Category Archives: Cabernet – Wine Reviews

Magnum Lunch

Fraser’s Restaurant

24th May 2013

Eighteen wine enthusiasts, twenty one magnums of outstanding wine and one of Perth’s best chefs recently combined for a truly memorable experience. No occasion was needed to bring a remarkable collection of both wines and people together for the second magnum lunch at Fraser’s Restaurant in Kings Park.

The lunch was conceived by John Jens, but it was Bob Winterbottom who made the lunch a reality. Bob set the guidelines for what wines could be brought and coordinated selections to ensure that there was a spread of wines from various styles. Once the list was finalised, Bob passed this on to Chris Taylor at Fraser’s. Chris developed a spectacular meal that complemented the wines superbly.

There were so many vinous highlights that it seems unfair to give the wines points. Needless to say that many of the wines would have been awarded gold medals. I will go out on a limb and say that the line-up was one of the best collections of wine that I have tasted in years.

One highlight for me was the bracket of Corton Charlemagne’s from Bonneau du Martray. It was fascinating to see how the style has evolved over the last few years. The 2008 was drinking spectacularly, but the 2010 was, quite possibly, the greatest wine of the tasting.

Another highlight was the three Second Growths from Bordeaux. Whilst the quality of the 2000 vintage was superbly highlighted by the Leoville Barton and the Cos d’Estronnel, the 2001 Leoville Las Cases was also a superstar.

The food that was prepared to accompany the wines was uniformly superb. For me, the highlight was the roast whole pig! A special mention must go to William and Bronwyn from Fraser’s who provided us with superb service throughout the event.

Ultimately though, it was the company of the other 17 wine tragics who attended that made the day so memorable.

How soon can we do it again???

Champagne

We started the lunch on the restaurant forecourt where Chris shucked Ceduna oysters as we sipped on the four Champagnes. It was a perfect start, the picturesque backdrop only adding to the sense of occasion.

Pol Roger – Champagne – 1996. This wine stood out for its great finesse and balance. Yes, it was fully mature, but there was still life and vitality. A great way to start. (From Magnum).

Krug – Champagne – NV. Remarkably, this had spent 11 years in bottle since it was purchased. Fully mature, complex, rich and finely balanced, this was a great drink and perfectly complemented by the ocean tang of the oysters. (From Magnum).

Dom Perignon – Champagne – 1990. Unfortunately, the cork on this spoiled the party. (From Magnum).

Dom Perignon – Champagne – Oenotheque – 1996. Unbelievably fresh and tight, the lemony citrus characters leading the charge on both the nose and the palate. This needs years to reach its drinking peak but is a superb wine!

Barsac

The pairing of the Climens and the parfait was an inspired combination. The silky texture of the parfait was the perfect foil to the wines richness.

Chateau Climens – Barsac – 1995. Balanced, precise, rich (though not in any way cloying) and very long. Apricot, almond and marzipan combine with wonderful spice notes on both the nose and the palate. Whilst this is superb now, it will last for many more years.

White Burgundy and Chablis

Given the refinement of the wines in this bracket, I was concerned that the mushroom risotto that accompanied it would overwhelm the fruit. In reality, the risotto was remarkably delicate and refined, adding a lovely backdrop to the whites.

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004. A very complex wine, the minerals and honey on the nose combined well with the toasty, developed characters on the palate. Powerful, intense and very long, this has developed very nicely. (From Magnum).

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2008. Sublime drinking here. Grapefruit and lemony acid lead onto complex mineral characters, spice and a hint of curry leaf. Outstanding drive and length to a wine that is great now, but will also develop well for a few years. (From Magnum).

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2010.  Precise, focused and tight, this is a restrained and silky wine that flows seamlessly to a very long finish. A stunning wine and one of my favourites for the day. (From Magnum).

Domaine Francois Raveneau – Chapelot – Chablis – 1er Cru – 2009. Very tight, lean and racy, with lemon, nectarine and citrus rind notes. Outstanding length to a wine that needs 5 years to really start to hit its straps. (From Magnum).

Domaine Baron Thenard – Le Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2007. Opens with really tangy citrus notes. A very powerful wine that has subtle minerals and a very fine texture. Creamy and very long, this is a superb wine of power and restraint. Will age for years, but this is sublime!

Blain Gagnard – Batard Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2006. This is a very powerful wine, though the nose is remarkably tight at present. A big wine that still needs a few years for the powerful fruit to fully integrate with the oak and show its best. (From Magnum).

Red Burgundy

The Burgundies were accompanied by a complex and artistically prepared dish of braised lamb. A delicious dish, with the natural acidity of the wines complementing the richness of the food.

Pousse d’Or  – Volnay – 1er Cru – Caillerets – 1990. This bottle had, perhaps, seen better days as it was very earthy and old fashioned. (From Magnum).

Armand Rousseau – Ruchottes-Chambertin – Grand Cru – Clos des Ruchottes – 2007. Silky, sweet fruit with pepper and lovely spice highlights. The texture, balance and power have all the hallmarks of a great wine! Despite the powerful fruit, this is elegant, refined and very long. A great wine!

Mommessin – Clos de Tart – Grand Cru – 2008. Pepper, spice and cinnamon come to the fore here. Superb length and balance combine with a silky texture to make this a stunning wine. (From Magnum).

Mongeard Mugneret – Clos de Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2005. Leaner and more structured than the Clos de Tart, this is still youthful, long, fine and powerful. There are cherry fruit notes, while the finish fans out like the proverbial peacocks tail. A superb wine that is immensely long. (From Magnum).

Bordeaux and Dry Reds

From a food perspective, the roast pork that accompanied the bigger reds was spectacular. The crispy skin combined beautifully with the succulent meat. There were Asian cues to the preparation with galangal being an integral part of the seasoning.

In many respects, this dish stole the show!

Chateau Léoville Las Cases – St Julien – 2001. A brilliant wine, though the fruit is wrapped up in a very structured cloak. The tannins are firm, though very fine, while the supple oak complements the fruit perfectly. A powerful wine that will last for years, yet is a joy to drink now. (From Magnum).

Chateau Cos d’Estournel – St Julien – 2000. This is a great wine. The fruit is sweeter than the Las Cases (perhaps reflecting the year), though the wine is still very powerful. Wonderful length and texture, the fruit framed by very fine tannins. A complete wine. (From Magnum).

Chateau Leoville Barton – St Julien – 2000. Another stunning effort. This wine is silky and supple, with wonderful tannin and oak management. The most structured of the three St Juliens, this is masculine and very youthful. (From Magnum).

Joseph Phelps  – Eisele Vineyard  – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1986. Perhaps more than any wine here, the Phelps polarised the group. Spectacular fruit quality and power, but the wine initially appeared a little rustic and old fashioned courtesy of a touch of Brettanomyces. Certainly evolved in the glass and improved significantly as it opened up. (From Magnum).

J L Chave – Hermitage – 1983. This wine is totally, seductive, elegant and fully mature. The palate is defined by its finesse and length, the acidity providing drive right through to the close. From a drinking point of view, this wine was my favourite of the reds! (From Magnum).

Finally

At the end of such a spectacular lunch and with plenty of red wine still on the table, we finished with a selection of cheeses. An excellent way to end a memorable day.

Franck Bonville – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – 2006. A superb way to end the meal, the freshness, balance and power left the palate refreshed (although it did not really refresh my mind at this point!)

 

Margaret River v Coonawarra

Reviewed: 18th May 2013

Margaret River or Coonawarra? I often ask myself that question when I am purchasing or opening cabernet based wines. Ten years ago, I would also have included Bordeaux in the equation, but the tremendous prices being charged for decent Claret makes Bordeaux an unrealistic option for me.

Fortunately the quality of Australian cabernet has continued to improve and the best local wines are equivalent in quality, if not style, to the best imports. The added benefit of shopping locally is that they are invariably sealed with a screw cap, removing the inherent risks associated with cork.

Whilst the current tasting was an opportunity to look at a selection of aged cabernet-based wines, it also gave me the chance to think about the regions.

One of the biggest differences between the two has been vintage conditions. Margaret River has been blessed with an amazing run of vintages starting with 2007 and continuing right through to 2012. (Early indications are that 2013 will also be very good). Coonawarra, on the other hand, has been on somewhat of a roller coaster ride with the highs being followed by lows. Improved viticulture has helped offset some of the lows, but I think it is a good idea to keep an eye on vintage variations.

Call me a fence sitter, but at the end of the tasting, I decided that I needed to keep space in the cellar for both region’s wines. Margaret River will always be the backbone of my cellar due to a combination of familiarity, availability, quality and consistency. In the great years however, I will always make space for Coonawarra. The wines are distinctive, age-worthy and totally delicious.

Wines tasted: 20

Wines reviewed: 10

Reviewed

Raveneau – Chardonnay – Chablis – 2010 (17.8). This is a complex, serious wine on the nose. There is creamy oak, textural barrel ferment characters and fine, pristine fruit. The finish is very long, with lemony acid the backbone that is fleshed out by a hint of sweetness that further enhances the balance. (The warm-up wine)

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1991 (18.2). Dense, sweet ripe fruit leaps from the glass. Think mint, eucalypt, cassis and red berries. There are hints of earth and leather courtesy of the bottle age adding to the great length and lovely texture. There is new-world density to the fruit, but old-world complexity and structure. Lovely drinking.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 1991 (17.8). Remarkable contrast to the Cape Mentelle, as this is fresh and vibrant, yet tight and restrained. There are hints of blueberry, mint, cherry, cinnamon and supple, cedary oak. A powerful wine, yet one that is balanced and restrained. Very long and near seamless, the ever-so-fine tannins providing a sprinkling of dust across the finish.

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2003 (18). This wine really impresses for its sweet, ripe fruit. At ten years of age, there are plenty of dark fruit characters with a touch of mint and eucalyptus. The palate is dense, structured and tannic, needing another 5 – 10 years to really unwind. There is structured oak to close. This is a powerful wine.

Wise – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Bramley – 2003 (18). This is a much softer interpretation on Margaret River cabernet compared to the Sandalford, with red fruits the primary character. There are hints of oak in the background and the very fine tannins build at the very end of the palate. The tannins are actually quite firm suggesting that this wine will still evolve, but it is in its drinking window now.

Coriole – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Mary Kathleen – 1999 (18). This wine has really intense fruit with complex savoury highlights. Think coffee, cinnamon and spice. The palate is textured and long finishing with very fine tannins and supple oak. In the mouth, this is supple, savoury, spicy, fragrant and long. Delicious now, this is an elegant wine from McLaren Vale showing excellent cabernet typicity, yet also some clear regional characters.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 1999 (17.8). Opens with mint over red fruits. This is elegant and drinking very well. There are hints of blackcurrant over cedar and spice on the palate. The finish is fine and long, with the acid cutting through the silky structure. The tannins are amazingly soft and add to the texture. This wine will be a great foil to food.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone  – 1999 (18.5). Compared to the Wynns, this has much more obvious ripe fruit characters. Blackcurrant, cinnamon, spice, mint, eucalypt and subtle, textural oak all meld into a fantastic package on the palate. Whilst refined and elegant, there is tremendous power and length to the fruit. Superb!

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – First Growth – 1998 (18.2). This wine approaches drinking perfection. There are fragrant red fruits, supple spice and silky tannins which combine to make this oh-so-easy to drink. The excellent length of flavours is a highlight and the fruit is very persistent. The tannins build on the finish providing the texture to accompany fine food.

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – 1998 (18.3). Reserved and shy compared to the Parker, this is a superb wine of the highest quality. The palate is dense, ripe, textured and powerful. There are hints of fresh herbs and wonderful fruit. Very structured, yet almost seamless.

 

Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay

Art Series Chardonnay – Pre-Release Tasting

Reviewed: 10th May 2013

Leeuwin Estate rightly has a reputation for producing one of Australia’s top few Chardonnays. When you combine the inherent quality with an unrivalled ability to age, I rate it as the country’s best.

As with almost all Leeuwin Estate wines, the chardonnay is held back in the cellar to allow it to come together before being released. This means that at a time when many wineries are selling their 2012 whites, we gathered to try Leeuwin Estate’s 2010 Chardonnay that is about to be released.

Given the quality, it is not surprising that the chardonnay gets the Rolls Royce treatment. The wine typically sees 100% new oak and great pains are taken to ensure that the oak is of the highest quality. Currently, the winery is using over 20 different types of oak barrels, supplied by a variety of coopers.

Each year, the composition of oak changes subtly as the winery adjusts the makeup to take advantage of the best coopers. In most years, there is no malo-lactic fermentation, the acidity is controlled in the vineyard via canopy management and astute grape harvesting. The vines that produce fruit for the Art Series Chardonnay are now 40 years old and are really in their prime.

Paul Atwood (Senior Winemaker) and Simone Horgan (Joint CEO) took the opportunity to show a mini-vertical of the Art Series Chardonnay, as well as a cross-section of current and upcoming releases from their stable of red wines. It has been an overriding aim of the winery to bring the quality of the reds up to that of the Chardonnay. The quality of the reds tasted suggests that they have succeeded admirably.

Finally, Paul gave me an overview of the 2013 vintage. The growing season started off with a burst of hot weather, giving wine-makers some concerns as to how balanced the fruit would be as it ripened. Later in the growing season however, the weather cooled considerably, allowing the fruit to finish ripening at a much slower pace. This meant that the grapes were able to develop excellent flavour profiles, without getting too high in sugar. It also allowed the grapes to retain excellent natural acidity.

The 2013 Riesling has just been blended and, apparently, the results are very good. The fruit was able to be taken off the vine quite early, with very balanced juice. Paul’s view is that 2013 will be a great year for their reds. The cool finish to the season allowed the fruit to develop excellent depth of flavours. The last cabernet was only picked in mid-April. Importantly, the chardonnay had excellent levels of acidity at harvest.

And the verdict?

The 2010 Art Series Chardonnay is the greatest Australian chardonnay I have ever tasted and is the equal of the greatest White Burgundies. The 2005 is another stunning wine that is just starting to hit its peak. The Prelude chardonnay is worth a mention given the excellent quality. Many wineries would be pleased have this as their premium wine!

Leeuwin Estate can quite rightly claim to be one of the finest wineries in Australia. It is the quality across the entire range that sets it apart from most.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate  – Riesling – Art Series – 2005 (18). This is remarkably fresh, with lime juice, minerals and gentle floral aromas. It has started to develop some toasty characters and just a touch of oiliness. The palate is quite rich and textured, with a touch of phenolic richness adding to the tasting. There is also a touch of nutty fruit to close. This is drinking superbly now, but will hold for a number of years. Paul suggests that the location of the vineyard, which sits in a valley, results in a cooler micro-climate compared to some of the other wineries in the region, allowing the riesling to flourish.

Leeuwin Estate  – Riesling – Art Series – 2012 (17.5- 18). Fragrant talc, minerals and subtle citrus characters on the nose. Like most Leeuwin rieslings that I have tried, this is quite closed and tight now, guaranteeing mid-term aging. The palate is true to the house style, with quite rich, powerful fruit complemented by a touch of phenolic richness. Quite different in style to those from the Great Southern, this needs a little time to settle and express itself.

Leeuwin Estate  – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Art Series – 2010 (18+). This leads off with wine-making influences resulting from barrel fermentation and regular lees stirring. The wine is complex, savoury, dense and textured. The grassy fruit characters really make their presence felt on the palate. There is bright, lemony acid and creamy, subtle oak on a palate that is very long and refined. The semillon adds depth to the palate with lovely citrus fruit. This makes many White Bordeaux’s look quite ordinary.

Leeuwin Estate  – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Art Series – 2011 (17.5-18). Very fresh compared to the 2010. The palate is much more linear and quite lean at first, suggesting that an extra year or two in bottle will really help. Opens to show lovely floral fruit on both the nose and palate in a pretty package. The oak influence on the palate is very subtle and fine, and the lemony acid carries the finish. The wine sees 11 months in barrel with weekly lees stirring. 20% of the oak is new. Given the development of the 2010, this is likely to improve for 5 years and may hold for much longer.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2012 (18). Very pretty fruit that is quite forward and floral on the nose. The palate is surprisingly powerful and intense, balancing peach like fruit characters with minerals, flint, match-strike and creamy oak. There is excellent length and mouth-feel and the fruit flavours linger. This is drinking remarkably well now, but should age for several years if you can resist. Sees 40% new oak, the remainder being second use.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2002 (N.R.). Developing, but still fresh. This was quite subdued on the nose, but opened with air. The palate is very powerful, with grapefruit followed by lovely stone-fruit and powerful minerality.  This gives way to a rich buttery finish. Delicious now.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2005 (18.7). Wow! This is lovely. An absolutely superb wine of great power and intensity, yet this has elegance and finesse. Superb length of flavours on a palate that is seamless and complete. There is still vibrant acidity that will ensure a very long life and the palate evolves for some time. A great wine from a perfect vintage.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2006 (17.9). This is quite different to the 2005, with a leaner fruit profile. The oak is just a little bit toastier than the 2005 and the palate more developed. A lovely wine that has excellent length and powerful fruit. For me, I would drink the 2006 now while waiting for the 05.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009 (18/18.5). Restrained fruit that is subtle and refined showing hints of minerals, citrus and stone-fruit. There is still the tremendous power to the fruit that I have come to expect, but this is still quite tightly coiled and shy. With time though, this will unwind and develop into a superb wine. The creamy, tight, fine oak provides a seamless backdrop to the pristine fruit. The potential is evident. A sleeper.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2010 (18.9). This wine screams class right from the outset. So where to begin? The nose is tight, fine, reserved, elegant and creamy, with stone-fruit (nectarine) and citrus highlights. The palate is incredibly long, supple and refined, with the fruit characters evident, but not obvious. There is a subtly to this wine that is disarming, given the amazing length and intensity of the fruit. This is a truly great wine that needs 5 years to open up and will last for 15 years.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2010 (18). Vibrant red fruits on the nose. The palate has blackcurrant, spice, tobacco leaf and subtle, cedary oak. There are even hints of licorice and the texture is excellent. This really builds in the glass and shows excellent structure, with the tannins providing a textural backdrop to the quality fruit. Delicious now, but will age for 5 – 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2008 (18.3).  Opens with aromas of mint, gentle eucalypt, spice and a touch of cedary oak. The palate has red and blackcurrant fruit of tremendous depth and intensity. The power is evident, but like the chardonnay, this is tight and restrained, needing time to really show its best. There is almost a touch of cassis, but this complements the berry characters rather than dominates them. The cabernet comes from unirrigated, 40 year old vines. Significant attention is given to canopy management to ensure ripeness without losing elegance.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2009 (18.5). This is an interesting contrast to the 2010. This is all about structure and texture, rather than overt fruit flavours. The balance is excellent, with the fruit flavours hidden in the structure. Nothing out of place, but this is a reserved wine built for the long hall. In many ways, this is very much like fine Bordeaux. Superb.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2010 (18/18.5). Beautiful ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is deliciously juicy, with remarkably concentrated fruit sitting under the youthful exuberance. The balance is spot on, but at this early stage of its life, the acid sits on top of the fruit on the finish. The oak is very fine and supple providing excellent texture without adding obvious flavour. Will be superb.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2011 (18 – 18.5). The nose on this is amazing. It is an absolutely complete package. There is ripe fruit, but you can almost smell the textural components that add complexity. The palate is balanced, fine, refined and delicious. This is remarkably approachable now, so many will not get to see how this will develop. Start saving, as this will not be released for a year or two.

Leeuwin Estate  – Shiraz – Art Series – 2010 (18+). Closed and tight, reflecting the power and balance that the 2010 wines from Leeuwin are all showing. Pepper and spice on a palate that is tight and structured, with clever oak use. The finish is almost chewy but still supple and very long. A wine of power but in a cooler climate package. Not to be underestimated. (The vines for this were planted in 1997).

 

 

Pinot Noir and Cabernet

New Release

Reviewed – 11 June 2011

Pinot Noir is a grape that continues to fascinate wine enthusiasts. When made well, the wines are totally seductive. Just the slightest hiccup in the vineyard or winery, however, renders the wine virtually undrinkable.

Unlike shiraz which appears to produce good wines in almost any climate, pinot noir requires very specific and often marginal conditions to produce quality grapes. What this means is that everything has to go well in a given year to make quality wine.

So, good pinot is hard to find, and generally expensive to buy. With this in mind, I am delighted to tell you about the Geppetto pinot from Crittenden Estate. In a fairly strong line up of wines, this performed well. What makes it remarkable though is the fact that it will sell for under $25. This is definitely one to try.

We also looked at a high quality bracket of Cabernets. The Cape Mentelle – Trinders was a highlight and excellent value.

Reviewed

Jackson Estate – Pinot Noir – Vintage Widow – 2009 (18). Dense ripe fruit, with lovely aromas of cherry, spice and red fruits. Powerful fruit that is ripe and fragrant. The palate is redolent in spice and cherries with gentle tar to close. Yes the oak and tannins are noticeable, but the fruit is superb.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2009 (18). Juicy fruit that is ripe and fragrant. Seductive and silky and quite powerful fruit. There are complex forest floor and earthy notes. The oak shuts down the fruit at first, but again, this is a seductive wine that blossomed in the glass.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2008 (18). Restrained and tight nose at first. The palate is silky, supple and long. The fruit is subdued at present, but builds intensity in the glass. Lighter fruit weight but excellent balance, with forest floor complexity and sappy acid to close. This really shone the next day with a pork dish.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2010 (17.9). Firm and earthy, but with dense, ripe and textured fruit. Long, fine and dense, the fruit quality is excellent, and the length a highlight. Really builds in the mouth with excellent texture. Almost chocolate fruit to close with polished oak. A great drink!

Tollana – Pinot Noir – Robinson Family Vineyard – 2008 (17.8). Another wine that caused much discussion. A lovely nose, though this wine was the most obvious of all tasted here. Seductive, rich and refined, the fruit in the palate is powerful. There are earthy, gamey notes and sour cherry acidity that really adds interest. Long, dense and powerful, this is excellent current drinking while waiting for the others to mature.

Marchand and Birch – Pinot Noir – Mount Barrow – 2010. (17.7+). More mainstream Australian style. This shows lean yet ripe fruit that needs a few years to open up. Long and savoury, the fruit is tight and shy. Opens to show cherry, tar and fine oak. Excellent fruit weight and a quality finish. The length is a highlight. This took two days to show its best. Give it 5 years at least before you drink it.

Millbrook – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). Fragrant red fruits, but with some herbal and cherry notes that add interest. Dense and ripe, this hints at potential. Opens to show pretty fruit, though the quality oak needs time to settle. Excellent length and a silky finish. Definitely worth a try. (Made from Great Southern fruit).

Nanny Goat Vineyard – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). This wine divided the panel. I found developed earth and forest floor aromas, over ripe red fruits. The palate is a riot of red berries, strawberries and oak. The finish is long and dense, with a somewhat viscous texture and mouth-feel. For those who like their pinots on the wild side. (This is another wine that improved after a day or two).

Provenance – Pinot Noir – Geelong – 2009 (16.8). Lovely perfumed nose. Strawberry, cherry, but with some earthy complexity. Forward and generous nose. Good fruit weight but not as long or concentrated as the best here. The finish is firm and tarry. A good wine.

And Cabernet

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2009 (18). Closed and restrained though there is ripe fruit and a lift provided by the vanillin oak. A flavour profile that is ripe but very restrained. Fantastic texture and length to the palate. Not as dense as some, but an excellent wine. Develops menthol and eucalypt notes to close. Worth a try!

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Corryton Park – 2009 (17.5). A bigger style from a warmer region. Ripe, dense and vibrant fruit showing blackcurrant and menthol. Chocolate, oak and fine tannins all play on the tongue. Superb fruit and wine making, but in a different style. Excellent balance and mouth-feel that is textured, dense and chewy. Excellent length to a very smart wine. (Cork closure).

Domaine A Tasting

Reviewed: 15 March 2013

Peter and Ruth Althaus started Domaine A in 1989 when they purchased a small vineyard on a 20 hectare property in Tasmania’s Coal Valley. Peter was in Sydney recently to show off the wineries current release wines and taste some back vintages of various wines.

Peter is rightly proud of the wines that he produces. The whole range is of very high quality and the wines are not made to follow fashion. They are individualistic and represent exactly what Peter is trying to achieve.

Personal experience suggests that the wines age superbly, though on the day, I was too late to try the older wines. Others reported that the 1998 Domaine A is drinking superbly (from magnum).

The wines are not cheap, but they are certainly worth seeking out. The usual caveat applies to this report – the wines were not tasted blond, so my points are best used as a guide only.

Reviewed

Domaine A – Sauvignon Blanc – Stoney Vineyard – 2011 (17). Grassy aromas over green pea and gentle herbal notes. This has quite a serious nose and displays good complexity. (whilst this sees no oak, it does spend six months on lees). The palate is viscous and textured, with floral notes over the grassy fruit. With 10g/l of residual sugar, there is notable sweetness from the mid palate through to the long and fine finish. This is something that Peter has done to improve drinkability. Whilst this won’t suit all palates, it makes and excellent alternative to an NZ or Adelaide hills wine.

Domaine A – Sauvignon Blanc – Lady A – 2008 (17.5). From a one hectare plot, this wine gets the royal treatment. Barrel fermentation and 1 year in new French oak followed by further time in the cellar. A complex nose that has minerals and match-strike/flint characters from barrel ferment and lees work. At 5 years of age, this is really coming together beautifully. The hint of gun smoke on the long finish adds interest. Despite the expansive winemaking inputs, this is a surprisingly gentle/elegant wine with subtlety and charm. A delightful wine.

Domaine A – Pinot Noir – Stoney Vineyard – 2011 (17.3). Quite a meaty/earthy nose. Quite grippy on the palate now, this needs a few years for the cherry/pippy fruit to settle in to the structure. With air, this is quite long and dominated by savoury/spicy notes. A smart wine that works best with food, where the savoury characters come in to their own.

Domaine A – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stoney Vineyard – 2007 (17.5). The extra time in bottle makes its presence felt in this wine. Savoury and spicy, with forest floor highlights, this is a long and textured wine of real presence. Whilst a long way removed from the wines of Margaret River and Coonawarra in style, this is a textural feast and represents excellent value.

Domaine A – Cabernet blend – Petit “a” – 2008 (17.8). A much more familiar flavour profile here, with ripe fruit showing black currant and even a hint of cassis. The palate is fine and textured, though the finish is linear and structure. Either food or time will serve this well.

Domaine A – Pinot Noir – Domaine A – 2008 (17.8). Delicate and refined nose that is subtle and intriguing. The palate is extraordinarily fine, with the core of tannins providing a seamless passage from mid palate to the very long conclusion. In the style of Gevrey? According to the website, the low yields mean that it takes two vines to produce each bottle of this wine. (Diam closure).

Domaine A – Cabernet Sauvignon – Domaine A – 2008 (18.5). Densely structured fruit leads the attack on the nose. This is a powerful wine, though it is not “big”. The power comes from concentrated fruit that whilst ripe, is at the cooler end of the flavour spectrum. There are hints of black fruits, crushed ant, a touch of menthol and supple, cedary spice. The length is outstanding, though this needs years to reach its peak. The wine spends three years in new French oak and is held back for another two years in bottle. A superb wine and a worthy alternative to the wines of Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle etc.

Xavier Bizot’s Selection

3 August 2011

Xavier Bizot has an illustrious pedigree when it comes to wine. His family owns Bollinger, and his father-in-law is Brian Croser of Petaluma fame.

Xavier was at Lamont’s in Cottesloe to showcase a cross-section of the wines that he distributes in Australia. The range consists of imported wines and the wines made by Brian Croser under the Tapanappa label. This is an idiosyncratic range, but there is an obvious focus on producing stylish, refined wines from carefully selected sites.

Please note that the majority (I think all) of the wines were sealed with a cork. Also, this was not a blind tasting, so my points are only preliminary.

A special thanks to John Jens and the team at Lamont’s. Not only was the function superbly run, it delivered extraordinary value!

Reviewed

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Pinot Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Dry and austere on the nose, though there are obvious varietal and regional characters. Think slate and a touch of mineral. There are floral hints on the palate, but this is all about texture. Rich, round, viscous and even a touch oily. The length is a standout, aided by a touch of residual sugar to flesh out the palate. Sat well alongside some scallops.

Domaine Marcel Deiss – Premier Cru – Burg – Single Vineyard – 2003 (17-18). Aromatic, even Sauternes like aromas. Powerful fruit notes with lychees, tropical fruits and a touch of rose. The palate is very textured and viscous, without the oiliness of the pinot blanc. This is a high impact, turbocharged wine of some charm. The botrytis component turns the dial up to 11! A wine to taste on its own perhaps. The wines from Deiss focus on the vineyard perhaps more than the grapevine. They are using numerous clones of the various grapes, but also blending different varieties (13 in this case) when producing their single vineyard wines.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2008 (18+). Tight, austere and elegant. There is creamy fruit on the nose, with lees and very fine oak highlights. Excellent palate that is expansive yet full of nervous energy. This is modern and very tight. The palate has some pineapple, melon and lemon fruit characters. Fine and elegant, with a tangy finish courtesy of the lemony acid.

Tapanappa – Chardonnay – Tiers Vineyard – 2007 (17-18). Quite a different style to the 2008. The fruit was initially very subdued, with the medium toast oak providing the dominant flavours and aromas. This really opened up in the glass displaying powerful fruit that soaked up the oak. Very powerful and complex. Most people preferred this wine, though I would rather drink the 2008.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Anjou Villages – Sur Schistes – 2009 (17). Floral fruit, though the structural components are never far away. Savoury, sappy, long and juicy, this is an interesting wine that has seen no oak. From the Loire.

Ceretto – Barolo DOCG – Zonchera – 2007 (18+). This is a lovely wine. Cherry and savoury notes that are fine and balanced. The palate has plenty of tar, leather and spice. The mouth-feel is tight and restrained due to the (very fine and supple) tannins. The finish is somewhat grippy right now, but the balance is spot on. The length of the finish is a feature. Give it 5 – 10 years to open up a little.

Tapanappa – Merlot – Whalebone Vineyard – 2003 (17 – 17.5). Perfumed nose redolent of violets. The palate has cedar, plum and floral notes. The tannins are still remarkably firm, though they are supple enough to make this a good drink. Needs years more to show its best.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2006 (17 – 18). I struggled to understand this wine at first as it was very closed and tight. The sweet, ripe fruit really builds and the textured finish is fine and savoury, with a souring finish. Points awarded for potential.

Tapanappa – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Whalebone Vineyard – 2004 (18+). This wine had to compete with the aromas of a superb Wagyu steak. The fruit shows chocolate, leather and spice, with tight knit oak in support. This has lovely mouth-feel and excellent length. It is supple, textured and quite delicious. A quality wine!

Francois Lumpp – Givry AOC – Pied de Clou – 2009 (17). Quite shy, with delicate fruit. This has been well made. Sympathetic winemaking allows the fruit to shine, as the oak is only secondary and the tannins are nicely polished. Good short term drinking.

Domaine du Clos de Tart – Pinot Noir – 2008 (NR). How do you point a wine that is so unique. From a single monopole vineyard, Clos du Tart is the name of the winery, the vineyard AND the appellation. Created in the 12th century, the vineyard has only had three owners in its history. Destined to live for many years, this is hard to appraise now as the wine is very closed… Herbal, savoury and a touch stalky, this is tight, focused and very long. Spicy notes (clove and cinnamon) dominate the palate. The tannins impart a talcum powder like effect on the finish.

Chateau Pierre Bise – Chenin Blanc – Coteaux du Layon – Rouannieres – 2009 (17.7+). Fresh and vibrant nose with floral soap/talc aromas. The palate is intensely sweet and concentrated. The palate is viscous, rich and oily, with ground almond and cashew nut textural components. There is 220grams/litre of residual sugar, though the refreshing acidity prevents this from getting too cloying in the mouth. Delicious.

Grosset/Mosswood Launch and Friends

15 September 2010

When I was informed that Matt Holden, the Sales Manager for Fine Wine Wholesalers decided to put on his new release wines from Grosset, Mosswood and Pierro etc, I jumped at the chance to review the wines.

The highlight was the Grosset Polish Hill. A truely great wine. There were a few other stars including the Mt Horricks 2010 riesling and the Mosswood Chardonnay.

Please note, the wines were not tasted blind, and this may have influenced my points.

Reviewed (in order tasted)

Mt Horricks – Riesling – 2009 (17.5). Floral, perfumed, round and mellow, yet with lovely lime juice acidity. The palate is long and tight to close, but this is a touch more developed than the others here.

Mt Horricks – Riesling – 2010 (18.1). Lifted fruit on the vibrant nose, with musk and lime juice. There is even a touch of granny smith apples. Lemon and lime brule on the palate. This is fine, long and quite seamless. (This is possibly the best riesling ever made by this producer.)

Grosset – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010.(18.7). Wow, this is special. The nose is restrained and tight, yet bristling with potential. There are lovely floral notes and a touch of citrus. The palate is fine, taught, crisp and seamless. The length is outstanding and the floral notes continue on the extraordinarily fine finish. This is the best young Australian riesling that I have ever tasted!

Grosset – Riesling – Springvale – 2010 (18). Surprisingly closed by comparison to others here. Steely nose with minerals and lime juice. A touch of orange rind. Again, very long and with floral and musk on the close. Very good.

Lenton Brae – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Wilyabrup – 2009 (17.5). Complex and grassy with green apple. This is clean, fresh and vibrant, yet there is a lot of intrinsic power coiled up and waiting to develop over a few years. Interesting wine.

Pierro – Chardonnay – 2008 (18.2+). Pineapple fruit, lees, barrel ferment and oak all appear on the lifted nose. Peaches and cream to the fore on the palate. This is very long and fine. It is a more forward style, yet retains its elegance and poise. Good length and excellent mouth-feel. This really opens and gets better with air.

Mosswood – Chardonnay – 2008 (18.2). Restrained and closed on the nose – this is extraordinarily fine. Yes there are some pineapple and stone fruit characters, yet these are subdued. Whilst the oak is a little forward right now, this will settle. A textural treat that needs a few years to show its best.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.6). Perfectly ripe and very dense, the fruit quality here is superb. This is ripe, with raspberry, blueberry, blackcurrant, cedar, spice and a touch of tar. The fruit is incredibly dense and fine, suggestive of a warmer year. Silky tannins and excellent length of flavours are a feature. As this opened, it displayed more of the characters typical of Margaret River cabernet.

Chapel Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 – (18). Dense and closed initially, this has impressive fruit on the nose. The palate is dense and firm, the fruit characters are subdued and the tannins are fine if a bit chalky. Very good fruit combined with excellent winemaking guarantee a very long future. (This should also be good value).

Pierro – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2005 – (18). Cooler fruit characters with mint and some eucalypt. Perfectly ripe fruit that is starting to show the first signs of development. The palate is soft and supple, and there is good mouth-feel. Not quite as dense fruit as the others, but great drinking.

Feet First – Shiraz – 2008 (17.7). Fresh, but with dense fruit. The palate is all pepper and spice. There is cinnamon and nicely weighted fruit. The tannins are firm, but these will soften. Should be excellent value.

Chapel Hill – Shiraz – 2008 (18.3). Dense, ripe and displaying very good fruit. Super wine this, the fruit is dense and ripe, yet this is a restrained wine that will need years to show its best. Some chocolate to close. Silky tannins and Satsuma plum fruit. Textured, balanced and excellent oak.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2008 (18.4). Intense and racy nose. The intensity of fruit on the palate is a revelation. The finish is fine, long and seamless – this is a superb wine. Excellent length and intensity of fruit.

Lamont’s – Direct Imports

12 September 2010

Lamont’s in Cottesloe has received another shipment of imported wines. Apparently they are importing the wines direct from Europe, thus cutting out the middle-men. The prices range from good to excellent for the given quality, with the Italian selection being particularly good value.

Wines from Burgundy have become so expensive in general, that even at these ex-ship prices, they are quite pricey, though there is still some value to be found.

My picks include the Bonon – Meursalt, Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba, Araldica – Barbera d’Ast and the Arpatin – Barolo.

This was not a blind tasting, so I have tried not to be too generous with my points. With the reds, I could have been more generous with my points, but because we were only trying one or two wines from each style, I was conscious of the lack of perspective. Be assured that these are good wines.

Tasted

White Burgundy

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Les Tillets – 2008 (17.8). Minerals to the fore, with complex almond meal, cashew nut and lemony oak. The palate is very rich and textured, with slightly honeyed fruit. The length is a highlight and the oak is not obtrusive. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Meursalt – Clos de la Velle – 2006 (17.9). Much finer and closed compared to the Bonin. Develops nutty fruit and minerals with air. In the mouth, this is creamy, seamless, textured and very fine indeed. The fruit is subdued. One for the purists! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Darvoit Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots 1er Cru – 2006 (18.3). Lovely refined nose, with minerally, textural components overlaying curry leaf and creamy oak. The palate really builds in the mouth, but this remains very elegant and fine. (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Meursalt – Charmes 1er Cru – 2007 (17.4). Interestingly, this has all the components of a good white burgundy, yet I preferred the Les Tillets! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Phillippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Les Pucelles 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Classic nose. Complex, yet refined, this is more restrained than some here. There is almond and apricot fruit notes intertwined with creamy textural components. The power on the palate is a revelation, yet this remains very fine and seamless. Superb wine! (Chardonnay).

Domaine Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18). From one of my favourite appellations. More peachy fruit on the nose, this is all about refinement. There is a minerality to the palate, with excellent balance and length. This is a very subtle wine. (Chardonnay).

Red Burgundy

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Aux Faulques – 2008 (16.8). A good entry level burgundy, with simple fruit characters. The mouth-feel, fruit and texture are all good.

Domaine Philippe Livera – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2007 (17.9). More complex nose displaying plum, blueberry and earthy notes that combine well. Lovely fruit on the palate, and real depth. This is quite seamless, long and taught. A lovely example.

Domaine Humbert Freres – Gevery Chambertain – Poissenot 1er Cru – 2007 (18.2). Complex, but quite closed. Develops lovely perfumed fruit, reminiscent of violets. The palate is closed and tight, yet delicate and very fine. Superb length and texture, the refinement is the key.

Domaine Jean Marc Millot – Vosne Romanee – Les Suchots 1er Cru – 2008 (18.5+). Complex and earthy, this has licorice, tar, cinnamon, spice and raspberry fruit. The fruit characters are more pronounced on the palate, with incredibly fine tannins. The oak has been absorbed by the fruit. This has superb length and depth, and the finish fans out across the palate beautifully.

Italian

Arpatin – Barbera d’Alba – Superiore – 2008 (17). Lovely cherry fruit with tar and licorice on the nose. This is a fruit driven wine that is fresh, vibrant, juicy, soft and thoroughly refreshing. A modern style and great value.

Poderi Alasia – Barbera d’Asti – Rive (Il Cascinone) – 2007 (17.3). More savoury and earthy, with licorice, spice and lots of pepper. The palate is reminiscent of cool climate shiraz, with peppery fruit, that is long, textured and structured. There is leathery fruit to close.

Frascole – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.4). Cherry fruit to open, but briary and dense, with leather and spice. The palate is dominated by spicy fruit and drying tannins. A good example, and organic to boot!

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2007 (17.8). More complex, with more fruit weight than the Frascole. This is very textured and structured in a traditional style where the fresh fruit notes are exchanged for mouth-feel and structure. Another organic wine, but this is crying out for food. Good value!

– d’Annona – Barbera d’Asti- 2007 (17.8). Wow – this has an exciting nose displaying cherry, tobacco, plums, cedar and anise. This keeps evolving. This is a powerful wine where fruit, oak and tannins combine to coat the palate with an amalgam of flavours and textures. Will be even better in a year or two.

Arpatin – Barbaresco – 2006 (17.5). More savoury, with real density. There is licorice all sorts on the nose. Typical of the style, this is textured and has really chewy tannins. Whist the tannins are fine, they are formidable. 10 years +.

Arpatin – Barolo – 2005 (17.8). Savoury, with dark fruits, cherry, coffee and tar. The palate is really dense and chewy. The tannins are finer than the Barbaresco. This is great value, but needs at least 10 years to show its best.

Gianni Voerzio – Barolo – La Serra – 2005 (18+). Closed. Pristine fruit, silky tannins and excellent texture. Superb mouth-feel and tremendous depth, this is fine and dense. (Not cheap though).

Cabernet and Friends

New Release

Reviewed: 6 January 2013

Cabernet based wines must surely be the King of wines. Powerful, structured and majestic, their ability to age is second to none when it comes to red wine. This power was certainly on display during this tasting, though the expression varied. In some, the power was overt, while in others, there was latent power wrapped up in a cocoon of silky fruit.

In the first category, the wines included the Deep Woods and Killerby. Powerful wines that stand up and make their presence felt. The second group was typified by the Moss Wood and Faber. Elegant, restrained wines that have supple, fragrant fruit. In a large line-up of wines, it is easy to overlook these wines as they are all about elegance and supple balance, rather than in-your-face tannins and oak.

It took a couple of days for the second group to really hit their peak, but the result was beautifully fragrant wines of charm and style. Bravo!

Reviewed

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18+). Mint/menthol, eucalypt and herbal notes on the nose. The palate is chewy, textured and long. The tannins are firm and the oak is sitting over the fruit at present. Opens with air to show blackcurrant, cedar and eucalypt, with hints of bitter chocolate, coffee and spice to close. A structured, angular wine that, while a touch raw now, will be superb in 10 years. A high quality wine.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2010 (18). Closed and brooding, this is an assertive wine that has plenty of extract and grip. The length is good, while the persistence is outstanding. The wine is remarkably silky up front, though this is difficult to drink now due to the firm finish. 10 – 15 years should see this hitting its peak. With air, there are intense, ripe berry flavours with a touch of tea leaf savouriness. A serious wine for the long haul.

Wolf Blass – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Malbec – Black Label – 2008 (18). Beautiful colour. Leads off with hints of varnish and resin on the nose from the oak. This blows off to show ripe, though restrained fruit on the nose. The palate has ripe, but firm fruit, with red fruits, cedar and spice. The length is prodigious and the tannins firm and drying. The oak is ever present on the finish. Complex, structured and tannic, this opened up over several days to show lovely, fragrant fruit. No apologies required for being made in the Wolf Blass style.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18). Subtle fruit and oak on the nose. Everything about this speaks quality. The refined winemaking has resulted in elegant fruit being well matched to silky oak. The tannins are polished, though noticeable, while the finish is precise. The length is very good and the mouth-feel evolves for some time after the last sip, with a touch of mocha characters to close. This is an intense wine with essence-like fruit. With air the blackcurrant, eucalypt and herbal notes really shine.

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Metricup Road – 2010 (17.8). Spice to open on the nose with cedar over a core of ripe, mid-weight fruit. This is a structured, textural wine that has little in the way of primary fruit. Opens and builds with air, but some patience is required. There is no doubting the quality, it is just that there is no joy as yet. Give it plenty of air or, better yet, 5 – 10 years in the cellar to show its best.

Moss Wood – Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2010 (17.7). Wow, the lovely perfumed fruit leaps out of the glass. This is redolent of blackcurrant, cedar and spice. There is even a hint of fruitcake. The palate is beautifully ripe and precisely weighted. The fruit is balanced by very fine tannins and savoury, texturing oak. The length is excellent and the fruit flavours build and evolve for some time. The finish is near seamless, though there is a touch of grip to close. Will age well, but is absolutely delicious now.

Faber Vineyard – Malbec – Dwellingup Vineyard – 2011 (17). The colour is almost crimson/purple. This is very deep smelling, with blueberry and raspberry over mint, with briary, earthy undertones. The souring finish adds life, though there is a touch of astringency on the close (that softens noticeably with air). This wine has excellent quality fruit that has been massaged in the winery, resulting in a pretty wine full of subtlety.

Faber Vineyard – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Overt nose that shows very pretty, ripe fruit and well-handled oak. The palate on the other hand is firm and quite tannic. There are also plum and mulberry jam components. After a day on the tasting bench, this really softened, allowing the pretty, fragrant fruit to shine. Whilst ideal for lovers of a big red now, this will be much better with a few years in the cellar. Diam cork closer.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Juniper Crossing – 2010 (17.3). Not in the “typical” cab/merlot style as this is a big, powerful cabernet with rich fruit and firm tannins. The oak sits over the fruit on the finish, further accentuating the structure. Chewy, this is a wine that I would prefer to see again in another 5 years.

Angove – Merlot – Long Row – 2011 (16.3). Plump, soft fruit with good attack. Redcurrant and spice lead on to a somewhat developed palate. (This is also reflected in the colour). Soft, round and generous, with no rough edges. The lack of fruit intensity can easily be forgiven at this price. An easy drink.

Cabernet and Blends – New Release

Reviewed: 12 December 2012

A large bracket of cabernet based wines makes for a tiring tasting. The firm tannins and relatively reserved fruit present a challenge. This was typified by the wines from Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle. Both are obviously high quality, though they really need several (many) years in the cellar to show their best.

By comparison, the Devil’s Lair was much more approachable. This is a superb wine that whilst very age-worthy, is a lovely drink today.

Finally, the Long Row is another bargain from Angove.

Reviewed

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Inky fruit here! Expect mint, spice and red fruits with a touch of eucalypt to reflect its cooler region origins. There is blackcurrant fruit on the palate and the wine has been superbly made. The oak, whilst shutting the fruit down on the finish somewhat, is supple and sympathetic to the mid-weight fruit. The tannins are refined and precise on the finish, making this an excellent drink now or in ten years +.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2010 (17.9). A closed nose only hinting at potential, with violets and blueberry aromas developing in the glass. It is on the palate that this really shows its class with fine fruit and refined winemaking. Elegant and reserved, this is a wine that needs plenty of air or 10 years in the cellar to show its best. The finish is quite tight courtesy of the very fine oak and tannins. A leaner style that will evolve. (This took 5 days on the tasting bench to really open up).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders 2011 (17.7+). There are hints of succulent fruit here, however this is quite reserved and tight on first presentation. There are firm tannins, dense fruit and a touch of spice too. The depth on the palate with brambly blackcurrant fruit, structural oak and excellent length, is a highlight. Whilst this is on the third rung of the Cape Mentelle quality ladder, this is a serious, high quality wine that deserves time in the cellar. Excellent buying at under $25, but give it plenty of air if you are going to drink it soon.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Hannah’s Hill – 2011 (17.6). Dense fruit on a nose that is ripe and alluring, yet still quite tight. The fruit is quite bright, showing cassis and minty notes. The palate is quite firm and austere, suggesting that this wine needs a few years to reach its drinking window. We had this as the first wine of the tasting, which is always difficult when the wines are tannic.

Marri Wood Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Appealing aromas of red and blueberry fruit, with a touch of eucalypt and new oak (cedar and coconut). There is dense, ripe fruit, with supple tannins that coat the mouth. There is excellent length and mouth-feel to close. I assume the “Reserve” title is due to the amount of time this wine spent in new oak. Time will tell whether the medium-weight fruit will fully integrate with the oak, but this is an appealing wine all the same.

Galafrey – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.4). I like the balance here. The good quality fruit has been matched well to fine-grained oak. The tannins are ripe and fine while the fruit expresses itself on the finish. The palate is long and succulent, with chewy tannins to close. Perhaps a touch rustic, but an enjoyable wine.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2010 (16.9). Ripe fruit that is forward and succulent. The palate is quite simple, but balanced and supple. A good, early drinking style, with very fine tannins and a hint of oak. Not overly concentrated, but this is varietally correct. At under $10, this is another screaming bargain from the team at Angove. (This received a gold medal from one taster).

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot -2011 (16.5). Ripe fruits with a touch of menthol and sweet oak on the nose. This is a relatively straightforward wine that is very easy to drink. The tannins are supple and add texture to the finish.