Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

New Release Shiraz

21st July 2009

Every now and then, we are lucky enough to do a tasting where most of the wines are good to excellent. I was both suprised and relieved to have this happen with these wines. Any of the wines that scored 17 or more were good. Some might have scored more on another day. Most of the wines tasted much better the next day after getting a bit of air. It is certainly a bit unfair to open and taste the wines within a few minutes, but that is the way it goes.

The Single vineyard wines from Yering Station continue to impress. The Windrush was a real suprise.This is a bargain at under $25 full retail.

The bargain of the year is the CJ Pask Shiraz. Grays online are auctioning off palates of CJ Pask wines and they are going for $10 – $25 per bottle. They usually sell for between $30 and $60.

Of concern was the number of wines with alcohol hitting 15%

The Wines

Yering Station – Smedley Lane Vineyard – Shiraz/Viognier – 2006 (18.5). Opens with clean varietal fruit on the nose and the palate. This wine is all about perfumed fruit and elegance. There is summer berries to close. The finish is long and silky and builds in the mouth. Excellent balance. This is the iron fist in the velvet glove. Took a while to open up, but a real delight and my choice to drink with rare roasted scotch fillet the next night.

Yering Station – Carr C Block – Shiraz/Viognier – 2006 (18+). Closed, but displays some sweet fruit and oak on the nose. This is followed by dense, rich, cool climate fruit. It is grippy and tannic right now, but will soften. There is liquorice and chocolate to close. Well balanced, this needs a few years to settle down. Hides the 15% alcohol well.

Rosemount – Balmoral – Shiraz – 2004 (18). Complex and evolving. Cherries, ripe plum and aniseed dominate the nose. The palate is structured, dense and mouth watering. Long and builds. Mouth coating with fine dusty tannins to close. Fine oak t dominates finish, but this will settle. Riper style with real substance.

Windrush – Shiraz – 2007 (17.7). A real surprise here! Opens a touch earthy, with pepper and liquorice on the nose that follows through on the palate. This wine is earthy, dense and ripe. The fruit is lovely and ripe. There are chalky tannins to close and the oak is well judged. A long, persistent finish. Not the most complex now but will evolve. (Really fleshy the next day. Very good.)

Sandalford – Estate Reserve – Shiraz – 2005 (17.5/17.9). Complex, rich and dense. Black fruits and a touch of forest floor. There is red currant on the palate with fine chalky tannins that shut down the fruit now. Vanillin oak grip noted but fine. Really dense and chewy the next night.

CJ Pask – Gimblett Road – Shiraz -2006 (17.6). Starts of closed and subdued. Demonstrates clear cool climate fruit. The palate starts quite lean and fine, but opens to show bright fruit with some pepper and spice. Supple oak to close. An elegant and refined wine.

Peter Lehman – The Futures – Shiraz – 2006 (17.5+). More of everything here, with real quality fruit and excellent structure. The palate is dense and long with sweet oak to close. This is dense, viscous and mouth coating. Classic Barossa Shiraz.

Hentley Farm – The Beauty – Shiraz – 2006 (17.4). Impressive packaging on this hard to assess wine. Will probably develop very well, but did not show well on the night. Next day – sweet dense and ripe. Ripe but fine finish. Long and silky. Very well made and good quality fruit. 15% alcohol.

Hentley Farm – Shiraz – 2006 – (17.2). Lifted and opens with a touch of earthiness. The palate is clean and fresh, with vibrant red fruits. Raspberries, peppery finish, viscous and mouth coating. Very seductive wine that is good right now. Bring on the pizza (purists might note the alcohol at 15%).

Capel Vale – Mt Barker – Shiraz – 2007 (17.2). Closed, but with fine sweet fruit. White pepper and lifted nose. The palate has sweet fruit that is ripe and a touch angular. Lots of cool climate peppery fruit. Very young but enjoyable over the next 5 years.

KT and the Falcon – Churinga – Shiraz – 2007 (16.9). More robust and richer in style. Some mocha and chocolate fruit. Oak rich and lifted. The palate is dense and layered. Vanillin oak to close. Structured and long. A big wine.

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon & Riesling

New Release

Reviewed: 22 June 2012

A variety of styles on display here. The complexity of the sauvignon blancs that had seen some oak appealed to the panel, though, like chardonnay, they could do with a couple of years in the bottle to reach their peak.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Brown Brother Patricia dessert wine was lauded by the panel. A superb wine that will hold its own against many high priced Sauternes, though the style is different.

Reviewed – Dry

The Lane – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – The Gathering – 2009 (17.5+). Very textural wine. This is more akin to chardonnay, with creamy oak and lees/barrel ferment notes and lemony fruit. This is a powerful wine with great length and oak complexity. Like a good chardonnay, I would encourage you to give this plenty of air or a year or two in the bottle to allow the fruit to come through.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2011 (17.5). One of the more serious wine here, in that it has been deftly massaged in the winery. The quality fruit has been well managed and displays plenty of southern Margaret River grassy notes. The palate hads nutty flavours and is textured, intense and pristine. Very long with good mouth-feel, the acid is still firm. Oak complexity (courtesy of the 30% of the fruit that was barrel fermented), fills out the finish.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Less grassy fruit and more tropical flavours than a lot of WA SB’s. Zesty palate that is long, with passionfruit pulp to close. Persistent and mouth-filling, the finish is very drying. A smart wine from Margaret River.

Chalk Board – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Cut grass on the nose, but there is a lot more going on here. I wonder if this has seen a touch of barrel ferment, as the textural component of the wine is a standout. Long and fresh, the acidity ties the palate together well. A surprisingly serious wine. Made by Wairau River from Marlborough fruit.

Galafrey – Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvy – 2011 (16.8). Racy, precise, textured and long, this is an excellent drink. This has quite delicate floral fruit, but I expect it to open up with a few more months in the bottle. There is a hint of residual sugar to balance out the palate nicely.

Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough – 2011(16.5). Overt and attractive nose. Grassy and herbaceous to start, with tropical highlights building in the glass. Long and tight, this is a leaner style that is very drinkable.

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – La Bossa – 2011(15.5). Bright and fresh, though quite simple fruit. Pleasant, fresh fruit flavours combine well with a touch of residual sugar to make this an excellent quaff.

Reviewed – Sweet

Brown Brothers – Riesling – Patricia – 2008 (18.2). Amazing palate that is intense, yet very fine and elegant. Long and fine, this should not be served too cold. The balance here is the key, as the wine blends power, intensity and persistence with finesse and elegance. A complex, botrytis affected wine with dried apricot and citrus peel and acidity that gives the wine real life on the palate.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Botrytis – 2010 (17.4). Volatile, but in a good way with hints of varnish and resin. Much more viscous than the Clairault, with greater length on the palate and moderate persistence. Apricots, honey and marmalade on an unctuous finish.

Clairault – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2011 (17.3). Lovely nose redolent of apricots, but with much more to offer. Fresh, bright, long and intense fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Intense and persistent, this is a lovely drink. (Though lacks the ultimate length of the best).

Juniper Estate – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2010 (17). Lighter and fresher than the others here, this is a little less sweet, and all the better for it. This will be the perfect foil for cheese or lighter desserts.

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

Reviewed: 25th March 2012

The classic saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” came to mind when we were unmasking the wines at the end of this tasting. The opposite is perhaps true with wine. Do judge a wine by its packaging.

Wine bottles come in all shapes and sizes, but when it comes to premium wines, understandable, wineries put these in to packaging that stands out. Taller, wider and heavier bottles are the order of the day, combined with an upmarket label and, perhaps, a Stelvin Lux closure.

When it comes to (Western) Australian SSB/SBS, a bigger package is also associated with more intervention in the winery. These so-called “Winemakers Inputs” include:

  • Barrel Fermentation (Usually part of the blend would be fermented in oak barrels)
  • Lees Stirring (To increase complexity and texture in the mouth)
  • Extended Skins Contact (Some of the wine might be left in contact with the skins after crushing for a short time to increase textural components of the wine).

Depending on the amount of each, the wines are transformed from a lighter, fresh and floral style, to a more complex and serious wine that demands attention. These are often wines for sipping rather than drinking, and all will look even better with food. These wines will often age well for a few years as the wine integrates and the fruit becomes more expressive.

This style is typical of white Bordeaux where the wines can age for a decade or more.

If you have not tried one before, consider it as an alternative to chardonnay one night and make up your own mind on the style.

Reviewed

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – B79 – 2011 (18). The nose is a cross between white Bordeaux and fine Chablis. Aromas of minerals, fruit and oak combine to make this a very fine wine. The palate has lovely lemony fruit and a long finish. The textural components from the winemaker’s inputs are spot on for this style of wine. Again, the new packaging is excellent.

Singlefile Estate – Fume Blanc – 2011 (17.8+). Zesty, this is just a bit too young at the moment. The nose shows barrel ferment and lees, but there is still fresh fruit to the fore. There is a lovely creamy finish and the length is spot on. This will be even better in a year or two when the fruit opens up and balances out the textural components and acidity.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2010 (17.5). Has more in common with high quality chardonnay than it does to a Margaret River SSB. Oak and spice dominate the nose and the finish. A quality wine that will go well with food.

Singlefile Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.4). A more serious style of wine than many here. This is showing green, herbaceous characters (green pee and asparagus) but I wonder if there is a touch of barrel ferment as well. Lively palate that is dry enough to keep the finish fresh and vibrant. Refreshing, intense and balanced.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.3). Taut and fine, this is a quality wine. Everything is in place and there are no rough edges. If anything, it needs a year or two to allow the fruit to express itself, but a fine wine all the same. Smart new packaging.

Smith and Hooper – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.1). Quite a complex aroma that has hints of lees and barrel fermentation. Lean and tight now, the quality of this wine is underlined by the textural component of the palate. Long and balanced, it needs a couple of years to show its best. From Wrattonbully and definitely worth a look.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Opens, with grass and lantana aromas. Smart wine that, whilst delicate, has real charm and appeal. Long and fine, the finish is all class. A very subtle wine to pair with seafood dishes.

Hay Shed Hill – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). Floral sweetness to the nose, with attractive tropical fruit highlights. The palate is zesty, vibrant and long, with grassy, gooseberry flavours predominating. Good length and a degree of (phenolic) viscosity that makes this an interesting drink.

Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). A very rich wine that has a degree of ripeness in evidence. The fruit is quite powerful, and the mouth-feel on the bigger side. Good acidity cuts through the finish, balanced by a touch of residual sugar. Will appeal to the in-laws.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2011 (16.6). Lovely nose that hints of green pear. In some ways, this reminds me of an Alsatian wine, with a mineral core to the fruit. Lemony fruit and acid dominate the palate and give this wine drive. I like it.

Houghton – White Classic – 2011 (16.5). Sherbet and tropical fruit over very fresh acidity and excellent length. Perhaps a touch reductive now, this needs a few years to settle and really shine. Bargain.

Grace Farm – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (16.4). A smart wine here, with forward citrus fruit balanced by juicy acidity on the finish. Not complex but quite long.

Oxford Landing Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16). Great value and smart new look.

Houghton – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (15.9). Another excellent value wine.

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon

Reviewed 14 August 2011

I continue to be surprised at just how tight and fresh Western Australian SSB/SBS/SB can be. Several wines in this tasting would really benefit from 6 – 12 months in the bottle to really settle down and they will drink well for a few years after that.

Not that many years ago, I would have suggested drinking the youngest wines available, but now I will go as far as to say that we should look out for the 2010 vintage wines, as they are more approachable right now.

The other surprising point from this tasting was the overall quality of the wines reviewed. I would happily drink any of the wines listed below.

Reviewed

Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Margaret River – 2009 (17.7). This is more interesting. Smoke, flint and match strike. A complex palate that has real depth of flavours. Obviously barrel fermented, this is a serious wine that needs some time to settle down. A quality wine that would make a good alternative to chardonnay.

Shepard’s Hut – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.6). Nice wine this. Well judged tropical fruit that is ripe, clear and restrained. The palate is textured, long and fine. This is quite complex, with lees and perhaps a small portion of barrel fermented fruit. Excellent length and a touch of sherbet on a balanced finish.

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre 2010 (17.5+). Very vibrant and forward. Tremendous acidity over quality fruit. Delicate, pretty, complex, depth and length of flavours with a touch of viscosity and phenolics. Wild yeast, new oak in part. This will be even better with a year in bottle.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Sideways – 2011 (17.5). A lovely, seductive nose. Complex, enticing and round. Yes, there are some tropical and grassy fruit notes, but there are also complex aromas and flavours, courtesy of the cleverly handled winemaking. I wonder if this has had a small component of fruit that has had some barrel ferment and lees contact. Lovely texture and mouth-feel. Creamy finish with length.

Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Frog Belly – 2010 (17.5). Softer nose with gentle fruit that has grassy notes and a touch of musk. Soft, round and generous palate with just enough acidity to balance the palate. Surprising length and lovely texture. A good drink, and should be good value.

Suckfizzle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2007 (17-18). Amazing nose! Pungent and very complex. Yes, there are typical SB notes with grassy, herbaceous fruit characters, but there is so much more. Barrel ferment, oak aged, lees stirring, this has it all. The palate retains remarkable freshness despite all the worked characters. A powerful wine, but not for the faint hearted. This wine polarised the panel, as the style pushes the boundaries (I was a supporter).

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17+). Round, soft and textural. A youthful style that is very delicate and refined. This will blossom in time and score higher points too.

Talisman – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17). Punchy nose. Vibrant and lifted fruit that has hints of musk and sherbet with lime acidity to close. Good length and intensity. Well made, with floral fruit, this needs a couple of months for the ferment characters to completely settle. Worth a try.

d’Arenberg – Sauvignon Blanc – The Stump Jump – 2010 (16.7). Interesting nose suggesting that this has quality fruit notes. Grassy and herbaceous, but with a tropical lift to close. Smart wine of some appeal that should be very good value.

Chardonnay & Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

Reviewed 18 June 2011

The chardonnay bracket was one of the strongest that the panel can remember. The semillon and SB wines were also pretty smart. All in all, one of the more memorable tastings with a higher than usual success rate.

Highlights for me were the Mt Horricks semillon and many of the chardonnays. If I had to pick one, it would be the Brookland Valley. Perhaps this is not quite as great as the Leeuwin, Heytsebury and Xanadu, but it is a sheer joy to drink now and over the next five years.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008 (18/18.7). Remarkably similar to a Sauzet Puligny Montrachet that I was lucky enough to drink last weekend. Very restrained and tight, though the acid is exhilarating. Hints of stonefruit to what is a smart wine. Lots of minerals and textural components to close, including some very fine oak tannins. After one day, this started to get some flesh on the mid palate. After two, it showed a treat. As with all Leeuwin Estate chardonnays, this will age well. Indeed, this wine demands to be cellared for at least 5 – 10 years to even approach its peak.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytsebury – 2009. (18 – 18.5). Mineral, slate and a touch of match strike. Curry leaf, vanillin oak and creamy texture on the palate. A wine that has had all the treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging, malo-lactic fermentation). Powerful and complex, this is a wine with great length. The powerful fruit makes this a great drink now or over the next 5 years.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – 2009 (18.3). A touch more nervous energy in this wine. Superb quality fruit and excellent wine-making have combined to make a wine of finesse and elegance. The fruit has intensity and power, but this is held in check by the tight knit oak and pineapple acidity. A seamless palate with tremendous length. This received extra marks for being an excellent drink!

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Closest in style to the Leeuwin Estate. Curry leaf, flint and mineral notes on the nose with pineapple undertones. The palate is lovely, with intense fruit, seamless oak and a silky palate. The balance here is the key. There is an undercurrent of stonefruit on a wine that is complex and well worked. Needs 5 years to show its best.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18). A superb nose that is complex, yet full of life. Creamy, peachy fruit, with just a hint of curry leaf that signals quality. Lemony oak dominates the fruit on the palate, but this is a very tight and fresh wine. Look for grapefruit and pineapple with citrus acid to close. Give it a few years to watch it blossom as this became quite expressive as it opened.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and dumb at present. A good wine, with no rough edges, just lacks the excitement of the Estate. Good length and quality fruit. Light, fresh and elegant, with granny smith texture on a very long palate. A well made wine that is tight and lean in a contemporary style.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.7). Closed and tight, yet there is no questioning the quality of this wine. Lemony fruit with hints of sherbet and tropical fruit. The oak is subtle and adds finesse to the close. Good drinking without being over the top, this wine held its own in a big bracket!

S/SB

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2010 (17.7). Creamy and quite delicious. Honey, vanilla and lemony fruit, with a hint of crème caramel. On the palate, this is a powerful wine that has been given royal treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging). Creamy and textured, with lovely lemony fruit that runs to the end of the palate.

Carpe Diem – Sauvignon Blanc – Schiaffo – 2010 (17). A very interesting wine that is not your typical Margaret River SB. More golden in colour, this has lanolin and vanillin oak notes to open. Lemony and tight, the palate is near seamless. Slight char to the oak is apparent on the finish. A quality wine that needs a year or two to settle down. Try instead of chardonnay.

Stella Bella – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite pungent fruit on the nose reflecting the cooler southern end of the Margaret River region. Lychee, passionfruit, lantana and tropical notes on the nose. Plenty of acid on the palate with good length and intensity. Smart.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume – 2010 (17+). As the name suggests, made in a different style to most Australian SBs. This has seen 8 months in oak. Complex nose and palate that has creamy lees characters and a touch of toast from the oak. Has a passing resemblance to White Bordeaux. An interesting wine that is worth trying.

Drakesbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.8). A touch more creamy than some, which is suggestive of some lees contact. (None mentioned on the label). The palate is bright, grassy and zesty, with good mouth-feel and length. An approachable wine that is good current drinking.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2010 (16.8). A fairly mainstream example of this blend. Starts of quite closed, but develops grassy/tropical notes with air. Lemon brullee on the palate. Very tight and a touch austere right now, this is a wine that could do with a year in bottle to settle down. Not overly complex, but nice zesty lemon fruit, good length and refreshing acidity.

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

29 July 2010

I am the first to admit that a line up of fresh young white wines is a challenge for the panel. The acidity can be very tiring. However, the diversity of styles here made this tasting easier to cope with.

The highlight for me was the oak aged wines. This is a developing style in the Margaret River region and the wines are loosely based on the white wines of Bordeaux. Some or all of the wine is fermented in oak barrels and a portion will then be matured for a period in oak.

These are often complex and powerful wines. They come with a warning though – they are different. Typically powerful and complex, these wines bear no resemblance to the classic style that drinkers have become used to.

Suckfizzle takes this style to the extreme and has been released with a few years bottle age. The Parterre from Fraser Gallop is more accessible and an excellent example. Both are excellent wines, but they will polarize.

Finally, the Amelia Park is my recommendation in the more traditional fruit driven style. This is great drinking.

Recommended

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre – 2009 (18). More grass and hay characters here. Complex, worked style with a touch of barrel ferment characters. This is a serious wine, but is more approachable than the Suckfizzle. An excellent wine and while it will not appeal to everyone, this is a great example of the style. Don’t be afraid to age this for a few years.

Suckfizzle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2007 (17.8). Wow, now this is good. Complex nose with lifted citrus, almond meal and grassy notes overlaying complex barrel ferment, oak and lees aromas. The palate is powerful with more of the worked characters. This displays minerality, texture and oak handling reminiscent of fine chardonnay. Powerful and serious, this is not a wine to quaff on a sunny afternoon. One for the aficionado.

Amelia Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (17.3). A modern, perfumed style. Fresh, balanced and attractive, this is a lovely drink. Not as complicated as the oaked wines, this has lovely passionfruit and tropical flavours and balanced acidity. Not the most striking, but perhaps the best drinking. A wine that will appeal to everyone.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Wild Ferment 2009 (17). Musk, gooseberry and tropical fruit. Floral fruit on a lifted palate. This is quite viscous and textured. Serious fruit on a long and satisfying finish.

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.9). Lifted aromatic fruit in the tropical/passionfruit spectrum. Fresh and vibrant, there is a talc like minerality under long and quite complex fruit. Good.

Amelia Park – Classic Blend – Mishmash – 2010 (16.7). Musk, sherbet and gooseberry on the nose. The palate is fresh and quite tight. There is excellent length and good texture, in a modern style. Good fruit notes on the finish linger.

Long Flat – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.5). More restrained and steely. Lavender and spice on the palate are attractive, but the finish is firm and dry. Good Value.

Windrush – Rose – 2009 (16.5). Savoury, earthy fruit. Quite complex with good length. One panellist found Rhubarb compote, and berry fruit.

Angove – Rose – Nine Vines – 2010 (16). Savoury and quite smart. Soft fruit and a touch of sugar make for good drinking.

New Release Whites

21 January 2010

The change to screw cap closures on wines has been something that I have publicly embraced as a great compromise for wine lovers. Being free of all of the imperfections of cork is what it is all about. Whilst the screw cap is inert and reliable, it is not fool-proof. One important difference that I have noted is that wines stay fresher for longer. This impacts on both wines that you buy to age and wines that are best drunk young.

With wines designed for early consumption, like most of the wines in this tasting, the increased freshness has had another consequence that we need to bear in mind. By being slower to develop, they appear to take a little longer in bottle to show there best.

Years ago, I would not dream of keeping a sauvignon blanc for more than a year, but with many of the wines in this tasting, they were actually a little closed and tight. Several looked even better the next day with a bit of airing. I am not suggesting that you start ageing these styles, but it may be worth giving them a bit of air if you find that they do not meet your expectations. Some of the lightly oaked styles can easily take 2-3 years in the cellar.

So to the wines. Once again, the 2009 Clairault sauvignon blanc showed well. This is a lovely drink. Forester also seem to be kicking some goals with their sauvignon. I continue to be impressed with the wines from Deviation Road from the Adelaide hills. I must try and visit them at some stage this year.

This was meant to be a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc tasting, but unfortunately a few pinot gris/grigio wine got mixed up.

Tasted

Deviation Road – Pinot Gris – 2009 (17.5+). Clean and fresh smelling. There is sherbet, musk, pineapple and a touch of cinnamon. Evolves on the palate and has excellent mouth feel and texture. Persistent and balanced. Good acidity to close. (I had a glass with salmon the next night and it was excellent.)

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! More overt and obvious than some, there is pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passionfruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment but the fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months. There might be a touch of residual sugar, but it is all the better for it.

Forester – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Some zesty fruit on this. Ripe, concentrated passionfruit and tropical fruit with pineapple acid. Some winemaker inputs. Textured palate with good mouth feel. Lemony acid to close. Quite a big wine.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – 2009 (17). Pungent sauvignon characters with lantana and a touch of vanilla. Crème brulle on the creamy palate. Very good fruit and wine making. Fine close.

Hamlin Bay – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Lifted, grassy fruit with some passionfruit and musk. The palate is long, fresh and surprisingly viscous. Passionfruit to close. The finish is closed but well balanced.

Wine By Brad – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.8). Focused and precise nose. Quite fragrant, complex and balanced,with fresh acidity to keep the finish alive. Good summer drinking

Millbrook – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – Barking Owl – 2009 (16.6). Creamy nose, with some interesting fruit. Sweet fruit but without great excitement. Good current drinking.

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (16.5+). A different style to the WA and NZ wines. Starts off zesty and tight. The palate is powerful, long, focused but closed. Will do better with 6 months in the bottle.

Forester – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). This is closed and tight. This is quite a serious wine with good viscosity/mouth-feel and some worked wine making inputs. Will be better in a few months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). Sweet and ripe fruit on the nose, this is lacking some definition at present. A crowd pleasing style that builds intensity. Will be better in a few months.

Preveli – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5). More of the grassy characters here. Some musk and sherbet too. The palate is racy, but the acid is a little firm now.

Sidewood Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.4). A complex and funky wine with caramel on the close. Unusual.

 

Sauvignon Blanc

Reviewed: 12 February 2013

Another interesting tasting, with the lightly oaked versions tending to be preferred by the judges for their greater complexity and excellent mouth-feel. The balance of these wines was the key to their success.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Amberly and E&T Gnangara will provide plenty of enjoyment on a warm afternoon if you are looking for an uncomplicated drink.

Reviewed

Redgate Wines – Sauvignon Blanc – Reserve – 2012 (18). Elegant and refined, this is a lovely wine. This is a restrained expression of SB where the fruit is subdued and the textural components carry the finish. The hint of sugar to close balances the palate nicely, while a touch of barrel ferment to add texture. Unanimous praise from the panel.

Singlefile Wines – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – 2012 (17.5). A good example that balances grassy fruit with refreshing, lively acidity. There is excellent length and the fruit builds in the mouth. Complex, this is a nice compromise between ripe fruit and the savoury structure that comes from a portion of the fruit being fermented in barrel. The lime like acidity to close maintains the freshness.

Evans & Tate – Sauvignon Blanc – Metricup Road – 2012 (17.5). A lightly worked style with complex flint and match-stike character over minerals. The palate is textured and long, the barrel ferment and lees work providing the structure over which the fruit is built. With lemony acid to close, this is long and savoury. The balance and texture are a highlight. A very smart wine that will age well in the short term.

Brookwood Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17). Tropical fruit with gooseberry over lemon zest. Good length and bright fruit, this offers a lot in a mainstream style.

Chalice Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – The Estate – 2012 (17). Opens with grassy notes on the nose. The palate is grassy and savoury, with excellent texture and mouth-feel. The phenolics have been well judged, adding texture and complexity.

Amberley – Sauvignon Blanc – Secret Lane – 2012 (16.5). Fresh and vibrant, with juicy, lemony acidity. Not overly complex, but will be good value drinking if well chilled.

Evans & Tate – Sauvignon Blanc – Gnangara – 2012 (16.5). Grassy, mid weight fruit on both the nose and palate. The acid carries the finish making this a good choice served cold on a warm afternoon.

Sauvignon Blanc – New Release

Reviewed 24 January 2013

I was interested to read in the Financial Review that their wine reviewer Tim White had not formally tasted any sauvignon blanc in 2012. This must be very disheartening for the many hundreds of wineries who have sent samples in to be tasted.

I am pleased to say that I have reviewed numerous sauvignon blanc based wines in the last 12 months. Admittedly, like in this tasting, not many make it through to print, but those that do are thoroughly worthy of attention.

At the bargain end of the spectrum, the Houghton and Yalumba offer a lot of wine for the price, while the Killerby and Stella Bella demonstrate just how good the lightly oaked style can be. These are quite serious wines that are better suited to sipping over a meal than glugging on a warm afternoon.

Reviewed

Killerby – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.3). There are gentle barrel ferment and lees aromas to start, followed by match-strike and flinty fruit that has a lovely grassy edge with lemony highlights. The palate is complex, with the worked characters balanced by good quality oak. This is a nicely judged wine where the winemaker’s inputs are apparent, but do not dominate the fruit. Spicy, this should continue to evolve with a couple of years in bottle.

Stella Bella – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Cooler fruit on display showing herbaceous aromas with lantana and passionfruit. The palate is fresh, displaying racy acidity matched to gentle tropical fruits. The length is excellent and the mouth-feel spot-on. A satisfying and complete wine that would suit seafood perfectly.

Forester Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17+). Clean, fresh and racy, with just a touch of barrel ferment/lees work to add depth to the palate. Textured, the lemony fruit is the main feature here and there is excellent acidity and length to close. Lightly oaked and all the better for it.

Houghton – White Classic – 2012 (16.8). Muted nose with cut grass and a touch of floral aromas. The palate is vibrant and lively. There is a touch of viscosity, good depth to the fruit and the touch of residual sugar balances the fresh acidity well. Excellent summer drinking.

Yalumba – Sauvignon Blanc – Y Series – 2012 (16.7). Aromatic nose, with grassy aromas and a herbal lift. Follows through on a palate that is a little broader and has a touch of phenolic astringency that, when combined with the acid, makes this a refreshing drink. Nicely put together.

Lindeman’s – Sauvignon Blanc – Bin 95 – 2012 (16). A clean and fresh nose that has grassy fruit over tropical hints. Straightforward, and well made, this is a good commercial wine.

New Release – White

Reviewed: 13 October 2012

This tasting presented the opportunity to work our way through a number of interesting wines. From the ever reliable Shaw and Smith SB to the brilliant value Houghton White Classic.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – Pemberton – 2012 (17.8+). There is no mistaking the high quality oak which is creamy and very fine grained. The palate is viscous and the fruit intensity and quality are excellent. The oak and winemaker’s inputs suppress the delicate fruit now, so some time in the cellar will help this wine to fill out. There is Chardonnay like texture with lovely citrus acidity to close. A complex wine with lovely texture, length and aftertaste. Just give it a few years to fully express itself.

Shaw and Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.5). Grassy nose to open, with sweet tropical fruit highlights. Lovely fruit on the palate with gooseberry, fresh passionfruit and a hint of pineapple. Very long, the high acid is refreshing and taut. The creamy finish suggests a touch of lees, oak and/or barrel ferment. Another fine wine under this label.

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – The Yard – Channybearup Vineyard – 2012 (17.2). Lovely fresh fruit here over subtle worked characters and a hint of nuttiness. The palate is lively, taut, textural and long. Not overt, but the gentle fruit is very satisfying. There are hints of musk and sherbet to close that add interest.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc Blend – White Classic – 2012 (17). Clean and fresh with hints of pear and talc. The palate has lemony fruit that is vibrant and fresh. Good length, though the finish is quite taut and restrained. Easy to drink now, this is also likely to age superbly over the next 5 years. Bargain!

Willow Bridge – SBS – Dragonfly – 2012 (16.9). There is lemony fruit at the core of this wine. In the mouth, the fruit is persistent and long, with well judged balance. A great wine to drink on a sunny spring afternoon.

Millbrook – SBS – Barking Owl – 2012 (16.8). Smart wine. The palate is tight and long, though a touch linear now. With good mouth-feel, the balance is a highlight. This is a quality wine that could do with a year or so in the bottle to open up. There is a lovely finish with the acidity/sweetness balance perfectly judged. From Margaret River.

O’Leary Walker – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (16.7). More straight-forward and bright fruit that is in the tropical spectrum. Not overly dense, but an enjoyable wine with life.

Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (16.5). Pungent aromas of lantana, gooseberry, asparagus and pineapple. More of the same on a palate that is clean, fresh and uncomplicated. Good length to close. If you like you NZ SBs, then this is worth a try.