Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

New Release Shiraz – August 2017

Barry Weinman: 8^th August 2017

Howard Park seems to be on a roll at present, with Janice McDonald in control of the winemaking. Recently, their wines under the Madfish label impressed the panel, but this time it was the turn of the Scotsdale and Leston Shiraz to steal the limelight. The drinkability of the Scotsdale (Great Southern) resulted in a slightly higher score, but both are excellent.

Leeuwin Estate also contributed a fine example of accessible cool-climate Shiraz, whilst the wines from Graylin and Cape Mentelle were tighter and restrained, needing years in the bottle.

At the budget end of the spectrum, the Wolf Blass Red Label is a fun, easy drinking wine (though personally, I would pay an extra dollar or two and buy their Yellow Label Shiraz).

Rounding out the reviewed wines was excellent South Australian Shiraz from two wineries that I had not seen before. I know nothing about Te Aro (Barossa), while Woodvale is a new label from Kevin Mitchell in the Clare Valley.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Shiraz – Scotsdale – 2015 (18.6pts – $46). Refined, elegant, finely structured and precise. Lovely fruit notes balanced by fine tannins and supple oak. Blueberry fruit is balanced by souring plum. Silky, long and near seamless this is delicious yet age-worthy. Excellent fruit and winemaking on show.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2015 (18.5pts – $46). Supple cherry and plum fruit with licorice, cinnamon and spice. The mouth-feel is a highlight, with souring acidity and fine, texturing tannins. Bring on the steak, or ten years in the cellar.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2014 (18.5pts – $46). Very seductive nose full of red berries and plum. Supple and silky on the palate, yet retains drive and focus courtesy of the fine tannins and acidity. Irresistible; this requires no accompaniment, yet the tannin backbone will support medium term aging. ($36 at the winery)

Gralyn – Shiraz – Reserve – 2012 (18.3). Taut, refined, elegant. Cool region fruit that has red currant, licorice and gentle herbs. The mouth-feel is superb, with the feathery tannins and oak sitting tight with the fruit. Excellent length aided by souring acidity. Food friendly, yet age worthy. At only 12.4% alcohol, this is a remarkable wine.

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2014 (18pts). Cool region fruit that is ripe, yet restrained, with tar, licorice, spice, black fruits and hints of forest floor. Textured and youthful, with chewy tannins to close. An impressive and age-worthy wine that should score higher points in years to come.

Scotchmans Hill – Shiraz – 2013 (18pts – $39). Inky, aromatic and savoury, with iodine notes. A dense and powerful wine that is a little different to the norm. The savoury notes give it an Italian feel, and this is sure to partner rich meat dishes well. Great drinking.

Te Aro – Shiraz – Charred Door – 2014 (18pts – $38 ). I really like this. Mint and eucalypt notes accompany the perfumed bright berry fruit characters. Supple mouth-feel, where the fruit is the main focus. The fresh acidity adds drive and will cut through rich sauces with ease. Excellent length of flavours. From the Barossa.

Woodvale – Shiraz – Spring Gardens – 2014 (18pts). Blueberry, spice and licorice on both the nose and palate. Made in a more approachable style, where the fruit is given primary focus and is balanced by savoury oak and tannins. Excellent drinking now, but also in 10 years. Made by Kevin Mitchell of Killikanoon fame (check out the oversized bottle).

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Red Label – 2016 (17.5pts – $14). Pretty berry fruit that is both succulent and slurpable. Not overly serious, but a delicious early drinking style with decent length and berry aromas.

New Release Chardonnay – July 2017

Barry Weinman: 4^th August 2017

This tasting highlighted the various styles of Chardonnay that are on the market now. Gone are the days of the fat, buttery wines, with a move to more restrained and elegant wines.

For this review, I decided on a couple of very modern wines from Fraser Gallop,Marchand & Burch and a richer wine from Evans & Tate. The latter is a wine that offers a lot of drinking pleasure right now.

Reviewed

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongorup & Mount Barker – 2016 (18.5/20 – $73). Dry, taut and lean, the acid holding back the fruit initially, but opens to show floral fruit. A very modern wine that needs years to provide enjoyment. Fine and elegant, with expensive, though restrained oak. Superb wine for the future.

Evans & Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2013 (18+/20 – $49). Stylistically, this sits between the lean modern styles and the rich wines of old, and is much the better for it. Subtly worked characters over ripe stone fruit aromas. Nectarine and peach on the palate, complemented by structuring oak. The lees work is dialled back here, adding depth without clouding the pristine fruit. Will flesh out with 3 – 5 years in the bottle, but is a treat now.

Fraser Gallop – Chardonnay – Parterre – 2016 (18/20 – $39 ). This is a very good wine, in a lean and elegant style. Delicate, there is lifted white peach-like fruit that builds in layers . Intense, worked, youthful, points here are for potential.

June New Releases

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2017

Due to technical challenges, I was unable to publish any of the reviews from June. So here is a summary of some of the great wines that came in front of the panel.

In writing my notes for the Bass Phillip and Madfish Chardonnays, I wondered how such divergent wines (in both style and price) could both score 18 points. In reality, the Bass Phillip is a much more serious wine, but the drinking pleasure provided by the Madfish elevated its points significantly. So whilst the wines scored the same points, they are not equals.

Riesling

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2016 (18.5pts – $34). Each year, this is my pick of the Howard Park Rieslings, as it possesses greater depth, yet is also the most elegant and delicate of the wines. Pretty aromatics that are floral and very delicate. On the palate, the texture and minerality of the wine is key, set against a backdrop of fine acidity. One to watch.

Madfish – Riesling – 2016 (17.8 – $18). Fresh and taut. The palate is delightful, with lemon blossom and talc. The core of acid and minerality gives the wine drive and persistence. A fine and elegant wine that will take a few years in the cellar, yet would be great with freshly shucked oysters now. Value!

Chardonnay

Singlefile – Chardonnay – The Vivianne – 2014 (18.5+pts – $80). Complex, powerful and youthful, with curry leaf, minerality and stone fruit. The fruit purity on the palate is captivating, supported by a veneer of oak that adds depth and mouth-feel. Finishes with near seamless palate transition with great length. Age-worthy, this is outstanding.

Devil’s Lair – Chardonnay – 2015 – (18.5pts – $38). Fine, refined and elegant, with great presence in the glass. Lemony fruit and acid, with stone fruit, nectarine and peach. Textured, balanced, complex and long, this will open with time in the bottle. Only 13% alcohol.

Bass Phillip – Chardonnay – Estate – 2015 (18pts). Nectarine and tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is defined by the racy acidity, which complements the fine fruit perfectly. Hints of pineapple, almond meal and lemon/grapefruit citrus notes. Fresh and long, this is a serious and powerful wine that has real presence in the glass. Now – 5+ years.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts). Fresh lemon and white peach here, with almond meal nuttiness to the fruit. The palate is long, fine and textured. The oak is well judged, but will benefit from a little time to come together. Excellent value. Madfish – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts – $18). Pretty fruit that is floral and perfumed. The palate is a delightful blend of floral characters and stone fruit, with a lovely creamy texture. Quite seamless, this lingers for some time on the finish. A slightly different style, but one that is most attractive. Great drinking and excellent value.

Stella Bella – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts+). Grapefruit, citrus, ripe stone fruit, creamy, textural oak, this has it all. Superb mouth-feel and very long, the acid adds life and balance. Delightful now, but cellaring will see the acid soften and the fruit characters build.

Reds

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2015 (18.3pts – $25). Intense and powerful fruit with the aromas coming in waves. The palate has minty cabernet fruit with spicy undertones, tar and chewy tannins power, yet retains a degree of elegance that is remarkable. A classic Cabernet that offers great drinking or short/medium-term cellaring.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block – Reserve – 2013 (18.5pts – $55). Silky and supple, yet there is a seam of powerful fruit behind the prettiness, keeping the palate taut and restrained. Very long, with souring acidity and coffee-ground oak notes. A refined wine that really builds intensity with air. A wine with a very long future. (5 gold medals). 14.5% alc.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – Reserve – 2015 (18.3pts – $23). Textured, powerful, firm and taut, with chocolaty fruit. Powerful blueberry fruit builds in layers, complemented by a spicy edge. Textured and long, this is a superb wine that is so easy to drink.

New Release – July 2017

Barry Weinman: 13^th July 2017

The panel looked at a variety of styles this week as well as wines at varying price-points. The team at Angove continue to impress, this time with their Organic range. Angove have arguably the largest holdings of organic vineyards in Australia.

The Rosé was a stand out and sets a benchmark for this variety in Australia. However, the Shiraz/Cabernet was my pick – a bargain that could even take a few years in the cellar.

Another bargain was the Wolf Blass Yellow Label Shiraz. A delicious wine that can be picked up for as little as $10.

Moving up the price scale, the wines from Rochford and Singlefile impressed greatly.

Finally, I would like to draw your attention to the wines from St Mary’s. Here are idiosyncratic wines where you can taste the region in each of the wines. They are also delicious drinking!

Reviewed

Angove – Sauvignon Blanc – Organic – 2017 (17pts – $16). Fresh and lively, with floral notes, musk stick and a touch of cut grass. The palate is a treat and, while not overly complex, has plenty of lemony fruit. Great quaffing (demonstrating that the Riverland can make decent SB).

Rochford – Chardonnay – Dans Les Bois – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18.5pts – $49). A serious wine that has had the gamut of winemaking techniques. Barrel ferment and10 months’ lees aging in oak (30% new) has added great complexity and depth. The nose is powerful, with minerality, curry leaf and a touch of struck match. The palate is very long and textured. The high quality fruit and oak need a year or two to integrate, but this is a very impressive wine.

Angove – Rosé – Organic – 2017 (17pts – $16). Very pretty colour complements the attractive, vibrant floral fruit that reminds me of red berries and jubes. The palate is round and soft, the berry characters complemented by balancing acidity. Will be great on its own, or with antipasto. 100% Shiraz.

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – Limestone Coast – 2014 (17.8+pts – $35). The sense of place is a key feature of this wine. The mint, and chocolate characters are so typical of the region, yet there are still floral berry characteristics typical of Pinot. The palate is supple and textured, with souring cherry fruit. Ageworthy, this is a unique expression of Pinot that captures the terroir from which it was produced (cork closure).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Philip Adrian – 2014 (18.5+pts – $80). A blend of restraint and power. Inky purple colour. Complex, restrained and taut. The palate is supple and very long. A wine for the long haul that only hints at what is to come with time in bottle.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2017 (117.8pts – $16). Attractive blue and red berries (Shiraz) over a core of structural elements (Cabernet). Excellent length and persistence, with the textural components coming into their own on the finish. At this price it is also worth putting a few in the cellar, to see how they develop over the next 5 years. A delight! (from the Riverland).

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Yellow Label – 2015. (17.8pts – $16). This is a wine that will please lovers of a big juicy red. Ripe plum fruit, balanced on a textured, chewy palate. The lushness of this wine is a standout. My points might be a little high, but this is ridiculous value at $10 from Dan Murphy.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – Limestone Coast – 2015 (18.2pts – $30). Another wine that speaks of its region, with mint/menthol and eucalypt, over ripe, plump fruit. Great balance on the palate, with excellent texture and mouth-feel. A delicious, complete wine that will also age well in the medium term.

Pinot Noir – June 2017: New Release

Barry Weinman: 18^th June 2017

Pinot Noir is not the easiest wine to make well. It tends to do best in cooler, boutique wine producing areas and requires plenty of attention in the winery. Also, the attention required in the vineyard precludes large scale plantings. So compared to Shiraz, these are not the cheapest wines to produce.

Affordable Pinot Noir is an elusive beast. The highlight for me of a recent line up of Pinots was the new Shottesbrooke Pinot from the Adelaide Hills. Here is a good drinking, varietally correct wine that is selling for $20. Definitely worth a look.

Though it costs more, the Picardy Pinot is in fine form. Precise and balanced, it is great drinking now, but will also improve in the bottle.

Reviewed.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2014 (18pts -$40). Solid core of pretty fruit. Berry, plum and cherry characters with tar, liquorice and spice. Gentle oak adds depth with the fruit tannins and acid drive on the finish. An excellent wine that will build complexity in the bottle over the next 5 years.

Shottesbrooke – Pinot Noir – Adelaide Hills – 2016 (17.6pts – $20). Lovely colour and aromas of ripe berry/cherry fruit. Silky, supple, decent texture and relatively fine, with cedary characters adding depth. Not overly concentrated, but a great drink. The generous flavours linger. A decent $20 pinot is a rare commodity, but this one hits the spot.

Bass Phillip Pinot Noir – 2015 Vintage Review

Barry Weinman: 31^st May 2017

When it comes to Australian Pinot Noir, the reputation of Bass Phillip is unequalled. Their reputation is backed up by the prices that their top wines sell for. The range tops out with the Reserve at closer to $600. The entry level wines, however, are most reasonably priced, starting with the Old Cellar ($35), followed by the Crown Prince ($60).

Several things struck me during the tasting:

The Crown Prince is the best value Pinot. There is a clear family resemblance across the range, especially between the Crown Prince, Estate and Reserve, and the Crown Prince gives access to the Bass Phillip style at an affordable price.

A second point is that the Gamay is seriously good drinking and, at $50, is a relative bargain. Despite having the more illustrious Pinot range open, this is the wine that I chose to have a glass of with dinner.

Finally, the wines are different to other new world Pinots. For a start, they are unfiltered. The wines for this tasting arrived shortly before we started, so there was a slight cloudiness apparent. The clarity was restored once the wines sat for a few hours. The challenge is that, when served in a masked line-up, the wines stand out. So objective assessment becomes a little more difficult.

The wines are also made embracing biodynamic principles, which may result in more vintage-to-vintage variation. I n 2015, the wines are notable for their relatively low alcohol content, ranging from 12.5 to 13.2%.

If you are familiar with Bass Philip, then you will require little encouragement to seek out the range. If you are not familiar with the wines, then the Crown Prince is a great entrée. If you are looking for a delicious drink over the coming cooler months, then the Gamay is my pick.

N.B. Points not allocated as the wines were easily identified in the tasting.

Reviewed

Bass Phillip – Gamay – 2015 ($50). The colour is a touch more earthy than the Pinots. The fruit here is serious, with genuine depth and complexity. The palate is alive and delicious. The fine acidity balances the ripe berry fruit perfectly, leaving the palate fresh and ready for a second sip. The delicacy of the fruit is a real highlight (this grape deserves more popularity in Australia).

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Old Cellar – 2015. (RRP $35). Trademark cloudy appearance. There is an attractive fleshiness that reminds me of Central Otago. Relatively straightforward and approachable, yet there is enough depth to the fruit on the finish to make an impression. Drink over the next 2 – 3 years. 13% alc.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Crown Prince – 2015 ($59). A delicate wine that has high quality, plum-like fruit on show. The palate is elegant, supple and fine, with the acid adding drive to the finish. Superb mouth-feel a highlight. Will be great with food now, but sure to improve over the next 5 years.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Estate – 2015 ($80). Just a hint of cloudiness. Extremely complex and concentrated, yet the vibrant fruit has density without excessive weight. Cherry, jubes, clove and nutmeg complement the strawberry characters. On the finish, the fine tannins and acid serve to keep the fruit in check and keep the palate fresh and alive. Supple mouth-feel and excellent line/length. Finishes with fine tannins and a whisper of oak. It took two days to hit its best, so cellaring potential is assured. 12.5% alc

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Issan Vineyard – 2015 ($85). Brick red colour. This is a different style compared to the Estate. Initially subdued on the nose. The red berry fruit is pretty and fragrant, building depth with air. The palate is balanced and supple. Whilst not overtly powerful, there is depth to the fruit that is quite captivating. Takes on a masculine structure, reminding me of Gevrey Chambertain. 12.8% alc. Vineyard established in 1994.

Bass Phillip – Pinot Noir – Premium – 2015 ($220). Opaque, brick red colour. Nose initially muted, but the fragrant, pretty fruit came to the fore with air. The balance is exemplary, the fine acidity providing a refreshing counterpoint to the dense fruit. There is depth behind the floral fruit, with fine oak providing structure. With air the fruit builds in waves, and fans out across the palate. After two days on the tasting bench, this was outstanding so a sure bet for 5 – 10 years in the cellar.

Cabernet – New Release – May 2017

Barry Weinman: 28^th May 2017

In Western Australia, the majority of wineries make their Cabernet/Merlot blends in a softer, more approachable style, that is suited for earlier consumption. Their more serious (and expensive) wine, however, is labelled as straight Cabernet.

An obvious exception to this is the Diana Madeline from Cullen- a lovely wine by any measure.

A highlight of this tasting was the Xanadu; another brilliant wine from Glen Goodall. The other highlight was the wines from Redman. Interestingly, it was the cheaper wines that really caught my attention, though the winery should be commended for having the 2006 Redman available for sale.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2014 (18.7pts – $130). Fantastic fruit on both the nose and palate. Mulberry and blueberry fruit builds combine with a supple mouth-feel. This is a superb wine, with great intensity and depth to the fruit, yet with a degree of elegance and polish. The fine tannins are there in significant proportions, yet this remains balanced the whole lengths of the palate. As good as it is now will be even better with 10 years in the cellar.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2013 (18.5+pts – $79). Inky and tight, yet there are blue fruits just starting to poke through along with a touch of eucalypt and cedar. The tannins are fine and almost silky, yet the overall package is somewhat taut and shy. An impressive wine that will be a great wine with 10-15 years in the bottle.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.5pts – $38). Really deep smelling fruit on a complex, yet perfectly integrated nose. There is depth to the palate, yet this is silky, refined, elegant and very long. The supple mouth-feel is a highlight and the finish near seamless. Superb and very refined, this actually smells expensive. Great now, but will live for 20+years.

Redman

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – The First Divide – 2015 (17.7pts – $30). Purple and very youthful. Ripe, almost succulent fruit on the nose, with red berries, menthol and a touch of cedar. The menthol characters are striking on the palate, with peppermint overtones, mid-weight fruit, good length and textural tannins. Excellent short to mid-term drinking.

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 – (18pts – $33). Generous fruit up front on the nose. The palate is rich, ripe and plump. T he generous fruit is matched to soft, supple tannins and savoury oak. Quite dense and tight, with an almost chewy texture to close. I really like this now, but it would also benefit from 5 years in the cellar.

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Redman – 2006 (18pts). Lovely ripe, sweet fruit on the nose. Blackcurrant, almost Ribena-like, yet there is a degree of restraint and elegance on the palate which is complemented by the complexity of bottle age. The souring acidity adds life. A bigger style, but one that works very well. Redman’s should be congratulated for releasing a wine with 10 years of bottle age!

Chardonnay – New Release – May 2017

Barry Weinman: 25^th May 2017

Margaret River is blessed to be able to produce world-class Chardonnay, and this tasting highlighted the quality of some of the top wines.

The real surprise of the tasting was the Madfish; great drinking and with serious fruit. Sure, my points may be a little generous, but at $18, who cares!

The only wine to make this review from outside of WA was the Shottesbrooke from the Adelaide Hills. A sensibly priced wine in the modern style (tight, angular and age-worthy).

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2014 (18.7pts – $110). Fresh peachy fruit on the nose, with a talc-like floral lift. This is so pretty! The palate is floral and fresh, yet there is a core of serious fruit running through. The structural elements on the palate are more pronounced, with the oak and a touch of struck-match minerality complementing the fruit on the close. Almost delicate, this is a charming wine that is only at the very start of its life.

Piero – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.7). Really fine and elegant. Curry leaf, minerality, grapefruit, hints of pineapple. Beautifully crafted, with high quality oak integrated into a near seamless package. The length of flavours is outstanding. A restrained wine that will age brilliantly, yet offers pleasure now.

Woodlands – Chardonnay – Chloe – 2015 (18.6pts – $80). Restrained and taut, the peach-like fruit is complemented by high quality oak. On the palate, pineapple and marmalade notes build, with just a hint of toast from the oak. Supple, with the power becoming apparent on the long, lemony finish. Great now, but will fill out with 3 – 5 years in the cellar.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2015 (18.6pts – $70). Whilst modern, this is a powerful wine. The nose is an amalgam of high quality fruit paired to supple oak and measured winemaking interventions. The palate is refined, supple and elegant, with mid-palate generosity building. A youthful wine that would benefit from a couple of years to allow the package to come together.

Madfish – Chardonnay – 2016 (18pts – $18). Initially quite shy and restrained, yet possessing an almost ethereal charm which makes for excellent early consumption. Gentle minerality and flint, with supple oak adding to the mouth-feel. Develops nectarine and tropical fruit with air. Brilliant drinking at the price.

Shottesbrooke – Chardonnay – Single Vineyard – 2016 (18pts – $33). Lovely nose, with complex winemaking aromas and flavours, including struck match, flint and minerals. Fruit here is quite lean and modern, though it builds depth on the finish and is very long. Needs time, but should evolve. This McLaren Vale winemaker has produced a note-worthy Adelaide Hills Chardonnay.

New Release Imported Red Wines: May 2017

New Release Imported Red Wines: April 2017

Over the last few years, Lamont’s have been importing a range of wines from Europe. This has ranged from high-end Burgundy to cheap and cheery reds and whites from Spain.

In this tasting, the panel looked at a range of cheaper wines that are currently available. Whilst all of the wines showed well, the wines reviewed represent excellent value. Mention my name and you might even get a discount!

Reviewed.

Domaine Nicolas Boiron – Cotes Du Rhone – 2012 (17.5+pts – $23). More intensity to the colour and more depth and richness to the fruit that takes on an almost cherry note. The palate is somewhat firmer, though the balance is excellent. The fruit quality elevates this above the average, whilst the supple winemaking presents the fruit in an approachable package. Will be a treat with food.

Domaine Raymond Usseglio – Cotes Du Rhone – Les Claux – 2015 (17.5pts – $29). Pristine fruit that is ripe and very well handled in the winery. Leather, spice, menthol, red currant, lovely acidity and fine tannins. Again, this is fresh, youthful and excellent drinking.

Acentor – Grenache – Garnacha – 2015 (17.2pts – $16). Fleshy plummy fruit on the nose. The mid-weight palate has fine tannins complement the juicy fruit, making for an excellent early drinking style. Balanced, with spicy notes to the fruit. Plump, round and easy to drink.

Alceno – Shiraz – Premium 50 Barricas – 2012. (17pts – $16). More depth and power to the fruit. I really like this wine. Ripe, almost chocolaty fruit is combined with menthol, Asian spice and fine tannins. The oak adds depth to the palate, while the savoury tannins keep the palate vibrant. Will do well with a few years in the cellar.

Cullen Chardonnay Retrospective – May 2017

Cullen Chardonnay Retrospective

Barry Weinman: 7^th May 2017

The Kevin John Chardonnay is the wine that has really caught my attention in recent years, with a succession of excellent wines. What impact biodynamics has had I can’t say, but I now rank this amongst the region’s finest.

Adding interest to the story is the release of a very limited quantity of wines that have been harvested at different times of the biodynamic cycle. I do not claim to understand the differences, but the Fruit Barrel was superb, with the Flower Day and Flower Barrel just a whisker behind.

At $250 per bottle, they make the standard release look like a bargain by comparison.

A special thanks to Lamont’s in Cottesloe for hosting this tasting.

Reviewed

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2015. Youthful, fresh and floral, with delightful stone fruit aromatics. Slightly viscous, hints of tropical fruit and grapefruit acidity to close. Seamless oak integration and a touch of toast. The palate is complete!

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2014. This wine has gone into its shell a little. Everything in place, but just needs a year or two to open up. Gentle toast to the oak.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2013. Remains restrained and taut, with more minerality on show. The balance and mouth-feel are a treat. Seamless, integrated, very fine and a highlight of the tasting.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2012. Richer and more approachable, with a touch of marmalade developing in the nose. The palate has peach/nectarine fruit, creamy mouth-feel and scintillating acidity. Very long, and great drinking now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2011. Gentle aromatics. Pineapple and citrus fruit, with lemony acidity carrying the finish. Very long, with minerality building on the close. Developed characters just starting to show with gentle toast, adding richness and depth. Superb drinking now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2010. This bottle did not show well on the night.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2009. The age is just starting to show in the colour, but there is still lovely freshness to both the nose and palate. A sublime wine where the stone fruit and citrus characters are perfectly integrated. A lovely drink now.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2008. More development, with the fruit here a little faded. A very satisfying drink that has gentle viscosity, balance and good acid levels.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2007. The minerality on the nose is very attractive, with some of the curry-leaf characters that I often find in great Chardonnays. The palate is rich, textured and very long. The pineapple and tropical characters carry the length of the palate and are complemented by a lovely line of acidity. A great wine that is approaching its peak, and one of the top wines of the tasting.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Flower Day – 2013. Complex, powerful fruit. The palate is a powerhouse of flavours and textures. This really needs a few years to settle down. The acidity is so fine that it is barely noticeable, yet it provides great definition to the wine.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Moon Opposite Saturn Harvest – 2014. Almost austere, the fruit is subdued and it is the honey and toast characters that are most noticeable. Not a rewarding drink now, but will be interesting to watch over the coming years.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Flower Barrel – 2014. Wow, what a pretty wine. There is beautifully fragrant fruit on the nose that carries through with floral characters on the palate. Almost jasmine blossom. Refined and seamless palate, the oak just making a presence on a close that is very long. Almost Alsace-like, this is a different style.

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – Fruit Barrel – 2014. Classic Cullen’s Chardonnay, with all the characters intensified. This is a superb wine, where the brilliant fruit quality is on full show. Pretty, perfumed stone fruit, creamy texture. Very long, balanced and refined. A complete wine and my pick of the tasting.