (17.8). Lemony fruit dominates the nose. The aromas are complex, with a touch of match strike and flint (I actually thought there were some barrel ferment characters). The palate manages to remain balanced and textured with quite an elegant finish. The age was indicated by some honey and toastiness to close. Definitely worth a try.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Bimbimbi – 2010 (17.5). Intense precise nose, with floral fruit notes. Musk and a touch of lime. Piercing fruit on the palate, but without the ultimate depth of the Grossett. Extremely long and fine, the sugar balances the acid well. Lime fruit to close. Not mainstream.

Momo – Pinot Gris (17.4). Floral and sherbet-like on the nose. There is also a touch of apricot nectar on a ripe nose. Mouth-filling and textured, this has excellent intensity and quality fruit. The length is a highlight as are the stone fruit characters. Fantastic texture and aromatics.

Moondah Brook – Verdelho – 2009 (17). Fresh and zesty nose. Bright tropical fruit on the palate, with a touch of grassiness. The line and length are both very good and the crisp acid makes for very fine summer drinking.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2009 (17+). Floral notes and stone fruit on the nose with a touch of wine-making inputs. The palate has marmalade and a touch of viscosity. Peachy fruit and finely textured oak on the close. Two days later, this was a joy to drink!

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2010 (17). Perfumed and floral, this is quite pristine and fresh. There is really juicy fruit with some tropical notes developing on the finish. Reasonable length and a touch of residual sugar make for an excellent summer drink. (This got better with a day in the bottle).

Wild Rock – Pinot Gris – Sur Lie – 2009 (16.8). Floral and a touch oily on the nose. The palate is rich, round and textured. There is a touch of phenolics on the finish that adds complexity. Good length, but not particularly intense fruit.

Griffith Park – Brut – NV (16.7). Sweet ripe fruit on the nose with a hint of yeasty notes. Clean and fresh, the palate has an appropriate level of sugar sweetness to fill out the mid-palate. A persistent finish that is round and generous makes this a perfect summer quaff. Good value.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Nine Vines – 2010 (16.4). Quite lifted and aromatic. There is a touch of apricot kernel and almond. The palate is oily, and the phenolics add grip to the finish. Serve cold.

Alkoomi – Riesling – Late Harvest – 2010 (16.8). Germanic in the way the complex citrus notes have a core of minerals running through the nose. Sweeter than the first, this is rich, viscous and balanced with a touch of talc on the close. There is not quite enough acid to balance the sweetness, and I would like a touch more fruit intensity.

New Release Mixed Whites

During the year we receive dozens of wines from each of the mainstream varieties. This makes it easy to put together a line up of 15 – 20 wines made from a single grape or in a similar style. We also receive a wide variety of wines that are not mainstream in Australia. Today’s tasting provided an opportunity to look through a range of wines made from less common grapes.

The wines from Millbrook really caught my attention. Along with Yalumba, Millbrook is producing some of the best examples of a grape that was made famous in the northern Rhone Valley. Small amounts of viognier have been grown alongside the shiraz in Cote Rotie. Often this would be picked and fermented with the shiraz. This has been embraced by the Australian wine industry and there are now hundreds of shiraz/viognier blends on the market.

If you would like to try a viognier from the Rhone, look for wines labelled Condrieau. These can be powerful wines and this was certainly reflected in the wines from Millbrook.

Finally, a word on the savagnin from Banrock Station. This is the first wine the panel has come across made from this obscure French white grape. This grape has an interesting story. The vines come from the CSIRO, but were sold as albarino (Spanish Grape). In the last few years there have been quite a few albarinos made and sold in Australia from these vines. DNA testing showed that the vines were actually savagnin.

Whilst there has been much debate in the industry as to how to manage the situation, Max Allen (Weekend Australian Magazine) quite rightly points out that the wines must be labelled as savignin, and we should embrace the floral/savoury characteristics that these wines are capable of producing.

Reviewed

Millbrook – Viognier – 2008 (18). Richer colour. Some apricot and musk on the nose, with complex lees and barrel ferment characters. The palate is powerful, complex, honeyed and with apricot stone fruit. The mouth-feel is viscous and long and the finish has dried apricots and bitter almond to close. Good value at $20 and an interesting alternative to a NZ sauvignon blanc

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2008 (17.8+). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose with some apricot and white fleshed peach and orange peel. Long and viscous on the palate but not as forward as the Perth Hills Wine. Some grippy, nutty characters to close with subtle bitter almond adding freshness. A very classy wine. Will evolve over 2-3 years and is a wine that everyone should try.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Reserve – 2006 (17.4). Oak characters to open on the nose with grassy fruit. The palate initially shows the effect of the oak treatment, followed by lemony fruit. The fruit really builds intensity and the finish is long, fine, restrained and quite lovely. Needs another year to integrate. Acidity keeps things fresh. Worth a try as an interesting alternative to a chardonnay.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2008 (16.8). Quite simple to start with some caramel notes on the nose. The palate has lemon with a really creamy texture. The finish is not as long as some, but a credible effort (I do not really understand semillon that well).

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2008 (16.6). Unusual “cat’s pee” aroma. Grassy with quite green fruit characters. The palate is bright, lean, long and shows barrel ferment characters. Refreshing, but may need a few years to settle. At 11% alcohol this must have been picked quite early (as is the case with many Hunter Valley semillons).

Banrock Station – Savagnin – Mediterranean Collection – 2009 (16.5). Lime juice, almost riesling – like. Lime cordial on the palate and very viscous mouth – feel. Well made and interesting. Try with Chinese food.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2009 (16.5). A touch more forward than the 2008, this has lovely fruit. The palate is more viscous and has good acid. Lacks intensity on the finish though.

Optimiste – Pinot Gris – 2009 (16.5). Racy and steely nose showing lemon and a hint of brulee. This is quite oily/viscous in the mouth, with a powerful finish showing some barrel ferment characters. Not typical but satisfying.

Drakesbrook – Viognier – 2009 (16.4). Light and fresh, but not complex. Has hints of lifted fruit. The palate is clean, fresh and vibrant, but in a simple un-oaked style. Good quaffing.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2008 (16). Clean and fresh with a touch of passionfruit. The palate is bright, zesty, and crisp. Finishes with fresh acid. Pleasant drinking and has some character.

New Release Whites

21 January 2010

The change to screw cap closures on wines has been something that I have publicly embraced as a great compromise for wine lovers. Being free of all of the imperfections of cork is what it is all about. Whilst the screw cap is inert and reliable, it is not fool-proof. One important difference that I have noted is that wines stay fresher for longer. This impacts on both wines that you buy to age and wines that are best drunk young.

With wines designed for early consumption, like most of the wines in this tasting, the increased freshness has had another consequence that we need to bear in mind. By being slower to develop, they appear to take a little longer in bottle to show there best.

Years ago, I would not dream of keeping a sauvignon blanc for more than a year, but with many of the wines in this tasting, they were actually a little closed and tight. Several looked even better the next day with a bit of airing. I am not suggesting that you start ageing these styles, but it may be worth giving them a bit of air if you find that they do not meet your expectations. Some of the lightly oaked styles can easily take 2-3 years in the cellar.

So to the wines. Once again, the 2009 Clairault sauvignon blanc showed well. This is a lovely drink. Forester also seem to be kicking some goals with their sauvignon. I continue to be impressed with the wines from Deviation Road from the Adelaide hills. I must try and visit them at some stage this year.

This was meant to be a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc tasting, but unfortunately a few pinot gris/grigio wine got mixed up.

Tasted

Deviation Road – Pinot Gris – 2009 (17.5+). Clean and fresh smelling. There is sherbet, musk, pineapple and a touch of cinnamon. Evolves on the palate and has excellent mouth feel and texture. Persistent and balanced. Good acidity to close. (I had a glass with salmon the next night and it was excellent.)

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! More overt and obvious than some, there is pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passionfruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment but the fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months. There might be a touch of residual sugar, but it is all the better for it.

Forester – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Some zesty fruit on this. Ripe, concentrated passionfruit and tropical fruit with pineapple acid. Some winemaker inputs. Textured palate with good mouth feel. Lemony acid to close. Quite a big wine.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – 2009 (17). Pungent sauvignon characters with lantana and a touch of vanilla. Crème brulle on the creamy palate. Very good fruit and wine making. Fine close.

Hamlin Bay – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Lifted, grassy fruit with some passionfruit and musk. The palate is long, fresh and surprisingly viscous. Passionfruit to close. The finish is closed but well balanced.

Wine By Brad – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.8). Focused and precise nose. Quite fragrant, complex and balanced,with fresh acidity to keep the finish alive. Good summer drinking

Millbrook – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – Barking Owl – 2009 (16.6). Creamy nose, with some interesting fruit. Sweet fruit but without great excitement. Good current drinking.

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (16.5+). A different style to the WA and NZ wines. Starts off zesty and tight. The palate is powerful, long, focused but closed. Will do better with 6 months in the bottle.

Forester – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). This is closed and tight. This is quite a serious wine with good viscosity/mouth-feel and some worked wine making inputs. Will be better in a few months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). Sweet and ripe fruit on the nose, this is lacking some definition at present. A crowd pleasing style that builds intensity. Will be better in a few months.

Preveli – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5). More of the grassy characters here. Some musk and sherbet too. The palate is racy, but the acid is a little firm now.

Sidewood Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.4). A complex and funky wine with caramel on the close. Unusual.

Arlewood – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2006 (16). Barrel ferment and lees characters. Some grassy characters. This smells expensive. Obvious oak characters dominate the palate. More like an oaked semillon. Will the fruit break free?

Banrock Station – Pinot Grigio – 2009 (16). Riper nose with some candy. Simple but easy drinking. Caramel to close.

Clairault – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16). Good drinking.

Two Tracks – Pinot Gris – 2008 (16). Musk and sherbet. The palate is complex and worked. Whilst rich and generous, the finish is less precise than some.