Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

New Release Tasting

1 April 2013

As many of you would remember, there was a time when this style of wine needed to be consumed as young as possible. This was a result of both the winemaking techniques employed at the time, as well as the use of cork as the closure.

The current crop of wines are made in a fresher style and closed under screw cap. The result is that the wines are positively youthful on release and have the ability to improve for a year or two in the bottle (or more in many cases). This was beautifully demonstrated by the wines from Celestial Bay. Whilst obviously made in a similar style, the extra age of the 2010 conferred a degree of richness and balance that was very attractive.

The wine of the tasting was the Squitchy Lane. An excellent example of the fumé (oaked) style that will provide plenty of drinking pleasure over the next 2 – 4 years.

Reviewed

Squitchy Lane – Sauvignon Blanc – Fumé Blanc – 2012 (17.7). A complex wine that has seen more attention from the winemakers than the others on show here. The barrel fermentation has imparted a creaminess to the palate, while the lees contact has added texture and depth. Lemony fruit and acid carry on to a finish that is long and drying. A very smart wine with excellent fruit quality and and acidity. It just needs a year for the oak to fully integrate.

Celestial Bay – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17.5). Developing just a touch and starting to show some complex/funky characters that are quite attractive. The lemony fruit on the palate is complemented, rather than dominated by the acidity. There is depth to the fruit flavour and this has developed in to a softer style that lingers.

Celestial Bay – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.3). This is a very lemony wine, though there is a touch of complexity showing that suggests a touch of barrel ferment or extended lees contact. Long and savoury, this is a wine that I would like to drink. A chardonnay alternative?

Woody Nook – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Kelly’s Farewell – 2012 (17.2). Another wine that had unanimous support. Long, savoury, fresh and balance, the pristine fruit and taut limey acid drive the palate. A youthful wine with subtle power.

Celestial Bay – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17). A fresh and well made wine that is long and supple. There are no rough edges here and the citrus like acidity carries a finish that is very drying. Middle of the road in style and all the better for it.

Devils Lair – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Fifth Leg – 2012 (16.9). Closed on the nose when first opened, but develops pear, guava and a hint of herbs. This is quite a rich wine on the palate with grassy fruit over minerals, with a textural finish that lingers. Not your usual SSB, but a smart wine all the same with an attractive creaminess to the palate. Will be better with a year in bottle.

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Next of Kin – 2012 (16.9). Fresh and vibrant, the lemony acidity is the key feature of this wine right now. There is a touch of herbs, as well as crunchy pear and gentle floral notes. Tight and long, though the fruit is subdued. Great now cold on a warm afternoon, though I think this will be much better in a year or two.

Scuttlebutt – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2012 (16.8). Fresh and bright floral notes over nutty fruit characters. This is quite complex and suggestive of a touch of lees contact. In fact, there is a touch of phenolic richness to the wine. Long and savoury, this is a textural wine to savour rather than quaff.

Wrenoir – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Pip’s Vineyard – 2011 (16.7). Solid support from the entire panel for this wine. The nose leads off with nutty fruit that is gentle and mild. This is quite a neutral style, with perhaps a little lees work to add texture. The density of flavours and the textural component makes this one to pair with food.

Wrenoir – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Pip’s Vineyard – 2012 (16.7). A good effort here, with herbaceous, grassy fruit the dominant feature, but not showing any signs of greenness. There is good length and a salty/savoury tang on a finish that, while not bone dry, is fresh and alive. The acid is a touch dominant now, so a year or two in bottle will do this wine well.

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon & Riesling

New Release

Reviewed: 22 June 2012

A variety of styles on display here. The complexity of the sauvignon blancs that had seen some oak appealed to the panel, though, like chardonnay, they could do with a couple of years in the bottle to reach their peak.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Brown Brother Patricia dessert wine was lauded by the panel. A superb wine that will hold its own against many high priced Sauternes, though the style is different.

Reviewed – Dry

The Lane – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – The Gathering – 2009 (17.5+). Very textural wine. This is more akin to chardonnay, with creamy oak and lees/barrel ferment notes and lemony fruit. This is a powerful wine with great length and oak complexity. Like a good chardonnay, I would encourage you to give this plenty of air or a year or two in the bottle to allow the fruit to come through.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2011 (17.5). One of the more serious wine here, in that it has been deftly massaged in the winery. The quality fruit has been well managed and displays plenty of southern Margaret River grassy notes. The palate hads nutty flavours and is textured, intense and pristine. Very long with good mouth-feel, the acid is still firm. Oak complexity (courtesy of the 30% of the fruit that was barrel fermented), fills out the finish.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.2). Less grassy fruit and more tropical flavours than a lot of WA SB’s. Zesty palate that is long, with passionfruit pulp to close. Persistent and mouth-filling, the finish is very drying. A smart wine from Margaret River.

Chalk Board – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Cut grass on the nose, but there is a lot more going on here. I wonder if this has seen a touch of barrel ferment, as the textural component of the wine is a standout. Long and fresh, the acidity ties the palate together well. A surprisingly serious wine. Made by Wairau River from Marlborough fruit.

Galafrey – Sauvignon Blanc – Sauvy – 2011 (16.8). Racy, precise, textured and long, this is an excellent drink. This has quite delicate floral fruit, but I expect it to open up with a few more months in the bottle. There is a hint of residual sugar to balance out the palate nicely.

Mount Riley – Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough – 2011(16.5). Overt and attractive nose. Grassy and herbaceous to start, with tropical highlights building in the glass. Long and tight, this is a leaner style that is very drinkable.

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – La Bossa – 2011(15.5). Bright and fresh, though quite simple fruit. Pleasant, fresh fruit flavours combine well with a touch of residual sugar to make this an excellent quaff.

Reviewed – Sweet

Brown Brothers – Riesling – Patricia – 2008 (18.2). Amazing palate that is intense, yet very fine and elegant. Long and fine, this should not be served too cold. The balance here is the key, as the wine blends power, intensity and persistence with finesse and elegance. A complex, botrytis affected wine with dried apricot and citrus peel and acidity that gives the wine real life on the palate.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Botrytis – 2010 (17.4). Volatile, but in a good way with hints of varnish and resin. Much more viscous than the Clairault, with greater length on the palate and moderate persistence. Apricots, honey and marmalade on an unctuous finish.

Clairault – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2011 (17.3). Lovely nose redolent of apricots, but with much more to offer. Fresh, bright, long and intense fruit on the palate with just enough acidity to balance the sweetness. Intense and persistent, this is a lovely drink. (Though lacks the ultimate length of the best).

Juniper Estate – Riesling – Cane Cut – 2010 (17). Lighter and fresher than the others here, this is a little less sweet, and all the better for it. This will be the perfect foil for cheese or lighter desserts.

Chateau Coutet

Reviewed: 24th April 2012

I had the pleasure of sitting down to dinner with Aline Baly from Chateau Coutet whilst tasting through a number of vintages back to 1986. It was fantastic to see how the wines evolved over time and also how the different vintage conditions influences the style of a particular wine.

The blend of grapes going into Coutet remains constant; Semillon – 75%, Sauvignon Blanc – 23% and Muscadet 2%. Apparently, the proportion of sauvignon blanc is higher than that used by most other Sauternes producers. The purpose is to make the wine crisp/sharp, even nervy. An energetic Sauternes then? Aline tells the story that the name Coutet means knife, hence they feel obliged to make a sharp wine 🙂

One point that was raised on the night was the amount of bottle to bottle variation with some vintages. Again, the less than perfect cork can be held accountable. We did not try any bad bottles, it is just that with the older wines (’89 in particular), there were differing degrees of development.

Without doubt, the highlight of the evening was tasting the two bottles of Cuvee Madame. Only released in exceptional years and only 100 dozen made in a particular vintage. I believe that there has only been 14 vintages released to date, with the 1997 being the latest. I need to express my gratitude to Bob Winterbottom for supplying both of these wines!

Finally, the 2010 Bordeaux indent has just began, so contact your friendly retailer if you would like to order the latest Coutet.

NB. This was not a blind tasting, so my points are best used as a comparison between vintages rather than in absolute terms. That said, the best wines were outstanding.

Reviewed

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2007 (18). Obvious viscosity and sweetness, though the palate is very fine and taut, courtesy of the lovely acidity. The length is superb with honey, grapefruit and apricot fruit characters. Subtle and delicate, this will build in power and intensity with age.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2006 (17.7). Very delicate and fine, with lovely, floral fruit. There is less of the intense apricot/honey characters here, reflecting vintage conditions. Very closed at this stage, the finish is fresh, fine and seamless. An excellent aperitif.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2005 (17.8). Deeper hue than the 2006. More obvious botrytis characters on the nose, with plenty of apricot and orange marmalade. The palate is more intense, with some of the minerals that the house is (apparently) known for. Powerful and structured, with excellent length, the sweetness is more obvious.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 2004 (17.5 – 18). Another intense wine that has both bower and balance. More nutty, with more minerality than 2005. Very intense palate with good length. Did not have the carry and depth of the greatest wines, but the wine really developed character with time in the glass. One to watch.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1997 (NR).

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1989 (18.8). There was some bottle variation on the night, though none of the bottles were bad. Fantastic nose showing orange marmalade, apricot, floral notes, minerals and nutty fruit. One taster suggested a hint of Madeira. The palate was vibrant, and impressively fresh for a wine of such age. There was a degree of development, but the powerful fruit and superb acidity give the wine great length and penetration.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – 1988 (18+). Lighter and more feminine than the ’89, this is reserved and oh so subtle. Balanced, long, fine and restrained, with citrus highlights, this is remarkably youthful. A complete wine in a lighter style that will live for many years.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1989 (19). Remarkably fresh, concentrated and powerful, with marmalade and apricot aromas. The palate is incredible. Amazing intensity, but at the same time, elegant and restrained. Perfectly judged sweetness combined with mouth-watering acidity and a touch of viscosity to make this an incredible wine.

Chateau Coutet – Sauternes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadet – Cuvee Madame – 1986 (18.9). Youthful! This is another incredible wine that has lovely spiced fruit and perfume. The palate is very exciting. It is fine, refined, very long and starting to develop. This is a lighter style than the 1989, but totally delicious all the same.

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

Reviewed: 25th March 2012

The classic saying “don’t judge a book by its cover” came to mind when we were unmasking the wines at the end of this tasting. The opposite is perhaps true with wine. Do judge a wine by its packaging.

Wine bottles come in all shapes and sizes, but when it comes to premium wines, understandable, wineries put these in to packaging that stands out. Taller, wider and heavier bottles are the order of the day, combined with an upmarket label and, perhaps, a Stelvin Lux closure.

When it comes to (Western) Australian SSB/SBS, a bigger package is also associated with more intervention in the winery. These so-called “Winemakers Inputs” include:

  • Barrel Fermentation (Usually part of the blend would be fermented in oak barrels)
  • Lees Stirring (To increase complexity and texture in the mouth)
  • Extended Skins Contact (Some of the wine might be left in contact with the skins after crushing for a short time to increase textural components of the wine).

Depending on the amount of each, the wines are transformed from a lighter, fresh and floral style, to a more complex and serious wine that demands attention. These are often wines for sipping rather than drinking, and all will look even better with food. These wines will often age well for a few years as the wine integrates and the fruit becomes more expressive.

This style is typical of white Bordeaux where the wines can age for a decade or more.

If you have not tried one before, consider it as an alternative to chardonnay one night and make up your own mind on the style.

Reviewed

Clairault – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – B79 – 2011 (18). The nose is a cross between white Bordeaux and fine Chablis. Aromas of minerals, fruit and oak combine to make this a very fine wine. The palate has lovely lemony fruit and a long finish. The textural components from the winemaker’s inputs are spot on for this style of wine. Again, the new packaging is excellent.

Singlefile Estate – Fume Blanc – 2011 (17.8+). Zesty, this is just a bit too young at the moment. The nose shows barrel ferment and lees, but there is still fresh fruit to the fore. There is a lovely creamy finish and the length is spot on. This will be even better in a year or two when the fruit opens up and balances out the textural components and acidity.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2010 (17.5). Has more in common with high quality chardonnay than it does to a Margaret River SSB. Oak and spice dominate the nose and the finish. A quality wine that will go well with food.

Singlefile Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.4). A more serious style of wine than many here. This is showing green, herbaceous characters (green pee and asparagus) but I wonder if there is a touch of barrel ferment as well. Lively palate that is dry enough to keep the finish fresh and vibrant. Refreshing, intense and balanced.

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.3). Taut and fine, this is a quality wine. Everything is in place and there are no rough edges. If anything, it needs a year or two to allow the fruit to express itself, but a fine wine all the same. Smart new packaging.

Smith and Hooper – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17.1). Quite a complex aroma that has hints of lees and barrel fermentation. Lean and tight now, the quality of this wine is underlined by the textural component of the palate. Long and balanced, it needs a couple of years to show its best. From Wrattonbully and definitely worth a look.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Opens, with grass and lantana aromas. Smart wine that, whilst delicate, has real charm and appeal. Long and fine, the finish is all class. A very subtle wine to pair with seafood dishes.

Hay Shed Hill – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). Floral sweetness to the nose, with attractive tropical fruit highlights. The palate is zesty, vibrant and long, with grassy, gooseberry flavours predominating. Good length and a degree of (phenolic) viscosity that makes this an interesting drink.

Kim Crawford – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16.8). A very rich wine that has a degree of ripeness in evidence. The fruit is quite powerful, and the mouth-feel on the bigger side. Good acidity cuts through the finish, balanced by a touch of residual sugar. Will appeal to the in-laws.

Sarantos – Sauvignon Blanc – Soft Press – 2011 (16.6). Lovely nose that hints of green pear. In some ways, this reminds me of an Alsatian wine, with a mineral core to the fruit. Lemony fruit and acid dominate the palate and give this wine drive. I like it.

Houghton – White Classic – 2011 (16.5). Sherbet and tropical fruit over very fresh acidity and excellent length. Perhaps a touch reductive now, this needs a few years to settle and really shine. Bargain.

Grace Farm – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (16.4). A smart wine here, with forward citrus fruit balanced by juicy acidity on the finish. Not complex but quite long.

Oxford Landing Estate – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (16). Great value and smart new look.

Houghton – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (15.9). Another excellent value wine.

SB/SSB

New Release

Reviewed:15 November 2011

A variety of styles, from the super textural SRS to the cheap and cheery Vat 2.

Reviewed

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc – SRS – 2011 (17.5+). Creamy vanillin oak. Beautifully crafted wine. This has lovely texture combined with obvious, though refined and silky oak. Really creamy palate with refined lemony acid to close. Give it a year or two to fill out. An alternative to quality chardonnay.

Fire Gully – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). More complex. This is quite rich and mouth-filling with good texture and length. There are some savoury/nutty flavours that help the palate build.

Voyager Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Wow, this is a flavour packed wine with acidity to burn. Serve chilled to enjoy the grassy/tropical fruit.

West Cape Howe – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17). Textbook Western Australian SSB. Grassy, vibrant, juicy and very long. There is a surprising degree of complexity on the palate.

Flametree – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Embers – 2011 (16.8). This is an interesting wine. Pure fruit that is taut and precise. Very long, this has lovely mouth-feel. Fruit driven, this will provide excellent drinking over the next year or so.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (16.6). Nice fruit with grassy/gooseberry notes. Refreshing acidity and good length make for an easy drinking summer white.

De Bortoli – Sauvignon Blanc – Deen – Vat 2 – 2011 (16.5). Tropical and grassy notes. Mouth-watering acidity followed by a degree of phenolics and viscosity. The finish is quite long. Serve chilled on a warm afternoon.

Lovedale and OP & OH

The Wine And Food Society of Western Australia

Reviewed: 10 October 2011

Hunter semillon is very Sydney. People (and wine critics/judges) in NSW love the stuff. Outside of the state though, the reception is a little mixed. I think the reason for this is the lack of exposure. With the plethora of white wines coming from regions like Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Marlborough, Hunter semillon gets a little lost in the crowd.

It was with this in mind that I arranged this tasting. I wanted to get to know a little more about the style and what better way to do it than with a vertical tasting of Lovedale. This is an iconic wine with a show record that every other white wine in the country would aspire to.

The grape resources available to McWilliams are fantastic. Whilst the Lovedale is their top white and the Maurice O’Shea their top red, they also produce the OP & OH shiraz. This is a truly amazing Old Vines shiraz at a bargain price.

The Old Paddock (OP) vineyard dates back to the 1920’s and the Old Hill (OH) vineyard the 1880’s. That’s right, 90 and 120 year old vines! This counts for nothing if the wine is not made well though. The vertical tasting of OP & OH showed a gradual evolution in style. The latest wines are modern, though with hints of their Hunter origin showing through.

I would like to thank Greg West from McWilliams for kindly arranging the wines for this tasting.

As the tasting was not blind, my points are a guide only.

Reviewed

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1998 (18.5). Lanolin, lovely lemon curd and a developed richness. The palate is taut with plenty of lemony acid. Amazing length driven by fine acidity. A refined and elegant wine that, while aged, has a degree of freshness.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 1999 (18). Actually darker than the 98. Richer and more complex on the nose. The palate is fantastic, with honey and lemon. Falls away a touch before building to a very long finish. Balanced. Classic Hunter semillon with a lovely mouth-feel.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2001 (18.1). More zest to the citrus nose here. Oily, but again with purity of fruit. The length is again a standout. This is still a baby and will probably open up with another year or two in bottle.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2003 (18.3). Again, richer with more body than the last. Incredibly intense, yet beautifully balanced. Develops some toasty/caramel notes on the finish. The acid here is actually softer than in some of the earlier wines, but super fruit carries the finish.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2005 (18.5). Wow, this is spectacular, with so much going on. Lemon zest, lime, vanilla and lemon all vie for attention. The palate is juicy, textured and very long. An amazing wine of real structure and poise. A star and perhaps more powerful than the rest.

Mount Pleasant – Semillon – Lovedale – 2011 (18.5). Restrained and taut. Lemon zest and lime juice to the fore. This is reserved, but totally seamless. Has amazing presence in the mouth for what is a fairly neutral wine at the moment. The acidity and length define this wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 1996 (17.5). Wow, lovely nose. Developed, rich fruit. Think plum, mulberry, leather and spice. Very complex and intriguing. The palate is drying out a touch with dried herbs and spice and there is plummy fruit to close, with a touch of dark chocolate. Smelly but lovely. An old fashioned wine and the finish is not as long as some here.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2002 (18.2). Much fresher, with cherry and plum fruit notes. Wow, the fruit on the palate is fantastic. Cherry, but with tar and almost floral flavours. Very long and dense, this is just a baby. Fruit, dark cherries and chocolate carry the finish. A satisfying wine that has some earthy notes starting to show.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2005 (17.8). Closed. This is super fine and refined. Plum, mulberry, raspberry, cherry and tar all on display. Acidity freshens the finish and there is leathery fruit to close.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2006 (18). Fresh fruit here, but quite closed. Super long and refined, it is easy to dismiss this wine as it lacks the weight of the earlier wines. That would be a shame, as the length and persistence are spot on. Builds intensity in the mouth, with white pepper to close. A more feminine wine.

Mount Pleasant – Shiraz – OH & OH – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Amazing colour, nose and palate. This has it all. Super fruit and winemaking. The length of flavour is superb. The finish fans out and evolves. An evolution in style.

Mount Pleasant Shiraz OP & OH – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Almost purple in colour. A very tight/closed nose, but the palate is spectacular. Sweet, high quality fruit, and skilled winemaking combine to make superb wine. Very youthful and closed, this will be excellent. Delicate and perfumed, yet there is incredible intensity and complexity. Superb wine!

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon

Reviewed 14 August 2011

I continue to be surprised at just how tight and fresh Western Australian SSB/SBS/SB can be. Several wines in this tasting would really benefit from 6 – 12 months in the bottle to really settle down and they will drink well for a few years after that.

Not that many years ago, I would have suggested drinking the youngest wines available, but now I will go as far as to say that we should look out for the 2010 vintage wines, as they are more approachable right now.

The other surprising point from this tasting was the overall quality of the wines reviewed. I would happily drink any of the wines listed below.

Reviewed

Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Margaret River – 2009 (17.7). This is more interesting. Smoke, flint and match strike. A complex palate that has real depth of flavours. Obviously barrel fermented, this is a serious wine that needs some time to settle down. A quality wine that would make a good alternative to chardonnay.

Shepard’s Hut – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17.6). Nice wine this. Well judged tropical fruit that is ripe, clear and restrained. The palate is textured, long and fine. This is quite complex, with lees and perhaps a small portion of barrel fermented fruit. Excellent length and a touch of sherbet on a balanced finish.

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre 2010 (17.5+). Very vibrant and forward. Tremendous acidity over quality fruit. Delicate, pretty, complex, depth and length of flavours with a touch of viscosity and phenolics. Wild yeast, new oak in part. This will be even better with a year in bottle.

Mad Fish – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Sideways – 2011 (17.5). A lovely, seductive nose. Complex, enticing and round. Yes, there are some tropical and grassy fruit notes, but there are also complex aromas and flavours, courtesy of the cleverly handled winemaking. I wonder if this has had a small component of fruit that has had some barrel ferment and lees contact. Lovely texture and mouth-feel. Creamy finish with length.

Warner Glen Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Frog Belly – 2010 (17.5). Softer nose with gentle fruit that has grassy notes and a touch of musk. Soft, round and generous palate with just enough acidity to balance the palate. Surprising length and lovely texture. A good drink, and should be good value.

Suckfizzle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2007 (17-18). Amazing nose! Pungent and very complex. Yes, there are typical SB notes with grassy, herbaceous fruit characters, but there is so much more. Barrel ferment, oak aged, lees stirring, this has it all. The palate retains remarkable freshness despite all the worked characters. A powerful wine, but not for the faint hearted. This wine polarised the panel, as the style pushes the boundaries (I was a supporter).

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17+). Round, soft and textural. A youthful style that is very delicate and refined. This will blossom in time and score higher points too.

Talisman – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17). Punchy nose. Vibrant and lifted fruit that has hints of musk and sherbet with lime acidity to close. Good length and intensity. Well made, with floral fruit, this needs a couple of months for the ferment characters to completely settle. Worth a try.

d’Arenberg – Sauvignon Blanc – The Stump Jump – 2010 (16.7). Interesting nose suggesting that this has quality fruit notes. Grassy and herbaceous, but with a tropical lift to close. Smart wine of some appeal that should be very good value.

Chardonnay & Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

Reviewed 18 June 2011

The chardonnay bracket was one of the strongest that the panel can remember. The semillon and SB wines were also pretty smart. All in all, one of the more memorable tastings with a higher than usual success rate.

Highlights for me were the Mt Horricks semillon and many of the chardonnays. If I had to pick one, it would be the Brookland Valley. Perhaps this is not quite as great as the Leeuwin, Heytsebury and Xanadu, but it is a sheer joy to drink now and over the next five years.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008 (18/18.7). Remarkably similar to a Sauzet Puligny Montrachet that I was lucky enough to drink last weekend. Very restrained and tight, though the acid is exhilarating. Hints of stonefruit to what is a smart wine. Lots of minerals and textural components to close, including some very fine oak tannins. After one day, this started to get some flesh on the mid palate. After two, it showed a treat. As with all Leeuwin Estate chardonnays, this will age well. Indeed, this wine demands to be cellared for at least 5 – 10 years to even approach its peak.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytsebury – 2009. (18 – 18.5). Mineral, slate and a touch of match strike. Curry leaf, vanillin oak and creamy texture on the palate. A wine that has had all the treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging, malo-lactic fermentation). Powerful and complex, this is a wine with great length. The powerful fruit makes this a great drink now or over the next 5 years.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – 2009 (18.3). A touch more nervous energy in this wine. Superb quality fruit and excellent wine-making have combined to make a wine of finesse and elegance. The fruit has intensity and power, but this is held in check by the tight knit oak and pineapple acidity. A seamless palate with tremendous length. This received extra marks for being an excellent drink!

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Closest in style to the Leeuwin Estate. Curry leaf, flint and mineral notes on the nose with pineapple undertones. The palate is lovely, with intense fruit, seamless oak and a silky palate. The balance here is the key. There is an undercurrent of stonefruit on a wine that is complex and well worked. Needs 5 years to show its best.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18). A superb nose that is complex, yet full of life. Creamy, peachy fruit, with just a hint of curry leaf that signals quality. Lemony oak dominates the fruit on the palate, but this is a very tight and fresh wine. Look for grapefruit and pineapple with citrus acid to close. Give it a few years to watch it blossom as this became quite expressive as it opened.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and dumb at present. A good wine, with no rough edges, just lacks the excitement of the Estate. Good length and quality fruit. Light, fresh and elegant, with granny smith texture on a very long palate. A well made wine that is tight and lean in a contemporary style.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.7). Closed and tight, yet there is no questioning the quality of this wine. Lemony fruit with hints of sherbet and tropical fruit. The oak is subtle and adds finesse to the close. Good drinking without being over the top, this wine held its own in a big bracket!

S/SB

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2010 (17.7). Creamy and quite delicious. Honey, vanilla and lemony fruit, with a hint of crème caramel. On the palate, this is a powerful wine that has been given royal treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging). Creamy and textured, with lovely lemony fruit that runs to the end of the palate.

Carpe Diem – Sauvignon Blanc – Schiaffo – 2010 (17). A very interesting wine that is not your typical Margaret River SB. More golden in colour, this has lanolin and vanillin oak notes to open. Lemony and tight, the palate is near seamless. Slight char to the oak is apparent on the finish. A quality wine that needs a year or two to settle down. Try instead of chardonnay.

Stella Bella – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite pungent fruit on the nose reflecting the cooler southern end of the Margaret River region. Lychee, passionfruit, lantana and tropical notes on the nose. Plenty of acid on the palate with good length and intensity. Smart.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume – 2010 (17+). As the name suggests, made in a different style to most Australian SBs. This has seen 8 months in oak. Complex nose and palate that has creamy lees characters and a touch of toast from the oak. Has a passing resemblance to White Bordeaux. An interesting wine that is worth trying.

Drakesbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.8). A touch more creamy than some, which is suggestive of some lees contact. (None mentioned on the label). The palate is bright, grassy and zesty, with good mouth-feel and length. An approachable wine that is good current drinking.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2010 (16.8). A fairly mainstream example of this blend. Starts of quite closed, but develops grassy/tropical notes with air. Lemon brullee on the palate. Very tight and a touch austere right now, this is a wine that could do with a year in bottle to settle down. Not overly complex, but nice zesty lemon fruit, good length and refreshing acidity.

Sauternes – 2007

Reviewed – 29 May 2011

The Wines

I approached this tasting with great anticipation. 2007 is another great Sauternes vintage since 2000. When I found an excellent cross-section of wines in Dan Murphy, I thought this would make a great tasting for the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia.

My good friend John Jens points out that perspective is all important in life. To add perspective and make the tasting more interesting, I included a few cheaper wines and a bottle of Chateau d’Yquem. The results were surprising to say the least.

The cheaper wines showed really well with the De Bortoli a highlight for some, with strong support also for the Chateau du Pavillon and the Monbazillac. Surprisingly, the d’Yquem received little support, especially given the price.

For me though, the picks were the Guiruad, Doise Daene and Rabaud-Promis, while the Lamothe Guignard was the best value. All the wines tasted like Sauternes, although there was a fascinating difference in how this was expressed.

A word on the value of Sauternes. These wines are surely, the greatest wine bargains on the planet. Grand Cru Burgundy sells for $100’s of dollars a bottle and 1st Growth Bordeaux is selling for upwards of $1000 per bottle. These are, without question, some of the greatest sweet wines in the world. That they are currently available for between $30 and $70 per bottle (375ml) makes them irresistible.

Reviewed

Chateau Guiruad – Sauternes – 1er Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5+). Lovely nose that, whilst tight and closed, suggests real potential. Lovely mouth-feel, with some caramel notes over the sweet fruit characters. Beautifully balanced wine that has great length. The power of this wine became evident as it sat in the glass.

Chateau Doisy Daene – Barsac – Cru Classe – 2007 (18.5). Closed and concentrated. Wow, marmalade, apricot nectar, pineapple and orange marmalade. Viscous but the sweetness is perfectly balanced by the excellent acidity. Lovely mouth-feel and balance. Great length with a lovely minerality to close. With air the delicate floral fruit really expressed and the power and balance became apparent. Seamless.

Chateau Rabaud – Promis – Sauternes – 1er Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5). Lovely perfume here, with musk and honey over fresher fruit notes. Wow, the palate is sublime. There is lovely fruit that is pretty and delicate. Perhaps not as much botrytis here, giving the wine great elegance. Builds orange marmalade in the mouth. The finish is intense, powerful and long, yet retains elegance and finesse. Will evolve over several years.

Chateau Coutet – Barsac – 1er Cru – 2007 (18++). Initially, a straightforward nose of apricot. Apricot and orange marmalade on the palate to what was, again, a fairly straightforward palate. Good length, and enough acidity to prevent the finish from being cloying. This really evolved in the glass, developing great concentration and length of flavours. Really needs 10 – 20 years to show its best.

Chateau Lamothe Guignard – Sauternes – 2e Grand Cru – 2007 (18). Quite complex, with fennel, pear skin, minerals and citrus over the botrytis fruit. Viscous palate that has a good flavour profile. The finish is just a touch fatter yet the acidity balances the sweetness nicely. A very good wine that is only a little behind the best here. Opens and evolves to display lovely orange zest and fresh acidity to keep the finish clean. (Great value here – $31).

Chateau Lafaurie – Peyraguey – Sauternes – 1er Grand Cru – 2007 (17.5). Slightly darker colour. Again, reserved. The palate is more linear, with orange peel over almond and apricot jam. Not particularly sweet, but with good acidity.

Deen De Bortoli – Botrytis – Semillon – Vat 5 – 2007. (17+). Luscious and rich. Apricot flavours and aromas, with some apricot kernel and almond meal to follow. Not particularly concentrated, but good length and enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. This actually developed nicely in the glass. An absolute bargain at $11.

Pavillon De La Brie – Monbazillac – 2008 (16.9). Subtle aromas. The palate is sweet and fresh with pineapple, apricot and orange peel that is candied. Good length and balance. Again, not that complex, but quite a convincing effort and a bargain to boot. ($10 from Dan Murphy).

Chateau du Pavillon – Sainte Croix du Mont – 2004 (16.7). Clean and fresh. Stonefruit aromas with some complexity in the form of minerals and nuts. Good attack in the mouth, with good balance. Still very youthful.

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauternes 1998 (N.R.). Marmalade and toffee. Tremendous concentration and power. There are all the hallmarks of great sauternes. Apricot, orange marmalade and almond meal dominate the palate. The length is a stand-out and the acidity balances the intense fruit perfectly. The complexity really shone the next day, but the almond notes overwhelm the stonefruit. Not particularly sweet, but an interesting wine.

Chateau de Malle – Sauternes – Grand Cru – 2007 (NR). Unfortunately not quite right. Blame the cork.

Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc

New Release

29 July 2010

I am the first to admit that a line up of fresh young white wines is a challenge for the panel. The acidity can be very tiring. However, the diversity of styles here made this tasting easier to cope with.

The highlight for me was the oak aged wines. This is a developing style in the Margaret River region and the wines are loosely based on the white wines of Bordeaux. Some or all of the wine is fermented in oak barrels and a portion will then be matured for a period in oak.

These are often complex and powerful wines. They come with a warning though – they are different. Typically powerful and complex, these wines bear no resemblance to the classic style that drinkers have become used to.

Suckfizzle takes this style to the extreme and has been released with a few years bottle age. The Parterre from Fraser Gallop is more accessible and an excellent example. Both are excellent wines, but they will polarize.

Finally, the Amelia Park is my recommendation in the more traditional fruit driven style. This is great drinking.

Recommended

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre – 2009 (18). More grass and hay characters here. Complex, worked style with a touch of barrel ferment characters. This is a serious wine, but is more approachable than the Suckfizzle. An excellent wine and while it will not appeal to everyone, this is a great example of the style. Don’t be afraid to age this for a few years.

Suckfizzle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2007 (17.8). Wow, now this is good. Complex nose with lifted citrus, almond meal and grassy notes overlaying complex barrel ferment, oak and lees aromas. The palate is powerful with more of the worked characters. This displays minerality, texture and oak handling reminiscent of fine chardonnay. Powerful and serious, this is not a wine to quaff on a sunny afternoon. One for the aficionado.

Amelia Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (17.3). A modern, perfumed style. Fresh, balanced and attractive, this is a lovely drink. Not as complicated as the oaked wines, this has lovely passionfruit and tropical flavours and balanced acidity. Not the most striking, but perhaps the best drinking. A wine that will appeal to everyone.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Wild Ferment 2009 (17). Musk, gooseberry and tropical fruit. Floral fruit on a lifted palate. This is quite viscous and textured. Serious fruit on a long and satisfying finish.

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.9). Lifted aromatic fruit in the tropical/passionfruit spectrum. Fresh and vibrant, there is a talc like minerality under long and quite complex fruit. Good.

Amelia Park – Classic Blend – Mishmash – 2010 (16.7). Musk, sherbet and gooseberry on the nose. The palate is fresh and quite tight. There is excellent length and good texture, in a modern style. Good fruit notes on the finish linger.

Long Flat – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.5). More restrained and steely. Lavender and spice on the palate are attractive, but the finish is firm and dry. Good Value.

Windrush – Rose – 2009 (16.5). Savoury, earthy fruit. Quite complex with good length. One panellist found Rhubarb compote, and berry fruit.

Angove – Rose – Nine Vines – 2010 (16). Savoury and quite smart. Soft fruit and a touch of sugar make for good drinking.