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Pinot Noir – New Release – January 2015

Reviewed: 11th January 2015

Pinot Noir is the Holy Grail for many winemakers and consumers alike. Site selection is critical, as is the use of the best varietal clones in the vineyard.

Over the last decade, the overall quality of Australian (and New Zealand) Pinot Noirs has really lifted, with great efforts being taken to plant vineyards in the right (cooler) locations, as well as careful clonal selection to ensure that the fruit produced is of suitable quality. There has also been a refinement in the way the fruit is handled in the winery.

All of these factors, when added together, have resulted in a plethora of excellent (if not overly cheap) wines from the likes of the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Tasmania and Central Otago.

The wines reviewed below epitomize the results of this quest for excellence. From the good value Madfish to the truly outstanding wine from Coldstream Hills, all wines are worth exploring. From a value perspective, the Shaw & Smith straddles the middle ground between quality and price. Not cheap, but very good.

Reviewed

Coldstream Hills – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2013 (18.7+). Starts off quite closed in a more masculine style. There is no doubting the quality of the fruit here, but this is shrouded in a cloak of structure. That said, the tannins are very fine. Given air, the fruit builds and there is a herbal edge to add life and interest. Needs years to show its best, but will handsomely reward those who can cellar it. (RRP $85).

Hardys – Pinot Noir – Eileen Hardy – 2013 (18.3). A lighter style that, whilst relatively austere and one-dimensional now, has excellent fruit quality and superb wine-making. The way this builds in the mouth with air is a treat, developing complex, cool climate varietal characters. The dense fruit, earthy notes, excellent mouth-feel and great length make for a classic new-world Pinot. Just give it plenty of air if you are going to drink it now (RRP $95).

Shaw & Smith – Pinot Noir – 2013 (18+). Succulent sweet fruit, yet there is a savoury element, with earthy undertones. Opens with pretty, strawberry-like fruit on the palate, followed by souring, cherry/plum-like acidity. There is excellent length and persistence on the finish. This is a very impressive wine that whilst a joy straight out of the bottle, will age very well in the short-medium term. (RRP $45).

Madfish – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17). A sappy, savoury expression of Pinot. Lighter fruit weight, but with enough depth to elevate it above the ordinary. Smart wine, with the fruit building on the finish. A decent effort for a relatively cheap Pinot. (RRP $18).

Larry Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – December 2014

Reviewed: 1st January 2015

I must admit to getting a little confused by the wines released by Larry Cherubino. There is no question about quality; it is the vast array of wines that he produces that is hard to keep up with.

In this tasting, we had three wines under the flagship “Cherubino” label: Frankland River, Margaret River and Great Southern. Whilst the bottle shape changes from one to the next, the label does not. Interestingly the price also varies. At $49, the Great Southern is the cheapest whilst the Frankland River ($110) is the most expensive.

The Frankland River is truly a great wine, and must rank amongst the best Cabernets made in Western Australia in the last few years. Given the high cost of this wine, I was even more excited by a couple of the cheaper labels in the range. Both the Ad Hoc ($21) and the Pedestal ($25) offer outstanding value.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2012 (19). This brilliant wine opens with menthol and an almost licorice-like savoury twist to the nose. The blackcurrant fruit is initially subdued, but really builds with air. The palate is amazing for both the density of fruit and the elegance and balance. Powerful and complex, yet supple and lithe, the finish is long and fine. The fresh acidity and ever-so-fine tannins caress the tongue. Very long and persistent, this wine will continue to improve for many years. (RRP $110).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2012 (18+). (RRP $75). More savoury fruit notes here compared to the Frankland River. The palate is balanced and supple, the ripe fruit nicely complemented by texturing oak. There is excellent length and persistence, and the fruit builds with air. A savoury, textured wine of some charm.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Great Southern – 2012 (18). Souring fruit and acidity are a key part of this wine, ensuring that this will be an excellent pairing with food. The fruit is relatively subdued, but builds with air, showing raspberry and blueberry characters. The ripe tannins are a little firm at present, so another 5 years please. (RRP $49).

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2012 (18). Attractive fruit that initially appears quite generous. Then the very fine tannins and oak kick in on the mid-palate, closing down the fruit and carrying through to the finish. Really long, this will improve for 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $25).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Ad Hoc – Avant Gardening – 2013 (18). Dense fruit here. There are fresh red and blackcurrant notes, with a souring cherry lift. The palate is fine and elegant, with that souring fruit keeping everything fresh and lively. There is also a degree of generosity to the supple fruit that gives this immediate appeal. A lovely wine and great value. (RRP $21).

Chardonnay New Release – December 2014

Reviewed: December 22nd 2014

When it comes to white wines, Riesling is the undisputed value king. These are high quality wines that are very age-worthy, especially under screw caps. That said, for me at least, Chardonnay has the potential to be the greatest of all white wines.

The challenge is that there are many more variables involved, so winemaking takes on much greater significance. The use of oak, barrel fermentation, lees stirring and cold fermentation for example can all have a significant impact on the final product.

These variations result in a wide variety of styles being available. From the taut and restrained to the rich and creamy, as well as all variations in-between.

In this tasting, of the wines reviewed, the Drumborg from Seppelt sits at the leaner end of the spectrum. A superb wine, but one that needs a few years to start uncoiling. The Eileen Hardy and the Grace Farm happily occupy the middle ground, balancing fine, elegant fruit with enough richness to make them a great drink today.

At $30, the Grace Farm in particular stands out as being excellent value.

Reviewed

Hardys – Chardonnay – Eileen Hardy – 2013 (18.5). Complex, powerful nose with peach, melon and even a hint of exotic tropical fruits. The palate is seamless and, though the ripe fruit makes a presence, it shows a remarkable degree of restraint. A very fine wine that is remarkably approachable now. (RRP $95).

Seppelt – Chardonnay – Drumborg Vineyard – 2013 (18 – 18.5+). Closed and tight this wine only hints at potential on the nose. The palate opens with grapefruit characters that lead onto tingling acidity. The finish however is quite remarkable, being long and fine, and building real presence on the palate. A smart wine that needs a year or two in the cellar to start opening up, but will last for years to come. (RRP $40).

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2013 (18.3). Powerful, but a little awkward right now. Opens with grapefruit, melon and peach notes. The high quality fruit and oak have been well matched, with the acid and mineral characters on the finish providing drive. Needs a few years to settle, but will be a star (and will probably garner even higher scores). Not cheap. (RRP $280).

Grace Farm – Chardonnay – 2013 (18). This wine has both a lovely nose and palate, showing nectarine, white peach and grapefruit characters. Seamless, sophisticated, polished and very long, the mouth-feel is a highlight courtesy of the creamy lees and oak work, combined with precise acid balance. The length and persistence are excellent. A superior effort. (RRP $30).

New Release – December 2014

Reviewed: 20th December 2014

This was my first opportunity to try the wines of Tolpuddle. The Tolpuddle vineyard in Tasmania has been supplying fruit to some of Australia’s best chardonnays and pinots for a number of years. A recent change in ownership however (Shaw & Smith) has seen some wine made under their own label.

Reviewed

Louis Latour – Chardonnay – Macon – Villages – Chamaroy – 2012 (16.8). Light and fresh nose, but with subtle minerality sitting under the fruit. Quite viscous and with good length and mouth feel, but not overly deep. A simple, entry level White Burgundy, but an enjoyable drink. (RRP $20).

Felton Road – Chardonnay – Bannockburn – 2013 (17.9). Lovely nose to this wine with melon and spice over creamy, textural notes. The palate is long and supple, with the restrained oak and gentle lees work just keeping the fruit in check at present. Fine and elegant, this will evolve over the next 5 years. (RRP $50).

Tolpuddle – Chardonnay -2013 (17.8). Muted fruit on the nose (grapefruit and pineapple). The palate shows a leaner, racy style that lacks a bit of generosity now in part due to the very crisp acidity. That said, the potential is obvious. A tightly wound wine that is sure to score higher points once it has time to settle down (RRP $70).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2013 (18.5+). Aromas of minerals and spice over complex fruit and winemaking notes. The palate is superb, with curry leaf minerality over peach, nectarine, grapefruit and struck match notes. The length and persistence are outstanding, with a near seamless palate transition. Almost chewy, the nutty, complex fruit really builds on the finish. (RRP $60).

Pinot Noir

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2013 (18.5). (RRP $79). Lovely fruit on the nose, with cherry, strawberry, savoury plum and plenty of spice. The palate has tar, clove and aniseed hints to close. This is concentrated and powerful, though it has not quite come together as yet. Another year will see the high quality fruit fill out.

Tolpuddle – Pinot Noir – 2013 (18.3). Richer and rounder fruit, though the acidity on the finish is initially confronting. With air, the fragrant fruit really builds and this settles down and evolves into a dense, powerful wine of significant charm. Needs a year or two to start drinking well, but 5 – 10 years may be even better. (RRP $85).

Riesling Master Class – December 2014

Reviewed: 10th December 2014

When it comes to great Australian Rieslings, the Clare Valley and Eden Valley regions of South Australia are the spiritual homes. Grossett’s Polish Hill Riesling is considered one of Australia’s great wines and there have been many great wines have been released under the Leo Buring label.

If one wine has to be singled out, then the Leo Buring Leonay would be (for me at least) the most important of all Australian white wines. With a pedigree that spans many decades, these are legendary wines with a tremendous ability to age.

Of late though, the wines from the Great Southern in Western Australia have also been impressive. Many wines are released under the Great Southern moniker, though there are a number of subdistricts in the region. It is the wines from Porongurup and Frankland River that attract the most attention however.

In this tasting, we were lucky enough to taste a variety of excellent wines. The “standard” Leo Burings are excellent wines and represent great value, while the Leonay is a classic wine. It was, however, the wines from the Porongurup region that garnered the most attention. Brilliant wines.

When it comes Australian Riesling, it is clear to me that the Great Southern rivals the Clare and Eden Valley (and select Victorian sites like Drumborg) for sheer quality. One advantage that South Australia has though, is the ability to produce great wines at all price points.

So which is better? Both, but it is clear that the wines from the subdistricts of Polish Hill and Porongurup offer something that is just a little bit special.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongorup – 2014 (18.6). Delicate and fine, with hints of lemon. Restrained and taut, the palate is like a tightly coiled spring. The power is there, yet the wine is tight and compact now. This needs time to open up, but will be a joy with oysters now. Just a touch of residual sugar adds perfectly to the balance. (RRP $35).

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2014 (18.5). Smells like the Great Southern, but a touch more restrained. There are hints of lanolin, lantana and floral aromas. On the palate the citrus fruit bursts from the wine, leading on to minerals and slate-like characters. The finish is remarkable for the way the acid seamlessly integrates into the fruit, yet leaves a drying texture in the mouth. Very fine and long, this will be a star. (RRP $34).

Leo Buring – Riesling – Leonay DWQ18 – 2013 (18.5). Much more approachable than a lot of wines here, yet the fruit is spectacular. Fine citrus notes over floral characters and a slate-like minerality. The finish is very long and fine. A superstar and one that could be drunk anytime over the next 20 years. From Watervale.

Leo Buring – Riesling – Eden Valley – 2013 (18+). (RRP $20). Silky, tight, long and fine, there is lemony fruit on the nose and the wine slowly builds in the mouth, lingering long after swallowing. With lovely mouth-feel, there is talc like texture and depth to close. A great wine that, again, needs years to perform at its best.

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2014 (18.3). The balance here is the key. Not as overtly concentrated as the Cherubino or Howard Park, but excellent drinking and an interesting alternative to a SSB. At the core of this wine there is pretty fruit with minerals and fine acid. Builds with air, so sure to age. (RRP $25).

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2013 (18). Complex, minerals and spice, over lovely floral and citrus fruit notes. There is firm acidity, but the wine is very well balanced. There is a touch more phenolics to this wine, adding to its immediate appeal. Will age well. (RRP $35).

Howard Park – Riesling – Mt Barker – 2014 (17.9). (RRP $33). Very fine and restrained on the nose. The palate is tight, yet the quality of the fruit is spectacular and refined. Great length and mouth-feel, the acid and phenolics add to the balance.

Leo Buring –Riesling – Clare Valley – 2014 (17.5 – 18). (RRP $20). Lacks the sheer depth and balance of the best here, but that is underselling the quality of this wine. There is decent fruit and the acidity/balance is spot on. A touch of phenolic richness that adds body. Sure to age well.

Watershed Winery – November 2014

Reviewed: 5th November 2014.

Watershed has an interesting background. With the first vineyards planted in 2001, a key part of the strategy was the sale of small vineyard parcels to investors. Over time, the structure has changed to a shareholder model. I was surprised to hear that the total vineyard holdings now exceed 175 hectares (almost 60% white grapes).

Construction of the winery facilities started in 2001, with the most recent work being a storage facility completed in 2009.

Winemaking is headed up by Severine Logan, with three distinct ranges being produced. The entry level is the Shades range, which typically offers good everyday drinking. The next step up is the Senses range which, from my perspective at least, is the sweet spot in the range. The premium range is released under the Awakening range.

The RRP for the Senses range is $30, though the likes of Dan Murphy and Cracker have them significantly cheaper!

Reviewed

Watershed – Sauvignon Blanc – Senses – 2013 (17.2). This wine has a component of fruit that saw barrel ferment/lees work, and this adds depth and complexity to the nose. The fruit tends towards the grassy end of the spectrum, with lovely lemony acidity providing a backbone to carry the fruit. Almond meal and tropical hints fill out the palate. Smart (RRP $30).

Watershed – Viognier – Senses – 2010 (17+). I was surprised to see a five year old white available at the cellar door. Plenty of life and interest here. The initial apricot characters give way to a textural feast on the palate. Drying and savoury, I would prefer a bit more length on the finish, but an interesting and worthwhile wine. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Sangiovese – Senses – 2011 (17.7). This had enough savoury notes up front to grab my attention. Tobacco, spice, dried herbs sit over dense, structured fruit. The drying tannins hark back to the grape’s country of origin. The length and persistence are commendable. This will go a treat with rich food. True to style and worth seeking out. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Shiraz – Senses – 2012 (17 – 17.5). Pepper and spice to the fore here. This is a savoury wine with herbal notes running through the palate, though the fruit is ripe and of decent quality. With air, attractive red fruits start to poke through. This has just been released and needs a little time to settle, as the oak sits a little apart from the fruit on the finish. Quite a serious effort and one that is well suited to food. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Senses – 2011 (18). The contrast between this and the same blend in the Shades range is marked. Serious fruit and winemaking combine to make an excellent wine. Dense and structured, thought the tannins are fine and silky. The finish tightens up, with the drying tannins keeping the fruit in check. An excellent wine that is enjoyable now, but will also age very well. (RRP $30).

Watershed – Zinfandel – Senses – 2012 (18). Cherry fruit. Savoury, with licorice and earthy notes over plump, cherry-like fruit. Chocolate, dried plums and prunes on a palate that is chewy and textured. This is a big wine that demands attention. Excellent length and depth. Unapologetically a big wine that will have a lot of appeal to those looking for a big red. Delicious. (RRP $30).

Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – October 2014

Reviewed: October 23

There has been an evolution in the style of (Western) Australian blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon over the last few years. The overt fruit characters have become a little muted, whilst a proportion of barrel fermentation and lees stirring has become an increasingly common occurrence.

This is not to say that oak characters have become an obvious part of the style. In most cases, it is there only to add depth and complexity. In reality, the proportion of wine in a blend that sees oak is quite small. The inclusion of 5% to 20% of barrel fermented wine to the final blend is often enough to have a subtle, yet meaningful impact.

In this tasting, this was exemplified by the wine from Flametree.

Reviewed

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013 (17.7). A very impressive wine that balances high-quality ripe fruit with subtle, though complex winemaking. The palate is long and savoury, with the oak and lees characters adding texture rather than overt flavour. (RRP $25).

Sandalford – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Estate Reserve – 2013 (17.5). I like this wine for the balance of fruit and structure. Grassy and herbaceous, with a degree of depth, this has excellent length and mouth-feel. Quite delicious really. Slightly richer, with a touch of barrel ferment adding complexity.

MadfishPremium White – 2013 (17). Richer, more viscous, with depth to the fruit. Not overt, but a complex, though neutral wine that is better suited to food. Perhaps a small component of barrel ferment/lees fruit to add texture. Sensible residual sugar adds flesh to the mid palate. (RRP $18).

Xanadu – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Next Of Kin – 2014 (17). Grassy and herbaceous fruit on the nose. Refreshing and light palate, but with decent length and persistence. A lovely summer afternoon wine.

De Bortoli – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Sacred Hill – 2013 (16). Light and fresh, with a degree of viscosity and reasonable length on the finish. Whilst not a great wine, the $7 price tag makes this an option for the budget conscious. (RRP $7).

Flowstone Wines – October 2014

8th October 2014

Stuart Pym may not be a household name, but he has made wine (and beer) that many of us have enjoyed over the years. After a stint at Matilda Bay Brewery making beer, Stuart returned to Margaret River to pursue winemaking as a career.

Stuart spent time at Voyager Estate, before moving on to Devil’s Lair and then Suckfizzle/Stella Bella. Whilst still consulting to Suckfizzle, Stuart has now struck out on his own under the Flowstone label.

The winery is located in Forrest Grove, south of the Margaret River township, with the vineyard planted in 2004 and 2008. Fruit has been sourced from established vineyards around the region, selected for the style of wine that Stuart is trying to craft.

Early results are excellent. The wines tasted here are the second vintage released by the winery and, refreshingly, it is great to see both the whites and reds being released with a little bottle age, at a time when the likes of Penfolds are bringing forward the release of their premium wines.

I found the Chardonnays to be particularly interesting as they have been produced in quite different styles. The standard wine is rich and textured, with immediate appeal, whereas the Queen of the Earth is finer and more restrained. Again, the extra time in bottle is helping here.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Opens with a lovely nose that balances ripe fruit notes with complex, barrel-ferment characters. Complex, worked, textured and chewy on the palate, with struck-match complexity. Very long and powerful, this is a dense and expansive wine that is complemented by the barrel-ferment characters and the inclusion of 20% new oak. (RRP $35).

Flowstone – Chardonnay – Queen of the Earth – 2011 (18 – 18.5). Subtle and restrained by comparison to the standard wine. Very fine and long, with underlying power that is tightly controlled. There is clearly very high quality oak here, but this does not dominate the fruit. Citrus characters to close. Will improve with another year or two in bottle. From the wineries “Home Vineyard”, the oak is 50% new and 50% 1 year old. (RRP $55).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). More fruit intensity on the nose compared to the red blend. The palate is textured, chewy and vibrant, with ample tannins coating the finish. Quite a powerful wine that needs a big steak or a few years in the cellar, but does benefit from the extra couple of years in bottle. A serious wine that spent 3 years in oak (100% new). (RRP $75).

 

Chardonnay – New Release – September 2014

Reviewed 21st September 2014

It was great to see the Patterson’s Vineyard name appearing on the label of the 3 Drops Chardonnay. The Patterson family produced excellent wines for years under their own label, before selling the business for personal reasons (situated in the Mt Barker region).

The Wynns Chardonnay is a continuation of the excellent value wines produced under this label (Dan Murphy has the 2012 listed for $12!).

Reviewed

 

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Meursault – Les Chevalieres – 2010 (17.7 – 18.2). Smells like fine burgundy. Minerals and steely fruit, with grapefruit and lemon zest over white peach. Whilst quite restrained, the power of the fruit is impressive, with all of the minerality that you would expect. There is real depth here and great length. The palate fans out finishing with complex, mealy notes and hints of toast. Super wine to drink now. (RRP $60).

Victory Point – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5 – 18). A smart wine, in a chablis-like style. Not overly intense in the mid palate, but has all the minerality and complex struck-match/barrel-ferment characters that you would expect from a quality wine. The length of flavour is a feature. A smart wine to be drunk over the next few years. (RRP $45).

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2013 (17.8). A modern, elegant style that has quite a complex, and quietly powerful nose, showing peach and grapefruit-like characters. Mid-weight, with high quality fruit, this has excellent presence in the mouth. Not overly complex as yet, but well handled in the winery. A serious wine that needs time to show its best. (RRP $46).

Talisman – Chardonnay – Gabrielle – 2012 (17.8). Wow, the nose here is impactful. Peach, stonefruit, grapefruit, minerals, spice, complex flint and struck-match notes. The palate is near seamless and very complex. Everything is in the right place. Yes, this is a powerful, worked wine, yet it retains freshness and poise. Excellent length of flavours with a touch of toasted oak to close.

3 Drops – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.5+). This is quite tart right now, but will be a very good wine in time. Lively, lemony, long, fresh and complex, the fruit builds depth with air. The fruit for this wine comes from the old Patterson’s Vineyard, which produced some excellent wines in earlier times.

Henri Boillot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – 2012 (17.4). Tight and restrained, with quite serious fruit that has been well handled. This is a more restrained style, with acidity and subtle oak driving the finish.

Wynns – Chardonnay – 2014 (17.3). Lovely, perfumed nose with scents of orange blossom, over crisp stonefruit and hints of passionfruit. The palate is pure grapefruit, with the youthful acidity providing focus. Linear now, but in time this will fill out. Good Value.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – September 2014

15th September 2014

While Western Australian Cabernets made up the bulk of the wines in this tasting, Coonawarra was not to be outdone, with the Wynns Alex 88 making a real statement.

This is the first single vineyard Wynns that I can remember, and it certainly made me sit up and pay attention.

Reviewed

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alex 88 – Single Vineyard – 2010 (18.7). Closed and tightly coiled, the nose only hints at potential at first. Opens to reveal perfumed red fruit with briary blackcurrant and blueberry overtones. On the palate the fruit is quite subdued, but the quality is palpable. The tannins are extraordinarily fine, but do close down the fruit. Give it an hour in the decanter or a decade in the cellar. With air, the supple, ripe fruit comes to the fore, with a savoury twist to close. Outstanding. (RRP $80).

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2011 (18.5). Intense blackcurrant fruit with a touch of cassis. The palate is firm and muscular, with the fruit held in check. That said this is refined and elegant, the extraordinarily fine tannins are prodigious, though not aggressive. Will be a superstar with time in the cellar. (RRP $85).

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Serious fruit quality combined with serious (expensive) winemaking. This is a textural delight. The fruit is relatively suppressed, but will blossom with time. Dense and powerful, yet the supple texture makes this so easy to drink. Elegant! (RRP $62).

A to B – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18). Lovely peppermint and eucapytpus fruit characters, reminiscent of Coonawarra. The palate is initially taut, though the quality fruit opens on the mid palate. There is decent depth and excellent length. Cedar and hints of spice round out the finish on an impressive wine. From Western Australia’s Great Southern Region.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Frank/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot – Olmo’s Reward – 2012 (18). Pretty red fruits abound on both the nose and palate. This is a lovely wine that combines ripe (though elegant) fruit with fine tannins and stylish winemaking. The fruit carries to a finish that is long and supple. This will provide great enjoyment now or any time over the next 10 years. (The new label also looks great). (RRP $45).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.9). Herbal notes over dark, brooding, briary fruit. The palate is dense and almost opulent, with silky tannins and oak. This is a smart wine that will only get better with a few years in the bottle. Well made and a modern expression of Great Southern Cabernet (RRP $37).

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – 2012 (17). A smart wine that values elegance over opulence, suggesting a portion of cooler region fruit was included in the blend. Elegant and refined, with decent length. Not overly complex, but ticks all the boxes. Sure to get even better with a few years in the bottle. (RRP $15, but I picked this up from Kemeny’s for $8).