Category Archives: Pinot Noir – Wine Reviews

Caledonia Australis

10th May 2015

The South Gippsland Wine Company is the parent company for Caledonia Australis and Mount Macleod wines.

The vineyards that make up the estate started life as a project to supply Bass Philip Winery with fruit grown in close-planted vineyards in the early 1990s. In 2008/2009, Mark Matthews purchased the vineyards and then the winery/brands.

The focus here is on the Burgundian varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Mount Macleod being the more approachable (and less expensive) brand.

Mark was in town a little while ago to show the current releases. These were predominantly from the 2012 vintage, which turned out to be a good year. There was delayed flowering, but the weather held to allow for picking of excellent quality grapes in April. Given that many other regions harvested in February that year, it demonstrates the cool climate nature of the region.

The wines were uniformly good to very good. The Mount Macleod represents good value early drinking. It is my view, however, that it is worth paying a little extra for the Caledonia Australis range. These wines are not Burgundies, but they are fine examples of good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Given the discount available from the website, these wines represent very good value!

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so the usual caveats apply to my points.

Reviewed

Mount Macleod – Chardonnay – 2012 (17 – 17.5). Leaner fruit on the nose; this is quite fine and elegant. The palate has spice and almond meal characters and has a degree of viscosity in the way it coats the mouth. The fine, crisp acidity carries the near seamless finish. (RRP $26: $18 from the winery).

Caledonia Australis – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.5 – 18). Compared to the Mount Macleod, there is more intensity to the fruit here on both the nose and palate. Peach, apricot, citrus and grapefruit are apparent, whilst the finish is long and savoury. There is lovely line and length here with some pineapple, cashew nut and mineral notes to close. (RRP $36: contact winery for pricing).

Mount Macleod – Pinot Noir – 2013 (17.5). Bright, fresh cherry fruit to the fore, with savoury notes adding interest. The palate has spice characters and decent texture, with a savoury lift. Whilst it is not overly dense, it is delicious and succulent. Acidity to close keeps thing fresh. Great value (RRP $26: $18 from the winery).

Caledonia Australis – Pinot Noir – 2012 (18). Like the Chardonnay, there is greater density to the fruit apparent here. Cherry, savoury spice, earthy notes and restrained oak all gel into a long, savoury, almost ethereal palate. Fine and tight, this is excellent. The souring tannins and acid add life, ensuring longevity. Balanced but needs time. (RRP $36: $28 from the winery).

Pinot Noir – March 2015

13th March 2015

The surprise of this tasting was the Trapeze Pinot Noir. This is made by Brian Conway at Izway (a Barossa Shiraz & Grenache specialist) using Yarra Valley fruit. This is an affordable, great drinking Pinot.

Reviewed

Peay – Pinot Noir – 2012 (18). Forest floor aromas over strawberry fruit. The palate is fleshy, yet there is decent tannins and oak bringing focus to the finish. Deceptively powerful, this is a richer style that will have many fans. From the Sonoma Coast.

Greywacke – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18). (RRP $45). Lovely Pinot fruit on the nose. This has red berries, souring cherry and earthy notes. In the mouth, the fruit coats the tongue, with the cherry-like acidity and fine tannins that build on the close. A superb drink now or any time over the next 5 years.

Trapeze – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.8). Pretty, fragrant and perfumed. The palate is light, yet full of ripe summer fruits. This is quite a serious effort, with depth and structure showing through on the finish. The sappy/savoury notes add complexity (I wonder if this has had partial whole bunch fermentation). The length and persistence are note-worthy. A delight now or in 5 years, this is a relative bargain. (RRP $28).

Yerring Station – Pinot Noir – Village – 2012 (17.7). Another lovely wine that is immediately attractive and approachable. Supple red fruits with a hint of earthy complexity. Excellent fruit length and persistence combine with refreshing acidity on the close to add life and interest. Great value current drinking.

New Release – December 2014

Reviewed: 20th December 2014

This was my first opportunity to try the wines of Tolpuddle. The Tolpuddle vineyard in Tasmania has been supplying fruit to some of Australia’s best chardonnays and pinots for a number of years. A recent change in ownership however (Shaw & Smith) has seen some wine made under their own label.

Reviewed

Louis Latour – Chardonnay – Macon – Villages – Chamaroy – 2012 (16.8). Light and fresh nose, but with subtle minerality sitting under the fruit. Quite viscous and with good length and mouth feel, but not overly deep. A simple, entry level White Burgundy, but an enjoyable drink. (RRP $20).

Felton Road – Chardonnay – Bannockburn – 2013 (17.9). Lovely nose to this wine with melon and spice over creamy, textural notes. The palate is long and supple, with the restrained oak and gentle lees work just keeping the fruit in check at present. Fine and elegant, this will evolve over the next 5 years. (RRP $50).

Tolpuddle – Chardonnay -2013 (17.8). Muted fruit on the nose (grapefruit and pineapple). The palate shows a leaner, racy style that lacks a bit of generosity now in part due to the very crisp acidity. That said, the potential is obvious. A tightly wound wine that is sure to score higher points once it has time to settle down (RRP $70).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2013 (18.5+). Aromas of minerals and spice over complex fruit and winemaking notes. The palate is superb, with curry leaf minerality over peach, nectarine, grapefruit and struck match notes. The length and persistence are outstanding, with a near seamless palate transition. Almost chewy, the nutty, complex fruit really builds on the finish. (RRP $60).

Pinot Noir

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2013 (18.5). (RRP $79). Lovely fruit on the nose, with cherry, strawberry, savoury plum and plenty of spice. The palate has tar, clove and aniseed hints to close. This is concentrated and powerful, though it has not quite come together as yet. Another year will see the high quality fruit fill out.

Tolpuddle – Pinot Noir – 2013 (18.3). Richer and rounder fruit, though the acidity on the finish is initially confronting. With air, the fragrant fruit really builds and this settles down and evolves into a dense, powerful wine of significant charm. Needs a year or two to start drinking well, but 5 – 10 years may be even better. (RRP $85).

Value Pinot Noir?

20th August 2014

The term Value Pinot Noir has historically been somewhat of an oxymoron. Notoriously difficult to produce and very site specific, Pinot Noir has typically been expensive.

In recent years, wines like De Bortoli’s Windy Peak Pinot Noir have redefined what can be purchased for (well under) $20.

The highlight of this tasting was the 2012 Ables Tempest. From a great year, this is the second wine of Heemskerk and really impressed the panel. That this wine will be available for less than $20 makes it a screaming bargain.

Reviewed

Heemskerk – Pinot Noir – Ables Tempest – 2012 (17.9). A more masculine style. There is both depth and power to the fruit, but this is in no-way overblown. The palate is long and persistent, with hints of oak adding complexity. Will take well to short-term cellaring.

Leeuwin Estate – SBS – Siblings – 2013 (17). Whilst this might be Leeuwin Estate’s entry-level wine, it is quite an impressive package. The nose is fresh, with herbaceous/grassy notes, though it is initially muted. This wine has seen partial barrel ferment (40%) which boosts the textural components, especially on the palate and there is decent length of flavours. Remarkably, this was better the next day, so saving it till next summer may pay dividends.

Angove – Rosé, – Grenache/Shiraz– Nine Vines – 2014 (16.5). The tag on the bottle claims that this is Australia’s most popular rosé, and it is easy to like this wine. The colour is a pretty/vibrant pink and the fruit is fresh and juicy. The relatively dry finish makes this very easy to drink as an everyday quaff.

Angus The Bull – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.4). This is actually quite a serious wine. There are aromas of cedar and spice, hints of licorice and blackcurrant fruit. The palate displays cooler region fruit that is dense and taut. Good acidity, supple oak and silky tannins round out the package. Only medium weight, but works a treat. Whilst this wine will work well with a steak now, it is also capable of taking 5+ years in the cellar. From Central Victoria.

Le Cirque Wine Co – Shiraz – Whiz Bang – Barossa – 2013 (17 – 17.5). Delicious mouthful of sunny, ripe fruit, with enough structure and acidity to make this delicious drinking now. There is an attractive glycerol-like sheen to the palate. Good length and mouth-feel rounds out a very attractive package. Another cracking wine under this label. (RRP $16).

Singlefile – Shiraz – 2012 (18). Initially quite closed on the nose, though with air, develops vibrant fruit that is ripe and forward. There is also a lovely pepperiness. The precisely ripe fruit continues on the palate where it is gradually subsumed by the fruit/oak tannins. With air, this really builds depth and texture. Age worthy. (RRP $37).

Bannockburn – Current Release Pinot and Chardonnay

Reviewed: 3rd August 2013

Michael Glover, the winemaker at Bannockburn is a (self-proclaimed) very lucky man!  According to Michael, the quality of the fruit that comes from the Bannockburn vineyards is so exceptional, that it makes him look good.

I am the first to agree that the fruit that goes into the Bannockburn range is truly outstanding.  I am not so naive as to say, however, that the winemaker has not had a significant role in harnessing the quality fruit and transforming it in to a range of stunning wines.

One of the highlights of the tasting was to see the terroir of the vineyards expressed in each wine that we tried.  Michael is passionate about site expression and believes that this only happens when yields are very low.  I use the term terroir loosely, as for me, it is the intersection of the soil, the climate, the vines and, most importantly, the people who transform the grapes in to the finished product.

Michael’s fingerprints are all over these wines, but that is a very good thing.  There is a consistency across the entire range, where texture, complexity and depth are valued over power and where the winemaking inputs are supple and subtle.  Having said that, with the exception of sulphur, these wines are made without additions in the winery.

These are very high quality wines where the winemaking has allowed the fruit to truly express its sense of place, albeit in a very tight, age-worthy package.  Even the sauvignon blanc (a wine of great complexity) would benefit from three to five years in the cellar.

The two highlights of the tasting were both from the stellar 2010 vintage.  Both the “standard” chardonnay and the Stuart pinot noir are nothing short of spectacular.  The rest of the range is remarkably consistent and of very high quality.  In many ways my choices come down to personal preference, as these are all excellent wines.

Two caveats for the tasting:  Firstly, this was not a blind tasting and the winemaker was present.  Secondly, all the reds were sealed with natural cork.

Reviewed

Bannockburn – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.7).  This wine has a very complex, worked and powerful nose, with spice, struck-match and flint-like minerality.  The palate is dense and powerful, though surprisingly closed and restrained at present.  Lemony, long and fine, I would like to see this again in a year or two, as it is sure to age well for 5+ years.  100% barrel ferment in puncheons.  2/3 French, 1/3 Italian (made from acacia rather than oak).  The vines are 25 years old and have low yields (2kg/vine).  Aims to be uniquely Bannockburn!
(After 3 days on the tasting bench, this developed remarkably floral fruit aromas).

Bannockburn – Chardonnay – 2010 (18.5+).  Beautiful nose that stands out for its elegance and finesse, with hints of almond meal.  There is a delicate minerality running through both the nose and palate.  There is crisp stonefruit, with layers of creamy oak and delicate floral notes on the palate.  Very long, though this is restrained and a touch linear now.  Superb balance between the restrained fruit and quality oak.  With near seamless palate transition, this is a spectacular wine!  From 30-year-old vines, the wine spends 2 years on lees and has 100% malo-lactic fermentation.  It took 24 hours on the tasting bench for it to open up and show its best, but the result was memorable!

Bannockburn – Chardonnay – S R H – 2009 (18).  Richer and more developed, but yet retains the elegance of the standard release.  Fine and restrained, with seamless oak and very precise, focused acidity to close.  Mouth-feel and texture the key here.  Whilst I marginally preferred the focus and poise of the 2010 “standard” release, this is a remarkably fine wine.  Wait 5 years to start drinking.  ($77, only 100 cases made).

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.8).  Chewy, dense, textured, long, sappy and savoury.  This wine is not about primary fruit, it is about the textural experience.  There is, however lovely fruit underneath this, with spicy, dark cherry notes.  The silky finish brings it all together, but it needs years for the fruit to emerge from its cocoon.  Lovers of structured Burgundy will get a kick out of this wine.

The similarities to Nuit St George were remarkable, to the point that I had to open a bottle of 1er Cru Burgundy as a comparison.  The similarities were marked, though there was a touch more ripeness to the fruit of this wine.  2009 was a low yielding, tannic vintage, and the wine had 100% whole bunch fermentation.  12.5% alc. $53 rrp.

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Stuart – 2010 (18.5+).  In contrast to the structure of the 2009 pinot, this wine is seductive and totally gorgeous.  Initially, this is lighter in structure, while the fruit is more floral.  This is immediately approachable, yet has elegance, length and persistence.  The perfume flows from the palate back into the nose, boosting the enjoyment further.  Silky and very fine, though the structure and power really builds with time in the glass.

A delightful wine now or in five + years.  The ethereal notes that this wine offered up as it sat in the glass harked to the great wines from Chambolle Musigny.  (Named after the founder Stuart R Hooper.  $70rrp and a bargain).

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Serre – 2008 (18.5).  Gorgeous fruit on both the nose and palate, though this is cloaked in a shroud of restraint.  On the palate there is cherry, spice and a wonderful silky mouth-feel.  The long and savoury finish cries out for food.  Again, this is near seamless.  Amazing intensity with the proverbial peacock’s tail finish (the fruit really fans out and evolves, providing flavour and texture to the entire palate).

Using the comparisons to Burgundy again, this is more in the mould of Vosne Romanee.  The fruit for this wine comes from a separate, close-planted vineyard.  (9000 vines per hectare, average yield 500gm of fruit per vine, but can be as low as 250gm/vine).  $91rrp.

 

Pinot Noir – New Release

Pinot Noir – New Release

Reviewed: 23rd June 2013

A couple of interesting pinots from Dalrymple came in during the week, so I put together a small bracket to see how they came up. Dalrymple is a Tasmanian winery and the fruit for all three wines came from the Coal River region. The quality across the range was very high, with the wines offering an attractive blend of fruit and spice.

For me, the standard wine represents the best value ($35). There is a noticeable increase in sophistication with the Cottage Block ($45) and the Block CV90 ($55), but this comes at the expense of approachability today. Try all three and see for yourself.

Reviewed

Dalrymple – Pinot Noir – Cottage Block – 2011 (18+). Pretty, floral fruit on the nose. The palate is floral, but there is real persistence to the fruit and a surprising degree of depth. This is a very smart wine, with the cherry and spice characters from the fruit lingering for a very long time. Tannins and oak are very fine and complement the fruit well. A very finely crafted wine.

Dalrymple – Pinot Noir – Block CV90 – 2011 (18/18.5). A touch closed and reductive to start, but this wine has quality fruit and it has been deftly handled. The finish is slightly chewy at first, but with air, it builds depth and the fruit becomes more vibrant in the glass. The fine tannins suppress the finish slightly, so give this some air or a few years in the bottle.

Squitchy Lane – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18). The nose on this is very classy, showing a lovely blend of ripe fruits and more savoury characters. The palate is quite firm, with souring acid that sets this up well for food. Long and supple, this is the most food-friendly pinot here. The next day, this wine really hit its straps, showing depth and possessing a generosity of fruit that made it a joy to drink with a hearty seafood stew.

Dalrymple – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17.8). Pristine and focused fruit on the nose. The palate is supple, though quite linear at present. There is good depth to the fruit and the finish is very silky. The winemakers have worked very well with the fruit weight, as the oak is of high quality and sits behind the fruit. A very good Australian pinot that drinks well now.

 

Beaune and Beyond

Hosted by Phillip Rich at Lamont’s in Cottesloe

Reviewed: 3rd June 2013

I must admit that I had reservations about attending this tasting as I had spent the day working in Sydney and had flown in just in time to attend. The thought of a hot shower and warm bed was very appealing. I am so glad that I did attend though as it was a fantastic evening.

Phillip Rich was in town to showcase a range of wines that he imports in to Australia. Two things made the night so enjoyable. Firstly, the wines ranged from very good to spectacular. The red Burgundies from Hudelot Noellat in particular were nothing short of spectacular.

The other factor that made the night so enjoyable was our host. Phillip is a warm and engaging speaker. He shared his great knowledge with us in such a way that it felt like catching up with an old friend.

If you get the chance to attend one of his tastings in the future, jump at it. I am sure you will enjoy the experience as much as I did.

NB. This tasting comes with the usual caveats. It was not a blind tasting (and I had a lot of fun), so please use my points as a guide only. Wines are available in limited quantities from Lamont’s and other select independent retailers.

  • Tasted:        16
  • Reviewed:   11

Reviewed

Pierre Peters – Champagne – Chetillons – 2005 (18 – 18.5). A very impressive wine that balances delicate floral notes with complex autolysis characters (brioche, bread dough etc.). The palate is very subtle, showing balance and poise. Youthful and quite lean, this needs time in the bottle to really open up.  To get the most out of this wine now, try letting it warm up in the glass a little as this lets the pristine chardonnay fruit really shine.

Copain – Chardonnay – Tous Ensemble – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Delicate lemony fruit that is quite taut and linear at first. An elegant, modern style that opens up to show grapefruit and nectarine characters. The finish is elegant and quite seamless. Don’t serve to cold.

Copain – Chardonnay – Laureles – 2011 (17.5 – 18). Compared to the Tous Ensemble, there is a real step up in richness here. There is still the grapefruit and citrus notes, however the mouth-feel and texture are the real highlights. Finishes with lemon pith and precise minerals. A lovely drink.

Copain – Pinot Noir – Tous Ensemble – 2010 (17.5+). A lighter hue here. Lovely red fruits to the fore, with red cherries and lifted perfume. The palate is very pretty and has good texture and structure. Good length and intensity on the finish rounds out the package. A wine to enjoy now and, as such, represents quite good value

Copain – Pinot Noir – Kiser En Haut  – 2010 (18+). This wine still has the lovely perfume of the Tous Ensemble, though there is more depth and structure to the fruit and the mouth-feel is more textural. Whilst this is a lighter style compared to a NZ pinot, there is superb intensity, density and an elegant structure to the palate. A balanced and youthful wine that has intrinsic fruit power and is very age-worthy.

Copain – Pinot Noir – Kiser En Bas  – 2010 (18 – 18.5). This is a compelling wine that blends many of the characteristics of the previous two wines from Copain. Both the nose and palate display lovely perfumed fruit, silky mouth-feel, cherry fruit notes and fine oak handling/ lovely souring acid. A wine that balances fruit and structure expertly. A wine that can be drunk now or in 5 years.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2010 (18.5). Gorgeous nose that has sweet fruit that is balanced by complex cherry and spice aromas.  Real density and serious fruit weight is apparent on the palate. The oak is evident now, but complements the fruit very well. A delicious wine that offers a degree of generosity that only the new world seems to achieve. Put in to the tasting as a yardstick, and very nearly stole the show.

Hudelot Noëllat – Pinot Noir – Vosne Romanee – 2011 (18). In the glass, this wine has a lovely, vibrant colour. The nose is dense, earthy and weighty, yet retains a lovely perfumed character. The palate is supple, fragrant and spicy, the depth of the fruit evident in the texture and mouth-feel. With excellent length and wonderful balance, this wine actually represents good value at around $90!

Hudelot Noëllat – Pinot Noir – Beaumonts – 1er Cru – 2011(18.5+). This has a classic Burgundian nose that, like the Vosne, has fragrant, perfumed characters sitting atop the dense fruit. Opens up to show sappy sour cherry, spice and earthy notes. The palate here is spectacular, with superb fruit that is balanced, very long and near seamless. The structured nature of the finish suggests that this should continue to develop well in the bottle. Brilliant wine.

Hudelot Noëllat – Pinot Noir – Clos de Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2011 (18.7). Even more density to the colour here and the fruit is much more closed than the Les Beaumonts. Whilst this is fresh and supple, with almost new world richness to the fruit, the wine is dense, structured, powerful and tannic. A truly great wine, but one that needs 5 – 10 years in the cellar to start to express itself.

 

Ostler – Current Release

Reviewed: 25th April 2013

I was pleased to have the opportunity to meet with Jim Jerram from Ostler recently to try their current range of wines as well as several older Caroline’s pinot noirs.

Located in the cooler Northern Otago sub-district of Waitaki Valley,  the pinot vineyard was first planted in 2002. The relatively thin top soil, with limestone substrate was the key attraction to the producers when they purchased the land for the vineyard.

The pick of the wines was the 2010 Caroline’s pinot. A superb wine that is worthy of time in the cellar. The bargain though, and the one that I will recommend the strongest is the Blue House Vines pinot from 2011. Not overly complicated, but bright and delicious.

Reviewed

Ostler – Riesling – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Floral fruit on the nose, with subtle spice. The palate is textured and there is a degree of phenolic richness. Whilst there is noticeable sweetness, the excellent length and acid on the finish sets this apart, leaving the palate relatively dry to close. An interesting alternative to Australian rieslings. This has 10.6 g/l of residual sugar and is the 1st vintage from this vineyard (planted in 2008)

Ostler – Pinot Gris – Audrey’s – 2011 (17). Lovely floral notes here. This is an amalgam of Turkish delight, spice and phenolic texture. Quite a chewy finish adds interest, but the finish is a touch closed at first. The mid-palate is viscous and textured and this opens and develops richness in the glass. There is good acidity to close. A portion of this wine ferments in old oak.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Blue House Vines – 2011 (17). Lighter hue than the other pinots tasted here. Soft, fresh and vibrant, this has attractive, albeit uncomplicated fruit aromas. The fresh cherry fruit is the key feature on the palate, though there is enough structure and souring acidity to make this quite delicious. This is an early drinking style that will work really well with food now.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2010 (18+). More density to the fruit compared to the Blue House Vines. The nose is closed, but hints at potential. The palate is dense, structured, powerful, and chewy. The tannins and oak are present, but add texture and complexity rather than overt flavours. With air, this opens to show sweet red fruits and the structure really builds. Whilst this is a wine that needs time to show its best, the balance is spot on. The wine has new world fruit, but is not as fleshy as many Central Otago wines.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (17.5). Typical of the style, but from a cooler year. Perfumed, spiced, floral, red fruits on display. In the mouth, this is silky and supple, developing texture and body on the mid-palate. Lovely texture and mouth-feel, this is very good drinking now, but also has the potential to develop more texture and complexity. Fined and filtered which is not normal for the producer.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2006 (17.5). Very seductive nose! Silky and supple, with masses of red fruit on the palate. Textured and soft, the dusty tannins add to the long, fine, spicy finish. Excellent persistence. Very impressive given the age of the vines.

Pinot Noir and Friends

New Release Tasting

24 November 2010

Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.

With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.

The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.

Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.

Reviewed – Friends

Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.

Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.

Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.

Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.

Reviewed – Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!

Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.

Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.

Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.

Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.

Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.

Riesling and Pinot New Release

5 July 2010

Reviewed

Richardson – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.8). Complex dark fruits including cherry and plum. Cedary oak adds complexity but does not dominate. Good fruit here. Concentrated and dense. The texture and length are highlights. Will evolve.

Angove – Riesling – Vineyard Select – 2009 (17.7). From the Clare Valley. More alive than some here. Opens with citrus zest, grapefruit and lime juice. The palate is flooded with lovely limey fruit. The texture in the middle palate is good and the finish is balanced. Acid builds to add focus. A very good wine.

Dog Point – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). Fragrant and perfumed, with red fruits, cherry and blackcurrant all combined with a touch of cedar in an attractive package. The palate has serious, layered fruit and the wine is well made. Texture and length are the highlights. Leave it for a few years if you can resist drinking it, and be rewarded. NB. I was on my own in recommending this.

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2008 (17.5). Closed. Fine acid dominates fruit right now. Some lemon and musk/spice on a palate that develops and builds. Germanic in style, with a touch of fruit and sugar sweetness.

Lamont’s – Riesling – 2009 (17). Restrained at the moment. Steely and fine on the palate, there is minerals and fine acid to carry the finish. Very long and develops. Clearly superior.

Wynns – Riesling – 2009 (16.8). Restrained and taught on the nose. There is almost a touch of spritz on the palate from the acid and dissolved CO2. Very tight and fine, the acid is beautifully balanced. This is very young and sure to age well, (and score higher points in the future).

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2009 (16.7). Not so overt on the nose, but a touch of lemon sherbert and perfume. Round, soft, balanced and with good acidity to close. A touch of sweetness makes it easy to drink.

MadFish – Pinot Noir – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This really opened up with air. Sweet cherry fruit combine with spice and a touch of perfume. Whilst the palate is long, this is far too young. (Received more support from the rest of the panel).

Kalgan River – Riesling – 2009 (16). Floral and fresh nose. Floral with lime juice running through the palate. A touch of caramel is a bit out of place.