Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Penfolds 2011 Bin Release

Perth Town Hall

Reviewed – 10 February 2011

When I heard that Peter Gago and the team from Penfolds were coming to town to launch the new release of their famous “Bin” range of wines, I was keen to get a seat. The seat that they saved for me was, however, not one that I had in mind.

I found myself on stage as part of a three man panel to provide commentary on the wines during the evening. So much for sitting at the back of the room quietly sipping my wines. Not all was lost though because there were several significant points to come from the evening.

  • Penfolds are back – The evening was one of the best industry functions that I have seen. This was a professionally run event. From the slick event management team to the charismatic Master of Ceremony, nothing was left to chance. If only the panel on stage got to eat some of the numerous courses of food that, by all accounts, were delicious!
  • The people involved are passionate – Peter Gago is 100% committed to producing the best wines possible. David Phillips and the marketing team are also keen to re-establish Penfolds as the pre-eminent wine brand in the Australian market! They understand the heritage that they have inherited and are looking to build on it.
  • Grape quality is the key – If Paul Georgiadis, one of the suppliers of fruit to Penfolds, is anything to go by, then the numerous suppliers of premium grapes are focused on quality as the number one goals.

The wines are good – seriously good. The key here is the consistency right across the Bin range. From the riesling to the 389 and everything in between, these wines speak quality. It became immediately obvious that the 2008 wines are very classy. (Apparently, most of their fruit was picked before the heat wave). The wines from 2009 were also first rate and the Bin 128 was one of the highlights for the evening.

This tasting was not conducted blind, so it was hard to maintain objectivity when allocating points. Fortunately, I was able to review all the wines prior to the event to write my tasting notes. I have decided to give a point spread to many of the wines to try and get around any bias.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Riesling – Bin 51 – 2010 (17.8). Floral nose, with lime and lemon rind to start. Opened to show musk and lavender and a touch of sherbet. The palate starts off round and generous, with lovely lime acidity to keep the finish tight, then develops very floral fruit characters. Drink now or later.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2010 (17.5+). A serious wine. The whole spectrum of wine-makers’ inputs are on show here. Barrel ferment, lees stirring and partial malo-lactic fermentation are all probably employed. Peaches and cream on the nose evolves into a mealy/nutty nose. The mouth-feel is spot on and there is lemony acid to close. A very modern cool climate wine that will improve for several years.

Penfolds – Pinot Noir – Bin 23 – 2010 (17.5). Solid colour in the glass, with dense fruit on the nose. Closed initially, but develops a lovely perfume with fruitcake spice and a touch of strawberry. The palate is an amalgam of cherry, spice, cedar and cinnamon, with a touch of leather to close. Sappy, savoury notes open up to bright red fruits to close.

Penfolds – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Bin 138 – 2009 (17.3 – 17.7). Very attractive purple hue courtesy of the grenache. Whilst there are attractive red fruits and supple tannins, the density of fruit is the key to this wine. Only medium weight in the mouth, the palate is fine and silky. The lack of any obvious oak flavours makes this a great match for food like a plate of antipasto.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 128 – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Classic Penfolds nose. The high quality concentrated fruit is very dense. Cinnamon, cedar, plum, licorice and black pepper. This is a very complex wine. Although the fine grained French oak is apparent, the balance of the Bin 128 is the key to its appeal. A seductive wine that will last for many years.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 28 – 2008. (18 – 18.5). Whilst the family resemblance is immediately obvious, the Bin 28 is more opulent than the Bin 128. The fruit is deliciously ripe, yet there is elegance to this wine. There are fresh plum aromas along with spice, Christmas cake and trademark Penfolds oak handling. This wine is dense and textured, though the finish is a touch grippy right now. An excellent Bin 28 and one that is sure to last for 20 years if cellared properly.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Bin 407 – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Traditionally a favourite of mine in the Penfolds line up, the Bin 407 has been gradually repositioned in price and now sits just below the Bin 389. The key to this wine is that the fruit is ripe rather than jammy. There is a touch of peppermint, blackcurrant and cigar box to the nose with a savouriness running across the top. The palate is superb, though very tight. The line and length are spot on. A balanced wine that needs 5 years to open up.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 150 – 2008 (17.7 – 18.5). Quite a different style to the other Bin wines, 2008 is the first vintage of this wine. Sourced specifically from the Marananga sub-region of the Barossa, the fruit is more lifted and perfumed than the Bin 28. Licorice, earthy notes and even hints of Sunday roast appear on the nose. The palate is very silky with prodigious tannins that are very fine. Hints of mocha and tar to close. An excellent wine, though this was harder to taste as the fruit and structural components are still integrating. One for the long term.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Bin 389 – 2008 (18.3 – 18.7). This is wine! If anything, even more complex than the rest of the line up. This is full of subtleties and evolves in the glass. Cedar, plum, cherry, blackcurrant, chocolate, leather and coffee are all expressed. The palate is seamless, yet develops a chewy texture to close. The structure is outstanding and the wine is a meal in itself.

Conclusion

A superb line up of wines. The value wines are the Bin 128 and the Bin 28. Every cellar should have some. The pick for me though was the Bin 389. A formidable wine that Peter Gago and the team must be very proud of.

Cape Mentelle

New Release

14 December 2010

When I consider the Margaret River region as a whole, Cape Mentelle rates amongst the best. As with wineries such as Mosswood and Vasse Felix, it is the strength of the entire range, rather than an individual wine, that makes Cape Mentelle stand out from the crowd. Their cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc/semillon blend are all amongst the best of their styles from the region.

We are blessed that these wineries are in Australia rather than the left bank in Bordeaux, the historical home of great cabernet based wines. Producers in Bordeaux are constrained by tradition and regulation in what they can produce. Australian wineries are free to plant any suitable grape variety and make wines in a variety of styles.

Over time, it has become obvious that some varieties and regions are particularly well suited. The Great Southern has a special affinity for riesling and shiraz for example. Margaret River’s fame is based on cabernet sauvignon, though it is clear that chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and semillon are also equally at home here.

Rob Mann, the senior winemaker at Cape Mentelle, was in town recently to show their new release wines. This year sees and expanded range of wines with the addition of the Wilyabrup red and the repackaging of the range to reflect the different quality levels.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon -2010 (17.7). A very grassy style. There is gooseberry and passionfruit on a very complex nose. The palate is complex and long, with a bone dry finish. The fruit characters are in the lime juice theme and there is a creamy, textured mouth-feel. The semillon component was barrel fermented.

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Wallcliffe – 2008 (18.1+). This is very reminiscent of white Bordeaux. Yes, there are grassy notes, but this offers so much more! There are hints of minerals, spice and complex “worked” aromas courtesy of slick wine-making. The palate is all about texture. The fruit is subdued but the creamy mouth-feel would carry food well. Impressive.

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Very tight and closed. The nose is clean and fresh, with nectarine and peach aromas. The palate is seamless and supple, with a silky mouth-feel. Really needs 3-5 years to show its true potential.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2008 (18). Wow. Really juicy fruit in the plum spectrum, with classic black pepper running over the top of licorice and mulberry. The peppery fruit continues on the palate, but the fine oak and tannins shut down the finish. Silky and long, this has a bright future.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2008 (17). Great nose for an entry level wine (though the Marmaduke probably fits that bill better). Blackcurrant, cedar and spice are evident. The palate is firm and quite tight, but with good length. Fruit concentration builds, but falls short of others in this tasting.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Wilyabrup – 2008 (17.8+). Very closed to start, this develops rich and complex red fruit aromas on the nose. The palate is very fine. There is cedar and spice over lovely fresh fruit characters. Whilst fine and elegant, this wine remained very closed, with chalky tannins flattening the fruit. Very smart, but requires patience and a bit of faith as this will be better in 5 years and will last for many more. 400 cases made.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.5). A real step up in fruit concentration on the nose, with red fruits, cedar, licorice, tar and cloves. The palate is dense and brambly, with blackcurrant fruit. There is a great deal of complexity and excellent length carried by chewy yet fine tannins.

Mixed International Tasting Highlights

A Boot-full of Wine Tasting notes from Italy

Here are some amazing wines I had the pleasure of tasting at a large, recent tasting. A plug for this particular vinoteca (wine shop) – they are serious about European, and Italian in particular, wines, and several times a year put on large tastings. They are located just outside Florence, on the doorstep of Chianti. These wines featured at a larger tasting of vigneron champagne, which I shall write about next week.

Reviewed

France- Burgundy

Lescure Chantal – Pommard – Premier Cru – Les Vaumuriens – 2005 (18.25). A fantastic wine for the price (31 Euro). All the classic hallmarks of a great Burgundy with the added stamp of 2005 – great acid, structure, tannins and cherry fruit, beginning to wind its way to some early compost complexity.

Sigaut Hervé – Morey St Denis – Premier Cru – “Les Millandes” – 2005 (18.25). Again reflective of a great year, austere, with high acid levels, complexity (including, I felt, some hints of chocolate) and length.

Domaine Bertagna – Clos de Vougeaot – Grand Cru 2006 (18.5). Sure, this wine needs more time, but – WOW! – such powerful fruit, tannins – power with elegance.

Pillot Fernand & Laurent – Pommard – Premier Cru “Clos de Verger” 2006 – (18.25). Varietally as faithful as they come. Beautiful cherry and strawberry fruit, with hints of coffee possibly derived from the oak.

Chablis

Bouchard Pascal – Chablis – Grand Cru – Les Clos – 2005 (17.5). Wet stones and citrus – superb minerally example of Chablis with just a whisker less acidity than I would have expected.

Defaix Daniel-Etienne – Chablis – Premier Cru – “Vaillons” – 2001 (17.75). Even more complexity and flint evident, superb persistence of core citrus fruit.

Defaix Daniel-Etienne – Chablis – Premier Cru – Les Lys– 2001 (17.5). An amazing wine, lively and spritely despite its age, with evolution evident, but with a core of steely minerality.

Defaix Daniel-Etienne – Chablis – Blanchot – 2003 (17.75). This didn’t hit me at first like the Premieres Cru, perhaps because of lower acidity owing to the hot year. However, its subtle flavour kept building and building, and then just hung on.

Defaix Daniel-Etienne – Chablis – Grand Cru – Grenouilles – 2004 (18). Apples, honey, brioche and lemon zest doing a dance on the palate. A long dance.

Languedoc

Prieuré De St Jean De Bebian – Coteaux Du Languedoc (Rouge) – 2001 (18). A mix of Syrah 40%, Grenache 40% and Mourvedre 20%, this wine was expressive, with sweet brambly and plum fruit, with some smoky notes, and undergrowth complexity – like a Frenchman’s armpit! Or so I’m told….

Austria

Brundlmayer (Kamtal) – Riesling – Zobinger Heiligenstein – 2006 (18). Clean, pure, crisp, and dry. Beginning to show early aged characters adding complexity to the pristine citrus palate.

Brundlmayer – Gruner Veltliner – Berg Vogelsang – 2007 (17.75). I tend to distinguish Gruner Veltliner from Riesling in Austria by the slightly “fatter” midpalate, by the mouthfeel, and profile of the fruit flavours (which can be similar to Riesling). This was a superb example, full of citrus and mineral flavours.

Brundlmayer – Gruner Veltliner – Ried Kaferberg – 2002 (18.5). Aged Gruners are one of Austria’s best kept secrets. Indeed, even most Austrians prefer to drink theirs young. Gruners age differently to Rieslings, not developing that kerosene flavour, but instead a kind of “sweetness” and complexity of depth of flavours. As was the case here.

Germany

Fritz Haag (Mosel) – Braunenberg J Sonnenuhr – Riesling – GoldKap – 2007 (18.5). With an amazing 135g/l of residual sugar, this wine is delicate and its sweetness exquisitely balanced with searing acidity: a whopping 8.9g/l! Alcohol levels are 7% – this wine would be at its best in 15 years+!

Prum Joh. Jos. (Mosel) – Wehlener Sonnenuhr – Riesling – Auslese – 2007 (18.5). Like the Fritz Haag, this is from the great Sonnenuhr (Sundial) vineyard in the Mosel. Honeyed sweetness, piercing clarity of fruit, bright acidity – this too calls out for time in the cellar.

Donhoff (Nahe) – Dellchen – Grand Cru- Riesling – Grosses Gerwachs – 2007 (17.75). This has an amazing 13.5% alcohol and 8 g/l of residual sugar – global warming effects? It is bright, poised and balanced, with slate and citrus, especially grapefruit characters. A slight bitterness on the finish (reflective of the higher alcohol?) caused me to mark it “down”.

Kunstler (Rhiengau) – Hochheimer Herrenberg – Riesling – QBA – 2007 (17.5). Most like the dry Aussie Rieslings we are used to, at 18 Euro I thought this was great value. A pure lemon-lime zingy palate, with a just hint of fruit sweetness. Though a QBA wine, with 8.1 g/l acidity, this would only improve after a few years.

Slovenia

Simcic Edi – Sauvignon – Riserva – 2006 (17.2). These wines, especially from this producer, were a great find for me, and illustrate the great things that are being done in the world of wine in Slovenia. Varietally spot on, without too many methoxypyrazines to overload the palate with “cat’s piss”; instead bitter stone fruit added to the flavour complexity. I cannot tell from the website whether this has had any contact with oak, but suffice to say it has a softer rounder mouthfeel than most other Sauvignon Blancs I have tasted.

Simcic Edi – Chardonnay – Cru “Kozana” – 2006 (17.25). Very Burgundian, with good levels of acidity and minerality to match. 17.75 pts Simcic Edi Malvasia Riserva 2007 An amazingly intense wine, with apricots, mint, eucalypt and aromatic herbs and spices – like nothing I have ever tasted before. Hard to think what food to match it with – perhaps fragrant, oily fish?

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

 

Grosset/Mosswood Launch and Friends

15 September 2010

When I was informed that Matt Holden, the Sales Manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers decided to put on his new release wines from Grosset, Mosswood and Pierro etc, I jumped at the chance to review the wines.

The highlight was the Grosset Polish Hill. A truely great wine. There were a few other stars including the Mt Horricks 2010 riesling and the Mosswood Chardonnay.

Please note, the wines were not tasted blind, and this may have influenced my points.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Mt Horricks – Riesling – 2009 (17.5). Floral, perfumed, round and mellow, yet with lovely lime juice acidity. The palate is long and tight to close, but this is a touch more developed than the others here.

Mt Horricks – Riesling – 2010 (18.1). Lifted fruit on the vibrant nose, with musk and lime juice. There is even a touch of granny smith apples. Lemon and lime brule on the palate. This is fine, long and quite seamless. (This is possibly the best riesling ever made by this producer.)

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010.(18.7). Wow, this is special. The nose is restrained and tight, yet bristling with potential. There are lovely floral notes and a touch of citrus. The palate is fine, taught, crisp and seamless. The length is outstanding and the floral notes continue on the extraordinarily fine finish. This is the best young Australian riesling that I have ever tasted!

Grosset – Riesling – Springvale – 2010 (18). Surprisingly closed by comparison to others here. Steely nose with minerals and lime juice. A touch of orange rind. Again, very long and with floral and musk on the close. Very good.

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Wilyabrup – 2009 (17.5). Complex and grassy with green apple. This is clean, fresh and vibrant, yet there is a lot of intrinsic power coiled up and waiting to develop over a few years. Interesting wine.

Pierro – Chardonnay – 2008 (18.2+). Pineapple fruit, lees, barrel ferment and oak all appear on the lifted nose. Peaches and cream to the fore on the palate. This is very long and fine. It is a more forward style, yet retains its elegance and poise. Good length and excellent mouth-feel. This really opens and gets better with air.

Mosswood – Chardonnay – 2008 (18.2). Restrained and closed on the nose – this is extraordinarily fine. Yes there are some pineapple and stone fruit characters, yet these are subdued. Whilst the oak is a little forward right now, this will settle. A textural treat that needs a few years to show its best.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.6). Perfectly ripe and very dense, the fruit quality here is superb. This is ripe, with raspberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, cedar, spice and a touch of tar. The fruit is incredibly dense and fine, suggestive of a warmer year. Silky tannins and excellent length of flavours are a feature. As this opened, it displayed more of the characters typical of Margaret River cabernet.

Chapel Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 – (18). Dense and closed initially, this has impressive fruit on the nose. The palate is dense and firm, the fruit characters are subdued and the tannins are fine if a bit chalky. Very good fruit combined with excellent winemaking guarantee a very long future. (This should also be good value).

Pierro – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 – (18). Cooler fruit characters with mint and some eucalypt. Perfectly ripe fruit that is starting to show the first signs of development. The palate is soft and supple, and there is good mouth-feel. Not quite as dense fruit as the others, but great drinking.

Feet First – Shiraz – 2008 (17.7). Fresh, but with dense fruit. The palate is all pepper and spice. There is cinnamon and nicely weighted fruit. The tannins are firm, but these will soften. Should be excellent value.

Chapel Hill – Shiraz – 2008 (18.3). Dense, ripe and displaying very good fruit. Super wine this, the fruit is dense and ripe, yet this is a restrained wine that will need years to show its best. Some chocolate to close. Silky tannins and Satsuma plum fruit. Textured, balanced and excellent oak.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.4). Intense and racy nose. The intensity of fruit on the palate is a revelation. The finish is fine, long and seamless – this is a superb wine. Excellent length and intensity of fruit.

Lamont’s – Direct Imports

12 September 2010

Lamont’s in Cottesloe has received another shipment of imported wines. Apparently they are importing the wines direct from Europe, thus cutting out the middle-men. The prices range from good to excellent for the given quality, with the Italian selection being particularly good value.

Wines from Burgundy have become so expensive in general, that even at these ex-ship prices, they are quite pricey, though there is still some value to be found.

My picks include the Bonon – Meursalt, Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba, Araldica – Barbera d’Ast and the Arpatin – Barolo.

This was not a blind tasting, so I have tried not to be too generous with my points. With the reds, I could have been more generous with my points, but because we were only trying one or two wines from each style, I was conscious of the lack of perspective. Be assured that these are good wines.

Tasted

White Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Les Tillets – 2008 (17.8). Minerals to the fore, with complex almond meal, cashew nut and lemony oak. The palate is very rich and textured, with slightly honeyed fruit. The length is a highlight and the oak is not obtrusive. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Meursalt – Clos de la Velle – 2006 (17.9). Much finer and closed compared to the Bonin. Develops nutty fruit and minerals with air. In the mouth, this is creamy, seamless, textured and very fine indeed. The fruit is subdued. One for the purists! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots 1er Cru – 2006 (18.3). Lovely refined nose, with minerally, textural components overlaying curry leaf and creamy oak. The palate really builds in the mouth, but this remains very elegant and fine. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Charmes 1er Cru – 2007 (17.4). Interestingly, this has all the components of a good white burgundy, yet I preferred the Les Tillets! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Phillippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Les Pucelles 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Classic nose. Complex, yet refined, this is more restrained than some here. There is almond and apricot fruit notes intertwined with creamy textural components. The power on the palate is a revelation, yet this remains very fine and seamless. Superb wine! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18). From one of my favourite appellations. More peachy fruit on the nose, this is all about refinement. There is a minerality to the palate, with excellent balance and length. This is a very subtle wine. (Chardonnay).

Red Burgundy

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2008 (16.8). A good entry level burgundy, with simple fruit characters. The mouth-feel, fruit and texture are all good.

Domaine Philippe Livera – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2007 (17.9). More complex nose displaying plum, blueberry and earthy notes that combine well. Lovely fruit on the palate, and real depth. This is quite seamless, long and taught. A lovely example.

Domaine Humbert Freres – Gevery Chambertain – Poissenot 1er Cru – 2007 (18.2). Complex, but quite closed. Develops lovely perfumed fruit, reminiscent of violets. The palate is closed and tight, yet delicate and very fine. Superb length and texture, the refinement is the key.

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Vosne Romanee – Les Suchots 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Complex and earthy, this has licorice, tar, cinnamon, spice and raspberry fruit. The fruit characters are more pronounced on the palate, with incredibly fine tannins. The oak has been absorbed by the fruit. This has superb length and depth, and the finish fans out across the palate beautifully.

Italian

Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba – Superiore – 2008 (17). Lovely cherry fruit with tar and licorice on the nose. This is a fruit driven wine that is fresh, vibrant, juicy, soft and thoroughly refreshing. A modern style and great value.

Poderi Alasia – Barbera d’Asti – Rive (Il Cascinone) – 2007 (17.3). More savoury and earthy, with licorice, spice and lots of pepper. The palate is reminiscent of cool climate shiraz, with peppery fruit, that is long, textured and structured. There is leathery fruit to close.

Frascole – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.4). Cherry fruit to open, but briary and dense, with leather and spice. The palate is dominated by spicy fruit and drying tannins. A good example, and organic to boot!

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.8). More complex, with more fruit weight than the Frascole. This is very textured and structured in a traditional style where the fresh fruit notes are exchanged for mouth-feel and structure. Another organic wine, but this is crying out for food. Good value!

– d’Annona – Barbera d’Asti- 2007 (17.8). Wow – this has an exciting nose displaying cherry, tobacco, plums, cedar and anise. This keeps evolving. This is a powerful wine where fruit, oak and tannins combine to coat the palate with an amalgam of flavours and textures. Will be even better in a year or two.

Arpatin – Barbaresco – 2006 (17.5). More savoury, with real density. There is licorice all sorts on the nose. Typical of the style, this is textured and has really chewy tannins. Whist the tannins are fine, they are formidable. 10 years +.

Arpatin – Barolo – 2005 (17.8). Savoury, with dark fruits, cherry, coffee and tar. The palate is really dense and chewy. The tannins are finer than the Barbaresco. This is great value, but needs at least 10 years to show its best.

Gianni Voerzio – Barolo – La Serra – 2005 (18+). Closed. Pristine fruit, silky tannins and excellent texture. Superb mouth-feel and tremendous depth, this is fine and dense. (Not cheap though).

New Release – Mixed

Adam from Fine Wine Partners wanted to show us a cross section of their range, so I took the opportunity to pair the wines with similar wines and see how they faired.

The standout was the St Hallett’s Gamekeeper’s Reserve Shiraz/Cabernet. A great value wine from the excellent 2008 vintage.

The only downside from a tasting like this is the lack of perspective that we get from looking at 15 or 20 wines of the same variety. Still, a good wine is a good wine.

Reviewed

Henschke – Riesling – Julius – 2009 (18). Quite oily to open, with plenty of minerals too. The palate is firm and austere. No rough edges on this, and it has lime juice acidity that is precise and focussed. Granny Smith apple acidity to close. Needs time.

St Hallett – Shiraz/Cabernet – Gamekeeper’s (17.7). Lovely nose, with licorice and tar over white pepper and cinnamon. The palate is fresh, vibrant and displays succulent fruit. Any oak is in the background. Very good drinking.

Ashbrook Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5). Well supported by the panel. Almond meal and minerals on the nose with some stonefruit notes. The palate is tight and quite austere, yet the texture is excellent. This is a worked wine, but in a refined style. There is fine oak and some lees and barrel ferment notes with a complex and long finish. Not everyone’s style, but an interesting wine that is worth a try.

Wise – Cabernet – Eagle Bay – 2008 (17.5). Elegant and refined. Lovely fruit is typical of cabernet. This is dense and textured and the tannins are chalky yet fine. There is dense ripe fruit and licorice/spice. Serious quality fruit that will evolve well with 5-10 years in the bottle.

Capel Vale – Shiraz – regional Series – 2008 (17.4). Lush and dense. Licorice and spice on the nose. Some chocolate and mocha too. Plenty of pepper on the palate, this is a smart wine. The finish is clean and fresh, developing some pretty fruit characters. Spice and licorice. Acid gives the palate carry, oak needs to settle.

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2008 (17.3). Fresh and obvious pinot fruit characters in the strawberry and cherry spectrum. The palate follows the theme and is elegant and a touch angular. Should flesh out with a few years.

Wise – Shiraz -2008 (17.3). Pristine red fruits on the nose. The palate is firm, but with enough flesh to make for interesting drinking. There is quite a souring finish that should carry food well. Big, round, dense. Tannic finish. Plummy bright fruit.

Seresin – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 – (17). Another good effort from Seresin. Tropical fruit to the fore with passionfruit and musk. The palate has some grassy notes with fruit salad and fresh acidity to close. Relatively dry. Pungent style but good.

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). Lovely seductive nose. Really deep smelling. Black cherries, tar, cedary oak all vie for attention. There is plenty of grip on the slightly stalky finish that shuts down the fruit.

Vidal – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 – (16.9). Musk, lantana and fresh, floral characters. Fresh and bright, but without great depth. Excellent value. Made by Villa Maria.

Sandalford – Rose – 2010 (16.5). The vivid colour is remarkable. Nice fruit characters on the nose. Juicy and succulent, yet with enough depth to make it interesting. Dry and firm palate with some redcurrant and red creaming soda flavours.

Barwick Estate – Chardonnay – The Collectables – 2009 (17.5). Big, rich and creamy wine in a more old-fashioned style. Broad and with high toned smoky/bacon fat oak. There is no doubt that this is impressive, it is just a style that I do not want to drink yet. Interestingly, after being open for several days, I had another look and the peachy cramy palate was outstanding. Points for potential.

New Release – Fine Wine Wholesalers

Matt Holden, the sales manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers, arranged this tasting to showcase some of the new releases in their portfolio. The wines were tasted blind, and they are listed in the order tasted.

Matt is one of the best operators that I have come across in the industry. Competition in the wholesale industry is fierce. There are little or no barriers to entry, and there are new wineries appearing every week that need some-one to sell their wines. Little wonder that wine wholesaling is considered a challenge. Matt’s success is due to hard work and an excellent product range, (think Mosswood, Grosset, Pierro etc).

There were two highlights for the tasting. One was the Castle Rock riesling, a wine bursting with vitality. The other was the Seresin’s Leah pinot noir. This is a fantastic wine. Whilst it displays many of the characteristics of a good burgundy, it also has fantastic drinkability, (something that a lot of premium wines can lack).

Reviewed

Seresin – Pinot – Leah – 2008 (18.5). More complex and alluring, with spicy cedary overtones. The palate is quite lovely, showing pristine fresh fruit characters with a hint of oak toast to bring it all together. Tannins are fine and supple and the finish is long. Good mouth-feel and texture too. This got gold medal points for sheer drinkability and will show up a few burgundies over the next 5 years.

Castle rock – Riesling – 2010 (18+). More classically structured than the Alkoomi. Lime juice and minerals to the fore on the nose. The palate is fresh and zesty with lovely tingling acidity. Very long. Will be a star!

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – 2008 (18). Quite dumb to start, but hints at potential. Satsuma plum, cherry, anise and blackcurrant. The palate is complex and savoury. The fruit is very dense and only hints at potential. The fine tannins and quality oak add to the finish. Chocolate and coffee on the finish.

Feet First – Cabernet/Merlot – 2009 (18). Attractive blackcurrant fruit on the nose. The palate is flooded with quality fruit and the oak sits backstage to fine tannins and acid. Mouth feel is good and the fruit evolves. Give it time. Very good value.

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Nest Egg – 2007 (17.8+). Lovely, seductive nose with plum, blackcurrant, forest floor and a touch of quality oak. Follows on the palate in a medium bodied style. Will develop well and has superb fruit quality.

Deepwoods – Cabernet – Reserve – 2008 (17.8). Restrained and elegant, with cedar and dark fruit aromas. The palate is long, vibrant and dense. The mouth-feel is silky with a very soft finish. Wow, this really opens up and builds lovely, vibrant fruit. Just gets better.

Deepwoods – Cabernet/Shiraz – Ebony – 2009 – (17.8). Structured and closed. The palate is very dense and layered, but the fruit has trouble escaping. Very fine tannins and oak completely shut down fruit. Well crafted.

Ten Men – Shiraz – – 2008 (17.8). Complex and dense. The colour is almost impenetrable. Dark forest fruits, with a hint of earth and tar. Spice and cedar add interest. Complex and dense, the fruit is restrained. The licorice and tar add to the finish. Will evolve. (From the Yarra Valley).

Deepwoods – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Ivory – 2010 (17.6). Balanced and attractive fruit. Good attack and complex fruit, but the middle palate is quite suppressed. Should open up with a year in the bottle. There is good mouth-feel, and plenty of tangy fruit on the finish.

Castle rock – Pinot – 2009 (17.5). Big glass full of earthy aromas to start. Freshens with air, showing cherry and plum fruit. The palate has cherry, spice and some textural wine-making inputs. Not so complex, but easy to like, the souring finish adds interest.

Alkoomi – Riesling – 2009 (17). Quite floral and fresh. There is a floral soap/talc aroma. Supple and soft, yet with a fine acidity providing the back bone. Has ability to develop.

Chapel Hill – Shiraz – Parson’s Nose – 2009 (17). Classic confectionary Mclaren Vale fruit. Opens up to show some sour plum notes. Attractive red fruits on the palate with licorice and a touch of dried herbs to close. Excellent value.

Chapel Hill – Tempranillo – il Vescovo – 2009 (17). Wow, a riot of vibrant fruit. Plums, blackcurrant and spice all add to make an excellent drinking wine. Excellent value at under $20. Grenache based.

Kingston – Cabernet – 2008 (17). Closed. Has red fruit, currants and cedary oak. Succulent and juicy in a modern style. Builds complexity in the mouth and should develop over 5 years. Value.

Kingston – Shiraz – 2009 (17). Vibrant but slightly medicinal fruit characters. The palate is big and powerful, but the tannins shut down the fruit. A big blokes red. Not my style, but an impressive wine for the price.

Millsreef – Sauvignon Blanc – Reserve – 2010 (17). Floral and fresh, Tropical and grassy notes on the nose. Sherbet and musk fruit with a fresh acidity. Not quite together on the finish yet.

Ten Men – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). They tried really hard with this wine, using all available winemakers’ inputs. Complex nose with barrel-worked and lees characters. Minerals and curry leaf too. The palate is very long and quite complex. There is a touch more residual sugar than I expected. 100% barrel aged.

Castle rock – Shiraz – 2008 (16.9). A touch earthy and with a whiff of dried herbs. Raspberry fruit on the palate in an easy drinking style. A lighter style.

Bird in Hand – Cabernet – 2008 (16.5). Lovely dense fruit on the nose. Wow, this is a big wine. Menthol, cedar and very ripe fruit. A bit to shiraz-like for me, but if you like a big red, then this is for you.

Bird in Hand – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.3). Floral and very pretty. Some confectionary characters that tend towards cough lollies.

Riesling and Pinot New Release

5 July 2010

Reviewed

Richardson – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.8). Complex dark fruits including cherry and plum. Cedary oak adds complexity but does not dominate. Good fruit here. Concentrated and dense. The texture and length are highlights. Will evolve.

Angove – Riesling – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.7). From the Clare Valley. More alive than some here. Opens with citrus zest, grapefruit and lime juice. The palate is flooded with lovely limey fruit. The texture in the middle palate is good and the finish is balanced. Acid builds to add focus. A very good wine.

Dog Point – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). Fragrant and perfumed, with red fruits, cherry and blackcurrant all combined with a touch of cedar in an attractive package. The palate has serious, layered fruit and the wine is well made. Texture and length are the highlights. Leave it for a few years if you can resist drinking it, and be rewarded. NB. I was on my own in recommending this.

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Closed. Fine acid dominates fruit right now. Some lemon and musk/spice on a palate that develops and builds. Germanic in style, with a touch of fruit and sugar sweetness.

Lamont’s – Riesling – 2009 (17). Restrained at the moment. Steely and fine on the palate, there is minerals and fine acid to carry the finish. Very long and develops. Clearly superior.

Wynns – Riesling – 2009 (16.8). Restrained and taught on the nose. There is almost a touch of spritz on the palate from the acid and dissolved CO2. Very tight and fine, the acid is beautifully balanced. This is very young and sure to age well, (and score higher points in the future).

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2009 (16.7). Not so overt on the nose, but a touch of lemon sherbert and perfume. Round, soft, balanced and with good acidity to close. A touch of sweetness makes it easy to drink.

MadFish – Pinot Noir – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This really opened up with air. Sweet cherry fruit combine with spice and a touch of perfume. Whilst the palate is long, this is far too young. (Received more support from the rest of the panel).

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2009 (16). Floral and fresh nose. Floral with lime juice running through the palate. A touch of caramel is a bit out of place.

Alternative Varietal Wines

1 July 2010

This week’s new release tasting provided the opportunity to look through all the non-mainstream wines that have come through over the last few weeks. There was a solid bracket of tempranillo, plus some other interesting wines that offered real drinking pleasure.

The Butchers Block red blend from Turkey Flat is another excellent red from the 2008 vintage. I also really enjoyed its sister wine, The Butchers Block white blend. This is an impressive wine that will complement a variety of foods.

The third wine that caught our attention was the tempranillo from Mount Avoca. Unlike a couple of wines here, there was proper varietal definition to the wine with excellent fruit quality and wine-making.

Reviewed

Turkey Flat – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – Butchers Block – 2008 (18+). Dense yet sweet fruit to open. Plums to the fore on the palate with Ribina and redcurrant too. Driven by fresh, juicy fruit characters, the finish is carried by the acid rather than tannins. Excellent drinking over the next 5 years, but there is enough structure to reward cellaring.

Mount Avoca – Tempranillo – 2008 (18). Quite dense but more herbal and savoury than some. Cough mixture, spice and cherry all vie with the plumy fruit on the palate. A lovely mouth-watering finish adds life. The chewy tannins will evolve and help keep everything in check. A very good wine indeed.

Turkey Flat – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – Butchers Block – 2009 (17.3). Quite aromatic, yet still possessing some structure and texture. Lovely mouth-feel, this is creamy, complex and lemony. Barrel ferment/maturation characters add texture and complexity to what is an excellent wine.

Finca de Arantei – Albarino – 2008 (16.9). Creamy fruit on the nose, with apricot and lychee. These characters follow through on the palate with lovely fresh acid and more tropical fruits. Good length and a touch of viscosity add to the appeal. Good drinking.

Stella Bella – Tempranillo/Blend – Skuttlebutt – Otro Vino – 2007 (16.9). Has more of the minty fruit characters, but backed up by fleshy, ripe fruit. Think plum, raspberry and a touch of blackcurrant, with cedar and spice. The palate is flooded by masses of fresh fruit, and has an easy drinking finish. Coffee and toffee to close.

MadFish – Tempranillo – Gold Turtle – 2008 (16.8). Really deep smelling. Crisp cherry fruit with tar and leather too. The palate is true to variety with cherry/plum and strawberry fruit characters. Not complex, but quite long with dusty tannins to close. Worth a try.

Stella Bella – Tempranillo – 2007 (16.8). Wow. Masses of lifted, ripe fruit on the nose. A big wine with vanillin and cedar overtones. The palate is more restrained than expected, with menthol, tobacco, leather, cinnamon and mouth-coating fine tannins. An impressive wine, but does this accurately reflect the variety?

Willow Bridge – Tempranillo – Solana – 2008 (16.7). Very new world. Spotlessly clean with a touch of vanillin oak to open. The palate is vibrant and plush with mouth-filling fruit and good texture. Hints at the variety with dusty/chewy tannins to close. A well made wine that will appeal to shiraz drinkers.

Angove – Tempranillo/Shiraz – Nine Vines – 2007 (16.6). Savoury and interesting. The palate is full of maraschino cherries and fresh acid. Not complex, but a refreshing wine that would go well with a bowl of pasta.

Stella Bella – Sangiovese/Cabernet – 2007 (16.5). Earthy, savoury, herbal and cool fruit characters on the nose. Minty fruit is the main flavour on the palate, and while the length is good, it is quite angular and lean.

Angove – Moscato – Nine Vines – 2010 (16.5). Musk and grapefruit. Spice and fun. Fresh and sweet, this is great Sunday afternoon quaffing. Not complicated but satisfying. One panellist felt this could have been more grapey, but it is hard to argue with the value.

Wines Worth Cellaring

Last Sunday Tasting Group

25 April 2010

Regular readers will know that I really value this group. They are a great group of people whom are extremely generous. So when Loren White suggested that we look at currently available reds that are worth cellaring, my mind went into overdrive. Barossa shiraz, Margaret River cabernet, Yarra Valley pinot, the options were endless.

In the end, I settled on a pair of 5th Growth Bordeauxs from 2006. These are in store now (Vintage Cellars have some stocks still), and 2006 is a typical year.

There were some sensational wines, and the 2005 Mosswood was a treat. The notes are a bit sparse as, although this was a blind tasting, the wines deserved to be drunk, not tipped out!

Tasted

Louis Michel & Fils – Chablis – Les Clos – Grand Cru – 2003 (18.2). Wow, this is a serious wine. Very Burgundian nose with a creamy textured nose and a touch of peach fruit characters. The palate is long, tight and rich.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2006 (17.7). This is a big wine. Much richer fruit that is super ripe. Great texture and mouth-feel. Yes, the oak is apparent but, no, it does not overwhelm the fruit. Impressive wine that manages to balance the ripe fruit and creamy oak very well. (Received strong support from most present).

Marchand and Burch – Pinot Noir – Gibraltar Rock – 2008 (17.9). Very perfumed and really pretty. There is a touch of orange rind on what is a very pretty nose. Whilst closed at first, the pretty fruit continues on the palate in the cherry spectrum. This builds in the mouth.

Domaine Des Lises – Crozes Hermitage – 2007 (18.2). The nose displays firm, meaty and earthy fruit, with an undercurrent of fresh flowers. The palate is quite special. Great fruit is complemented by souring acidity that keeps things fresh. There are also very fine tannins on a long finish. Flavours include mocha, cherry, tar and even lavender. Good value at under $50.

Lindermans – Cabernet Sauvignon – St George – 1996 (18.5). Ripe fruit, with camphor and subtle oak complexity. There are some regional minty characters, but the fruit is perfectly ripe. The palate has powerful fruit, is structured, is very long and displays excellent balance. Great texture and mouth-feel.

Orlando – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jacaranda Ridge – 1996 (18). Richer than the St George, and very seductive. There is licorice, spice and generous fruit on a palate that is long, fine and seamless.

Haut Bages Liberal – Cabernet Blend – Pauliac 5th Growth – 2006 (17.8). Quite closed on the nose. This is complex and shows some cedary oak and is very structured. The palate is lean and very structured. It is long and lean, but builds.

Haut Batailley – Cabernet Blend – Pauliac 5th Growth – 2006 (18.3). More forward and a touch of plummy fruit. There are quite dusty fruit characters at first, but really opens up with vibrant fruit. There is plenty of structure that guarantees a bright future.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18.7). Superb fruit that is ripe and fleshy, yet displays complex characters and fine oak. The palate is long, ripe, structured and dense, with cedary oak on the back palate. Will improve for 10+ years and last for many more.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 (18). Minty cabernet fruit that is classically Margaret River. The palate is ripe and long. This is the best wine that I have seen under this label and should be available from the winery.

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – 2008 (18.4). Stunning nose on this. Briary fruit with tar and violets. Some oak in support. The palate is quite grippy and firm with dense fruit (Satsuma plum) and great length. Tremendous value at $25.

Syrahmi – Shiraz – Maelstrom – 2008 (17). Living life on the edge, this is a challenging wine that will appeal to those who like their wines a little funky.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Black Label – 2006 (17.5/18). A big, dense and chewy wine with chocolate fruit and a touch of mint. Started out quite closed though. This really opened up and the quality fruit built significantly. It is a bit tough now, but the patient will be rewarded.

Seppelts – Shiraz – Mt Ida – 2005 (17.5). There is a whole lot going on here. Quite a funky wine on the nose. The palate is more mainstream with plush plum/chocolate fruit and a very complex finish. Needs time.

Tardieu-Laurent – Cotes du Rhone – Les Becs Fins – 2007 (18.5). Fragrant and floral nose. In fact it is really quite perfumed. The palate is complex yet retains freshness. There is plum, spice, fine tannins and real length, with a souring finish that adds freshness. Should be excellent value.

Coursodon – Shiraz – St Joseph – Silice – 2006 (17.8). The nose is quite closed yet the palate displays ripe fruit. Pepper, spice, licorice and very fine tannins all contribute to a high quality palate. Morish, and will score better in a few years.