Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Thorn-Clarke

 

Thorn-Clarke

Barry Weinman: 5th March 2016

David and Cheryl Clarke bought and planted the first parcel of land for what is now Thorne-Clarke wines in 1987. Cheryl’s family (The Thorn’s) has grown grapes in the Barossa since the 1870s and, thanks to a vineyard owned by Cheryl’s dad (Ron Thorn), the winery has access to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world.

In addition to the two Barossa Valley vineyards, there are two in the Eden Valley. One is focussed on red grapes (Milton Park) and the other white grapes (Mt Crawford).

Reviewed

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Sandpiper – 2015 (17.5). Floral notes and a touch of perfume, with lanolin highlights. The palate is round and supple, with musk and passionfruit over zesty lemon. Good length and fine acid and structure to close. A good drink. (RRP $19, but you can pick this up for around $15).sandpiper-riesling

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Eden Trail – 2015 (18). A pretty nose, with lovely floral notes and perfume. The palate is fine and elegant, with the structure and mouth-feel the key features. The gentle fruit sits well against this, making this a good drink now, but also ensuring that the wine will gain depth and presence in the bottle for many years. (RRP $24).Eden Trail Riesling_small

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2014 (17.5). (RRP $19). Sweet fruit that is attractive and succulent, with plum, licorice and a touch of cedar. The palate has fresh berry fruit, a touch of spice and is very gluggable. Delicious early consumption wine from the Barossasandpiper-shiraz

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Eden Trail – 2014 (18). This has plum, spice and cherry fruit. The ripe fruit on the palate has excellent balance. The structure is quite silky, yet there is enough tannins and acid to keep the balance and allow for medium term aging. The length is commendable, with the oak framing the fruit nicely. Very approachable now, this was still looking good several days later. (RRP $28).Eden Trail Shiraz_small

New Release

New Release

Barry Weinman: 23rd October 2015

Six Hundred Chardonnay

Cumulus – Chardonnay – Six Hundred Above – 2013 (17.7). Initially, there is subtle stone fruit on both the nose and palate. There is excellent length, and the fruit weight builds with air, complemented by supple oak. This is refined and elegant, allowing for consumption now or in five years. (RRP $32).

Mount Horrocks – Riesling – Corton Cut – 2015 (17.8). (RRP $ 35). Musk and rose petal to open, with pear skin and sherbet highlights. Long and intense, the balance here is the key. The fine acidity is well matched to the sweetness, leaving the finish fresh and alive. Try it with a crème brûlée or simply poached fruit.

The Yard – Riesling – Botrytis – 2013 (17.5). Golden colour. Intense fruit on both the nose and palate, with refreshing acidity to balance the sweetness. This is viscous and luscious, with decent length and mouth-feel. A crowd-pleasing wine that will accompany salted caramel ice-cream with aplomb.

Moss Wood – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – Botrytis – 2012 (17). Intense apricot stone fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and quite intense, with hints of almond. Not overly complex, but a decent drink.

New Release Wines – August 2015

New Release Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 28th August 2015

This week, the panel looked through a number of interesting wines, spanning several tastings. Of the 50 wines tasted, the ones reviewed here stood out for a number of reasons.

Wines like the Bird in Hand Chardonnay shone for their sheer quality. The Woodlands Pinot Noir was a surprise packet from Margaret River, whilst the La Violetta Riesling pushed winemaking boundaries, resulting in a beautifully complex and savoury wine.

Riesling2015 das Sakrileg

La Violetta – Riesling – das Sakrileg – 2014 (18). Well defined Riesling characters, with subtle lime juice and musk characters over fragrant pear notes. On the palate, the fruit is balanced by a touch of nuttiness to close, with gentle phenolic richness (aided by barrel fermentation) adding texture. A smart wine that will be great now, or any time over the next 10 years. (RRP $32).

Knappstein – Riesling – Clare Valley – 2014 (17.5). Quite complex, with a blend of citrus aromas and mineral notes. A touch of phenolic richness comes through on the nose and palate. Textural, the mouth-feel is excellent and there is decent length and persistence. Good now, or in 5 years. (RRP $20).

Chardonnay

Bird in Hand – Chardonnay – Adelaide Hills – 2014 ($18.5). Bright fruit with some creamy notes on the nose. The palate is creamy and nicely textured. The nutty characters meld with stone fruit and citrus into a lovely, complete wine. Refined, elegant and long, the fruit persists for some time. Mineral characters build on the finish. Delicious! (RRP $42).2015 Bird in Hand Chardonnay 2

Morlet – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.8). Well made and approachable, yet with depth to the fruit. Initially, the fruit is quite muted, but this really builds on the finish, complemented by creamy oak that adds a touch of toasty goodness to the close. Great drinking and unpretentious.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2014 (17.5 – 18) (RRP $27). Opens with fresh pineapple, grapefruit and lemon peel, though this is quite lean and taut. Decent length, with quality oak adding to the mouth-feel. Needs a few years, and will probably get higher marks in the future.

Fifth Estate – Chardonnay – Krugers Block – 2011 (17.5). Almost golden in colour. Clear varietal definition on the nose, with some minerality to the peach like fruit. The palate is creamy, with a touch of toast courtesy of the oak adding support to the medium weight fruit. Not overly dense, but a good drink.

Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2011 (18). Quite closed and restrained on the nose. The palate has fresh fruit over complex forest floor notes. Cherry, strawberry and plum all come to mind. Long and refined finish, with just a touch of grilled meat on the close. Supple smoky notes from the oak add interest. Very good now or in 5 years. Another good wine from this producer.

Woodlands – Pinot Noir – Reserve De La Cave – 2013 (18). (N/A). Lighter colour, tending to orange on the rim. Quite dense and complex fruit on the nose. The mouth-feel is a highlight, with texture and depth to the fruit. The oak rounds out the finish, with a touch of leather/earthiness to add interest. A decent drinking Pinot of some charm. A surprise package.

Dawson and James – Pinot Noir – D – 2011 (17.8). Mid red colour. Seductive, sensuous nose with hints of strawberry and fennel. The palate is rich and textured, with supple fruit, gentle acid and fine tannins. A touch of stalkiness to close keeps the palate fresh, but this is ideal for immediate consumption.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series White Wines

Barry Weinman: August 23rd 2015

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series Whites Wines

Leeuwin Estate is rightly famous for their Art Series Chardonnay. This is a wine of great quality that has set the benchmark for Australian Chardonnays for many years. As a result, it is easy to pay only scant attention to the rest of the wines in their portfolio. That would, however, be a mistake…

The current release of whites offers broad appeal. Of particular note is the Siblings SBS. This is a really interesting example, yet is made in an approachable, early drinking style, and at an affordable price.

Then there is the 2012 Art Series Chardonnay. Another spectacular wine under this label and a bargain when compared to other great wines of the world.2015 Leeuwin Estate Whites

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Riesling – Art Series – 2014 (17.5). (RRP $22). A notably different profile to the Rieslings from Clare and the Great Southern. Very pale in the glass. The nose and palate are restrained, tight and very steely. In the mouth there is bracing acidity to close. This is a neutral, food friendly style now, but is sure to blossom with 10 years in the bottle.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2014 (17.6). (RRP $23) Cut grass, fresh herbs and asparagus on the nose with tropical hints. The palate is quite complex, with grassy, savoury notes over a core of ripe cool climate fruit characters. Partial barrel ferment/lees stirring adds depth without adding overt flavours. There is just the right amount of residual sugar to balance the fresh acidity, making this an excellent drink now. Who needs food?!

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2014 (17.5 – 18). (RRP $32). Wonderful floral, perfumed fruit on the nose. The palate is quite dry and savoury, with delicate, precise fruit set against a textural background aided by barrel ferment characters. Restrained, with fine though plentiful acidity, this will be a joy to drink with seared scallops now, or on its own in a year or two.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude Vineyards – 2014 (17). (RRP $34). Very pale colour. Lively and fresh, with peach and tropical fruit characters and zesty acidity. Excellent early drinking and a good alternative to NZ SB. A satisfying drink that will gain complexity with a year or two in bottle.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2012 (18.7+). (RRP $94). Relatively pale hue. The nose is fantastic! Complex, yet restrained, with lovely stone fruit notes. The palate is rich and textured, with citrus and white peach, over pineapple acidity. Very long and persistent, yet the intense fruit possesses a degree of restraint. The fine fruit and creamy oak meld into a seamless package. This is drinking very well now, but will reward after a few years in the cellar. Superb!

Ferngrove – Orchid Range – 2012 Reds

Ferngrove – Orchid Range – 2012 Reds

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

12th August 2015

In my article last year on Ferngrove, I commented that the quality of the wines continued to be very good under the new Chinese owners: https://finewineclub.com.au/2014/06/12/ferngrove-june-2014/

Fast-forward 12 months, and it’s now time to review the latest (2012) reds released under the Orchid range. I am pleased to say that the wines are as good (if not better) than 2011, with the Cabernet, in particular, showing very strongly.

Stylistically, it is important to note that Kim Horton and the team have made serious wines here. They are approachable now, but will be at their best with 5 – 10 years in the cellar. For wines of this quality, the $32 RRP seems very reasonable.

ReviewedFerngrove Majestic 2012

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2012 (18 – 18.5). Very deep smelling, with menthol, blackcurrant and lovely spice-like aromas. Dark fruits feature on the palate, complemented by texturing tannins and oak on a finish that is quite chewy. This is really closed and tight, though the length of flavours is commendable. The fruit quality is excellent, but this needs years to reach its peak. The fruit really opened up with a couple of days in the bottle. (RRP $32).

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2012 (17.5+). Plump, succulent fruit with licorice, spice and cedar notes. The palate is fresh, with the refined fruit giving way to tar, chocolate and spice flavours. The savoury tannins and oak add to the finish. Refined and a touch linear now, this will flesh out with a few years in the bottle. (RRP $32).

Ferngrove – Shiraz – Dragon – 2012 (18). Beautiful, elegant and almost delicate fruit on both the nose and palate. Very long, the finish is fine and near seamless. With an almost Burgundian structure, this will fill out and build across the palate with time in the bottle. With plenty of air, this develops red fruits and licorice, with savoury plum notes. Will soften in time. (RRP $32).

 

Flowstone Wines– New Release – July 2015

9th July 2015

Reviewed by Barry WeinmanSB

Stuart Pym at Flowstone wines has a stated aim of releasing his wines with a degree of bottle age to improve the drinkability and accessibility of the wines on release. He also has an aim of limiting production to only 1200 cases per year. This has presented him with the enviable challenge of trying to allocate stock, but still retain enough to supply restaurants who want to maintain a consistent wine list.

For the 2015 vintage, a dedicated winery opened adjacent to Flowstone’s vineyards in Forrest Grove. This will give Stuart even greater control over the winemaking process. These are carefully crafted wines, of high standard, so the future looks very promising indeed.

I tasted the wines with Stuart, therefore no scores are given. The quality of the wines was, however, excellent, and my picks are below.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Sauvignon Blanc – 2013. This has a really complex nose showing gooseberry, flint, struck match and lees work. The palate is rich and textured, with quality lemony fruit. Almost chewy, the finish is long and fine, with linear acidity and a touch of minerality. The oak is mainly for texture (fermented in one new 600l barrel with 47mm staves, the rest old). Good drinking. (RRP $32).

Flowstone – Chardonnay – 2012. Complex and rich, with struck match, minerality and barrel ferment notes. That said, there is a core of ripe fruit characters. This spends 12 months in high-quality French oak barrels, of which 20% are new. The wine goes though 100% malo-lactic fermentation which adds richness, yet the wine retains life. Excellent current drinking, but will age for a few years if that is your preference. (RRP $36).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon/Touriga – 2011. A 70%/30% blend. Initially, this is closed and tight on both the nose and the palate. The quality fruit is evident, but it needs years to evolve. Shows mint and eucalypt from the Cabernet, whilst the Touriga adds weight and depth to the finish. Tannins and oak keep fruit in check, but do not dominate. (2 years in oak, 20% new). Very long, this ideally needs 5 – 10yrs to start hitting its straps. (RRP $36).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – Queen of the Earth – 2011. Lovely, classic Margaret River nose, with gentle eucalypt and mint over blackcurrant fruit. Continues on the palate, with dense fruit and fine, savoury tannins. Subtle oak to close adds depth (3 years in new oak). A lovely wine with great length and mouth-feel (RRP $75 – 99 Dozen made).

Bargain Winter Reds – May 2015

17th May 2015

As the cold weather approaches, my thoughts turn to hearty casseroles, fragrant curries and spaghetti in all its forms. There is nothing better to wash down a delicious midweek meal than a good bottle of red that will not break the bank.

Whilst there are numerous wines that fit this bill, the wines recommended below stand out as they are affordable AND delicious.

Reviewed

La Vieille Ferme – Rhone Blend – Ventoux – 2013 (17.5+). A finer, more restrained style, with savoury characters over currants, plum and floral berry notes. There is a lick of aniseed to close. Fine tannins frame the fruit nicely, with little in the way of oak to get in the way. Excellent balance and texture, with souring acidity adding to the long finish. Succulent, easy drinking, and great value! Made by the Perrin family. (RRP $18).

Shingleback – Shiraz – Vin Vale – 2013 (17.3). Plush and succulent fruit on the nose. Not dense or pretentious: a delicious quaff. The palate is soft, supple and has decent tannin structure to keep the fruit in check. Exclusive to 1st Choice and Liquorland (RRP $15).

Whiz Bang – Shiraz – 2014 (17). Aromas of chocolate and spice, with hints of fruitcake. Licorice- infused fruit on the palate, with decent texture. Not overly concentrated, but mouth-filling and a joy to drink. (RRP $16).

De Bortoli – Sangiovese – Bella Riva – 2012 (17). Savoury fruit on the nose, with blueberry and spice notes. The palate is defined by the acid/tannin structure, which confers length and drive. Only mid weight, but a good drink

Sittella Winery

New meets Old

May 2015

Sittella, situated in the Swan Valley on the outskirts of Perth, is owned and run by the Berns family. The winery was built in 1997, with the cellar door and restaurant opening the following year.

Fruit is primarily sourced from the family’s vineyards in the Swan Valley and Margaret River, supplemented by purchased fruit from these regions as well as Frankland.

Senior winemaker Colby Quirk is ably assisted by the next generation of the Berns family – Yuri. The focus here is clearly on quality. 40% of production is sparkling wine, with the sparkling Chenin Blanc being the winery’s largest volume wine.

The quality focus is not only in the vineyard, but also in the winery. The sparkling wines are made in the traditional method (secondary fermentation in bottle), and are fairly dry in style (all under 10gm/l residual sugar). All fermentation tanks are refrigerated and the winery has gyro-pallets installed to assist with the riddling of the sparkling wines prior to disgorgement (they are one of only a few facilities in WA that are able to produce quality sparkling wines in quantity).

Whilst the focus is on the sparkling wines, it is the Chardonnays that shone in this tasting. That said, their yet to be released Coffee Rock Shiraz from 2013 was the most interesting wine that I tried. Whilst different in style to Faber’s Shiraz for example, it is an excellent illustration of what the Swan Valley can do with this most versatile variety.

Reviewed

Sittella – Chenin Blanc – NV (NR). Made entirely from Swan Valley fruit, even the entry level offering has low dosage (less than 10g/l of residual sugar) and is made in the traditional method. It is the vibrant, floral fruit that is the feature here. Great Sunday afternoon wine. (RRP $24).

Sittella – Chardonnay – Blanc de Blanc – NV (17-17.5). Refined and elegant nose, with white peach and nectarine. The palate is dry and restrained, with the taut chardonnay fruit coming to the fore, with lemon-like acidity to close. Long and fine, this is a serious effort. Fruit from Pemberton. (RRP $29).

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18+). Melon, peach and grapefruit on the nose, with supple oak. Powerful, complex and worked, yet refined and with a degree of restraint on the finish. This is youthful and fresh, with lemony acid to close. Long and supple, but will be even better in a year or two. Not yet released.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2013 (18). Tighter and more refined than the 2014, but still with high quality fruit apparent. A modern iteration of Chardonnay, this needs a few years to open up and build. With air; flint, minerals, spice notes evolve. The taut oak is apparent, but in no way overt. The textural components build and are a highlight. Value for money. (RRP $29).

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (17.2). Decent concentration of fruit here, though it is in the cooler spectrum, with mint and herbal notes. The palate is chewy and dense, with fine tannins from the fruit and oak. The textured finish is a treat. Remarkably approachable now, but will live for years. (Available for under $12 from the cellar door!)

Sittella – Shiraz/Grenache/Tempranillo – 2014 (17.3). Fleshy, ripe and delicious, I like this. Decent fruit quality in a riper style. Long and mouth-filling, what this lacks in elegance, it makes up for in richness. Good balance to close. (RRP $18).

Sittella – Shiraz – Coffee Rock – 2013 (18). Chocolate, mint, spice and aniseed all vie for attention on the nose. The palate is balanced, textured, refined and very long. The tannins are polished and supple. Succulent fruit, but will live for years, courtesy of the acid balance. Good now, but will be even better in a few years. This comes from old vines, grown in coffee rock in the Swan Valley. Despite being 15.5% alc, this shows no signs of being hot in the mouth.

Aromatic Whites – Current Release – May 2014

Reviewed: May 18th 2014

There was an eclectic collection of wines at this tasting which presented some significant challenges. Not knowing the variety, or even the style avoided any preconceptions, but it also meant that there were some style clashes. A bone-dry riesling is always going to be difficult to taste after an SSB that has a degree of residual sugar.

That said, the two rieslings mentioned are well worth a look.

Reviewed

Willoughby Park – Riesling – Ironrock – 2013 (18). Restrained and taut, with steely minerality. This continues on the palate, with lovely lime juice and superb acidity that carries the finish. Slightly dumb on the mid palate, but with air this became wonderfully fragrant. Ideally this needs a few years to flesh out, but is a superb wine.

Zarephath – Riesling – 2013 (17.5 – 18). Very pale colour. Fresh and floral, with lime and lemon juice notes. The palate has fresh acidity, yet is soft, supple and quite delicious. A sublime wine with excellent length and a near seamless finish.

Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2013 ( 17.5). Initially quite neutral on the nose. The palate has barrel ferment and lees characters over quality fruit. Think pineapple and nectarine. Quite a serious wine that has been well handled. The finish is almost chewy and textured, but the lemony fruit and crisp acidity makes for an excellent wine.

Stella Bella – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Skuttlebutt – 2013 (17). A very drinkable wine here. This is characterised by lovely mouth-feel and texture. Excellent length with focused acidity to balance the fruit on the drying finish. An excellent wine with, or without food.

Millbrook – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Barking Owl – 2013 (17). I like the balance here. Floral fruit and citrus blossom is set against a background of minerals and flinty acidity. Good length, the touch of phenolic grip adds to the mouth-feel and finish.

Yilgarnia – Semillon – 2013 (17). Quite a smart wine that has fresh, vibrant fruit set against complex minerality. There is depth and presence here. This is not a quaffing wine. The complex array of flavours include lemon-like fruit and just a hint of minerals.

Vasse Felix

Reviewed: 14th May 2014

Situated in the Willyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, Vasse Felix can lay claim to being the oldest producer of wines in this prestigious region. Established in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, the first release was the 1972 vintage.

Since then, the winery has gone from strength to strength as the range has been refined and stratified. The focus is now on three distinct pillars, Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, Chardonnay and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends. A consistent approach to stratification is also being gradually adopted.

At the top of the quality tree is the Heytesbury, (gold peregrine on the label). Currently, this is limited to the Cabernet and the Chardonnay. That said, Virginia Willcock and the team are working towards a Heytesbury SSB. A small batch was released from the 2011 vintage and the wine produced in 2013 is excellent. Time will tell if this will end up under the Heytesbury label.

Sitting just below this, from a quality perspective, is the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. These are set to be joined by a chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. (These wines have the burgundy coloured peregrine on the label and a burgundy capsule). The Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and “standard” Chardonnay sit below this. These wines will be re-labelled Filius from the next vintage to avoid confusion.

Finally, there is the Classic range with a Dry White and a Dry Red.

I rate Vasse Felix in the top five wineries in the region. Their wines are consistently outstanding. If you ask nicely, they may even give you a 20% discount for dozen lots at the cellar door, which makes the wines extraordinary value.

A special thanks must go to Francine and the team at Vasse Felix for making our visit so enjoyable.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013. Fragrant and complex with lovely lemon and lanolin notes. The grassy notes come out with air. Whilst fresh and lively, there is an undertone of complexity that comes from the 19% of fruit that was fermented in new oak. A small portion was also fermented on skins which helps to add depth to the palate.

Vasse Felix – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – “White Cap” – 2012. Made in a similar way to white Bordeaux: All fruit was fermented/aged in new oak for nine months with a further six months in older oak. 60% Semillon, a portion of the SB was fermented on skins. This is a powerful wine that is creamy and textured, with lemon curd, lanolin, minerals and a touch of struck match/flintiness. That said, this is a fine wine that will take some years in the bottle. Destined to become Heytesbury?

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2012. A very fine and delicate style that has lovely, peach-like stone fruit aromas. The palate is quite linear at present, reflecting the youthful nature of this wine. The limey acid provides excellent drive on the finish. Matured in a mix of new, one and two year old oak, though this is just a whisper on the finish. Really needs a year or two to fill out and open up. (Will be labelled Filius from 2013).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Burgundy Capsule – 2013. Very tight and restrained, with bright fruit and refreshing acidity. The palate is creamy, though the fruit is shy at present. The finish is near seamless, with supple oak adding depth and mouth-feel. Needs a few years, but will be worth the wait. Soon to be released, this is destined to be the first “burgundy capsuled” chardonnay.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2012. Very powerful nose blending stone fruit, pineapple and complex winemaker’s inputs (struck match minerality and creamy barrel ferment and lees aromas). The powerful fruit continues on a palate that is complex, balanced and very long. Seamless palate transition, with the texture really building on the close. A superb effort that retains freshness and poise. Lovely now, but better in a few years.

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2012. Always a delight to drink as this wine balances approachable fruit characters with a finish that is supple, textural and long. Destined to be the last semillon made by Vasse Felix as the fruit used in this wine will be used in the SSB going forward.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011. An excellent expression of this style, showing perfumed fruit with hints of violet and summer berries. The palate adds hints of leather, spice and earthy notes to the red fruits, with herbal notes and fine, supple tannins to close. Like many wines made from this blend in the region, this is made in a more approachable style. (Will be labelled Filius in future years).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011. Classic minty, blackcurrant fruit on the nose over spice and cedary oak. The palate is silky and very long, though this needs years to reach its peak. A very fine wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2011. The fruit and winemaking here is nothing short of spectacular. The nose is filled with fragrant fruit over supple savoury/spicy notes. This is a very complex wine. The palate is breathtaking, displaying fruit that is very powerful, yet refined and very elegant. The chewy, structural notes build on a finish that is silky, balanced and very long. An iron fist in a velvet glove. A brilliant wine that will comfortably take 20 years in the cellar.