Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Picardy – New Release

Reviewed: 14 September 2011

I was pleased to be able to make it to the new release tasting put on by the Pannell Family. This was especially so because there were six vintages of Tete de Cuvee on tasting. My overall impression is that Picardy continues to evolve and mature as a maker and the wines have never been better. Bravo!

On a separate note, I had an interesting chat to Bill about Picardy’s continued use of corks. He assures me that since around 2005, the issues around cork taint have largely been resolved. I might explore this topic more at a later date.

As this was not a blind tasting, my points are a bit rubbery, hence the spread.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2011 (17). Lifted fruit on the nose. Think green pear with a touch of minerality. The palate is generous, round and balanced with hints of stonefruit. There is even a touch of creaminess to close.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Nice wine this. Forward, ripe fruit with nectarine and a touch of vanilla from the (quality) French oak. The texture of this wine is a highlight, though the oak needs to settle a touch. Give it a couple of years to blossom.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Fragrant and perfumed, with lovely gentle spice on the nose. This is really spicy on the palate. The fruit is just starting to open up and the palate has quite expressive fruit. Excellent length and texture, with black fruit in the cherry spectrum. I love the fact that this has none of the smoky bacon characters that Pemberton pinots can get.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2009 (18+). A very pretty wine! The nose is defined by fresh white pepper. The palate has more cracked white pepper with plenty of spice. This is elegant, refined and medium bodied, with excellent length and intensity. The wine really builds and has good mouth-feel. The tannins are silky and fine, while the oak only plays a supporting role.

Picardy – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2009 (17). The most approachable of the current batch of reds. Opens with ripe red fruits and a touch of plum. This is soft, round and balanced. Drink now or in five years.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 1999 (NR). Well developed, yet there is still a degree of freshness to the red fruits. The palate is mouth-filling, round and long, while the balance is spot on. A touch of smoky bacon to close. Drinking well now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2000 (NR). Quite developed and needs to be drunk up.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2002 (NR). Lovely complex nose displaying some funky, slightly feral aromas. The palate is long, complex and beautifully developed. My pick to drink now.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2005 (NR). Much fresher, with bright red fruit. This is a lovely wine that, whilst starting to show developed characters, is still quite tight. Excellent length with some smoky notes to close.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2007 (18 – 18.5). Closed and tight, it is the mouth-feel that is the highlight of this wine. There are some vibrant fruit characters, precise structural components and excellent texture. A special wine.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Similar in style to the 2007, with a superb palate. The structure is spot on too. This is an easier wine to drink young than the ’07, but still deserves time in the cellar to show its best.

Burgundy Masterclass – Hosted by Philip Rich

Reviewed 28 August 2011

By

Dr Brendan Jansen

Philip Rich is a specialist wine importer and highly knowledgeable wine columnist with the Australian Financial Review. So when news of this tasting masterclass reached me, I was keen to attend.

Philip is indeed a European, and Burgundian in particular, wine aficionado. In the tasting he presented three brackets of Burgundy (2 of white, and 1 of red, all from the 2009 vintage) and a bracket of Barolos from the 2007 vintage in Piedmont, Italy (an appropriate accompaniment to Burgundy, as he described Piedmont as the Burgundy of Italy).

Here is a list of the wines:

Bracket 1 (White)

  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – 2009
  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – Baudines – 2009
  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – Vergers – 2009
  • Jean-Marc Pillot – Chassagne Montrachet – Morgeots – 2009

Bracket 2 (White)

  • Henri Boillot – Bourgogne Blanc – 2009
  • Henri Boillot – Meursault – 2009
  • Henri Boillot – Meursault – Charmes – 2009
  • Henri Boillot – Corton Charlemagne – 2009

Bracket 3 (Red)

  • Hudelot Noellat – Bourgogne – Rouge – 2009
  • Hudelot Noellat – Chambolle Musigny – 2009
  • Hudelot Noellat – Nuits St Georges – Murgers – 2009
  • Hudelot Noellat – Clos de Vougeot – 2009

Bracket 4 (Barolo)

  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – DOCG – 2007
  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – Arborina – DOCG – 2007
  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – Castelletto – DOCG – 2007
  • Mauro Veglio – Barolo – Rocche dell’ Annunziata – DOCG – 2007

Without going into detailed tasting notes of each wine, I will leave you with my general impressions of the tasting, and highlight a couple of the wines which were particularly impressive, for quality and/or value for money.

Firstly, the rise in quality as we moved from Village to Premier Cru to Grand Cru was quite apparent, manifest especially by both greater palate persistence and intensity.

Secondly, the whites in particular were all in a linear, more angular style. I for one prefer my white Burgundy in this style – no excessive oaking or buttery malolactic and leesy characters. In fact the 2 Meursault wines, though with more sinew and body than the Chassagne Montrachets, were nowhere near the plump examples I have tasted before, and I may have found it difficult to pick them as Meursaults in a blind line-up. Though partly a feature of the 2009 vintage, I suspect Philip has sourced wines with a more slender and elegant expression of white Burgundy – for which I am personally grateful!

My favourite of the first bracket was the Baudines (18 pts), which had a lovely texture and mouthfeel to accompany its superb acid. In the second bracket, the Corton Charlemegne (18.5 pts), though still young and closed, spoke of richness and balance on the palate, guaranteeing it a long life ahead.

Of the Red Burgundies, the Hudelot Chambolle Musigny (17.25 pts) displayed more funky, feral and undergrowth characters than the other wines – which I usually enjoy, but in this case possibly indicated some premature aging – it just tasted older than it should. The Nuits St Georges Murgers (18.25 pts) was cleaner and “purer’ with tight tannic structure and backbone. The Clos Vougeot was very young, and its scents had to be coaxed from within the glass. Nonetheless the palate already shows amazing depth, length, and complexity (including cherry fruit, liquorice and clove) (18.75 pts)

The Barolos, bar the first bottle (which I thought had too much volatility to represent a non-faulty bottle), were exemplars of the tar and roses/violets and ripe tannins of the appellation. The fourth (Roche dell’Annunziata – 18.5 pts) was my favourite, and even had some Barbaresco-esque spicy complexity.

To end, a special mention of the Vilmart Champagne, described by Tom Stevenson MW as being the ‘greatest grower Champagne I know’, which was served at he beginning of the tasting. This was a superb, perfumed, elegant and complete NV Champagne, and set the tone for a great tasting! (18.5 pts)

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Editors Note

$5.00 Bargains

Reviewed 5 August 2011

I awoke this morning to news of further financial turmoil and a stock market that is taking a pounding. What better time to review some of the cheapest wines in the market.

I put this tasting together at short notice as Woolworths has all the wines reviewed on sale for $5.00 until Tuesday the 9th August. To be honest, I was not expecting much, but all the wines reviewed here are quite drinkable. They will never be great wines, but they are honest and affordable to most people.

The picks for me were the De Bortoli traminer/riesling and the Penfolds Rawson Retreat. Both are quite good drinks and remarkable value. The Seaview was also impressive. For value, the Hardys stands out because it is in a one litre bottle.

Reviewed

Seaview – Brut – NV (16). Pleasant wine. Fresh nose with hints of yeast and grape. Soft and round, with enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. The residual sugar on the finish is well judged and there is impressive creaminess. A good quaff.

McWilliam’s – Riesling – Inheritance – 2010 (16.3). Lemony fruit on the nose and the palate. Quite long and zesty. Refreshing, and with reasonable length.

De Bortoli – Traminer/Riesling – Sacred Hill – 2010 (16.7). Floral and aromatic nose that is quite appealing (Musk, and tropical fruit). Again, the palate is soft, round and generous with a delicious finish. Surprisingly long, this has excellent balance. A great match for a spicy pork curry. (What I had for dinner).

Hardys – Chardonnay – R&R – 2010 (16). This is a real surprise. It actually tastes like chardonnay, with some melon and stone-fruit characters. Reasonable length and texture, with gentle creaminess on the finish. One litre bottle means big value.

De Bortoli – Cabernet/Merlot – Sacred Hill – 2009 (16). Fresh and vibrant fruit. This has red fruits and plum and a touch of spice. Not complex, but there is reasonable length.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Rawsons Retreat – 2010 (16.5). Nothing wrong with this wine! Plum, blueberry and spice. The palate is soft, yet there is enough structure and length to make this a perfect mid-week quaff.

Xavier Bizot’s Selection

3 August 2011

Xavier Bizot has an illustrious pedigree when it comes to wine. His family owns Bollinger, and his father-in-law is Brian Croser of Petaluma fame.

Xavier was at Lamont’s in Cottesloe to showcase a cross-section of the wines that he distributes in Australia. The range consists of imported wines and the wines made by Brian Croser under the Tapanappa label. This is an idiosyncratic range, but there is an obvious focus on producing stylish, refined wines from carefully selected sites.

Please note that the majority (I think all) of the wines were sealed with a cork. Also, this was not a blind tasting, so my points are only preliminary.

A special thanks to John Jens and the team at Lamont’s. Not only was the function superbly run, it delivered extraordinary value!

Reviewed

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Pinot Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Dry and austere on the nose, though there are obvious varietal and regional characters. Think slate and a touch of mineral. There are floral hints on the palate, but this is all about texture. Rich, round, viscous and even a touch oily. The length is a standout, aided by a touch of residual sugar to flesh out the palate. Sat well alongside some scallops.

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Premier Cru – Burg – Single Vineyard – 2003 (17-18). Aromatic, even Sauternes like aromas. Powerful fruit notes with lychees, tropical fruits and a touch of rose. The palate is very textured and viscous, without the oiliness of the pinot blanc. This is a high impact, turbocharged wine of some charm. The botrytis component turns the dial up to 11! A wine to taste on its own perhaps. The wines from Deiss focus on the vineyard perhaps more than the grapevine. They are using numerous clones of the various grapes, but also blending different varieties (13 in this case) when producing their single vineyard wines.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2008 (18+). Tight, austere and elegant. There is creamy fruit on the nose, with lees and very fine oak highlights. Excellent palate that is expansive yet full of nervous energy. This is modern and very tight. The palate has some pineapple, melon and lemon fruit characters. Fine and elegant, with a tangy finish courtesy of the lemony acid.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2007 (17-18). Quite a different style to the 2008. The fruit was initially very subdued, with the medium toast oak providing the dominant flavours and aromas. This really opened up in the glass displaying powerful fruit that soaked up the oak. Very powerful and complex. Most people preferred this wine, though I would rather drink the 2008.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Anjou Villages – Sur Schistes – 2009 (17). Floral fruit, though the structural components are never far away. Savoury, sappy, long and juicy, this is an interesting wine that has seen no oak. From the Loire.

Ceretto – Barolo DOCG – Zonchera – 2007 (18+). This is a lovely wine. Cherry and savoury notes that are fine and balanced. The palate has plenty of tar, leather and spice. The mouth-feel is tight and restrained due to the (very fine and supple) tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy right now, but the balance is spot on. The length of the finish is a feature. Give it 5 – 10 years to open up a little.

Tapanappa – Merlot – Whalebone Vineyard – 2003 (17 – 17.5). Perfumed nose redolent of violets. The palate has cedar, plum and floral notes. The tannins are still remarkably firm, though they are supple enough to make this a good drink. Needs years more to show its best.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2006 (17 – 18). I struggled to understand this wine at first as it was very closed and tight. The sweet, ripe fruit really builds and the textured finish is fine and savoury, with a souring finish. Points awarded for potential.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2004 (18+). This wine had to compete with the aromas of a superb Wagyu steak. The fruit shows chocolate, leather and spice, with tight knit oak in support. This has lovely mouth-feel and excellent length. It is supple, textured and quite delicious. A quality wine!

Francois Lumpp – Givry AOC – Pied de Clou – 2009 (17). Quite shy, with delicate fruit. This has been well made. Sympathetic winemaking allows the fruit to shine, as the oak is only secondary and the tannins are nicely polished. Good short term drinking.

Domaine du Clos de Tart – Pinot Noir – 2008 (NR). How do you point a wine that is so unique. From a single monopole vineyard, Clos du Tart is the name of the winery, the vineyard AND the appellation. Created in the 12th century, the vineyard has only had three owners in its history. Destined to live for many years, this is hard to appraise now as the wine is very closed… Herbal, savoury and a touch stalky, this is tight, focused and very long. Spicy notes (clove and cinnamon) dominate the palate. The tannins impart a talcum powder like effect on the finish.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Chenin Blanc – Coteaux du Layon – Rouannieres – 2009 (17.7+). Fresh and vibrant nose with floral soap/talc aromas. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated. The palate is viscous, rich and oily, with ground almond and cashew nut textural components. There is 220grams/litre of residual sugar, though the refreshing acidity prevents this from getting too cloying in the mouth. Delicious.

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Reviewed: 25 July 2011

A strong line up of chardonnay and pinot noir has resulted in a number of worthwhile wines. The highlight for me was the Yerring Station pinot, a wine that is full of poise. At $38 it is not cheap, but it is worth a try. (Dan Murphy have it online for $32).

The wines from Robert Oatley are also worth commenting on. Both displayed generosity to the quality fruit and skilled winemaking. These are wines that can be consumed in the short term with pleasure. At around $25, they represent value.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Chardonnay – Wilyabrup – 2010 (18). Forward, floral fruit with a hint of citrus and melon. This is a tighter style compared to the Oatley. It is long and refined, with a drying finish. Quality fruit and oak, with serious length. Avoid drinking now as this needs 3 – 5 years to show its best.

Robert Oatley – Chardonnay – Craigmoor AC1 Vineyard – 2009 (17.8). Lovely lemony fruit with subtle barrel ferment and lees effects. Creamy and seductive, the palate matches the nose, with flint and minerals to the fore on the (very long) finish. The charry oak is a touch dominant, but should settle.

Windows Estate – Chardonnay – Single Vineyard – 2010 (17.5). Very creamy, with well integrated winemaking inputs. Opens with peach and pineapple fruit, with a touch of mineral and curry leaf to add interest. The quality fruit has real length of flavour. Needs time to show its best. (Another really smart wine from this producer).

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – Fifth Leg – Crisp – 2010 (16.8). Floral nose with tropical fruits. Zesty and racy palate that hints at its chardonnay origins, but in a fresh and vibrant package. An excellent alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Yering Station – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2010 (18). More angular and precise nose. Beautifully weighted fruit that is more to do with sappy/savoury notes than bright fruit. The palate has excellent structure and mouth-feel, while the tannins are fine. Needs a few years to hit its straps, as this blossomed after sitting on the tasting bench for a couple of days. A very smart wine.

Robert Oatley – Pinot Noir – Mornington Peninsula – 2010 (17.6). Succulent, sweet and juicy fruit. This is at the ripe end of cherry, hinting at plum. There is also some tar, combined with earthy notes. The palate has more of the same in a soft and approachable style. Silky tannins and a touch of oak make for good early drinking. Good buying if you see it around $25.

Chard Farm – Pinot Noir – River Run – 2008 (17.5). Cherry fruit that is tight and focused. A complex wine. The fruit on the palate has excellent depth and balance. There is a slight astringency running through the palate and the tannins are fine and the oak supple. This is a powerful wine that has yet to reveal itself fully. Interestingly, this was preferred to its more expensive siblings in this tasting.

New Release

Fine Wine Wholesaler

Reviewed: 8 March 2011

Matt Holden, the State Manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers put on a tasting to show the panel some of his current portfolio. With the likes of Mosswood, Grosset and Pierro in the portfolio, the wines were sure to be interesting.

Abigail from Zarephath Wines also popped in to show off their current range. I was interested to note that all of their wines have a few years in the bottle, which means that some of the ageing has been done for you. I thought the chardonnay and pinot noteworthy and have included them in the review below, although they were not technically part of the tasting.

A highlight of the tasting was a bracket of 2010 rieslings from Grosset, Mt Horrock and Xabregas. I did not review these here as I have previously recommended these wines. The same also applies to the 2008 Mosswood Cabernet. (They all pointed 18 – 18.7 previously).

Reviewed

Grosset – Chardonnay – Piccadilly – 2009 (18+). This is a powerful wine with complex wine-making inputs. Restrained and taught, this has a fabulous mouth-feel. The creamy oak is seamlessly integrated, though the fruit is held back right now. There is a hint of the oak toast on the finish along with match strike and a touch of curry leaf. A very good wine with real length of fruit flavour, great acid balance and quality oak.

Pierro – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Reserve – 2005 (18). Very closed and unyielding. The palate is powerful and very long. There is blackcurrant fruit with plum, hints of eucalypt, cedar and tobacco leaf to close. The length is outstanding as is the texture. Needs years to evolve but a superb wine.

Grosset – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17 – 18). The fruit is quite lifted on the nose, very pretty and quite floral. The palate has excellent length, but the wine is very closed. Becomes more expressive with air, showing powerful cherry fruit that is textured and mouth-filling. (I really need to see this again after being opened for a day or two to see how it evolves).

Chapel Hill – Shiraz – Vicar – 2008 (17.8). Now this is big! Lovely hue. The nose has masses of cherry, plum, spice, tar and licorice. This is layered and very dense. Very textured palate that is very long and really builds intensity. Very silky tannins coat the tongue. Not my style but an impressive wine all the same.

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Wilyabrup – 2010 (17.8). Quite complex, yet retains a fragrant edge. Tropical fruit to the fore, with gooseburry and grapefruit. Vanilla highlights come from the oak. Tight and refreshing palate that is very clean. Almost seamless transition in the mouth and the quality oak influence adds complexity. Give it a few years. This is a serious wine and one of the best SSB wines I can remember from Western Australia.

Zarephath – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.7). A rich, round and generous wine showing the benefit of a few years in bottle. There is plenty of peachy fruit and the finish is very creamy courtesy of the oak treatment. Excellent length on a wine that is ready to drink now. (Not tasted blind).

Mosswood – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). Peach and nectarine fruit, with minerals and a touch of flint. Pineapple fruit on the palate with quality oak that is a touch forward now. This will settle and integrate with a few years bottle aging. Quality fruit and wine-making, but this is a style that needs aging to show its best.

Zarephath – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.5). The nose has cherry fruit to the fore, with strawberry, tar and licorice to add interest. The palate is quite soft and round, with fine structure and good acidity to close. (Not tasted blind).

Mosswood – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.4) Fragrant cherry and spice aromas. There is a degree of complexity, and depth to the fruit. The palate is taught and restrained, but there is a degree of power underneath. The length is excellent, but this needs 5 years to open up and start to show its best. History suggests that this will blossom with a decade in the bottle.

Penley Estate – Shiraz – Hyland – 2009 (17.2). Fragrant, with pepper and spice to the fore and a density of fruit that is very appealing. Concentrated fruit on the palate, with lots of pepper and savory, spicy notes. Good concentration and length. Smart wine with herbal notes to close. Value.

New Release

Reviewed 5 April 2011

An interesting tasting with some quite diverse wine styles. The pinots mentioned are all good wines, though the style varies from the lighter Stoniers to the Penfolds Cellar Reserve, which is closer to a dry red in style. In their own way, all are good value.

With the whites, the Juniper Estate semillon is a quality wine that offers an interesting alternative to the grassy semillon blends we see from the region. This wine has more in common with quality chardonnay than a fresh and fruity white.

Reviewed

Henschke – Pinot Noir – Giles 2009 (17.5/18). Quite savoury fruit characters on the nose with some gamey/sappy notes. There is a lovely spice to the fruit on the palate. The acid balance is spot on and the textural components are complimented by very fine tannins. This really hit its straps after a couple of days on the tasting bench. A good each way bet.

Penfolds – Pinot Noir – Cellar Reserve – 2008 (17.7). Lovely perfume here. Ripe red fruits over strawberries. There are also earthy notes with a touch of sandalwood and fragrant spice too. The palate is forward, and the bright fruit needs to settle into the textural components. This is a big wine, with some charred oak characters. A wine to watch.

Penfolds – Pinot Noir – Bin 23 – 2010 (17.6). Deep and vibrant colour. Powerful wine with cherry and spice over leather and earthy notes. This has all the usual pinot characters, though you would never call this a delicate wine. The palate is dense and velvety with some cedar showing through. The complex finish is very long and fine, with excellent texture. The grainy oak needs to settle down a touch before this starts to show its best.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5). More forward cherry fruit compared to some. Clear and precise nose that is very clean. There is fresh fruit on the palate with a slightly sappy, sour cherry finish that is refreshing. Not as complex as the others listed, but there is quality fruit and the wine is well made. Perhaps the most authentic pinot here, and certainly good value.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2009 (17.4). This took me by surprise, as the style is totally different. A serious wine that has been worked in the winery. The lemony fruit is complemented by fine vanillin oak. The lees contact has added a creamy component. The palate is rich and textured, though it really needs a year or two to settle down. Fume style.

Deviation Road – Pinot Gri – 2010 (17). Fresh and vibrant, with tropical fruit and passionfruit. There is also a touch of quince paste. The palate is fuller than the other whites here, with just a touch of viscosity. The finish is long and fine, with excellent balance. The length is a standout. A well made wine that is good drinking now.

Cumulus Wines – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Rolling – 2010 (16.7). Restrained tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and vibrant, with a surprisingly soft finish. Whilst this is an easy drinking style, the quality of the fruit is evident in the glass.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2010 (16.7). A soft and generous nose with very pleasant aromatics. The palate continues the theme, with fine talc on the close. A fairly neutral wine that opened up over a couple of days.

Geoff Weaver – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.5). More interest here. Vibrant and mouth-filling fruit. Juicy, almost succulent fruit with good acid balance and length. Refreshing, yet with enough going on to make for interesting drinking.

The Alchemists – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2010 (16.4). Good fruit here. Quite a complex nose with lanolin, fragrant talc and gooseberry notes. The palate is balanced and round. Not overly complex, but pleasant drinking.

New Release Tasting

4 March 2011

I sometimes think that we pay too much attention to cellaring conditions. After all, I have drunk many old wines that have been kept in cupboards and under beds for 20 or more years and they have often been very good. Every now and then, however, I am reminded that temperature can make a big difference.

I included two bottles of one of the wines in this tasting. The first tasted liked stewed plums, the second vibrant and fresh. The fresher bottle had been kept in my cellar, while the tired bottle had been at another venue for a while.

This leads on to the issue of buying wine. Have you checked out the storage conditions at many wine shops or wholesalers recently? Whilst some have refrigerated storage conditions, many are not much more than a tin shed! My advice is to buy wines as close to release as possible, or better still, in winter.

The highlights in this tasting were the wines from Paulmara in the Barossa and the Craggy Range pinot. The pinot was a delight to drink and the Paulmara wines were very impressive. The pick for the tasting on a value basis was the Sandalford Elements shiraz/cabernet. This delivers great drinking at a bargain basement price. You could even cellar it for a couple of years.

Reviewed

Craggy Range – Pinot Noir – Te Muna Road – 2009 (18.5). Dense and a touch meaty. There is a core of sweet fruit with cherry and strawberry accents over a bed of subtle spice. A touch of licorice and tar add interest. The palate is exceptional. Concentrated red fruits entwined with quality oak make for an impressive wine. Silky and seductive, there is enough souring acidity and tannins on the finish to make this excellent drinking. This was even better after being left on the tasting bench for a couple of days.

Paulmara – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – The Marriage – 2008 (18-18.5). Incredibly dense, the colour and nose are almost impenetrable. Immensely powerful, with licorice and spice over dark fruits. Whilst this has impeccable balance, the palate is shut down by fine tannins and quality oak. The length is prodigious, but the fruit is shy at present. This took three to four days to show its best.

Paulmara – Shiraz – Syna – 2008 (18+). Licorice and tar to open. The nose is dense and very powerful. The fruit is ripe, serious and textured, with chocolate, coffee, cinnamon, leather and tar. Incredibly dense fruit that floods the palate, yet is surprisingly silky, with genuine length. Nothing out of place, it just needs ten years to show its best. This is not for the light-hearted, but an imposing wine that retains enough elegance to carry food. The bottle (very heavy and large) is a thing of beauty, but an environmental disaster.

Frogmore Creek – Riesling – Iced Riesling – 2008 (17.9). Quite restrained, this has a lovely riesling-like nose. Powerful palate with obvious botrytis. Impressive intensity and length. Viscous and mouth-coating, this develops complexity without being cloying. Very long and enough acidity to keep the balance. (Desert Wine).

Sandalford – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Elements – 2009 (17.8). Floral fruit that is fresh and vibrant. Really lifted nose that has perfumed accents (violets). Hints of blackcurrant and cassis combine with cedar and a touch of cigar box. There is also a touch of mint and eucalypt. There is quality fruit on the palate that is, again, fragrant and a touch spicy. The tannins are fine, as is the gentle oak. Whilst not as complex as some, this is a good wine regardless of the price!

Cherubino – Riesling – Frankland – 2010 (17.7). (Dessert Wine). Quite a complex nose with some almond and apricot notes. A very pretty wine that has apricot, musk and fruit cake flavours. Very long and intense, I would like to see a touch more acid to balance the richness. Will appeal to many, and will go well with rich desserts.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Acacia Vineyard – 2009 (17.5). Pretty and perfumed in comparison to the Barossa wines. There is white pepper over pretty red berries with a touch of tomato leaf. I wondered if there was a touch of viognier included in the blend. The palate has some apricot, over the top of raspberries and spice. The oak and tannins are fine and ripe, though they dominate the fruit now.

Amisfield – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose. Taught and racy palate that is full of vitality. There is a density to the fruit that, when combined with the tannins makes this quite closed now. This is a serious wine with significant fruit weight and length. Not as pretty as the Craggy Range now, but will evolve and improve for several years.

Both Barrels – Tempranillo – 2008 (17.5). Fragrant and pretty. Ripe fruit on the palate that is juicy, with chewy tannins to close. Really needs food to show its best, but an authentic style with a good tannin structure. Quite silky, with high quality fruit and wine-making. Deliciously juicy.

Umamu – Shiraz – 2006 (17.1). Dense, yet fragrant, with licorice and spice. White pepper to the fore with silky tannins and oak that add structure. Not particularly open, but a smart wine with potential. Dense palate with length.

Mr Rigg – Tempranillo – Yacca Paddock – 2008 (16.8). Fragrant and spicy, with some earthy notes over the cherry scented fruit. Fresh and vibrant fruit on the palate with very fine tannins which are quite chewy to close. Minimal oak influence.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Friends

22 February 2011

The discussion at this tasting revolved around what it is, exactly, that makes a good wine. In particular, the question posed was whether it is the fruit characters or the textural components that are most important.

My personal view is that both are vital. Without appropriate texture and mouth-feel, great fruit lacks structure and balance. Sometimes, these wines can be referred to as fruit bombs. Conversely, I have tried superbly textured wines that have given me no joy to drink as the fruit has been subdued to the point of not existing at all. No amount of physiologically ripe tannins can make up for a lack of nicely rounded fruit.

In short, the best wines have ripe, though restrained fruit with a silky texture. The mouth-feel needs to be seamless and the length and persistence spot on. As you would expect, the Moss Wood fits the bill perfectly. At a more affordable price point, the Penley Estate – Phoenix is a very good example.

 

Reviewed

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Moss Wood Vineyard – 2008 (18-18.5). Very dense fruit. This wine is brooding. Some blackcurrant, cedar and spice slowly emerge from the glass. Hints of coffee and roast meat too. Incredibly dense palate. The fruit has tremendous power, but remains refined and elegant. The length is outstanding as are the textural components that make the mouth-feel superb. The oak is very tightly bound and the palate virtually seamless. Just bottled, so the faint smell of esters should dissipate rapidly.

Bests – Shiraz – Bin 0 – 2008 (18). Powerful aromas of anise, tar, blackcurrant and cassis, with fine spice and pepper running across the top. The palate is silky, refined and elegant with plum and textural components. Quality fruit and sophisticated winemaking in evidence. 10yrs +.

Penley Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18). There is powerful fruit on the nose, though the aroma profile is quite different to the Moss Wood. There are minty notes, but there are savoury, almost earthy notes that add complexity. The palate is rich, dense and displays a touch of viscosity. Very textured, this is a meal in itself. A very impressive wine, but perhaps not as easy to drink as some here. This could be described as a blockbuster. 15% alcohol, but does not show any heat.

Penley Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Phoenix – 2009 (17.8). Blackcurrant, cherry and cigar box on a really deep smelling nose. An inky wine with quality fruit. The fine grained French oak and supple tannins are holding the fruit back somewhat, so give it some air before drinking. Fine and dense, this will do well with a bit of age. Not as powerful as the Reserve, and better drinking as a result. (Received unanimous support from the panel).

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.7). Much more restrained and fine than some here. There are typical cabernet fruit characters on the nose. Long, solid, closed and dense, there is potential here. There is a hint of dried sage and forest floor fruit. Good length.

Oakridge – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.6). Impressive wine. The nose is complex and inviting with quality wine-maker’s inputs such as barrel fermentation, aging on lees and maturation in oak. Think melon and grapefruit with creamy oak aromas. The lees, barrel ferment and oak all combine to provide a very textured palate. Quality fruit and oak, this just needs a year or two to open up.

Bests – Riesling – 2010 (17.5). Lovely fragrant, even floral, fruit aromas with some passionfruit, musk and lime. Bright and focused palate that is extraordinarily fine. Good length with enough weight to carry the palate. A powerful wine with a slightly chalky mouth-feel.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale Vineyard – 2009 (17.2). Quite concentrated and dense, though there is lifted sweet fruit on the nose. This is a structured wine that is dense, ripe and long. The integration of fruit and oak is excellent. A serious wine that will benefit from bottle age.

Geoff Weaver – Sauvignon Blanc – Ferous – 2009 (17). Lemon and lanolin aromas with some barrel ferment/lees complexity. This is quite a restrained wine with lemony fruit on the palate with a touch of grapefruit.

Greed Sheep – Cabernet Sauvignon – Barrel Select – 2008 (16.9). Forward and fruit driven with a touch of herbal/medicinal notes. Generous palate is very pleasant. This is an easy drinking wine with plenty of appeal.

Juniper Crossing – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 – (16.7). Sweet ripe fruit with aromas of mint, eucalypt, redcurrant and cherry essence. The palate is silky but the very fine tannins (fruit and oak) dominate the finish at present. Smart wine.

Sarantos – Merlot – Soft Press – 2008 (16.7). Complex aromas of earth, mixed with vibrant red fruits and spice. The palate is quite lean and linear. Nothing wrong here, just a pleasant easy drinking red.

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Two in the Bush – 2009 (16.5). More density to the fruit on this wine. Fleshy, juicy and round, the flavours tend towards the (slightly stewed) plum spectrum. Generous and easy drinking.

Bunn – Cabernet Sauvignon – Preservative Free – 2006 (16.5). Very concentrated fruit but the colour is starting to turn on the edge. Has a sweet and sour component, with tobacco, tomato leaf and Chinese five spice. Obvious cool climate fruit on the palate, this is dense and savoury. Not really my cup-of-tea, but interesting. Holding up well and worth a look if you are after a preservative free wine.

Louis Latour – Pinot Noir – Marsannay – 2008 (16.5). Fragrant and floral, with dried herbs and strawberry fruit. This is a very light and fresh wine with a structure akin to a rose. A pretty wine that is juicy and mouth-watering. Will take food well.

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Element – 2009 – (16.4). Peppermint oil on the nose to start. There is also licorice, with tar and earthy aromas. The palate continues the theme with almost chocolate fruit. A very soft and generous finish makes this an excellent everyday red.

Sandalford – Merlot – Element – 2008 (16). Ripe and forward, with slightly stewed plum fruit. A generous wine that is made for immediate consumption. Typical of this style of wine.

Penley Estate – Merlot – Gryphon – 2009 (16). Mint and a touch of eucalypt with cedar and tobacco leaf accents. The grippy palate shows pleasant fruit underneath.

Penfolds 2011 Bin Release

Perth Town Hall

Reviewed – 10 February 2011

When I heard that Peter Gago and the team from Penfolds were coming to town to launch the new release of their famous “Bin” range of wines, I was keen to get a seat. The seat that they saved for me was, however, not one that I had in mind.

I found myself on stage as part of a three man panel to provide commentary on the wines during the evening. So much for sitting at the back of the room quietly sipping my wines. Not all was lost though because there were several significant points to come from the evening.

  • Penfolds are back – The evening was one of the best industry functions that I have seen. This was a professionally run event. From the slick event management team to the charismatic Master of Ceremony, nothing was left to chance. If only the panel on stage got to eat some of the numerous courses of food that, by all accounts, were delicious!
  • The people involved are passionate – Peter Gago is 100% committed to producing the best wines possible. David Phillips and the marketing team are also keen to re-establish Penfolds as the pre-eminent wine brand in the Australian market! They understand the heritage that they have inherited and are looking to build on it.
  • Grape quality is the key – If Paul Georgiadis, one of the suppliers of fruit to Penfolds, is anything to go by, then the numerous suppliers of premium grapes are focused on quality as the number one goals.

The wines are good – seriously good. The key here is the consistency right across the Bin range. From the riesling to the 389 and everything in between, these wines speak quality. It became immediately obvious that the 2008 wines are very classy. (Apparently, most of their fruit was picked before the heat wave). The wines from 2009 were also first rate and the Bin 128 was one of the highlights for the evening.

This tasting was not conducted blind, so it was hard to maintain objectivity when allocating points. Fortunately, I was able to review all the wines prior to the event to write my tasting notes. I have decided to give a point spread to many of the wines to try and get around any bias.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Riesling – Bin 51 – 2010 (17.8). Floral nose, with lime and lemon rind to start. Opened to show musk and lavender and a touch of sherbet. The palate starts off round and generous, with lovely lime acidity to keep the finish tight, then develops very floral fruit characters. Drink now or later.

Penfolds – Chardonnay – Bin 311 – 2010 (17.5+). A serious wine. The whole spectrum of wine-makers’ inputs are on show here. Barrel ferment, lees stirring and partial malo-lactic fermentation are all probably employed. Peaches and cream on the nose evolves into a mealy/nutty nose. The mouth-feel is spot on and there is lemony acid to close. A very modern cool climate wine that will improve for several years.

Penfolds – Pinot Noir – Bin 23 – 2010 (17.5). Solid colour in the glass, with dense fruit on the nose. Closed initially, but develops a lovely perfume with fruitcake spice and a touch of strawberry. The palate is an amalgam of cherry, spice, cedar and cinnamon, with a touch of leather to close. Sappy, savoury notes open up to bright red fruits to close.

Penfolds – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Bin 138 – 2009 (17.3 – 17.7). Very attractive purple hue courtesy of the grenache. Whilst there are attractive red fruits and supple tannins, the density of fruit is the key to this wine. Only medium weight in the mouth, the palate is fine and silky. The lack of any obvious oak flavours makes this a great match for food like a plate of antipasto.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 128 – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Classic Penfolds nose. The high quality concentrated fruit is very dense. Cinnamon, cedar, plum, licorice and black pepper. This is a very complex wine. Although the fine grained French oak is apparent, the balance of the Bin 128 is the key to its appeal. A seductive wine that will last for many years.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 28 – 2008. (18 – 18.5). Whilst the family resemblance is immediately obvious, the Bin 28 is more opulent than the Bin 128. The fruit is deliciously ripe, yet there is elegance to this wine. There are fresh plum aromas along with spice, Christmas cake and trademark Penfolds oak handling. This wine is dense and textured, though the finish is a touch grippy right now. An excellent Bin 28 and one that is sure to last for 20 years if cellared properly.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Bin 407 – 2008 (18 – 18.5). Traditionally a favourite of mine in the Penfolds line up, the Bin 407 has been gradually repositioned in price and now sits just below the Bin 389. The key to this wine is that the fruit is ripe rather than jammy. There is a touch of peppermint, blackcurrant and cigar box to the nose with a savouriness running across the top. The palate is superb, though very tight. The line and length are spot on. A balanced wine that needs 5 years to open up.

Penfolds – Shiraz – Bin 150 – 2008 (17.7 – 18.5). Quite a different style to the other Bin wines, 2008 is the first vintage of this wine. Sourced specifically from the Marananga sub-region of the Barossa, the fruit is more lifted and perfumed than the Bin 28. Licorice, earthy notes and even hints of Sunday roast appear on the nose. The palate is very silky with prodigious tannins that are very fine. Hints of mocha and tar to close. An excellent wine, though this was harder to taste as the fruit and structural components are still integrating. One for the long term.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Bin 389 – 2008 (18.3 – 18.7). This is wine! If anything, even more complex than the rest of the line up. This is full of subtleties and evolves in the glass. Cedar, plum, cherry, blackcurrant, chocolate, leather and coffee are all expressed. The palate is seamless, yet develops a chewy texture to close. The structure is outstanding and the wine is a meal in itself.

Conclusion

A superb line up of wines. The value wines are the Bin 128 and the Bin 28. Every cellar should have some. The pick for me though was the Bin 389. A formidable wine that Peter Gago and the team must be very proud of.