Category Archives: Cabernet – Wine Reviews

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 18 September 2012

A strong line up of wines, though there was some diversity to the styles, reflecting the different locations in which the grapes were grown.

Reviewed

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (18). Quite firm and tannic, the fruit is ripe, if a touch lean right now. Excellent length on the palate. This just needs a few years to open up and settle down. A serious wine, the points are for potential.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2008 (18). Taught, fine, but unrewarding at present. There are hints of berry fruit and excellent length. Like all the wines wearing the “Art Series” label, this is a wine that needs many years to show its best, but will reward in spades.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2010 (17.7). Cooler climate fruit with strong mint over red fruits. The acid is a little forward on the palate initially, but this has high quality fruit and textured, yet fine oak. Dense and long, with dusty tannins. If you like Bordeaux, this age-worthy wine is worth a try.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Sweet ripe fruit up front, with tar, cedar and attractive spice notes. Blackberry, tar, cedar and hints of cassis, with good length and texture to close. Whilst there is forward fruit, the oak and fruit tannins need to soften before this will reach peak drinking. Cellar for at least 5 years.

Fairbrossen – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5). Mint and eucalypt to open in the nose. Darker fruits than on the Killerby. On the palate there is blueberries, spice and a silky mouth-feel that is attractive. Very long, the tannins are fine and the oak sits well with the fruit. The fruit quality is good, but the winemaking is excellent.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude Vineyards – 2007 (17.5). Powerful fruit that belies the “second wine” status of this wine. The palate is dense with chewy tannins. The cooler area fruit defines this wine. A serious wine that took 3-4 days to open up and show its best! Worth trying if you like cool climate cabernet fruit.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed: 5 September 2012

 

A strong line up of wines here. There are many that are worthy of mention, but the two that I will single out are the Howard Park Miamup and the Parker Terra Rossa. Both are excellent and represent very strong value for money.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block Reserve – 2009 (18+). I struggled with the power of this initially. It is a big wine with precise, ripe fruit that has been expertly handled. The density of the fruit is superb and the finish extraordinarily refined. Not classic cool climate cabernet, but a superb wine for the cellar.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). This is a smart wine. Blackcurrant fruit is the primary character on the nose, but there is a touch of quality oak in the background. The texture is silky and supple. The tannins are very fine, conferring a degree of drinkability, but I get the impression that this will improve for some time and live even longer. Super effort.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Miamup – 2010 (18). Very intense nose that is ripe, yet restrained. There is obvious power to the fruit. The palate is restrained and tight, but the quality of the fruit is undeniable. The finish is long and very fine, but needs a few years to show its best. The best wine we have seen in this range, it should be around $25.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (18). A dense wine that is just a baby. There is chocolate fruit with hints of tar. The finish is very textured and layered. The oak and fruit blend well. This will evolve for a long time, but the ripe fruit reflects the excellent growing season. Well made, this is an excellent wine.

Parker – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2008 (17.8+). Menthol and eucalypt to open that is typical of Coonawarra. The nose is initially quite restrained and tight. The palate has good length, and the fruit builds on the finish. There are dusty tannins to close that frame the fruit. With air, this really hit its straps showing dense ripe fruit of very high quality. The depth and richness continued to build for some time and made the perfect accompaniment to a piece of steak. Will be even better in a few years.

Stormflower – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2010 (17.8). A very smart wine. The fruit is dense and textured and the length excellent. There is chocolate and spice on the palate. A rich and dense wine that is textured, ripe and balanced.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – S.R.S. – 2010 (17.7++). Lovely ripe fruit that has mint and red currant on the nose. This has lovely fruit. The balance is excellent and the mouth-feel superb. The silky finish is very long and the fruit continues to evolve. The oak and tannins on the finish balance the fruit well. Very smart early drinking, but this will evolve and improve for at least 5 years. From Wilyabrub, this has high quality fruit and is very well made.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Davey Estate – 2010 (17.5). Slightly dusty, earth fruit here with hints of chocolate that good McLaren Vale reds can get. The palate has rich, velvety fruit with silk tannins. There is a touch of grip on the finish from the oak and tannins, but this complements the juicy fruit nicely. Not overblown, just ripe and concentrated.

Cabernet – New Release

Western Australia

Reviewed 6 July 2012

The standout wine from this tasting was the Pedestal cabernet sauvignon. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine that also represents great value with a RRP of $25. The Yard wines, also by Mr Cherubino, are also excellent, though they are not as approachable as the Pedestal right now.

Finally, the Stella Bella is a fantastic example of cool climate cabernet. The style will not appeal to everyone, but I love it.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Pusey Rd Vineyard – 2010 (18). Lovely fruit on the nose and palate, though the fruit is somewhat subdued at present. The palate is very precise, with excellent line and length. There is a silky mouth-feel, with fine fruit (and oak) tannins that build in the mouth. Cedary oak rounds out the finish to what is an impressive wine. Will age well in the medium term. From Margaret River.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2010 (18). Remarkably different fruit expression compared to the Pusey Rd Vineyard. The wine is lean and angular as the very fine fruit is very elegant, but not expressive now. This wine is in no way green, it is just not rewarding right now. . A finer style that will improve with years in the bottle. A complex wine that will reward extended cellaring. From Frankland River.

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). I like this for its medium-bodied fruit and elegance. The nose is complex and evolving, with savoury accents to add interest. The palate is supple, long, elegant and balanced. This is quite restrained at present but is layered with complexity. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine and by far the best buy of the tasting at around $25.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2009 (18). I like this. There is coffee and bitter chocolate over dark brooding fruit. There is obviously cooler climate fruit here as there are tomato leaf and eucalypt hints on the nose. Importantly, the fruit is perfectly ripe, albeit in a much cooler style. Cinnamon and spice from the high quality oak adds complexity to the finish. Age worthy.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2010 (17.8). A very complex nose! Licorice, cinnamon, spice and dark fruits all meld together to make a real impact. The palate is firm and a touch angular, but this promises a lot. The dark fruits build in the mouth, making this quite approachable now. I would like, however to give this 5 to 10 years to allow the multiple facets to come together into a great drink.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (17.5+). Enchanting nose that is full of red fruits, with complex forest floor characters over the top. The fruit on the palate starts off shy, but becomes quite juicy and mouth-watering with air. Fine tannins come through on the finish, though this suppresses the fruit now. Another good wine from this producer.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Next of Kin – 2010 (17.3). Vibrant, lifted fruit on the nose. The palate has forward fruit, with souring acidity that adds freshness and life. This is a wine that really calls for food to bring out its best. Supple oak adds to the close. Fruit forward and good drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17). I like this wine for its purity of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely textured and just a touch linear, but a few years should see it flesh out and develop more complexity. Points for potential and drinkability.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2010 (17). This possesses a solid core of ripe fruit that tends towards plum with spice hints. The palate is supple and fine with tannins that add grip and help carry the finish. Good length, the plump fruit suggests a riper year for the region.

Cracking Cabernets

Last Sunday Tasting Group

Reviewed: 27th May 2012

As many of you know, this is my favourite wine-related activity each month. Good wine, good food and great friends!

This month was my turn to host the event and with winter on its way, I thought it time to move to more structured red wines i.e. Cracking Cabernets! As is often the case with tasting older wines, cork related problems ruined several of the wines. Once again, I say a prayer of thanks for the humble screw cap.

The highlight of the tasting was the 2003 Gladstone by Houghton. A spectacularly good wine that will put many Bordeauxs costing hundreds of dollars a bottle to shame. Also worthy of mention are the wines from Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Katnook and Leasingham.

Reviewed

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2003 (18.6). Undoubtedly the star of the tasting. This wine was so good that my tasting notes were reduced to a series of descriptors! Silky, ripe, supple and fine, this is high quality, yet still youthful. Very long and fine, this is all about elegance. Excellent fruit quality that has been superbly handled. Seamless and silky, with succulent fruit to close.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Delicious nose, delicious palate! Textured, long and very persistent, with mint and eucalypt fruit notes with hints of vanillin oak. This is youthful, fresh and destined for a very long life.

Katnook – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1998 (18.4). Gorgeous nose that speaks of quality Coonawara fruit. Lovely menthol over chocolate fruit, with silky tannins that hold the palate together perfectly. Fully mature but will drink for years.

Leasingham – Cabernet Sauvignon – Classic Clare – 1996 (18.3). Mint and eucalypt fruit that is perfectly ripe. This is a very intense wine with inky, almost chocolate fruit. Very intense wine with mouth-watering acidity. Youthful and taut, this will live for years, so have it with food if you must drink it now.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 1995 (18.2). Menthol and chocolate on what is a very complex wine with excellent length of flavours. Textured and delicious, the tannins are a mere memory on the round and developed palate.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2001 (18.2). Cool fruit characters. Firm, but the developed notes are very attractive. Polished tannins are fine and silky. Quite linear in the mouth and a touch angular but really opens up in the glass. Decant to serve.

Clos du Marquis – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Serious fruit on the nose and palate. The intensity is a standout. Very long and textured, with no rough edges. More developed than the Moss Wood.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 (18). A very convincing wine. Real depth to the fruit and excellent length. This is fully developed, round and generous with textured chocolate fruit. Delicious.

Piaggia de’Colli – Cabernet Franc – Toscana – 2006 (18). Complex wine reminiscent of fine Bordeaux. The palate is bigger and richer than I expected. Chocolate oak, powerful fruit and firm tannins make for a meal in itself. Chewy finish to a superb wine.

Grosset – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.5). A Lovely wine that is just entering its drinking window. Rightly considered one of Australia’s best examples of the blend, though noticeable different to the Western Australian style.

Orlando – Cabernet Sauvignon – St Hugo – 1996 (17). I was not as enthusiastic as some, but a very good wine.

Matanzas Creek – Cabernet Sauvignon – Sonoma County – 2001 (16). Coffee, toffee and chocolate. A very interesting wine that provides drinking pleasure, but has a quite medicinal nose.

Chateau Gloria – Bordeaux – 1995 (NR). Another stuffed cork.

Chateau D’angudet – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margeaux – 1982 (N.R.).

Virgin Hills – Red Blend – 1999 (N.R.). Two bottles and two bad corks.

Wendoorie – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1998 (NR). Shame about the cork!

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 25th May 2012.

A real mix here, though some very worthwhile wines. The picks for me came from Juniper Estate and Higher Plane, though the Ringbolt may turn out to be the best value down the track.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.1). Serious fruit on the nose that is intense, focused and balanced. Cedary oak makes the palate muted at present, but this should evolve. Very structured and tight, with quality fruit, wine-making and oak but be very patient.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Interesting nose showing hints of plum and spice. The palate has excellent acidity and fine tannins making the finish quite lively. Not much primary fruit at this point in its development, so an excellent food wine in a European style. Will get better in time.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Isolation Ridge – 2010 (17.7+). Attractive, elegant and refined, with lovely red fruits and a hint of cherry. The fruit has been expertly handled in the winery so that the delicate fruit has not been swamped by winemaking inputs. Easy to drink now, but will be even better in 5 -10 years.

Ringbolt – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Plenty of minty fruit here. On the palate there is slightly chewy fruit though the oak and fruit tannins totally shut down the palate. I need to see this again as it is no doubt high quality, it just does not show well today.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17+). Cassis, intense fruit and menthol on the nose. Textured, ripe and complex, with a very long palate. Excellent oak use adds depth to the palate. A touch of eucalypt to close, but no green flavours. Lovely mouth-feel and texture to a quality wine.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine, with vanilla bean over redcurrent. The flavour profile matches the nose and the texture is first-rate.

Chalk Board – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 2010 (16.8). Well rounded wine with no rough edges. Blackcurrant fruit with hints of cedar and spice. The palate is mouth-filling and the succulent fruit builds intensity over time. Excellent tannin structure makes for a lovely wine. (Made by Penley Estate).

Drakesbrook – Malbec – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.8+). Pristine and bright fruit, with a degree of focus. The palate has real depth to the fruit and the winemaking (oak) is sympathetic. Popular with the entire panel, this took a couple of days to really open up and will be better in a few years.

De Bortoli– Merlot – La Bossa – 2010 (16.2). Fleshy fruit on the nose, with plum aromas. Juicy and plump palate with reasonable length and no oak to speak of. Easy drinking and good value.

Haut Bardin – Bordeaux – 2010 (16). Nothing wrong here, it is just that I do not get anything specific.

Cabernet and Merlot

14th April 2012

Some very smart wines here, thought there was a variety of styles on display.

Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.3). Very dense and powerful yet the fruit is very shy and reserved. The palate follows the theme with great length and very fine texture, but again, the fruit is subdued. Has everything in place for the long haul, but requires patience. Mint and blackcurrant are the dominant fruit characters with a touch of plum on the close. Will appeal to many!

Penley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18+). The nose is redolent of mint and blackberry fruit, though this is taught and more muscular than the HandPicked. Again, very long, though the tannins are more assertive in the mid-palate. The finish is balanced with a touch of coconut and vanilla showing from the oak. Everything is in place here, though ten years is required to see this wine really open up and show its full potential. This will last for a long time. Cork closure.

HandPicked – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Selections – By Peter Douglas – 2009 (17.8). Menthol and peppermint typical of Coonawara are a highlight on the nose. This is an attractive wine of some quality. The palate has eucalypt and peppermint over rich fruit that is very dense. There is a silky mouth-feel with prominent, (very fine) fruit and oak tannins. Lovely textural components and good line and length define a finish. This will evolve for many years and represents outstanding value at around $20. The only caveat is the cork closure.

Stormflower – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2009 (17.8). A real surprise here. Mint and eucalypt over red and blackcurrant fruit, with cedar and spice adding interest. An attractive wine that has quite powerful fruit. The finish is totally shut down by very fine tannins and oak, but the high quality fruit is hidden away. Lovely Margaret River cabernet. Points for potential.

Bird in Hand – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5). A more classically proportioned wine showing eucalypt, mint and cedary oak on both the nose and the palate. Long and savoury, the oak and tannins are a touch dominant at present but really soften with air. There is quality fruit and winemaking on display and the wine will evolve.

Grant Burge – Merlot – Hillcot – 2010 (17.4). A harmonious nose with aromas of coffee and spice over ripe red fruits. The palate shows fresh and vibrant fruit with a touch of vanillin oak to add complexity. The finish is textured and balanced, with a savoury twist to close.

Smith and Hooper – Merlot – Reserve – 2008 (17.4+). A real contrast to the easy-drinking style championed by the Oxford Landing. There is intense fruit on the nose that is complex, rich, ripe, dense and evolving. This has quality stamped all over it. Herbs, Satsuma plum and cherry combine with plenty of high quality cedary oak on the palate. There are coffee aromas to close. This needs time to fully integrate. The wine will not be to everyone’s taste, but it is an impressive wine all the same.

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Cameron Vale – 2010 (17). A good wine, but without great excitement. Ripe, well made and with decent length, there is a silky mouth-feel and good texture. Very easy drinking, the fruit leans more to plum rather than cassis.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.9+). Lovely nose that has Margaret River written all over it. Berry and cedary oak combine with dusty (though very fine) tannins to confer impressive length and mouth-feel. Needs a few years to open up, but an enjoyable wine just lacking the concentration of the great wines. Now to 10 years.

Juniper Crossing – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (16.8). Dense, plummy and earthy, with a core of ripe fruit. Savoury, almost cigar box like notes add complexity to the package. The palate is dense, slightly viscous and mouth-coating. Made in an approachable style, typical of this blend (at this price at least). This is an excellent red for a cold winter’s night and an open fire.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Knot – 2011 (16.6). More immediate appeal here. Not particularly dense, this is a lovely early-drinking red. Ripe fruit that has hints of plum. A very well made, medium-bodied wine, but in a less serious style.

Smith and Hooper – Merlot – 2009 (16.5). There is a lovely balance of fruit and spice on the nose. Mid-weight and elegant, this is a pretty wine for short term consumption. This would probably look even better with a light meal.

Oxford Landing Estate – Merlot – 2011 (15.5). Fresh strawberry, Ribena and spice on the nose. A simple, uncomplicated and fresh palate that has enough life to make it good drinking. (Did I mention the smart packaging)?

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed – 10 March 2012

There was some discussion amongst the panel as to the quality of the 2009 vintage in Margaret River. It is my view that these wines are deceptively easy to drink as the fruit is ripe and approachable. Look beyond this though and there is a fine backbone to the wines that should ensure that they age well. Perhaps, not as long lived as the 2008s, these may provide better drinking in the short to medium term.

I have commented before on how youthful many wines are these days. It was refreshing to see the Clarault from 2007 in this tasting. The extra drinkability that the bottle age confers was enough to get it over the line for a gold medal.

Reviewed

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Cellar Release – 2007 (18.5). Ticks all the boxes. Classic nose of red fruits, mint and gentle eucalypt with subtle cedary overtones. Superb palate that is refined, precise and very long. This is not a big wine, but there is latent power to the fruit. Excellent length and fine structural components. Very well made, using high quality fruit. The fact that this is such good drinking now tipped it in to the gold medal bracket.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Tight and refined nose. Cedary oak combines well with complex berries and spice. Long and dense, this has plenty of potential. I particularly liked the silky mouth-feel and excellent length. Very reserved, elegant and inviting, there is an intense core of berry fruit that carries right through the palate. An elegant wine of distinction.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Block 2 – 2010 (17.5 -18). Powerful nose up front with a palate that is bursting with flavour. Quite robust, this is a candidate to go along with your favourite Spaghetti Bolognese if you must drink it now. Dense, long and textured, the oak handling really suits the fruit. This is a powerful wine with great structure and it should age for many years.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.7). Another super wine here. Lovely fresh fruit on the nose and palate, with enough textural notes to make the finish very attractive. Ultimately, not as dense as the best, but a cracking effort.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (17.5+). Closed, but shows ripe fruit (fresh berries). A solid wine that delivers immediate pleasure with a lovely mouth-feel, good length and decent fruit weight. Not overly massaged in the winery, this is a solid effort. With air, the fruit and structure start to show through. One to watch.

Streicker – Cabernet Sauvignon – Ironstone Block – Old Vine – 2009 (17.5+). Beautiful, almost ethereal nose. This is so seductive, with perfume, red berries and plum over cedary oak. The palate appears more about primary fruit initially, though this is deceptive as the finish is very long and builds in power. This evolves in the glass and the mouth suggesting it may get higher points as it develops over time.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). This wine divided the panel, with two judges giving high silver medals. Mint, eucalypt and even a touch of insecticide all proclaim the Margaret River origins here. Dense, dark fruit that has hints of cedar and spice over lovely plum and berry fruit. There is even at touch of aniseed. In the mouth, the length and structure are stand-outs. Very fine and refined, this has excellent fruit that has been handled very well. Uncompromising, this needs time to fully express itself.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2010 (17.4). Lovely fresh fruit with hints of mint and eucalypt. Not overly serious, but attractive and elegant. Tar, spice, tannins and acid complement the quality fruit. The structure really is quite good and the finish fine and silky. This will improve for a few years making for excellent mid term drinking.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.1). Bright and forward nose with blackcurrant. The palate is flooded by sweet fruit that is reasonably complex and quite dense. Finishes well, making this an excellent mid week wine for early consumption. Good length.

Mad Fish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Premium Red – 2009 (17). A well made, if straight forward, wine. The silky finish is quite long and this may improve in the short term. Good drinking and excellent value.

Leaping Lizard – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (16.9). Quite a silky wine, with blueberry, cedar and gentle spice. Very well made, the tannins and structure are highly polished and very refined. Good length and a finish that evolves and builds. The only question was around the balance.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). A touch rustic on the nose. A sturdy wine with solid fruit. Quite juicy and fleshy, this would make an excellent pizza wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon

New Release Wine Reviews

Reviewed: 27 December 2011

The highlight for me of this tasting was the O”Leary Walker cabernet. An excellent wine that should be widely available for around $20.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2007 (18.2). Cooler region fruit on a restrained and taut nose. On the palate, this really starts to sing. There are layers of fruit combined with excellent winemaker’s inputs. This is very complex and very long, with the density of fruit a standout. The palate is refined and relatively understated now, with cedary textural notes dominating the finish. Give it ten years to see it blossom. The excellent fruit quality and winemaking provide superb length.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18). Nice wine this. Silky, ripe and perfumed fruit on the nose combine with red fruits/berries and a seamless, silky, textured and evolving finish. This has high class fruit and oak combined with excellent winemaking. This is a classy wine that, whilst very easy to drink, is very complex and age-worthy.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2009 (18). Closed. This has refined fruit, combined with excellent winemaking. Great length and a superb finish. The wine really persists in the mouth. Very refined, this needs 10 – 20 years to hit its peak.

O’Leary Walker – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18). Excellent Clare Valley fruit on display here. A combination of cooler, minty fruit characters combined with lovely ripe fruit and tannins. This is a very classy wine. Powerful fruit dominates a multifaceted and evolving palate. There are plenty of fine tannins, but these frame the fruit beautifully. A mouth-filling, succulent wine that is a relative bargain.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Suckfizzle – 2008 (18). Much cooler region fruit here, with eucalypt, tomato leaf and herbal aromas over silky fruit. The palate has fine/refined fruit of real quality. The feature for me was the refined tannins. There is no hint of greenness and they are very silky, conferring a near seamless finish. This is a very elegant wine that is typical of the style. If you like bordeaux…

Ferngrove – Malbec – 2009 (17.8). Savoury fruit with overtones of spice and earth. Follows on the palate with dense chocolate and tar flavours that coat the mouth. There are also classic insecticide notes on the finish too (trust me, this is an appealing minty character). This is quite a serious wine, with solid fruit and excellent winemaking. A silky finish courtesy of fine tannins makes this easy to enjoy now, but give it 5+ years to see it at its best.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5+). This is a wine in two parts. A straightforward, though appealing wine up front, with juicy fruit and refreshing acidity, making this a good early drink. With time and air though, the quality shone through. Quality fruit and winemaking with the structure in place to age gracefully for many years. A refined wine of some class.

Kingston Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Echelon – 2005 (17.4). A touch of development on show, making this more approachable. Dense, ripe fruit that is very textured and layered. Whilst the wine has started to soften, this is a big wine that is multifaceted. Mint and blackcurrant flood the palate, combined with ample fine tannins. Whilst not classical cabernet, this will make a great winter red over the next five years. Should be good value.

Faber Vineyard – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Real depth to the fruit, showing mulberry and blackcurrant. Finishes quite savory and the length is good. A well made wine of some charm and reasonable complexity. Drink now to five years.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Symbols – 2009 (17). Another lovely nose, with mint and eucalypt up front. Attractive fruit on the palate with fresh acidity dominating the finish at present. May improve in the short term and represents excellent value.

Laurance – Merlot – 2007 (16.7). A well made wine with juicy, plum like fruit. Not overblown, this straddles the boundary between fleshy and structured, making for a good drink now.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (NS). Very appealing nose with vibrant fruit on display. Cedary oak and firm tannins dominate the palate now, but these are not overly aggressive. I would like to try this again in a year to see how it is developing so I have not pointed it yet.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2010 (17). Plum, mulberry and mocha fruit characters combine with fine tannins and well judged oak to make this an enjoyable and appealing wine. Not as complex as the best wines here, this is, none the less, an excellent drink.

Cabernet (and Rose)

Cabernet (and Rose)

New Release

Reviewed: 20 November 2011

I have been lucky enough to drink some superb wines of late which has had me questioning the scores I give. To that end, I have adjusted my points for the lower end of the range.

So what does the change mean?

For a wine to score 15.5 and thus gain a bronze medal, the wine must be better than drinkable. It must have a degree of typicality and be well made using good quality fruit. At the top end, a gold medal (18.5) has not changed, whilst wines in between will be more spaced out.

As always, if you are reading about it in these pages, then I thought the wines were either good value or of good quality. In effect, I would be happy to have a glass of these wines.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Wilyabrup – 2009 (17.8). In a different league to everything else in the tasting. Tight and refined, with excellent fruit quality coming through. Really fine, the oak handling is spot on. This is very well made, though it needs time to open up. Has cedar, spice and hints of blackcurrant to the palate. Has great appeal, though another year or two in bottle would serve it well.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.3). Lovely wine in a cooler climate package. Supple, elegant, refined and classy. Again, dark fruits, but this is a very subtle wine that needs time. Opens to show rich and quite dense fruit.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Isolation Ridge – 2009 (17). The fruit starts off very closed, but opens with lots of air. Lovely ripe redcurrant and hints of fresh plum. I like the finish on this wine, with cedary oak and very fine tannins. The length is impressive and the fruit really builds.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Debut – 2009 (16.8). Quite deep smelling and a touch masculine. Smart wine here, with hints of chocolate over dark fruits. Excellent structure for a relatively cheap wine and the tannins have been nicely managed. A good drink.

Angove – Rose – Nine Vines – 2011 (16.4). Outrageous colour. Deeper pink and more wine like than a lot of roses. Nice combination of fruit and acid, with nice structure. This is a dry style that would be great served chilled with a plate of antipasto.

West Cape Howe – Rose – 2011 (16). Actually has some structure, body and character. Not overly sweet, with a mouth-watering finish. Good wine that will take food.

Tyrell’s – Rose – Old Winery – 2011 (15.8). Sweet fresh fruit on the nose and palate. Not a bad drink as there is enough fruit to flesh out the palate.

Houghton 175th Anniversary

Reviewed – 7 October 2011

Houghton

To celebrate their 175th birthday, the team at Houghton, led by Ross Pamment put on a tasting to showcase the quality of the wines. This involved a mini vertical tastings of the White Classic, followed by verticals of the Wisdom chardonnay, Gladstone cabernet and finally, every vintage of Jack Mann ever produced, including barrel samples of the 2010 and 2011.

The White Classic is probably the most amazing wine made in Western Australia. Its ability to age belies its humble origins. Here is a wine that often sells for less than $8.00 that benefits from 5 to 8 years in the cellar. Even on release, this is a wine that is very easy to like. For the record, it is a blend of chenin blanc/chardonnay/verdelho/semillon/muscadelle/riesling, the muscadelle coming from an old block at Moondah Brook.

The Wisdom (formerly Regional Collection) chardonnay comes from the Sterling Road vineyard in Pemberton.

The Gladstones comes from the Batley vineyard which is a mature, dry grown vineyard in Wilyabrup, planted in 1988. The exception is the 2002, the fruit for which came from the Woodlands vineyard.

The Jack Mann, like the man it is named after, is an icon. This wine is the flag bearer for all of the Frankland region. The fruit is sourced from the Justin vineyard, and the first vintage was 1994. Apparently, the vineyard was planted from cuttings from Houghton’s vineyards in the Swan Valley. The blend varies from year to year, though cabernet sauvignon is always the main grape, with small amounts of malbec +/- shiraz to fill out the wine.

We had the privilege of tasting every Jack Mann produced to date including barrel samples of the 2010 and 2011. There is no doubt in my mind, that Jack Mann is in the top five red wines produced in Western Australia.

A special thanks must go to Houghton for generously hosting this tasting.

Reviewed

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2004 (18.2). Floral notes to start then lanolin, developed caramel and spice. Has some similarity to chablis. Developed on the palate. This is quite rich and spicy. Long and textured, there is musk, pear and incense to close. More chardonnay here than is usual.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2005 (17.8). Tighter and more linear on the nose, it is the palate where this shines. Generous, round and complex. This will be the last of the museum releases.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2006 (17.7). Really fresh, with lovely perfume. This has crunchy pear on the palate, but is very youthful and tight.

Houghton – Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay/Verdelho/Semillon/Muscadelle/Riesling – White Classic – 2011 (17.2). This is much more in the style of an SSB. Floral, citrus, zesty, delicious. Good length and balance. Smart wine. Some of the passionfruit/tropical characters will settle down in the bottle. Unbelievably good wine for the price.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Regional Collection – 2002 (17). Lovely developed nose, with rich, complex aromas. Plenty of lees and oak, but the butterscotch fruit still shows through. Nearing the end of its life, this is a nice drink. Oak is a defining feature. The chardonnay for Wisdom comes from the Sterling Road Vineyard.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Regional Collection – 2005 (17.7). Much more restraint and poise here. This is balanced and tight, with complex worked characters developing in the mouth. Really builds intensity with time. Lovely citrus notes to close. Deliciously delicate.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Wisdom – 2007 (18). The style keeps evolving and improving. This remains restrained, but the ripe fruit is more apparent. Subtle pineapple flavours combine with lanolin, struck match and flint. It is the mineral notes that leave a lasting impression on the finish. Drinking a treat!

Houghton – Chardonnay – Wisdom – 2009 (18.3). More fragrant and spicy on the nose. Seamless palate, with really fine fruit. This is superb. Complex and tight. Taut and linear at the moment, this has a long future. This saw nine months lees contact and the percentage of new oak has been wound back.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2002 (18). Wow. Spectacular nose. Developed leather and earth over mint and eucalypt. Yes, there are some red fruit flavours, but this has so much more. The palate has black fruits, though the chalky tannins still hold back the fruit. The fruit for this wine came from the Woodlands vineyard.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2003 (18). Reserved and tight. This has cedary oak and plenty of very fine tannins. Lovely red fruits here, but not as complex as the 2002. These wines are remarkably restrained and tight. They will live a long time.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2004 (18.3). A great effort for the year. Gorgeous nose that suggests a cooler vintage. Think menthol, eucalypt and spice. The palate is very spicy, with more of the menthol characters. There are hints of tobacco, tea leaf and silky tannins. Develops great texture. A joy to drink.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2005 (18.4). Reserved. A very tight and restrained wine that is seamless. Everything is in place, but it is oh so youthful. This has great similarity to top Bordeaux and less to do with “sunshine” wines. Hints of menthol, blackcurrant and cedar. The oak is very fine grained and adds a silky texture. The mouth-feel is spot on. Elegant!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2007 (18.3). Much more fragrant fruit, reflecting the warmer year perhaps. Still shows restraint on the palate, but with much more fruit on show. The finish is still silky and tight, so I would like to see it again in a few years, but will not live as long as the 2008.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2008 (18.5). My favourite wine of the bracket. Gorgeous nose and palate. There is a degree of brightness here that is really appealing – there is almost a juiciness to the fruit. The length and mouth-feel are spot on as are the textural components. Chewy finish, but nothing is disjointed. The oak merely caresses the fruit. (Has a screw cap).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1994 (18.5). Leather, spice, menthol and licorice all in evidence on both the nose and palate. The wine is ripe, powerful, long and intense. Amazing length, in fact, an amazing wine that is at its peak.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1995 (18.4). More of the leathery notes and some forest floor and spice. Supple and succulent, this finishes with lovely leather, nutmeg and almost a touch of mocha. Super fine and elegant.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1996 (18.5). More restrained, with some mint and earthy notes. The palate is flooded with ripe fruit that is elegant and also shows supple cedary spice. Again, the length is a standout, and the slightly chalky tannins and (still) fresh acidity proved a counterpoint to the fruit. Bravo (15% shiraz).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1998 (NR). A lovely wine, but perhaps not the best bottle.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 1999 (17.5). What a contrast. This is remarkably floral and fragrant. Sweet, almost candied fruit floods the palate. The acidity and tannins shut down the finish, so ultimately, the balance is probably not where I would like it to be (given the company). 30% malbec and a different style.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2000 (18.2). Super wine. This is more restrained than any of the previous wines to this point. Silky and supple, the velvety tannins and oak still dampen fruit expression. Elegant and beautifully weighted, this is on its way to being a star.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2001 (18.4). Dumb, with menthol to the fore. Menthol and spice dominate the initial palate, though the extra-ordinarily fine tannins completely shut down the finish. Again, a great wine, but it needs another decade to show its best.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2002 (18.5). More perfumed fruit. In fact, this is quite pretty. Touches of leather and spice on the palate are set against extra-ordinarily fine tannins. A special wine that is only part way through its life.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2004 (18). More menthol and earthy notes here. Leathery fruit, with a touch of dried herbs and prune. Long and textured, the mouth-feel is excellent, though the finish is drying. 2% malbec. Really savoury finish that opens up with time in the glass. Is this your style?

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2007 (18.2). Closed and tight. Classic cabernet fruit on the palate. This is just a baby, but it has great potential and some immediate appeal. Very silky tannins on the finish make this a great drink now, but that would be a shame. (Closed with a cork).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2007 (18.6). Remarkable contrast, with vibrant, youthful, red berries on the nose. Spectacularly good palate that has fresh red fruits and silky tannins. The oak is a mere hint in the background. Lovely texture and length. Super! (Closed with a screw cap).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2008 (18.7). More restrained and taut. Spectacular palate. This has coffee and tar, but there is a core of red fruits and the finish just goes on and on. I gave this 18.7 recently, and will not disagree this time.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2010 (18.5). Wow. One of the best Jack Mann to date? Amazing fruit on the nose. The palate is so complete, but very youthful. Again, the oak balance is superb. It is the length that is the stand-out. This was a barrel sample that did polarise, though I loved it!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Jack Mann – 2011 (18.5+). Hard to assess so young. Again, there is amazing fruit quality, though the textural components are still developing. Possesses a remarkable drinkability. Another great wine, but it will take a couple of years to know how great. Bench blend, so the final wine may be slightly different.