Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium New Release

Barry Weinman: 12^th December 2016

I recently wrote about the current range of Shiraz released by Cherubino and this time it was the Cabernets that shone. These are very fine, elegant wines that will be extremely long lived. I left the bottles on my tasting bench and they continued to improve for 4-5 days, and were still in excellent condition after a week!

Following on from the success of the 2014 Filius from Vasse Felix, I was very keen to try the Premium (Gold Capsule) from the same vintage. Whilst it is not due to be released until sometime in 2017, winemaker Virginia Wilcock kindly provided a pre-release sample to include in the tasting.

The wine lived up to my expectations; high quality fruit brilliantly crafted into an elegant/refined package. This is a wine destined for a very long future (and higher points).

In some ways, the highlight of the tasting was the SRS from Flametree. A wine that manages to provide great drinking now, yet will age well for years to come. I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of this with chicken poached in master stock.

At a completely different price point, the Wynns offered great value everyday drinking.

It was a privilege to try some of the wines in this tasting, such was the quality on display. Given their relative youth and restraint, they are sure to score even higher points in years to come.

Reviewed

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18.7pts – $65). Precise, ripe berry fruit on the nose, with more immediate generosity than the Vasse Felix. The palate is very long and savoury, with the bright acidity and remarkably fine tannins framing the fruit wonderfully. The finish gets a little tight, but really opened up with air. Whilst this will reward cellaring, the elegance, balance and poise makes this my pick of the tasting to drink now.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014 (18.5++pts – $110). Beautiful purple colour in the glass. Amazing depth to the fruit, though this is just a baby. The fruit is inky on the palate, with blueberry and cedar from the tight grained oak. This is quite closed and tight, yet the fine structural components allow a preview of the high quality fruit. This wine really needs decades to show its best.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2014 (18.5+pts – $75). Compared to the Frankland River, this is actually quite pretty. Mulberry, spice, cedar, blackcurrant and menthol aromas. Fine silky textural components, over pristine, medium bodied (for Cabernet) fruit. Excellent palate transition leads to dusty tannins on the finish. Will be better in a decade, but could be drunk now with plenty of air.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Premium* – 2014 (18.5+pts – $46). Very youthful and vibrant, the cherry-like fruit is accompanied by mint and eucalypt aromas. The palate is firm and textured, yet the fruit still shines through and the balance is exemplary. The way the fruit fans out on the finish is a delight. A wine of distinction, this could be drunk now with joy or anytime over the next 20 years and is sure to score higher points in years to come

* Sitting between the Filius and the Heytesbury, this is known as the premium, but the word does not appear on the front label. The wine is easily identified by the gold screw cap.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – “Red Stripe” – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Lively, fresh and delicious, with cherry and berry fruit balanced by the fine though firm tannins. Whilst good now, this will be even better with short-term cellaring. Available for $14 from Dan Murphy, making this a bargain.

Cherubino Shiraz – 2015 Releases

Barry Weinman: November 2016

I have written previously about the magic that Larry Cherubino can work with grapes. His Rieslings and Cabernet based wines are often brilliant.

A challenge for consumers can be the plethora of different wines released from each variety. These appear under a number of different labels including Cherubino, The Yard, Laissez Faire, Avant Gardiner, Ad Hoc and Middle of Everywhere.

To make it even more confusing, there are several wines released under the Cherubino and Yard labels.

None of the above really matters when the quality of the wines are considered. Irrespective of the price-point, the wines are excellent.

Importantly, the quality of the cheaper wines can make these great bargains.

In the current tasting, the panel reviewed a cross section of the 2015 vintage Shiraz, and the wines did not disappoint.

One highlight (from a value perspective) was the 2014 Apostrophe. A brilliantly packaged, easy drinking red that is sure to please. It is sold out at the winery, but both Liquor Barons and Nicks had it available from their websites at the time of writing.

The other highlight was how the wines developed in the bottle. I left the wines on the tasting bench and the fruit continued to build and open for up to 5 days. Even after a week, they were in great nick. This reinforces their ability to age in bottle for a decade or more.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Shiraz – Cherubino – 2015 (18.7+pts – $55). Hints of vanilla and spice over dense, powerful black fruits. Tar, liquorice, plum and cedar lead on to a textured, balanced palate. The fruit gets quite chewy, yet the tannins and oak are perfectly integrated. A superbly made wine that can be drunk now with joy, but will age comfortably for a decade or two.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Acacia Vineyard – 2015 (18.5pts – $35). Lithe and elegant, though again, there is a degree of depth to the fruit and really good mouth-feel. T  he finish is quite silky, with the acid, tannin and oak all sympathetic to the fine fruit. This has medium bodied fruit, but is the most finely structured of the trio. Needs years to really open up, or an hour in a decanter and a decent steak.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $35). Lighter, more aromatic plum and mulberry fruit, especially on the palate. Medium weight and pretty, this is very approachable, with supple acidity and fine, tight tannins. Stylistically, this sits in-between the structure of the Acacia and the approachability of the Justin. Will be wonderful with a homemade pizza. Drink this while waiting for the Acacia.

Cherubino – Shiraz – Laissez Faire – Syrah – 2015 (18pts – $39). Pretty, vibrant fruit a real highlight. This has had a gentle touch in the winery, allowing the sour cherry fruit to shine. Elegant and supple, yet the fruit lingers and builds. The structural oak and tannins tighten things up on the finish, suggesting time in the bottle will only help.

Cherubino – Shiraz/Grenache – Laissez Faire – 2015 (17.8pts – $29). Wonderful purple colour, no doubt aided by the Grenache. This has really deep smelling peppery fruit. The palate has dark, brooding fruit along with aniseed, plum, chocolate and spice. With air, this gets quite pretty, while the supple tannins and fine oak add structure to the finish.

Apostrophe – Shiraz/Grenache/Mouvedre – ‘14 – progressive reds – Frankland River – 2014 (17.5pts – $16). Supple, fragrant berries on the nose with hint of creaming soda. Delicious palate that is soft and slurpable, with gentle tannins and acid adding balance. Uncomplicated and eminently drinkable. Brilliant packaging for this wonderfully priced everyday red.

Cherubino – Shiraz – The Yard – Justin Vineyard – 2015 (17.5pts $35). The most approachable and glugable of the trio of Yard wines. That said, it continued to evolve and build for a number of days.

New Release: November 2016

Barry Weinman: 21^st November 2016

This tasting provided several highlights. Brilliant value from the likes of Shingleback and Angoves, along with serious wines from Karawatta and Shottesbrooke.

Something for everyone!

Reviewed

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Long Row – 2016 (17pts – $10). Pretty floral fruit on the nose. The palate is textured and chewy, the phenolic richness balanced by fine acidity. Near seamless palate transition is remarkable at this price-point. Unbelievable value.

Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). Fragrant red berries/strawberries and supple spice. The palate is fairly light bodied, but the fruit sits well within this frame. The palate transition is excellent, with just a little bit of grip on the close. Very easy to drink with a BBQ this summer, or should develop depth with a few years in the bottle. Definitely worth a look.

  Shiraz

Angove – Shiraz – Long Row – 2015 (16.8pts – $10). Fragrant and floral nose. Medium bodied, with plump fruit and an approachable, gentle structure. Uncomplicated, but a decent drink.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Aficionado – 2015 (18pts – $15). Souring cherry/plum fruit is the primary focus here. Whilst the fruit is ripe and dense, the fresh acidity gives this life, allowing it to be drunk with pleasure young. The supple oak and tannins add texture to the quality fruit. Impressive, and unbelievable value.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Flint Rock – 2014 (17.5pts – $28). Lovely fruit on the nose, with lifted aromatics over savoury components. The palate is medium weight, with the textural/structural components adding focus. Good length, this finishes with drying tannins and acidity. A food wine, this would be at its best with roast meats and represents handsome drinking.

Karrawatta – Shiraz – Dairy Block – 2015 (18pts – $38). Reviving an old Clare Valley name. Ripe, dense and textured fruit that is really concentrated, with intense raspberry/strawberry characters. Big and powerful in the mouth, yet with decent balance and structure. I would leave this for 5 years at least, but will last for at least 15. An excellent wine!

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Eliza – Reserve – 2013 (18.7pts – $60). A different style to those from WA, showing plum, fresh berries and mint. An impressive wine where the ripe, high quality fruit is balanced by savoury characters and refreshing acidity. There are hints of chocolate and coffee, as well as liquorice and spice. The depth of the fruit is amazing as is the structure. A powerful dense wine that will live for decades, yet will be a joy with lamb cutlets now.

Talijancich – Liqueur Shiraz – 1980 Solero – NV. (18.9pts – $65). Sweet and vibrant, yet amazingly concentrated and complex. The balance is excellent, as is the length and mouth-feel. The drying acid adds balance to the sultana-like fruit. Viscous, with enormous length, the combination of fresh and aged material makes this dangerously easy to drink. Points are irrelevant, this is liquid gold!

October New Release – Mixed

Barry Weinman: 25^th October 2016

Top quality Chardonnay is one of the world’s great wines, capable of possessing depth and power, yet retaining balance and a degree of elegance. Unfortunately, it has also been expensive, particularly when compared to the best Australian Rieslings.

As the wine industry has matured in Australia, the regions that are best suited to growing Chardonnay have been identified, and attention has been given to the clones of Chardonnay planted. Simultaneously, winemakers have developed a greater appreciation for how to handle the fruit in the winery to maximize the enjoyment.

As a result, the number of high quality wines has increased dramatically, and it is now possible to find an excellent wine for a reasonable cost. Whilst high quality Riesling can be found for (considerably) less, there is a place for good Chardonnay, particularly with food.

The Flametree SRS topped this tasting and is priced sensibly given the quality. The Scotchmans Hill was a standout for value. An excellent wine that will be even better in a year or two.

In the reds, the highlight was the superb Rolling Stone Cabernet from McHenry Hohnen. Not cheap, but a world-class wine.

Reviewed

Flametree – Chardonnay – SRS – Wallcliffe – 2015 (18.5pts). Fine fruit on the nose, with lovely curry-leaf minerality. This continues on the palate, and reminds me of a powerful White Burgundy. Very long and near seamless, with excellent mouth-feel. Youthful, the fine acidity drives the finish at present. The stand-out wine of the tasting, deserving of the finest food.

Scotchmans Hill – Chardonnay – 2014 (18/18.5pts – $35). A seductive wine with an evolving array of aromas and flavours including lemon, vanilla, peach, nectarine and grapefruit. Really builds presence in the glass. This took a while to open up and actually showed its best after being open for a day or two after the slight oak astringency settled back into the fruit. A lovely wine that will benefit from decanting an hour before consumption. Value for money.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.3pts). Closed, tight and fine. Powerful fruit, with grapefruit and lemon characters to the fore. Builds melon and subtle stonefruit notes with air. Very long and quite complex, courtesy of the barrel work. Needs a year or two to settle, but will be brilliant drinking. A serious wine. (Sealed with a cork).

Curley Flats – Chardonnay – Macedon Ranges – 2013 (18pts). Quite fine and elegant, but there is depth and power to the fruit, albeit in a subtle way. Finishes a little astringent, with the fine-grained oak carrying the fruit to the close. Balanced and well made, this is a modern, leaner style that would benefit from a year or two in bottle.

Coward & Black – Chardonnay – 2015 (17.8). Complex nutty fruit on the nose. Initially quite lean on the palate, though with air, the pineapple fruit and acidity is a feature. Not overly complex, but has decent length, making for a good drink. Well-made and should be good value.

Red Wine

McHenry Hohnen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Petit Verdot – Rolling Stone – 2011 (18.6pts – $100). Very deep smelling, the blackcurrant fruit has a cassis-like character. The palate is very powerful. The minerality, fine tannins and structuring oak provide a backdrop for the high quality fruit. Great drinking, with a degree of subtlety that belies the power. Sure to age well.

Coward & Black – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Brothers – 2011 (17.8). Decent depth to the redcurrant fruit, with hints of cedar and spice from the oak. The youthful fruit is balanced by fine tannins and texturing oak. The palate has excellent length and decent mouth-feel, though it gets a little chewy on the close, suggesting that a few years in the bottle will add to the pleasure. Smart wine. 

Coward & Black – Shiraz – Show Shiraz – 2014 (17.7pts). Lovely sweet fruit on the nose, with an almost floral, rose petal aroma. The palate is chock-full of plum and dark berry fruit, with licorice and spice to close. The finish is spot on, with the tannins and oak sitting nicely with the fruit.

Sauvignon Blanc & Semillon – October New Releases

Barry Weinman: 22^nd October 2016

With Sauvignon Blanc, either alone or in combination with Semillon, the winemaker can have just as big an impact on the style as the terroir (vineyard location, soil weather etc.). The variations in style appear greater than with many other varietals.

Leaving the wine on its lees post fermentation (+/- stirring/batonage) as well as barrel fermentation and oak aging can impact in a number of ways. In small quantities (as little as 5% of the blend), this can add depth and texture to the wine.

As the proportion of the blend increases, the aromas and flavours can really change, moving away from the fresher, fruit-forward style to a powerful, serious wine that can show a variety of complex characters as well as obvious oak influences.

At the extreme, these wines can be challenging to drink, the minerality and secondary characters taking priority over the fruit. I prefer the middle ground, where the fruit is complemented by wonderful depth and complexity from the winemaking inputs.

In this month’s tasting, Fraser Gallop provided an excellent example of how good this style can be. The 2015 Paterre SSB has plenty of interesting characteristics, yet there is a core of quality fruit that offers immediate appeal.

In a different style, but equally enjoyable, is the Shaw + Smith. Here is a straight Sauvignon Blanc where the exuberant fruit really shines. The most enjoyable wine that I have tried under this label.

Reviewed

Fraser Gallop – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Parterre – 2015 – (18pts – $35). This wine really stands out for both the quality fruit and the complex winemaking inputs. There is real depth and power here, with minerality, struck match and fresh lemon. The palate has a slightly viscous feel without being cloying. Excellent.

Shaw + Smith – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.8pts). Very youthful, with a touch of retained CO2 adding verve. This has exuberant fruit and supple grassy overtones and a touch of nectarine. Good mouth-feel and decent length make for an excellent drink. Will make you want a second glass.

Singlefile – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Great Southern – 2016 (17.5pts – $25). A fresh, lively wine with balance and poise. There are tropical fruits and gentle lantana aromas. A supple mouth-feel, perhaps aided by a touch of barrel ferment, leads on to lemony acid on the finish. Delicious.

Coward & Black – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2016 (17.5pts). Floral fruit, with tropical and grassy notes. Good length and mouth-feel, with apricot kernel and nutty notes to close. Balanced and textured, suggesting a little lees work. Try it on a sunny afternoon this spring.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2016 (17.2pts). Fresh and light, with grassy fruit characters and gentle nuttiness. The palate is long, with gentle zesty notes. Excellent drinking now

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Exmoor – 2015 (17pts – $18). An exuberant nose showing gooseberry, lantana, tropical fruit salad and passionfruit. The palate is fresh, with racy acid and tropical fruit lingering on the close. Not overly long, but moreish and an interesting alternative to a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Riesling – October New Release

Barry Weinman: 17^th October 2016

When it comes to Australian Riesling, Grosset sits at the top of the pyramid in terms of reputation, quality and price, with the Polish Hill now sitting around $50 per bottle.

There are several producers who are challenging the quality of Grosset. Interestingly, several of them come from the Great Southern region of Western Australia (including Mt Barker, Denmark, Frankland River and Porongorups).

Cherubino instantly comes to mind, however in this tasting, it was the turn of Singlefile to shine.

The 2016 Mt Barker Riesling is nothing short of spectacular. A great wine that is a bargain at $30. Like the Polish Hill, this is delightful in its youth, yet sure to age well for a decade or more.

Straight out of the bottle, the 2016 Great Southern Riesling is a little more obvious and approachable, providing a lovely contrast to the delicacy of the wine from Mt Barker. Excellent buying at $25.

There are similarities here to the way Grosset’s Springvale compares to the Polish HiIl.

The Vickery is another noteworthy wine, with the legendary John Vickery sharing his expertise (and name) with a new generation of winemakers. Great drinking.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Riesling – Mt Barker – Pearse Vineyard – 2016 (18.7pts – $30). A delicate floral bouquet with citrus, talc and musk characters. The palate has latent power, and is long, supple, subtle and fine, with brilliant mouth-feel. A superb wine now, or any time over the next 15 years.

Vickery – Riesling – Eden Valley – 2016 (18 – 18.5pts – $26). Straight out of the bottle, this is approachable and user friendly. With plenty of air, the inherent quality shines. A fantastic wine that has classic Clare Valley characters, along with a touch of green pear. So very drinkable, yet age-worthy.

Singlefile – Riesling – Great Southern – 2016 (18pts – $25). The palest of yellow colours. Floral fruit with sherbet and musk notes. The palate is vibrant, fruit driven and very long, with the acid perfectly balanced. The finish is near seamless and very satisfying. A lovely wine that is good to go any time over the next ten years.

Swinney – Riesling – Tirra Lira – 2016 (17.9). Relatively closed initially, but there is no denying the quality. This is both supple and subtle, with fresh acidity and a steely minerality, making for a great food wine. An excellent effort that will benefit from a few years in bottle.

Shiraz – October New Release

Barry Weinman: 1^st October 2016

The team at Xanadu continue to be in top form. This time it was a brilliant value Shiraz under the Exmoor label (new to me) that grabbed the panel’s attention.

Leeuwin Estate and Mount Langi Ghiran also provided great value drinks.

Unfortunately, the Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier was badly cork tainted. I continue to be surprised that wineries persist with using natural cork, when there are more reliable alternatives available. The Diam cork, for example, still gives the “romance” of pulling the cork, but is guaranteed to be taint-free. Then of course there are screw caps…

Reviewed

Izway – Shiraz – Bruce – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). Really interesting nose: Liquorice, spice, plum and inky fruit. This is restrained and taut, needing years for the fruit to open up. Long, fine tannins. An impressive, concentrated Shiraz.

Wynns – Shiraz – Black Label – 2013 (18.2pts). I like this wine a lot. Cool climate Shiraz that is ripe and focussed. There are red berry notes over earthy, textural components. Think plum, transitioning to blueberry. Texturing, tight knot oak and slightly dusty tannins close the fruit down initially. A very smart wine worthy of 10yrs in the cellar.

Xanadu – Shiraz – Exmoor – 2013 (18pts – $18). Lovely cooler region fruit, with white pepper and spice. On the palate the fruit is perfectly ripe and presents beautifully, the supple oak and dusty tannins adding depth and texture, without taking the gloss off the silky fruit. Near seamless, the acidity comes through on the close adding life. This wine is a bargain and will drink well any time over the next 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.9pts). This wine really stands out. Rich fruit and earthy notes, yet balanced, with excellent structure and mo uth-feel. Fine tannins and oak build, adding depth and texture. Excellent value.

Mount Langi Ghiran – Shiraz – Billi Billi – 2013 (17.8pts). Quite dense and savoury fruit that is open and accessible. The tannins kick in at the end, leaving the finish drier than the Sahara dessert. Everything in place, this needs a hearty stew to bring out its best. Should be good value too.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Margaret River – 2015 (17.5pts). Another excellent effort from Sandalford. Menthol, herbal notes and spicy white pepper on the nose. The palate is relatively forward with the fruit the main focus. The tannins, acid and oak build on the finish. A good drinking mid-price red that could also cope with a few years in the cellar.

Giant Steps no longer an Innocent Bystander!

Barry Weinman: 14^th September 2015

The first vintage at Giant Steps was made by Steve Flamsteed back in 2003, and he has been making the wines ever since. The Innocent Bystander label was established as a second brand to give the winery critical volume, given the limited production of the top wines.

Innocent Bystanders has been a runaway success, with production rapidly increasing to the point where the winery is now at full capacity, leading to production being expanded off-site. The success is such, that there is still demand to justify increasing production further. Moscato production alone is estimated to be at 60,000 cases.

Following an opportune approach from Brown Brothers, the decision was made to sell off Innocent Bystanders, to allow the opportunity to rationalise and focus on Giant Steps. The aim is to organically grow Giant Steps with the introduction of the Yarra Valley range sitting below the single vineyard wines.

A second label is being introduced (Wild Run) to provide an everyday quaff for cellar door customers.

Whilst the Single Vineyard wines have received critical acclaim for a number of years, I was interested to see how the Yarra Valley range stacked up. So it was great to sit down with Steve over a quick lunch and look through some of the wines.

For me, the Pinot and Chardonnay were the standouts. Excellent wines that are available at a fair price.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so points are only an indication.

Reviewed

Giants Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2015 (18.5pts – $45). Fine and creamy, with lemon, minerals, stone fruit, vanilla and spice. The palate is very long, rich and textured, yet remains remarkably fine and seamless. Made from the P58 clone of Chardonnay, off 26 y/o vines, the vineyard leased since 2005.

Giants Steps – Chardonnay – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18pts – $35). A touch broader and more open than the Tarraford. The palate is more linear, with taut, lemony acid adding drive and length. The texture builds in the glass. Does not have quite the same depth as the Tarraford initially, but this should build nicely in the bottle.

Giants Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2015 (18.5+pts – $50). Pretty floral fruit, with cherry and raspberry characters. The palate is superb, with silky texture, supple mouth-feel and great length and depth. Candied notes add interest, as does a touch of toast from the oak. (60% whole bunch fermented).

Giants Steps – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $35). This wine was quite closed on the nose initially, whilst the palate showed earthy notes, with cherry fruit and texturing oak. The mouth-feel however was a highlight. With air, this transformed. The pretty berry fruit really opened up on both the nose and palate, and was quite delicious. This will be great with an hour or two in a decanter, or a couple of years in the cellar.

Giants Steps – Shiraz – Syrah – 2015 (17.7pts – $35). This has really pretty fruit that is perfumed, floral and spicy. Lovely mouth-feel, with vibrant fruit giving way to savoury, earthy flavours. An excellent food wine, as the acidity drives the finish.

Giants Steps – Merlot – 2015 (17.5pts $35). From the Sexton vineyard. This is a ripping drink. The fresh, pretty berry fruit is complemented by elegant tannins and fine acidity. Why wait?

New Release

Barry Weinman: 21^st August 2016

Angove is one of the largest landholders in McLaren Vale, with over 400 acres of vineyards. Surprisingly, over 30% of the vineyards are certified organic, with the rest of the vineyards in the process of being converted.

This must make Angove one of the largest (if not the largest) producers of organic grapes in Australia. The outcome is a range of very smart wines under the “Organic” label. Here, it was the turn of the Shiraz/Cabernet to shine. An excellent effort that represents great drinking given that it can be picked up for $14 or less!

Shingleback have released yet another great value Shiraz under the Red Knot label.

Whilst a little more expensive, the wines from Wolf Blass (Grey Label), Claymore (GSM) and Shingleback (The Gate) really stood out. These are wines that can be enjoyed now, yet will comfortably cellar for a decade. They also represent value in their own way.

At the top end, watch out for the D-Block Reserve wines from Shingleback. These are statement wines that exude class and refinement. Great intensity and power, yet with a degree of elegance that is disarming. Bravo!

Reviewed – White

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2015 (17.7pts). Fresh aromatics with tropical and herbal notes. Grassy, herbaceous fruit on the palate with plenty of zesty acidity, decent texture and great mouth-feel. Long and refreshing, this will be great served chilled in the warmer months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Miamup – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). More tropical fruit here along with crunchy green pear. Light and fresh, with gentle aromatics and a soft, supple mouth-feel aided perhaps by a touch of barrel fermentation. Lemony fruit flavours linger. Very easy to drink.

Reviewed – Cabernet

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.6pts – $55). Impenetrable colour. Very concentrated fruit with blackcurrant and a touch of cassis. The palate is remarkably restrained, with the fruit the primary focus. That said, the quality oak and polished tannins build on what is a very long finish. Much like Penfolds 707, this is more refined, supple and elegant than might be expected, especially given the region’s reputation for Shiraz.

Claymore Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – O – Bittersweet Symphony – 2014 (17.5pts – $25). Menthol and spice, along with dense blackcurrant fruit. Despite being closed, this shows excellent balance, with the mouth-feel aided by very fine tannins and oak. Long, this needs 10 years, but drinking well now. A fine wine.

Reviewed – Shiraz and Blends

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.7pts – $55). Whilst the fruit on the nose has lovely sweet berry characters, there is a savoury component that really adds interest. Tremendous depth and intensity of fruit, prodigious length of flavours, latent power and gravelly tannins. Liquorice, spice, souring acidity add interest, while the oak sits comfortably with the fruit. Will live for decades (cork permitting) but will also do justice to the finest steak you can get your hands on.

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Grey Label – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). A rich and textured wine, with spicy, almost inky fruit. The fruit here is powerful and taut, with fine acidity and tannins shutting down the palate somewhat. The oak adds depth, but is not intrusive. A fine wine that will easily live for 20 years. Great value at under $35/bottle.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2012 (18.5pts – $35). Vanilla, coffee, cinnamon, mint and just a touch of menthol, over sweet, ripe fruit. The palate is bright, with the fruit carrying the length of the palate. The acidity builds as do the fine, chalky tannins. A lovely wine, though 5 – 10 years is required for it to reach its best. 9 Gold Medals.

Saltram – Shiraz – The Journal – 2010 (18.5+pts – $150). From 100 year old vines, this is fragrant, perfumed and pretty, with red berries and cherry fruit. Mint, along with a delicious streak of liquorice on the palate adds depth. A complex, ripe and skilfully crafted wine with no rough edges. Will live for decades if you are patient.

Claymore Wines – GSM – You’ll Never Walk Alone – 2015 (18.3pts – $20). Quality fruit. Fennel seed, cinnamon, vanilla seed and spice, leading to a palate that is supple, fine and elegant. The mouth-feel and balance are highlights. Near seamless, with great length. A supple, great value wine that can be enjoyed over the next decade.

Patritti – Shiraz – Lot 3 – Single Vineyard – 2013 (18.2pts – $30). Intense and powerful, this has ripe fruit with chocolate and coffee aromas, typical of McLaren Vale. The palate is chewy and textured, the tannins dominating the fruit somewhat, leading to a drying finish. A BIG wine that needs years or a decent steak.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2014 (18pts). Plum, mulberry, cherry, silky spice. A super wine with great length. The flavours build, and I like the balance here; this is a wine with no rough edges, making for a great drink. Should also age well.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2015 (17.9pts – $16). Pretty fruit on both the nose and palate with a hint of white pepper. Medium bodied, vibrant, succulent and juicy. A ripper of a wine that will be perfect with a bowl of pasta and is ready to go right now. A bargain!

Aravina Estate – Shiraz/Tempranillo – The A Collection – 2014 (17.8pts – $23). An unusual blend for Margaret River, this has concentrated, mid weight fruit. Opens with red berries, and plum notes, over cedar, spice and talc like tannins that coat the tongue and suppress the fruit somewhat. Good oak/acid balance. A very good wine that will happily take 5 years in the cellar.Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2015 (17.6pts – $15). Vibrant, lively, fresh red berries with cherry, licorice and subtle spice. No obvious oak influences, yet the tannins frame the fruit nicely. An excellent drinking everyday red that will be just as happy on its own as with a lamb roast. Another great value wine under this label.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.5pts – $25). Lighter style, focusing on savoury rather than overt sweet fruit. That said, the fruit quality is very good, as are the length and mouth-feel. A youthful, high quality wine that will provide excellent drinking over the next 5 years.

Plantaganet – Shiraz – 3 Lions – 2014 (17pts – $25). Really plummy fruit on the nose. The palate is bright and fresh, with little in the way of oak. Very fine tannins add depth, but allow the fruit to shine. This is a riper, less complicated st