Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

March 2017 – New Release Shiraz

March 2017 – New Release Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 1st April 2017

A few weeks back, I wrote about the Chardonnays from Bird in Hand, which were most impressive. In this tasting, their Shiraz was the star. Whilst it would be easy to recommend their uber-premium M.A.C. Shiraz at $350/bottle, their standard Shiraz is a standout at $35.

The panel tried a number of wines from Penley Estate. Again, it was the less expensive wines in the range that stood out on the quality/value scale.

Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Adelaide Hills – 2015 (18.5pts – $35). Wow, this is an impressive wine. There is an explosion of concentrated, almost inky fruit, with menthol and aniseed notes over a core of ripe, textured fruit. This is powerful and complex, the flavours coming in layers on the palate. The vanillin oak and tannins are well managed, whilst the acidity has been deftly managed. Great stuff!

Hollick – Shiraz – 2014 (18pts – $25). The bright, quality fruit is a highlight (ripe plum and spice notes) as is the supple mouth-feel (fine texture, lingering tannins, cedary oak and excellent length). This wine received unanimous praise from the panel for its balance and supple mouth-feel. Approachable now, but surely worthy of a few years in the cellar.

Salomon – Shiraz – Fleurieu – 2014 (18pts) Elegant, pretty and refined wine that has excellent balance. The lighter berry fruit characters sit well with the polished tannins. Deceptive, as this is long and quite serious, yet it slips down with ease.

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Hyland – 2014 (17.9pts – $30). Menthol and red currant/berries to the fore on the nose, carrying through to the palate. Again, medium bodied and not overly complex, but will develop well over the next 5 – 8 years. Fine tannins add to the mouth-feel, whilst the oak is barely perceptible. ($23 from Nicks).

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Atlas – 2014 (17.8pts – $20). Lovely nose of ripe berries and blood plum over white pepper and spice. The palate is almost plush initially, with the tannins kicking in on the close. There is a family resemblance to the Hyland, with red currant developing in the glass. This is an exciting wine for the price.

Juniper Estate – Shiraz – Crossing – 2015 (17.8pts – $23). There is a degree of plushness to the plum fruit that is very attractive, aided by supple spice notes. The spice continues on the palate, with the plum flavours carrying right to the close. Fine tannins and oak add to the appeal, pairing well with the mid-weight fruit. Will partner roast meats well. A modern, well-made wine that will be excellent value drinking over the next 5 years.

Flametree – Shiraz – 2015 (17.7pts) A riper, richer wine than many from Margaret River, with cedary oak, firm tannins and chewy texture. Clean and bright, this remains balanced and focussed, though this would benefit from a few years to settle down.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Flint Rock – 2014 (17.7pts – $28). Quality fruit here, though quite closed and inky. The menthol and plum/berry notes build with air. The palate is long and textured, with minimal oak apparent. The fresh acidity ensures that this will be a great match with food now, or on its own over the next 10 years.

Wynns – Shiraz – Coonawarra – 2015 (17.7pts – $25). Another fine wine from this illustrious label. Restrained and well made, the red berry and menthol characters building in the glass. On the palate the fresh acidity is the main feature now, but there are ripe fruit characters underneath. Good line and length, this would be good with a rich Bolognese, but is sure to age well for 10+ years. Ridiculous value at under $14 from Dan Murphy.

Ad Hoc – Shiraz – Middle of Everywhere – 2015 (17.6pts – $21). Pretty ripe berries on the nose, with redcurrant and supple spice building on the palate. The fine tannins and restrained oak contribute to a silky mouth-feel, which is very moreish. An attractive wine that is so easy to drink now.

The Lane – Shiraz – Block 5 – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Ripe fruit in the plum spectrum. The palate is silky and refined. Only medium bodied, but excellent drinking. The souring acidity ensuring that this will pair with food well.

Deep Woods – Shiraz/Malbec/Grenache – Et Al – 2014 (17pts – $20). Intense fruit in the blueberry spectrum. Textured and slightly chewy, the tannins tighten on the finish. An honest red wine that provides uncomplicated drinking.

Champagne and more: March new release

Champagne and more: March new release

Barry Weinman: 17th March 2017

We had the opportunity to taste through a small selection of Argentinian wines and was very impressed with the quality/price equation. These are well-made wines that represent decent value.

Whilst at it, we looked at a couple of vintage Champagnes. I will recommend the Moet & Chandon over the Veuve, even thought the latter is the better wine. The reason for this is that the Moet is better drinking now, and is being discounted ($85 from Vintage Cellars).

The Cape Mentelle Cabernet is nothing short of exceptional. The 2014 seems more accessible than any of the previous few vintages, perhaps reflecting a subtle change in style from the new chief winemaker.

Reviewed

Moet & Chandon – Grand Vintage -2008 (18.3+pts – $100). Fresh stone fruits, with lifted lemon zest notes. Quite rich in the mouth, with complex lees/yeast notes just starting to poke through. A touch of astringent lemon pith/rind on the finish keeps the palate fresh and alive. Will develop more complexity for a few years, but delicious now.

Veuve Clicquot – 2008 (18.6+pts -$110). More delicate and refined, the balance and poise here are outstanding. The presence in the mouth is excellent, with layers of flavour and texture building on a finish that is very long and fine. Minerals and lime acidity linger on the finish. A superb wine that will age brilliantly, but would be great with oysters now.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.7pts – $110). Very pretty and elegant on the nose with blueberry and blackcurrant fruit. The palate is lithe and supple, with great balance and finesse. The fruit here is almost delicate, and the winemaking perfectly matched to the fruit weight. An outstanding wine that is more approachable now than most recent vintages.

las perdices – Malbec – 2015 (17.5pts – $21). Pretty, ripe plum and berry fruit, with licorice and spice notes. The palate is nicely textured, with the accessible fruit sitting nicely within the structural components. Made for short-term drinking, this is a great alternative to Shiraz and would work a treat with BBQ meats.

San Gimignano – Malbec – Roble – 2012 (17.8pts – $35). Resinous oak notes are apparent on the nose, but are not overwhelming. The palate is rich, with ripe blueberry fruit the main feature. The oak adds plushness to the mid palate, whilst the fine tannins linger. Stylistically, this reminds me of McLaren Vale. A smart wine that could be drunk now – 10 years. Spent 12 months in new French and American oak.

Carinae – Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Cuvee Brigitte – 2013 (18pts – $37). More structured and tannic, with cool fruit characters held tightly in check. Excellent fruit quality and mouth-feel, with flavours lingering to the finish. Give it time and it will be a very smart wine, but is too young now.

las perdices – Cabernet Franc – Ala Colorada – 2012 (18.3pts – $40). Pure fruit that is fragrant and pretty. There is a stylistic resemblance to their Malbec, but the fruit characters are quite different. This is a smart wine, with supple oak and soft, lingering tannins. Really well made, this spends 12 months in new French oak.

Ribafreixo – Portugal

Wines of Portugal

Barry Weinman: 15th March 2017

Port, the fortified wine of Portugal, needs no introduction. It is considered one of the world’s great wine styles.

Portugal’s table wines on the other hand are relatively unknown in Australia. I can only ever remember trying one red wine.

The winery Ribafreixo is a relative new comer in Portugal, with the project starting in 2007. The winery produces wines under four separate labels. Pato Frio, Barrancoa, Connections and Guadio and covers both red and white varieties. All wines are from Alentejo in the region of Vidigueira.

The local distributor is Paulo Forjaz from Luso Gourmet, and the wines are sensibly priced, to allow consumers to try some interesting and worthwhile wines, without breaking the bank.

Many of the reds feature the grape Aragonez in the blend. This is a local name for the Spanish variety Tempranillo. Originating in Southern France, Alicante Bousc het is another variety that features widely in Alentejo. Of interest, this is one of the few wine grapes with red flesh (and juice).

My initial impression is that the reds are the pick, though there is a refreshing Verdelho that would be an excellent summer drink.

Distribution is limited at present, so try one of the local independent stores, or contact Luso Gourmet for stockists.

Reviewed

Gaudio – Verdelho – 2015 (17.3pts – $18). Really interesting, with excellent balance. The grassy fruit has lanolin and melon notes, complemented by a core of refreshing acidity. Great summer drinking with light food, or by itself.

Barrancoa – Aragonez/Trincadeira/Alicante Bouschet – 2013 (17pts – $17). A well made wine, with plump fruit building in the glass and gentle herbal notes. The palate has souring acidity and drying tannins, and gets slightly chewy on a finish that is quite long. Made as a food wine.

Pato Frio – Aragonez/Alfocheiro/Alicante Bouschet – Red Edition – 2013 (17.5pts – $25). Old-world structure here, where the fruit characters are initially muted. The ripeness of the fruit is more apparent on the palate, where it is matched to taut structure The acidity carries the finish and gives life. Really needs food, and will complement quite rich foods. Well made.

Gaudio – Touriga National/Alicante Boushet/Aragonez/ Tinta Miuda – Classico – 2013 (17.8 – 18.2pts – $28). More fragrant, with the ripe fruit showing some pretty berry notes. The palate is defined by the angular acidity, with a vein of minerality and tannins driving through to the finish. Almost Bordeaux-like in structure, this is a smart, age-worthy wine. Closed and tight, this spends 9 months in French Oak.

Current and New Release – Summer 2017

Current and New Release – Summer 2017

Barry Weinman: 28 February 2017

Every now and then, a wine surprises you for being far better than expected. This was the case with the Thomas Block Chardonnay from Paxton. McLaren vale is famous for its rich, ripe Shiraz, but here is a taut, structural Chardonnay that is really very good.

As expected the new release Kevin John Chardonnay from Cullen was impressive, but it was the Nest Egg Chardonnay from Bird in Hand that topped the tasting. I tried this again with a group of wine friends over dinner, and this was preferred to some big names from Australia and Burgundy. Expensive, but worth the money.

Finally, whilst it is not new release, the Vasse Felix Cabernet is a star. A brilliant wine and good value compared to some of the big names from Margaret River.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Prima – 2016 (17.5pts – $26).   There are honeyed notes along with a touch of ripe pear and gentle toast leading to a textural, rich palate. Moderate residual sugar (25 gm/l) is balanced by decent acidity. Lacks the ultimate drive on the palate of the best German Kabinetts, but this wine gets extra points for being a delicious drink.

Weingut Kloster Ebernach – Riesling – Mosel – Domane MC – Feinherb – 2015 (18.2pts – N/A). Bright, focused and razor sharp, this is an excellent Riesling. There is a nervous energy on the palate, with the lime and mineral characters performing on a stage of taut acidity. Excellent length to close. Not yet available in Australia.

Weingut Kloster Ebernach – Pinot Blanc – Mosel – Domane MC – 2015 (18pts). Delicious wine from this underrated grape. Bright fruit (citrus, stone fruit and even a touch of pineapple) is balanced by fresh acidity. The fruit lingers on a very long palate. Morish, the residual sugar is perfectly matched to fruit and acidity.

Bird in Hand – Chardonnay – Nest Egg – 2015 (18.5pts -$79). Powerful dense wine with ripe fruit married to toasted oak and lees/barrel ferment characters. The palate is textural, rich and balanced. Made in a more traditional, easily accessible style, showcasing the Adelaide Hills fruit. A brilliant drink right now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2015 (18.5pts). This is quite accessible, with the fruit on the nose the main focus. The palate is full, round and powerful with the pineapple (Mendoza clone) and marmalade fruit framed by complex winemaking inputs including struck match minerality and tight French oak. Seamless, this is a lovely wine now – 5 years.

Arivina Estate – Chardonnay – Wildwood Ridge Reserve – 2015 (18.3pts). Opens with   gentle peach and melon aromas that build in the glass. Creamy, textured, fine and supple, this is an elegant, almost delicate wine that will build presence over a number of years.

Paxton – Chardonnay – Thomas Block – 2015 (18pts+ – $34). (Organic). Complex, dense fruit on the nose. The palate is taut and firm, the fruit sitting behind the structural components. The balance is noteworthy. The oak and winemaking components tightly bind the fruit, the latter sitting dormant and needing some time in bottle to express itself fully. A truly impressive wine from McLaren Vale.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium (Gold Capsule) – 2013. (18.5pts+). A complex nose, with dense, ripe, precise fruit. Menthol, blueberry, liquorice and eucalypt notes are balanced by texturing oak. Very long, fine and elegant, this will age well for 15 years +.

New World Pinot Noir

 

New World Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 20th February 2017

I had a call from a friend recently saying that he was dropping around some wines for me to try. These turned out to be sixteen highly regarded new world Pinots. This was a brilliant way to end a tiring day.

It was a very hot day in Perth and the wines were a little warm, so I popped them into an ice bucket for 20 minutes, just to bring the temperature down a little. Tasting red wine at 15 degrees is so much better than trying them at 25, especially as they tend to warm up in the glass once poured.

The Ata Rangi was the highlight, a stunning wine that is sure to age very well. (The 2002 is drinking a treat now). The Block 5 from Felton Road equally impressive, as was the Paradigm Hill. All amazing wines.

At a completely different price point, the Picardy was the sweet spot in the tasting for price/quality, whilst the Eddystone Point is an affordable entry point into the charms of Pinot Noir.

Reviewed

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18.8). Everything is in balance here. The complex, deep smelling fruit, polished tannins, fine-balanced acidity and textural oak all sit beautifully on the near-seamless palate. A master-stroke of restraint, yet with latent power that will build with time in the glass. A magical wine, with fine, dense fruit. Powerful, yet restrained, this is a tight/sinewy wine. An iron fist in a velvet glove would be one way to describe this wine Why don’t more people make Pinot in Martinborough? (Served from magnum).

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 5 – 2015 (18.7pts $122). Closed on the nose initially. The palate is tight, yet with air, layers of flavour and texture build and evolve. A monumental effort as, despite the power of the fruit, this remains elegant, balanced and finely structured. The flavours linger for minutes, with the fruit and structure playing off each other right to the close, making for a superb drink. (Served from Double Magnum).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Worri Yallock – 2015 (18.5pts). There is more depth to the fruit here, with the winemaking inputs playing a minor supporting role on both the nose and palate. The dense, high quality fruit is a highlight, carrying the entire length of the palate. An impressive wine that needs several years for the fruit to open, but the potential is there (cork seal).

Paradigm Hill – Pinot Noir – L’ami sage – 2014 (18.5pts). Gentle cherry fruit and spice, thought the fruit does not really feature here and is not missed. This is a textural treat, with the fruit bound by the winemaking inputs and oak, making this near irresistible. Wonderful structure and depth, the fine tannins are a highlight. Will open up with a few years in bottle. The Diam closure is a safe bet.

Marchand & Burch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow (Mt Barker) – 2016 (18.3+pts – RRP $60). Opens with a pretty, almost delicate nose, that despite its youth, is quite full/complex. The palate is an amalgam of strawberries, cherries, plum, tobacco and spice. Really quite delicious, this dances in the mouth. The acid, tannins and M   oak hold back the fruit on the finish somewhat, but this has everything in place to shine with short-term cellaring (and achieve potentially higher points).

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Aroha – Te Muna – 2013 (18-18.5pts – $120). Very attractive nose, where the complex fruit is complemented by gentle earthy/herbal notes. The palate is more restrained and linear, the tannins, oak and fine acidity conspiring to keep the fruit in check. Delicate for central Otago, with impressive structure, this will do even better with a couple of years in bottle (cork closure).

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18pts). I like the forward, generous fruit on the nose. Continues onto the palate, where the fruit is complemented by fine tannins and balanced acidity. This is a serious wine that is really quite good. The mouth-feel builds with air, and a touch of grip adds depth (cork closure).

Mac Forbes – Pinot Noir – Hoddles Creek – 2015 (18pts). Very attractive nose, with the fragrant berries set against a backdrop of complex herbal characters. On the palate, the cool fruit is slightly suppressed, with the winemaking influences (whole bunch fermentation) carrying the length of the palate. Needs a couple of years to flesh out, but will be a great accompaniment to roast meats. I love the Adreaseal closure.

Eddystone Point – Pinot Noir – 2015 (17.5pts). Pretty, floral fruit, supple structure and fine acidity make this an excellent drink. The bright cherry and plum-like fruit has moderate complexity, with the oak adding texture and depth. A couple of years would not hurt either.

Australian Sparkling Wine

 

Australian Sparkling Wine

Barry Weinman: 7th February 2017

The attrition rate for this tasting was very high, with only four wines making it to this review.

The premium Heemskerk is particularly worthy of attention. A very elegant wine that is full of refinement.

I was also very impressed with the Seppelt. This is a decent Shiraz, with the bubbles adding life. An Australian classic that is sure to cellar well for a decade.

Reviewed

Heemskerk – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – 2011 (18pts – $60). A most elegant wine, with subtle complexity. The palate is precise and linear, with excellent mouth-feel and racy acidity. Refined and fine, the fruit builds on the finish. This would benefit from a couple of years’ bottle age. Fine Australian bubbles. (Great packaging!).

Seppelt – Shiraz – Original Sparkling – 2013 (17.8pts). Smells like a decent Shiraz, tastes like a decent Shiraz. Excellent fruit, with liquorice and chocolate notes. The dosage is restrained, allowing the fruit to be the main focus. Excellent length of flavours on the palate. Great with a steak over summer, or cellar for more complexity.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV. (17.5pts). Quite complex and powerful on the nose, with toasty autolysis characters. The palate has decent weight and fruit richness, whilst the depth and length of flavours impress. This is a good effort and worth trying.

Heemskerk – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – Able’s Tempest – NV (17.5pts – $32). Pale. I like the floral/apple blossom fruit that is balanced by fresh acidity. Subtle, long and fine, this is a smart wine.

New Release – Mixed

New Release – Mixed.

Barry Weinman: 2nd February 2017

This tasting showcased excellent value wines at various price points. From the ridiculously cheap Angove, the smartly priced Polguern Estate, to the (relatively) good value imports from Salomon, these are wines that you can afford to drink whenever the mood takes you.

Reviewed

Salomon – Gruner Veltliner – Wieden & Berg – Kremestal Dac – 2015 (17.7pts – $35). Complex, with apricot, almond aromas and tight minerality. Hints of spice lead to a textural palate that is very long, with superb balance. Builds and evolves in the mouth. An excellent wine that deserves attention and possibly bottle age.

Salomon – Gruner Veltliner – Wachtberg – Kremestal Dac – 1er Cru – 2015. (18+pts – $45). A touch more floral, with pretty stone fruit notes. The palate is a little shy initially, with zesty acidity and a strong vein of minerality. Opens with air and gets quite textured on the close. A serious wine that needs time to fully express itself.

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2016 (17pts – $10). Floral nose with passionfruit and tropical notes. The palate is vibrant, with a touch of minerals and a slight phenolic oiliness. Generous, this is a brilliant value off-dry Riesling.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2015 (17.6pts – $10). Pretty fruit on the nose. The palate is precise and focused, with a core of dark, blueberry fruit matched to supple oak. The tannins and acid are very well integrated, making for a polished, sophisticated wine of some charm. May even get better with a couple of years in bottle.

Polguern Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Pharaoh’s Tribute – 2014   (17.8pts – $20). Pretty red currant fruit, with tobacco, blackcurrant and spice. Repeats on the palate, though this is tight and closed right now. A seriously made wine that will be a cracker in 10 years. Great value from Roleystone

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2015 (17.3pts -$17). A delicious, fruit forward style with licorice, coffee/mocha and plummy fruit. Good length and mouth-feel to close. Excellent value BBQ red.

Chardonnay – New Release

 

Chardonnay – New Release

Barry Weinman: 27th January 2017

If on a tight budget, I would focus on Riesling for my cellar given the superb value and ageing potential on offer. If money was not a barrier, and I had to choose one white wine to have in my cellar, it would be Chardonnay. The wine’s style can vary from lively and racy, to elegant and refined, then all the way to rich and powerful.

This tasting provided several excellent wines, in a variety of styles. The Howard Park Miamup is refreshing and easy to drink, as is the excellent value Wynns. The Marchand & Burch is very refined and elegant in the modern style.

Sitting firmly in the middle ground are the excellent wines from Xanadu and Deep Woods. These are world-class wines. The Il Liris by Castelli and the Comus by comparison are powerful, textural wines with plenty of winemaking inputs.

Reviewed

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongorup & Mount Barker – 2016. (18.5+pts- $73). A superb wine from the team at Howard Park. Elegant, refined, balanced, supple and long, with fine lemony acidity and a core of minerality. Very new world and modern, but avoids being overly lean. The balance is excellent, with the high quality fruit absorbing the oak with ease.

Deep Woods – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015 (18.5pts – $46). Wonderful wine! Very complex with hints of tropical fruit over melon and citrus notes. Powerful, though the palate is quite restrained and fine. Minerality builds, whilst the length, depth and slightly chewy texture add to the enjoyment. Now to 5 years, served with seared scallops.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.5pts – $33). Very complex and powerful, with peach, apricot and hints of tropical fruit. The palate has minerality, curry leaf/ struck match with great depth and texture. Very long, the fruit lingers for what seems like minutes. A Burgundian style of some note, and excellent value. Simply grilled pork.

Castelli – Chardonnay – Il Liris – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $70). Complex worked characters, with struck match and curry-leaf minerality. Flows through to a palate that is textured, complex and very long. A rich wine that would be superb with roast turkey, though it is an individualistic style. Great packaging with a distinctive bottle shape and glass stopper.

Comus – Chardonnay – Ferguson Valley – 2014 (18pts). Powerful fruit married with complex winemaking techniques. Minerals, struck match, citrus, pineapple, stone fruit all jostle for attention. A high intensity, individualistic wine that is a standout. Impressive packaging.

Castelli – Chardonnay – 2015 (17.8pts – $32). Hints of melon, grapefruit and stone fruit. Creamy, yet fresh, with bright acidity the main feature on the palate. The fruit and minerality builds with air. This is a restrained modern style that may benefit from a few years for allow the fruit to open. Less overt than the Il Liris.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Miamup – 2016 (17.8pts – $28). A lithe wine that, while modern in style, has enough depth to the fruit to make it approachable now. The textural palate and quite complex fruit is rounded out by creamy oak, with lively refined acidity adding drive. No food required, just a sunny afternoon.

Wynns – Chardonnay – 2015. (17.5pts – $25). Floral, star jasmine and citrus aromas. Quite cool fruit, with citrus-like acidity. Good length, with the persistent fruit building in the mouth, Decent texture too. and. Really good drinking, this can be picked up for under $12 from Dan Murphy.

Ad Hoc – Chardonnay – Hen & Chicken – 2015 (17pts – RRP $21). Peach and tropical fruit to the fore, in a straightforward style. The uncomplicated palate has decent length and enough depth to make for excellent early drinking. From Pemberton.

Young Gun of Wine_Perth 2016

Young Gun of Wine – Perth – December 2016

Barry Weinman: 25th January 2016

I do not attend many wine tasting “events”; the ones where hundreds of punters turn up to try as many wines as possible in a short period of time, with the aim of getting value for their ticket by drinking as much wine as possible in the allocated time.

I made an exception last month, when I attended the Young Gun of Wine event at Il Lido. Young Gun of Wine is a bit of a misnomer, as the tasting featured both established as well as up and coming winemakers.

One consistent feature is that they are all passionate about the wines they produce, even if they make rather divergent styles of wine. From mainstream to biodynamic, with the odd natural wine thrown in for good measure.

The wines reviewed below are only a fraction of those that were available, and the large group that attended seemed to be thoroughly enjoying the event, happily chatting with the winemakers.

Amelia Park

Given the track record of the winery and winemaker Jeremy Gordon, I am not sure whether Amelia Park fits the “young Gun” designation, but the wines continue to be brilliantly made.

Chardonnay – Reserve – 2015: The first Chardonnay to be given the “reserve” title. A tight and fine wine with ripe, though restrained fruit. Nectarine combines with lemon myrtle and melon aromas, whilst the palate is taut, with minerality and texturing oak. An excellent wine that will age very well.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013. Very refined and elegant, with mint/eucalypt over supple blueberry fruit. The palate has near seamless palate transition and has a wonderful silky texture. A superb wine. The fourth release under the reserve label, this spent 18 months in oak (40% new), with the fruit coming from the Montgomery vineyard. Good Value at $44 ex-winery.

Cape Grace

Chardonnay – 2015. Peach-like fruit and fine minerality a feature. Creamy and elegant, with decent fruit weight. A year or two in bottle should see this open up. Made from clone 5, spent six months in oak (45% new, regular lees stirring).

Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. A big, ripe red with plenty of fruit power. Textured and long, the balance is noteworthy. (560 cases made).

Credaro

Credaro came to my attention two years ago when their Cabernet starred in one of my panel tastings. It was the elegance that grabbed my attention this time.

Chardonnay – 1000 Crowns – 2015. Very fine and elegant, with stone fruit, melon and crisp minerality. The palate is quite closed and tight, with fine oak and grapefruit acidity adding depth. Age-worthy.

Shiraz – 1000 Crowns – 2015. While there is ripe fruit here, it to is restrained and elegant. The palate is tight and textured, the oak sitting well within the fruit. 5 gold medals in wine shows to date.

Flore Marche

Riesling – Malabre – 2016. The numbers here are a clear indicator to the style made (residual sugar 6.5g/l, pH = 2.9, alcohol 10.5%). Bright, fresh and enjoyable, with just a touch of residual sugar to add depth and mouth-feel. Excellent summer drinking, given the light fruit weight and linear palate.

Freehand

Here the focus is on making enjoyable, preservative free wines that have had a couple of years in the bottle prior to release. Whilst the wines have developed quite quickly in bottle, this allows the winery to sell wines that are ready for immediate consumption.

Semillon – 2014. Despite being sulphur free, there are some toasty, struck match characters on show. The palate is textured and chewy, with phenolic grip and oak adding impact. Non mainstream style. This will handle rich foods well.

Merlot – 2014. Succulent and plush, with plum and mulberry fruit that is showing a touch of development. Fits the mould and is ready to go now.

Krinklewood

Here is a winery and winemaker that beats to the tune of a different drum. Biodynamics is the main focus here, with an infectious enthusiasm shown by winemaker Rod Windrim.

Chardonnay– Basket Press– 2015. 60% of the juice here was fermented in 600l concrete “eggs” utilising a very slow ferment to add texture and mouth-feel. This is a generous wine, with pretty floral fruit transitioning to melon notes. There is a bit of grip on the close, which should soften with a year or two in the bottle, allowing the mid-palate to build more depth.

Shiraz – Basket Press – 2015. Handpicked over two fruit days, basket pressed, open fermented and stomped by foot! Vibrant lifted fruit, with well-judged acidity and decent length. Do not be put off by the lighter colour, this is an excellent drink right now.

Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium New Release – Spring 2016

Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium New Release

Barry Weinman: 12th December 2016

I recently wrote about the current range of Shiraz released by Cherubino and this time it was the Cabernets that shone. These are very fine, elegant wines that will be extremely long lived. I left the bottles on my tasting bench and they continued to improve for 4-5 days, and were still in excellent condition after a week!

Following on from the success of the 2014 Filius from Vasse Felix, I was very keen to try the Premium (Gold Capsule) from the same vintage. Whilst it is not due to be released until sometime in 2017, winemaker Virginia Wilcock kindly provided a pre-release sample to include in the tasting.

The wine lived up to my expectations; high quality fruit brilliantly crafted into an elegant/refined package. This is a wine destined for a very long future (and higher points).

In some ways, the highlight of the tasting was the SRS from Flametree. A wine that manages to provide great drinking now, yet will age well for years to come. I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of this with chicken poached in master stock.

At a completely different price point, the Wynns offered great value everyday drinking.

It was a privilege to try some of the wines in this tasting, such was the quality on display. Given their relative youth and restraint, they are sure to score even higher points in years to come.

Reviewedsrs-cab-sauv-2014

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18.7pts – $65). Precise, ripe berry fruit on the nose, with more immediate generosity than the Vasse Felix. The palate is very long and savoury, with the bright acidity and remarkably fine tannins framing the fruit wonderfully. The finish gets a little tight, but really opened up with air. Whilst this will reward cellaring, the elegance, balance and poise makes this my pick of the tasting to drink now. franklandcabsauv

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014 (18.5++pts – $110). Beautiful purple colour in the glass. Amazing depth to the fruit, though this is just a baby. The fruit is inky on the palate, with blueberry and cedar from the tight grained oak. This is quite closed and tight, yet the fine structural components allow a preview of the high quality fruit. This wine really needs decades to show its best.margrivcabsauv1

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2014 (18.5+pts – $75). Compared to the Frankland River, this is actually quite pretty. Mulberry, spice, cedar, blackcurrant and menthol aromas. Fine silky textural components, over pristine, medium bodied (for Cabernet) fruit. Excellent palate transition leads to dusty tannins on the finish. Will be better in a decade, but could be drunk now with plenty of air.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium* – 2014 (18.5+pts – $46). Very youthful and vibrant, the cherry-like fruit is accompanied by mint and eucalypt aromas. The palate is firm and textured, yet the fruit still shines through and the balance is exemplary. The way the fruit fans out on the finish is a delight. A wine of distinction, this could be drunk now with joy or anytime over the next 20 years and is sure to score higher points in years to come

* Sitting between the Filius and the Heytesbury, this is known as the premium, but the word does not appear on the front label. The wine is easily identified by the gold screw cap.wynns-coonawarra-cabernet-shiraz-merlot

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – “Red Stripe” – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Lively, fresh and delicious, with cherry and berry fruit balanced by the fine though firm tannins. Whilst good now, this will be even better with short-term cellaring. Available for $14 from Dan Murphy, making this a bargain.