Prestige Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 19^th December 2015

With wine tasting, as in life in general, some days are better than others. A bracket of Clare Valley Riesling for example, is always going to be infinitely more enjoyable than tasting Barossa Pinot Noir.

Then there are the really good days. Days when you feel privileged to be given the opportunity to taste the wines presented. Days when the most challenging part of the tasting is bringing yourself to spit the wine out after each sip…

And so it was that I sat down to taste a cross-section of some of Western Australia’s most highly acclaimed Cabernets. Naturally, there can only be so many wines included in a line up like this, so some of the wines that I have rated highly recently were not included here. This includes the likes of the Vasse Felix Heytesbury and Moss Wood (from the Moss Wood Vineyard).

Overall, the wines were outstanding, and the points allocated in this blind tasting arbitrary. A score of 18.5 could easily have been 19, with the minor variations in points indicating my ever-so-slight personal preferences between the wines.

It will come as no surprise that the wines from Margaret River showed so well. It may surprise some though that my top wine (just) was Larry Cherubino’s Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the best Australian Cabernets that I have tasted in recent years.

From a value perspective, the Xanadu Cabernet was a clear standout. A superb wine at a sensible price!

Prestige Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2013 (19). The profile here is different to the Margaret River wines, but all the better for it. Supple, ripe fruit is the focus, with a core of minerality. The palate is silky and feminine, with fine (souring) acidity and supple oak and tannin structure. The textured finish is very long and incredibly fine. May turn out to be one of the greatest wines released from Frankland. (RRP $110).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.8). A slightly different style to recent releases, where the fruit is more accessible. Fresh blackcurrant aromas with hints of mint and herbs. The palate is refined and silky, the ripe fruit set against a backdrop of silky oak and tannins. The acidity brings the whole package to life. A tremendous wine that will be long-lived. (RRP $100).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2013 (18.7). Really deep smelling fruit, with spice and spearmint over ripe mulberry notes and a hint of pepper. The palate is dense and structured, yet remarkably refined. The length and texture truly outstanding. There is a silky mouth-feel supported by very supple oak and superb tannin management. A brilliant wine that will live for decades. (RRP $75).

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2013 (18.7). Red berries to the fore, with gentle earth and tar aromas. The palate is relatively lean, with the bright acidity masking the fruit. Very fine oak and tannins dominate the finish, serving to close down the fruit, though a bit of air helped the fruit express better. A very impressive wine that is firmly in the mould of fine left-bank Bordeaux. (RRP $120).

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Project U12 – North Block – 2011 (18.6). Very closed and restrained nose. The palate only hints at what is to come over the years. Silky oak combines with oh-so-fine tannins. The texture is outstanding, even if the fruit needs time to emerge. With air, there is a degree of plushness that is most attractive. A lovely wine that has taken a step up from the 2010, which was a pretty smart wine in its own right. (RRP $90).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – Reserve – 2013 (18.6). Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, mint and hints of fresh herbs. This wine sits firmly in the middle-ground, with fine fruit the focus. The structural components frame the fruit, while the acidity carries the finish. Ideally needs 5 years to hit its straps, but a super wine that will give great drinking pleasure any time over the next 15 years. A brilliant follow up to the 2012 and good value at around $50.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (18.5+). A totally seductive wine that is silky, supple, soft and textured. The fruit is actually quite closed, but the balance is so good that you are left wanting another mouthful. Fruit characters expressed include plum and mulberry, with a spice-lift courtesy of the fine oak and firm tannins. Superb now, or in 20 years, and great value to boot. (RRP $37).

Grace Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.3). Lovely fruit combined with slick winemaking makes for an excellent drink. Blackcurrant, spice, hints of menthol and eucalypt all unfold on the palate. The mouth-feel is superb, with wonderful poise and balance. Very fine oak frames the fruit perfectly, with the acid and tannins adding depth. A relative bargain at $35.

Good Value New Releases

Barry Weinman: 10^th December 2015

The panel found a variety of wines over the last few weeks that we either great value drinking, or really interesting. Okay, so the Flowstone are not cheap, but they are interesting wines.

Here are some of the highlights.

Flowstone – Chardonnay – Queen of the Earth – 2012 (18). The fruit is quite accessible on the nose, with peach and nectarine giving way to pineapple. The palate is fine and elegant, with the supple oak closing down the fruit at present. Give it another year or two to open up. (RRP $55).

Hollick – Chardonnay – The Bard – 2014 (17.5). Fairly gentle fruit on the nose, with taut grapefruit and blood orange aromas. The palate works a treat, with pineapple, stone fruit, creamy oak, and good length. The citrus-like acidity really drives the finish. Delicious white for this summer with or without food. (RRP $18).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Run Free – 2014 (17).   Restrained nose and palate, with neutral aromas and flavours. With air, the gentle stone fruit characters come to the fore. The mouth-feel is a highlight. Give it a year or two for the lemony fruit to open up. (RRP $25).

Nocton Vineyard – Pinot Noir – N1 – 2012 (17.5+). Delicious fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and supple, with gentle structure and acid. Lacks the ultimate depth of the very best, but this is a lovely drink. From the Coal River Valley in Tasmania. (RRP $38).

Nocton Vineyard – Pinot Noir – Coal River Valley – 2013 (17). Hints of earth and minerality over dark berry fruit notes. More structure to the fruit on the palate, with red currant, berries, licorice and spice. Slight char from the oak adds complexity. Good value drinking (RRP $26).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – Queen of the Earth – 2011 (18+). Lovely depth and density to the fruit here. The nose is subtle and fine, with hints of sweet berry and subtle spice. The palate is drying and savoury, the core of fruit perfectly balanced by the oak and fine tannins. Near seamless and very long. (RRP $60).

Cross Stitch – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014. (17). Ripe and delicious fruit. Plump, fruit-forward palate with cedary oak, fine tannins and just enough grip to make the finish interesting. The fruit is not overly dense, but this will be good easy drinking over the summer months.

Shottesbrooke – GSM – 2014 (17). A crowd-pleasing wine that has gentle plum and mulberry fruit over soft tannins and rounded acidity. Made for early consumption, this is a great alternative to have with roast beef. (RRP $20).

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – Reserve – 2013 (18). Seductive nose that combines dense, earthy fruit with hints of licorice. In the mouth, the fruit is dense and ripe, without appearing heavy. Slightly chewy tannins and oak add interest to the long finish. Another cracking wine from this in-form producer. (RRP $23).

Achaval Ferrer

For the wine-lover who has everything.

Barry Weinman: 4^th December 2015

According to Gaston William, the Sales Director for Argentinian winery Achaval Ferrer, the winery was started in 1999 by the Achaval and Ferrer families in conjunction with Roberto Cipresso. Hailing from a winery in Montalcino, Cipresso brought vinous expertise to the venture while the Achaval and Ferrer families injected the capital.

Situated in Mendoza, The three main vineyards that supply Malbec for the winery are over 100 years old, with a fourth planted in 1999. Malbec is clearly the focus, with single vineyard wines made from each of the old sites.

The aim is to express the differences between the vineyards, with a minimal intervention approach taken in the winery . There is also a stated aim of capturing old-world elegance, whilst retaining a core of ripe fruit.

Yields are low, with the single vineyard wines in the range of 12 hectolitres per hectare.

The wines have been highly acclaimed from the likes of Parker and the Wine Spectator.

Having tried a cross-section of their wines, they are clearly of very high quality, though there is a catch. The wines are very expensive in Australia. The entry level Malbec and Cabernet are around $65 per bottle, with the range-topping Single Vineyard wines sitting above $300.

At these prices, the wines have not exactly flown out the wholesaler’s door, which is good news for consumers. The wines currently available in Australia have a couple of extra years’ bottle age, which has allowed the wines to open up a little.

If you are looking for a gift for a wine-lover who has everything, then this may be your answer.

Reviewed

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec – 2013 (18). Inky, deep colour in the glass. Intense plum-like fruit on the nose with spice and dusty, earthy notes. The palate is dense, soft, supple and intense, with fine tannins and excellent length. The mouth-feel is a highlight. From a blend of vineyards, this spent 9 months in older oak. ($65).

Achaval Ferrer – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (17.5). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is vibrant and juicy, with soft, supple tannins and gentle acidity. With a dusty texture to close, this is balanced, long and a delight to drink now. ($65).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec/Cabernet Franc etc – Quimera – 2009 (18.5). Very intense fruit on the nose, with a lovely earthy undercurrent courtesy of the Malbec. Again, there is plum and spice. The palate is intense and long. The fruit is elegant and refined, and there is a lovely supple mouth-feel. The oak is seamlessly integrated on the finish. So easy to drink, yet will last for some years. . ($135).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec/Cabernet Franc etc – Quimera – 2011. (18.3) The fruit here is more vibrant and lifted. The palate has dusty yet intense fruit, with hints of fennel and aniseed. There are slightly chewy tannins on a long, supple and very fine finish. (4000 cases made; $135).

Achaval Ferrer – Malbec – Finca Altamira – 2011. (18.7) This is really refined and silky. There is more purity to the fruit, with the earthy notes sitting firmly in the background. The palate is taut and refined and the fruit subdued. The finish is very elegant, as the oak, tannins and acid are incredibly refined and the balance superb. (1000 cases made; $350).

New Release

Barry Weinman: 10^th November 2015

There were a number of highlights across this week’s New Release tastings. From the precise and delicate Howard Park Riesling to the sheer power and intensity of the Pernot Belicard Puligny, there is something here for everyone. Having said that, none of the wines are exactly cheap.

The Pinots from Wither Hills are worthy of singling out for their diversity of styles. The Benmorven is pure and precise, whilst the Taylor River is funky and delicious.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2015 (18). Lovely fresh fruit on the nose, though in a restrained style. The palate is floral and aromatic, with refreshing acidity to close. A very fine wine, with lime juice over a core of Nashi pear. Excellent length and the minerality builds. (RRP $34).

Silvan Bzikot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – Blanc – 2013 (17). A middle of the road style, where good quality fruit has been well handled, with little in the way of oak. Not overly intense or complicated, but a very enjoyable drink. The acidity really brings the palate together on the close. ($40 from Lamont’s Cottesloe).

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – Wilyabrup – 2013 (17.8). A really interesting wine from a region not known for Pinot. Opens with ripe, succulent fruit over sweet vanillin notes. The palate is vibrant and delicious, with the fruit the main feature. Fragrant and elegant, this builds cherry notes with air. Finishes with refreshing acidity and fine tannins. (RRP $65).

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – Benmorven – 2011 (17.9). High fruit quality, made in a serious style. Dark, powerful fruit on the palate, with a touch of cocoa over plum and black cherry fruit. Fine, though persistent tannins underscore the quality of the fruit. The finish is long and fine, with supple tannins/structure. Enjoyable now, but will be better in 5 years.

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – Taylor River – 2011 (17.7). Really interesting wine. The nose is packed with minerals and spice. There is even a curry-leaf aroma. The palate is supple and refined, with spicy red fruits over souring acidity and tannins. The fruit gets quite earthy and textured (perhaps a touch of Bret). The purists might object, but this is a wine full of character and my pick of the tasting to drink now.

Special Occasion Wines

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 1er Cru – Les Perrieres – 2013 (18.5++). Fantastic power and intensity here. Pineapple, curry leaf, stone fruit, minerality and a touch of oak all express on the nose. The palate is powerful and precise, with the fruit characters carrying the length of the palate. Grapefruit-like acidity combines with minerals and hints of toast from the oak on the finish. Impressive. (Approx. $220).

Domaine Bzikot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2013 (18.3). Impressive fruit weight on the nose and palate. Powerful, intense and mouth-watering. Taut, razor-sharp acidity balances the rich fruit perfectly. Long and complex, this really needs a couple of years to fill out. (RRP $90)

Vasse Felix Chardonnay

2014 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 18^th October 2015

In her time as winemaker, Virginia Wilcock has consistently produced wines of such high quality that Vasse Felix now rightly sits as one of the top few wineries in the Margaret River Region.

For several years now, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay released under the Heytesbury label have each been in my top five wines produced in the region.

In 2014, the whole range excelled, from the entry level Filius (Green Capsule), the Premier Chardonnay (Gold Capsule) to the super-premium Heytesbury (White Capsule).

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Filius – 2014 (17.7). A neutral, relatively taut rendition of Chardonnay. This is in the modern, earlier harvest style, with subtle fruit and refreshing acidity. The oak is nearly invisible. With a little air, the fruit builds, providing excellent drinking. Despite being the “entry level” wine, this should fill out with a year or two in the bottle. (RRP $25).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Premier – 2014 (18). In many respects, this is the most approachable of the new releases, offering quality fruit and texturing winemaking influences. The fruit builds depth in the glass. A high quality wine that provides excellent current drinking. (RRP $35).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2014 (18.5+). A complex nose, with stone fruit characters over creamy oak and barrel ferment notes. The fruit is refined yet intense on the palate, the oak adding lovely mouth-feel and texture. Near seamless, this is a lovely wine of great intensity. The finish is very long and integrated, with a touch of viscosity and richness. This powerhouse wine will be even better with a couple of years in bottle. (RRP $ 70).

Chateau d’Yquem – 2013

Masterclass with Sandrine Garbay

Barry Weinman: 16^th September 2015

One of the best jobs in the wine world must surely be that of winemaker at the famed 1^st Growth Sauterne – Chateau d’Yquem. Sandrine Garbay started at the winery in 1994, setting up the laboratory. She was brought in by the Luc Saluces family, to bring a more technical approach to vineyard management, as well as looking at ways of improving the process.

In 1998, with the departure of Guy Latrille, Sandrine was promoted to winemaker at this venerable estate. The rest, as they say, is history.

Sandrine’s promotion to winemaker corresponded with a very turbulent period for the owners of the winery, culminating in the sale of the estate to LVMH. Besides the portfolio of fashion brands, LMVH also owns a remarkable stable of wineries including

• Moet and Chandon
• Veuve Clicquot
• Hennessy
• Cheval Blanc
• Krug
• Cape Mentelle

Sandrine was in town to celebrate the imminent launch of two 2013 vintage wines; Chateau d’Yquem and a dry Bordeaux Blanc labeled “Y”. The later was of particular interest, as it is harvested just before the sweet wine (just after the onset of botrytis), so there can be some botrytis influences. In effect, it tastes like a dry sauterne.

There were also back vintages of both wines, to demonstrate their aging potential.

Given its fame, the sweet wine needs no introduction. For me, I was reminded of just how elegant and refined these wines are. Poles apart from the likes of De Bortoli from Australia, or indeed any other Sauterne.

The fruit is harvested with at least 360g/l of sugar. 40 – 60% is declassified each vintage. The wines are barrel fermented in 100% new oak for 22 months and SO₂ stabilised.

Given the delicacy, it is almost a shame to drink these wines with dessert. I found that the character of all the wines was more accessible as they approached room temperature, allowing the complexity and richness to become more apparent.

If there were one word that I would use to describe the wines, it would be ethereal. It was a privilege to attend the tasting.

The Wines

Chateau d’Yquem – Bordeaux Blanc – Y – 2013. The nose is savoury, dry and complex, with perfume and honey over herbaceous cut-grass characters. The palate is powerful, complex and textured, with savoury, toast-like notes and a drying finish. Not surprisingly, this is reminiscent of Sauterne in every way other than sweetness.

A blend of Semillon (75%) and Sauvignon Blanc that spends one year in oak, 20% of which is new, the remainder has previously held the sweet wine. 7 gm/l of residual sugar. 10,000 bottles made.

Chateau d’Yquem – Bordeaux Blanc – Y – 2000. The colour here is still relatively pale, tending to straw. The aromas are quite subtle, with hints of brioche and honey. It was in the mouth that this really comes to life, with honeyed, viscous fruit, fabulous mouth-feel and excellent texture. With air the intense fruit developed depth and power, tasting just like a dry “Sauterne”.

Until 2004, this wine was always a 50:50 blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The style and consistency has gradually evolved under Sandrine’s stewardship.

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauterne – 2013. Quite closed initially. Opens to show clearly defined apricot, with hints of orange marmalade and fresh cumquat. Perfumed, with just a touch of cinnamon spice. The palate is completely seamless and very intense, quite sweet and viscous, yet refined and balanced. The wine is actually quite light and fine with delicate fruit and subtle botrytis characters. Needs years, but if you do drink it this young, try letting it warm up in the glass a little to see how it evolves.

Semillon (70%)/Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyards were harvested over a four-week period and 60% of the production was declassified. There was 100% Botrytis, 13.2% alcohol and 150g/l of residual sugar. If drunk now as an aperitif, it was suggested to serve this quite cold (7 – 9 degrees C).

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauterne – 2005. More obvious richness on the nose. Concentrated, this has complex aromas of marzipan, apricot, almond, cinnamon and marmalade. The palate is very intense and powerful, yet elegant, refined, supple and seamless. There is great life and drive to the mouth-feel, and this really builds in the glass. Stunning! (13.5% alc, 140g/l residual sugar).

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauterne – 1996. A spectacular nose that is both intense and powerful. Almond meal, apricot, orange marmalade and marzipan all come to mind. The palate is powerful and intense, yet balanced and seamless. Not quite as sweet as some, allowing the fragrant spice notes to shine on the finish. A complete wine.

From a textbook vintage, 6g/l of acidity, 125g/l residual sugar and 14% alc.

Reference

Rand M; Sandrine Garbay of Chateau d’Yquem talks to Decanter:

http://www.decanter.com/features/sandrine-garbay-of-chateau-dyquem-talks-to-decanter-246592/