Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Hardys – New Release

Reviewed: 4th August 2012

Paul Lapsley, the senior winemaker at Hardys was in town this week to show off a cross-section of his newest release wines. The wines were fantastic.

Despite the size of Hardys and associated wineries (Houghton, Amberly etc.), there was a clear house-style in evidence. The best wines all showed remarkable restraint, balance and elegance. Refinement is the key here and the result is superb.

For me, the bargain of the range was the Siegersdorf riesling. Absolutely delicious yet capable of aging for some time. The surprise for me was the Eileen Hardy pinot noir. A wine full of life and a great example of the style. In a superb line up, the Thomas Hardy was, ultimately, my favourite. Superb stuff.

NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Hardys – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Sir James – 2007 (17.5). Very fine mousse on this. There is a complex nose that has lemon and red fruits over lees and autolysis notes. The balance on the palate is excellent, with the acidity deftly balancing the dosage. The length is excellent and the finish is clean and drying, with very good palate feel. This is a blend of Yarra Valley and Tasmanian fruit. The wine spent four years on lees and went though 100% malo-lactic fermentation.

Hardys – Riesling – Siegersdorf – 2012 (17.7). Lovely, though delicate limey fruit that has floral highlights. Perfume and almost musk characters follow on the palate. Seamless, fine, long, intense and sublime, this is totally delicious, but is worthy of a bit of bottle age. Lacks the concentration/acidity of the greatest, but this is a cracking wine to drink now and a bargain to boot.

Hardys – Riesling – HRB/D650 – 2011 (18). More steely and taut than the Siegersdorf. Stony minerality and a suggestion of lime teases the nose. The palate is tight and restrained. This is not austere, it is very shy. This wine will evolve and improve for many years and hold for many more.

Hardys – Chardonnay – Nottage Hill – 2011 (16.3). Smells like chardonnay, tastes like chardonnay. A remarkable wine for the price, this has reasonable quality fruit that has been expertly made. Even the hint of oak works well.

Hardys – Chardonnay – HRB/D651 – 2010 (17.8). Lovely nose with delicate, peachy fruit over complex, lees, barrel ferment and oak influences. The palate is complex, long, fine and elegant. The balance and texture are a highlight. This is a very elegant style that has great appeal, but I would like to leave it for a few years to show its best. A blend of fruit from Pemberton and the Yarra Valley.

Hardys – Chardonnay – Eileen Hardy – 2010 (18/18.5). This is a superb wine. Complex, refined, balanced and extraordinarily fine. The balance between the oak and fruit is superb. The subtlety on display means that 3 – 5 years would only help this to flesh out. The high quality oak has been well judged and the length is a highlight. Deserves its reputation as one of Australia’s finest.

Hardys – Pinot Noir – Eileen Hardy – 2010 (18). Lovely fragrant fruit that has cherry and berry fruit. This is a very appealing wine. Excellent quality fruit that has been massaged expertly. The mouth-feel is excellent while the finish is long and savoury. An excellent wine with life, energy and drive. Deserves the Eileen Hardy name. (Made from MV6 clone and had partial whole bunch fermentation and 25% new oak).

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hardy – 2010 (18.5). Wow, I like this. Another elegant and refined wine with real class. This is tight and restrained, but the balance and texture is superb. The perfectly ripe fruit has been given royal treatment. The balance makes this near seamless in the mouth. Gorgeous fruit, expertly handled.

Hardys – Shiraz – HRB/D646 – 2008 (17.7). Lovely nose here. The refinement and balance really stand out. The palate is flooded by ripe fruit, though the finish is quite tight, lean and savoury. Really long in the palate, the fruit, oak and tannins meld really well. This just needs a few years for the fruit to fully express itself.

Hardys – Shiraz – Eileen Hardy – 2007 (18.3). Lovely fruit, though this is a touch leaner than other vintages. Again, balance and refinement are the key to this wine. Delicate aniseed and coffee over subtle black fruits and hints of forest floor. This builds in the glass and gets really interesting. As with all the wines under the Eileen Hardy banner, the tannin management is superb! The length on the finish is exceptional.

Vintage Cellars – French Tasting

Reviewed: 16 July 2012

Here are my highlights from a recent tasting put on by Paul Stephenson at the Shenton Park store.

Reviewed

Pierre Gimmonet – Crus 1er Cru – NV (17.3). Lovely nose that has complex, yeast and autolysis nose. The palate is quite drying, but there is a degree of richness that is very attractive. Not as dense as some, this is a good aperitif style.

Henry Pelle – Sancerre – La Croix Au Garde – 2010 (17.5). This is quite fresh, with lifted fruit. Quite linear, but builds richness and complexity on the palate. Hints of lanolin, apricot, lots of minerals and hints of spice. This really opens up with air. A great alternative to New Zealand sauvignon blanc.

Saint Cosme – Shiraz – Cotes du Rhone – 2009 (17). Surprisingly rich and complex for a Cote du Rhone. Pretty, perfumed fruit with plenty of pepper. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with spicy fruit and slightly grippy tannins. Quite good length, with enough acid to carry the palate. No oak to speak of, it is unusual for a Cotes du Rhone to be 100% shiraz.

Saint Cosme – Grenache – Gigondas – 2009 (17.5). Lovely sweet fruit over sweet vanillin oak. The palate is grippy and the tannins are quite assertive. The tannins are quite fine though, so they should balance out with the fruit with a few years in the bottle. As it opens, the fruit becomes more floral on the nose and expressive on the palate, whilst the tannins come in to balance. Give it at least a few years to show its best. 100% Grenache.

Supermarket Specials

Reviewed: 1 March 2012

A couple of weeks ago, all the wines reviewed here were available at either Liquorland or Woolworths for $4.00 – $5.00 per bottle. I had to find out for my self if the wines were actually drinkable.

I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised.

Let me make one thing clear, these are not great wines. What they are is tremendous value. The De Bortoli shiraz/cabernet in particular is an absolute bargain. I would not hesitate in having a glass if it were offered to me.

NB. It is very important to get the exact wines mentioned here, as there is significant variation within each range.

Reviewed

De Bortoli – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Sacred Hill – 2010 (16.7). Quality fruit on the nose and palate. This is dense and textured, with mint over plummy fruit. Chewy tannins to close. This is a smart wine that has been very well made. Bargain!

Whispers – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). More structure here. The nose is subdued, but there is reasonable fruit quality. Slightly chewy textural components fill out the finish. Well made and interesting enough to make a reasonable mid-week drink.

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Sacred Hill – 2009 (16.2). Not much on the nose, but quite an attractive palate, with fresh berry fruit and a soft, lingering finish. There is a touch of oak to close and some menthol fruit develops.

Mc William’s – Shiraz/Merlot – Inheritance – 2010 (16.2). Another solid effort that combines reasonable fruit with very good handling. Length is good and the tannins are remarkably fine for a wine of this price. The flavours linger with plump fruit and a touch of candy.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Rawsons Retreat – 2010 (16). Attractive nose that shows red fruits, plum and spice. Bright fruit that is more primary, with savoury, almost sappy characters to close. A touch of oak too.

Warburn Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Gossips – 2011 (16.2). Tropical fruit and grassy notes. Lemony acid adds life. This is fresh, vibrant and a good drink to boot.

Hardys – Chardonnay – R&R – 2010 (16). Some peach on the nose. Peach fruit on the palate with a touch of viscosity and refreshing finish. Flavours linger and there is even a hint of oak. Commercial, but so what. You also get a one litre bottle!

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Rawsons Retreat – 2011 (16). Toasty oak and a touch of lees combine with fruit that is actually of reasonable quality. Not complex, but good length.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Rawsons Retreat – 2011 (16). Quite a savoury, old-fashioned nose. Relatively lean fruit, but the flavours linger on the finish.

Mc William’s – Riesling – Inheritance – 2010 (15.5). Fresh, sherbet-like nose of some interest. Good acidity and a touch of zest on the palate with good line and length. 3 bronze medals.

New Release Tasting

Fine Wine Wholesalers

Reviewed 14 October 2011

Matt Holden, the State Manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers popped in to show off some of his new releases. The highlight of which was the fantastic rieslings from Geoff Grosset.

The value wine of the tasting was the Echelon from Kingston Estate. A flagship wine at a bargain price.

Speaking of value, Lamont’s have some Italian wines at great prices. JJ is bringing them in directly and the wines reviewed below are available for $30 per bottle. To get a Barolo for this price is unheard off. To make the deal sweeter, ask for 13 to the dozen!

Reviewed

Grosset – Riesling – Springvale – 2011 (18.5). Lovely nose. This is floral and fragrant, with hints of lemon blossom. Steely characters dominate the palate, but this opens up to show fragrant talc and very fine acid/structure. The lemony fruit goes on and on. A superb wine that just got better and better in the glass. This is all class, but I would like to give it a few years. We drank this with a roast chicken for dinner and it was beautiful.

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2011 (18 – 18.5+). Wow. Pristine nose showing fresh lime juice. This has a degree of viscosity and almost a touch of phenolics, but the lovely lime fruit drives the palate forward. Much more approachable than some previous vintages and an excellent drink. This does, however, have superb structure and it will live for a long time.

Grosset – Riesling – Off Dry – 2011 (18). Lovely wine. Floral fruit and vibrant acidity. Really delicious in the mouth – a super wine. A touch oily to close, the length of fruit on the palate is a standout. The slight residual sugar is balanced by well judged acidity. Softer and more approachable than the previous two and my pick for current drinking.

Bird in Hand – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011. (16.8). Gooseberry, lantana and tropical fruit more typical of NZ than of the Adelaide Hills. Clean and fresh with more of the tropical notes on the palate. Smart wine with good persistence. Not overly complex.

Chapel Hill – Blend – Il Vescovo – 2011 (17). More reserved, but more interesting. Nutty, oily, textured and viscous. Savoury wine of some appeal that would suit food well.

Olssens – Pinot Noir – Nipple Hill – 2010 (17.4). More depth and structure here. Smart wine, with cherry and strawberry fruit, with savoury/sappy complexity underneath. Almost chewy, the finish is very good. Not a delicate wine, but one of much appeal. Well made, but straightforward.

Dominique Portet – Shiraz – Heathcote – 2008 (17.3). Dense fruit here. There is ripe plum notes, but no overripe/dead fruit characters. Pepper and spice over silky, supple fruit. Only medium bodied, but long and savoury finish.

Kingston Estate – Shiraz – Echelon – 2008 (18). A touch of menthol and cedar on the nose. The palate has pepper and spice to the max. Long and lean, the tannin structure is spot on. The oak is noticeable, but this will settle down. Fantastic fruit and great value.

Mario Marengo – Nebbiolo D’Alba – Valmaggiore – 2009 (17-5 – 18). They say these wines smell of tar and roses, and this has both. A lovely nose here. The palate is lovely. There are some ripe fruit characters, but the tar and floral notes come through in spades. This is long and savoury, though there is a degree of suppleness that is beguiling. Long and fine, this is a lovely wine.

Tenuta Di Capraia – Chianti Classico DOCG – Reserva 2007 (17.5). More depth to the nose. Hints of aniseed/licorice. The palate is finely structured and beautifully balanced. Excellent mouth feel and structure. Not a big wine, but all the better for it. A touch of savoury, medicinal flavours that add interest. Lively, fresh and well made. Good persistence.

Il Poggione – Brunello Di Montalcino – 2005 (17.9). Very savoury palate. Traditional style that is savoury, mouth-watering and leathery. This is all about texture and mouth-feel, with little in the way of primary fruit. Slightly chewy tannins to close. Long palate that demands aging or food. Long and dense, with deftly handled fruit.

Lamont’s Direct Imports

These wines are spectacular value. Both are available for $30 from Lamont’s. Mention this review and you may even get 13 to the dozen!

Salvapiana – Chianti Ruffino – 2008 (17 – 17.5). Limpid. Mot much on the nose, but the palate is a lovely blend of traditional characters and fresher fruit components. Savoury, medium bodied and medium weight.

Apartin – Barolo – 2006 (17.5 – 18). Lovely savoury aromas, but still with aniseed. Much more subdued and better balanced. Excellent structure and length. An excellent wine that is modern. I would like to see this again in a couple of months once it has settled down.

Turkey Flats

Reviewed – 11 October 2011

Christie Schulz, the proprietor of Turkey Flats was in town the other day to show off her current range of wines. I took the opportunity to catch up and try the range as I have been a fan for a long time.

The Schulz family have been growing grapes in the Barossa for over 150 years. Indeed, shiraz was planted on the property in 1846! In more recent times, the current generation moved from grape growers to winemakers, and have expanded the vineyard holdings in the process. All fruit used is estate grown.

This was not a blind tasting so, as always, take my points with a grain of salt.

These wines are a bargain! They represent the best of the Barossa, but at a fraction of the price of other celebrated producers.

Reviewed

Turkey Flats – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – Butcher’s Block – 2010 (17). A lovely nose of stonefruit and apricot nectar. This wine is medium bodied, though with enough savoury components to make it an excellent drink. The texture is a highlight.

Turkey Flats – Grenache/Shiraz/Carignan – Rose – 2011 (17.3). Fresh and vibrant, with bright red fruits and pretty rose water accents. The palate is juicy, succulent, savoury and long. The finish is refreshingly dry (5g/l residual sugar). One of my favourite Australian Roses.

Turkey Flats – Grenache – 2008 (17.5+). This has beautiful perfume on the nose. The palate is succulent and the fruit delicious. There are black fruits, chocolate, coffee and a touch of savoury oak. There are very fine tannins and a long finish. Perhaps a touch warm on the finish, but otherwise and excellent wine.

Turkey Flats – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – Butchers Block – 2009 (17.5+). I really liked this wine. It has a complex nose with coffee, chocolate and ripe red fruits. The palate is savoury and spicy, with real depth to the quality fruit. Chewy tannins to close make for an excellent food wine. Drink now or in ten years.

Turkey Flats – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18- 18.5). Lovely nose here. Yes, there are ripe red fruits, but the structure is superb. Mint, eucalypt, perfume and fragrant violets define the nose. The texture is spot on and the palate is dense and very long. This was a big surprise to me as it is an elegant wine that defies its warmer region origin. A great example of Barossa cabernet!

Turkey Flats – Shiraz – 2009 (18.5). Fragrant and spicy nose, this is still a touch reserved. The palate is tight and firm, but the depth of flavour is a revelation. Remarkably elegant and refined, this has superb mouth-feel and texture, and the length is spot on. The fruit for this wine came from vineyards in Bethany and Stonewell.

Picardy – New Release

Reviewed: 14 September 2011

I was pleased to be able to make it to the new release tasting put on by the Pannell Family. This was especially so because there were six vintages of Tete de Cuvee on tasting. My overall impression is that Picardy continues to evolve and mature as a maker and the wines have never been better. Bravo!

On a separate note, I had an interesting chat to Bill about Picardy’s continued use of corks. He assures me that since around 2005, the issues around cork taint have largely been resolved. I might explore this topic more at a later date.

As this was not a blind tasting, my points are a bit rubbery, hence the spread.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Lifted fruit on the nose. Think green pear with a touch of minerality. The palate is generous, round and balanced with hints of stonefruit. There is even a touch of creaminess to close.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Nice wine this. Forward, ripe fruit with nectarine and a touch of vanilla from the (quality) French oak. The texture of this wine is a highlight, though the oak needs to settle a touch. Give it a couple of years to blossom.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant and perfumed, with lovely gentle spice on the nose. This is really spicy on the palate. The fruit is just starting to open up and the palate has quite expressive fruit. Excellent length and texture, with black fruit in the cherry spectrum. I love the fact that this has none of the smoky bacon characters that Pemberton pinots can get.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2009 (18+). A very pretty wine! The nose is defined by fresh white pepper. The palate has more cracked white pepper with plenty of spice. This is elegant, refined and medium bodied, with excellent length and intensity. The wine really builds and has good mouth-feel. The tannins are silky and fine, while the oak only plays a supporting role.

Picardy – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2009 (17). The most approachable of the current batch of reds. Opens with ripe red fruits and a touch of plum. This is soft, round and balanced. Drink now or in five years.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 1999 (NR). Well developed, yet there is still a degree of freshness to the red fruits. The palate is mouth-filling, round and long, while the balance is spot on. A touch of smoky bacon to close. Drinking well now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2000 (NR). Quite developed and needs to be drunk up.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2002 (NR). Lovely complex nose displaying some funky, slightly feral aromas. The palate is long, complex and beautifully developed. My pick to drink now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2005 (NR). Much fresher, with bright red fruit. This is a lovely wine that, whilst starting to show developed characters, is still quite tight. Excellent length with some smoky notes to close.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Closed and tight, it is the mouth-feel that is the highlight of this wine. There are some vibrant fruit characters, precise structural components and excellent texture. A special wine.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Similar in style to the 2007, with a superb palate. The structure is spot on too. This is an easier wine to drink young than the ’07, but still deserves time in the cellar to show its best.

$5.00 Bargains

Reviewed 5 August 2011

I awoke this morning to news of further financial turmoil and a stock market that is taking a pounding. What better time to review some of the cheapest wines in the market.

I put this tasting together at short notice as Woolworths has all the wines reviewed on sale for $5.00 until Tuesday the 9th August. To be honest, I was not expecting much, but all the wines reviewed here are quite drinkable. They will never be great wines, but they are honest and affordable to most people.

The picks for me were the De Bortoli traminer/riesling and the Penfolds Rawson Retreat. Both are quite good drinks and remarkable value. The Seaview was also impressive. For value, the Hardys stands out because it is in a one litre bottle.

Reviewed

Seaview – Brut – NV (16). Pleasant wine. Fresh nose with hints of yeast and grape. Soft and round, with enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. The residual sugar on the finish is well judged and there is impressive creaminess. A good quaff.

McWilliam’s – Riesling – Inheritance – 2010 (16.3). Lemony fruit on the nose and the palate. Quite long and zesty. Refreshing, and with reasonable length.

De Bortoli – Traminer/Riesling – Sacred Hill – 2010 (16.7). Floral and aromatic nose that is quite appealing (Musk, and tropical fruit). Again, the palate is soft, round and generous with a delicious finish. Surprisingly long, this has excellent balance. A great match for a spicy pork curry. (What I had for dinner).

Hardys – Chardonnay – R&R – 2010 (16). This is a real surprise. It actually tastes like chardonnay, with some melon and stone-fruit characters. Reasonable length and texture, with gentle creaminess on the finish. One litre bottle means big value.

De Bortoli – Cabernet/Merlot – Sacred Hill – 2009 (16). Fresh and vibrant fruit. This has red fruits and plum and a touch of spice. Not complex, but there is reasonable length.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Rawsons Retreat – 2010 (16.5). Nothing wrong with this wine! Plum, blueberry and spice. The palate is soft, yet there is enough structure and length to make this a perfect mid-week quaff.

Xavier Bizot’s Selection

3 August 2011

Xavier Bizot has an illustrious pedigree when it comes to wine. His family owns Bollinger, and his father-in-law is Brian Croser of Petaluma fame.

Xavier was at Lamont’s in Cottesloe to showcase a cross-section of the wines that he distributes in Australia. The range consists of imported wines and the wines made by Brian Croser under the Tapanappa label. This is an idiosyncratic range, but there is an obvious focus on producing stylish, refined wines from carefully selected sites.

Please note that the majority (I think all) of the wines were sealed with a cork. Also, this was not a blind tasting, so my points are only preliminary.

A special thanks to John Jens and the team at Lamont’s. Not only was the function superbly run, it delivered extraordinary value!

Reviewed

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Pinot Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Dry and austere on the nose, though there are obvious varietal and regional characters. Think slate and a touch of mineral. There are floral hints on the palate, but this is all about texture. Rich, round, viscous and even a touch oily. The length is a standout, aided by a touch of residual sugar to flesh out the palate. Sat well alongside some scallops.

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Premier Cru – Burg – Single Vineyard – 2003 (17-18). Aromatic, even Sauternes like aromas. Powerful fruit notes with lychees, tropical fruits and a touch of rose. The palate is very textured and viscous, without the oiliness of the pinot blanc. This is a high impact, turbocharged wine of some charm. The botrytis component turns the dial up to 11! A wine to taste on its own perhaps. The wines from Deiss focus on the vineyard perhaps more than the grapevine. They are using numerous clones of the various grapes, but also blending different varieties (13 in this case) when producing their single vineyard wines.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2008 (18+). Tight, austere and elegant. There is creamy fruit on the nose, with lees and very fine oak highlights. Excellent palate that is expansive yet full of nervous energy. This is modern and very tight. The palate has some pineapple, melon and lemon fruit characters. Fine and elegant, with a tangy finish courtesy of the lemony acid.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2007 (17-18). Quite a different style to the 2008. The fruit was initially very subdued, with the medium toast oak providing the dominant flavours and aromas. This really opened up in the glass displaying powerful fruit that soaked up the oak. Very powerful and complex. Most people preferred this wine, though I would rather drink the 2008.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Anjou Villages – Sur Schistes – 2009 (17). Floral fruit, though the structural components are never far away. Savoury, sappy, long and juicy, this is an interesting wine that has seen no oak. From the Loire.

Ceretto – Barolo DOCG – Zonchera – 2007 (18+). This is a lovely wine. Cherry and savoury notes that are fine and balanced. The palate has plenty of tar, leather and spice. The mouth-feel is tight and restrained due to the (very fine and supple) tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy right now, but the balance is spot on. The length of the finish is a feature. Give it 5 – 10 years to open up a little.

Tapanappa – Merlot – Whalebone Vineyard – 2003 (17 – 17.5). Perfumed nose redolent of violets. The palate has cedar, plum and floral notes. The tannins are still remarkably firm, though they are supple enough to make this a good drink. Needs years more to show its best.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2006 (17 – 18). I struggled to understand this wine at first as it was very closed and tight. The sweet, ripe fruit really builds and the textured finish is fine and savoury, with a souring finish. Points awarded for potential.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2004 (18+). This wine had to compete with the aromas of a superb Wagyu steak. The fruit shows chocolate, leather and spice, with tight knit oak in support. This has lovely mouth-feel and excellent length. It is supple, textured and quite delicious. A quality wine!

Francois Lumpp – Givry AOC – Pied de Clou – 2009 (17). Quite shy, with delicate fruit. This has been well made. Sympathetic winemaking allows the fruit to shine, as the oak is only secondary and the tannins are nicely polished. Good short term drinking.

Domaine du Clos de Tart – Pinot Noir – 2008 (NR). How do you point a wine that is so unique. From a single monopole vineyard, Clos du Tart is the name of the winery, the vineyard AND the appellation. Created in the 12th century, the vineyard has only had three owners in its history. Destined to live for many years, this is hard to appraise now as the wine is very closed… Herbal, savoury and a touch stalky, this is tight, focused and very long. Spicy notes (clove and cinnamon) dominate the palate. The tannins impart a talcum powder like effect on the finish.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Chenin Blanc – Coteaux du Layon – Rouannieres – 2009 (17.7+). Fresh and vibrant nose with floral soap/talc aromas. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated. The palate is viscous, rich and oily, with ground almond and cashew nut textural components. There is 220grams/litre of residual sugar, though the refreshing acidity prevents this from getting too cloying in the mouth. Delicious.

New Release

Fine Wine Wholesaler

Reviewed: 8 March 2011

Matt Holden, the State Manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers put on a tasting to show the panel some of his current portfolio. With the likes of Mosswood, Grosset and Pierro in the portfolio, the wines were sure to be interesting.

Abigail from Zarephath Wines also popped in to show off their current range. I was interested to note that all of their wines have a few years in the bottle, which means that some of the ageing has been done for you. I thought the chardonnay and pinot noteworthy and have included them in the review below, although they were not technically part of the tasting.

A highlight of the tasting was a bracket of 2010 rieslings from Grosset, Mt Horrock and Xabregas. I did not review these here as I have previously recommended these wines. The same also applies to the 2008 Mosswood Cabernet. (They all pointed 18 – 18.7 previously).

Reviewed

Grosset – Chardonnay – Piccadilly – 2009 (18+). This is a powerful wine with complex wine-making inputs. Restrained and taught, this has a fabulous mouth-feel. The creamy oak is seamlessly integrated, though the fruit is held back right now. There is a hint of the oak toast on the finish along with match strike and a touch of curry leaf. A very good wine with real length of fruit flavour, great acid balance and quality oak.

Pierro – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Reserve – 2005 (18). Very closed and unyielding. The palate is powerful and very long. There is blackcurrant fruit with plum, hints of eucalypt, cedar and tobacco leaf to close. The length is outstanding as is the texture. Needs years to evolve but a superb wine.

Grosset – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17 – 18). The fruit is quite lifted on the nose, very pretty and quite floral. The palate has excellent length, but the wine is very closed. Becomes more expressive with air, showing powerful cherry fruit that is textured and mouth-filling. (I really need to see this again after being opened for a day or two to see how it evolves).

Chapel Hill – Shiraz – Vicar – 2008 (17.8). Now this is big! Lovely hue. The nose has masses of cherry, plum, spice, tar and licorice. This is layered and very dense. Very textured palate that is very long and really builds intensity. Very silky tannins coat the tongue. Not my style but an impressive wine all the same.

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Wilyabrup – 2010 (17.8). Quite complex, yet retains a fragrant edge. Tropical fruit to the fore, with gooseburry and grapefruit. Vanilla highlights come from the oak. Tight and refreshing palate that is very clean. Almost seamless transition in the mouth and the quality oak influence adds complexity. Give it a few years. This is a serious wine and one of the best SSB wines I can remember from Western Australia.

Zarephath – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.7). A rich, round and generous wine showing the benefit of a few years in bottle. There is plenty of peachy fruit and the finish is very creamy courtesy of the oak treatment. Excellent length on a wine that is ready to drink now. (Not tasted blind).

Mosswood – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). Peach and nectarine fruit, with minerals and a touch of flint. Pineapple fruit on the palate with quality oak that is a touch forward now. This will settle and integrate with a few years bottle aging. Quality fruit and wine-making, but this is a style that needs aging to show its best.

Zarephath – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). The nose has cherry fruit to the fore, with strawberry, tar and licorice to add interest. The palate is quite soft and round, with fine structure and good acidity to close. (Not tasted blind).

Mosswood – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.4) Fragrant cherry and spice aromas. There is a degree of complexity, and depth to the fruit. The palate is taught and restrained, but there is a degree of power underneath. The length is excellent, but this needs 5 years to open up and start to show its best. History suggests that this will blossom with a decade in the bottle.

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Hyland – 2009 (17.2). Fragrant, with pepper and spice to the fore and a density of fruit that is very appealing. Concentrated fruit on the palate, with lots of pepper and savory, spicy notes. Good concentration and length. Smart wine with herbal notes to close. Value.

New Release

Reviewed 5 April 2011

An interesting tasting with some quite diverse wine styles. The pinots mentioned are all good wines, though the style varies from the lighter Stoniers to the Penfolds Cellar Reserve, which is closer to a dry red in style. In their own way, all are good value.

With the whites, the Juniper Estate semillon is a quality wine that offers an interesting alternative to the grassy semillon blends we see from the region. This wine has more in common with quality chardonnay than a fresh and fruity white.

Reviewed

Henschke – Pinot Noir – Giles 2009 (17.5/18). Quite savoury fruit characters on the nose with some gamey/sappy notes. There is a lovely spice to the fruit on the palate. The acid balance is spot on and the textural components are complimented by very fine tannins. This really hit its straps after a couple of days on the tasting bench. A good each way bet.

Penfolds – Pinot Noir – Cellar Reserve – 2008 (17.7). Lovely perfume here. Ripe red fruits over strawberries. There are also earthy notes with a touch of sandalwood and fragrant spice too. The palate is forward, and the bright fruit needs to settle into the textural components. This is a big wine, with some charred oak characters. A wine to watch.

Penfolds – Pinot Noir – Bin 23 – 2010 (17.6). Deep and vibrant colour. Powerful wine with cherry and spice over leather and earthy notes. This has all the usual pinot characters, though you would never call this a delicate wine. The palate is dense and velvety with some cedar showing through. The complex finish is very long and fine, with excellent texture. The grainy oak needs to settle down a touch before this starts to show its best.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5). More forward cherry fruit compared to some. Clear and precise nose that is very clean. There is fresh fruit on the palate with a slightly sappy, sour cherry finish that is refreshing. Not as complex as the others listed, but there is quality fruit and the wine is well made. Perhaps the most authentic pinot here, and certainly good value.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2009 (17.4). This took me by surprise, as the style is totally different. A serious wine that has been worked in the winery. The lemony fruit is complemented by fine vanillin oak. The lees contact has added a creamy component. The palate is rich and textured, though it really needs a year or two to settle down. Fume style.

Deviation Road – Pinot Gri – 2010 (17). Fresh and vibrant, with tropical fruit and passionfruit. There is also a touch of quince paste. The palate is fuller than the other whites here, with just a touch of viscosity. The finish is long and fine, with excellent balance. The length is a standout. A well made wine that is good drinking now.

Cumulus Wines – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Rolling – 2010 (16.7). Restrained tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and vibrant, with a surprisingly soft finish. Whilst this is an easy drinking style, the quality of the fruit is evident in the glass.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2010 (16.7). A soft and generous nose with very pleasant aromatics. The palate continues the theme, with fine talc on the close. A fairly neutral wine that opened up over a couple of days.

Geoff Weaver – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.5). More interest here. Vibrant and mouth-filling fruit. Juicy, almost succulent fruit with good acid balance and length. Refreshing, yet with enough going on to make for interesting drinking.

The Alchemists – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (16.4). Good fruit here. Quite a complex nose with lanolin, fragrant talc and gooseberry notes. The palate is balanced and round. Not overly complex, but pleasant drinking.