Hosted by David Clarke from Sommeliers Australia.

Reviewed: 20 November 2012

For a country that has a reputation for producing high quality and distinctive wines, the number of South African wines that make it on to the Australian Market is very small. Subsequently, my exposure to these wines is very limited. When presented with the opportunity to try 18 high quality wines, I hopped straight on a plane to Sydney to attend this tasting. The wines were selected on the basis of quality and style.

My first impressions are that there are some very high quality wines being made and they can represent excellent value in South Africa. It remains to be seen how competitive the pricing will be if the wines ever make it to Australia.

When it comes to style, based on this limited sample, there seems to be a clear division between the very ripe, high oak styles and the modern, fresh and leaner examples. My preference, clearly, was for the latter.

Despite my preconceptions, Pinotage makes up less than 10% of the wines produced in South Africa. Cork issues prevented me from reviewing any here.

A special thanks to Fix St James for hosting the tasting.

Reviewed

David Nieuwoudt – Semillon – Ghost Corner – 2010 (17). From Elim. Very complex nose that has minerals, struck match and really grassy, herbaceous fruit. There is creamy lees over grassy fruit on the palate. Long, the lemony acid really drives the finish. A complex wine of some charm.

Ataraxia – Sauvignon Blanc (+Semillon) – 2012 (16.8). From Western Cape. Clean, fresh nose with tropical fruit over lanolin, lantana and musk. The finish is uncomplicated and refreshing with a touch of creaminess to close. Drink up any warm afternoon.

Cape Point Vineyards – Sauvignon Blanc – Reserve – 2010 (17.2). From Cape Point. Some funky fruit notes that blow off very quickly to reveal complex, oak influenced, tropical fruit and a touch of developing honey. This has lees and barrel ferment notes on the nose and palate that contribute to the complex and long finish. Quite gentle and approachable, this would be easy to pair with seafood.

Mullineux – Chenin Blanc/Clairette Blanc/Viognier – 2011 (17 – 17.5). From Swartland. Round and rich, the colour and nose is quite golden. The nose is all about minerals and spice. Honeyed and textured, the finish is quite lean and has chalky texture on the close. Quite a neutral/oxidative style that places texture and mouth-feel ahead of primary fruit. Produced in old oak barrels which helps build the texture. Antipasto would pair with this very well.

Beaumont – Chenin Blanc – Hope Marguerite – 2011 (16.8). From Bot River. Quite subdued initially, this has lemon and zesty fruit. The palate has sweet fruit and is round and generous. Quite viscous, the hint of residual sugar really fleshes out the middle palate. There is citrus fruit on the close with a touch of sherbet and spice. Quite long and very easy to drink.

Ken Forrester Wines – Chenin Blanc – FMC – 2010 (17.8). From Stellenbosch. A complex nose that combines winemaker’s inputs with citrus and cloves. The palate is rich, dense and textured. The fruit and the oak combine with the honeyed fruit and a touch of sugar to confer great length and depth of flavour. Despite the richness, the lovely acid backbone gives this wine life. A powerful wine that has some similarities with Vouvray. There is a component of Botrytis and the wine spends a year in new 400l oak. (14% alc, 6gm/l residual sugar). Definitely a wine to try if you get the chance.

Hamilton Russell Vineyards – Chardonnay – 2011 (18+). From Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. Fresh and lively stone-fruit on the nose, with some nutty fruit and mineral characters. The palate has lemon and creamy barrel ferment/lees texture. The acid carries the fruit right to the close and ensures that this will age well. The oak has been superbly handled and all components are in place, this just needs a few years to blossom. 13% alcohol.

Klein Constantia – Muscat de Frontignan – Vin de Constance – 2007 (18.5). From Constantia. One of the most famous wines in history, once more highly priced than the great Bordeauxs. Gorgeous nose that shows honey and spice, with lovely apricot/dried apricot fruit and subtle nutty aromas. Whilst there is tremendous power to the apricot fruit, there is enough acidity to complement the viscous mouth-feel. Bitter almond and apricot kernel apparent on the close with outstanding length. The sweetness is the perfect counterpart to the rich fruit. I found myself almost chewing the wine more than a minute after the last sip was swallowed.

Paul Cluver – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17+). From Elgin. Dense dark fruits here. Black cherry and firm oak on both the nose and the palate with a touch of reductive notes now. This is austere, tart and very long. An age-worthy wine that will blossom in 10 years, but is firm right now.

Bouchard Finlayson – Sangiovese/Pinot Noir/Nebbiolo/Mouvedre/Barbera/Shiraz – Hannibal – 2010 (17). From Walker Bay. A very drying style where the tannin structure and muted fruit comes from the sangiovese. Long and savoury, this will pair very well with a good steak. Very drying and tart, this will age well in the medium term.

AA Badenhorst Family Wines – Shiraz Blend – 2009 (17.5). From Swartland. Pepper and spice over chocolate fruit on the nose. The palate is peppery, with fine, though chewy tannins. The souring finish adds life and makes this easy to pair with food. There is chocolate, coffee, licorice and a touch of tar to close. An elegant wine that needs a few years to flesh out.

The Sadie Family – Columella – 2009 (18+). From Swartland. Complex nose that has a combination of ripe fruits and savoury notes. Chocolate, mocha and a touch of vanillin oak on a dense, textured, long and spicy palate. This is a significant wine. The oak is very high quality, the length is prodigious and the texture evolving. Powerful and intense, this deserves 10 + years in the cellar. Superb!

Rust en Vrede – Shiraz – 2010 (17). From Stellenbosch. Really chocolate-like fruit that is rich, ripe and forward. On the nose there is cherry and red berry fruit that is forward and approachable. A riper style and less structured, this appeals as an excellent drink-now wine. 15% alcohol, but does not appear in any way hot. Think McLaren Vale for style. The estate was started in 1694 and the wines are biodynamic.

De Trafford –Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Shiraz/Cabernet Franc – Elevation 393 – 2007 (18+). From Stellenbosch. Floral red fruits with herbal highlights. This reminds me of walking through my tomato plants, the hints of tomato leaf characters rising above the fruit. The palate is lean, yet powerful, the herbal characters complementing the fruit well. The oak is apparent, but balances the fruit well. Really needs time to evolve.

De Krans – Touriga National/Tinta Barocca/Souzao – Cape Vintage Reserve – 2008 (17.5). From Calitzdorp. Smells like port! Think fruitcake with an alcohol lift. The rich, fruitcake-like characters continue on the palate. Made like a port, this will age very well. In South Africa, this sells for around $10 per bottle and is an absolute bargain.

Reviewed: 11 November 2012

I was pleasantly surprised to see HSBC conducting a wine tasting in the Qantas Club, as there were some interesting wines on offer. There was a catch however. I had to enter a competition and am sure to be offered a variety of financial services in the not too distant future. I will let you know what I get signed up for. ☺

At the same time, some of the wines in the lounge were also better than the usual fare, so I thought I would look through their range and see what was worth drinking. I did not have long before take-off, so it is only first impressions here.

As this was not a blind tasting, my points are only a guide.

Reviewed

Seppelts – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – The Drivers – NV. (16.5). Pleasant apple blossom and citrus with just a hint of bready aromas. There is a fresh and vibrant palate showing citrus and fresh fruit flavours. This is soft and very easy to drink, the dosage is sympathetic and there is even reasonable length on the close.

Tenuta Guado al Tasso – Vermentino – 2010 (17). Lovely complex aromas of stone-fruit, minerals and a touch of citrus over dense, nutty fruit. Quite rich and textured, with a degree of viscosity on the palate. There are some lees characters and a gentle creaminess to close. A smart wine that is more about texture than up front fruit. Ideally suited to food.

Wynns – Riesling – Coonawara – 2011 (17). Served very cold, but opens to show floral fruit and lovely fresh lime aromas. In fact this is quite expansive. The palate is taut and vibrant, with lemony acidity driving the creamy finish. Quite good intensity and length on a wine that should develop well in the short term. Underrated.

Oliver Leflaive – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – Les Setilles – 2009 (16.8). Obviously French in style. Subtle, creamy fruit showing apricot kernel over gentle minerality. The palate is creamy and expansive, with minerals and a touch of curry leaf to close. Well made, though not particularly dense, there is reasonable complexity. A very enjoyable drink.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – The Hidden Cave – 2012 (NR). So fresh that the fruit has almost tropical aromas over the chardonnay-like peachy notes. The light and fresh palate has tropical fruit and a touch of creamy oak to close. This is, undoubtedly, a good wine, though I would like to see this in another 6 months as there are still some ester-like ferment characters showing on the finish (ripe banana).

Two Paddocks – Pinot Noir – Picnic – 2009 (17). Nice wine this! There is good depth to the fruit on the nose and reasonable weight also. Quite dark fruits with cherry, spice and a touch of earthy tar. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with more of those cherry fruit flavours. There is good length on the finish, though not overly complex, this is a good wine for early consumption.

Catena Zapata – Catena – Malbec – 2009 (17.5 – 18). There is really dense fruit on the nose. Mulberry, plum and tar comes to mind. The palate is bright, dense and delicious, the fruit being supported by dusty tannins and well-judged oak. Whilst perceptible, the oak is more texturing than an overt flavour. The wine builds in the mouth and has excellent length and mouth-feel. A wine to look out for.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2010 (17.5). Lovely fruit on display here. Soft, round and compelling, tasting this wine is like greeting an old friend. There is quality fruit and textured oak, while the flavours are reminiscent of chocolate and plum with a touch of earthy complexity. The finish is a touch chewy from the fine, though noticeable tannins. Sure to age well.

Bailey’s of Glenrowan – Durif – Petite Sirah – 2010 (17.5). I am not sure where the “petite” comes from as this has dense fruit on the nose. Licorice, spice, black fruits and oak all vie for attention, though they are wrapped in a blanket of fine tannins. The length is excellent and this too is sure to improve for several years. (Durif is often referred to as petite sirah, especially in the US).

Reviewed: 10 October 2012

Fine Wine Partners is a wholesaler who represents a number of quality Australian and international producers. Given the number of wines on tasting, I elected to focus on chardonnay and pinot noir as I could not get through everything on offer and still make sense.

My reviews are a touch brief, due to the limited time I had available. As this was not a blind tasting, use my points as a rough guide only.

Reviewed

Champagne

Ayala – Brut Nature – NV (17.8). Lovely nose with real thrust. Think brioche, dough and struck match. The palate is long and complex with excellent line. The toasty developed characters blend with citrus fruit and zest. Whilst this is bone dry, it is in no way austere as there is a degree of richness to the fruit and lovely mouth-feel.

Bollinger – NV (18). A degree of ripeness and richness here, but the fruit is perfectly balanced. There is remarkable elegance for a wine of this power. The palate is very long and powerful, with the fruit building in the mouth. There is an almost chewy texture to close. Super stuff.

Chardonnay

Joseph Drouin – Chardonnay – Beaune – 1er Cru – Clos des Mouches – 2009 (17.5 – 18). A lovely wine that is restrained and tight, with the power of the mineraly fruit on display on the palate. The length is excellent. A lovely wine for drinking now to 5 years.

MacRostie – Chardonnay – Sonoma County – 2009 (17.5 – 18). Quite a restrained and taught nose with real potential. With air the fruit really plumps up nicely. The palate is rich and ripe, with buttery oak and ripe stone fruit flavours. Quite peachy really, this is a bigger style that packs in the flavour, yet has good balance and excellent length. If you like a richer style, this is definitely worth a try.

Oakridge – Chardonnay – Denton Vineyard – 2011 (17.5 – 18). Worked, barrel ferment and lees aromas, with struck match and flinty complexity. The powerful, though refined palate that has excellent mouth-feel and texture. Quality fruit, expertly handled.

Villa Maria – Chardonnay – Reserve Barrique (17.5+). Lovely nose that has delicate peachy fruit over fine, creamy, winemakers inputs. The palate is more forward, with peachy fruit complemented by medium toast, high quality oak. I would like to see this again in 2-3 years to see if the oak comes back to the fruit. Impressive all the same.

Joseph Drouin – Chardonnay – Chablis – 2010 (16.8). Lovely minerality and gentle complexity to a wine that is unmistakably Chablis. The palate is fresh and bright, with quality fruit in evidence. There is plenty of minerals and hints of honey on a finish that, whilst not complicated, is admirably long.

Pinot Noir

MacRostie – Pinot Noir – Wildcat Mountain – 2007 (18). Superb wine that, whilst not Burgundian in style, has gorgeous fruit and winemaking. This is a wine to drink, rather than to think too much about.

Oakridge – Pinot Noir – Oakridge Vineyard – 2011 (18). Lovely perfumed nose with fruit in the cherry spectrum. The palate is feminine, balanced and long. There is a degree of fleshiness to the fruit, but this is balanced by fresh acid and fine oak. Very smart!

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Southern Clay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). Beautiful colour here. Initially, the nose is quite shy and tight, while there is amazing depth to the palate. Sweet fruit, texturing oak and taught tannins flood the senses. This is a big ripe wine that retains a degree of typicity, though in a very new world in style. A few years should see this settle and come together beautifully. Points for potential.

Stoniers – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5+). Delicate colour. A very feminine wine that is lighter in body than the others here. Whilst there is delicate floral fruit on both the nose and palate, there is surprising depth to the fruit on the palate. A soft, refined finish ensures that this is excellent drinking.

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2010 (17 – 17.5). Gentle red fruits on the nose. The palate has lovely, vibrant fruit that is framed by juicy acidity. Good length and mouth-feel on the finish. Not overly complex, but the hint of smoky oak on the finish really adds to the texture.

Reviewed: 22 Spetember 2012

Reviewed

De Bortoli – Cabernet Sauvignon – Deen – Vat 9 – 2010 (17.5+). Really deep smelling fruit that belies the megre price that this will sell for. Blackcurrant, cedar, mint and menthol flood the palate. The good quality fruit that has been very well handled. Very long and textured finish, the persistance of the fruit flavours is a standout. Delicious now, this will actually age well in the short term.

De Bortoli – Durif – Deen – Vat 1 – 2010 (17.5). Refined and elegant, this is dense and mouth-filling, but in no way overblown. Excellent structure and mouth feel with a vibrant finish. The fruit is subdued, so food would sit really well with this. Superbly made, modern and intersting.

De Bortoli – Petit Verdot – Deen – Vat 4 – 2009 (16.7). Cordial like fruit aromas that remind me of strawberry jam. Sweet red berry fruit on the palate, with firm, drying tannins to close. An interesting wine with dense and quite powerful fruit.

Reviewed:15 September 2012

Of the 20 wines tasted, only a handful of wines made it to this review. Whilst the grape varieties and winemaking styles are varied, the one constant is that they deliver well on the value/quality proposition.

If I was only going to drink one wine, it would be the John Duval. A superb match to food. On the other hand, the Yangarra requires no food at all.

Reviewed

Yangarra – Viognier – 2010 (17.7). Rich apricot and tropical fruit on the nose. The palate is rich, textured, long and really builds. Honey, apricot and some complex nutty characters show on a palate that is dense. This is almost a meal in itself. The oak is well done but firm now, so I suspect that this will be even better in a year or two.

John Duval – Marsanne/Rousanne/Viognier – Plexus – 2011 (17.5+). A lovely wine this. Quite complex, with hints of lanolin and the palate is textured and round. This is quite a neutral wine, yet it evolves and captivates. The palate is seamless and very long. Lemony acid carries the finish. Superb drinking the next day, so do not be afraid to give it some air.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2011 (17.3). Grassy and textured with lemon and lanolin. In the mouth, this is long and textured. The oak is the main character on the finish now, but this works. The length is notable as is the creamy mouth feel. 100% barrel ferment, this is an excellent chardonnay alternative, but some time in the cellar is needed to express itself fully.

3 Tales – Sauvignon Blanc – 2011 (17). Wow, pungent lantana and tropical fruits in a full blooded NZ style. Pineapple and passionfruit pulp, with a long and tart finish. The hint of residual sugar makes this a great choice this summer. If you like the style, then this is worth a try.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Miamup – 2012 (17). Change in style. This is creamy and restrained. Some quality oak has been used. The palate is creamy, grassy and refined. There is lemon and lanolin and the finish is long and intense. A year or two in botlle will only help this wine.

Tyrrell’s – Sauvignon Blanc – Lost Block – 2012 (16.8). Restrained, fresh, grassy, gentle, silky, soft and round. This is a really good every day drink. It is not complicated, but it has decent length. Should be a bargain.

Tyrrell’s – Semillon – Lost Block – 2011 (16.5). Lean and linear, this is fruit driven wine is a total contrast to the Mt Horricks. The palate is long and zesty. Not overly complex, but a good every day wine.

Reviewed: 10 September 2012

This was a big tasting, with a number of excellent wines. My notes are relatively brief due to the number of wines involved.

The Evans & Tate Classic represents particularly good value!

Reviewed

Driftwood Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (18). Appealing nose on this, whilst the palate is finely structured. This is a very elegant style of wine that balances ripe, though restrained fruit with super fine tannins and oak. Should develop very well in the medium term, as the wine opens to show lovely ripe fruit that is quite firm. Very long, the oak and tannins have been expertly managed.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Wilyabrup – 2010 (17.9). Another superb wine that has ripe, precise fruit and enough savoury notes to add interest. Chewy, but not dense on the palate, this is so refined.

Brookland Valley Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17.5/18) Lovely eucalypt and mint over ripe, though quite reserved fruit. The palate has good concentration, though the acidity and tannins dominate. Give it a few years to settle and you will be rewarded.

Amberley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Secret Lane – 2011 (17.5). Lovely cassis and blackcurrant fruit here. The palate is bursting with juicy fruit that is vibrant, but there is enough acid to keep the finish fresh. Typical of the style that many winemakers are striving for with this blend. This is an excellent early consumption red that delivers exactly what the consumer will expect.

Anniebrook – Shiraz/Tempranillo – 2011(17.5). Wow, this took me by surprise. Lovely ripe and rich shiraz, with a little structure and minty fruit. Licorice and spice flesh out the finish and the length is good. Being more about the fruit, this is really drinkable.

Arimia – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.8). Textbook nose that showing red fruits, mint and eucalypt. The palate has cedary oak over fine tannins. The gentle fruit has good length and is quite fine. Should settle with a year or two in bottle and become excellent drinking.

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Classic – 2011 (17.5). Red fruits with hints of cherry and spice. The palate is very spicy, though the fruit builds on a finish that is carried by the fine acidity. Develops perfumed fruit on the palate. Mouth-watering finish needs food, but this is a bargain!

Flying Fish Cove – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17.5). Structured and quite dense. The nose only hints at potential right now. The length and texture are excellent, though the fruit is quite subdued. Very fine wine that has been expertly made, the points are for potential.

Peccavi – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – No Regrets – 2008 (17.5). Dense and structured fruit on the nose. The palate is firm, though everything is in balance. The talc like tannins match the weight well, while the oak is not obtrusive. A good effort.

Plantagenet – Pinot Noir – Omrah – 2011 (17.3). Dense and structured, this is a smart wine that will really build. Fine tannins, supple oak and a savoury finish complete the package.

3drops – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17). Opens with up-front fruit in the strawberry and cherry spectrum. The palate has quite rich fruit and chewy tannins that add life. Silky, sweet fruit and a savoury edge on the finish.

West Cape Howe – Tempranillo – 2011 (17). Richer, riper fruit that whilst appealing, is very new world in style. The fruit on the palate is riper, sweeter and denser than the Express Winemakers, though the finish has trademark drying tannins. Good length to the flavours, this represents a good each-way bet.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude Vineyards – 2007 (17). With concentrated aromas that balance mint and red fruits, this has really appealing fruit characters. The palate is vibrant and fresh, with enough tannin and acid to sustain a very long finish. Not overly dense, but really good use of the fruit.

Driftwood Estate – Merlot – 2011 (16.9). The nose is quite dumb, but has some menthol and spice. The palate is firm and structured and speaks of good quality cooler climate fruit. The winemaking is spot on with the subtle oak highlights adding interest. Good length and persistence, this is more Bordeaux like in style than the others here. Needs a few years.

Express Winemakers – Tempranillo – 2011 (16.7). Fresh, almost sappy fruit on a nose that is full of life. Balances sour cherry and strawberry fruit flavours well. Not that dense, but this suits the style. This is a wine that is good drinking.

Hamelin Bay – Rampant Red – 2009 (16.5). Does not give much away on the nose, but the palate is a riot of ripe fruit and robust texture. This is a great mid winter red that has been aptly named.

Miles From Nowhere – Merlot – Limited Lot – 2010 (16.5). Rich plummy fruit that remains fresh and interesting. Some licorice and spice too. The palate has excellent balance between savour fruit, silky tannins and souring acidity. Good mid week red.

Reviewed: 1 September 2012

This tasting was a chance to look at a few specific wines that we needed to taste. The riesling bracket was particularly strong, reflecting the quality of the Great Southern fruit.

The pinots were more of a mixed bag, with the wines making to this review receiving praise for displaying appropriate fruit characters. The weight of the wines tended to be a little heavier, reflecting their new-world origins.

Finally, the pair of fortified wines from Swan Valley producer Fairbrossen were top notch.

Reviewed

Riesling

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Figtree – 2011 (18.1). Slight residual sugar marks this apart from the others here. Gorgeous, intense fruit on the nose and palate, with hints of nuttiness over lime fruit flavours. There is tremendous length and the acidity balances this wine perfectly leaving the finish dry and fresh. Delicious now, but sure to age well. Cleverly, there is a scale on the label that informs the consumer of the level of dryness.

Frankland Estate – Riesling – Isolation Ridge – 2011 (18). There is a degree of richness to the fruit here. Rounder in the mouth than some, the juicy lime fruit has lovely texture and mouth-feel. With a near seamless finish, this is very good now, yet the well judged acidity ensures that this will also age well.

Arcadia – Riesling – 2011 (17.5). Lovely attack on the nose. Taut, steely, restrained and fine, this is an excellent effort. The palate is gently textured and the steely fruit has lemony acid to close. There are hints of musk and spice on what is a captivating wine. Minerality adds richness to the finish.

Gilberts – Riesling – 2011 (17.5). Fragrant, with delicate perfume and floral characters. The palate shows lemon, lime and minerals with a chalky edge leading to a very fine and elegant finish. Restrained and taut, this would be great in 12 months or 12 years.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – 2011 (17.5). Limey fruit up front on the nose. The palate has lovely zesty fruit that shows minerals, flint and slate. The finish is very steely, though a touch of phenolics adds to the texture and weight. The length is noteworthy. This is a style that I like to age for a few years.

Pinot Noir

Black Estate – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.2). A dense wine that is obviously new world. There is a solid core of cherry fruit that is ripe, yet quite restrained. Coffee, chocolate and a touch of smoky bacon all add appeal. The palate shows fragrant fruit that has cherry and spice over sweet fruit. Fine acid and tannins confer excellent length to the finish. This is quite a complete wine that is a great drink on its own.

Gibbston Valley – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17+). An interesting wine that has lots to like. Dense, rich and textured with sour cherry and plum fruit. Long and rich, this is a big wine. The fruit is generous and builds in mouth, while the ripe tannins maintain freshness. Not delicate, but good drinking over the next five years.

Three Drops – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17). I like this. New world fruit that is ripe and succulent. The palate is long and juicy. Not overly complex or focussed, but an excellent drinking red. A good effort.

Plantagenet – Pinot Noir – 2010 (16.8). Lovely nose. Open and inviting, with ripe strawberry fruit and savoury highlights. Round, soft and generous fruit on the palate with a touch of toasty oak on the finish. Not overly complex, but very good drinking. Appropriate weight for the variety too.

Sweet Wines

Fairbrossen – Pedro Ximenez N.V. (18). Obvious age to the base material here. Rancio aromas over rich, Christmas cake and plum pudding fruit. The palate is complex and layered, with great viscosity. Mouth coating, long and balanced, this is a lovely wine. The finish really lingers and shows more of those fruit cake flavours. Needs no accompaniment.

Fairbrossen – Shiraz – Night Cap – N.V. (17.4). Dense red colour. The nose has a spirituous nose with rich and ripe plum fruit. Port-like, this is quite fresh and vinous, suggesting that the base material is quite young. The palate is vibrant, balanced and dense. There are fresh fruit characters with a touch of volatility. The good length of flavour combines with the ripe fruit to make this an excellent foil to chocolate desserts. Not overly sweet or complex, but a good drink.

Reviewed: 21 August 2012

The opportunity to try the wines of 10 of Victoria’s best wineries was something that I could not pass up. The fact that I had to fly half way around the world (well from Perth to Sydney anyway), added to the anticipation. My focus going into the tasting was chardonnay and pinot, so these are the wines that got most of my attention.

An interesting point to come out of the tasting was the number of producers who have not adopted screw-cap. A significant number of the wines were under cork and Diam.

So to the wines. As you would expect from some of Australia’s best wineries, the quality was outstanding. There was a variety of styles, with pinot and chardonnay dominating many of the producer’s offerings. That said, the shiraz and cabernet based wines were also top notch.

In general, the wines reflected the diverse terroir that is found across the wine growing regions of Victoria. Whilst I was unable to accurately pinpoint any distinct regional styles, individual winery styles were very evident. Vintage conditions also imparted an effect, with 2010 being a very generous year.

There were no bad wines on offer, though space restricts me from writing up every wine I tasted. This was not a blind tasting, so I was seduced by the label and in many cases, the winemaker who was pouring the wines. Many of these wineries are personal favourites of mine, which does not help.

Without a doubt, the highlight for me was looking through the range from Bass Phillip. It is a shame that I will need to sell a kidney to be able to afford any ☺.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting and i was further biased by having the winemakers to talk to as I tasted through the wines.:

Bannockburn

Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A very complex wine that has seen the full gamut of winemaking inputs, yet retains a degree of finesse that adds to the charm. Powerful fruit over struck match, lees and barrel ferment notes. Quite funky really. The palate is remarkable for its refinement and balance with creamy, textural components complemented by refreshing acidity. Excellent length on the finish.

Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.5 – 18). More Burgundian in style than many here, though with a touch more fruit than a Nuit St George for example. This is complex, silky, dense and chewy, with drying tannins and acidity to hold the finish together well.

Bass Phillip

Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18.5pts). Very complex and worked, with richness and underlying power to the fruit. The palate has melon and pineapple fruit that really builds. Lovely texture and the length is outstanding. An immensely complex wine that needs no accompaniment!

Chardonnay – Premium – 2010 (18.5+). A case of more is less. Initially, this has remarkable restraint and finesse. The wine really builds in the glass and hints at the latent power that is waiting to uncoil as this wine develops in the bottle.

Pinot Noir – Estate – 2010 (18 – 18.5). A gorgeous nose here that evolves and entices in the glass. The palate is elegant, textured, balanced and fine. The fruit is supple, yet ripe and the length and mouth-feel are spot on. The quality oak frames the fruit perfectly and adds to the appeal.

Pinot Noir – Premium – 2010 (18.5). A superb wine! The quality fruit is complex, balanced and textured and the length and power are in another dimension. This is relatively tannic and tight, the new oak adding grip and texture. The structure does, however sit beautifully with the fruit. Whist this is more approachable than the 2009, I would still recommend time in the cellar.

Bindi

Chardonnay – Quartz – 2010 (18.2). A superb nose that is a harmonious blend of quality fruit, oak and barrel ferment/lees characters. The palate is tight and fine, yet the underlying power of the fruit is undeniable. The acid and the oak suppress the fruit now, but with air this becomes rich, textured and very long.

Pinot Noir – Composition – 2010 (17). Fresh and supple fruit with decent length and weight. Uncomplicated and a good drink.

Pinot Noir – Original Vineyard – 2010 (18). More restrained, with darker fruits, cherry and lovely earthy/forest floor characters. The palate is dense, structured, and tight. I suggest pairing this with food if you are going to drink it now.

Pinot Noir – Block 5 Vineyard – 2010 (18.5). Intense fruit and lovely structure to this. The latent power tantalizes and tempts. I would like to give this up to 10 years in the cellar.

Craiglee

Chardonnay – 2009 (18). Complex and worked, this is a rich and creamy style of wine with great appeal. The palate is taut and fine and there are quality winemaking inputs. The balance is excellent and the oak (25% new) should settle down with a year in the bottle.

Crawford River

It is very refreshing to see a winery selling wine with some bottle age. The current release for the cabernet is 2005 and the cab/merlot 2006. The extra age added a delicious degree of drinkability. I tried these wines late in the tasting, so I have not reviewed them here. I do hope to be reacquainted with them soon though, as the quality was excellent!

Dalwhinnie

I have loved the wines from this producer for a long time and they are built to last. Although not tasted here, the chardonnay also does well in the cellar.

Cabernet Sauvignon – (18.5). 2010 Spectacular wine! Classic cabernet fruit showing mint and hints of red fruits. The structure is outstanding and the palate displays tremendous power, yet at the same time being tight and restrained. The balance is outstanding and the saying “iron fist in a velvet glove” comes to mind. Although the shiraz gets all the hype with this producer, this may well be the wine of the entire tasting.

Jasper Hill

Like Crawford River, I came to the superb wines of Jasper Hill late in the tasting. The quality of both the whites and reds are outstanding. I can only hope to try these wines again as they are a worthy addition to any cellar.

Moorooduc Estate

Chardonnay – 2011 (17.5+). Tight and restrained, with citrus and melon fruit characters. Taut and fine, the palate is near seamless. Partial (60%) malo-lactic fermentation preserves the acidity in what was a warmer year. Plenty of potential to improve with a few years in the cellar, but if you are going to drink it now, don’t serve it too cold.

Chardonnay – 2010 (18). The fruit here has opened up a bit more, with melon, pineapple and lovely citrus acidity. The palate is rich, complex and nicely textured. The creamy finish complements the fruit superbly (from lees and oak influences). A great drink.

Chardonnay – The Moorooduc – 2010 (18+). A richer, bigger wine than the Estate, with more power on the palate. The length is notable.

Pinot Noir – The Moorooduc – 2010 (18+). Wow, lovely perfume to the bright fruit, though the concentrated power is hinted at. Cherry and strawberry fruit initially on the palate, with a quality oak backbone. With air, the palate really opens up, fills out and evolves, becoming complex and long.

Tarrawarra Estate

I must confess that I have been a fan of this operation for a very long time. Year in, year out, their pinots have always done well in any tasting they have appeared in.

Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18 pts). Complex, nutty/almond meal and mineral complexity over creamy oak, lees and barrel ferment aromas. The palate is tight, restrained and very fine, though the fruit builds to show melon and peach characters. The lack of malo-lactic fermentation here contributes to this modern expression of Australian chardonnay.

Pinot Noir – Estate – 2010 (18). Fragrant, balanced, gentle and textured. The sweet, ripe fruit has been expertly matched to the quality oak. Good now, but will be better in 2-3 years.

Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Greater depth to the fruit compared to the Estate. There is still the sweet fruit and lovely balance, but there is just more depth and a touch of grip to the finish. Supple, long and fine, the silky oak frames the fruit beautifully.

Yeringberg

Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.5). Perfumed and balanced fruit on the nose. The fragrant fruit continues on the palate, with cherry, and a touch of toast courtesy of the oak. Good length and texture on the finish.

Cabernet Blend – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Concentrated nose showing mint, cedar, mulberry and spice. Long and tight, the palate has fantastic fruit that is dense, restrained, long and tight. A lovely wine with superb structure on the finish. Only 13% alcohol, and all the better for it.

Shiraz – 2010 (18). Pepper, clove, cinnamon and restrained fruit on the nose. This has marvellous texture and mouth-feel. The fruit is really supple, spicy and textured. Delicious.

Reviewed: 9 August 2012

I was recently asked to write the tasting notes for the Picardy newsletter and I must say that this was a very enjoyable task. The curent crop of wines are as good as any that the winery has made.

Within a strong line up, the 2011 chardonnay is a superstar and deserves to be considered amoungst Australias finest.

NB. This was not a blind tasting. All wines are closed with cork.

Reviewed

Picardy – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2012. (17.5). Very pale colour, reflecting the recent bottling. The nose displays lovely citrus and tropical fruit aromas. On the palate, the wine combines grassy complexity with lemon and zesty lime. With air, the tropical fruit subsides and the palate displays an almost ethereal character. There are subtle talc and musk characters over lemony acidity that contribute to excellent persistence on the finish. Pristine fruit is what defines this wine, though subtle winemaking influences add texture and complexity. This will prove an excellent drink this summer and the next.

Picardy – Chardonnay – 2011 (18.5). Pale straw colour. Delicate and perfumed, there are gentle peach aromas over subtle grapefruit and lemon zest characters. An elegant wine that speaks of high quality fruit yet possesses a lovely creamy character courtesy of very slick winemaking. The palate is superb. The high quality fruit is restrained and taut, yet remarkably intense. With air, the fruit really builds and is perfectly complemented by fine-grained French oak that adds texture and mouth-feel without dominating the flavour. The length is outstanding, with hints of pineapple. The balanced citrus acidity confers drive to the near seamless finish. A complete and elegant wine that, whilst lovely now, will be even better in 2 -3 years. Comparable to good Burgundy, but at a fraction of the price, this deserves to be included amongst Western Australia’s finest chardonnays.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Pannell Family – 2010 (16.6). A lighter hue compared to the other pinots in the range, but still with good extraction. Good balance between ripe, strawberry/cherry fruit and savoury, earthy components that add complexity. The palate is very approachable showing fruit that is soft and round. Structural components are very much in the background while there are hints of smokiness/toasty oak on the finish that is common with Pemberton pinots. Not an overly complex wine, but an easy-drinking style for early consumption.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17.7). More intensity compared to the Pannell Family pinot. The colour is richer, whist the bouquet is more restrained. This has hints of spice over dense cherry fruit. The palate is quite earthy, with a core of rich fruit that speaks of dark cherries, licorice, cinnamon and forest floor highlights. The greater fruit weight on the palate is matched to deftly handled oak and fine tannins. The finish is long and fine, with a rich vein of fruit running the full length of the palate. A wine of real presence that drinks well now, but needs several years to show its best.

Picardy – Pinot Noir – Tete de Cuvee – 2010 (18 – 18.5) . The colour is more intense again, but paradoxically, the fruit is more restrained and fine than the standard pinot. The nose is an evolving feast of cherry fruit, tea, cinnamon and spice. There is pristine, high quality fruit on a palate that has a lovely silky texture. The wine is involving and fine, with the quality fruit the main attraction. Tannins are very fine, while the acidity adds drive to the finish. The oak adds structural support, but is in no way dominant. Whist this has the potential to evolve in the bottle for several years, it is superb drinking now. Burgundian in style.

Picardy – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2010 (17.8). Mulberry, redcurrant, mint and hints of plum on the nose with a touch of chocolate and vanillin oak. The palate has a degree of fleshy fruit, but the structure and refinement confer a degree of elegance. The chocolaty oak, silky tannins and acid carry the finish well. The textural components build with air and the wine develops a slightly chewy finish. The perfect foil to roast meats now, 5 – 10 years in the cellar will be well rewarded.

Picardy – Shiraz – 2010 (18). I like this a lot. Black pepper, dark fruits, cinnamon, spice, aniseed and tar are all expressed on the nose. The palate follows with more of the savoury characters over Satsuma plum. The fruit and oak tannins add nicely to the mouth-feel and there is a touch of coffee and oak on a finish that highlights the quality dark fruit characters. This really needs a couple of years to come together, so give it some air if you are going to drink it soon. For me, this is the bargain in the range.