Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Vasse Felix

Reviewed: 14th May 2014

Situated in the Willyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, Vasse Felix can lay claim to being the oldest producer of wines in this prestigious region. Established in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, the first release was the 1972 vintage.

Since then, the winery has gone from strength to strength as the range has been refined and stratified. The focus is now on three distinct pillars, Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, Chardonnay and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends. A consistent approach to stratification is also being gradually adopted.

At the top of the quality tree is the Heytesbury, (gold peregrine on the label). Currently, this is limited to the Cabernet and the Chardonnay. That said, Virginia Willcock and the team are working towards a Heytesbury SSB. A small batch was released from the 2011 vintage and the wine produced in 2013 is excellent. Time will tell if this will end up under the Heytesbury label.

Sitting just below this, from a quality perspective, is the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. These are set to be joined by a chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. (These wines have the burgundy coloured peregrine on the label and a burgundy capsule). The Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and “standard” Chardonnay sit below this. These wines will be re-labelled Filius from the next vintage to avoid confusion.

Finally, there is the Classic range with a Dry White and a Dry Red.

I rate Vasse Felix in the top five wineries in the region. Their wines are consistently outstanding. If you ask nicely, they may even give you a 20% discount for dozen lots at the cellar door, which makes the wines extraordinary value.

A special thanks must go to Francine and the team at Vasse Felix for making our visit so enjoyable.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013. Fragrant and complex with lovely lemon and lanolin notes. The grassy notes come out with air. Whilst fresh and lively, there is an undertone of complexity that comes from the 19% of fruit that was fermented in new oak. A small portion was also fermented on skins which helps to add depth to the palate.

Vasse Felix – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – “White Cap” – 2012. Made in a similar way to white Bordeaux: All fruit was fermented/aged in new oak for nine months with a further six months in older oak. 60% Semillon, a portion of the SB was fermented on skins. This is a powerful wine that is creamy and textured, with lemon curd, lanolin, minerals and a touch of struck match/flintiness. That said, this is a fine wine that will take some years in the bottle. Destined to become Heytesbury?

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2012. A very fine and delicate style that has lovely, peach-like stone fruit aromas. The palate is quite linear at present, reflecting the youthful nature of this wine. The limey acid provides excellent drive on the finish. Matured in a mix of new, one and two year old oak, though this is just a whisper on the finish. Really needs a year or two to fill out and open up. (Will be labelled Filius from 2013).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Burgundy Capsule – 2013. Very tight and restrained, with bright fruit and refreshing acidity. The palate is creamy, though the fruit is shy at present. The finish is near seamless, with supple oak adding depth and mouth-feel. Needs a few years, but will be worth the wait. Soon to be released, this is destined to be the first “burgundy capsuled” chardonnay.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2012. Very powerful nose blending stone fruit, pineapple and complex winemaker’s inputs (struck match minerality and creamy barrel ferment and lees aromas). The powerful fruit continues on a palate that is complex, balanced and very long. Seamless palate transition, with the texture really building on the close. A superb effort that retains freshness and poise. Lovely now, but better in a few years.

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2012. Always a delight to drink as this wine balances approachable fruit characters with a finish that is supple, textural and long. Destined to be the last semillon made by Vasse Felix as the fruit used in this wine will be used in the SSB going forward.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011. An excellent expression of this style, showing perfumed fruit with hints of violet and summer berries. The palate adds hints of leather, spice and earthy notes to the red fruits, with herbal notes and fine, supple tannins to close. Like many wines made from this blend in the region, this is made in a more approachable style. (Will be labelled Filius in future years).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011. Classic minty, blackcurrant fruit on the nose over spice and cedary oak. The palate is silky and very long, though this needs years to reach its peak. A very fine wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2011. The fruit and winemaking here is nothing short of spectacular. The nose is filled with fragrant fruit over supple savoury/spicy notes. This is a very complex wine. The palate is breathtaking, displaying fruit that is very powerful, yet refined and very elegant. The chewy, structural notes build on a finish that is silky, balanced and very long. An iron fist in a velvet glove. A brilliant wine that will comfortably take 20 years in the cellar.

 

New Release Reds – May 2014

Reviewed: 8th May 2014

There was an eclectic selection of pinot and shiraz here from a variety of countries.

The reviewed wines stood out for their balance, providing short term drinking pleasure, but also being capable of rewarding cellaring.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2011 (18). A lovely wine that balances perfectly ripe, though cooler region, fruit with supple winemaking. Hints of spice and cedar add complexity, but do not detract from the fruit. The finish is silky and very fine, with superb length and mouth-feel. Very well made.

Saltram – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Metala – 2012 (18). This is a really smart wine that combines quality fruit and slick winemaking. Lovely depth and intensity to the fruit with mint, eucalyptus and blackberry from the cabernet sitting over the ripe, plum-like shiraz. Cedary oak complements nicely. The finish is firm, suggesting that 5 – 10 years in the cellar will be rewarded.

Singlefile – Pinot Noir – 2013 (17.5 – 18). Quite firm, but with delicious red fruits. Cherry and supple spice to the fore on the palate. Long and balanced, this just needs a year or two for the grippy finish to settle and to really hit its straps. ($33).

Soumah – Shiraz – 2012 (17.8). Another cracking wine from the 2012 vintage in Victoria. The vibrant, ripe fruit leaps out of the glass, with cedar and spice to follow. The palate is fragrant, vibrant and supple with white pepper highlights. The fine tannins, whilst allowing the fruit to speak, build on the finish. An intense, youthful wine that should age well. (RRP $33).

Arivina Estate – Shiraz – 2012 (17.7). Dense, though not thick, chocolaty fruit here with savoury highlights. This is a rich, textured wine that has been well put together. The balance is maintained via fine tannins and supple oak, and there is excellent length. Will have broad appeal as it straddles the line between warm and cool climate fruit.

Great Southern – New Release Wines – April 2014

Reviewed: 29th April 2014

The Great Southern region of Western Australia comprises a number of subregions, including Mt Barker, Denmark and Frankland River. The region is rightly famous for its rieslings, but also produces exceptional wines from a number of other varieties. Some of the state’s most prominent producers make their top cabernet based wines from the region including Houghton (Jack Mann) and Howard Park (Abercrombie).

This tasting aptly demonstrated the variety of styles that are produce within the region.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2013 (18). Very supple nose that combines gentle, ripe fruit with subtle oak and lees/barrel ferment characters. There is lovely minerality, which aids depth and complexity. There is stone fruit and citrus characters on the palate with just a hint of tropical fruit (pineapple and melon). The balance and finesse makes this wine a standout. A delicious, beautifully worked chardonnay from the Singlefile vineyard. (RRP $50).

Ferngrove – Riesling – Cossack – 2013 (17.5 – 18+). Lovely lime curd and lemon zest fruit here. This is a powerful wine, with taut minerality cutting through the fresh lemon and lime fruit on the palate. Excellent length and persistence, with fresh, brisk acidity that adds drive. Bone dry, this is a lively riesling that will age well. (RRP $23).

Xabregas – Shiraz – 2011 (17.7). Closed and shy, though the fruit here is of high quality. Coffee, mocha, chocolate, spice and cedar evolve on the palate. Very long with white pepper over dark plum and blackberry. There is latent power here and the texture builds, though time is needed to let it evolve. Deft use of oak adds to the package.

Singlefile – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – Stoney Crossing Vineyard – 2013 (17.5+). A very complex nose that has lovely worked characters. The grassy fruit is overlaid with minerals, flint, struck match and lemony oak. Very youthful, though very long, this would be best with another year or two in bottle. (RRP $30).

Cotes Du Rhone – New Release

Reviewed: 11th December 2013

Cotes Du Rhone to me is synonymous with spicy grenache-based red wines that offer immediate drinking pleasure and, in some cases, are also capable of short-term cellaring.

The region is quite diverse, with wines from the better sites able to carry the village appellation as part of the name.

In general, I would recommend consuming these wines young, so as to enjoy the fresh/vibrant fruit and spicy overtones.

Many of the better wines for this tasting are imported by Lamont’s in Cottesloe.  They appear to offer excellent value at +/- $20 and are worth seeking out.

La Cabotte – Massif d’Uchaux – Cotes Du Rhone Villages – 2011 (17.8).  Wow, this could easily be from the McLaren Vale.  Gorgeous, fleshy, ripe fruit that is dense and vibrant.  This follows on to the palate, where it is only on the finish that the wine gives away its Rhone heritage, with pepper and spicy notes.  Souring tannins add life to the vibrant fruit, making this my pick for the tasting.

Pas Des Roches – Grenache – Cotes Du Rhone – Old Vine – 2012 (17.5).  An impressive wine that is in a more traditional style, with savoury characters melding well with the mid-weight fruit.  Ripe, precise and focused, the palate has decent depth and good mouth-feel.  Juicy, grenache-like fruit carries the fine tannins well on the finish.  Was even better after being open for a couple of days.

Domaine Magellan – Shiraz/Grenache/Carignan – L’Herault – Vin de Pays – 2010 (17-17.5).  Significantly more depth and power here.  A savoury, spicy wine that has serious fruit and decent texture.  A serious effort, with tannins that cut through the fruit richness on the finish, conferring drive to the palate.  Could even take some bottle age.

Able’s  Tempest – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – 2010 (17).  Light and fresh though initially, this appears a touch straightforward.  In the glass this showed apple blossom and hints of citrus.  The palate is nicely textured, clean, fresh and refreshing.  The dosage has been very well handled.  At around $30, this is not exactly cheap, but I have seen it advertised for under $20 and, at this price, it will make an excellent aperitif this festive season.

La Cabotte – Cotes Du Rhone – Colline – 2011 (17).  Attractive nose combining plump, ripe fruit and sweet vanilla highlights.  Spicy/earthy notes add complexity.  Only medium-bodied, with little in the way of oak on the palate, this is supple, savoury and long.  Quite a delicious red that will take food well.  Do not be afraid to give this time in a decanter prior to drinking.

 

Guigal – Cotes Du Rhone – 2010 (16.6).  Clean/fresh nose that has attractive fruit and subtle spicy notes.  The palate is light and fresh, with souring acidity adding drive.  A fruit-driven, easy-drinking style without strong characters.  With air, the fleshy fruit opens up and is complemented by black pepper and spice.

Domaine La Vitalis – Cotes Du Rhone – Villages – Cairanne – 2011 (17).  Quite closed on the nose, but the palate is a riot of ripe fruit and spice.  Medium bodied, but with delicious pepper and spice over juicy plum.  Perhaps a bit more new-world in its approach, but this will appeal to those who like a good value, fleshy red.

Chalkboard – Cotes Du Rhone – 2012 (16.5).  Pretty, floral, red fruits and supple white pepper on both the nose and the palate.  There are also spicy notes and a hint of celery.  Supple and textured, the spicy fruit is the predominant character on the finish, though the fine tannins build on the close.  A versatile wine that is excellent value at around $13 from Vinatge Cellars.

 

 

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 8th November 2013

This was a fascinating tasting that highlighted the quality and diversity of chardonnays being made in Australia.  From the taut austerity of the Devils Lair, the balance of the Frankland Estate, to the richness and depth of the Singlefile, they are all quality wines.

Interestingly, there were a couple of wines from 2013 in the tasting.  These have not been reviewed, as they were just too young to properly assess them at this point.

Reviewed.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – 2012 (18).  A very fine wine made in a lighter style.  The fruit has been picked early to retain freshness and vitality, though this comes at the cost of immediate drinkability.  There is no denying the quality of the  fruit, and this has been very well handled.  The key feature here is the excellent length and persistence.  This wine took four days to really open up and shine, so cellaring is recommended.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2012 (18).  Wow, superb nose that has powerful fruit combined with complex winemaker’s inputs that adds a struck match character to the minerals and quality oak.  The palate is rich, dense and very long.  The oak sits well with the fruit, though a year or two should see this settle back a little and allow the fruit to really shine.  The finish is very long and complex, with curry leaf and spice to close.  Expensively made.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2012 (17.9).  This wine takes the middle ground between the Devils Lair and Singlefile.  The fruit is attractive and well matched to the subtle winemaking notes.  Aroma wise, there is lemon, stonefruit, melon and a hint of tropical fruit.  The palate is supple, creamy and quite savoury.  The finish is very balanced and near seamless, though the acid cuts a swath through the creamy texture.  A smart wine that will be even better in 2 – 3 years.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – DJL – 2012 (17.4).  Fresh, vibrant and very smart.  A modern style that has a portion of earlier picked fruit to retain freshness.  Good quality fruit is matched by lovely, citrus-like acidity, with the oak adding texture to the palate.  Well made.

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – G1-10 – 2012 (17.5).  Lovely wine this, in a subtly worked style.  There is excellent fruit and winemaking and quite a seamless finish.  The oak sits nicely with the fruit and adds texturally.  Good mouth-feel and length to close.

 

S.C. Pannell – Current Release

Reviewed:  28th September 2013

When Bill Pannell first established Moss Wood in the early 1970’s I am sure that not even he could predict the impact his family would have on the Australian wine industry.  After entrenching Moss Wood’s reputation, Bill went on to establish Picardy winery in Pemberton where he and his son Dan are producing world class wines.

Whilst Bill and Dan are household names in Western Australia, the fortunes of another Pannell winemaker are somewhat overlooked.  Steve Pannell (Bill’s son) was instrumental in producing some of the great wines of Hardy’s, where he was chief winemaker from 1999 – 2003.

S.C. Pannell was established in 2004 and produces an array of both Red and White wines.  These range in style from softer, more approachable (and affordable) wines to the serious and age-worthy.  Time prevented me from reviewing their white wines, so these will have to wait for another day and, perhaps, a trip to McLaren Vale.

The current release wines served to underscore the quality of the operation, with the 2011 reds demonstrating just how good wines from this vintage can be.

NB:  This was not a blind tasting.  My points are best used as a guide only.

Reviewed:

S.C. Pannell – Grenache Blend – Tinto – 2011 (16.8).  This has a lovely, bright red colour that seems the perfect match to the floral fruit notes on the nose.  There is bright fruit on a palate that has cherry and hints of tar and spice.  Simple, easy to drink and food friendly.

S.C. Pannell – Tempranilo\Touriga – 2012 (17.3).  I like this a lot!  There is plenty of dense, ripe fruit that is succulent and deliciously juicy.  Long and sappy acid on the finish adds life.  Really good wine that would be a great mid-week wine served with a bowl of pasta.

S.C. Pannell – Shiraz – Adelaide Hills – Syrah – 2012 (17.7).  Spectacular red/purple colour.  Dense, tannic, ripe, chewy, long, lean, angular.  A wine of real potential, with lovely peppery fruit to close.  Fine, silky tannins are firm and plentiful.  A textural treat.

S.C. Pannell – Grenache/Shiraz – 2010 (17.7).  Gorgeous, fragrant and lifted red berry fruit on the nose, courtesy of the grenache.  The palate is flooded with redcurrant and spice, with silky, texturing oak and tannins.  Long and savoury, this will be best in 5 – 10 years, once it has had time to open up and evolve.

S.C. Pannell – Nebbiolo – 2008 (18).  The colour alone stands this apart from the rest of the range, tending to rusty orange at the rim.  A superb rendition of nebbiolo that is true to its Italian heritage, with hints of floral fruit and tar-like characters building on the finish.

S.C. Pannell – Grenache – 2011 (18).  The colour is fantastic.  There is ripe, perfumed fruit, though this is subdued and cloaked in structure.  The palate is powerful, ripe, and precise.  The tannins are silky and fine, while the oak is there primarily for texture.  Excellent length and mouth-feel.  This is a superb effort.

S.C. Pannell – Shiraz – 2011 (18.5).  Remarkably restrained and tight.  There is a density to the fruit on the nose, with the McLaren Vale fruit characters developing in the glass with air.  The palate is restrained and near seamless, with great precision and focus.  Again, the latent power starts to express itself as the wine opens in the glass and on the palate.  Near seamless, this is a wine that can be consumed now or any time to 2030.

 

Scorpo – Current Release

Reviewed:  22nd September 2013

Situated in the Mornington Peninsula, Scorpo wines has quietly established a reputation for producing some of the region’s finest, though understated, wines from pinot noir, chardonnay and shiraz.  Winemaking is headed up by Sandro Mosele, whom, along with the Scorpo family, endeavours to produce wines that speak of the region, with as little intervention as possible in the winery.

This tasting allowed me to look through the current range and the wines were right on form.  That the estate wines (chardonnay, shiraz and pinot noir) were on form is no surprise, given the reputation that these wines command on the east coast.  It was the pinot gris and norien pinot noir that were the biggest surprise.

The pinot gris is delicious, with crunchy pear and creamy, barrel ferment characters, while the pinot noir is excellent current drinking.

The wines from Scorpo tend to slip under the radar, but the quality makes finding them worth the effort.

NB:  This was not a blind tasting.  My points are best used as a guide only.

Reviewed

Scorpo – Pinot Gris – 2012 (17.5).  The nose opens with creamy barrel-ferment notes.  The lifted fruit is reminiscent of pear skin, with a lovely, musk-like edge.  On the palate, the fruit is ripe and creamy, with an almost crunchy pear texture on the finish.  This wine is fermented in older oak and sees batonage/lees stirring and wild yeast fermentation.  Delicious.

Scorpo – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.8).  Closed and creamy on the nose, but the palate is full of life and vigour.  Bright acidity, supple oak, creamy texture and a struck match minerality on the finish.  Tight and modern, the acidity is very refreshing.

Scorpo – Pinot Noir – Norien – 2012 (17.7).  Beautiful nose here, showing bright, fresh cherry fruit and lovely spice.  Typical, approachable and succulent.  Not overly complex, but has excellent length and tannin integration.  Delicious.

Scorpo – Pinot Noir – Estate – Single Vineyard – 2011 (18).  Closed and restrained, yet supple and inviting.  Picked in early April (one month later than normal) with great care taken in the vineyard to ensure that the fruit coming off was top notch.  Initially, this appears tight and grippy, though it opens nicely with air.  Very long and refined, this is a delight to drink now, but will be even better in 5 years.  A great result.

Scorpo – Shiraz – 2008 – (18).  Some earthy, dusty notes to start, but there is a core of ripe red fruits over supple white pepper and silky tannins.  All fruit was de-stemmed and cold soaked prior to fermentation.  A superb wine that is restrained and very fine, yet the power starts to build on the very long finish.  Hard to resist.

Teusner – New Release

Mick And Kym

Reviewed: 22nd September 2013

I caught up briefly with winemaker Kim Teusner (pictured right) and viticulturalist Michael Page (left) to look through their range of wines to coincide with the release of the 2012 reds.

Teusner is a relatively new label, having released its first vintage of Joshua in 2002.  Since then, the team has been able to secure access to several old vineyards, and are producing high quality wines in a variety of styles and price points.

For me, the highlight of the tasting was The Family shiraz.  The fruit for this came from a single vineyard in the Stonewell sub-region of the Barossa and is chock full of Barossa goodness.  Whist this only has limited availability, it is worth tracking down as it really delivers on the price/quality scale.

 

Reviewed:

Teusner – Riesling – 2012 (17.5).  Typical Eden Valley style that is closed and restrained, with an oily minerality that adds interest.  The palate has lemony fruit and is well balanced.  While quite lean now, this has good mouth-feel and will fill out with a few years in the bottle.

Teusner – Sauvignon Blanc – Woodside – 2013 (17).  Lifted sherbet and lemon aromas with a nice zesty lift.  A balanced wine that avoids the pungency that some cool climate versions can get, yet retains a zesty freshness that defines the style.

Teusner – Shiraz – The Riebke – 2012 (17 – 17.5).  Delicious, ripe, red fruits here.  The palate is juicy, succulent and more-ish.  There is little in the way of oak on show, which allows the cherry, plum and redcurrant fruit to shine.  Now – 5 years.

Teusner – Shiraz – The Family – 2012 (18).  Compared to the Riebke, this has more depth, intensity and power, with cedary oak in the background.  The palate is structured, with some grip to close, courtesy of the oak and fruit tannins.  There is real depth, intensity and length to the superb fruit.  At $25, this is a bargain!

Teusner – GSM – Avatar – 2012. (N/A).

Teusner – Grenache/Mouvedre/Shiraz – Joshua – 2012 (18).  Really fragrant and spicy on the nose (fennel and thyme), while the palate is silky and supple.  This is deceptive as, whilst it is a lovely drink now, it has the power and structure to build and age with time.  The fragrant grenache fruit is the main feature, while the mouvedre and shiraz add structure and a peppery lift.

Teusner – Shiraz – Righteous FG – 2010 (18.5+).  Incredibly concentrated and essence-like.  The nose is an amalgam of superbly dense fruit and quality oak.  Despite being amazingly concentrated, the palate is supple and silky, with a degree of elegance on the finish.  The tannins are very fine and the length prodigious.  An amazing wine that is full of latent power.  Will live long!

St Mary’s Winery – 2012 Vintage

Reviewed: 30th July 2013

There has been a lot of talk of late about the respective quality of the last few vintages in South Australia.  Despite the predictions of dire effects on the wines from the lesser years, I have seen a number of excellent wines from 2011, whilst the 2008 Grange (considered to be an atypically hot year) was recently awarded 100 points by Wine Spectator.

When it comes to the current release wines from St Mary’s, they all come from the 2012 vintage.  This vintage has been uniformly praised by winemakers and critics as being excellent in all major South Australian regions and is reflected in the quality of this year’s release.

St Mary’s is based in Penola in the Coonawarra region and they have quite a prestigious address (V&A Lane).  Interestingly, the Mulligans chose to label their wines as Limestone Coast, rather than Coonawarra.

A fascinating component of this tasting was looking at all the Bordeaux varietals vinified separately.  It gave me an insight into the various characteristics that the individual components can contribute to a blend.  Actually, this may make for an excellent dinner party activity where guests could be given the challenge of making the best blend!

For me, the highlight was the Pinot Noir.  I do not know of many pinots coming from the Limestone Coast, but this is an excellent effort that made the panel sit up and take note.

Reviewed

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.5).  Excellent clarity in the glass.  The nose opens with pretty red fruits that are supple and vibrant.  This is an attractive, succulent wine of some charm.  The finish is full of minerals and the texture is spot-on.  The fruit characters include cherry, strawberry, anise and a hint of white pepper.  Varietally correct and very well made.

St Mary’s – Merlot – 2012 (17).  Good quality fruit here that has been sympathetically made.  Good mouth-feel and texture to a wine that can be drunk now, or in five years.

St Mary’s – Petit Verdot – 2012 (17).  This is quite a dense wine that is packed with essence-like fruit and prodigious tannins.  This is a big, powerful wine that combines intense fruit with structure and density.  If you are going to drink this now, it needs a big steak to balance the acidity.  Given time though, this will soften and integrate into a classy wine.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Franc – 2012 (16).  Compared to the fleshy fruit that the merlot possesses, this is a “bony” wine that is angular and lean.  With this wine, you can really see the attributes that cabernet franc can bring to a blend, but at the moment, the acidity dominates the leaner, red fruit characters.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – House Block – 2012 (17.5+).  Balance is the key here.  This has bright red and black fruit characters set against a background of cedar, spice, aniseed and clove.  Long and mouth-watering, the bright acidity adds to the appeal.  Whilst it is not the finest wine here, it is one that has the most immediate appeal.  This wine would make a great match with food now, or will evolve and build for many years.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – 2012 (17.5).  Really deep smelling, with sour plum, spice and cedary notes.  This is well made, and the fruit is of good quality, though it needs a few years to soften and really come together.  The peppery fruit on the close rounds out a smart wine!

Western Australia’s Best Cabernet Region?

Reviewed: 20th July 2012

Everyone knows that Margaret River makes Western Australia’s (and possibly Australia’s) best cabernet based wines.  Right?  They certainly make the most high quality cabernets of any region in Australia.  The region also produces the highest number of quality wines as a percentage of the total volume produced.

But what about the Great Southern region centred around Frankland River?  Cabernet, after all, is not the main focus here.  The focus in the region is primarily on riesling and shiraz.  Cabernet plays a much smaller role in the region’s output.

The question of where the best WA cabernets come from was brought into sharp focus with the current tasting, courtesy of the new release wines of Larry Cherubino.  Here is a producer that has access to some of the best fruit in the state.  Submitted for the tasting were both the Margaret River and Frankland River cabernets under the Cherubino label as well as Frankland River cabernets under the Yard and Ad Hoc labels.

The Frankland River Cherubino was the star of the tasting and, at $110/bottle, was also significantly more expensive than the Margaret River version of the same wine.  In fact, when compared to the Margaret River wine, The Yard and Ad Hoc (Frankland) wines from the same producer represents excellent value for the quality on offer.

So Cherubino’s best (and most expensive) cabernet comes from Frankland River, but what about other producers?  Well, Houghton produces a number of very high quality wines from Margaret River, but their most expensive wine is the Jack Mann from Frankland River.  Separately, in a recent tasting of some of Margaret River’s finest cabernets, it was the 2010 Abercrombie from Howard Park (18.5 – 19pts) that stole the show.  The only problem was that this wine is also from Frankland!

So, in summary, three of Western Australia’s finest cabernet producers each source the fruit for their top wines from Frankland River and, in the case of Howard Park, this is my equal highest pointed cabernet of the year.

So to the rest of the tasting….

The wines from Xanadu are in top form and their current release cabernets are outstanding.  The standard release 2010 cabernet is an absolute steal at around $35, whilst their special release wines are stylish and very age-worthy.

This was a very high quality tasting with a number of excellent wines.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2011 (18.5).  An excellent wine that has a Jeckle and Hyde character.  Initially, this is very structured, with lean, precise fruit and a very long and drying finish.  This really builds in the glass to show full, ripe and dense fruit of the highest quality.  Flavour characters include mint, eucalypt and a touch of menthol.  An excellent, no-compromise wine that demands time in the cellar (or at least an hour or two in the decanter) if you are going to drink it now.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18/18.5+).  Very complex nose that has savoury characters balanced by fresh fruit aromas.  Think cedar, brambly blackcurrant, licorice, pepper and black fruits with earthy, forest floor highlights.  The palate is taut and austere, the acid, tannins and quality oak subduing the fruit.  Opens to show really dense, bright fruit with superb mouth-feel and structure. This wine is a star and is destined for a very long future.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stephens Road – 2010 (18.3).  Precise nose. Precise palate.  This is a superb wine, where the quality fruit has been carefully crafted in the winery.  Restrained mint and eucalyptus are present on both the nose and palate.  The oak is very fine and silky, though in combination with the tannins, serves to shut down the fruit.  Elegant and age-worthy.  (Made in tiny quantities).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2011 (18+).  Touch of sweet and sour here.  This is a much bigger, more textured wine than some here, with dense, chocolaty fruit.  Very long and persistent, with a somewhat chewy finish, though the balance is spot-on.  This demands time, or a big steak now.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (18).  Lovely minty cabernet fruit to open on the nose, with slightly dusty, cedary oak and a touch of herbs.  The palate has bright redcurrant, cedar and spice.  The oak is well married to the high quality fruit and the tannins, whilst firm, are not aggressive.  Quite a pretty wine now, but the best is yet to come, as the texture and mouth-feel build and replace the overt fruit characters.  Although it lacks a bit of joy now, give it time to open and I am sure the marks will get even higher.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (18).  Whilst there is no doubting the quality of fruit that has gone into this wine, it is a touch disjointed at present, with the fruit at odds with the oak and tannins now.  Chewy, textured and dense, this is a powerful wine.  Like a jigsaw, the pieces will come together over time allowing the full picture to be seen.

Ad Hoc – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Avant Gardening – 2012 (17.9).  Smart wine here.  This has lean fruit, courtesy of the cooler region, though the fruit is fully ripe.  The palate is powerful, taut and full of nervous energy.  The finish is more about the structure, as the oak and fruit tannins shut down the fruit characters.  Whilst this is quite user friendly, I would still recommend decanting now to drink with a steak, or give it a few years to hit its straps.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8).  Cedar and spice on the nose, with a core of ripe fruit and regional mintiness.  The palate is dense, thick and textured, a wine with plump, ripe fruit.  Opens with air to show lovely minty fruit, good texture and fine tannins.  The oak is present, but not overt and carries the finish well.  Quite a big wine that could be drunk now or in 10 years.

Thompson Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5-18+).  Quite subdued nose that merely hints at the potential of this wine.  The palate is drying, long, savoury, restrained, fine and elegant, with dusty tannins framing the finish.  Beneath it all is serious, opulent fruit and good line and length in the mouth.  Just needs time to show its best.

Bussell – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – JG – 2011 (17.9).  A lovely wine that has ripe cabernet fruit as the focus.  The winemaking has been very sympathetic to the high quality, refined fruit, with the oak providing a framework in which the fruit sits.  Hints of mint and eucalyptus to close on a long, lingering finish.  Real potential here.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Il Cavaliere – 2010 (17.5).   Aromas of redcurrant and cedar to open.  Thick, dense fruit up front in the mouth, but the middle palate is quite subdued at first, with the tannins really closing this down.  Genuine Bordeaux style.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – Y series – 2011 (17.3).  Blackcurrant, cedar and cool climate fruit on the nose, with redcurrant fruit to close.  This is very persistent and elegant, the precise fruit well matched to the oak.  Good length, but needs 5 years to hit its straps.  Good value.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Unison – 2011 (17).  A solid wine that has lovely, cool climate, cabernet characters.  Mint, eucalypt and herbal notes to the fore on the nose, and these flow through to the palate.  The oak sits well with the ripe fruit and there is enough structure to take some aging.