Lindeman’s Coonawarra Trio

The Three Musketeers

Barry Weinman: 5 September 2015

Lindeman’s has a proud history of producing some of the best Cabernet based wines in the country from the famous Coonawarra region of South Australia. In the 1980s and 1990s, no cellar would be complete without a cross-section of these wines (and the wines from Wynns).

For some reason, these wines have flown under the radar for the last few years. Whilst other brands in the Treasury stable have gone from strength to strength (Penfolds and Wynns for example), I have seen very few wines from Lindeman’s over the last decade or so.

So to have these wines turn up in one of our “blind” panel tastings brought back fond memories of the great wines of the last century and amply demonstrated the quality of the current batch. With an RRP of around $80, these wines are not cheap, but I note that they are available from Dan Murphy for around $55.

All three were excellent, if a little different in style. The Pyrus offers the most immediate drinking pleasure, the St George the greatest longevity and the Limestone Ridge demonstrating how good Shiraz/Cabernet blends from Coonawarra can be.

Reviewed

Lindeman’s – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Limestone Ridge – 2013 (18.6). Classic cool-climate fruit characters, with mint and eucalypt over ripe, berry fruit aromas. The palate is refined, elegant and near seamless. The savoury oak adds depth and texture, whilst the tannins are polished and refined. There is excellent acidity, which keeps the finish fresh and alive, whilst also ensuring longevity. Very good indeed. (RRP $80).

Lindeman’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – St George – 2013 (18.7). Beautiful, deeply scented fruit on the nose. The palate is precise and fine, with dense fruit and a touch of peppermint. The savoury oak adds to the textured palate, with almost chewy tannins. A finely crafted, powerful wine with excellent length. A fantastic wine that deserves years in the cellar. (RRP $80).

Lindeman’s – Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Pyrus – 2013 (18.3). (RRP $80). Impenetrable colour. The fruit here is rich, dense and layered. This is actually quite fruit forward, allowing for immediate pleasure. The fine tannins and supple oak serve to highlight the fruit quality. A delight to drink, though sure to age well anytime over the next 10 years.

15^th June 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

After flying below the radar for a number of years, Xabregas really made an impression with their 2010 Rieslings. This was followed up by the spectacular 2011s. These wines became my benchmark for Great Southern Riesling at the time.

According to Paul Hogan, son of founder Terry, growing conditions in 2012 and 2013 did not suit production of the top tier wines under the X label.

Fast forward to 2014, and here are a set of wines that take up where the 201 1s left off. The wines are precise, focused and fine, with varying degrees of residual sugar highlighting the pristine fruit.

From the near-dry standard release, to the “medium-dry” Spencer, these are wines of finesse and charm. All are age-worthy, though it is hard to imagine why you would not drink the Spencer now – it is absolutely delicious.

Fortunately, there are indicators on the back label to identify the level of residual sugar, so there will be no surprises.

Reviewed.

Xabregas – Riesling – 2014 (18). Muted pure fruit with a steely nose and gentle minerality. The palate is taut and fine, with gentle lime juice and very fine acid. There is just a touch of phenolic richness that adds depth, whilst the length is a standout. Great now, but will age brilliantly. (RRP $22).

Xabregas – Riesling – Artisan – 2014 (17.6). Pure lemon juice to start, with minerals and a hint of honey and spice. The use of old, neutral oak barrels for part of the wine, in addition to a proportion of lees contact makes for a richer, more generous style that is very approachable. That said, the finish is deceptively fine, with the acid kicking in to drive the dry finish. (RRP $31).

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Figtree – 2014 (18.6). Pretty, elegant and poised, yet with tremendous depth and power to the fruit. The palate is flooded with lime juice and lemon blossom characters. The finish is fine and tight, the steely acidity almost silky in the way it coats the palate. Hints of honeysuckle add to the floral fruit on the palate, complemented by a finish that is just off-dry (and all the better for it). This is my pick of the current releases (RRP $40).

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Spencer – 2014 (18.4). The minerality here is reminiscent of fine Chablis. There are floral lavender notes, lime juice and musk. The residual sugar here is the key, as it is the perfect counterpoint to the bracing acidity. A superb drink that is likely to partner Thai food very well. A youthful wine with latent power. (RRP $40).

4^th June 2015

Whilst the vineyards at Yangarra were originally planted in 1946, it was the purchase of the property by the Jackson family (Jackson Family Wines in the USA) that set the winery on its current trajectory.

Yangarra is situated in the Blewett Springs region of McLaren Vale, close to the border with the Adelaide Hills. This proximity to the Adelaide Hills, and the associated cooler climatic conditions help explain the finesse and restraint displayed in the wines.

Other factors influencing the wines include organic and biodynamic (certified in time for the 2012 vintage) farming as well as careful decisions in the winery. All fruit is sourced from their own vineyard.

The focus at Yangarra is on both red and white Rhone Valley varietals. The reds are made in large open fermenters, have carefully managed lees work and are basket pressed before being aged in a variety of oak casks, depending on the wine.

The wines were uniformly fine, with the straight Grenache being my pick. Apparently 2013 was a great year for Grenache. Fermentation for some of the fruit is in ceramic eggs. I am not sure what difference this makes as compared to stainless steel, but it looks funky!

The notes below are from a brief tasting that I did with Shelley Torresan (one of the winemakers) on a recent visit to Perth, which is why there are no points.

Reviewed

Yangarra – Grenache – 2013. From dry -grown bush vines, planted in 1946. The fruit expression (lovely red berries) on the nose is a highlight. Whilst quite restrained and closed, the palate has  berry and plum characters, with a hint of savoury prune. The finish is defined by the dusty, drying, almost chewy tannins. Oak only plays a support role, and the lack of acid adjustment is testament to the quality of the fruit.

Yangarra – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – 2013. A 49/29/22 blend. This has a pretty nose, defined by floral fruit. The palate is softer and more approachable than either of the straight wines. There are refined tannins on a long, savoury finish. A silky wine that would suit early to mid-term drinking.

Yangarra – Shiraz – 2012. The minerality of the Shiraz is a stand-out feature. Shelley attributes this to the gravel in which the vines grow (the Grenache is grown in sandy soil). Restrained, the refined fruit and spice notes really build with air. The finish is silky and balanced, though this needs a few years to hit its straps.

Yangarra – Shiraz – Ironheart – 2010. With beautifully precise red fruits, this is an elegant, almost delicate Shiraz. This has structural/textural characters reminiscent of fine red Burgundy. Like the other wines here, the finish is long, fine and silky, with mouth-watering acidity and a chalky minerality that adds depth. A surprisingly elegant flagship wine with ethereal qualities!

21^st April 2015

This topic was brought into focus by several wines I opened recently. The highlight of the year so far was a bottle of White Burgundy (Chardonnay). The wine was a 1983 1^er Cru Chassagne Montrachet from Blain Gagnard.

Whilst the colour of the wine in the bottle was good and the level of the wine was still high in the bottle, I must admit that I did not have high hopes for the wine. This was a 35 year old Chardonnay after all. Even when the cork came out in great condition, I was still unsure.

The outcome, however, was nothing short of spectacular! The colour was golden, but without a hint of browning. The nose was aromatic and complex, yet balanced and harmonious.

The palate, however, was where the wine really shone. The fruit characters and minerality were still evident, while there was enough acidity to keep the wine alive and fresh. The mouthfeel and texture were a highlight and the length and complexity noteworthy.

A brilliant wine that was appreciated by both the aficionados and novices in the room. The age of the wine adding to the occasion. Would the wine have been better 20 years earlier we will never know, but it would have been nowhere near as memorable!

Should We Age White Wines?

The question of how long to age wine is a complex one, with a number of factors influencing the outcome. These include

• Grape variety
• Origin (country, region, vineyard)
• Style
• Cellaring conditions
• Method of closure
• Track record of the producer
• Personal preference

Grape Variety

There is no hard and fast rule about what grapes age best.

• Riesling and Semillon from Australia have a long reputation of taking bottle age very well, transforming from fresh, vibrant wines into complex, mellow ones.
• The best Chardonnays age well, but style plays an important part here
• Varieties such as Chenin Blanc and Verdelho have a brilliant track record in the right hands
• I used to believe that Sauvignon Blanc (and SBS) from the new world did not age well, yet the advent of screw caps and the modification of style has changed my thoughts completely

Origin

A key component to making wines age-worthy is the amount of acidity in the wine. The acid tends to soften as the wine ages, meaning that low acid examples start to look flabby and flat.

Temperature and grape variety pay a key role here. Chardonnay or Riesling grown in very warm districts will struggle to maintain enough acid to warrant aging. Earlier ripening varieties such as Chenin Blanc however have excellent aging potential from warm regions like the Swan Valley, in the hands of the right producer.

Style

Some wines are made to be consumed earlier than others. Fruit quality as well as winemaking inputs can have an impact here. If you are not sure, go for producers with the best track record.

Cellaring Conditions

Cabernet and Shiraz in particular, seem to tolerate less than ideal conditions and still age well in the medium term. White wines do not seem as robust. That said, it may still be worth tucking away a few bottles of Riesling in a cooler part of the house for a few years.

Method of Closure

Screw cap is king. Cork adds another (unwanted) variable to aging wines. The best corks are remarkable. Unfortunately, with very old wines, you may go through a few duds along the way.

Track Record of the Producer

Not sure what whites to buy to tuck away for a few years? Go with the wineries that have a reputation for making wines that appreciate in the cellar.

Personal Preference

This is perhaps the most important point of all. If you are not accustomed to drinking old wine, you may not get as much joy as you might have thought . If you are not sure how long to keep a wine, in general, I would suggest erring on the side of caution.

A good wine opened a few years before its peak is still a good wine. A good wine that has been left too long may no longer offer drinking joy.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Ad Hoc – Hen and Chicken – 2014 (17.5 – 18).  Complex, yet harmonious nose. Grapefruit, peach and pineapple spring to mind, with a touch of Jasmine. Relatively tight and modern, the underlying ripe fruit builds with air. The acid balance here is excellent, and the creamy texture a highlight. Oak a touch noticeable, but this settles back with air. Excellent value. (RRP $22).

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2013 (17.6). (RRP $27). The pineapple-like fruit is more obvious here with flinty notes adding interest. Though rich and round, there is a degree of polish that elevates this above average. The quality oak adds texture and depth to close. Excellent current drinking.

Topper’s Mountain – Chardonnay Blend – Bricolage – 2013 (17.5). A nice wine this. On the nose, the relatively muted fruit touches on the tropical spectrum. With air, this opens to show stone fruit, hints of spice and rose water perfume. The palate is savoury and textured, with excellent length, persistence and mouth-feel. A smart wine that is a treat to drink and should partner Asian food very well. Did I mention the excellent packaging?

Bella Riva – Pinot Grigio – King Valley – 2013 (17). In a true Grigio style, where the savoury textural notes are emphasised and the fruit muted. Fresh and light bodied, this would be perfect with a caesar salad. Value! (RRP $16).

Shottesbrooke – Chardonnay – 1337 – NV (16.8). The mousse is quite foamy initially. There is a lovely clean, fresh nose. The palate is light and fresh, with fresh lemon-like acidity. I like the mouth-feel, even if there is not great depth to the fruit. The finish feels quite dry, making for a good value summer’s afternoon drink. Must be applauded for using a crown seal (beer cap) closure. (RRP $20).

Reviewed: 22^th February 2015

There were a number of highlights with this tasting.

The Cape Mentelle Cabernet is nothing short of spectacular, but it comes with a caveat. This is not a wine for the average drinker. It is very shy and tight, requiring coaxing to see its potential. For the patient few, with appropriate cellars, this wine will be spectacular in two decades’ time.

For me however, it was the great value and everyday reds that made the biggest impact. The Devil’s Lair Hidden Cave is a cracker, and no Cabernet out of McLaren Vale has a right to be as delicious as the Davey Estate from Shingleback!

At the bargain end of the spectrum, the Jameson’s Run, Red Knot (Shingleback) and Deep Woods offer great drinking for the price. These are fruit-forward styles made for early consumption, yet still possess decent length and mouth-feel.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.8+). This wine is all potential. Black fruits, chewy tannins and cedary oak. Superb texture, but the fruit is really closed and tight. There is great length and, with air, the fruit builds. This is a densely structured wine that needs years in the cellar to show its best. (RRP $105 but Kemenys have it for under$80).

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Davey Estate – Reserve – 2012 (17.8 – 18.3). A big, rich wine, yet this retains poise and balance. The palate is a highlight, as the silky fruit builds in the mouth, with plum and mocha notes to close. The fruit lingers and the focussed, persistent finish retains freshness. Will benefit from time in the bottle or an hour in the decanter, but is an excellent drink. From McLaren Vale. (RRP $23).

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Hidden Cave – 2012 (18). Initially this is quite closed, tight and restrained, with the supple, fine-grained oak and tannins blanketing the fruit.. With air, this opens up and builds showing black fruits and cassis, earthy notes and coconut (from the oak). This is balanced and elegant, using quality fruit. An hour in a decanter recommended. (RRP $23).

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Miamup – 2013 (17.8). This is a lovely wine. Precise fruit has been handled very well in the winery. The tannins are polished, the oak adds texture without being overt and the acidity keeps things fresh. There are dusty tannins to close. Mainstream and all the better for it. (RRP $28).

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2012 (17.7). Blueberries, redcurrant and licorice fruit. Excellent mouth-feel, but the finish is just a touch awkward now. Made in a style that allows the fruit to be the primary focus. Good Value. (RRP $15).

Jamesons Run – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – 2012 (17.5). Mulberry and red currant over souring plum fruit notes. This is a savoury, cooler region wine that has hints of cassis and spice from the oak. Personally, I would like more fruit weight in the middle palate, but this is a great value, uncomplicated, mid-week red. From the Limestone Coast. (RRP $15)

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Knot – 2013 (17.7). Good every day drinking, with soft approachable fruit and decent structure. Not complicated or serious, but there is generous, juicy fruit and decent length. Chewy tannins add to the structure. An easy drinking red that deserves to be popular. (Exclusive to Dan Murphy). (RRP $15).