Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Scorpo – Current Release

Reviewed: 22^nd September 2013

Situated in the Mornington Peninsula, Scorpo wines has quietly established a reputation for producing some of the region’s finest, though understated, wines from pinot noir, chardonnay and shiraz. Winemaking is headed up by Sandro Mosele, whom, along with the Scorpo family, endeavours to produce wines that speak of the region, with as little intervention as possible in the winery.

This tasting allowed me to look through the current range and the wines were right on form. That the estate wines (chardonnay, shiraz and pinot noir) were on form is no surprise, given the reputation that these wines command on the east coast. It was the pinot gris and norien pinot noir that were the biggest surprise.

The pinot gris is delicious, with crunchy pear and creamy, barrel ferment characters, while the pinot noir is excellent current drinking.

The wines from Scorpo tend to slip under the radar, but the quality makes finding them worth the effort.

NB: This was not a blind tasting. My points are best used as a guide only.

Reviewed

Scorpo – Pinot Gris – 2012 (17.5). The nose opens with creamy barrel-ferment notes. The lifted fruit is reminiscent of pear skin, with a lovely, musk-like edge. On the palate, the fruit is ripe and creamy, with an almost crunchy pear texture on the finish. This wine is fermented in older oak and sees batonage/lees stirring and wild yeast fermentation. Delicious.

Scorpo – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.8). Closed and creamy on the nose, but the palate is full of life and vigour. Bright acidity, supple oak, creamy texture and a struck match minerality on the finish. Tight and modern, the acidity is very refreshing.

Scorpo – Pinot Noir – Norien – 2012 (17.7). Beautiful nose here, showing bright, fresh cherry fruit and lovely spice. Typical, approachable and succulent. Not overly complex, but has excellent length and tannin integration. Delicious.

Scorpo – Pinot Noir – Estate – Single Vineyard – 2011 (18). Closed and restrained, yet supple and inviting. Picked in early April (one month later than normal) with great care taken in the vineyard to ensure that the fruit coming off was top notch. Initially, this appears tight and grippy, though it opens nicely with air. Very long and refined, this is a delight to drink now, but will be even better in 5 years. A great result.

Scorpo – Shiraz – 2008 – (18). Some earthy, dusty notes to start, but there is a core of ripe red fruits over supple white pepper and silky tannins. All fruit was de-stemmed and cold soaked prior to fermentation. A superb wine that is restrained and very fine, yet the power starts to build on the very long finish. Hard to resist.

Teusner – New Release

Reviewed: 22^nd September 2013

I caught up briefly with winemaker Kim Teusner (pictured right) and viticulturalist Michael Page (left) to look through their range of wines to coincide with the release of the 2012 reds.

Teusner is a relatively new label, having released its first vintage of Joshua in 2002. Since then, the team has been able to secure access to several old vineyards, and are producing high quality wines in a variety of styles and price points.

For me, the highlight of the tasting was The Family shiraz. The fruit for this came from a single vineyard in the Stonewell sub-region of the Barossa and is chock full of Barossa goodness. Whist this only has limited availability, it is worth tracking down as it really delivers on the price/quality scale.

Reviewed:

Teusner – Riesling – 2012 (17.5). Typical Eden Valley style that is closed and restrained, with an oily minerality that adds interest. The palate has lemony fruit and is well balanced. While quite lean now, this has good mouth-feel and will fill out with a few years in the bottle.

Teusner – Sauvignon Blanc – Woodside – 2013 (17). Lifted sherbet and lemon aromas with a nice zesty lift. A balanced wine that avoids the pungency that some cool climate versions can get, yet retains a zesty freshness that defines the style.

Teusner – Shiraz – The Riebke – 2012 (17 – 17.5). Delicious, ripe, red fruits here. The palate is juicy, succulent and more-ish. There is little in the way of oak on show, which allows the cherry, plum and redcurrant fruit to shine. Now – 5 years.

Teusner – Shiraz – The Family – 2012 (18). Compared to the Riebke, this has more depth, intensity and power, with cedary oak in the background. The palate is structured, with some grip to close, courtesy of the oak and fruit tannins. There is real depth, intensity and length to the superb fruit. At $25, this is a bargain!

Teusner – GSM – Avatar – 2012. (N/A).

Teusner – Grenache/Mouvedre/Shiraz – Joshua – 2012 (18). Really fragrant and spicy on the nose (fennel and thyme), while the palate is silky and supple. This is deceptive as, whilst it is a lovely drink now, it has the power and structure to build and age with time. The fragrant grenache fruit is the main feature, while the mouvedre and shiraz add structure and a peppery lift.

Teusner – Shiraz – Righteous FG – 2010 (18.5+). Incredibly concentrated and essence-like. The nose is an amalgam of superbly dense fruit and quality oak. Despite being amazingly concentrated, the palate is supple and silky, with a degree of elegance on the finish. The tannins are very fine and the length prodigious. An amazing wine that is full of latent power. Will live long!

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 20^th September 2013

This tasting was defined by the number of outstanding wines on show. Interestingly, several of my favourites came from producers that I know little about. The wines from Salomon, Jericho and Shottesbrooke were all noteworthy.

I will write more on each of these producers over the next few weeks.

This is not to say that some of the established players did not show well. Yalumba’s Octavius was also in top form. A dense, powerful wine for the long hall.

Reviewed

Jericho – Shiraz – 2012 (18.5). Initially, this is restrained, taut and closed, with subdued fruit characters. The quality though is outstanding with wonderful depth and texture. The length is a defining feature, as is the balance and velvety mouth-feel. Will build and develop for many years. A superb wine from McLaren Vale.

Salomon – Shiraz – Finniss River – 2010 (18.5). This has both a captivating nose and wonderful palate. This is powerful, yet elegant and restrained at the same time. The palate is very long and near seamless, with subtle spicy notes. The fruit is quite closed, but the quality is evident in every aspect of this wine. An outstanding, sophisticated wine with great balance.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Eliza – Reserve – 2010 (18.5). Here is another cracking wine from the 2010 vintage. Has an attractive nose that combines concentrated fruit with supple oak characters. The palate is initially closed, taut and linear, with bright acid and fine, drying, slightly chewy tannins. With air, this really opened up to display wonderful fruit that had layers of depth and complexity. The palate is very complex, expressive and alive. A beautiful wine that deserves ten years in the cellar.

Yalumba – Shiraz – Octavius – 2008 (18.5). An impenetrable wine that took two days to really open up and show its class. A great wine that demands patience.

Salomon – Shiraz – Finniss River – 2011 (18.3). Ripe fruit on the nose that hints at fresh plum and forest floor. A delicious wine that has a remarkably soft mouth-feel yet has tannins that are fine and persistent. The fruit builds depth and breadth in the glass and on the palate, evolving and enticing a further sip. Whilst this is a big, powerful wine, it expresses a softness that is very attractive. An excellent wine at the start of a long life.

Grant Burge – Shiraz – Filsell – 2011 (17.8). Inky colour and really deep smelling, this wine has quality stamped all over it. Presents precise fruit, with a vanillin oak lift. Masculine and structured, yet with elegance and poise. Chocolate fruit notes to close. Long and textured, this needs a few years to show its best, as the tannins are quite firm on the finish.

Jericho – Shiraz – Adelaide Hills – Syrah – 2012 (17.8). Lovely, peppery fruit to open here. The spicy fruit is balanced and nicely textured. The fruit is not overly dense, but has been handled sympathetically. Long and balanced, this could easily take 5 years in the cellar. Another producer who is trying to differentiate the Adelaide Hills style by adopting the French term Syrah.

Salomon – Shiraz – Finniss River – 2009 (17.7). Cooler climate fruit that is precise and focussed. Shows mint, red berries, bright cherry fruit, white pepper and a touch of aniseed. Long and sappy finish with silky, slightly dusty tannins that adds life and interest. Very smart wine that is good now or in 10 years.

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – 2012 (17.5). Whilst quite a big wine, this has quality, cooler climate fruit characters. The ripe, aromatic fruit is supported by supple, chewy tannins. A youthful wine with inherent balance and good length.

Riesling – New Release

Reviewed: 10^thSeptember 2013

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – Contours – 2008 (18.5). Initially, this appears oily, developed, toasty and maturing, though there are no signs of kerosene, yet the fruit is wonderfully dense and rich. The wine really opens and builds with time in the glass, allowing the fruit to really express itself. The toasty notes settle back into the wine and there is amazing length. This became much fresher in the glass, suggesting that further aging would not be out of place. The next day, this was a stunning drink!

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Figtree – 2011 (18). Lovely lemon blossom fruit here. The nose is floral, aromatic, tender, supple, round and balanced. Yet there is a minerality that runs alongside bright acidity that combines to confer a very long finish. The touch of residual sugar softens the palate making this an excellent drink now, yet the intensity of the quality fruit suggests that aging is assured.

Grant Burge – Riesling – Thorn – 2012 (17.5+). Tight, with minerals, floral notes and delicate citrus. Actually, everything about this wine is delicate. Precise and very long, this is a youthful wine with real potential.

Koonowla – Riesling – 2013 (17.5+). Musk, sherbet and lemon blossom on a nose that is pretty and perfumed. Right now, the citrus-like acidity on the palate is the defining feature. This will be very good, but it needs a year or two to soften and will live for many more. From the Clare Valley.

Ferngrove – Riesling – Off Dry – 2012 (17.8). Spectacular nose that combines lovely citrus fruit with the first signs of development. The palate is bright and fresh, yet again, shows some oily complexity. The delicate finish is very long. This is off dry, but the citrus fruit and acid match the residual sugar perfectly. Irresistible now, but could also be aged if required.

Angove – Riesling – Long Row – 2013 (17.4). Lean and fresh, but perfectly balanced. Long and fine, though just a touch linear and one-dimensional. A delicate, fine wine that has the potential to age for a few years. At $12, this is awesome value.

Pinot Noir

Reviewed: 9^th September 2013

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2011 (18). More meaty notes to open on the nose. Follows through on a palate that is earthy, dense and structured. Precise, long and firm, this is a very good wine, but it does need a year or two to come together. Excellent balance!

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2010 (18). Superb wine! There is lovely cherry fruit that is both dense and beautifully textured. The mouth-feel is spot on and the finish silky. The tannins and oak are very fine, yet it is the length of fruit flavours that stands this apart. Some sappy, souring notes on the finish add life.

Philippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Cote de Nuits – Villages – 2010 (17.7). The different style here is reflected in the lighter colour. This wine is leaner, has less forward fruit and more pronounced acidity than the other wines reviewed here. There is also more medium toast oak on display. There is a lovely saline character that runs through the palate that makes food highly desirable. Excellent length, this just needs a few years to hit its straps. Good purity of fruit, with a touch of earthiness and minerals. Opens to become beautifully perfumed. Not hugely complex, but attractive drinking.

Ad Hoc – Pinot Noir – Cool Mistress – 2012 (17.4). The lighter colour is reflected on both the nose and palate. A good wine, though the fruit is less dense up front. The length of flavours highlight the quality of the wine. Subtle, smoky oak to close.

Mt Maud – Pinot Noir – 2007 (17). Good fruit quality here, which has been nicely handled. On the palate, there is cherry fruit and spicy highlights. The finish is dense and long, with a silky texture. The length here is fantastic. Ready to go now.

Italian (varietals) Cellar Tasting

Last Sunday Wine Group

Reviewed 25^th August 2013.

Given the reputation of some of the wines tasted, it will come as no surprise to hear that this was a fantastic event. The big surprise though, was the quality of the Giaconda nebbiolo. Spectacular stuff.

Reviewed

Mesh – Riesling – 2003 (18). Developing excellent aged characters. The acid is softening and the fruit building richness. Excellent length. Will last for some time, but drinking a treat now.

Piazzo – Nebbiolo – Barolo – 2008 (17.6). Hints of tar and roses, in a fragrant package that has leathery edges. The tannins are fine, though very firm and persistent. Quite good balance, but needs a few years for the fruit tannins to soften.

Muscarello – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Villero – 2006 (18). A very light colour here. Superb nose and palate, showing floral fruit, that is silky. Initially this is quite soft in the mouth, but there is deceptive depth and power. Lovely now, but will continue to evolve.

Isole e Olena – Sangiovese – Cepprarello – IGT – 2004 (18.1). An attractive blend of dense fruit, power and structure. Shows ripe, powerful fruit that has earth, licoroce and spice notes. Actually quite cabernet-like with mint and red berry characters. Has mint and red berry fruit on a palate that is very long and has superb balance and structure.

Tenuta San Guida – Sassicaia – 1987 (18). Wow, a dense, powerful and structured wine that has medicinal and dusty notes. Very long and powerful, with chewy, textured tannins, yet the finish is surprisingly silky and supple.

Luke Lambert – Nebbiolo – Heathcote – 2008 (17.5), Lovely nose showing bright, cherry-like fruit, with some herbal and jube-like characters. Opens to show blackcurrant, cherry, redcurrant and earthy notes.

Castello del Cuculo – Barbera D’Alba – Bricco del Cuculo – 2010 (18). Cherry fruit, with earthy/spice accents and cedary oak. Long, refined, supple and silky, with excellent persistence and length of flavours.

Case Ibidini – Nero d’Avola – 2011 (17.8). Amazing density here. Long, fine, rich and persistent. From Sicily.

Nada Fiorenzo – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Rombone – 2006 (18.5). Superb nose! Superb palate! This wine is all about the texture and mouth-feel, yet there is no doubting the quality of the fruit. Very fine, long and persistent with a finish that is silky, long and balanced. Outstanding.

Fontodi – Sangiovese – Flaccianello Della Peive – 2007 (18.5). Wow, the concentration of fruit here is outstanding, with more richness than the Rombone. Long and supple, showing quite more modern fruit handling and oak use. Excellent length.

Andrea Oberto – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Vigneto Rocche – 2004 (18). Super wine that combines depth and intensity with very fine fruit. Ripe and precise, though this has more savoury complexity. The finish is concentrated, chewy, long and fine.

San Vinceti – Sangiovese – Stignano – 2001 (17.8). More savoury than some here, but this is no less intense. Excellent depth and length to the fruit, with souring acid to close.

Giaconda – Nebbiolo – 2008 (18.5). Lighter colour, though still red rimmed. Developing, with tar like complexity. Chewy, textured, long, fine and delicate. Silky, supple and oh so drinkable. Superb wine that has a finish that fans out like a peacocks tail.

Elio Altare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – 2008 (18.5). Less overt and more tannic than the Giaconda, but equally compelling. Tar, chocolate, spice and cherry, in a long and silky package. Spectacular wine.

Roberto Voerzio – Nebbiolo – Vignaserra – Lange – 2000 (18). Tighter, tannic and firm. Great fruit, but needs years.

Roberto Voerzio – Nebbiolo – Brunate – 2000 (18.5). Initially appears quite developed, lacking the overtness of the others. Silky, long, fine textured, this builds and develops into a super wine. Stunning power, but still with finesse. Wonderful wine.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed 27^th August 2013

I continue to marvel at the current quality of Australian chardonnays. Never before have the wines been so elegant, refined and desirable. Ten years ago, there were a mere handful of wines that I would seek to drink, preferring to look to Burgundy for examples of fine chardonnay.

In this current tasting, of the 20 wines reviewed, three were awarded gold medals and a further three firmly entrenched in silver medal position. Given the price of good white burgundy, these wines are not only excellent quality, they can represent brilliant value!

Reviewed

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2011 (18/18.5+). Complex, yet restrained, with subtle grapefruit, melon and mineral notes on the nose. Lemon and lime juice characters drive the palate initially, though the very fine winemaking inputs leave a very fine impression on the finish. This is really silky and fine. Develops pineapple and stonefruit to close. Really came together the next day, with powerful, rich fruit flooding the palate. A great wine!

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2011 (18.5). Very pretty, almost delicate fruit here – this is lean and tight in the “modern” style. Serious fruit quality that has been picked a little earlier to retain acidity and poise. The palate is where the quality comes to life. This is seamless and very fine, though it needs 5 years to allow the fruit to build depth. A superb wine with hints of pineapple, lemon and ripe stonefruit. There is tremendous length and excellent balance, with the expensive (very fine) oak providing a sympathetic frame on which the fruit is built. My love affair with Cape Mentelle wines has been well documented in these pages over the last few years and the 2011 chardonnay only reinforces the attraction.

Heydon Estate – Chardonnay – The Willow – 2009 (18.5). Opens with minerals, curry leaf, struck match and very high quality (slightly charred) oak. This is a powerful wine in the Burgundian style. Dense, rich and mouth-coating, with bitter almond astringency to close. The palate is very fine framed, super tight, long and elegant, reflecting quality fruit, oak and winemaking. The next day, the palate came in to its own, becoming expansive and near seamless. (Drink now to 4 years).

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2012 (18). More overt power than with the Kevin John, but still with wonderful balance and poise. This is more nutty, with almond meal and cashew nut aromas. The palate is taut, yet there is wonderful depth to the fruit. In reality, this is quite closed, so a few years in the cellar will only help. Opens to show pristine fruit, lime-like acidity and near seamless palate transition. The quality oak is well integrated and adds to the mouth-feel.

Hutton – Chardonnay – Triptych – 2011 (17.5 – 18). Compelling nose here that is more obvious than some of the others in the tasting. Viscous and oaked but this is in balance with the fruit. The finish is long and fine, with excellent acidity carrying the finish. Lime juice acidity and pineapple to close, with nutty fruit developing in the glass.

Lamont’s – Chardonnay – White Monster – 2012 (17.4). More obvious fruit on the nose and the palate. Opens with pineapple fruit characters and decent acidity. The oak has been well handled adding depth to the palate. This is a style that is suited to early drinking and is one of the most accessible wines of the tasting. Aptly named, as this is a big, rich wine that has plenty of (very fine) oak characters adding depth to the fruit. An overt style that will please many!

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – Dragonfly – 2013 (17). Lovely fragrance here, with peach, melon and hints of nuttiness. There is a seam of citrus running the length of the palate. A bright, fresh and lively wine that has virtually no oak characters and would make a refreshing alternative to a young riesling or SB.

Thierry et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2011 (16.9). Nutty, spicy notes with peach-like aromas coming through on the nose. The palate is not overly complex, but possessing good length and persistence. A neutral, European style of wine that should work a treat with food. Smells like burgundy, tastes like burgundy… must be burgundy! Should also be good value.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed: 16^th August 2013

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18.5). Compared to the Diana Madeline, this wine has more obvious red fruits on the nose, though there is a tight, dusty backbone that is rigid and firm. The fruit here is perfectly ripe, though this is expressed in a leaner style that needs time in the bottle to develop and evolve. Whilst all potential now, this will be superb!

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prendiville – 2009 (18 – 18.5+). An attractive package that is an amalgam of dark fruits, spice, and earthy complexity. The tannin and oak handling sets this apart due to the finesse and poise that they confer on the wine. Very long and stylish, this is a wine of the highest quality that can be drunk anytime from now to 20 years.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeline – 2011 (18 – 18.5). At first, this is firm, lean and austere. Beneath the surface though, there is silky, quality fruit, supple texture and superb length. The tannins are very fine, casting a sprinkling of talc over the finish. Textured, elegant and refined, this is a wine for the lover of claret as, while it it lacks joy now, it will repay cellaring. One for the aficionado!

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2012 (17.5). Not giving away a lot on the nose, but this is well made and has quality fruit. Opens to show good red fruit flavours and aromas. The palate is structured, though the tannins are fine. The oak adds to the package without adding dominant flavours. (Remarkable quality, given that this is the third tier cabernet from Cape Mentelle).

Castelli – Merlot – 2011 (17+). Solid, dense, structured and firm, this wine has quality fruit, though it needs time for the fruit to uncoil and express itself. A touch linear now, but will fill out and get higher points with time.

Angove – Merlot – Organic – 2012 (17). Quite closed. The palate is structured, dense and long, showing dark fruits with an almost earth texture. Cedar and subtle spice from the oak to close. Long and sappy, this has very fine tannins and well judged oak. Excellent wine that has the potential to age for a few years.

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (16.9). Varietal cabernet fruit to the fore, showing hints of red berries, currants and mint. Hints of chocolate sit over pretty red fruits. Good fruit, length and texture make this an appealing drink.

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon – Deen De Bortoli – Vat 9 – 2012 (16.8). Bright fruit that is silky, yet mouth-watering. The palate has redcurrant and cherry fruit, with the spice add to the package. This wine has good length, but is not overly complex. A perennial bargain.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed 7^th August 2013

This tasting saw the new releases from Cherubino and Sandalford, and neither disappointed.

The highlights for the tasting were two wines from Cherubino (Ad Hoc and Laissez Faire) and the pair from Angoves.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Shiraz – Laissez Faire – 2012 (18 – 18.5). Lovely peppery fruit here on both the nose and palate that is very attractive. Initially, the nose is closed and tight, while the palate is restrained, yet silky and supple. Superb fruit and winemaking on show, though this wine is only hinting at potential now. Over a couple of days, this wine really blossomed to show beautiful fruit that is very hard to resist. This is compelling drinking at $50.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Prendiville – 2011 (18 – 18.5). Wow! This is a special wine, with fantastic, cool climate shiraz that has been brilliantly handled. Starts off refined, fine and elegant, yet there is an underlying intensity to the fruit that is disarming. Chewy and dense, the quality French oak adds texture to the mouth-feel rather than overt flavours. Very long, but needs time.

The Yard – Shiraz – Acacia Vineyard – 2011 (18+). Closed, tight, dense and powerful. Superb wine that needs years to open up and let the quality fruit sing. The finish is drier than the Sahara desert, with tannins that completely close down the fruit. With air this developed chocolate, plum, spice and cedar, with hints of licorice and pepper. Demands patience, but this is a worthwhile addition to the cellar.

The Yard – Shiraz – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (17.8+). More obvious fruit here, though this is a good thing. Rich and ripe, with a core of chocolate running through the palate. The tannins are very fine, though plentiful. Smart wine now, or in 10 years. This wine took two to three days on the tasting bench to hit its straps, but was a very rewarding drink.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Serious fruit on the nose, though this is the first wine where the vanilla/coconut characters from the oak sit over the fruit. This is not a bad thing, it is just that it will need a couple of years for the oak to settle into the fruit. Firm and drying, though the finish is quite silky.

Ad Hoc – Shiraz – Middle of Everywhere – 2012 (17.5+). The absolute bargain in the Cherubino shiraz line-up, and a delicious wine to boot. Opens with peppery, bright fruit that has plum, cinnamon and spicy notes. The palate is long and fleshy, with enough structure to guarantee aging. The finish is elegant and mouth-filling, making for a great drink now or in 10 years.

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2012 (17.7). Brilliant fruit, lovely structure, sympathetic oak. This is long and dense with drying tannins. Will reward short term cellaring. How this can be sold for only $15 dollars is beyond me!

Angove – Shiraz/ Cabernet – Organic – 2012 (17.2). Nice blend of ripe, peppery fruit and more complex, earthy aromas. This follows through on the palate, with bright cherry fruit, white pepper and dense, plum flavours. Softer tannins make this an easy wine to enjoy now with a meal, or to cellar for a few years for added complexity. Organic or not, this is a good drink and a real bargain.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Margaret River – 2011 (16.9). Lovely ripe fruit with smart oak. Refined, though this is a more obvious wine. The alcohol adds depth to the mouth-feel. Chewy, dense and textured, this is a good mid-week wine that could also be aged for a few years.

Bannockburn – Current Release Pinot and Chardonnay

Reviewed: 3^rd August 2013

Michael Glover, the winemaker at Bannockburn is a (self-proclaimed) very lucky man! According to Michael, the quality of the fruit that comes from the Bannockburn vineyards is so exceptional, that it makes him look good.

I am the first to agree that the fruit that goes into the Bannockburn range is truly outstanding. I am not so naive as to say, however, that the winemaker has not had a significant role in harnessing the quality fruit and transforming it in to a range of stunning wines.

One of the highlights of the tasting was to see the terroir of the vineyards expressed in each wine that we tried. Michael is passionate about site expression and believes that this only happens when yields are very low. I use the term terroir loosely, as for me, it is the intersection of the soil, the climate, the vines and, most importantly, the people who transform the grapes in to the finished product.

Michael’s fingerprints are all over these wines, but that is a very good thing. There is a consistency across the entire range, where texture, complexity and depth are valued over power and where the winemaking inputs are supple and subtle. Having said that, with the exception of sulphur, these wines are made without additions in the winery.

These are very high quality wines where the winemaking has allowed the fruit to truly express its sense of place, albeit in a very tight, age-worthy package. Even the sauvignon blanc (a wine of great complexity) would benefit from three to five years in the cellar.

The two highlights of the tasting were both from the stellar 2010 vintage. Both the “standard” chardonnay and the Stuart pinot noir are nothing short of spectacular. The rest of the range is remarkably consistent and of very high quality. In many ways my choices come down to personal preference, as these are all excellent wines.

Two caveats for the tasting: Firstly, this was not a blind tasting and the winemaker was present. Secondly, all the reds were sealed with natural cork.

Reviewed

Bannockburn – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.7). This wine has a very complex, worked and powerful nose, with spice, struck-match and flint-like minerality. The palate is dense and powerful, though surprisingly closed and restrained at present. Lemony, long and fine, I would like to see this again in a year or two, as it is sure to age well for 5+ years. 100% barrel ferment in puncheons. 2/3 French, 1/3 Italian (made from acacia rather than oak). The vines are 25 years old and have low yields (2kg/vine). Aims to be uniquely Bannockburn!
(After 3 days on the tasting bench, this developed remarkably floral fruit aromas).

Bannockburn – Chardonnay – 2010 (18.5+). Beautiful nose that stands out for its elegance and finesse, with hints of almond meal. There is a delicate minerality running through both the nose and palate. There is crisp stonefruit, with layers of creamy oak and delicate floral notes on the palate. Very long, though this is restrained and a touch linear now. Superb balance between the restrained fruit and quality oak. With near seamless palate transition, this is a spectacular wine! From 30-year-old vines, the wine spends 2 years on lees and has 100% malo-lactic fermentation. It took 24 hours on the tasting bench for it to open up and show its best, but the result was memorable!

Bannockburn – Chardonnay – S R H – 2009 (18). Richer and more developed, but yet retains the elegance of the standard release. Fine and restrained, with seamless oak and very precise, focused acidity to close. Mouth-feel and texture the key here. Whilst I marginally preferred the focus and poise of the 2010 “standard” release, this is a remarkably fine wine. Wait 5 years to start drinking. ($77, only 100 cases made).

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.8). Chewy, dense, textured, long, sappy and savoury. This wine is not about primary fruit, it is about the textural experience. There is, however lovely fruit underneath this, with spicy, dark cherry notes. The silky finish brings it all together, but it needs years for the fruit to emerge from its cocoon. Lovers of structured Burgundy will get a kick out of this wine.

The similarities to Nuit St George were remarkable, to the point that I had to open a bottle of 1er Cru Burgundy as a comparison. The similarities were marked, though there was a touch more ripeness to the fruit of this wine. 2009 was a low yielding, tannic vintage, and the wine had 100% whole bunch fermentation. 12.5% alc. $53 rrp.

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Stuart – 2010 (18.5+). In contrast to the structure of the 2009 pinot, this wine is seductive and totally gorgeous. Initially, this is lighter in structure, while the fruit is more floral. This is immediately approachable, yet has elegance, length and persistence. The perfume flows from the palate back into the nose, boosting the enjoyment further. Silky and very fine, though the structure and power really builds with time in the glass.

A delightful wine now or in five + years. The ethereal notes that this wine offered up as it sat in the glass harked to the great wines from Chambolle Musigny. (Named after the founder Stuart R Hooper. $70rrp and a bargain).

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Serre – 2008 (18.5). Gorgeous fruit on both the nose and palate, though this is cloaked in a shroud of restraint. On the palate there is cherry, spice and a wonderful silky mouth-feel. The long and savoury finish cries out for food. Again, this is near seamless. Amazing intensity with the proverbial peacock’s tail finish (the fruit really fans out and evolves, providing flavour and texture to the entire palate).

Using the comparisons to Burgundy again, this is more in the mould of Vosne Romanee. The fruit for this wine comes from a separate, close-planted vineyard. (9000 vines per hectare, average yield 500gm of fruit per vine, but can be as low as 250gm/vine). $91rrp.