Tag Archives: Wine Review

Cabernet and Merlot

14th April 2012

Some very smart wines here, thought there was a variety of styles on display.

Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.3). Very dense and powerful yet the fruit is very shy and reserved. The palate follows the theme with great length and very fine texture, but again, the fruit is subdued. Has everything in place for the long haul, but requires patience. Mint and blackcurrant are the dominant fruit characters with a touch of plum on the close. Will appeal to many!

Penley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18+). The nose is redolent of mint and blackberry fruit, though this is taught and more muscular than the HandPicked. Again, very long, though the tannins are more assertive in the mid-palate. The finish is balanced with a touch of coconut and vanilla showing from the oak. Everything is in place here, though ten years is required to see this wine really open up and show its full potential. This will last for a long time. Cork closure.

HandPicked – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Selections – By Peter Douglas – 2009 (17.8). Menthol and peppermint typical of Coonawara are a highlight on the nose. This is an attractive wine of some quality. The palate has eucalypt and peppermint over rich fruit that is very dense. There is a silky mouth-feel with prominent, (very fine) fruit and oak tannins. Lovely textural components and good line and length define a finish. This will evolve for many years and represents outstanding value at around $20. The only caveat is the cork closure.

Stormflower – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2009 (17.8). A real surprise here. Mint and eucalypt over red and blackcurrant fruit, with cedar and spice adding interest. An attractive wine that has quite powerful fruit. The finish is totally shut down by very fine tannins and oak, but the high quality fruit is hidden away. Lovely Margaret River cabernet. Points for potential.

Bird in Hand – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5). A more classically proportioned wine showing eucalypt, mint and cedary oak on both the nose and the palate. Long and savoury, the oak and tannins are a touch dominant at present but really soften with air. There is quality fruit and winemaking on display and the wine will evolve.

Grant Burge – Merlot – Hillcot – 2010 (17.4). A harmonious nose with aromas of coffee and spice over ripe red fruits. The palate shows fresh and vibrant fruit with a touch of vanillin oak to add complexity. The finish is textured and balanced, with a savoury twist to close.

Smith and Hooper – Merlot – Reserve – 2008 (17.4+). A real contrast to the easy-drinking style championed by the Oxford Landing. There is intense fruit on the nose that is complex, rich, ripe, dense and evolving. This has quality stamped all over it. Herbs, Satsuma plum and cherry combine with plenty of high quality cedary oak on the palate. There are coffee aromas to close. This needs time to fully integrate. The wine will not be to everyone’s taste, but it is an impressive wine all the same.

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Cameron Vale – 2010 (17). A good wine, but without great excitement. Ripe, well made and with decent length, there is a silky mouth-feel and good texture. Very easy drinking, the fruit leans more to plum rather than cassis.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.9+). Lovely nose that has Margaret River written all over it. Berry and cedary oak combine with dusty (though very fine) tannins to confer impressive length and mouth-feel. Needs a few years to open up, but an enjoyable wine just lacking the concentration of the great wines. Now to 10 years.

Juniper Crossing – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (16.8). Dense, plummy and earthy, with a core of ripe fruit. Savoury, almost cigar box like notes add complexity to the package. The palate is dense, slightly viscous and mouth-coating. Made in an approachable style, typical of this blend (at this price at least). This is an excellent red for a cold winter’s night and an open fire.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Knot – 2011 (16.6). More immediate appeal here. Not particularly dense, this is a lovely early-drinking red. Ripe fruit that has hints of plum. A very well made, medium-bodied wine, but in a less serious style.

Smith and Hooper – Merlot – 2009 (16.5). There is a lovely balance of fruit and spice on the nose. Mid-weight and elegant, this is a pretty wine for short term consumption. This would probably look even better with a light meal.

Oxford Landing Estate – Merlot – 2011 (15.5). Fresh strawberry, Ribena and spice on the nose. A simple, uncomplicated and fresh palate that has enough life to make it good drinking. (Did I mention the smart packaging)?

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed – 10 March 2012

There was some discussion amongst the panel as to the quality of the 2009 vintage in Margaret River. It is my view that these wines are deceptively easy to drink as the fruit is ripe and approachable. Look beyond this though and there is a fine backbone to the wines that should ensure that they age well. Perhaps, not as long lived as the 2008s, these may provide better drinking in the short to medium term.

I have commented before on how youthful many wines are these days. It was refreshing to see the Clarault from 2007 in this tasting. The extra drinkability that the bottle age confers was enough to get it over the line for a gold medal.

Reviewed

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Cellar Release – 2007 (18.5). Ticks all the boxes. Classic nose of red fruits, mint and gentle eucalypt with subtle cedary overtones. Superb palate that is refined, precise and very long. This is not a big wine, but there is latent power to the fruit. Excellent length and fine structural components. Very well made, using high quality fruit. The fact that this is such good drinking now tipped it in to the gold medal bracket.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Tight and refined nose. Cedary oak combines well with complex berries and spice. Long and dense, this has plenty of potential. I particularly liked the silky mouth-feel and excellent length. Very reserved, elegant and inviting, there is an intense core of berry fruit that carries right through the palate. An elegant wine of distinction.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 2 – 2010 (17.5 -18). Powerful nose up front with a palate that is bursting with flavour. Quite robust, this is a candidate to go along with your favourite Spaghetti Bolognese if you must drink it now. Dense, long and textured, the oak handling really suits the fruit. This is a powerful wine with great structure and it should age for many years.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.7). Another super wine here. Lovely fresh fruit on the nose and palate, with enough textural notes to make the finish very attractive. Ultimately, not as dense as the best, but a cracking effort.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Closed, but shows ripe fruit (fresh berries). A solid wine that delivers immediate pleasure with a lovely mouth-feel, good length and decent fruit weight. Not overly massaged in the winery, this is a solid effort. With air, the fruit and structure start to show through. One to watch.

Streicker – Cabernet Sauvignon – Ironstone Block – Old Vine – 2009 (17.5+). Beautiful, almost ethereal nose. This is so seductive, with perfume, red berries and plum over cedary oak. The palate appears more about primary fruit initially, though this is deceptive as the finish is very long and builds in power. This evolves in the glass and the mouth suggesting it may get higher points as it develops over time.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). This wine divided the panel, with two judges giving high silver medals. Mint, eucalypt and even a touch of insecticide all proclaim the Margaret River origins here. Dense, dark fruit that has hints of cedar and spice over lovely plum and berry fruit. There is even at touch of aniseed. In the mouth, the length and structure are stand-outs. Very fine and refined, this has excellent fruit that has been handled very well. Uncompromising, this needs time to fully express itself.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2010 (17.4). Lovely fresh fruit with hints of mint and eucalypt. Not overly serious, but attractive and elegant. Tar, spice, tannins and acid complement the quality fruit. The structure really is quite good and the finish fine and silky. This will improve for a few years making for excellent mid term drinking.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.1). Bright and forward nose with blackcurrant. The palate is flooded by sweet fruit that is reasonably complex and quite dense. Finishes well, making this an excellent mid week wine for early consumption. Good length.

Mad Fish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Premium Red – 2009 (17). A well made, if straight forward, wine. The silky finish is quite long and this may improve in the short term. Good drinking and excellent value.

Leaping Lizard – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (16.9). Quite a silky wine, with blueberry, cedar and gentle spice. Very well made, the tannins and structure are highly polished and very refined. Good length and a finish that evolves and builds. The only question was around the balance.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). A touch rustic on the nose. A sturdy wine with solid fruit. Quite juicy and fleshy, this would make an excellent pizza wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon

New Release Wine Reviews

Reviewed: 27 December 2011

The highlight for me of this tasting was the O”Leary Walker cabernet. An excellent wine that should be widely available for around $20.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2007 (18.2). Cooler region fruit on a restrained and taut nose. On the palate, this really starts to sing. There are layers of fruit combined with excellent winemaker’s inputs. This is very complex and very long, with the density of fruit a standout. The palate is refined and relatively understated now, with cedary textural notes dominating the finish. Give it ten years to see it blossom. The excellent fruit quality and winemaking provide superb length.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18). Nice wine this. Silky, ripe and perfumed fruit on the nose combine with red fruits/berries and a seamless, silky, textured and evolving finish. This has high class fruit and oak combined with excellent winemaking. This is a classy wine that, whilst very easy to drink, is very complex and age-worthy.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2009 (18). Closed. This has refined fruit, combined with excellent winemaking. Great length and a superb finish. The wine really persists in the mouth. Very refined, this needs 10 – 20 years to hit its peak.

O’Leary Walker – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18). Excellent Clare Valley fruit on display here. A combination of cooler, minty fruit characters combined with lovely ripe fruit and tannins. This is a very classy wine. Powerful fruit dominates a multifaceted and evolving palate. There are plenty of fine tannins, but these frame the fruit beautifully. A mouth-filling, succulent wine that is a relative bargain.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Suckfizzle – 2008 (18). Much cooler region fruit here, with eucalypt, tomato leaf and herbal aromas over silky fruit. The palate has fine/refined fruit of real quality. The feature for me was the refined tannins. There is no hint of greenness and they are very silky, conferring a near seamless finish. This is a very elegant wine that is typical of the style. If you like bordeaux…

Ferngrove – Malbec – 2009 (17.8). Savoury fruit with overtones of spice and earth. Follows on the palate with dense chocolate and tar flavours that coat the mouth. There are also classic insecticide notes on the finish too (trust me, this is an appealing minty character). This is quite a serious wine, with solid fruit and excellent winemaking. A silky finish courtesy of fine tannins makes this easy to enjoy now, but give it 5+ years to see it at its best.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5+). This is a wine in two parts. A straightforward, though appealing wine up front, with juicy fruit and refreshing acidity, making this a good early drink. With time and air though, the quality shone through. Quality fruit and winemaking with the structure in place to age gracefully for many years. A refined wine of some class.

Kingston Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Echelon – 2005 (17.4). A touch of development on show, making this more approachable. Dense, ripe fruit that is very textured and layered. Whilst the wine has started to soften, this is a big wine that is multifaceted. Mint and blackcurrant flood the palate, combined with ample fine tannins. Whilst not classical cabernet, this will make a great winter red over the next five years. Should be good value.

Faber Vineyard – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Real depth to the fruit, showing mulberry and blackcurrant. Finishes quite savory and the length is good. A well made wine of some charm and reasonable complexity. Drink now to five years.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Symbols – 2009 (17). Another lovely nose, with mint and eucalypt up front. Attractive fruit on the palate with fresh acidity dominating the finish at present. May improve in the short term and represents excellent value.

Laurance – Merlot – 2007 (16.7). A well made wine with juicy, plum like fruit. Not overblown, this straddles the boundary between fleshy and structured, making for a good drink now.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (NS). Very appealing nose with vibrant fruit on display. Cedary oak and firm tannins dominate the palate now, but these are not overly aggressive. I would like to try this again in a year to see how it is developing so I have not pointed it yet.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2010 (17). Plum, mulberry and mocha fruit characters combine with fine tannins and well judged oak to make this an enjoyable and appealing wine. Not as complex as the best wines here, this is, none the less, an excellent drink.

Cabernet (and Rose)

Cabernet (and Rose)

New Release

Reviewed: 20 November 2011

I have been lucky enough to drink some superb wines of late which has had me questioning the scores I give. To that end, I have adjusted my points for the lower end of the range.

So what does the change mean?

For a wine to score 15.5 and thus gain a bronze medal, the wine must be better than drinkable. It must have a degree of typicality and be well made using good quality fruit. At the top end, a gold medal (18.5) has not changed, whilst wines in between will be more spaced out.

As always, if you are reading about it in these pages, then I thought the wines were either good value or of good quality. In effect, I would be happy to have a glass of these wines.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Wilyabrup – 2009 (17.8). In a different league to everything else in the tasting. Tight and refined, with excellent fruit quality coming through. Really fine, the oak handling is spot on. This is very well made, though it needs time to open up. Has cedar, spice and hints of blackcurrant to the palate. Has great appeal, though another year or two in bottle would serve it well.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.3). Lovely wine in a cooler climate package. Supple, elegant, refined and classy. Again, dark fruits, but this is a very subtle wine that needs time. Opens to show rich and quite dense fruit.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Isolation Ridge – 2009 (17). The fruit starts off very closed, but opens with lots of air. Lovely ripe redcurrant and hints of fresh plum. I like the finish on this wine, with cedary oak and very fine tannins. The length is impressive and the fruit really builds.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Debut – 2009 (16.8). Quite deep smelling and a touch masculine. Smart wine here, with hints of chocolate over dark fruits. Excellent structure for a relatively cheap wine and the tannins have been nicely managed. A good drink.

Angove – Rose – Nine Vines – 2011 (16.4). Outrageous colour. Deeper pink and more wine like than a lot of roses. Nice combination of fruit and acid, with nice structure. This is a dry style that would be great served chilled with a plate of antipasto.

West Cape Howe – Rose – 2011 (16). Actually has some structure, body and character. Not overly sweet, with a mouth-watering finish. Good wine that will take food.

Tyrell’s – Rose – Old Winery – 2011 (15.8). Sweet fresh fruit on the nose and palate. Not a bad drink as there is enough fruit to flesh out the palate.

Houghton 175th Anniversary

Reviewed – 7 October 2011

Houghton

To celebrate their 175th birthday, the team at Houghton, led by Ross Pamment put on a tasting to showcase the quality of the wines. This involved a mini vertical tastings of the White Classic, followed by verticals of the Wisdom chardonnay, Gladstone cabernet and finally, every vintage of Jack Mann ever produced, including barrel samples of the 2010 and 2011.

The White Classic is probably the most amazing wine made in Western Australia. Its ability to age belies its humble origins. Here is a wine that often sells for less than $8.00 that benefits from 5 to 8 years in the cellar. Even on release, this is a wine that is very easy to like. For the record, it is a blend of chenin blanc/chardonnay/verdelho/semillon/muscadelle/riesling, the muscadelle coming from an old block at Moondah Brook.

The Wisdom (formerly Regional Collection) chardonnay comes from the Sterling Road vineyard in Pemberton.

The Gladstones comes from the Batley vineyard which is a mature, dry grown vineyard in Wilyabrup, planted in 1988. The exception is the 2002, the fruit for which came from the Woodlands vineyard.

The Jack Mann, like the man it is named after, is an icon. This wine is the flag bearer for all of the Frankland region. The fruit is sourced from the Justin vineyard, and the first vintage was 1994. Apparently, the vineyard was planted from cuttings from Houghton’s vineyards in the Swan Valley. The blend varies from year to year, though cabernet sauvignon is always the main grape, with small amounts of malbec +/- shiraz to fill out the wine.

We had the privilege of tasting every Jack Mann produced to date including barrel samples of the 2010 and 2011. There is no doubt in my mind, that Jack Mann is in the top five red wines produced in Western Australia.

A special thanks must go to Houghton for generously hosting this tasting.

Reviewed

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2004 (18.2). Floral notes to start then lanolin, developed caramel and spice. Has some similarity to chablis. Developed on the palate. This is quite rich and spicy. Long and textured, there is musk, pear and incense to close. More chardonnay here than is usual.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2005 (17.8). Tighter and more linear on the nose, it is the palate where this shines. Generous, round and complex. This will be the last of the museum releases.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2006 (17.7). Really fresh, with lovely perfume. This has crunchy pear on the palate, but is very youthful and tight.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2011 (17.2). This is much more in the style of an SSB. Floral, citrus, zesty, delicious. Good length and balance. Smart wine. Some of the passionfruit/tropical characters will settle down in the bottle. Unbelievably good wine for the price.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Regional Collection – 2002 (17). Lovely developed nose, with rich, complex aromas. Plenty of lees and oak, but the butterscotch fruit still shows through. Nearing the end of its life, this is a nice drink. Oak is a defining feature. The chardonnay for Wisdom comes from the Sterling Road Vineyard.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Regional Collection – 2005 (17.7). Much more restraint and poise here. This is balanced and tight, with complex worked characters developing in the mouth. Really builds intensity with time. Lovely citrus notes to close. Deliciously delicate.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Wisdom – 2007 (18). The style keeps evolving and improving. This remains restrained, but the ripe fruit is more apparent. Subtle pineapple flavours combine with lanolin, struck match and flint. It is the mineral notes that leave a lasting impression on the finish. Drinking a treat!

Houghton – Chardonnay – Wisdom – 2009 (18.3). More fragrant and spicy on the nose. Seamless palate, with really fine fruit. This is superb. Complex and tight. Taut and linear at the moment, this has a long future. This saw nine months lees contact and the percentage of new oak has been wound back.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2002 (18). Wow. Spectacular nose. Developed leather and earth over mint and eucalypt. Yes, there are some red fruit flavours, but this has so much more. The palate has black fruits, though the chalky tannins still hold back the fruit. The fruit for this wine came from the Woodlands vineyard.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2003 (18). Reserved and tight. This has cedary oak and plenty of very fine tannins. Lovely red fruits here, but not as complex as the 2002. These wines are remarkably restrained and tight. They will live a long time.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2004 (18.3). A great effort for the year. Gorgeous nose that suggests a cooler vintage. Think menthol, eucalypt and spice. The palate is very spicy, with more of the menthol characters. There are hints of tobacco, tea leaf and silky tannins. Develops great texture. A joy to drink.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2005 (18.4). Reserved. A very tight and restrained wine that is seamless. Everything is in place, but it is oh so youthful. This has great similarity to top Bordeaux and less to do with “sunshine” wines. Hints of menthol, blackcurrant and cedar. The oak is very fine grained and adds a silky texture. The mouth-feel is spot on. Elegant!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2007 (18.3). Much more fragrant fruit, reflecting the warmer year perhaps. Still shows restraint on the palate, but with much more fruit on show. The finish is still silky and tight, so I would like to see it again in a few years, but will not live as long as the 2008.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2008 (18.5). My favourite wine of the bracket. Gorgeous nose and palate. There is a degree of brightness here that is really appealing – there is almost a juiciness to the fruit. The length and mouth-feel are spot on as are the textural components. Chewy finish, but nothing is disjointed. The oak merely caresses the fruit. (Has a screw cap).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1994 (18.5). Leather, spice, menthol and licorice all in evidence on both the nose and palate. The wine is ripe, powerful, long and intense. Amazing length, in fact, an amazing wine that is at its peak.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1995 (18.4). More of the leathery notes and some forest floor and spice. Supple and succulent, this finishes with lovely leather, nutmeg and almost a touch of mocha. Super fine and elegant.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1996 (18.5). More restrained, with some mint and earthy notes. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit that is elegant and also shows supple cedary spice. Again, the length is a standout, and the slightly chalky tannins and (still) fresh acidity proved a counterpoint to the fruit. Bravo (15% shiraz).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1998 (NR). A lovely wine, but perhaps not the best bottle.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1999 (17.5). What a contrast. This is remarkably floral and fragrant. Sweet, almost candied fruit floods the palate. The acidity and tannins shut down the finish, so ultimately, the balance is probably not where I would like it to be (given the company). 30% malbec and a different style.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2000 (18.2). Super wine. This is more restrained than any of the previous wines to this point. Silky and supple, the velvety tannins and oak still dampen fruit expression. Elegant and beautifully weighted, this is on its way to being a star.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2001 (18.4). Dumb, with menthol to the fore. Menthol and spice dominate the initial palate, though the extra-ordinarily fine tannins completely shut down the finish. Again, a great wine, but it needs another decade to show its best.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2002 (18.5). More perfumed fruit. In fact, this is quite pretty. Touches of leather and spice on the palate are set against extra-ordinarily fine tannins. A special wine that is only part way through its life.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2004 (18). More menthol and earthy notes here. Leathery fruit, with a touch of dried herbs and prune. Long and textured, the mouth-feel is excellent, though the finish is drying. 2% malbec. Really savoury finish that opens up with time in the glass. Is this your style?

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2007 (18.2). Closed and tight. Classic cabernet fruit on the palate. This is just a baby, but it has great potential and some immediate appeal. Very silky tannins on the finish make this a great drink now, but that would be a shame. (Closed with a cork).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2007 (18.6). Remarkable contrast, with vibrant, youthful, red berries on the nose. Spectacularly good palate that has fresh red fruits and silky tannins. The oak is a mere hint in the background. Lovely texture and length. Super! (Closed with a screw cap).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2008 (18.7). More restrained and taut. Spectacular palate. This has coffee and tar, but there is a core of red fruits and the finish just goes on and on. I gave this 18.7 recently, and will not disagree this time.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2010 (18.5). Wow. One of the best Jack Mann to date? Amazing fruit on the nose. The palate is so complete, but very youthful. Again, the oak balance is superb. It is the length that is the stand-out. This was a barrel sample that did polarise, though I loved it!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2011 (18.5+). Hard to assess so young. Again, there is amazing fruit quality, though the textural components are still developing. Possesses a remarkable drinkability. Another great wine, but it will take a couple of years to know how great. Bench blend, so the final wine may be slightly different.

Western Australian Cabernet

Lamont’s Cottesloe

Reviewed – 30 September 2011

A few weeks ago, Brendan Jansen reviewed the Hyatt Cup, a cabernet tasting aimed to showcase and contrast the wines of Margaret River and the Great Southern. I was unable to attend due to work commitments, so when my good friend John Jens said that he wanted to try the wines himself, I made sure that I was free this time.

Winemakers/staff from Houghton, Woodlands, Cullen and Mosswood plus a couple of wine writers attended the tasting.

When you look at cabernet sauvignon based wines, Margaret River has an enviable reputation. There is no doubt in my mind that the region produces the best wines in Australia. There was some discussion around the table as to whether Margaret River could lay claim to the best cabernet in the world.

I do not try enough great Bordeauxs to make a definitive statement, but several people thought that the best WA cabernets would stand up well in a line-up of First Growths. When you factor in the cost differential ($100 v $1000+), there is no argument for me. Indeed, you can buy some of the wines reviewed below for between $30 + $50. Try finding a decent bordeaux for under $100 dollars.

Reviewed

2009

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Lovely balance and poise. This wine reeks of class. The nose has red fruits, but has more of the sour cherry aromas. The palate is very complete, with superb fruit in evidence. The oak is a touch dominant now as are the slightly chalky tannins, but time is all that is needed for this to shine. The best value wine here!

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.2+). Restrained and quite closed on the nose. The fruit is more in the black fruit spectrum. Concentrated and dense, this has layers of flavour coming from the ripe fruit and quality oak influence. The balance is spot on, as is the mouth-feel. Needs time for the silky tannins to settle, but an excellent wine for the long haul.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2009 (18+). There is just a touch of ferment notes here suggesting that the wine has not been in the bottle that long. The palate, however, is a stand-out. Textured, spicy and supple, this has a very silky mouth-feel. The fruit is very closed, but the quality is hinted at. The textural components are spot on. Destined for a long life.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alma May – 2009 (17.9). Lovely ripe fruit. Cedar, spice and fresh red fruit show cherry and strawberry highlights. The palate has cherry, spice and cedary oak. The tannins are remarkably fine and integrated for a young wine. There is excellent length of flavours and good persistence. Not as dense as some wines here, but a very pretty wine that is a lovely drink.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2009 (17.5/18.3). More of the elegant, bright red fruits as seen in the Woodlands. There is lovely sweet fruit, but the wine still needs to settle down. The palate is a bit hollow at first, but opens up to reveal more depth. A very elegant and feminine wine. Excellent balance and structure, but requires effort to get the best out of it. More Bordeaux than Margaret River.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 200 (17.5+). An almost medicinal note with menthol to the fore. Sweet vanillin oak is evident on the nose. A big wine in every sense of the word. The palate is dense and tight, though there is an abundance of berry flavours and hints of earth and spice. Very long, I would like to see this in a few years to get a better idea of where it is going.

2007

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nicholas – 2007 (18.7). This is middle of the road, blending some of the red fruits of the lighter wines with density and structure of the bigger wines. Really classy palate that is both subtle and supple. The palate is ripe and fresh and very long. Lovely mouth-feel and texture. A super wine.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2007 (18.5). Lighter, more elegant fruit. Cherry, spice, raspberry and spice. Silky and very long. A very refined wine of real class. Superb palate and the tannins are extraordinarily fine.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.5). Wow. This is a blockbuster. Spectacular ripe fruit with cigar box, menthol and a touch of savoury, salty complexity on the nose. Follows through on the palate with tremendous concentration of fruit. Yes, the oak is apparent, but it does not dominate. A super wine, but it is not shy or retiring.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.4). Bright red fruits here. This is a silky wine though the structure on the finish prevents the fruit from properly expressing itself. A really long finish with very fine tannins. This is a very classy wine and one that I would love to drink in another 5 – 10 years.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.3). Slightly cooler fruit with eucalypt and mint. The fruit is ripe and very precise in the mouth. This is an excellent example of cooler spectrum fruit. The length and texture are very good. A real contrast to the Forest Hill, but a lovely wine all the same.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2007 (18+). Balance in evidence. Ripe dense fruit on the palate. This is really fine and silky. It is not a generous wine, but there is complex fruit and superb structure. Excellent mouth-feel in a wine that will only get better.

2008

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2008 (18.7). Another beautiful wine possessing the most remarkable balance and poise. Beautifully weighted fruit combine with silky tannins and very tight, sympathetic oak to make a wine of real class and elegance. One of my favourites.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5). Seductive nose. Cooler fruit again on the palate. Very refined and excellent balance. Ripe choco-berries, this has quite cool fruit notes, but the fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and fine, this will be a star in a few years.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Shy and retiring. This is still shut down by the very fine tannins and quality oak. Textured and almost chewy, the tannins are super fine and the finish quite seamless. A really smart wine, and a highlight of the tasting.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.3). Lovely nose. There is a degree of ripeness, but there is also elegance and depth to the fruit. The palate is bright though dense. A really classy wine that has real length and finesse. The fruit really fans out on the finish. Lovely, elegant wine.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.2). Silky and refined, though without joy at first. Opens up with air. A very good wine that requires patience. Superb structure and presence, but again, not a wine for the everyday drinker.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18). Fantastic ripe fruit here. This wine has good structure and real depth to the fruit, though the acidity is a touch high now. This, however assures a long life. Silky finish.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shelley Anne – 2008 (18). Another superb wine, though perhaps a touch lighter bodied than some here. Pretty fruit combine with skilled winemaking. Excellent medium term drinking.

 

© 2009 – 2013 Fine Wine Club

New Release Cabernet and Riesling

Reviewed – 6 September 2011

One thing that really struck me with this tasting was how tight cabernet sauvignon can be. A tasting of 15 shiraz would deliver a number of aromatic or savoury wines with instant appeal. With this tasting however, I found myself going back to the wines several times over 3 days watching their development. With each passing day, my enjoyment of the wines increased.

With time in the bottle, the fruit became much more accessible and the tannins softer. No doubt, these will cellar well.

The rieslings reviewed were much more approachable, though the best will age for 15 years.

Reviewed

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2010 (18). The nose is floral, with fresh, lemony fruit. There is a touch of pear skin too. Fresh, zingy acid, with steely lime fruit running through the palate. Impressive length and line. A lovely wine that ticks all the boxes. Good now, but better in ten years.

Talisman – Riesling – 2011 (17.2). Gentle floral fruit on the nose. This is very approachable now, but with enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Good length and intensity, and the fruit really builds in the mouth. The best drinking in this group now, though this will still age well in the medium term.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – 2011 (17). Musk, lime juice and lavender on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant, though there is a degree of restraint courtesy of the fresh acid. An enjoyable wine that builds intensity.

d’Arenberg – Riesling – The Stump Jump – 2009 (16.7). Unusually tropical in its outlook, with plenty of passionfruit and citrus. Rounded and approachable, this wine represents very good value.

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Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2008 (18.3). Intense fruit on the nose! Blackcurrant, menthol and a touch of perfume. Perhaps a touch of violets even. Fantastic fruit on the palate. This is virtually seamless and very intense. The quality fruit has absorbed the fine grained oak with ease. The finish is tight courtesy of the oak and silky tannins, so give it air or ten years in the cellar. This is in the cooler spectrum, so it is not everyone’s cup of tea. I loved it!

Ferngrove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – The Stirlings – 2008 (18.2). More fruit intensity here. Lovely palate with cedar, spice and fresh fennel. Long and very intense, this has excellent structure and mouth-feel. Really builds in the mouth, with the shiraz adding some licorice components to the finish. This is an excellent wine that will benefit from at least ten years in the cellar.

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nest Egg – 2009 (18). Classically cabernet. Cooler region characters on display, with subtle eucalypt, herb and menthol. Mouth-filling, dense and quite rich, this is an easy wine to like. The length is excellent and the dense, ripe fruit floods the middle palate. Fine oak adds structure. Took days to open up and will last for many years.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (18). An angular wine that lacks generosity at first. Mint, mortien, capsicum and tomato leaf on the nose, Very intense, powerful and textured. This really blossomed over a few days. Great wine, just give it time.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2009 (17.6). Seductive. Ripe and succulent fruit that is varietally correct, but more generous than some on display here. Some of the minty notes have been replaced by ripe, almost plumy, fruit. Good length and intensity, in a more approachable style. Enjoyable now or in 8 years. A pretty wine with plenty of appeal.

Chapel Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17+). Surprisingly cool region fruit notes on the nose, with capsicum and a touch of insecticide. Sour cherry and Satsuma plum flood the palate. Intense and focused, this is a wine of some power and structure. Plum and menthol to close. Not mainstream, but with significant charm.

Forester – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17). Taut, fine, dense and reserved. This has dense, quality fruit and slick winemaking. It needs 5 years to start to show its best. A souring finish makes this a great choice with food if you are going to drink it now.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hyland – 2009 (16.8). More straightforward red fruits on the nose. The palate is forward and ripe, though there is remarkable balance and structure for a wine of this price. Delivers plenty of joy.

d’Arenberg – Cabernet Sauvignon – The High Trellis – 2009 (16.7). Enticing nose that is both restrained, yet displaying lovely ripe plumy fruit. The palate is fruit driven, with some fruit weight. Not the longest, but very approachable. From a warmer region, this has more ripe fruit and less mint/herbal notes as compared to the Western Australian wines here.

The Perth Hyatt Cup 2011

23 August 2011

By

Dr Brendan Jansen

As I walked into the foyer of the Hyatt Hotel and asked for the location of the 2nd annual Perth Hyatt Cup, I felt a little as though I was asking about a horseracing event. The equine comparison turned out to be in some ways apt, as I shall return to later.

The Hyatt Cup began last year, a competition to showcase the best of Western Australia’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet dominant Bordeaux blends. Punters (attendees) taste the wines selected blind, and then rate them, with wines selected from either the Margaret River or Great Southern regions. Points are collated and the results made known at the end of each bracket. This year, the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages were featured. For my general thoughts about the greatness of WA (and Margaret River in particular) Cabernet, please refer to http://wineup.wordpress.com/2011/07/20/margaret-river-and-its-affinity-with-cabernet-sauvignon/

On the expert panel providing commentary were esteemed WA winemakers and industry pioneers Dr Bill Pannell (founder of Moss Wood, now of Picardy), Keith Mugford (Moss Wood), Rob Bowen (Domaines and Vineyards, formerly Chief Winemaker at Houghton’s) and Kim Horton (Ferngrove). 19 wines were pre-poured, in brackets of 6 or 7. We began with the 2009 vintage, moved to the 2007, and finished with 2008. The list of wines follows.

2007

  • Cullen – Diana Madeline
  • Cape Mentelle
  • Moss Wood
  • Houghton – Jack Mann
  • Forrest Hill
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie

2008

  • Woodlands – Shelley Anne
  • Vasse Felix – Heytesbury
  • Cape Mentelle
  • Houghton – Jack Mann
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie
  • Houghton – CW Ferguson
  • Moss Wood

2009

  • Woodlands – Alma May
  • Fraser Gallop
  • Cullen – Diana Madeline
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie
  • Ferngrove – Majestic
  • K & B

From the first bracket, discussion ensued as to whether there was ‘typicity’ in the wines of each region that would allow them to be identified. Kim Horton suggested there may be, with cool climate features and a different quality of tannins setting the Great Southern wines apart. (Amy Burch echoed from the floor that differences in average daytime temperatures were indeed significant between the two regions).

Keith Mugford did not fully agree that regional differences were easily picked, especially with the 2009 bracket, suggesting that if indeed there was a difference in terroir, this was trumped by winemaking – use of oak, timing of picking, extent of extraction – and in ripe vintages (as all 3 vintages were), where achieving full phenolic ripeness is not an issue, “the hand of Man was more important than the hand of God”.

I agree with Keith Mugford’s comments – perhaps the choice of wines in this year’s competition for the 2009 vintage in question reflected winemaking more than terroir. And here it is appropriate to return to the horse racing analogy, perhaps “training” was more important than “pedigree” in these particular thoroughbreds.

The terroir argument received more support, however, in the second and third brackets (2007 and 2008 vintages), in that it was easier to detect regional differences, perhaps also reflecting the wines chosen (but also possibly reflecting the brilliant conditions in 2008 in particular, prompting Bill Pannell to declare that in some amazing years, wines just make themselves!) Kim Horton and Rob Bowen insightfully pointed out that the Great Southern region was also made up of very heterogenous terroirs– with Mt Barker and Frankland being very different in terms of rainfall, and as a consequence, vine vigour (with the latter subregion being drier).

Dr Pannell provided an eloquent critique of the show system, suggesting palate fatigue played a part in bigger, fuller styles gaining credit over lighter bodied, more elegant wines. He also made insightful comments about the perhaps bogus task of trying to pick a winner between the two regions. He cited the Rhone Valley, and Cote Rotie and Hermitage in particular, as examples of extremely high quality appellations, commanding equally high prices, but with very different styles. Perhaps we should trust our palates, and choose our favourites according to the style we prefer!

I for one enjoy Cabernets that are of medium body, which are varietally faithful, have all the hallmarks of Cabernet (like tomato leaf, capsicum, cassis, and cigar box when a few years old), complemented but not overly encumbered by oak, with fine, dusty but ripe (not green) tannins, good acid and the structure to allow aging. I say this as a preface to sharing my favourite wines of the tasting, as all the wines selected were of superlative quality, and my preferences simply reflect, well, my preferences.

For what it’s worth, these are the wines I awarded my highest points to, with a brief tasting note:

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Wow! Opulent, stewed (but not over-ripe) fruit characters, varietally spot on, with nicely developed tannins on the front palate.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18.25). Layers and layers of rich cassis, dense, rich, with chocolatey oak. Great length and all elements in balance.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18,75). Still dominated by chocolatey/mocha oak, this wine had amazing depth, palate reach, and flavours that just went on and on. Superb ripe tannin structure allied to liquorice, plum, blackcurrant and boysenberry. (The Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 also brilliant, but young and tight – 18.25 pts).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.75). On the money. Dusty tannins, tomato leaf, capsicum, some development with cigar box and tobacco, ripe cassis fruit, beautiful medium palate weight, persistence and tannin structure. (I gave the Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 18.5 pts also).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shelley Anne – 2008 (18.75). Beautiful and beguiling. Like a gentle kiss, warms your cheek for a good time after. Dense, complex and displaying currant, berry, cherry and mint, it had superlative length, and a lovely tannin structure. My wine of the night. (The Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alma May – 2009 , not released for another year, is also a cracker – 18.25 pts).

So what were the results? Well, Margaret River came out on top – by a whisker – amongst both the tasters and the expert panel. In the end, though, the difference was far from being statistically significant, and the real winners were Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Australia, and those of us lucky enough to enjoy these wines!

John Jens and the Hyatt should be congratulated for putting on such a stellar event, and at such a bargain price. John should get a special mention for his tireless attempts at promoting WA wine, and Cabernet in particular.

If you get the chance to attend next year, go for it! I’ll bet in you having a great night!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Coonawarra Barrel Series 14

2010 Vintage

22 July 2011

Each year, the Coonawarra Vignerons Association holds a dinner and wine auction as part of their Coonawarra Cabernet Celebration. Seven of Coonawarra’s best wine producers each provide a single barrel of wine that is sold on the night. In previous years, you could purchase a minimum of five cases from any barrel. So get a few friends together and start bidding.

So to the wines. There is only one word I would use to describe these wines – remarkable. As a collection, the quality of the wines is outstanding. There really is no weak link, though the styles do vary from one producer to another. Due to the unfinished nature of the wines, I am not awarding points, though they all would have scored 17.75 to 18.5+.

A special thanks to Max Veenhuyzen for kindly arranging this tasting.

Reviewed

Brands Laira – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. The colour is a standout. The fruit on the nose is actually seductive and quite feminine. The palate is powerful, though the fruit is totally shut down by the (balanced) structural components. Give it time.

Katnook – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. More balanced fruit on the nose, managing to integrate the fruit and structural components well. Powerful fruit, but incredible balance for an immature wine. Again, the quality French oak dominates the finish, but this is very fine grained. This will be superb and is, undoubtedly, one of the stars!

Lindermans – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Menthol, blackcurrant and cedar lead off on the nose. Sweet red fruits on the palate that are held back by fine, austere tannins. Really builds and shows great promise.

Majella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Gorgeous colour. The nose is redolent of fragrant, high quality fruit. The palate is quite raw and the oak is a touch dominant, though there is a core of blackcurrant and cedary spice running through the finish. Impressive length. The most immature tasting wine here that needs a few years to come together, but it will blossom.

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Silky, yet restrained fruit on the nose. Firm, structured, medium bodied and elegant, this is the sleeper of the tasting. Excellent length of flavours, with fine tannins to close. A polished wine.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Menzies – Barrel Series – 2010. More of the peppermint and menthol that I have come to expect from Coonawarra. Silky, supple and fine, this is an exercise in restraint. Excellent balance and length make this a very good barrel.

Wynns Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Impenetrable nose. Whilst this is one of the most refined wines tasted, the nose gives little away. Silky and remarkably well integrated, the fruit/oak balance is spot on. Excellent fruit handled with skill, this is a wine for the long haul.

Zema Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Series – 2010. Dusty and less integrated than the Katnook. Again, the fruit quality is superb and the structure is spot on. It just needs time to settle down. Great length of flavour on the palate and there was plenty of peppermint and chocolate, typical of a classic Coonawarra cabernet.

Western Australian Cabernet

Reviewed 23 June 2011

Over a period of four days, I reviewed almost 80 cabernet based wines. I have already reviewed some elsewhere, so hear is a cross-section of some of the others.

Reviewed

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Lovely nose that is a blend of red fruits and mint/eucalypt. Displaying obvious cooler region characters, this has promise. Long and fine, with silky tannins. Will take years for the fruit to come out. One for the lovers of Bordeaux.

Woody Nook Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gallaghers Choice – 2009 (18+). Structured and dense, this offers little on the nose right now. The palate shows excellent fruit quality and slick winemaking. Structure and length are spot on. The mint, eucalypt and herbal notes suggest a cooler region. Give it a few years.

Credaro Family Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). The key to this wine is its balance. Ripe fruit, skilled winemaking and quality oak all evident. The fruit really is good and the slightly chewy tannins are very fine. Could develop into a star.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – The Scholar – 2008 (17.9). There is a core of ripe fruit here, with a seductive and quite beautiful nose. A superb palate follows that has ripe fruit and textural components. A fine wine with excellent balance. Well made.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.8). Closed and reserved right now. A very fine wine in the mould of Cullens. Has extraordinary finesse and length, with very silky and refined tannins. Really opens to show lovely mouth-feel and fruit.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.7). A solid wine with a core of dense, ripe fruit. This is quite complex and well made. The length and complexity on the palate are notable. Fine cabernet fruit, this is complex and very long. A smart wine with lovely red fruit.

Brown Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Great Boulder – 2008 (17.5). More restrained nose with hints of blackcurrent and raspberry. The palate is very structured. Long and fine with quality fruit and winemaking on show.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). A powerful wine of some note. Masculine, though there are hints of quality fruit. Builds in the mouth. Excellent oak and winemaking. in a very structured package.

St Aidens – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17.3+). A very pretty nose that has floral notes. The palate has vibrant red fruits, with enough tannins and acidity to keep it fresh.

Wills Domain – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17+). Too young to assess, but this has good fruit in an approachable package. Genuine length of flavour and good mouth-feel make this a good prospect.

Rosabrook – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). Shows more fruit intensity than some, combined with solid winemaking. This offers plenty of appeal, but needs a year or two to settle down. Smart wine.

Wignalls – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). Took its time, but this opened up to show pretty fruit and good length of flavours.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17). A lovely nose here. Refined and elegant, this has ripe fruits at the heart of it. The palate has super-sweet fruit. This is made to drink now and offers plenty of appeal

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2009 (17). Closed and tight nose. Quality fruit that is dense yet refined. Good length of flavour and nice mouth-feel. The quality oak is notable on the finish, but does not detract.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). Ripe and plump fruit, with good fruit weight and mouth-feel. Suitable for early consumption, this is juicy and generous.