Winery in Focus – Houghton

Part One: Cabernet

Barry Weinman: 18^th May 2016

Houghton must surely be the most important winery in the history of Western Australia. Established in 1836, Houghton set the standard for Western Australian wines. Much of Houghton’s reputation can be credited to the skill and passion of Jack Mann, a brilliant winemaker who has made numerous remarkable wines over a number of decades.

Fast-forward several decades and winemaking is now safely in the hands of Ross Pamment. Ross is one of the unsung heroes of the Australian wine industry. Despite Houghton being absorbed into what is now the Accolade portfolio; the wines are now as good, if not better, than ever.

The challenge for Houghton now, is to build consumer recognition for their premium wines (and their senior winemaker). A great example of the impact that this tactic can have is Penfold. Under Peter Gago’s stewardship, Penfold’s reputation has continued to climb, along with their sales.

This tasting highlighted that the comparison to Penfold is warranted in another very important way; the tremendous depth of the range. Whilst I focussed on the premium wines for this tasting, all wines over-deliver on quality, when compared to the price.

The Jack Mann is a magical wine, the equal of any Cabernet in the world. The Gladstones also deserves to be considered at the very top of the Cabernet tree. The fruit for these wines come from different regions, but the quality is equally impressive.

Ross Pamment should be a name that all wine-lovers recognise and respect. Here’s hoping that the marketing team can generate the publicity to make this happen.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as an indication only.

Reviewed

Cabernet Sauvignon

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2011 (18pts – $32). From Margaret River, there is a step up in terms of fruit quality and density compared to the likes of Crofters. The suppleness of the fruit on the palate is a feature, but with air, the textural components really start to build. The tannins are very fine, yet add firmness to the finish, getting quite chewy to close. Whilst age-worthy, this is more approachable than some of the higher priced offerings.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.5pts $65 from the winery). Almost peppery fruit, with blueberry and peppermint notes. The fruit on the palate is superb, though the structure is still firm. Whilst youthful, the extra time in bottle has allowed the fruit to start to open up and express. Very good now, but will live for many years. From the Great Southern.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – C.W. Ferguson – 2012 (18.5pts $65). Blackcurrant fruit to the fore, with chocolate and hints of coffee on the nose. Dense, ripe and textured, the palate is very long. On the finish, the oak adds texture rather than overt flavours. Needs years to reach its peak, but the fruit builds nicely with air. A lovely wine.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2012 (18.7pts $70). Closed, taut and structured, there is a touch of mint and eucalypt over fragrant blackberry fruit on the nose. The palate is firm yet balanced, the fine tannins and supple oak keeping the fruit in check. The dusty tannins add texture. A superb wine that needs 10 years before drinking, and will live for many more. From Margaret River.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2013 (18.7pts NA). Superb nose with blackberry and hints of vanillin oak. This is more accessible than the 2012. The supple and fragrant berry fruit is set against silky oak and refined tannins. With air, this gets grippy and dense, the fruit needing time to blossom. As good as it is now, this will be better in 10 – 15 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2011 (19pts – NA). From the Justin vineyard in Frankland River. Dense, powerful and unyielding nose, that only hints at what is to come. There are hints of mint and eucalypt over dark red berries. The palate is outstanding, with great depth of fruit and excellent mouth-feel. The fruit is superb! The finish is somewhat closed, with the supple oak and very fine tannins holding the fruit quite tight at the moment. The length and depth of the fruit is breathtaking. Majestic!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2012 (19pts, $100). Superb fruit quality. More approachable initially than the 11, yet of equally high quality. The supple mulberry and blackcurrant fruit really shines. The palate gets all spicy, with pepper, cloves and a touch of minerality. The fruit carries the length of the palate, with the fine tannins and oak providing a counterpoint. A powerful wine that will reward patience. One of the world’s great wines.

Winery in Focus – Xanadu (Part Two) – Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 7^th May 2016

It is the Cabernets of Xanadu that have really made people pay attention, winning multiple trophies at capital city and national wine shows. The 2013 Xanadu Cabernet, for example, was awarded the best Cabernet Sauvignon trophy at the 2015 National Wine Show in Canberra.

Winemaking tends to be as hands-off as possible. The aim is to get it right in the vineyards, and allow the fruit to shine. The southern fruit tends to have higher natural acidity, meaning that no acid (or tannin) adjustment is required. Where possible, finning is also avoided.

There is a move away from Merlot as a blending partner, with Malbec and Petit Verdot increasing in importance. Interestingly, this is also happening at some other wineries in the region, with the likes of Vasse Felix and Juniper Estate also moving to increase use of Malbec.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – DJL – 2014. (17.5pts – $24). Ripe berry fruit the focus here. Cherry, raspberry, cedary oak, plum and spice. The whole package is approachable and food friendly, with the acid providing cut through on the finish.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. (18.5pts – $37). The fruit on the nose is pristine and ripe, with blueberry, blackcurrant and hints of eucalypt and peppermint. The length is noteworthy, with spice, aniseed, supple texture and mineral characters. The tannins build on the close, but remain fine and savoury. The oak sits nicely in the background, allowing the fruit to shine.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stevens Road – 2012. (18.5pts – N/A). A different style, with cedar and spice over fine red fruits. The palate is full of minerals, giving a graphite-like character. The length is excellent and the mouth-feel is a textural treat. The chewy tannins subdue the fruit a little, yet this is a big, powerful wine that is full of personality. Drinks well now, but will be better in 10 years+.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013. (18.8pts – $85). Pristine fruit that is fragrant and perfumed, with a savoury edge. Spectacular, silky fruit on the palate, with texturing tannins and oak (50% new) that polishes the fruit nicely. The fruit fans out like a peacock’s tail on the finish. Immense length. A very fine wine that can be drunk any time over the next 20 years. (Available 1^st June 2016).

Xanadu –Malbec– Stevens Road – 2013. (NR – $60). More textured and savoury, though the fruit is quite fine. Again, the length is noteworthy. Plump and supple, the fine tannins are prodigious, yet harmonious. Graphite-like minerality is a feature of the finish.

Xanadu –Petit Verdot – Stevens Road – 2011. (NR – $60). Lovely ripe plum-like fruit on both the nose and palate. Silky and finely textured, the perfumed, floral notes become more apparent with air. The tannins have softened enough to make for great drinking. (50% new oak).

Winery in Focus – Xanadu

Part One – Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 4^th May 2016

When I think about producers of Chardonnay and Cabernet in Margaret River, Xanadu must now rank amongst the best of them. This is as a result of the consistently high quality wines that Glenn Goodall and the team have produced over the last 3 – 5 years.

It has not always been plain sailing at Xanadu though. The winery went on a roller-coaster ride; starting as a small family owned winery, expanding to the point where the venture was listed on the stock exchange, before collapsing and being sold off to raise funds.

This is where the Rathbone family stepped in, purchasing the winery and select vineyards in 2005. One of the key decisions made was to appoint Glenn Goodall as Senior Winemaker in time for the 2006 vintage. Glen had been assistant winemaker since 1999, so knew the vineyards well.

Whilst 2006 proved to be a difficult vintage for the region, the string of excellent vintages from 2007, combined with a slow evolution in winemaking style, has seen their wines hit great heights, with spectacular reviews from the likes of James Halliday.

For this tasting, I focussed on the two principle varieties of the region. There are a number of wines that make up the range, including Next of Kin, DJL, Xanadu, Stevens Road and Reserve.

The DJL was the starting point for the tasting. This range is made in a style that suits earlier consumption, reflective of the price point. The oak is dialled back, and the fruit is allowed to sit front and centre.

It is once you get to the Xanadu range that the quality really becomes apparent. Stephens Road comes from a single vineyard planted by John Brocksopp in 1989. This has 24 hectares under vine, including Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot, Shiraz, Muscadelle, Graciano and Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Reserve range is made up of fruit from the original Langan vineyard. Despite their relatively southerly location, Stevens Road and Langan are some of the earliest ripening vineyards in the district, reflecting the impact of microclimate.

Chardonnay

All of the Chardonnays do not undergo malolactic fermentation and, since the 2013 vintage, undergo wild yeast ferment. Almost all of the fruit is from the Gin Gin (Mendoza) clone. All Chardonnays in the range get 100% barrel fermentation, with frequent lees stirring to give a creamy, nougat like texture.

The first vintage of the reserve was in 2008 whilst the first Stevens Road was in 2009. Both wines have undergone wild yeast ferment since launching.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – DJL – 2015. (17 – 17.5pts – $24). Clear varietal expression. Peach, subtle lees/oak influences, fine acidity. Not overly dense, making this easy to pair with food. The gentle lime and mineral notes on the finish add to the appeal. Near seamless palate transition, which is remarkable for a wine of this price point. Will fill out with a year or two in bottle, but why wait?

Xanadu – Chardonnay –– 2014. (18pts – $37). Quite closed initially, but a clear step up in terms of fruit concentration and depth. The creamy oak frames the fruit adding gloss and texture without overt flavours. Peach and melon fruit notes, with texturing minerality. Again, the palate transition is near seamless, and the length noteworthy. There is an immediacy to the wine that is charming. (Estate vineyards 80% with 20% from Wilyabrup).

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2013. (18.3pts – $70). There are subtle wafts of pineapple and tropical fruit on the nose, with less of the stone fruit aromas apparent. The structure and texture are quite different, with the fine-grained oak more prominent and the fruit just a touch suppressed at present. Struck match minerality adds depth; clearly, there has been more work in the winery. Lemon brûlée to close. This really opens and builds with air. Up to 5 years in the cellar will see this really fill out.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2014. (18.5pts – $70). Perfumed and almost a floral nose. The palate is creamy, textured, supple and very long. The density is a feature. Again, the oak is texturing rather than an obvious flavour. More accessible than the 2013, but just as age-worthy. A lovely wine. (Due for release on 1^st June 2016).

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2013. (18.5+pts – $85). Tighter and more zesty than the 2014 in a less-is-more style. This is relatively taut initially, but there is no denying the fruit quality. The minerality and acid drive on the finish is noteworthy, ensuring that this will live for many years in the bottle. This needs patience, but will reward in spades. Fantastic wine.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2014. (18.7pts – $85). Subtle and supple nose, with gentle fruit aromas. Reminds me of a floral garden in spring. On the palate, the balance is outstanding, with the high quality fruit gently massaged by taut oak. The finish is very long and fine, the palate transition seamless. This sits in the modern style, where the fruit has been dialled back somewhat, but still provides tremendous enjoyment now. (Due for release on 1^st June 2016).

Tuscan Wine Exploration

Barry Weinman: 24^th April 2016

When I think of the wines of Tuscany, two wines typically come to mind. Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. But as this tasting amply demonstrated, that is selling this remarkable region short. The super Tuscan wines and those from Bolgari in particular are some of the real stars of the region.

It is ironic that some of the most expensive wines from the region, such as Antinori’s Solaia carry the generic IGT Toscana appellation, due to the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, which precludes the use of the Chianti name.

In this line-up, the Tignanello from Antinori shone brightly in a group of excellent wines.

Reviewed:

Antinori – Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese – Solaia – IGT Toscana – 2004 (18). Complex leather and earth notes, an almost floral fruit character and a touch of savoury plum. The palate has tobacco, hints of licorice, spice and plum like notes. Cedary oak to close and fine tannins. Developed, but not that old.

Antinori – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon – Tignaello – 1999. (18.7). Savoury, earthy notes on the nose. With leather and licorice, there is great depth and power, with a silky, almost seamless finish that is very long. Talc-like tannins and supple acid cuts through on the finish. Fine, elegant and drinking superbly, this is a magical wine.

Valdicava – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – 2001 (18). Very different style, with distinct structural components and chewy tannins. If anything, this is still a touch closed. Excellent length to the almost cherry-like fruit. Very powerful, this will live for years to come.

Farnito – Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon – Camponibbio – 2005 (17.5). Freshness of fruit a highlight. Sweet, ripe and supple fruit on the palate. Silky, the textural components sit well with the fruit. Excellent length, the fruit runs right through the palate.

San Filippo – Sangiovese – Le Lucere – Brunello di Montalcino – 2010 (17.8). Youthful and vibrant, with an abundance of fine fruit complemented by supple tannins and oak. Whilst firm, there is a lovely immediacy to the wine. Souring acidity and dusty tannins to close. Great now, but will age well for years.

Nino Negri – Nebiolo – Sfursat – Sforzato di Valtellina – 2010 (17.5). A more serious effort, with depth and structure. Almost chewy, the fine tannins sit nicely with the fruit. Supple and approachable, yet there is good depth. Nice.

Uccelliera – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – Reserva – 2004 (18.5). Real depth to the fruit. Powerful, chewy, textured, structured and very long. The fruit is still suppressed now. An amazing wine that will easily live for another 10 years.

Antinori – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon – Tignaello – 2008 (18.3). More accessible, with almost cherry notes. Savoury and spicy, with white pepper highlights. The supple textural notes complement the fruit. A delight to drink.

Frascole – Sangiovese – Chianti Rufina – 2012 (17.5). Savoury, sesame and water cracker notes. The cherry-like fruit is chewy, long and supple. This is drinking a treat.

Antinori – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – Pian delle Vigna – 1997 (17.8). Savoury, acidic, taut. Very long, but just a touch tough.

Fantini – Edizione – Cinque Autoctoni – 14 – 2012. (18.5). This might have a very complicated name, but the wine is excellent. Super sweet ripe fruit. Cedar and vanilla from the oak. Supple structure, excellent length. Remarkably approachable, given the structural components. Will live for a long time. Massive bottle is an environmental disaster, but looks great. ($47 from My Wine Guy)

Monsanto – Sangiovese – Chianti Classico – 2007 (18) What a lovely wine. The fruit is bright and fresh, but the savoury, structured nature of the wine suggests that further aging will be of benefit. Long and savoury, with souring acidity, this is a somewhat traditional style

Il Palazzone – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – 2006 (18.5). Super sweet fruit set against fresh oak that has a distinctly vanillin oak characters. The palate has traditional structural elements making this savoury and smart.

April New Release

Barry Weinman: 16^th April 2016

Those that know me know that I am not the biggest fan of Rosé. In general, I would rather drink a Riesling or a perhaps a refreshing Italian Moscato.

The Domaine Gavote, however, has made me rethink my bias. Here is a refreshing wine that is full of life, making for an excellent drink. This is imported direct by Lamont’s in Cottesloe and should be available for $25 – $30.

The other highlight of this tasting was the new Moss Wood Cabernet. A brilliant wine that is destined for a long future.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Rosé – DJL – 2015 (16.5 – $24). A really interesting wine that has a combination of sweet and savoury characters. Floral, the mid-palate fruit sweetness gives way to fresh acidity, with decent length on the close. Well balanced and great drinking cold.

Domaine Gavote – Rosé – Cuvee Clarendon – 2014 (17 – $30). Hints of strawberry and musk on the nose. The palate is savoury, dry and long. This is a food-friendly style that has plenty of appeal. The hint of sweetness adds flesh to the palate. An aromatic style, typical of Provence.

Deep Woods – Rose – Harmony – 2015 (16.5 – $15). Savoury, with a core of bright fruit. Long and almost chewy, with a long supple finish. A decent effort.

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prendiville Reserve – 2014 (18+). Sweet fruit and savoury oak on the nose. The depth and power of the intense fruit obvious, yet there are pretty, almost floral notes on both the nose and palate. Chewy and textured to close, the fine tannins fan out, accompanied by the fragrant fruit. Perhaps a touch old-fashioned, but a lovely wine now – 20 years. The best wine that I have seen under this label in recent years.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2013 (18.5+ – $120). Brilliant colour. Closed, tight and powerful, yet the tannins and acid do not overwhelm the high quality fruit. Just a baby now, this will blossom with time. Very long, silky and focussed, with great palate transition. The depth and power are noteworthy.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 18^th March 2015

The wines under the Streicker/Clairault labels continue to impress. In this tasting it was the entry level Cabernet from Clairault that made the biggest impact. Whilst the Estate and Cellar-Release are both impressive, it was the value of the Margaret River Cabernet that made me pay attention.

Reviewed

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013 (18.5+). An appealing nose, showing red currant/berry, and a slightly herbal edge to the fruit. The tannins are slightly dusty, but very fine, with cedar notes from the oak. Long and dense, this gets almost chewy to close. An excellent cool climate Cabernet that has a long future. Trophy for best Cabernet at Melbourne Wine Show.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Bin 9 – 2013 (18 – 18.5). A captivating wine that ticks all the boxes. The fine, red berry fruit is silky, giving way to somewhat drying tannins. The oak adds depth rather than overt flavour. Long and relatively powerful, this evolves in the glass and the mouth. An excellent wine. Drink after 2022. ($30 from Dan Murphy). 

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Family Crest – 2014 (18). A remarkable wine from McLaren Vale that has depth to the ripe fruit combined with poise and charm. Whilst Cabernet may not be fashionable in the “Vale” this is an excellent example that will benefit from medium term cellaring. (RRP $24, but available for $19).

Arivina Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18). Lovely mint and blackcurrant fruit, with hints of cedar and supple spice. The palate is supple and succulent, with layers of complex fruit, balanced by fine tannins that are ever so slightly grainy. Only mid weight, with hints of coffee from the oak adding to the appeal on the finish.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (17.9). (RRP $27). Great colour. Intense, ripe fruit on both the nose and palate. Plenty of extract and tannins, but these are remarkably fine, leaving the finish almost silky. An excellent drink any time over the next 10 years. Good value Margaret River Cabernet.

Shiraz – New Release

Barry Weinman: 12^th March 2016

The Hollick was the surprise package of this tasting. An excellent wine that became quite compelling once it had a chance to open up. At $25 it is also excellent value.

Reviewed

Hollick – Shiraz – 2013 (18.2) The deep purple colour in the glass is almost impenetrable. Quite closed on the nose, with hints of licorice and blackberry. There are plum characters on the palate, with a chocolate-like edge. The finish is firm and structured, courtesy of the fine oak and tannins. An impressive wine with a degree of richness to the fruit. Will benefit from a few years in the bottle. Fruit from Wrattonbully (RRP $25).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2013 (18). Opens with attractive cedar/pencil shavings notes from the oak, over a core of quality fruit. The palate has licorice, spice, fennel and ripe plum notes, all wrapped in a lithe, medium-bodied structure. There are hints of eucalypt/mint to close. An attractive wine of some charm. (RRP $38).

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Two in the Bush – 2014 (17.5). (RRP$23). A richer style, with roast meats over dense plum-like fruit. There is a touch of eucalypt/mint to add interest. The palate is quite fruit-forward, with decent palate weight. That said there is enough structure to make this a decent drink.