Reviewed: 11^th March 2014

Like many Australian’s my exposure to South African wines is very limited.  Whilst South Africa has a long history of producing fine wine, very limited amounts have made it to Australia.  This has often been at the cheaper end of the market.

Winestate Magazine recently hosted an extensive tasting of currently available wines for an up-coming review.  I took the opportunity to quickly taste through a wide variety of wines.

I was particularly interested in the Chenin Blancs.  They ranged in style from un-oaked to heavily oaked, with the lightly oaked wines of particular interest.

I have written previously that winemaking in South Africa ranges from rustic to very modern, and this tasting reinforced that view.  It also highlighted just how good value these wines can be (thanks to a very favourable exchange rate).

The majority of the wines were bottled under cork, with several of the bottles unfortunately showing unwanted characters.

The wines are not widely available, but Tuart Hill Liquor in Perth appears to have a good range.  Otherwise you can get in touch with one of the main importers AfriCape Wines (http://africapewines.com) or find one of the online retailers.

Reviewed

The Winery of Good Hope – Chenin Blanc – 2012 (16.8).  Light and fresh, with fresh citrus notes.  Decent length and texture, with a hint of spice to close.  ($12).

Ken Forrester Vineyards – Chenin Blanc – Old Vines Reserve – 2012 (17+).  Whilst the fruit is fresh and bright, this is a complex wine that has vanillin oak and barrel fermentation characters.  There is decent length on the finish, with a touch of phenolic grip that adds depth.

Stellenrust – Chenin Blanc – 48 – 2012 (17 – 17.5).  Oily and viscous, with a lovely almond meal character.  A complex, balanced wine.  ($37).

Jordan – Chenin Blanc – 2012 (17+/-).  Lemon and citrus notes, but the creamy oak and winemaker’s inputs are the main feature.  If you like a big, rich chardonnay, this is worth a try.

Old Vines – Chenin Blanc – The Bernard Series – 2012 (17.5+).  This wine reminded me of fine burgundy… only different.  Fine fruit has been married to quality oak.  Long and with minerality to close.

Klein Constantia – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17).  Very different to N.Z. SB. Textured, dry, creamy and long.  A food friendly style.

Kleine Zlaze – Shiraz – Family Reserve – 2009 (17.5).  Lovely shiraz fruit characters in a big, rich style.  Liquorice and spice complement the ripe fruit.  15% alcohol, but the fruit carries this easily.

Friedrich Laibach – The Founders Blend – 2011 (17.5).  An elegant red that is reminiscent of the wines of Bordeaux.  Long and lean, with fine tannins and mint/eucalyptus to close.

Reviewed: March 1, 2014

An excellent range of aromatic white wines, all of which offer the ability to be cellared for at least a few years or, in the case of the Cherubino and Singlefile, long term cellaring.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongurup – 2013 (18 – 18.5).  Bottled lime juice!  Excellent fruit that is very dense and powerful.  An attractive wine that has, perhaps, a little assertive acidity right now.  The palate is very long and fine, but needs time to show its best.  Will age gracefully, and pointed accordingly.  ($35).

Seppelt – Riesling – Drumborg Vineyard – 2013 (18+).  Delicate, restrained, fragrant and near seamless, until the vein of taut acidity cuts through the palate.  This is a lovely wine that combines finesse and balance, with fine acid balance.  Tremendous length, with the merest hint of residual sugar that adds to the finish.  Length, fragrant, long, softness, aromatics, will age superbly.  (The vineyard was planted in1964.  $40).

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2013 (18).  Restrained and elegant, with steely minerality.  This is a very fine/subtle wine, though there is no doubting the quality.  In the mouth, the wine is complete, though the fresh acidity cuts across the talc-like minerality and apple/citrus fruit.  Excellent length to close.  ($25).

Ad Hoc – Riesling – Wall Flower – 2013 (17.9).  Fragrant honeysuckle and jasmine over a steely core.  The palate is very fine and long.  Whilst there is ample acidity, this is supple and silky, with good fruit to close.  Lingering, with just a touch of phenolic richness.  Not as concentrated as the best from Larry Cherubino, but an excellent wine all the same.  ($21).

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – Pemberton – 2013 (17.5 – 18)  A complex nose that combines grassy fruit with barrel fermentation and lees characters.  The palate is flooded with lemony acid, though again, there are some complex winemaker’s inputs.  A smart wine that deserves some thought and decent food, rather than just quaffing.  ($35).

Rocky Gully – Riesling – 2013 (17.5).  Closed, with assertive acidity at first.  Underneath, there are lovely lime juice characters from the quality fruit.  Mouth-watering and very long.

Wynns – Riesling – 2012 (17.5).  A gentle wine that, whilst not as concentrated as some here, is long and satisfying.  Balanced, this is quite a delicate wine with fine acidity.  There are citrus notes and the potential to age well in the short to medium term.  Having said that, this is a good wine to drink now.  ($17).

Reviewed: February 14, 2014

The wines reviewed here are all worth a look.  If you love pinot, then the Shaw & Smith is an excellent wine.  If your budget is a little tight, then the Windy Peak is an authentic rendition at a bargain price.

For those of you that enjoyed the Whiz Bang shiraz, then the Duck Shoot pinot noir is the wine for you.  Made by the same team, this is a truly delicious wine that is a little richer and fuller than a typical pinot, but worthwhile all the same.

Reviewed

Shaw & Smith – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.5 – 18).  Limpid.  Lovely, red fruits to the fore with hints of strawberry and supple spicy notes.  Not that dense, but then again, does not need to be.  With air, the fruit really built depth and structure.  A delicious pinot that will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Le Cirque Wine Co – Pinot Noir – Duck Shoot – 2013 (17.2).  Deeper colour than the others reviewed here and weightier too.  This wine straddles the border between varietal pinot noir and dry red wine, but manages to fall on the right side.  That said, this is a supple wine that is round and gentle in the mouth.  Very easy to drink, with soft, plump, juicy fruit.  A good wine for those who have grown up on Australian shiraz.  ($16).

King Estate – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17.5).  Closed/restrained on the nose.  The palate is quite refined and elegant, to the point that you have to search to find the defining fruit characters.  That said, this is a lovely wine that has finesse and charm.  Opens to show cherry, spice and floral highlights.  The palate is finely textured, with souring fruit characters adding drive and intensity.  Will be a lovely drink over 3 – 5 years.

De Bortoli – Pinot Noir – Windy Peak – 2012 (17.5).  A smart wine that combines cherry fruit with subtle, savoury notes.  Good depth and intensity, though this is at the lighter end of the fruit spectrum.  Quite elegant, refined and delicious.  Here is a sub $20 pinot that is worth trying.  ($15)!

Reviewed: 7^th February 2014

In a line up of 25 red Burgundies, the wines of Emilie Geanet stood out for their sheer quality. Admittedly, they are not the cheapest wines available, but they are certainly worth looking for if you enjoy quality Burgundy.

Reviewed

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.4).  Pretty, perfumed fruit on the nose, but there is a degree of richness too with hints of cinnamon and apple.  The palate is chewy and just a little robust, with a dusty/chalky texture on the finish.  A feminine wine, with very good fruit quality and deft oak handling.  Needs a couple of years to settle.  ($90).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Cote De Nuit Villages – 2010 (17.5 – 18).  Very attractive nose that combines floral notes with gentle herbs and spice.  The palate is silky, supple, elegant and very long.  The mouth-feel really is a highlight with fine tannins framing the fruit.  An almost plush wine that provides immediate pleasure.  The oak use has added depth, but no overt characters.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Cote De Nuit Villages – 2011 (17.5+).  Almost new-world in style with pristine, ripe fruit.  Aromas tend to strawberry.  The palate is fresh and light, with a delicious, savoury twist to close.  Not overly dense, but a pretty wine that offers drinking pleasure.  The slightly sappy acid and spicy oak ensure that this will complement food well.  ($58).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – Les Evocolles – 2011 (17.8).  Very pretty wine that has vibrant/attractive fruit with supple, savoury/spicy undertones.  The palate is long and quite dense, with well handled oak.  Flavours tend to strawberry, with black pepper and earthy notes.  This is quite a savoury wine that can be drunk now with food, (decanting recommended) or cellared for a few years with confidence.

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – Pernand- Vergelesses – Ile Des Vergelesses – 2010 (17.9).  Savoury/sappy wine of some charm, this is deceptively concentrated and long.  The finish is a highlight with the fruit and texturing oak fanning out across the palate.  Delicate fruit with hints of rose and red berries.  Very persistent, the supple/savoury close makes this an excellent drink.

Emilie Geantet – Gevrey Chambertain – Les Evocolles – 2010 (17.5).  Lithe, fresh and delicious, this is a supple wine that still has enough structure and depth to make it quite a serious drink.  The mouth-feel is a highlight, with succulent fruit that really lingers.

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grands Epenots – 2009 (18).  This is the most structured of the wines to date and a serious wine with poise and balance.  There is very good, quality fruit that has been expertly handled.  The cherry fruit is still tight and quite closed, but a little time will reward this handsomely.  Whilst approachable now, this will be better in 5 years.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2009 (18).  Structured and powerful, this has it all.  Ripe fruit, structured oak and fine, though prodigious tannins.  The length is superb.  This needs 5 years before being approached to allow the high quality fruit to emerge from behind the veil of structure.  Mouth-feel not quite silky, but still delicious.  Oak dominates the fruit now, but this will settle.  Very complex, with perfume, spice and hints of soya to close.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2011 (18-18.5).  Softer and more approachable with sweet, ripe fruit.  This is plush, rich and quite thick in the mouth.  Not viscous, just dense and layered with plum and cherry over anise, earthy notes and a touch of smoke.  An impressive wine now, given how approachable this is.

Thenard – Pinot Noir – Corton – Clos du Roi – Grand Cru – 2010 (18).  Closed, yet silky, this wine just hints at potential on the nose.  The palate is tight and fine, yet the fruit builds and lingers.  This is a serious wine that has been made for the future, not now.  Opens to show hints of strawberry, oak spice and gentle earthiness.  Ripe tannins frame the finish.

Thenard – Pinot Noir – Grand Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2010 (18.5).  A delightful wine that is closed and shy, yet delicate, attractive and full of personality.  This is a feminine style, with purity of fruit, yet it is restrained and silky.  Very fine fruit and winemaking, with hints of cedary oak rounding out the finish.  Superb mouth-feel and length, this is an exercise in balance.

Reviewed: 26^th January 2014

The most interesting part of this tasting was the different expressions of merlot.  Two stand-out wines were the Bird in Hand Merlot and the Cumulus Merlot.  The Bird in Hand had all of the ripe, plump fruit that we have come to expect in a Australian wine.  Delicious, but with enough structure to handle time in the bottle.

The Cumulus on the other hand was structured, tight and a touch austere.  Destined to blossom with time in the cellar, this is more akin to a right-bank bordeaux than a “sunny” Australian merlot.

If you are after a cheap BBQ red, then the Tyrell’s and Angove will keep the in-laws happy this summer.

Reviewed:

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2012 (18).  Cedar, cinnamon and savoury spice on the nose.  The fruit on the palate is a standout, being bright and fresh, with delicious red berry flavours.  This finish is very long and fine, with real finesse.  An impressive wine that is a great each-way bet.  RRP $42.

Cumulus – Merlot – 2011 (18).  Opens with vanilla, cedar and cinnamon.  Whilst this is a structured wine that lacks a little joy now, there is excellent fruit quality and high quality, well-integrated oak.  This took a couple of days to open up and show its best, so give it some air.  One for the cellar.

Castelli – Tempranillo – 2011 (17.5+).  Firm, structured, dense and very closed right now.  The fruit is subdued, with firm acidity to close.  Chewy, with cooler fruit characters, this is an excellent rendition of this traditional Spanish variety.

Groom – Zinfandel – Bush Block – 2012 (17.5).  This has dense, chocolate and plum-like fruit with a touch of raisin.  Juicy and vibrant fruit, with admirable length.  The finish is slightly warm, but suits the style.  This will be a great winter red for those who like a BIG red.

Tyrrell’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – Lost Block – 2012 (17.2).  Cedar, spice and well handled oak on the nose.  Good length, though the dense, plum-like fruit is a little muted on the palate.  Given a bit of air, this will make a good mid-week quaff.  $10.

Angove – Merlot – Long Row – 2012 (17).  Amazing quality fruit for a wine of this price.  Whilst the fruit is quite soft and generous, there is decent structure, with bright acidity and firm tannins.  Hints of tobacco and spice to close.  Excellent value at $10.

Redbank – Merlot – Long Paddock – 2012 (16.5).  Plump and fresh, though not over-ripe or jammy.  Nice tannin structure, subtle oak, good length and reasonable persistence.  Good drinking, medium-bodied red that is fair value at $13.

Reviewed: 20^th January 2014

Jericho – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume – 2013 (17.5+).  Lemony fruit to the fore here, with grassy notes and a touch of spice.  This has a delicious palate, with gentle creaminess combined with lemony freshness and focused minerality on the finish.  Nice acidity combines with complex, barrel fermentation characters.  Excellent length and balance!

Lindeman’s – Semillon – Bin 1155 – 2011 (17- 17.5).  Very pale colour.  This is a smart wine of some quality, though the whole package is very restrained at present.  It is on the palate that the quality of this wine becomes apparent, with lemon and lanolin.  The mouth-feel and depth are spot on.  Just give it 5 – 10 years. $30.

Deen De Bortoli – Semillon – Vat 5 – Botrytis – 2009 (17).  Pungent (glorious) nose that is packed full of ripe apricot, with nutty overtones.  The palate is viscous and dense, with decent power and length.  Just needs a little more acidity to really set the palate alight, but at around $13, this is mighty drinking.

De Bortoli – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Windy Peak – NV (16.8).  Gentle richness here, coming from the red fruit characters.  The palate is lively, balancing fresh, apply characters with just enough yeasty notes to make this quite interesting.  Good length and excellent acidity make this an excellent quaff.  Value at $15.

De Bortoli – Chardonnay – Sacred Hill – 2013 (16.3).  Quite a complete wine that has real interest.  Quality, lemony fruit with some depth on the palate combines nicely with a savoury twist.  This is in no way a great wine, but it actually tastes like chardonnay and is a bargain at $7.

Vertical Tasting.

Reviewed: 19^th January 2014

The reputation of Tyrrell’s Vat 1 Semillon needs no introduction.  It is one of Australia’s iconic white wines.  Along with the Lovedale Semillon from McWilliams, this represents the pinnacle of Hunter Valley semillon.

The challenge for un-oaked semillon is that, outside of NSW, not many people have a lot of experience drinking this style of wine.  Sure, there are some lovely semillons from the Barossa and Clare, but these have typically spent time in barrel.

I approached this tasting with a sense of anticipation as it provided the opportunity to gain a greater understanding of how Hunter Valley Semillon develops, and importantly, to see just how good the Vat 1 is.  There was much discussion amongst those present about what to expect.  There were questions about style and also about aging possibilities.

What was most interesting was the commentary from attendees around when to drink these wines.  The young wines were so delicious that, initially, several tasters did not see the point of aging them any further.  This was until they tried the older wines.

By the end of the tasting, the point for discussion was “just how long will these wines continue to age?”  Good bottles of the older wines were a revelation as they were outstanding drinking, but still had the potential to age further.  The wines were nothing short of brilliant.

There was consensus about a few points though:

1. The Vat 1 Semillon is one of Australia’s great white wines.
2. Under screw-cap, they present tremendous aging potential.
3. The 1997 was the clear favourite, (closely followed by 2013 and 2007 for me personally).

A special thanks must go to Mick Hutchins who generously provided the wines from his cellar!

Bracket One

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2013 (18.3+).  Pure and bright!  Quite savoury, with lanolin and a delicious creamy character.  There is lemon-like fruit on the palate, though this is remarkably restrained and fine.  The superb length/persistence and mouth-feel are the key here, though this wine really only hints at potential.  Seamless, with air it develops perfume and minerality, and is a wonderful drink, (reminds me of a great Polish Hill riesling).  $40 ex-winery.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2009 (17.7).  Lovely honeyed notes on the nose and palate, with hints of peach, toast and brioche.  The palate is fine and taut, but has built more richness compared to the 2008.  The acidity remains in the lemon spectrum.  Drinks remarkably well now, but sure to develop more.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2008 (18.5).  Much more perfume than the previous wines.  Gentle talc and floral notes to the fore on the nose.  The palate is restrained and taut, with precise lemon acidity and a near seamless palate.  Remarkable wine at the start of a very long journey.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2007 (18.7).  More in common with the 2013 than the 2009.  Fresh, taut, steely and filled with mineral-like complexity.  Developed floral fruit with air.  Remarkable purity and balance.  A great wine.

Bracket Two

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2006 (18).  Another steely, mineral-driven wine, with talc and musk notes on the nose.  The palate is near seamless, with the precise fruit cutting through the finish.  Supple, subtle and very long.  Needs a few years to evolve, but was superb drinking once it opened up.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2005 (17.8).  Quite closed and austere on the nose, but opened to show complex citrus characters.  The palate is actually quite thick and viscous, but the finish perhaps lacks a little drive.  Drinking well now, the gentle toasty notes on this continue to build long after the fruit has subsided.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 2000 (18).  The first wine under cork and a much more golden colour.  The nose has both honey and caramel notes.  The palate is glorious, with honeyed fruit offset by bright, fresh acidity that adds a lemony zing to the finish.  Full developed and drinking a treat.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1999 (18.5).  More restrained than the 2000, and more balanced.  There is delicate fruit with hints of minerals and talc.  This has some of the toasty notes that were evident on the 2005, but still has remarkable freshness and balance.  A superb wine that is drinking superbly, but is also capable of aging further.

Bracket Three

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1998 (17.5).  Very golden colour, darker than the 97 and 95.  Honey, mushroom and truffle on the nose.  The palate has amazing lemony acid, though the fruit is very subdued, making the palate a touch unbalanced.  But this opens up with time in the glass, developing complexity and length.  A very good drink, but perhaps not the best bottle.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1997 (19).  The lightest colour of all the wines under cork!  Amazingly fresh on the nose.  This has all of the subtle, floral characters of the 2007 and 2013, with the merest hint of toast and caramel.  The palate is rich, round and viscous, with lemon/lime brûlée, tropical fruit and gentle, toasty complexity.  Incredibly youthful, this is a great wine!

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1995 (18.3).  Closed and taut, this is remarkably elegant and delicate, with gentle toast and caramel notes.  Not as dense as the 97, but a lovely drink, with still fresh acid.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Vat 1 – 1993 (17.3).  Very developed colour.  The palate is notable for the lack of toast.  This is a gentle wine that, whilst a good drink, lacks the depth of the best here.

Reviewed: 23^rd November 2013

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18/18.5+).  Initially this shows a crisp, clear nose that has supple ripe fruit over gentle cedar and spice.  The palate is ripe, fleshy and generally delicious.  The finish is defined by a sprinkling of fine tannins and fine grained oak.  With time in the bottle and glass, the quality of this wine shone through, developing complex, briary notes and real depth to the fruit.  Very approachable now, but the patient will be rewarded.

Yalumba  – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Signature – 2009 (18.5).  Ripe fruit, with chocolate, vanilla and spice on the nose.  The palate is very textured, possessing depth of fruit, concentration, tremendous length and persistence.  The finish is defined by fine, though slightly chewy, tannins.  Superb wine that will evolve for years, yet can be drunk now with pleasure.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate – 2011 (18).  Concentrated, essence-like fruit on the nose.  The palate hints at the same, though the fruit is enveloped in a blanket of fine, silky tannins.  Slightly souring plum-like acidity carries a very long finish.  This is a style that will work a treat with food now, yet will age for many years.  A serious wine that, at $30 is a worthy cellar addition.

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2010 (18).  Another impressive wine that combines superbly ripe and concentrated fruit with supple oak and tannins.  Excellent length to a finish that is fine and lingering.  Balanced, elegant and silky, a remarkable cabernet from the Barossa Valley.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2011 (17.5).  Bright, fresh and vibrant with blackcurrant, licorice, fennel, spice and supple, cedary oak.  A surprisingly serious wine that combines quality fruit and oak in a deftly handled package, with excellent length on the finish.  Only medium-bodied, this will still handle a few years in the cellar.  Why wait though?

Willow Bridge – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Dragonfly – 2012 (17.5).  Impressively inky colour in the glass.  The nose is redolent of blackcurrant and spice.  The fruit is chewy and dense on the palate, and opens up nicely on the finish.  A well-made wine that would suit short term cellaring.

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Hidden Cave – 2012 (17+).  Silky, soft, ripe and very easy to drink.  Supple, everyday drinking.

New Release – Loire Whites

Reviewed: 11^th November 2013

The team at Lamont’s has landed another couple of containers of imported wines and suggested that I pop in and try a cross section of their sauvignon blancs from the Loire Valley.  These wines are quite different in style to that which we see from NZ or Australia or the SBS blends from Bordeaux.

Oak use can vary significantly, but is often used for at least a part of the cuvee to add creamy complexity via barrel fermentation.

In this tasting, the wines from Sancerre tended to be a little lighter than the Pouilly Fumes, but this is a broad generalisation.  The wines from Sancerre were also a little less expensive on average, but no less enjoyable.

Below are my picks.

Reviewed.

Domaine Fouassier – Sauvignon Blanc – Sancerre – Les Chailloux – 2011 (17.3).  Clean, crisp and fresh, with a lovely, taut minerality running the length of the palate.  Nicely textured, with a finish that has a slightly creamy texture.  This is quite a neutral wine that will take light food well, but is a good drink solo.  (A smart wine that does not show any overt oak characters, but does possess a creaminess that suggests at least part barrel fermentation).

Domaine Fouassier – Sauvignon Blanc – Sancerre – Les Chasseignes – 2011 (17.8).  Another neutral wine, though there is a savoury/nutty character running through the palate.  The finish is textured and creamy, whilst the persistence is admirable.  The palate is mineral-like and flinty, with hints of spice and ripe fruit.  A complex and powerful wine, with some winemaking inputs adding interest.  (Would definitely handle food well).

Pierre Maudry – Sauvignon Blanc – Sancerre – L’Antique – 2012 (17.7).  Pristine, lemony fruit and savoury complexity make this quite a complete wine.  Bitter almond and supple acid carry the finish, with smoky notes to close.  Savoury and long, this will be a great match to seafood.

Balland Chapuis – Sauvignon Blanc – Pouilly Fume – 2012 (17.2).  I like this.  Whilst it is quite neutral, the wine has zip and life.  Hint of minerals and struck match add interest.  The palate is long, silky, creamy and refined.  I would like a touch more mid-palate weight, but this has lovely mouth-feel and texture.  Sure to be a crowd-pleaser.

Pierre Maudry – Sauvignon Blanc – Pouilly Fume – Tradition – 2012 (17.8).  Viscous, mouth-coating and savoury, with good minerality.  Restrained and supple, with quality fruit and winemaking.  This should build and develop in the bottle as everything is in place, it is just very closed and tight.  Quality fruit and winemaking on show.