Category Archives: Wine Review

Other Reds – New Release

Reviewed: 25 October 2011

Not many of the wines made it through to this review, but the wines that did are all worthy of a look. The Angove – Butterfly Ridge is nothing more than a pleasant quaff. At RRP of $6.99 however, this is a great entry level wine.

The Grant Burge is a very good wine that, whilst not cheap, is good value all the same. Finally, The Hidden Cave by Devil’s Lair is a new label to me, but the wine is very smart.

Reviewed

Grant Burge – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – The Holy Trinity – 2008 (17.8). This wine has excellent (old vine?) fruit quality. The nose is packed with bright fruit, though there is a dusty/savoury note that adds complexity. The palate has ripe fruit that is not over done. Powerful, dense and rich, the length is very good. The palate is shut down by fine tannins, but this is a wine of some potential. Chocolate fruit with mulberry, cherry and cedary spice to close.

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Hidden Cave – 2010 (17.5). Pretty smart wine this. The cabernet fruit provides the structure and body to this wine, whilst the shiraz provides fruit lift on the finish and hints of plum and spice. Silky tannins and good length make this an excellent short term drinker. Round and soft palate.

Purple Hands Wines – Grenache – Old Vines – 2010 (17.5). Pretty wine, with floral aromas over subtle savoury notes. Really silky and fine, this has excellent length and persistence. The palate really goes on and on. Impressive, dense, old vine fruit with latent power.

Koltz – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Etruscan – 2009 (17.2). Dense, though with some dusty, savoury notes that add a degree of authenticity. Cherry, plum and vibrant fruit with a long and savoury finish. This is smart, though relatively uncomplicated at the moment. Chewy texture to close and creamy oak adds to the finish.

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – Seventy Six – 2010 (17.2+). There is a core of sweet fruit running through the nose. Plum, strawberry and hints of vanilla courtesy of the oak. Chocolate fruit on the palate with fine, though firm, tannins to close and good texture. Smart wine that will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.3). Fresh plum fruit that is simple yet appealing. Soft fruit with enough structure to keep the palate fresh. A well made commercial wine.

Barossa Red Blends

Last Sunday Tasting Group

Reviewed: 25 June 2011

For regular readers of this column, you will know that this tasting is the highlight of my tasting month. The combination of good friends, fine wine and lovely food is very compelling.

The theme this month was Barossa blends from 2004 or earlier. In my mind, I was thinking GSM type blends, but in retrospect, these blends have become a lot more common in recent years. So the tasting had a fair smattering of cabernet/shiraz blends.

The tasting served to remind me of just how good these blends are, delivering the structure of cabernet, with the richness of shiraz. I am not sure why we have become fixated on single vineyard wines from a single variety. This uniquely Australian blend is fantastic.

Thanks to Kerry and Norbert for a lovely meal!

Reviewed

Rockford – Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro – Moppa Springs 1998 (18.5). Superb nose on this. Leather, spice, plum, chocolate and coffee bean add up to a complex and alluring nose. The palate is velvety and long. Fully mature and drinking an absolute treat.

Spinifex – Grenache/Shiraz/Cinsault/Mataro – Esprit – 2002. (18.5). Very dense, old vine fruit. Rich and textured, the nose shows Christmas cake, coffee and chocolate pudding. The superb fruit is evident on the palate. This is textured, complex and very long. There is a savoury spiciness to close. Lovely wine.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Reserve – 1990 (18.3). Like The Signature, shows plenty of earth and leather, with just enough barnyard characters to add real interest. The palate is very powerful and shows lovely dense fruit of real quality. The fruit is remarkably tight for a 21 year old wine.

Deisen – Shiraz/Mouvedre – Winter Sun – 2003/2004 (18+). Really complex wine with earthy components, leather, spice and sweet plummy fruit. Long, dense, fine and textured, the palate is quite superb. I have not seen any Deisen wines before, but this unorthodox blend of vintages works a treat.

Rosemount – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – 2001 (18). Fragrant and floral, with a hint of raspberry jam to the sweet ripe fruit. The palate is spicy, supple, textured and very long, with a core of ripe fruit running the length of the palate. Not quite on theme as this is a three region blend.

Grant Burge – Shiraz/Viognier – Balthasar – 2002 (17.8). Earthy/meaty notes to open, with a lovely floral/candied lift coming from the viognier and the vanillin oak. The palate shows licorice, spice, cinnamon and plum. Good mouth-feel, balance and texture. Good acidity to close.

Penfolds – Mouvedre/Grenache/Shiraz – Old Vines – 1992 (17.8). Aged and leathery with developed tarry notes. Lovely mouth-feel, texture and excellent length. This has thrown a big crust.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Signature – 2001 (17.8). Fragrant, floral and quite delicious. The perfumed fruit is really quite fantastic. Again, there are the leather and earthy notes, but this is more medium bodied than some here. Cabernet adds to the structure and provides some tobacco and eucalypt notes.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – The Signature – 1990 (17.7). Supple and silky, showing tar and leather with hints of spice and plum. The palate is earthy and complex, with a touch of herbal/tobacco leaf flavours courtesy of the cabernet. A savoury wine that has plenty of life left in it.

Charles Melton – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Nine Popes – 1997 (17.5). Mature and developed, though the palate is still quite lively. An excellent drink.

Veritas – Shiraz/Mataro (pressings) – Bulls Blood – 2002 (17.5). Fresh red berries on a lovely nose that is dense and complex. Wafts of American oak in no way detract from the fruit. The palate highlights the excellent quality fruit. This is a generous and rich wine that is textured and long. Youthful tannins to close.

New Release Imports

Reviewed: 30 January 2013

An interesting point came up for discussion during the tasting came when one panellist berated me for not giving the white Burgundies higher points. He pointed out that the wines had only recently landed and will undoubtedly be better in a month or two’s time when they have settled.

The problem with this view is that I can only assess what is in my glass and compare that to my personal frame of reference. Perhaps my points are a little low, but this is better than having them too high.

Another point was made in regards to the points that are given to Australian wines. It was suggested that these wines were significantly better than many Australian wines and therefore should get higher points. I would counter with the view that the wines are different. A $30 Australian chardonnay scoring 17.5pts is, in my mind at least, the equal of a Burgundy scoring 17.5pts. That the wines are stylistically different does not diminish my enjoyment for both.

Indeed, I would suggest that for the average consumer who does not try many French wines, the Australian wine will be more enjoyable. We are naturally influenced by our past experiences and what we are familiar with.

This is the beauty of wine; it can be all things to all people!

A fascinating tasting of high quality wines.

White Burgundy

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.8). Restrained and tight, this is a lovely wine with really potential. There are hints of pineapple, grapefruit and pineapple on the nose in quite a modern style. Very long, slightly viscous, yet not cloying, with a lovely minerality to the fruit on the palate. The acid and oak are well judged and the oak is high quality.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault-Charmes – 2010 (17.8). Minerals and curry leaf over peach, nectarine, cashew nut and citrus fruit characters. The palate matches the nose perfectly, with intense, yet refined fruit matched to high quality oak. Seamless and creamy, the finish is a treat.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Meursault – La Barre – 2010 (17.7). Restrained on the nose compared to the Puligny. This is an elegant wine of some charm. The fruit is remarkably long and is carried by grapefruit like acidity. The length here is outstanding as is the mouth-feel and texture. The fruit builds and evolves and there are minerals and nutty fruit on the finish. A few years would only help this wine.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Puligny Montrachet – Les Chalumeaux – 2010 (17.5+). Lean and angular, this is a wine for another day. It really needs time to fill out and expand on both the nose and the palate. Perhaps from a cooler year, the structure and acidity are excellent. In terms of descriptors, the wine shows lemony fruit and acid, stonefruit, grapefruit, melon and mealy complexity.

Thiery et Pascale Matrot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2008 (17.5+). Quite forward fruit on the nose combined with strong minerality, curry leaf and almond meal. The palate is very rich and round, showing more of the mineral characters, lemon zest, almond meal and complex, struck match and flint highlights. Not for the faint hearted, this is a rich white Burgundy.

Domaine Jean Monnier & Fils – Chardonnay – 1er Cru – Meursault – Genevrieres – 2010 (17.5) Creamy fruit on the nose, with minerals and spice. Somewhat developed and honeyed, but the acid is still fresh and keeps the palate alive. Long and succulent, this is a good wine that opens and evolves. There is a touch of vanillin oak to close. A Subtle, yet abundant wine with excellent length.

Assorted Red Wines

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey-Chambertin – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2010 (17.8+). More density here. Powerful, spicy fruit with hints of licorice, clove and even star anise. Long and savoury, this is a step up in terms of fruit density and quality. Textured, long and almost chewy, this is a quality wine. Needs time.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.8). Lovely nose showing ripe, fragrant fruit. The palate is more about structure and spice than ripe fruit. There is excellent length and depth to the quality fruit and the texture really fleshes out with air. An excellent Fixin from a producer to watch out for.

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – 1er Cru – Givry – Clos Saint Pierre 2009 (17.3). Initially tight and restrained, this opens to show perfumed fruit on the nose and palate, with spice, cherry and plum over cedar. The fruit is not overly dense, but it is ripe and the wine is well made.

Domaine Des Combiers – Gamay – Fleurie – La Cadole – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Fragrant and lively fruit on the nose, with red berries and gentle spice. The palate is fresh, light, succulent and juicy. There are savoury hints to close on an easy drinking and quite delicious red wine. This may have seen some carbonic maceration to add more life to the fruit.

Domaine La Cabotte – Cotes du Rhone – 2008 (17). Clean and fresh, with dense dark fruits. Think licorice, spice, cinnamon and cherry. The palate is textured and spicy , with little oak influence, but really deap tasting fruit. Smart wine.

Chardonnay – New Release

24 May 2010

There is a movement out there called ABC (Anything But Chardonnay), but I believe that this has no relevance these days. Fifteen years ago Australian chardonnays tended to be very ripe and rich. They made up in power what they lacked in sophistication.

As a rule, Australia now makes a much finer style that is more balanced and restrained. This has lead to a variety of styles from the various regions producing chardonnay. This tasting highlighted the quality of the wines superbly, with Frankland, Victoria and Margaret River all providing wines of quality.

For those of you who avoid chardonnay, please get hold of a bottle of the Galafrey unwooded chardonnay. This has the liveliness of an SSB, but with a different flavour spectrum.

Tasted

Forest Hill – Chardonnay 2008 (18.1). Wow, this smells really familiar yet is quite intriguing. The nose has sticking plaster, mineral, spice and a touch of antiseptic (a good thing). Well judged oak complements the flinty palate. This is balanced, textured and dense. High quality fruit is complemented by fine oak. Almost burgundian.

Shadowfax – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.9). More lemon and subtle barrel ferment characters here. Creamier on the palate, with more of the lemony oak and fresh acid, Needs a year or two to settle down, but excellent. Excellent mouth-feel and texture with a touch of grapefruit to close.

Forest Hill – Chardonnay – Block 8 – 2007 (17.7). Minerals, lees, barrel ferment and stonefruit lead a complex nose. Some curry leaf too. This is complex, with high quality fruit and excellent oak handling. The long and supple finish really lingers with very tight oak influence. This is quite tight and will improve for a few years.

MadFish – Chardonnay – Sideways – 2009 (17.7). Closed to start. Wow, this has it all, with lemon, stonefruit, creamy oak that is very fine and lovely mouth-feel. Very restrained and very modern, this has good length. May develop more complexity with a year or two in bottle.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.5+). This is very young and closed. The high quality fruit is very fine and elegant. There is a density to the palate that only opens with plenty of air. This may well be a star, but it is too soon to know. We tend to think of red wines when it comes to decanting, but this is a great example of a white to decant now or cellar for several years.

Galafrey – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2008 (17.4+) Fresh, with lemon zest, peach and topical notes on the nose. The palate has lovely cashew nut fruit and a mealy texture. A touch of viscosity from lees adds interest. Well made and sure to improve with a year or two in bottle.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Verse One – 2009 (17.2). This is complex and interesting. Lemon and grapefruit to start, and it develops really peachy fruit. Restrained oak helps with the texture and mouth-feel. Very good value.

Galafrey – Semillon – Reserve – 2009 (17+). Rounded, generous and mouth-filling, with plenty of grassy fruit. There is a touch of viscosity and good length. Fresh fruit to close, this will get better. (I accidentally slipped this into the line-up, and it did very well considering).

Angove – Chardonnay – Limestone Coast – 2008 (16.8). This is quite good again. The fruit is of good quality and has been handled well. The oak grip on the finish is a touch assertive right now.

Ferngrove – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.8). Balanced, soft and rounded. Creamy, soft and fine. This is a good drink.

Galafrey – Chardonnay – Unwooded – 2009 (16.8). Almost sauvignon blanc-like, this is so fresh and tropical. Uncomplicated, refreshing and lively on the palate, this is a great alternative to a SSB. Bring on spring.

Windrush – Chardonnay – 2009 (16.7). Fresh and a touch floral. This has a vibrant palate with some citrus and tropical fruit. Oak not obvious.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.7). Closed but this has quite a lemony nose. Almost lemon meringue pie. Starts of with good fruit and finishes with lemony oak, fresh acid, vanilla and plenty of zest.

Windrush – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.6). A well made wine from start to finish. This is varietally correct and good drinking. Could do with a touch more fruit concentration.

MadFish – Chardonnay – Gold Turtle – 2009 (16.5). This is just too young now. There are quality components, but they have not come together yet.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2009 (16.5). This is a sound, well made wine. If Organic is your thing, then this is a good place to start.

Chardonnay – New Release

16th July 2009

The usual panel got together for 21 new chardonnays. The distinguishing feature of the tasting was the modern style in which they were made. Gone are the fat, blousy and heavily oaked wines from the 1990s. These wines are lean, tight and fresh. Oak is mainly in the background, and french oak is the order of the day. Most of the wines need at least a year or two to flesh out and show their best. The most startling wine was the Rosemount Roxburgh, which is as far removed from the wines of the early 1990s as night is from day.

The down side of this change in style is that the wines are not as approachable young, and tasting 21 in a little over an hour is hard work indeed. A winery to watch is Xabregas. their show reserve wines look promising. If they are priced sensibly ($30) they will represent good buying.

Tasted

  1. Moss Wood – Moss Wood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5/18+)
  2. Plantagenet – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5)
  3. Xabregas – Show Reserve – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.5)
  4. Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3)
  5. Rosemount – Roxburgh – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.2+)
  6. Singlefile Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.1)
  7. 3 Drops – Chardonnay – 2007 (17)
  8. Higher Plane – South by South West – Chardonnay – 2006 (16.9)
  9. Singlefile Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.8)
  10. Vistamar – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7)
  11. Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7)
  12. Xanadu – Next of Kin – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.6)
  13. Plantagenet – Omrah – Chardonnay – 2008 (16. 5)
  14. Hardy’s – The Gamble – Chardonnay/Pinot Gris – 2008 (16.5)
  15. Capel Vale – Regional series – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5)
  16. Charlies Origins – Chardonnay – 2006 (16.5)
  17. Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5)
  18. Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.3)
  19. Xanadu – Dragon – Chardonnay – 2008 (16).
  20. Saracen Estate – Chardonnay – 2007 (16).
  21. Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2008 (14.5)

Results

Moss Wood – Moss Wood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5/18). Whilst this wine started more austere than most here, it really opened up with a bit of time. Has everything really, serious fruit, excellent oak and all the usual winemakers inputs (barrel ferment, lees contact etc). At this stage the oak is a little dominant at the finish, but this will settle down. The palate has the lot with pineapple fruit and vanillin oak to close. Needs 3-5 years. .

Plantagenet – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.7+). Complex and tight nose. The palate has lovely almonds, apricots and melons. Grapefruit acidity to close. Oak subdued. Young but exciting. This will be even better with time. Much better the next day.

Xabregas – Show Reserve – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.5). Worked and complex. The palate is viscous with peach fruit. Vanillin oak adds complexity. On the palate, this is a bit hard to gauge, as the acid is very dominant right now. Nice texture and quality fruit. Toasty oak to close. Even better the next day.

Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3). Almond and spice on the nose with supple oak support. The palate is closed but has a nice creamy texture. Complex and well worked, this needs a few years to blossom. Zesty acid to close.

Rosemount – Roxburgh – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.2+). Closed to start with. This is rich, textured and long. Excellent fruit quality here, a modern wine that has been well worked. Needs a few years to settle down, as the oak finish is a little clunky.

Singlefile Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.1). Closed to start. Pineapple fruit, typical of the Mendoza clone common in WA. The palate is attractive, with a rich nutty mouth feel. I felt the oak grip detracted from finish

3 Drops – Chardonnay – 2007 (17). Quite Burundian, with minerals and a touch of curry leaf. The palate is dominated by grapefruit, and has a spicy long finish. Fruit builds in the mouth. Lean now, will be better in a year or two.

Higher Plane – South by South West – Chardonnay – 2006 (16.9). Clean and ripe on the nose, this has some serious fruit. Well made, with pineapple to close. Could have had better oak use.

Singlefile Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.8). Perfumed nose with creamy stone fruit and pineapple. The palate is clean fresh but closed, and the finish is long and quite tight. Perhaps a touch of sweetness to close (not a bad thing). The finish, but this may settle.

Vistamar – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7). Really divided the room. I felt it was quite creamy and complex, with a palate that is textured and long. The acid swamps the fruit now. Melons, peach and nectarine to close. Worth a try at $10.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7). Subdued fruit, but complex and creamy. Nice citrus and nuttiness. The palate remains very acidic, tight and long. Give it lots of air.

Xanadu – Next of Kin – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.6). Clean and fresh on the nose with vibrant, zesty fruit. The palate is quite long with musk, grapefruit, cinnamon and spice. The wine is lean and modern and nicely worked.

Plantagenet – Omrah – Chardonnay – 2008 (16. 5). More complex than some unwooded chardonnays. The palate is quite long and bright. Some almond meal to close. Good stuff for an unwooded wine.

Hardy’s – The Gamble – Chardonnay/Pinot Gris – 2008 (16.5). Did not show much on the nose, but the palate is full of fruit. The pinot gris adding significant viscosity to the palate. Quite long but lacks focus. Why the blend?

Chardonnay – New Release

5th July 2009

Tasted

Results

Vasse Felix – Heytsbury – Chardonnay – 2007 (18+) Touch of curry leaf to the minerals that dominate the nose, with cashew paste adding complexity. Creamy and textured palate with a silky mouth feel. Excellent finish and very long. Shy now, but has good potential. Oak adds to finish. Very good fruit. Terry thought the tropical/pineapple fruit was typical of the mendoza clone. Will get even better.

Palmer – Chardonnay – 2006 (18). Closed, but hints at complexity. The palate is textbook Chardonnay – mealy, creamy, complex and seamless. The finish is long with lemony acid. Excellent mouth feel and weight. Not cheap, so perhaps the Heytsbury is a better buy.

Millbrook – Limited release – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.9) Creamy and complex nose. Fantastic palate on this. Creamy, complex and textured. Seamless and very fine. Lovely oak to close. Crisp, long and linear.

Repertoire – Shim – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5+) A real surprise hear. The nose is subtle and fresh, though a bit closed. On the palate this is clean fresh and vibrant with a zesty finish. There is a touch of sherbet. It will evolve over the next 2-3 years. Excellent fruit, balance and persistence in a restrained style.

Clairault – Estate – Chardonnay 2006 (17). Closed and quite dumb on the nose. Clean and fresh, with peachy fruit. More support from the others who found it lean, tight and intense. Not me, though it is good

Wise – Reserve – Chardonnay 2006 (17). Young, closed and complex. The palate has nutty fruit. A leaner style that has very good fruit, with a lean and drying finish. Acid in check

Hutton – Tryptich – Chardonnay 2007 (17) A Complex wine. the nose has minerals and a touch of earth. The crème brule finish overpowers the subtle fruit. Should integrate

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.8). A touch coarse by comparison.The palate is forward with lemony acid, but lacks fruit weight and complexity.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.8). Quite complex on the nose. Leads with minerals and a nutty, almond meal texture. The palate is zesty and a bit firm now, and the oak grip is a touch obvious now. Should improve in a year or two.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.5).

Leaping Lizard – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5) I was the only supporter. Very young and pale. Clean vibrant fruit. The palate is clean fresh and a touch simple, with sherbet and vanilla brule to close. May develop ..

Pierre Naigeon – Bourgogne – Chardonnay – 2006 (16). Entry level white burgundy. quite typical, and worth trying if you are new to the style. (A Dan Murphy direct import)

Cabernet and Friends

New Release

Reviewed: 6 January 2013

Cabernet based wines must surely be the King of wines. Powerful, structured and majestic, their ability to age is second to none when it comes to red wine. This power was certainly on display during this tasting, though the expression varied. In some, the power was overt, while in others, there was latent power wrapped up in a cocoon of silky fruit.

In the first category, the wines included the Deep Woods and Killerby. Powerful wines that stand up and make their presence felt. The second group was typified by the Moss Wood and Faber. Elegant, restrained wines that have supple, fragrant fruit. In a large line-up of wines, it is easy to overlook these wines as they are all about elegance and supple balance, rather than in-your-face tannins and oak.

It took a couple of days for the second group to really hit their peak, but the result was beautifully fragrant wines of charm and style. Bravo!

Reviewed

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18+). Mint/menthol, eucalypt and herbal notes on the nose. The palate is chewy, textured and long. The tannins are firm and the oak is sitting over the fruit at present. Opens with air to show blackcurrant, cedar and eucalypt, with hints of bitter chocolate, coffee and spice to close. A structured, angular wine that, while a touch raw now, will be superb in 10 years. A high quality wine.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2010 (18). Closed and brooding, this is an assertive wine that has plenty of extract and grip. The length is good, while the persistence is outstanding. The wine is remarkably silky up front, though this is difficult to drink now due to the firm finish. 10 – 15 years should see this hitting its peak. With air, there are intense, ripe berry flavours with a touch of tea leaf savouriness. A serious wine for the long haul.

Wolf Blass – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Malbec – Black Label – 2008 (18). Beautiful colour. Leads off with hints of varnish and resin on the nose from the oak. This blows off to show ripe, though restrained fruit on the nose. The palate has ripe, but firm fruit, with red fruits, cedar and spice. The length is prodigious and the tannins firm and drying. The oak is ever present on the finish. Complex, structured and tannic, this opened up over several days to show lovely, fragrant fruit. No apologies required for being made in the Wolf Blass style.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18). Subtle fruit and oak on the nose. Everything about this speaks quality. The refined winemaking has resulted in elegant fruit being well matched to silky oak. The tannins are polished, though noticeable, while the finish is precise. The length is very good and the mouth-feel evolves for some time after the last sip, with a touch of mocha characters to close. This is an intense wine with essence-like fruit. With air the blackcurrant, eucalypt and herbal notes really shine.

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Metricup Road – 2010 (17.8). Spice to open on the nose with cedar over a core of ripe, mid-weight fruit. This is a structured, textural wine that has little in the way of primary fruit. Opens and builds with air, but some patience is required. There is no doubting the quality, it is just that there is no joy as yet. Give it plenty of air or, better yet, 5 – 10 years in the cellar to show its best.

Moss Wood – Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2010 (17.7). Wow, the lovely perfumed fruit leaps out of the glass. This is redolent of blackcurrant, cedar and spice. There is even a hint of fruitcake. The palate is beautifully ripe and precisely weighted. The fruit is balanced by very fine tannins and savoury, texturing oak. The length is excellent and the fruit flavours build and evolve for some time. The finish is near seamless, though there is a touch of grip to close. Will age well, but is absolutely delicious now.

Faber Vineyard – Malbec – Dwellingup Vineyard – 2011 (17). The colour is almost crimson/purple. This is very deep smelling, with blueberry and raspberry over mint, with briary, earthy undertones. The souring finish adds life, though there is a touch of astringency on the close (that softens noticeably with air). This wine has excellent quality fruit that has been massaged in the winery, resulting in a pretty wine full of subtlety.

Faber Vineyard – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Overt nose that shows very pretty, ripe fruit and well-handled oak. The palate on the other hand is firm and quite tannic. There are also plum and mulberry jam components. After a day on the tasting bench, this really softened, allowing the pretty, fragrant fruit to shine. Whilst ideal for lovers of a big red now, this will be much better with a few years in the cellar. Diam cork closer.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Juniper Crossing – 2010 (17.3). Not in the “typical” cab/merlot style as this is a big, powerful cabernet with rich fruit and firm tannins. The oak sits over the fruit on the finish, further accentuating the structure. Chewy, this is a wine that I would prefer to see again in another 5 years.

Angove – Merlot – Long Row – 2011 (16.3). Plump, soft fruit with good attack. Redcurrant and spice lead on to a somewhat developed palate. (This is also reflected in the colour). Soft, round and generous, with no rough edges. The lack of fruit intensity can easily be forgiven at this price. An easy drink.

Cabernet and Blends – New Release

Reviewed: 12 December 2012

A large bracket of cabernet based wines makes for a tiring tasting. The firm tannins and relatively reserved fruit present a challenge. This was typified by the wines from Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle. Both are obviously high quality, though they really need several (many) years in the cellar to show their best.

By comparison, the Devil’s Lair was much more approachable. This is a superb wine that whilst very age-worthy, is a lovely drink today.

Finally, the Long Row is another bargain from Angove.

Reviewed

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Inky fruit here! Expect mint, spice and red fruits with a touch of eucalypt to reflect its cooler region origins. There is blackcurrant fruit on the palate and the wine has been superbly made. The oak, whilst shutting the fruit down on the finish somewhat, is supple and sympathetic to the mid-weight fruit. The tannins are refined and precise on the finish, making this an excellent drink now or in ten years +.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2010 (17.9). A closed nose only hinting at potential, with violets and blueberry aromas developing in the glass. It is on the palate that this really shows its class with fine fruit and refined winemaking. Elegant and reserved, this is a wine that needs plenty of air or 10 years in the cellar to show its best. The finish is quite tight courtesy of the very fine oak and tannins. A leaner style that will evolve. (This took 5 days on the tasting bench to really open up).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders 2011 (17.7+). There are hints of succulent fruit here, however this is quite reserved and tight on first presentation. There are firm tannins, dense fruit and a touch of spice too. The depth on the palate with brambly blackcurrant fruit, structural oak and excellent length, is a highlight. Whilst this is on the third rung of the Cape Mentelle quality ladder, this is a serious, high quality wine that deserves time in the cellar. Excellent buying at under $25, but give it plenty of air if you are going to drink it soon.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Hannah’s Hill – 2011 (17.6). Dense fruit on a nose that is ripe and alluring, yet still quite tight. The fruit is quite bright, showing cassis and minty notes. The palate is quite firm and austere, suggesting that this wine needs a few years to reach its drinking window. We had this as the first wine of the tasting, which is always difficult when the wines are tannic.

Marri Wood Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Appealing aromas of red and blueberry fruit, with a touch of eucalypt and new oak (cedar and coconut). There is dense, ripe fruit, with supple tannins that coat the mouth. There is excellent length and mouth-feel to close. I assume the “Reserve” title is due to the amount of time this wine spent in new oak. Time will tell whether the medium-weight fruit will fully integrate with the oak, but this is an appealing wine all the same.

Galafrey – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.4). I like the balance here. The good quality fruit has been matched well to fine-grained oak. The tannins are ripe and fine while the fruit expresses itself on the finish. The palate is long and succulent, with chewy tannins to close. Perhaps a touch rustic, but an enjoyable wine.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2010 (16.9). Ripe fruit that is forward and succulent. The palate is quite simple, but balanced and supple. A good, early drinking style, with very fine tannins and a hint of oak. Not overly concentrated, but this is varietally correct. At under $10, this is another screaming bargain from the team at Angove. (This received a gold medal from one taster).

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot -2011 (16.5). Ripe fruits with a touch of menthol and sweet oak on the nose. This is a relatively straightforward wine that is very easy to drink. The tannins are supple and add texture to the finish.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed: 5 September 2012

 

A strong line up of wines here. There are many that are worthy of mention, but the two that I will single out are the Howard Park Miamup and the Parker Terra Rossa. Both are excellent and represent very strong value for money.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block Reserve – 2009 (18+). I struggled with the power of this initially. It is a big wine with precise, ripe fruit that has been expertly handled. The density of the fruit is superb and the finish extraordinarily refined. Not classic cool climate cabernet, but a superb wine for the cellar.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). This is a smart wine. Blackcurrant fruit is the primary character on the nose, but there is a touch of quality oak in the background. The texture is silky and supple. The tannins are very fine, conferring a degree of drinkability, but I get the impression that this will improve for some time and live even longer. Super effort.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Miamup – 2010 (18). Very intense nose that is ripe, yet restrained. There is obvious power to the fruit. The palate is restrained and tight, but the quality of the fruit is undeniable. The finish is long and very fine, but needs a few years to show its best. The best wine we have seen in this range, it should be around $25.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (18). A dense wine that is just a baby. There is chocolate fruit with hints of tar. The finish is very textured and layered. The oak and fruit blend well. This will evolve for a long time, but the ripe fruit reflects the excellent growing season. Well made, this is an excellent wine.

Parker – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2008 (17.8+). Menthol and eucalypt to open that is typical of Coonawarra. The nose is initially quite restrained and tight. The palate has good length, and the fruit builds on the finish. There are dusty tannins to close that frame the fruit. With air, this really hit its straps showing dense ripe fruit of very high quality. The depth and richness continued to build for some time and made the perfect accompaniment to a piece of steak. Will be even better in a few years.

Stormflower – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2010 (17.8). A very smart wine. The fruit is dense and textured and the length excellent. There is chocolate and spice on the palate. A rich and dense wine that is textured, ripe and balanced.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – S.R.S. – 2010 (17.7++). Lovely ripe fruit that has mint and red currant on the nose. This has lovely fruit. The balance is excellent and the mouth-feel superb. The silky finish is very long and the fruit continues to evolve. The oak and tannins on the finish balance the fruit well. Very smart early drinking, but this will evolve and improve for at least 5 years. From Wilyabrub, this has high quality fruit and is very well made.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Davey Estate – 2010 (17.5). Slightly dusty, earth fruit here with hints of chocolate that good McLaren Vale reds can get. The palate has rich, velvety fruit with silk tannins. There is a touch of grip on the finish from the oak and tannins, but this complements the juicy fruit nicely. Not overblown, just ripe and concentrated.

Cabernet – New Release

Western Australia

Reviewed 6 July 2012

The standout wine from this tasting was the Pedestal cabernet sauvignon. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine that also represents great value with a RRP of $25. The Yard wines, also by Mr Cherubino, are also excellent, though they are not as approachable as the Pedestal right now.

Finally, the Stella Bella is a fantastic example of cool climate cabernet. The style will not appeal to everyone, but I love it.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Pusey Rd Vineyard – 2010 (18). Lovely fruit on the nose and palate, though the fruit is somewhat subdued at present. The palate is very precise, with excellent line and length. There is a silky mouth-feel, with fine fruit (and oak) tannins that build in the mouth. Cedary oak rounds out the finish to what is an impressive wine. Will age well in the medium term. From Margaret River.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2010 (18). Remarkably different fruit expression compared to the Pusey Rd Vineyard. The wine is lean and angular as the very fine fruit is very elegant, but not expressive now. This wine is in no way green, it is just not rewarding right now. . A finer style that will improve with years in the bottle. A complex wine that will reward extended cellaring. From Frankland River.

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). I like this for its medium-bodied fruit and elegance. The nose is complex and evolving, with savoury accents to add interest. The palate is supple, long, elegant and balanced. This is quite restrained at present but is layered with complexity. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine and by far the best buy of the tasting at around $25.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2009 (18). I like this. There is coffee and bitter chocolate over dark brooding fruit. There is obviously cooler climate fruit here as there are tomato leaf and eucalypt hints on the nose. Importantly, the fruit is perfectly ripe, albeit in a much cooler style. Cinnamon and spice from the high quality oak adds complexity to the finish. Age worthy.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2010 (17.8). A very complex nose! Licorice, cinnamon, spice and dark fruits all meld together to make a real impact. The palate is firm and a touch angular, but this promises a lot. The dark fruits build in the mouth, making this quite approachable now. I would like, however to give this 5 to 10 years to allow the multiple facets to come together into a great drink.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (17.5+). Enchanting nose that is full of red fruits, with complex forest floor characters over the top. The fruit on the palate starts off shy, but becomes quite juicy and mouth-watering with air. Fine tannins come through on the finish, though this suppresses the fruit now. Another good wine from this producer.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Next of Kin – 2010 (17.3). Vibrant, lifted fruit on the nose. The palate has forward fruit, with souring acidity that adds freshness and life. This is a wine that really calls for food to bring out its best. Supple oak adds to the close. Fruit forward and good drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17). I like this wine for its purity of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely textured and just a touch linear, but a few years should see it flesh out and develop more complexity. Points for potential and drinkability.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2010 (17). This possesses a solid core of ripe fruit that tends towards plum with spice hints. The palate is supple and fine with tannins that add grip and help carry the finish. Good length, the plump fruit suggests a riper year for the region.