Tag Archives: Margaret River

Voyager Estate – October 2014

Reviewed: 19th October 2014

Although I have been visiting the Margaret River region for more years than I care to admit, up until now, I had not actually eaten at Voyager Estate. This proved to be the perfect excuse to have lunch with the family, as well as taste my way through much of the current range.

The facilities are some of the most impressive in the country. The stately, manicured grounds are a delight to behold, with various groups of people wondering amongst the flowers or just resting on the manicured lawns.

I was shown through to the private tasting room on arrival, where Voyager’s Sommelier Claire Tonon walked me through the range of wines currently on sale. The wines were uniformly impressive, happily occupying the middle ground stylistically. The wines are not over-ripe fruit bombs, but possess enough flesh to ensure that they do not appear astringent.

Travis Lemm has been in charge of the winemaking since 2009 and has been given the opportunity, not only to make the standard range, but also small parcels of excellent “project” wine under the VOC sub-range. The Merlot in particular was a highlight though production of any wine is limited to 100 – 120 dozen and the composition varies from year to year. This range is limited to cellar-door only.

The restaurant, under head chef Nigel Harvey lived up to its reputation. Each dish was carefully crafted and beautifully presented to showcase the fresh ingredients used. We tried a number of dishes (fish, venison, spatchcock and tofu), and all were delicious.

Of note was the fact that there were a number of back vintages available to drink by the glass. I tried the Chardonnay flight with my fish, which contained the 2011, 2007 and 2006. It was fascinating to see how the two older wines compared, given that they had very similar treatment in the winery (12 months in oak, 40% new, partial malo) The 2006 was still quite firm, with fresh acidity reflecting the cooler year, whilst the 2007 was richer and more viscous. Both worthwhile, but in different ways. The 2006 is likely to last for quite a few more years in a good cellar.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are for illustrative purposes only

Reviewed

Voyager Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013 (17). Delicious, grassy nose with a floral lift. The palate is textured and quite complex, reflecting that a small portion wine used in the blend had barrel fermentation and lees contact. As the wine warms, the tropical fruit notes become more apparent. This is a good each way bet as it will work equally well with, or without food. (RRP $24).

Voyager Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). A blend of 50% Gin Gin clone combined with other French clones that were planted in the mid-2000s. This has a very attractive nose that is redolent of peach/stone fruit. The palate leads with white nectarine and peach flavours and evolves into complex minerals and spice. The balance is exemplary. The high-quality fruit has been very well paired with fine, tight grained oak. Excellent length, depth and persistence round out the wine. Now to five years. (RRP $45).

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2013 (16.8). The most approachable of the whites on the nose, with bright, floral and tropical notes to the fore. The palate is fresh, but has a surprising degree of depth. Whilst this finishes quite dry, the small amount (4gm/l) of residual sugar combined with a textural viscosity enhance the mouth-feel. Deserves to be popular this summer. (RRP $20).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Girt By Sea – 2011 (17.5) Attractive savoury notes over red fruit characters, with a souring, cherry-like backbone. The palate is succulent, but still has a degree of restraint and elegance. The souring acidity adds depth and life to the finish. The oak sits nicely in the background, allowing the fruit to speak. One of the best wines that I have seen under this label and a decent drink now. (RRP $24).

Voyager Estate – Shiraz – 2011 (18). Aromas of white pepper and spice to the fore on both the nose and palate. The fruit and tannins have been beautifully polished by the oak, making for a lovely drink now, but also allowing for improvement in the cellar. With air the structure builds, the chewy, drying finish allowing this to be paired with a variety of foods. (RRP $38).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (18.5). The colour is just starting to turn at the rim, reflecting the extra time that this has had in bottle. The nose has blackcurrant and mulberry components, but there is a lovely savoury component that adds complexity. The palate is still firm, though there is a degree of refinement that is alluring. The finish is deceptively soft, as the power is palpable, lurking beneath the refinement. Long and fine, with dusty, powdery tannins to close, this is a lovely wine that will only get better over the coming decade. (RRP $70).

Voyager Estate – Semillon – VOC – 2013 (17.7). This is the first straight Semillon released by the winery since 2006. In many ways reminiscent of good Chardonnay, with a creamy, complex nose and citrus (orange blossom) notes. The main clue to the variety comes from the lanolin-like characters. The palate has minerals and spice, with complex struck-match characters coming from the winemaker’s inputs. (Cellar Door Only – RRP $38).

Voyager Estate – Merlot – VOC – Wilyabrup – 2012 (18.5). The only wine in the range that is from non-estate vines. Lush red fruits to the fore on the nose with floral highlights. That said, there is a lovely savoury lift here. The palate is dusty and taut, but that lovely red fruit character runs right across the mid palate. The length and persistence are a real highlight with firm but refined tannins. Quite a profound wine. (Cellar Door Only – RRP $55).

Vasse Felix

Reviewed: 14th May 2014

Situated in the Willyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, Vasse Felix can lay claim to being the oldest producer of wines in this prestigious region. Established in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, the first release was the 1972 vintage.

Since then, the winery has gone from strength to strength as the range has been refined and stratified. The focus is now on three distinct pillars, Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, Chardonnay and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends. A consistent approach to stratification is also being gradually adopted.

At the top of the quality tree is the Heytesbury, (gold peregrine on the label). Currently, this is limited to the Cabernet and the Chardonnay. That said, Virginia Willcock and the team are working towards a Heytesbury SSB. A small batch was released from the 2011 vintage and the wine produced in 2013 is excellent. Time will tell if this will end up under the Heytesbury label.

Sitting just below this, from a quality perspective, is the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. These are set to be joined by a chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. (These wines have the burgundy coloured peregrine on the label and a burgundy capsule). The Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and “standard” Chardonnay sit below this. These wines will be re-labelled Filius from the next vintage to avoid confusion.

Finally, there is the Classic range with a Dry White and a Dry Red.

I rate Vasse Felix in the top five wineries in the region. Their wines are consistently outstanding. If you ask nicely, they may even give you a 20% discount for dozen lots at the cellar door, which makes the wines extraordinary value.

A special thanks must go to Francine and the team at Vasse Felix for making our visit so enjoyable.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013. Fragrant and complex with lovely lemon and lanolin notes. The grassy notes come out with air. Whilst fresh and lively, there is an undertone of complexity that comes from the 19% of fruit that was fermented in new oak. A small portion was also fermented on skins which helps to add depth to the palate.

Vasse Felix – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – “White Cap” – 2012. Made in a similar way to white Bordeaux: All fruit was fermented/aged in new oak for nine months with a further six months in older oak. 60% Semillon, a portion of the SB was fermented on skins. This is a powerful wine that is creamy and textured, with lemon curd, lanolin, minerals and a touch of struck match/flintiness. That said, this is a fine wine that will take some years in the bottle. Destined to become Heytesbury?

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2012. A very fine and delicate style that has lovely, peach-like stone fruit aromas. The palate is quite linear at present, reflecting the youthful nature of this wine. The limey acid provides excellent drive on the finish. Matured in a mix of new, one and two year old oak, though this is just a whisper on the finish. Really needs a year or two to fill out and open up. (Will be labelled Filius from 2013).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Burgundy Capsule – 2013. Very tight and restrained, with bright fruit and refreshing acidity. The palate is creamy, though the fruit is shy at present. The finish is near seamless, with supple oak adding depth and mouth-feel. Needs a few years, but will be worth the wait. Soon to be released, this is destined to be the first “burgundy capsuled” chardonnay.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2012. Very powerful nose blending stone fruit, pineapple and complex winemaker’s inputs (struck match minerality and creamy barrel ferment and lees aromas). The powerful fruit continues on a palate that is complex, balanced and very long. Seamless palate transition, with the texture really building on the close. A superb effort that retains freshness and poise. Lovely now, but better in a few years.

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2012. Always a delight to drink as this wine balances approachable fruit characters with a finish that is supple, textural and long. Destined to be the last semillon made by Vasse Felix as the fruit used in this wine will be used in the SSB going forward.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011. An excellent expression of this style, showing perfumed fruit with hints of violet and summer berries. The palate adds hints of leather, spice and earthy notes to the red fruits, with herbal notes and fine, supple tannins to close. Like many wines made from this blend in the region, this is made in a more approachable style. (Will be labelled Filius in future years).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011. Classic minty, blackcurrant fruit on the nose over spice and cedary oak. The palate is silky and very long, though this needs years to reach its peak. A very fine wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2011. The fruit and winemaking here is nothing short of spectacular. The nose is filled with fragrant fruit over supple savoury/spicy notes. This is a very complex wine. The palate is breathtaking, displaying fruit that is very powerful, yet refined and very elegant. The chewy, structural notes build on a finish that is silky, balanced and very long. An iron fist in a velvet glove. A brilliant wine that will comfortably take 20 years in the cellar.

 

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – April 2014

Reviewed: 20 April 2014

This tasting offered up an interesting cross-section of cabernets from around the globe. I was pleased to see that the styles of the wines reviewed accurately reflected the region in which they were produced. This really added interest to the tasting, as the wines reflected the terrior in which the grapes were grown.

Highlights for me were the wines from Mildara and Chateau Lariveau. I am not sure if the later wine is available in Australia, but it is worth a try if you see it. The Mildara, on the other hand, should be widely available and is the best wine that I can recall under this label, (I am not lucky enough to have tried the 1963).

Reviewed

Mildara – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.5). There is lovely balance to this wine. The fruit is ripe, yet focused, with supple oak and tannins providing the framework. Very good length and quite a silky finish with the acid bringing the palate to life. Good now, but will be better with a few years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Moss Wood Vineyard – 2011 (18/18.5+). Complex herbal notes, with menthol and eucalyptus over ripe/precise blackcurrant fruit. The finish is quite tight, with the souring acidity and fine tannins providing drive, but obscuring the fruit at present. Will be better with 5 years in the bottle. Opened to show ripe cassis-like fruit and clove/star anise spice. This wine was the sleeper of the tasting and took a day or two to really hit its straps. (RRP $120).

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2010 (18). Menthol and cool region fruit characters. The palate is chewy and textured, but with fine tannins and good length. There is impressive fruit and winemaking, though it needs a little time to really come together. Powerful fruit, but with the structure to carry it. This is a very good wine that will only get better with time in the bottle.

Chateau Lariveau – Canon-Fronsac – 2010 (17.8). A lighter style, with fresh, souring red fruit characters. The winemaker’s inputs appear quite restrained, allowing the fruit to drive the finish. Raspberry and spice in a wine that is elegant and refined. With air, this really opened up to show quality fruit and deft winemaking.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Mamre Brook – 2011 (17.7). Savoury, lean, long and a touch herbal, reflecting the vintage conditions in 2011. Quite a dense, powerful wine, with tannins that are quite chewy, shutting down the fruit on the palate. That said, time will help here, as the fruit quality is excellent and the length impressive.

Yerring Station – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.5 – 18). A leaner style, with cool-area fruit that is ripe and restrained. Redcurrant, mint, subtle herbs and menthol all come through on the palate. The tannins are fine, though ample, leaving a talc-like texture on the finish. A very smart wine, that has years ahead of it.

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Reviewed: 27th March 2014

The dream run of vintages continues in the south west of Western Australia and the wines reviewed below deliver on the potential.

Of particular note was the Cullen Diana Madelaine.  Given the reputation of this producer, it is not surprising that it received gold medal points.  What was interesting however, was the way the wine presented.  Whilst recent vintages have been very austere, the 2012 is full of vibrant fruit.

Part of the story is told by the alcohol content.  At 13.5%, it is still at the lower end of Australian red wine, but it is at least a percent higher than the previous vintage.  Given the biodynamic nature of the vineyard, I assume that lunar cycle allowed for later picking dates than the year before.  Either way, the wine is a standout and can be enjoyed now or in 20 years.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Diana Madelaine – 2012 (18.5+).  Excellent depth here, with dark blackcurrant fruit that is rich, but not heavy.  The palate is silky and supple, with very fine tannins coating the tongue, but not interfering with the texture.  Excellent length and refinement on the finish.  A subtle wine, where the fruit is allowed to shine above the supple oak.  A lovely wine and the most accessible from Diana Madelaine for some years (13.5% alc).

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.8).  More peppermint here, with ripe, cool fruit characters.  There are also hints of eucalypt.  This is a leaner example that is more akin to Bordeaux in style.  Good length, but needs some time to add flesh to the bones.  The finish is elegant and supple, with ripe tannins. (RRP $60).

Xabregas – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Dense, dark fruits here.  Powerful and textured, with firm, yet fine tannins.  Prodigious length to the palate with blackberry and blueberry over savoury fruit.  The finish is incredibly long, the tannins drawing the palate to a close.  An intense wine that needs many years to show its best.  Worth a punt at around $30.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Lovely wine!  Combines ripe fruit with restraint and lovely texture.  A really complete wine that has sweet fruit, ripe tannins and supple texture on the finish.  Now or in 5 – 10 years. (RRP $30).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon/Touriga – 2009 (17.5).  An interesting blend that combines the minty cabernet with plump touriga fruit characters.  The nose has attractive, generous fruit that is ripe and rich, with some mocha notes.  Cedar, spice, camphor, mint, eucalypt and gentle, dried herbs evolve in the mouth.  A big style that will appeal to lovers of big, juicy reds.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2011 (17.5).  Blackcurrant, plum and cherry fruit on the nose.  The palate is savoury and tight, with the acid and fine tannins effectively shutting down the fruit initially.  Opens to show nicely ripe fruit characters with decent depth. (RRP $28).

Willoughby Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17 – 17.5).  What this wine lacks in initial generosity, it makes up for in restrained elegance.  Classic cool-climate cabernet that has mint and eucalyptus over blackcurrant and plum fruit, with chocolate and cedary oak highlights.  Not overly dense, but an attractive wine that offers value. (RRP $22).

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 8th November 2013

This was a fascinating tasting that highlighted the quality and diversity of chardonnays being made in Australia.  From the taut austerity of the Devils Lair, the balance of the Frankland Estate, to the richness and depth of the Singlefile, they are all quality wines.

Interestingly, there were a couple of wines from 2013 in the tasting.  These have not been reviewed, as they were just too young to properly assess them at this point.

Reviewed.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – 2012 (18).  A very fine wine made in a lighter style.  The fruit has been picked early to retain freshness and vitality, though this comes at the cost of immediate drinkability.  There is no denying the quality of the  fruit, and this has been very well handled.  The key feature here is the excellent length and persistence.  This wine took four days to really open up and shine, so cellaring is recommended.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2012 (18).  Wow, superb nose that has powerful fruit combined with complex winemaker’s inputs that adds a struck match character to the minerals and quality oak.  The palate is rich, dense and very long.  The oak sits well with the fruit, though a year or two should see this settle back a little and allow the fruit to really shine.  The finish is very long and complex, with curry leaf and spice to close.  Expensively made.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2012 (17.9).  This wine takes the middle ground between the Devils Lair and Singlefile.  The fruit is attractive and well matched to the subtle winemaking notes.  Aroma wise, there is lemon, stonefruit, melon and a hint of tropical fruit.  The palate is supple, creamy and quite savoury.  The finish is very balanced and near seamless, though the acid cuts a swath through the creamy texture.  A smart wine that will be even better in 2 – 3 years.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – DJL – 2012 (17.4).  Fresh, vibrant and very smart.  A modern style that has a portion of earlier picked fruit to retain freshness.  Good quality fruit is matched by lovely, citrus-like acidity, with the oak adding texture to the palate.  Well made.

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – G1-10 – 2012 (17.5).  Lovely wine this, in a subtly worked style.  There is excellent fruit and winemaking and quite a seamless finish.  The oak sits nicely with the fruit and adds texturally.  Good mouth-feel and length to close.

 

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed 7th August 2013

This tasting saw the new releases from Cherubino and Sandalford, and neither disappointed.

The highlights for the tasting were two wines from Cherubino (Ad Hoc and Laissez Faire) and the pair from Angoves.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Shiraz – Laissez Faire – 2012 (18 – 18.5).  Lovely peppery fruit here on both the nose and palate that is very attractive.  Initially, the nose is closed and tight, while the palate is restrained, yet silky and supple.  Superb fruit and winemaking on show, though this wine is only hinting at potential now.  Over a couple of days, this wine really blossomed to show beautiful fruit that is very hard to resist.  This is compelling drinking at $50.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Prendiville – 2011 (18 – 18.5).  Wow!  This is a special wine, with fantastic, cool climate shiraz that has been brilliantly handled.  Starts off refined, fine and elegant, yet there is an underlying intensity to the fruit that is disarming.  Chewy and dense, the quality French oak adds texture to the mouth-feel rather than overt flavours.  Very long, but needs time.

The Yard – Shiraz – Acacia Vineyard – 2011 (18+).  Closed, tight, dense and powerful.  Superb wine that needs years to open up and let the quality fruit sing.  The finish is drier than the Sahara desert, with tannins that completely close down the fruit.  With air this developed chocolate, plum, spice and cedar, with hints of licorice and pepper.  Demands patience, but this is a worthwhile addition to the cellar.

The Yard – Shiraz – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (17.8+).  More obvious fruit here, though this is a good thing.  Rich and ripe, with a core of chocolate running through the palate.  The tannins are very fine, though plentiful.  Smart wine now, or in 10 years.  This wine took two to three days on the tasting bench to hit its straps, but was a very rewarding drink.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2010 (17.5 – 18).  Serious fruit on the nose, though this is the first wine where the vanilla/coconut characters from the oak sit over the fruit.  This is not a bad thing, it is just that it will need a couple of years for the oak to settle into the fruit.  Firm and drying, though the finish is quite silky.

Ad Hoc – Shiraz – Middle of Everywhere – 2012 (17.5+).  The absolute bargain in the Cherubino shiraz line-up, and a delicious wine to boot.  Opens with peppery, bright fruit that has plum, cinnamon and spicy notes.  The palate is long and fleshy, with enough structure to guarantee aging.  The finish is elegant and mouth-filling, making for a great drink now or in 10 years.

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2012 (17.7).  Brilliant fruit, lovely structure, sympathetic oak. This is long and dense with drying tannins.  Will reward short term cellaring.  How this can be sold for only $15 dollars is beyond me!

Angove – Shiraz/ Cabernet – Organic – 2012 (17.2).  Nice blend of ripe, peppery fruit and more complex, earthy aromas.  This follows through on the palate, with bright cherry fruit, white pepper and dense, plum flavours.  Softer tannins make this an easy wine to enjoy now with a meal, or to cellar for a few years for added complexity.  Organic or not, this is a good drink and a real bargain.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Margaret River – 2011 (16.9).  Lovely ripe fruit with smart oak.  Refined, though this is a more obvious wine.  The alcohol adds depth to the mouth-feel.  Chewy, dense and textured, this is a good mid-week wine that could also be aged for a few years.

Western Australia’s Best Cabernet Region?

Reviewed: 20th July 2012

Everyone knows that Margaret River makes Western Australia’s (and possibly Australia’s) best cabernet based wines.  Right?  They certainly make the most high quality cabernets of any region in Australia.  The region also produces the highest number of quality wines as a percentage of the total volume produced.

But what about the Great Southern region centred around Frankland River?  Cabernet, after all, is not the main focus here.  The focus in the region is primarily on riesling and shiraz.  Cabernet plays a much smaller role in the region’s output.

The question of where the best WA cabernets come from was brought into sharp focus with the current tasting, courtesy of the new release wines of Larry Cherubino.  Here is a producer that has access to some of the best fruit in the state.  Submitted for the tasting were both the Margaret River and Frankland River cabernets under the Cherubino label as well as Frankland River cabernets under the Yard and Ad Hoc labels.

The Frankland River Cherubino was the star of the tasting and, at $110/bottle, was also significantly more expensive than the Margaret River version of the same wine.  In fact, when compared to the Margaret River wine, The Yard and Ad Hoc (Frankland) wines from the same producer represents excellent value for the quality on offer.

So Cherubino’s best (and most expensive) cabernet comes from Frankland River, but what about other producers?  Well, Houghton produces a number of very high quality wines from Margaret River, but their most expensive wine is the Jack Mann from Frankland River.  Separately, in a recent tasting of some of Margaret River’s finest cabernets, it was the 2010 Abercrombie from Howard Park (18.5 – 19pts) that stole the show.  The only problem was that this wine is also from Frankland!

So, in summary, three of Western Australia’s finest cabernet producers each source the fruit for their top wines from Frankland River and, in the case of Howard Park, this is my equal highest pointed cabernet of the year.

So to the rest of the tasting….

The wines from Xanadu are in top form and their current release cabernets are outstanding.  The standard release 2010 cabernet is an absolute steal at around $35, whilst their special release wines are stylish and very age-worthy.

This was a very high quality tasting with a number of excellent wines.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2011 (18.5).  An excellent wine that has a Jeckle and Hyde character.  Initially, this is very structured, with lean, precise fruit and a very long and drying finish.  This really builds in the glass to show full, ripe and dense fruit of the highest quality.  Flavour characters include mint, eucalypt and a touch of menthol.  An excellent, no-compromise wine that demands time in the cellar (or at least an hour or two in the decanter) if you are going to drink it now.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18/18.5+).  Very complex nose that has savoury characters balanced by fresh fruit aromas.  Think cedar, brambly blackcurrant, licorice, pepper and black fruits with earthy, forest floor highlights.  The palate is taut and austere, the acid, tannins and quality oak subduing the fruit.  Opens to show really dense, bright fruit with superb mouth-feel and structure. This wine is a star and is destined for a very long future.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stephens Road – 2010 (18.3).  Precise nose. Precise palate.  This is a superb wine, where the quality fruit has been carefully crafted in the winery.  Restrained mint and eucalyptus are present on both the nose and palate.  The oak is very fine and silky, though in combination with the tannins, serves to shut down the fruit.  Elegant and age-worthy.  (Made in tiny quantities).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2011 (18+).  Touch of sweet and sour here.  This is a much bigger, more textured wine than some here, with dense, chocolaty fruit.  Very long and persistent, with a somewhat chewy finish, though the balance is spot-on.  This demands time, or a big steak now.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (18).  Lovely minty cabernet fruit to open on the nose, with slightly dusty, cedary oak and a touch of herbs.  The palate has bright redcurrant, cedar and spice.  The oak is well married to the high quality fruit and the tannins, whilst firm, are not aggressive.  Quite a pretty wine now, but the best is yet to come, as the texture and mouth-feel build and replace the overt fruit characters.  Although it lacks a bit of joy now, give it time to open and I am sure the marks will get even higher.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (18).  Whilst there is no doubting the quality of fruit that has gone into this wine, it is a touch disjointed at present, with the fruit at odds with the oak and tannins now.  Chewy, textured and dense, this is a powerful wine.  Like a jigsaw, the pieces will come together over time allowing the full picture to be seen.

Ad Hoc – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Avant Gardening – 2012 (17.9).  Smart wine here.  This has lean fruit, courtesy of the cooler region, though the fruit is fully ripe.  The palate is powerful, taut and full of nervous energy.  The finish is more about the structure, as the oak and fruit tannins shut down the fruit characters.  Whilst this is quite user friendly, I would still recommend decanting now to drink with a steak, or give it a few years to hit its straps.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8).  Cedar and spice on the nose, with a core of ripe fruit and regional mintiness.  The palate is dense, thick and textured, a wine with plump, ripe fruit.  Opens with air to show lovely minty fruit, good texture and fine tannins.  The oak is present, but not overt and carries the finish well.  Quite a big wine that could be drunk now or in 10 years.

Thompson Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5-18+).  Quite subdued nose that merely hints at the potential of this wine.  The palate is drying, long, savoury, restrained, fine and elegant, with dusty tannins framing the finish.  Beneath it all is serious, opulent fruit and good line and length in the mouth.  Just needs time to show its best.

Bussell – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – JG – 2011 (17.9).  A lovely wine that has ripe cabernet fruit as the focus.  The winemaking has been very sympathetic to the high quality, refined fruit, with the oak providing a framework in which the fruit sits.  Hints of mint and eucalyptus to close on a long, lingering finish.  Real potential here.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Il Cavaliere – 2010 (17.5).   Aromas of redcurrant and cedar to open.  Thick, dense fruit up front in the mouth, but the middle palate is quite subdued at first, with the tannins really closing this down.  Genuine Bordeaux style.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – Y series – 2011 (17.3).  Blackcurrant, cedar and cool climate fruit on the nose, with redcurrant fruit to close.  This is very persistent and elegant, the precise fruit well matched to the oak.  Good length, but needs 5 years to hit its straps.  Good value.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Unison – 2011 (17).  A solid wine that has lovely, cool climate, cabernet characters.  Mint, eucalypt and herbal notes to the fore on the nose, and these flow through to the palate.  The oak sits well with the ripe fruit and there is enough structure to take some aging.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 26th June 2013

As the weather has turned and the temperature has dropped, the panel took the opportunity to look through a strong shiraz line-up. The cooler weather presents its own problems though, as the temperature of the wine influences the flavour profile, which can change the wines characters quite dramatically.

The wines for this tasting were served at 18.5 degrees. This is an ideal temperature to drink red wine, though when first opened, the fruit aromas can be somewhat subdued. As a number of the wines were from cooler regions, the structure of the wines was highlighted.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2011 (18.3). This wine is closed and tight, yet incredibly fine and superbly made. The fruit quality is outstanding as is the winemaking. The finish is seamless, silky and very long. This is classic cool climate shiraz, though the degree of refinement is second to none. Dense, ripe, yet closed and restrained, this needs 2 hours in a decanter, or two decades is the cellar!

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2010 (18). Classic nose that balances ripe, yet restrained fruit with gentle cedary spice from the quality oak. Pepper, clove, star anise and Asian five spice are all expressed, yet the beautifully ripe fruit sits comfortably over the spice. The finish is textured and firm, suggesting that 5 – 10 years in the bottle will allow this to blossom. Another excellent wine from Howard Park.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2010 (18). The sweet fruit in this wine sets it apart from the other wines tasted to date. This has classic McLaren Vale richness with hints of coffee and chocolate. On the palate, these characters follow through, though the finish is actually quite tight. The quality oak has been well matched to the fruit and the textural components are silky and refined. Well balanced, this would take a steak beautifully, but is sure to age for many years. An excellent wine from a great vintage.

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Black Dog – 2010 (18). Opens with licorice, spice and supple oak. On the palate there is excellent length and depth. The wine is closed down by the very fine tannins, though the balance is excellent. Excellent mouth-feel and texture supports the high quality fruit, and there are hints of mocha to close. A powerful wine that reflects the region very well.

West Cape Howe – Shiraz – Two Steps – 2011 (18). Impressive fruit here. Opens with intense licorice, plum and spice on the nose. Flows on to a palate that is powerful and firm, yet remarkably silky and fine. Though this is quite muscular, the cooler region fruit gives it a more restrained finish. The oak and tannins flatten the finish now, so a few years in the cellar will really pay dividends.

Killerby – Shiraz – 2011 (17.8). Real depth to the fruit on the nose, though the aroma profile is not mainstream (courtesy of the cooler region fruit). The palate is a touch awkward now, though the underlying fruit quality is very good. I like the finish here as the fruit and oak combine well leaving a supple, silky trail through the back palate. Quite bright and full of charm, this opens to show coffee/mocha notes and has a very spicy finish. Will be very good in time.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2012 (17.5). Much lighter and less intense than many here, though the wine has been made very well. Almost purple tinged, the wine is juicy, succulent and deliciously fruit driven. A great mid-week drink and superb value. (Should be available under $15).

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 Vintage

Reviewed: 4th June 2013

One of the local wine groups recently hosted a tasting of many of the best 2010 cabernets from Margaret River. This presented a wonderful opportunity to look through a very strong line up.

Margaret River has been blessed with many good or great vintages starting in 2007 and continuing to 2013. 2010 is considered by many to be one of the best!

There were a couple of real highlights. None more so than the Abercrombie from Howard Park. This is right up there with the best young Australian cabernets that I have tried. The others were the Penfolds Bin 707 (Iron fist in a velvet glove) and Xanadu (Outstanding value). I note that the 2009 Xanadu cabernet topped a recent tasting in Gourmet Traveller, so this outfit is obviously in great form!

The tasting served to highlight the consistent quality of the vintage, as well as the superb standard of Western Australian cabernets.

  • Tasted:                  21
  • Reviewed:            12

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2010 (18.5 – 19). This is a beautiful wine! The nose has perfumed, fragrant fruit that is beautifully ripe and balanced. The palate is silky, supple and refined and the finish near seamless. The length is outstanding, as is the wine-making. The balance really is the key to this wine. The finish has powerful, yet silky tannins. I can only guess at how long this wine can be aged, but it may well outlive me.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 – 2010 (18.5 – 19). This is a superb wine as it combines fruit that is concentrated and powerful with elegance and sophistication. The superb fruit is redolent of blackcurrant, with hints of cassis. Supple, fine and round in the mouth, the tannins and oak add depth and texture without overwhelming the fruit. Superb balance here and a wine built for the long haul.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). Concentrated fruit on a nose that is classic cabernet. The palate is powerful and structured yet has plenty of red fruits. Long and savoury, this is a wine that is all about potential. Everything is in place, it just needs 10 years to start to evolve and build. Will be very long lived.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). Now this is a great effort! Superb fruit quality has been matched to very fine oak and slick wine-making. This is elegant and refined, yet there is latent power palpable on the palate. The finish is very long and near seamless, the oak texture adding density to the fruit. This may well be the bargain of the year.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2010 (18.5). I could define this as an elegant monster. Refined, fine, tight and structured, this has superb wine-making, balance and composure. Underneath the refined exterior is a wine of tremendous power and concentration. The fruit is of the highest quality, yet the finish is quite subdued now. In 10 – 15 years, this may well be one the best wine here.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (18.5). Cooler fruit aromas that combine minty red fruits with a touch of eucalyptus and herbs. The palate is quite shut down by the acids and tannins, yet the fruit is supple and fragrant, complementing the structure very well. Not mainstream, yet a very compelling wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scottsdale – 2010 (18.4). Opens with hints of menthol and jubes. This is a delicious wine that has ripe, yet cool climate fruit combined with slick wine-making. The very long palate has a slightly chewy finish. The density of fruit is deceptive and the tannins are very fine, though ample. A great each way bet, as this is good drinking now, but is also sure to age well.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2010 (18.3). The fruit here is fine, fragrant, supple, bright, long and savoury. The bright acid carries the finish, where the tannins are soft, yet palpable. A lovely wine of elegance and class, though a few years would really be of benefit.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18.2). Menthol and a touch of herbs on the nose suggest a cooler sub-region or vintage. The palate is bright and fine, yet taught and tightly wound. The cooler region characters are also present on the palate, yet this is beautifully ripe and supple. The palate is only medium weight, yet there is real presence and excellent length and persistence. Drinks well now, but sure to age for many years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2010 (18++). I like this for the balance of dense fruit and elegant structure. This is somewhat of a sleeper, as the fruit density on the mid palate is a touch lean, yet all the elements are in place for this to blossom with time in the bottle. Blackcurrant, cedar, spice and very fine tannins all flow on a finish that, whilst not seamless now, is very seductive all the same.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2010 (18). Lovely fragrant red fruits that are a touch softer and more straight forward than some here. The bright fruit combines on the palate with complex savoury characters, supple oak and fine tannins. The length is outstanding and the structure really evolves and builds in the mouth. Did I mention that this was long? (Excellent value from Margaret River).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – 2010 (18). This is quite a subtle wine on the nose, though the palate has plenty of life courtesy of the bright acidity. This is quite lean initially, and Bordeaux lovers will appreciate the structure. Opens to show real potential. An elegant wine with real finesse.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – 2011. (17.8+). Youthful, closed and tight on both he nose and palate, this has eucalyptus and hints of menthol. Cedary oak is quite prominent on the finish, though the fruit is visible through the tannins and acid. This needs time to evolve as there is excellent fruit and wine-making. (Another ring in from 2011).

 

New Release Whites

Reviewed: 23rd May 2013

The panel looked at a bracket of chardonnays, as well as a selection of aromatic white wines for this tasting. In many ways, the highlight of the tasting was the arneis from Patritti. A distinctive wine of real charm.

For me, the wine of the tasting was the Singlefile Chardonnay, followed by the Swings and Roundabouts. Both very modern and showing excellent handling.

The final bracket was pinot gris/pinot grigio. You might ask what is the difference. As it turns out, there is no difference. It is the same grape, but coming from different regions. Gris from France and grigio from Italy. Traditionally, the styles have been quite different. Gris is made in a fresher, more aromatic style whereas grigio has been made in a dry/neutral style with food being a key consideration.

  • Tasted:        14 wines
  • Reviewed:    6 Wines

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Subtle minerals, curry leaf and creamy oak compliments the high quality fruit. The palate is restrained, yet the fruit builds and develops. The finish is persistent, long and supple, the oak just sitting over the fruit initially, but settling back with air to add texture and structure. Tight and lean, this will be even better with 3 – 4 years under its belt. Demonstrates excellent winemaking. From Denmark.

Swings & Roundabouts – Chardonnay – Backyard Stories – 2012 (17.5). This has a lovely nose that combines white peach and creamy, mealy notes with cashew nut complexity. On the palate there is excellent fruit characters and decent complexity courtesy of the slick winemaking. There is a seam of grapefruit running right through to the finish, leaving the palate refreshed and ready for another sip. The lovely mouth-feel and real length makes this a joy now or in 3 – 4 years. A leaner, modern style.

Patritti – Arneis – 2012 (17.2). This wine was a real surprise. It starts of quite neutral, dry and savoury, but really built to show a complex array of flavours including apricot, orange peel and perfume. The finish is long and textural. This is an interesting wine possessing real charm. Ideally suited to food, the neutral nature of the wine will work a treat with some pasta or even white fleshed fish. From the Adelaide Hills.

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – East Argyle – 2012 (17). Quite a creamy nose with some density and possibly a little barrel ferment characters. There is a degree of phenolic richness and viscosity on the palate and there is excellent length, smart acidity and a lovely citrus tang on the finish. This is an excellent drink alone or one to partner with lighter Asian food. True to the “gris” style.

Yalumba – Chardonnay – Y Series – Unwooded – 2012 (16.8). Aromatic and vibrant on both the nose and the palate. There are savoury, stone fruit characters, lemony acid and hints of honeysuckle and spice. A smart little wine that would make an excellent SSB alternative.

Yerring Station – Chardonnay – Village – 2011 (16.8). Quite Chablis like. This has a complex nose that has curry leaf, minerality, nuttiness and subtle stone fruit. The palate is tight and restrained, appearing relatively simple at first, as the lemony acidity and creamy oak suppress the fruit. This wine needs a few years for the fruit to uncoil and express itself.  Reflective of the cool vintage and an enjoyable wine.