Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Sparkling Wine – New Release

Reviewed: 16 February 2013

My perceptions were really challenged during this tasting by the wines from Yellowglen.

  • Firstly, the quality and style of the new releases from Yellowglen are completely different to the cheap wines in the range and are nothing short of stunning!
  • Secondly, whilst there has been a wholesale move to Tasmania as a source of fruit for sparkling wines, this demonstrates just how good the Adelaide Hills wines can be.
  • Finally, as a die-hard fan of Champagne, here is an Australian sparkling wine that I really want to drink.

The 2002 XV is a wine that has changed my perceptions of Australian sparking wine.

At the other end of the spectrum, there are a couple of cheap and cheery wines that represent excellent value for uncomplicated drinking.

Reviewed

Yellowglen – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Exceptional Vintage – XV – 2002 (18+). Very fine mousse and developed straw colour. There is a creamy, powerful nose with plenty of autolysis characters from the extended lees contact. This wine is fine and elegant, yet complex, developed and round. With Brioche and cookie/bread dough characters,the palate is soft, round and gentle, with delicate acidity to balance the complex fruit. Could be mistaken for Champagne, this is a fine wine with a complex powerful finish. Powerful enough to take food, this is a truly amazing wine. Having spent 9 years on lees and with 8g/l of dosage, this pinot dominant blend is at the very top of Australian sparkling wine. With a RRP of $50, I intend to put some in my cellar for drinking over the next 6 months.

Yellowglen – Pinto Noir/Chardonnay – Exceptional Vintage – XV – 2004 (17.5). Remarkably fresh compared to the 2002 and a brilliant aperitif style. There is good complexity on the nose with restrained fruit characters over buttery/nutty lees characters. The palate is linear and taut, with a touch of yeast and toast to add interest. More fruit driven than the 2002, with a lovely racy edge.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Grandis – Brut Reserve – 2009 (16.6). A straightforward wine with apple like fruit and gentle creamy finish. Fills the mouth nicely and delivers plenty of joy. An easy drinking fun wine that will make many friends. (The name is a little close to that of the French wine perhaps).

Lindeman’s – Bin 25 – Brut Cuvee – NV (16.4). Vibrant mousse! This is in a different style and delivers plenty of charm. Fresh apply fruit on a vibrant palate that is full of life. A fun wine that will provide great drinking on a warm afternoon with friends. Should be about the same price as a fancy bottle of water… Bargain!!!

De Bortoli – Emeri – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – NV (16.6). This is an interesting wine. Opens with complex bready aromas. The palate has brioche and creamy satisfying mousse. Not particularly complex, but long, refined and very satisfying. The creamy finish is a highlight.

Wolf Blass – Gold Label – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay 2008 (16.5). Simple, straightforward wine that is quite long, round and satisfying. Easy to drink and well made, this should also be very affordable.v

Pinot Noir and Friends

New Release Tasting

24 November 2010

Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.

With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.

The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.

Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.

Reviewed – Friends

Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.

Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.

Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.

Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.

Reviewed – Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!

Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.

Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.

Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.

Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.

Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.

Shiraz Blends

5 December 2010

An interesting tasting, with several interesting wines. The Stirling was a highlight, but the wines from Kaleske and Sons of Eden delivered real drinking pleasure. A relatively high number of wines did not get reviewed (points less than 16).

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cabernet/Shiraz – The Stirling – 2007 (18+). Wow. Cedar and spice to the fore. There is mint, eucalypt and a rich seam of blackcurrant on the nose. The touch of peperriness attests to the shiraz component. The palate is powerful yet very refined. This is a big wine, and the fruit is overwhelmed by the structure now. There is menthol and satsuma plum on the finish. Needs 5 years but will live for 20. Different style to the Majestic.

Sons of Eden – Grenache/Shiraz/Moved – Kennedy – 2008 (17.8). Intriguing nose. This is fresh and juicy. The palate is dense and chock full of high quality, juicy fruit. There is licorice and plum, as well as some savoury notes. The oak is very much in the background and the length is impressive. The finish is very fine and silky, bordering on seamless. Great drinking over the next 5 years.

Kalleske – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Clarry’s – 2009 (17.7). More restrained, this has dense and concentrated fruit. The palate is a real step up in quality compared to some. There is ripe yet restrained plum and dark berry fruit, with a touch of earthy, forest floor characters. The finish is fresh and bright. A good each way bet.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2009 (17). Fresh and clean with mulberry and spice. There is plenty of vibrant fruit on the palate with enough acidity to make the finish refreshing. This is not so complicated, but is fleshy and enjoyable now.

Deepwoods – Rose – Harmony – 2010 (16.8). More savoury, this has obvious red berry fruit characters (raspberry jube). The palate is surprisingly delicate, dry and savoury with a tangy finish. A serious style that would carry food.

Aramis – Shiraz/Cabernet – 2008 (16.5). Softer and more subdued. There is ripe plummy fruit, but there is a lack of vibrancy. Good to drink though.

Devils Lair – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Fifth Leg – 2008 (16.4). Fresh and vibrant. There are peppery shiraz notes with plummy fruit. There is a touch of mint on a chalky finish. Easy to drink.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Butterfly Ridge – 2009 (16). This again has some heavy fruit. There are plummy notes on the nose. This is juicy, but without pretence. Easy to drink.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2009 (16). More support from other panel members. Cooler cabernet fruit to open with some grassy and herbal notes. There is a touch of sweet and sour fruit on the palate. Inoffensive and worth a look if organic is your thing.

Moondah Brook – Rose – Cabernet – 2010 (16). Vibrant colour. Fragrant and floral nose, this is very pretty. The strawberry fruit is the main feature, with a fair bit of residual sugar. Savoury notes on the finish keep it fresh.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 20 May 2012

There was an interesting cross-section of styles here, with quality wines coming from both warmer and cooler regions.

Angove has turned in another stunning value wine with their Vineyard Select shiraz. Handcrafted premium wine for less than $20!

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2009 (17.8+) A quality wine here. Surprisingly elegant and refined, with a degree of restraint. Licorice, menthol and chocolate to the fore here. The palate is very intense, textured and layered, but it is not overblown. The quality oak has been soaked up by the fruit and the length is outstanding. Make no mistake, this is a big wine that will be at its best in 10+ years. (The style did split the panel, hence no gold medal).

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17.8). A traditional Australian shiraz. Intense fruit that is somewhat subdued at present. Long, fine, chewy and textured, this has real presence in the mouth. Pepper, spice and textured oak combine with ripe fruit in a well made wine that will last for a decade or two. Another outstanding bargain at $18 or less! (Most of the panel members will be putting this into their own cellars).

The Lane – Shiraz – Reunion – 2009 (17.7+). Medium-bodied and well made, this is a smart wine. Textured, though fine, fruit and oak make for a harmonious finish. Long and fine with licorice and black pepper to close. An impressive wine that will only get better in with a few years in the bottle.

Flametree – Shiraz – 2011 (17.5). Gorgeous nose! Sweet red fruits to the fore with raspberry, spice and vanillin oak. A quality wine, the palate is fragrant, though quite one-dimensional at first. This really builds in the mouth, with white pepper, licorice, menthol and spice. Expensive oak is very well done.

Voyager Estate – Shiraz – 2010 (17). Forward cherry fruit that is both attractive and of decent quality. Well handled in the winery, there is enough density to make the palate rewarding. Long, though straightforward finish. A light, more elegant style from a cooler region.

Best’s – Shiraz – Bin 1 – 2010 (17). A more savoury style that relies on gentle, savoury fruit rather than power fruit and overt oak. Refined, this has quality fruit, but the wine took a couple of days to open up and show its best. Very well made and very long, with plum and mocha notes to close. Enjoyably different in style.

Chalk Board – Shiraz – Barossa – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine that is still very youthful. Vibrant, juicy, long and spicy, with chocolaty oak to close. I would like to try it again in a year to see how it is coming together. A bargain from Vintage Cellars.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2010 (16.8). Thick and dense smelling, showing licorice, spice and savoury oak. Ripe and quite powerful fruit on the palate with good balance. The finish is a touch short, but otherwise, an impressive wine for the cooler months.

Rogers & Rufus – Grenache – Rose – 2011 (16.8). Very pale salmon colour more akin to a European wine. This is a very good example of the style. There are red fruits, but the overall structure and finish is savoury and drying. Complex, long and mouth-watering, this is the highest mark I have given to a Rose in a long time. This is a style ideally suited to food.

Drakesbrook – Rose – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.5). Enticing nose that is fragrant and floral. Think frangipani and orange peel with a herbaceous twist. Quite a big wine, with nicely judged palate and a somewhat savoury close.

De Bortoli – Pink Moscato – La Bossa – 2011 (16.3). Pretty. This has lovely musk and grapey fruit on the nose. The wine sparkles in the mouth with a sherbet like tingle. Refreshing and quite long, this is a great quaff. 8% alc. (A bargain at under $10).

Shiraz and Rhone Reds

4th October 2009

I approached this tasting with a sense of anticipation. I knew there were several high quality shirazes from Western Australian , and an interesting bracket of Rhone Valley reds. I put the Rhone bracket together after reading Tim White’s review of the Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone in the financial review on the weekend. The local Vintage Cellars store had three Cotes du Rhone reds available, so I put them all in.

I was very pleasantly surprised by the quality of these wines. The Saint Cosme is fantastic. Great quality and a real bargain. With the current 30% off sale at VC’s this comes in at $14 per bottle. An equal bargain was the Vintage Cellars own brand Cotes du Rhone. This is full of succulent sweet fruit, but with enough spice to make its origins known. If you are looking for an everyday drinking red, then look no further. (On sale for $11).

Of the Australian wines, the Willow Bridge was a highlight. At around $30 this is excellent value for a wine of real class. A few of the Western Australian wines lacked a bit of generosity and the oak was a little grippy. I am sure these wines will improve significantly in time, but they are a little hard to judge right now.

Willow Bridge – Gravel Pit – Shiraz Viognier – 2007 (18). Serious fruit here and quality winemaking. Sweet ripe fruit and floral notes with lifted oak in support. Succulent and dense, this is a big wine. The palate is long and supple with ripe black fruits, anise and spice. Textured finish. Tasted twice with consistent marks. Excellent value.

Saint Cosme – Cotes du Rhone – 2008 (18). Closed and serious, but some ripe fruit is apparent underneath. Opens with some aromatic scented fruit. Really closed and dense on the palate, with chewy, dusty tannins to close. This really improved the next day, and was great with a pork curry. A bargain that I will be putting in the cellar.

Head – The Blonde – Shiraz – 2008 (17.5). Cherries and plums on the nose. The theme continues on the palate with fresh cherries, ripe plums, cedar and spice. The finish is long, but the tannins are a touch forward now. A quality textured finish and the alcohol does not get intrusive. Try in 3-5 years.

Capel Vale – Whispering Hill – Shiraz – 2007 (17.4). Complex and ripe with some cedary oak on the nose. The fruit is dense red fruit with a touch of floral/candied peel. The palate is defined by savoury and silky fruit. There is anise to close, but the fine tannins shut down the finish. Needs 3-5 years for the oak to settle and will score better. (Will drink well for many years).

Vidal Fleury – Ventoux – 2007 (17). Deeper smelling and closed. Earthy, but with some sweet fruit underneath. The palate is dense and firm (borders on aggressive). Chewy and savoury, this needs some time to soften out.

Vintage Cellars – Chalk Board – Cotes du Rhone – 2007 (17). Succulent cherries and licorice, with cloves and spice on the nose. Not complex but juicy, the palate is flooded with juicy red fruit. The finish is soft, plush, balanced and round. Not complex but lovely quaffing. Tremendous value. Drink now.

Forest Hill – Forest Hill Vineyard – Shiraz – 2007 (17). Lifted floral notes with some apricot too. The palate is sturdy but lacking finesse. Mid palate lacking depth but opens up. Seriously closed. May improve with 5 -10 years cellaring.

Castelli – Shiraz – 2007 (16.8). Dense and deep smelling. Cooler fruit with blackcurrant and menthol defining the palate. The tannins are ripe, but the wine lacks generosity now. Give it 5 years.

Massena – The Eleventh Hour – Shiraz – 2006 (16.7). Complex and earthy with a touch of leather and spice too. High quality sweet fruit underneath. The palate is a little old fashioned in style, but great fruit. May come together and get higher points in the future.

Les Nuages – Touraine – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.3). Lifted grassy fruit. Musk, pea, lime and talc on the nose. Grippy and firm to start, with some pineapple fruit. Savoury style but quite broad.

Vintage Cellars – Chalk Board – Shiraz – 2006 (16). Very ripe and sweet with vanillin oak too. A bit too much for me, but great value at $8-10.

New Release Shiraz

21st July 2009

Every now and then, we are lucky enough to do a tasting where most of the wines are good to excellent. I was both suprised and relieved to have this happen with these wines. Any of the wines that scored 17 or more were good. Some might have scored more on another day. Most of the wines tasted much better the next day after getting a bit of air. It is certainly a bit unfair to open and taste the wines within a few minutes, but that is the way it goes.

The Single vineyard wines from Yering Station continue to impress. The Windrush was a real suprise.This is a bargain at under $25 full retail.

The bargain of the year is the CJ Pask Shiraz. Grays online are auctioning off palates of CJ Pask wines and they are going for $10 – $25 per bottle. They usually sell for between $30 and $60.

Of concern was the number of wines with alcohol hitting 15%

The Wines

Yering Station – Smedley Lane Vineyard – Shiraz/Viognier – 2006 (18.5). Opens with clean varietal fruit on the nose and the palate. This wine is all about perfumed fruit and elegance. There is summer berries to close. The finish is long and silky and builds in the mouth. Excellent balance. This is the iron fist in the velvet glove. Took a while to open up, but a real delight and my choice to drink with rare roasted scotch fillet the next night.

Yering Station – Carr C Block – Shiraz/Viognier – 2006 (18+). Closed, but displays some sweet fruit and oak on the nose. This is followed by dense, rich, cool climate fruit. It is grippy and tannic right now, but will soften. There is liquorice and chocolate to close. Well balanced, this needs a few years to settle down. Hides the 15% alcohol well.

Rosemount – Balmoral – Shiraz – 2004 (18). Complex and evolving. Cherries, ripe plum and aniseed dominate the nose. The palate is structured, dense and mouth watering. Long and builds. Mouth coating with fine dusty tannins to close. Fine oak t dominates finish, but this will settle. Riper style with real substance.

Windrush – Shiraz – 2007 (17.7). A real surprise here! Opens a touch earthy, with pepper and liquorice on the nose that follows through on the palate. This wine is earthy, dense and ripe. The fruit is lovely and ripe. There are chalky tannins to close and the oak is well judged. A long, persistent finish. Not the most complex now but will evolve. (Really fleshy the next day. Very good.)

Sandalford – Estate Reserve – Shiraz – 2005 (17.5/17.9). Complex, rich and dense. Black fruits and a touch of forest floor. There is red currant on the palate with fine chalky tannins that shut down the fruit now. Vanillin oak grip noted but fine. Really dense and chewy the next night.

CJ Pask – Gimblett Road – Shiraz -2006 (17.6). Starts of closed and subdued. Demonstrates clear cool climate fruit. The palate starts quite lean and fine, but opens to show bright fruit with some pepper and spice. Supple oak to close. An elegant and refined wine.

Peter Lehman – The Futures – Shiraz – 2006 (17.5+). More of everything here, with real quality fruit and excellent structure. The palate is dense and long with sweet oak to close. This is dense, viscous and mouth coating. Classic Barossa Shiraz.

Hentley Farm – The Beauty – Shiraz – 2006 (17.4). Impressive packaging on this hard to assess wine. Will probably develop very well, but did not show well on the night. Next day – sweet dense and ripe. Ripe but fine finish. Long and silky. Very well made and good quality fruit. 15% alcohol.

Hentley Farm – Shiraz – 2006 – (17.2). Lifted and opens with a touch of earthiness. The palate is clean and fresh, with vibrant red fruits. Raspberries, peppery finish, viscous and mouth coating. Very seductive wine that is good right now. Bring on the pizza (purists might note the alcohol at 15%).

Capel Vale – Mt Barker – Shiraz – 2007 (17.2). Closed, but with fine sweet fruit. White pepper and lifted nose. The palate has sweet fruit that is ripe and a touch angular. Lots of cool climate peppery fruit. Very young but enjoyable over the next 5 years.

KT and the Falcon – Churinga – Shiraz – 2007 (16.9). More robust and richer in style. Some mocha and chocolate fruit. Oak rich and lifted. The palate is dense and layered. Vanillin oak to close. Structured and long. A big wine.

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon & Riesling

New Release

Reviewed: 22 June 2012

A variety of styles on display here. The complexity of the sauvignon blancs that had seen some oak appealed to the panel, though, like chardonnay, they could do with a couple of years in the bottle to reach their peak.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Brown Brother Patricia dessert wine was lauded by the panel. A superb wine that will hold its own against many high priced Sauternes, though the style is different.

Reviewed – Dry

The Lane – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – The Gathering – 2009 (17.5+). Very textural wine. This is more akin to chardonnay, with creamy oak and lees/barrel ferment notes and lemony fruit. This is a powerful wine with great length and oak complexity. Like a good chardonnay, I would encourage you to give this plenty of air or a year or two in the bottle to allow the fruit to come through.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2011 (17.5). One of the more serious wine here, in that it has been deftly massaged in the winery. The quality fruit has been well managed and displays plenty of southern Margaret River grassy notes. The palate hads nutty flavours and is textured, intense and pristine. Very long with good mouth-feel, the acid is still firm. Oak complexity (courtesy of the 30% of the fruit that was barrel fermented), fills out the finish.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Less grassy fruit and more tropical flavours than a lot of WA SB’s. Zesty palate that is long, with passionfruit pulp to close. Persistent and mouth-filling, the finish is very drying. A smart wine from Margaret River.

Chalk Board – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Cut grass on the nose, but there is a lot more going on here. I wonder if this has seen a touch of barrel ferment, as the textural component of the wine is a standout. Long and fresh, the acidity ties the palate together well. A surprisingly serious wine. Made by Wairau River from Marlborough fruit.

Galafrey – Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvy – 2011 (16.8). Racy, precise, textured and long, this is an excellent drink. This has quite delicate floral fruit, but I expect it to open up with a few more months in the bottle. There is a hint of residual sugar to balance out the palate nicely.

Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough – 2011(16.5). Overt and attractive nose. Grassy and herbaceous to start, with tropical highlights building in the glass. Long and tight, this is a leaner style that is very drinkable.

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – La Bossa – 2011(15.5). Bright and fresh, though quite simple fruit. Pleasant, fresh fruit flavours combine well with a touch of residual sugar to make this an excellent quaff.

Reviewed – Sweet

Brown Brothers – Riesling – Patricia – 2008 (18.2). Amazing palate that is intense, yet very fine and elegant. Long and fine, this should not be served too cold. The balance here is the key, as the wine blends power, intensity and persistence with finesse and elegance. A complex, botrytis affected wine with dried apricot and citrus peel and acidity that gives the wine real life on the palate.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Botrytis – 2010 (17.4). Volatile, but in a good way with hints of varnish and resin. Much more viscous than the Clairault, with greater length on the palate and moderate persistence. Apricots, honey and marmalade on an unctuous finish.

Clairault – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2011 (17.3). Lovely nose redolent of apricots, but with much more to offer. Fresh, bright, long and intense fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Intense and persistent, this is a lovely drink. (Though lacks the ultimate length of the best).

Juniper Estate – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2010 (17). Lighter and fresher than the others here, this is a little less sweet, and all the better for it. This will be the perfect foil for cheese or lighter desserts.

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

Reviewed: 25th March 2012

The classic saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” came to mind when we were unmasking the wines at the end of this tasting. The opposite is perhaps true with wine. Do judge a wine by its packaging.

Wine bottles come in all shapes and sizes, but when it comes to premium wines, understandable, wineries put these in to packaging that stands out. Taller, wider and heavier bottles are the order of the day, combined with an upmarket label and, perhaps, a Stelvin Lux closure.

When it comes to (Western) Australian SSB/SBS, a bigger package is also associated with more intervention in the winery. These so-called “Winemakers Inputs” include:

  • Barrel Fermentation (Usually part of the blend would be fermented in oak barrels)
  • Lees Stirring (To increase complexity and texture in the mouth)
  • Extended Skins Contact (Some of the wine might be left in contact with the skins after crushing for a short time to increase textural components of the wine).

Depending on the amount of each, the wines are transformed from a lighter, fresh and floral style, to a more complex and serious wine that demands attention. These are often wines for sipping rather than drinking, and all will look even better with food. These wines will often age well for a few years as the wine integrates and the fruit becomes more expressive.

This style is typical of white Bordeaux where the wines can age for a decade or more.

If you have not tried one before, consider it as an alternative to chardonnay one night and make up your own mind on the style.

Reviewed

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – B79 – 2011 (18). The nose is a cross between white Bordeaux and fine Chablis. Aromas of minerals, fruit and oak combine to make this a very fine wine. The palate has lovely lemony fruit and a long finish. The textural components from the winemaker’s inputs are spot on for this style of wine. Again, the new packaging is excellent.

Singlefile Estate – Fume Blanc – 2011 (17.8+). Zesty, this is just a bit too young at the moment. The nose shows barrel ferment and lees, but there is still fresh fruit to the fore. There is a lovely creamy finish and the length is spot on. This will be even better in a year or two when the fruit opens up and balances out the textural components and acidity.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2010 (17.5). Has more in common with high quality chardonnay than it does to a Margaret River SSB. Oak and spice dominate the nose and the finish. A quality wine that will go well with food.

Singlefile Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.4). A more serious style of wine than many here. This is showing green, herbaceous characters (green pee and asparagus) but I wonder if there is a touch of barrel ferment as well. Lively palate that is dry enough to keep the finish fresh and vibrant. Refreshing, intense and balanced.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.3). Taut and fine, this is a quality wine. Everything is in place and there are no rough edges. If anything, it needs a year or two to allow the fruit to express itself, but a fine wine all the same. Smart new packaging.

Smith and Hooper – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.1). Quite a complex aroma that has hints of lees and barrel fermentation. Lean and tight now, the quality of this wine is underlined by the textural component of the palate. Long and balanced, it needs a couple of years to show its best. From Wrattonbully and definitely worth a look.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Opens, with grass and lantana aromas. Smart wine that, whilst delicate, has real charm and appeal. Long and fine, the finish is all class. A very subtle wine to pair with seafood dishes.

Hay Shed Hill – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). Floral sweetness to the nose, with attractive tropical fruit highlights. The palate is zesty, vibrant and long, with grassy, gooseberry flavours predominating. Good length and a degree of (phenolic) viscosity that makes this an interesting drink.

Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). A very rich wine that has a degree of ripeness in evidence. The fruit is quite powerful, and the mouth-feel on the bigger side. Good acidity cuts through the finish, balanced by a touch of residual sugar. Will appeal to the in-laws.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2011 (16.6). Lovely nose that hints of green pear. In some ways, this reminds me of an Alsatian wine, with a mineral core to the fruit. Lemony fruit and acid dominate the palate and give this wine drive. I like it.

Houghton – White Classic – 2011 (16.5). Sherbet and tropical fruit over very fresh acidity and excellent length. Perhaps a touch reductive now, this needs a few years to settle and really shine. Bargain.

Grace Farm – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (16.4). A smart wine here, with forward citrus fruit balanced by juicy acidity on the finish. Not complex but quite long.

Oxford Landing Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16). Great value and smart new look.

Houghton – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (15.9). Another excellent value wine.

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon

Reviewed 14 August 2011

I continue to be surprised at just how tight and fresh Western Australian SSB/SBS/SB can be. Several wines in this tasting would really benefit from 6 – 12 months in the bottle to really settle down and they will drink well for a few years after that.

Not that many years ago, I would have suggested drinking the youngest wines available, but now I will go as far as to say that we should look out for the 2010 vintage wines, as they are more approachable right now.

The other surprising point from this tasting was the overall quality of the wines reviewed. I would happily drink any of the wines listed below.

Reviewed

Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Margaret River – 2009 (17.7). This is more interesting. Smoke, flint and match strike. A complex palate that has real depth of flavours. Obviously barrel fermented, this is a serious wine that needs some time to settle down. A quality wine that would make a good alternative to chardonnay.

Shepard’s Hut – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.6). Nice wine this. Well judged tropical fruit that is ripe, clear and restrained. The palate is textured, long and fine. This is quite complex, with lees and perhaps a small portion of barrel fermented fruit. Excellent length and a touch of sherbet on a balanced finish.

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre 2010 (17.5+). Very vibrant and forward. Tremendous acidity over quality fruit. Delicate, pretty, complex, depth and length of flavours with a touch of viscosity and phenolics. Wild yeast, new oak in part. This will be even better with a year in bottle.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Sideways – 2011 (17.5). A lovely, seductive nose. Complex, enticing and round. Yes, there are some tropical and grassy fruit notes, but there are also complex aromas and flavours, courtesy of the cleverly handled winemaking. I wonder if this has had a small component of fruit that has had some barrel ferment and lees contact. Lovely texture and mouth-feel. Creamy finish with length.

Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Frog Belly – 2010 (17.5). Softer nose with gentle fruit that has grassy notes and a touch of musk. Soft, round and generous palate with just enough acidity to balance the palate. Surprising length and lovely texture. A good drink, and should be good value.

Suckfizzle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2007 (17-18). Amazing nose! Pungent and very complex. Yes, there are typical SB notes with grassy, herbaceous fruit characters, but there is so much more. Barrel ferment, oak aged, lees stirring, this has it all. The palate retains remarkable freshness despite all the worked characters. A powerful wine, but not for the faint hearted. This wine polarised the panel, as the style pushes the boundaries (I was a supporter).

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17+). Round, soft and textural. A youthful style that is very delicate and refined. This will blossom in time and score higher points too.

Talisman – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17). Punchy nose. Vibrant and lifted fruit that has hints of musk and sherbet with lime acidity to close. Good length and intensity. Well made, with floral fruit, this needs a couple of months for the ferment characters to completely settle. Worth a try.

d’Arenberg – Sauvignon Blanc – The Stump Jump – 2010 (16.7). Interesting nose suggesting that this has quality fruit notes. Grassy and herbaceous, but with a tropical lift to close. Smart wine of some appeal that should be very good value.

Chardonnay & Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

Reviewed 18 June 2011

The chardonnay bracket was one of the strongest that the panel can remember. The semillon and SB wines were also pretty smart. All in all, one of the more memorable tastings with a higher than usual success rate.

Highlights for me were the Mt Horricks semillon and many of the chardonnays. If I had to pick one, it would be the Brookland Valley. Perhaps this is not quite as great as the Leeuwin, Heytsebury and Xanadu, but it is a sheer joy to drink now and over the next five years.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008 (18/18.7). Remarkably similar to a Sauzet Puligny Montrachet that I was lucky enough to drink last weekend. Very restrained and tight, though the acid is exhilarating. Hints of stonefruit to what is a smart wine. Lots of minerals and textural components to close, including some very fine oak tannins. After one day, this started to get some flesh on the mid palate. After two, it showed a treat. As with all Leeuwin Estate chardonnays, this will age well. Indeed, this wine demands to be cellared for at least 5 – 10 years to even approach its peak.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytsebury – 2009. (18 – 18.5). Mineral, slate and a touch of match strike. Curry leaf, vanillin oak and creamy texture on the palate. A wine that has had all the treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging, malo-lactic fermentation). Powerful and complex, this is a wine with great length. The powerful fruit makes this a great drink now or over the next 5 years.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – 2009 (18.3). A touch more nervous energy in this wine. Superb quality fruit and excellent wine-making have combined to make a wine of finesse and elegance. The fruit has intensity and power, but this is held in check by the tight knit oak and pineapple acidity. A seamless palate with tremendous length. This received extra marks for being an excellent drink!

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Closest in style to the Leeuwin Estate. Curry leaf, flint and mineral notes on the nose with pineapple undertones. The palate is lovely, with intense fruit, seamless oak and a silky palate. The balance here is the key. There is an undercurrent of stonefruit on a wine that is complex and well worked. Needs 5 years to show its best.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18). A superb nose that is complex, yet full of life. Creamy, peachy fruit, with just a hint of curry leaf that signals quality. Lemony oak dominates the fruit on the palate, but this is a very tight and fresh wine. Look for grapefruit and pineapple with citrus acid to close. Give it a few years to watch it blossom as this became quite expressive as it opened.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and dumb at present. A good wine, with no rough edges, just lacks the excitement of the Estate. Good length and quality fruit. Light, fresh and elegant, with granny smith texture on a very long palate. A well made wine that is tight and lean in a contemporary style.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.7). Closed and tight, yet there is no questioning the quality of this wine. Lemony fruit with hints of sherbet and tropical fruit. The oak is subtle and adds finesse to the close. Good drinking without being over the top, this wine held its own in a big bracket!

S/SB

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2010 (17.7). Creamy and quite delicious. Honey, vanilla and lemony fruit, with a hint of crème caramel. On the palate, this is a powerful wine that has been given royal treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging). Creamy and textured, with lovely lemony fruit that runs to the end of the palate.

Carpe Diem – Sauvignon Blanc – Schiaffo – 2010 (17). A very interesting wine that is not your typical Margaret River SB. More golden in colour, this has lanolin and vanillin oak notes to open. Lemony and tight, the palate is near seamless. Slight char to the oak is apparent on the finish. A quality wine that needs a year or two to settle down. Try instead of chardonnay.

Stella Bella – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite pungent fruit on the nose reflecting the cooler southern end of the Margaret River region. Lychee, passionfruit, lantana and tropical notes on the nose. Plenty of acid on the palate with good length and intensity. Smart.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume – 2010 (17+). As the name suggests, made in a different style to most Australian SBs. This has seen 8 months in oak. Complex nose and palate that has creamy lees characters and a touch of toast from the oak. Has a passing resemblance to White Bordeaux. An interesting wine that is worth trying.

Drakesbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.8). A touch more creamy than some, which is suggestive of some lees contact. (None mentioned on the label). The palate is bright, grassy and zesty, with good mouth-feel and length. An approachable wine that is good current drinking.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2010 (16.8). A fairly mainstream example of this blend. Starts of quite closed, but develops grassy/tropical notes with air. Lemon brullee on the palate. Very tight and a touch austere right now, this is a wine that could do with a year in bottle to settle down. Not overly complex, but nice zesty lemon fruit, good length and refreshing acidity.