Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 Release

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 20 July 2016

Wynns Black Label Cabernet is one of the most important wines in Australia’s wine history. A wine that has formed the backbone of many Australian cellars for over 50 years. According to James Halliday, the first Wynns Cabernet was released in 1954!

I have been fortunate enough to drink Wynns Cabernet back as far as the 1960 vintage (with a white label at the time) and can attest to their ability to age superbly.

John Riddoch was first released in 1982, and has gradually evolved in style over the subsequent decades. The current release is a very fine wine, with an alcohol level of only 13.5%.

The single vineyard wines are a relatively new phenomenon, with the Harold being first released in 2001. Other vineyards highlighted in previous years include Messenger, Johnson Block and Alex 88.

James Halliday gives more information on the history of Wynns, and the winery’s website provides a wealth of information.

Wines will be available on Wynnsday – 3^rd August 2016

Reviewed

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Black Label” – 2014 (18.5pts – $45). Chocolate/mint notes over ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit and hints of savoury oak. This is a powerful wine, with rich, textured fruit matched to fine, yet firm tannins. That said, the balance is noteworthy and the length commendable. Very approachable, yet guaranteed to live for years. An excellent black label, deserving of its reputation.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Harold – 2013 – (18.5pts – $80). Quite a contrast to the black label. A lighter, fresher style that puts balance and poise ahead of opulence. Menthol, blackcurrant and savoury notes are balanced by fine acidity. The oak is only there for texture, allowing the fruit to shine. A feminine mid-weight wine that will cellar well for a decade or more. (13.0% alc).

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 2013 (18.7pts – $130). In a similar style to the Black Label, however there is more restraint and elegance to the concentrated, high-quality fruit. Opens with raspberry and cassis notes on the nose. The palate is balanced, refined and elegant, with the tannins and oak providing depth rather than overt flavour. Souring plum-like acidity adds life and interest. A lovely red that is irresistible now, yet will age well for at least 10 years.

Juniper Estate and Higher Planes

Barry Weinman: 11^th July 2016

Wrights was one of the earliest wineries established in the Margaret River region. In 1998 the winery was sold and the new owners renamed the winery Juniper Estate. Given this, Juniper Estate has some of the oldest vines in the region.

Coinciding with the purchase, Mark Messenger was brought in as winemaker, and has been there ever since. Mark had a good idea of what the vineyards were capable of, as he had worked at other wineries in the area that had been purchasing fruit from Wrights.

The venture expanded in 2007, with the purchase of the Higher Planes winery and vineyards, and winemaking for this was brought in-house. The Higher Planes vineyards are further south than Juniper Estate and the wines are vinified and bottled separately to that of Juniper Estate.

This seems to confer a slight difference in style, with the Higher Planes reds appearing pretty and elegant, whilst the Juniper reds appear more masculine and firm.

N.B. As these wines were not reviewed blind, no points have been allocated.

Reviewed

Higher Planes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2015. ($20). A 50/50 blend with lifted fruit and grassy undertones. Whilst only 5% of the wine had barrel fermentation, this was enough to really flesh out the texture, in combination with a degree of lees stirring. Vibrant acidity on the finish adds vitality.

Higher Planes – Chardonnay – 2013. ($37). This is a modern, yet accessible wine with ripe stone fruit and creamy/nutty notes. The palate is taut and elegant, with creamy oak adding texture. The finish is near seamless. Single vineyard, wild yeast fermentation, 100% Gin Gin clone.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 ($50 though on special for $34 from the winery). The vineyard is planted at 4500 vines per hectare. The wine has lovely, complex dark fruits over cedar and spice. This is taut, textured and complex, with the really fine tannins and oak shutting the fruit down at present. Give it time.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (October Release). Cooler fruit characters compared to Juniper Estate, with mint, spice and blueberries. The oak frames the fruit, adding depth and structure. A very fine wine with great balance.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – Messenger – 2012 ($65). A Cabernet dominant Bordeaux blend. Pretty aromatic fruit that has floral and berry characters over mineral and earthy notes. The palate is savoury and textured, with the oak adding depth. A complex wine with restrained power and excellent length. Great now, but better in 10+ years.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2014 ($30). I am not sure why more straight Semillon is not produced in the region, as this is a cracking wine. Lovely ripe fruit, with savoury/grassy notes and hints of citrus, tropical fruit and gentle spice from the oak. Quite textural with a drying finish.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2014 ($37). From a cooler vintage. Modern and taut, this appears a touch finer than the Higher Planes, with grapefruit, stone-fruit and cashew notes. The creamy oak adds depth on both the nose and palate. Will flesh out with a couple of years in bottle. Wild yeast/Gin Gin and Clone 95 (25%).

Juniper Estate – Cabernet blend – Aquitaine Rouge – 2012 ($37). A new addition to the range, designed to be an earlier drinking style. Contains all five Bordeaux varieties. Fragrant mulberry fruit with attractive blueberry notes courtesy of the inclusion of 17% Malbec. The spicy fruit is complemented by supple, textural oak and fine tannins. Great drinking any time over the next 5+ years.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet blend – Aquitaine Rouge –2013 (Released this month). Again, this has delicious blueberry fruit combined with plum notes. Compared to the 2011, the fruit has more density and texture, and the graphite/mineral characters give way to slightly dusty tannins. Give it an hour in a decanter before drinking to let the fruit open up.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 ($60). Made entirely from the original 1973 dry-grown vineyard, from a warmer year. This has more generous fruit, with blackcurrant and cassis notes and a touch of mint and eucalypt. The finish is taut and structured, with dusty tannins and textured oak. The palate transition is note-worthy.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (Released this month). A powerful wine, with brooding, brambly fruit. With air, the fruit gets really fragrant and pretty. A great wine in the making, though a little patience will be required.

Castagna Wines

Barry Weinman – 5^th July 2016

The original vineyards at Castagna were planted by Julian Castagna in 1997 and are now certified Biodynamic. Winemaking is handled by Julian who has a strong desire to let the fruit and the region speak for itself. That said, if there is one similarity to all the wines, it is the textural way the wines express on the palate. There are plenty of winemaker’s influences, yet the elegant fruit is allowed to shine.

The fruit for the Growers Selection range comes from several local vineyards, whilst the Castagna range is all from the estate vineyards. All wines are sealed with a Diam cork, removing the risks associated with natural cork.

Given the praise that the wines of Castagna have received on the East Coast, it has always surprised me that their profile has not been higher in the West. That is set to change after a chance meeting of proprietor Julian Castagna with Rob Palandri from distributor Vranken Pommery, which led to a distribution agreement.

My favourites within the range are listed below, but also watch out for a really interesting Vermouth!

Reviewed.

Castagna – Chardonnay – Grower’s Selection – 2014. ($50). Complex worked characters as a result of extended aging in oak and on lees. Very attractive curry leaf minerality, stone fruit and struck match aromas. The palate is creamy and textured, yet with a degree of freshness and verve. The palate is very long, with pineapple acidity to close.

Castagna – White Blend – Harlequin – 2013 ($35). Floral and perfumed, with apricot, nectarine and hints of almond. The palate is textured, somewhat viscous and very delicious, with a slightly chewy finish. A wine with personality that will work well with food.

Castagna – Sangiovese – La Chiave – 2013 ($85). The Sangiovese is thought to be the Brunello clone. Cuttings were sourced from a vine in Mirtleford that was planted in the 1920s by a migrant from Montalcino. Lovely pepper and spice, with a silky mouth-feel. The finish is long, fine and textured, with the red fruits lingering for some time. Supple and delicious!

Castagna – Shiraz – Genesis – 2013 ($85). Vine cuttings came from 1850s plantings sourced from five vineyards in Victoria and McLaren Vale. Cinnamon, plum, licorice and savoury spice notes on the nose. The palate is dense, yet refined, with slightly chewy tannins. Almost feminine, this is remarkably approachable, but will live for years, courtesy of the excellent acid balance. Spent almost two years in oak and includes 2% Viognier.

Pinot Noir – New Release

Barry Weinman: 3^rd July 2016

Ethereal at its best, yet notoriously difficult to get right. Given the challenges in producing the wine, finding good value Pinot is indeed difficult.

This task has been made a little easier with the release of the 2014 Artemis Pinot Noir from the Southern Highlands of NSW. The quality is excellent and, at $25 from Dan Murphy, the value is undeniable.

Howard Park’s Flint Rock is another excellent value wine, from a producer normally associated with Cabernet. A pretty, elegant style from the Great Southern.

The Walkerville Pinot has an interesting back-story. Produced by the Rich family (Philip Rich is formerly of Prince Wine Store), the wine is made by the talented Sandro Mosele from Kooyong Estate. The first vines were planted in 2006, and 2013 is the first vintage released (220 dozen produced).

Reviewed

Artemis – Pinot Noir – Southern Highlands – 2014 (18pts – $25). Lighter hue. Lovely fruit here. This is an elegant style, where the fine structural components frame the gentle fruit nicely. Excellent length and the finish fans out across the palate. Will evolve and build for a few years in bottle, as the fruit builds depth with air. A bargain!

Walkerville – Pinot Noir – South Gippsland – 2013 (18pts – $55). This has rich, high quality fruit, and the wine has been seriously made. Cherry, plum, fennel, spice, with hints of cedar from the oak. The tannins shut down the finish, so give it a bit of air. The palate is very long and textured. A savoury treat that would be a delight with roast duck.Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2015 (17.8pts – $28). Vibrant, forward, sweet fruit, with hints of fennel and spice. Cherry flavours on the palate are balanced by souring acidity. Was even better the next day. Delicious, this will also do well with a couple of years in the bottle.

Yerring Station – Pinot Noir – Village – 2013 (17.5pts – $24). Subdued initially, building a pretty floral fragrancy with air. The palate is slightly sappy and savoury, with decent length. Builds density and complexity in the glass, with the fruit evolving for some time on the finish. Slightly chewy tannins to close suggest short-term cellaring might be in order. Good value.

Western Australian Cabernet – 2012 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 20^th May 2016

Over the last few weeks, I have written about the fantastic Cabernets from Xanadu and Houghton, ranking both amongst the best Cabernets from Western Australia. The only trouble is that these were not blind tastings, so label bias is a factor.

So when the opportunity arose to try these wines in a blind line up of some of WA’s finest, I jumped at the chance. Hosted by Lamont’s – Cottesloe, the tasting allowed me to put these wines into perspective, when compared to their peers.

There were many great wines in the line-up, with almost all scoring 18.5 or higher. Every wine reviewed here is brilliant, but if I had to single out one wine on the day, the pick for me was Houghton’s Jack Mann. This is of course subjective, as other reviewers had a different favourite.

From a value perspective, the Parterre from Fraser Gallop is worth a mention. This was up with the best from a quality perspective, yet is available for under $40.

Reviewed

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2012 (19pts). Almost ethereal, this has great presence on both the nose and palate, with the subtle fruit perfectly matched to the structural components. The palate shows mulberry fruit, supple tannins and great length, aided by a touch of minerality. A magnificent wine that almost defies description.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2012 (18.8pts – $350). Supple and delicious fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and dense, with the fine tannins and acid playing the perfect counterfoil, ensuring great balance. The oak adds depth on the finish, but also just closes the fruit a little. A lovely wine that will be great any time over the next 20 years.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2012. (18.8pts). Full of restraint and elegance, with a touch of mint and eucalypt on the nose. Continues on the palate, with the ever-so-fine fruit balanced perfectly against the oak and tannins. The acid is polished and gives the finish drive. Very long and very moreish, this is a great wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2012 (18.7pts). The fruit has a slightly cooler feel, with the mint and eucalypt set against elegant blackberry and cherry notes. The palate is taut and fine, though this needs time to really hit its straps. A great wine with the structure to live in the cellar for decades.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 2012 (18.7pts $120). Dark, brambly fruit, with almost a hint of crushed ants, chocolate and menthol. Tremendous depth and power to the fruit, yet this remains balanced and harmonious. The finish is driven by the fine acidity, with the tannins and oak building on the close. Classic Coonawarra and an impressive wine.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2012 (18.7pts). Mint, eucalypt, and fresh herbal notes over red berry fruit. The palate is fine and supple, with the savoury tannins complementing the fruit superbly. Long, supple and delicious, this appears quite fruit forward initially, but the structure builds to close down the finish. Impressive.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2012 (18.7pts). Fragrant, almost pretty fruit, with blackberry and an almost tar-like minerality. The palate is refined and fresh, with great length. The structural components slowly building on the finish. A sleeper, this is a wine that will only get better over the coming years. Points for potential.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.7pts). Ripe blackcurrant and mulberry, with hints of cassis and spice. The nose is quite hedonistic and very attractive. The palate is fine and silky, yet full of life, with exquisite fruit quality and super-fine tannins. A remarkable, elegant wine that is a joy to drink. Will open and build for 15+ years, but irresistible now.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2012 (18.6). Closed and unyielding on both the nose and the palate. Whilst the palate transition is near seamless, the fruit is subdued and needs time to open up, as the classy oak and fine tannins keep everything in check. No denying the quality, but patience is required.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.6). Closed and taut, with precise ripe fruit, hints of spice and an almost graphite-like note. The palate is dark and brooding, with brambly fruit shrouded in a cloak of fine oak and tannins. Powerful and very long, this is a wine that needs 10 – 15 years to start to approach its best. Stately, in the style of Pauliac.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2012 (18.6pts). More accessible fruit, with red currant and plum notes. The palate is rich and vibrant, with the plum fruit giving way to souring acidity that perfectly matches the fruit and slightly chewy/textural tannins to close. A savoury wine that will be fantastic with food now, but will get better for many years.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2012 (18.6pts). Elegant and supple, with bright red fruits and a silky structure. Very high quality fruit here. The finish is very long, aided by souring acidity and excellent balance. Made in a style that preserves the fruit, relying on acids and fine tannins for longevity and depth, rather than overt oak. Lovely wine.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas – 2012 (18.6). Graphite and tar over blueberry and spice. The cedary/vanillin oak adds depth, giving way to savoury acidity and a brine-like tang. The tannins build on a close that is very long. Will be long lived, yet is approachable now.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.5). Pretty fruit on the nose. This is elegant and polished. In the mouth, there is succulent red fruits, earthy/mineral like texture, spice, vanillin oak and fine tannins. Closed and restrained initially, this really comes together with air, suggesting a long future (and possibly even higher points).

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2012 (18.5pts). A touch lighter red-brick colour. The fruit here is just a little more accessible. The palate is fine and silky, with savoury fruit and a strong vein of minerality running through to the close. Very long, this has great presence. Now – 20 years. (At under $40, this is excellent value).

Winery in Focus – Houghton – Part Two

Winery in Focus – Houghton

Part Two

Barry Weinman: 7^th May 2016

Following on from my review of Houghton Cabernets, here is a quick review of some of the other highlights in the range.

The Thomas Yule Shiraz was formally known as the Gladstones Shiraz.

Whilst Brookland Valley is a separate brand in the Accolade stable, wine-making is handled at Houghton, with Courtney Treacher leading the program.

Reviewed

Houghton – Pinot Grigio – Small Batch – 2015 (17.5pts – $22). Almost clear in colour. Vibrant, floral and pretty fruit, in the Alsatian (Gris) style and all the better for it. The fruit is soft and supple and the balance excellent. From Frankland River.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Crofters – 2013 (17.5pts – $18). Quite a refined wine, with peach and nectarine fruit over supple French oak. Silky mouth-feel and excellent length. Value for money.

Houghton – Shiraz – Crofters – 2014 (17.5pts – $19). Wow, there is an explosion of ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is forward and approachable, with the cherry/plum fruit the focus. Supple winemaking inputs add interest. Value Shiraz.

Houghton – Shiraz – Thomas Yule – 2012 (18+pts – $80) Dense, dark fruit on the nose. The fruit is almost thick on the palate, with hints of licorice and aniseed. The palate transition is near seamless, with the tannins at the close getting slightly grippy. Excellent length and a textural treat. Stylistically very different to the Cabernet, this represents brilliant mid-term drinking.

Houghton – Shiraz – Thomas Yule – 2011 (18.5pts – $80). Quite a contrast to the 2012, with more structure and less ripe fruit characters. Both the 11 and 12 are excellent examples of Shiraz, though this shows more cooler climate characters. Pepper and savoury cherry fruit a feature, with the cedar-like oak adding to the package. Will reward time in the cellar.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2013 (18 – 18.5pts – $70). Whilst there is obvious power to the fruit on the nose, the balance and perfume are noteworthy. Hints of expensive oak add complexity, reminiscent of Burgundy. The palate has rich fruit and superb mouth-feel, though the finish is quite tight and closed at present. May well score higher in the years to come.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2013 (18pts – $45). The depth of the fruit on the nose is a highlight. The perfumed berry fruit builds and carries through onto the palate. Textured and spicy, with excellent length, the fine tannins and oak add grip to close. An excellent wine.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.5pts $70). The approachability defies expectations here. Blackcurrant, eucalypt, mint and just a hint of cassis. The palate is rich and round, with the pristine fruit slowly giving way to fine tannins and very supple oak. The length is a feature.

New Release – May 2016

Barry Weinman: 21^th May 2016

Everyone loves a bargain; a wine that punches above its weight. A wine that drinks like a more expensive example. The good news for the bargain hunters is that Angove has hit the jackpot with its Long Row Cabernet.

I am not recommending this because it is cheap. This is a wine that drinks very well regardless of its price. A wine that I am happy to recommend to anyone who is looking for an uncomplicated red wine for that glass of wine mid-week, or to share with friends round a BBQ. That it will be available for under $10 makes it one of the wine-bargain of the year. (Dan Murphy has it for under $8).

The panel was unanimous in its praise for this wine. You could have heard a pin drop when the wine was unveiled; such was our amazement at the value being offered. I will be putting some in my cellar!

The Drayton’s Verdelho also caused quite a stir. This is a wine that offering so much more than a cheap NZ Sauvignon Blanc, yet Cellarmasters were selling it for $8.25. They have just switched over to the 2015 vintage, but if it is anything like the 2014, it will be a brilliant buy,

The Fume Blanc from Singlefile caused plenty of discussion. True to style, the (quality) oak stamps its presence on the palate, but at this early stage, it comes at the expense of fruit expression. I am sure that a few years in bottle will see this come into its own, and the $30 price tag seems very reasonable.

The SSB and Pinot Gris on the other hand, will be drinking a treat over the next year or two, and made the review below.

Reviewed

Angove – Chardonnay – Long Row – 2015 (16.2pts – $10). Smells like a proper Chardonnay, with quite ripe stonefruit characters. The palate has gentle creamy notes, hints of honey, musk and even a touch of minerality. The finish is clean and neutral, with a textural component that will work well with food. This is not a great wine by any means, but it is a good value quaff and great value for those on a tight budget.Drayton’s – Verdelho – Bellevue – 2014 (17pts – $9). Melon and citrus notes evolve on the nose. The palate is fresh and lively, with crunchy pear characters and well-judged acidity. The palate transition works very well and the length is noteworthy. Will accompany grilled squid or paella perfectly. (Cellarmasters has the 2015 for $8.25).

Singlefile – Pinot Gris – Pemberton – 2015 (17.5pts – $30). Very pale colour. Lovely floral fruit on the nose with pear and apple. The palate has excellent mouth-feel and texture, the fruit has hints of citrus and white peach. The slight phenolic grip, combined with fine acidity gives the finish drive and length.

Singlefile – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Denmark – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Enticing nose, with lantana, gooseberry, cumquat and musk. The palate is zesty, yet quite restrained, with the tropical fruit notes continuing on a very long palate. A smart wine indeed.Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2014. (17 – 17.5pts – $10). Whilst the origin of the fruit is not listed, this displays quite cool red fruits, with touches of herbs and mint. That said, there is clear varietal expression. The palate is mid weight and balanced, with fresh berry fruits combined with a herbal edge. A touch of cedar adds complexity, whilst the mouth-feel is supple and the length good. Surprising quality. A brilliant value dry red.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2013 (18.5+pts – $130). Whilst only medium bodied, there is amazing concentration to the fruit, with blackcurrant, cassis, menthol and a touch of fresh herbs. The palate is firm and structured, reminding me of fine Bordeaux. The length and persistence are exceptional. The cedary/vanillin oak and fine tannins shut down the fruit somewhat, put the potential is obvious. Needs ten years to hit its straps, and twenty would see this in its prime. Remarkable wine, but be patient.

Winery in Focus – Houghton – Part One

Winery in Focus – Houghton

Part One: Cabernet

Barry Weinman: 18^th May 2016

Houghton must surely be the most important winery in the history of Western Australia. Established in 1836, Houghton set the standard for Western Australian wines. Much of Houghton’s reputation can be credited to the skill and passion of Jack Mann, a brilliant winemaker who has made numerous remarkable wines over a number of decades.

Fast-forward several decades and winemaking is now safely in the hands of Ross Pamment. Ross is one of the unsung heroes of the Australian wine industry. Despite Houghton being absorbed into what is now the Accolade portfolio; the wines are now as good, if not better, than ever.

The challenge for Houghton now, is to build consumer recognition for their premium wines (and their senior winemaker). A great example of the impact that this tactic can have is Penfold. Under Peter Gago’s stewardship, Penfold’s reputation has continued to climb, along with their sales.

This tasting highlighted that the comparison to Penfold is warranted in another very important way; the tremendous depth of the range. Whilst I focussed on the premium wines for this tasting, all wines over-deliver on quality, when compared to the price.

The Jack Mann is a magical wine, the equal of any Cabernet in the world. The Gladstones also deserves to be considered at the very top of the Cabernet tree. The fruit for these wines come from different regions, but the quality is equally impressive.

Ross Pamment should be a name that all wine-lovers recognise and respect. Here’s hoping that the marketing team can generate the publicity to make this happen.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as an indication only.

Reviewed

Cabernet Sauvignon

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2011 (18pts – $32). From Margaret River, there is a step up in terms of fruit quality and density compared to the likes of Crofters. The suppleness of the fruit on the palate is a feature, but with air, the textural components really start to build. The tannins are very fine, yet add firmness to the finish, getting quite chewy to close. Whilst age-worthy, this is more approachable than some of the higher priced offerings.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.5pts $65 from the winery). Almost peppery fruit, with blueberry and peppermint notes. The fruit on the palate is superb, though the structure is still firm. Whilst youthful, the extra time in bottle has allowed the fruit to start to open up and express. Very good now, but will live for many years. From the Great Southern.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – C.W. Ferguson – 2012 (18.5pts $65). Blackcurrant fruit to the fore, with chocolate and hints of coffee on the nose. Dense, ripe and textured, the palate is very long. On the finish, the oak adds texture rather than overt flavours. Needs years to reach its peak, but the fruit builds nicely with air. A lovely wine.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2012 (18.7pts $70). Closed, taut and structured, there is a touch of mint and eucalypt over fragrant blackberry fruit on the nose. The palate is firm yet balanced, the fine tannins and supple oak keeping the fruit in check. The dusty tannins add texture. A superb wine that needs 10 years before drinking, and will live for many more. From Margaret River.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2013 (18.7pts NA). Superb nose with blackberry and hints of vanillin oak. This is more accessible than the 2012. The supple and fragrant berry fruit is set against silky oak and refined tannins. With air, this gets grippy and dense, the fruit needing time to blossom. As good as it is now, this will be better in 10 – 15 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2011 (19pts – NA). From the Justin vineyard in Frankland River. Dense, powerful and unyielding nose, that only hints at what is to come. There are hints of mint and eucalypt over dark red berries. The palate is outstanding, with great depth of fruit and excellent mouth-feel. The fruit is superb! The finish is somewhat closed, with the supple oak and very fine tannins holding the fruit quite tight at the moment. The length and depth of the fruit is breathtaking. Majestic!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2012 (19pts, $100). Superb fruit quality. More approachable initially than the 11, yet of equally high quality. The supple mulberry and blackcurrant fruit really shines. The palate gets all spicy, with pepper, cloves and a touch of minerality. The fruit carries the length of the palate, with the fine tannins and oak providing a counterpoint. A powerful wine that will reward patience. One of the world’s great wines.

Winery in Focus – Xanadu (Part Two)

Winery in Focus – Xanadu (Part Two) – Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 7^th May 2016

It is the Cabernets of Xanadu that have really made people pay attention, winning multiple trophies at capital city and national wine shows. The 2013 Xanadu Cabernet, for example, was awarded the best Cabernet Sauvignon trophy at the 2015 National Wine Show in Canberra.

Winemaking tends to be as hands-off as possible. The aim is to get it right in the vineyards, and allow the fruit to shine. The southern fruit tends to have higher natural acidity, meaning that no acid (or tannin) adjustment is required. Where possible, finning is also avoided.

There is a move away from Merlot as a blending partner, with Malbec and Petit Verdot increasing in importance. Interestingly, this is also happening at some other wineries in the region, with the likes of Vasse Felix and Juniper Estate also moving to increase use of Malbec.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – DJL – 2014. (17.5pts – $24). Ripe berry fruit the focus here. Cherry, raspberry, cedary oak, plum and spice. The whole package is approachable and food friendly, with the acid providing cut through on the finish.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. (18.5pts – $37). The fruit on the nose is pristine and ripe, with blueberry, blackcurrant and hints of eucalypt and peppermint. The length is noteworthy, with spice, aniseed, supple texture and mineral characters. The tannins build on the close, but remain fine and savoury. The oak sits nicely in the background, allowing the fruit to shine.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stevens Road – 2012. (18.5pts – N/A). A different style, with cedar and spice over fine red fruits. The palate is full of minerals, giving a graphite-like character. The length is excellent and the mouth-feel is a textural treat. The chewy tannins subdue the fruit a little, yet this is a big, powerful wine that is full of personality. Drinks well now, but will be better in 10 years+.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013. (18.8pts – $85). Pristine fruit that is fragrant and perfumed, with a savoury edge. Spectacular, silky fruit on the palate, with texturing tannins and oak (50% new) that polishes the fruit nicely. The fruit fans out like a peacock’s tail on the finish. Immense length. A very fine wine that can be drunk any time over the next 20 years. (Available 1^st June 2016).

Xanadu –Malbec– Stevens Road – 2013. (NR – $60). More textured and savoury, though the fruit is quite fine. Again, the length is noteworthy. Plump and supple, the fine tannins are prodigious, yet harmonious. Graphite-like minerality is a feature of the finish.

Xanadu –Petit Verdot – Stevens Road – 2011. (NR – $60). Lovely ripe plum-like fruit on both the nose and palate. Silky and finely textured, the perfumed, floral notes become more apparent with air. The tannins have softened enough to make for great drinking. (50% new oak).

Winery in Focus – Xanadu (Part One)

Winery in Focus – Xanadu

Part One – Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 4^th May 2016

When I think about producers of Chardonnay and Cabernet in Margaret River, Xanadu must now rank amongst the best of them. This is as a result of the consistently high quality wines that Glenn Goodall and the team have produced over the last 3 – 5 years.

It has not always been plain sailing at Xanadu though. The winery went on a roller-coaster ride; starting as a small family owned winery, expanding to the point where the venture was listed on the stock exchange, before collapsing and being sold off to raise funds.

This is where the Rathbone family stepped in, purchasing the winery and select vineyards in 2005. One of the key decisions made was to appoint Glenn Goodall as Senior Winemaker in time for the 2006 vintage. Glen had been assistant winemaker since 1999, so knew the vineyards well.

Whilst 2006 proved to be a difficult vintage for the region, the string of excellent vintages from 2007, combined with a slow evolution in winemaking style, has seen their wines hit great heights, with spectacular reviews from the likes of James Halliday.

For this tasting, I focussed on the two principle varieties of the region. There are a number of wines that make up the range, including Next of Kin, DJL, Xanadu, Stevens Road and Reserve.

The DJL was the starting point for the tasting. This range is made in a style that suits earlier consumption, reflective of the price point. The oak is dialled back, and the fruit is allowed to sit front and centre.

It is once you get to the Xanadu range that the quality really becomes apparent. Stephens Road comes from a single vineyard planted by John Brocksopp in 1989. This has 24 hectares under vine, including Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, Shiraz, Muscadelle, Graciano and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Reserve range is made up of fruit from the original Langan vineyard. Despite their relatively southerly location, Stevens Road and Langan are some of the earliest ripening vineyards in the district, reflecting the impact of microclimate.

Chardonnay

All of the Chardonnays do not undergo malolactic fermentation and, since the 2013 vintage, undergo wild yeast ferment. Almost all of the fruit is from the Gin Gin (Mendoza) clone. All Chardonnays in the range get 100% barrel fermentation, with frequent lees stirring to give a creamy, nougat like texture.

The first vintage of the reserve was in 2008 whilst the first Stevens Road was in 2009. Both wines have undergone wild yeast ferment since launching.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – DJL – 2015. (17 – 17.5pts – $24). Clear varietal expression. Peach, subtle lees/oak influences, fine acidity. Not overly dense, making this easy to pair with food. The gentle lime and mineral notes on the finish add to the appeal. Near seamless palate transition, which is remarkable for a wine of this price point. Will fill out with a year or two in bottle, but why wait?

Xanadu – Chardonnay –– 2014. (18pts – $37). Quite closed initially, but a clear step up in terms of fruit concentration and depth. The creamy oak frames the fruit adding gloss and texture without overt flavours. Peach and melon fruit notes, with texturing minerality. Again, the palate transition is near seamless, and the length noteworthy. There is an immediacy to the wine that is charming. (Estate vineyards 80% with 20% from Wilyabrup).

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2013. (18.3pts – $70). There are subtle wafts of pineapple and tropical fruit on the nose, with less of the stone fruit aromas apparent. The structure and texture are quite different, with the fine-grained oak more prominent and the fruit just a touch suppressed at present. Struck match minerality adds depth; clearly, there has been more work in the winery. Lemon brûlée to close. This really opens and builds with air. Up to 5 years in the cellar will see this really fill out.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2014. (18.5pts – $70). Perfumed and almost a floral nose. The palate is creamy, textured, supple and very long. The density is a feature. Again, the oak is texturing rather than an obvious flavour. More accessible than the 2013, but just as age-worthy. A lovely wine. (Due for release on 1^st June 2016).

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2013. (18.5+pts – $85). Tighter and more zesty than the 2014 in a less-is-more style. This is relatively taut initially, but there is no denying the fruit quality. The minerality and acid drive on the finish is noteworthy, ensuring that this will live for many years in the bottle. This needs patience, but will reward in spades. Fantastic wine.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2014. (18.7pts – $85). Subtle and supple nose, with gentle fruit aromas. Reminds me of a floral garden in spring. On the palate, the balance is outstanding, with the high quality fruit gently massaged by taut oak. The finish is very long and fine, the palate transition seamless. This sits in the modern style, where the fruit has been dialled back somewhat, but still provides tremendous enjoyment now. (Due for release on 1^st June 2016).