Category Archives: Wine Review

Cracking Cabernets

Last Sunday Tasting Group

Reviewed: 27th May 2012

As many of you know, this is my favourite wine-related activity each month. Good wine, good food and great friends!

This month was my turn to host the event and with winter on its way, I thought it time to move to more structured red wines i.e. Cracking Cabernets! As is often the case with tasting older wines, cork related problems ruined several of the wines. Once again, I say a prayer of thanks for the humble screw cap.

The highlight of the tasting was the 2003 Gladstone by Houghton. A spectacularly good wine that will put many Bordeauxs costing hundreds of dollars a bottle to shame. Also worthy of mention are the wines from Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Katnook and Leasingham.

Reviewed

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2003 (18.6). Undoubtedly the star of the tasting. This wine was so good that my tasting notes were reduced to a series of descriptors! Silky, ripe, supple and fine, this is high quality, yet still youthful. Very long and fine, this is all about elegance. Excellent fruit quality that has been superbly handled. Seamless and silky, with succulent fruit to close.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Delicious nose, delicious palate! Textured, long and very persistent, with mint and eucalypt fruit notes with hints of vanillin oak. This is youthful, fresh and destined for a very long life.

Katnook – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1998 (18.4). Gorgeous nose that speaks of quality Coonawara fruit. Lovely menthol over chocolate fruit, with silky tannins that hold the palate together perfectly. Fully mature but will drink for years.

Leasingham – Cabernet Sauvignon – Classic Clare – 1996 (18.3). Mint and eucalypt fruit that is perfectly ripe. This is a very intense wine with inky, almost chocolate fruit. Very intense wine with mouth-watering acidity. Youthful and taut, this will live for years, so have it with food if you must drink it now.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 1995 (18.2). Menthol and chocolate on what is a very complex wine with excellent length of flavours. Textured and delicious, the tannins are a mere memory on the round and developed palate.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2001 (18.2). Cool fruit characters. Firm, but the developed notes are very attractive. Polished tannins are fine and silky. Quite linear in the mouth and a touch angular but really opens up in the glass. Decant to serve.

Clos du Marquis – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Serious fruit on the nose and palate. The intensity is a standout. Very long and textured, with no rough edges. More developed than the Moss Wood.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 (18). A very convincing wine. Real depth to the fruit and excellent length. This is fully developed, round and generous with textured chocolate fruit. Delicious.

Piaggia de’Colli – Cabernet Franc – Toscana – 2006 (18). Complex wine reminiscent of fine Bordeaux. The palate is bigger and richer than I expected. Chocolate oak, powerful fruit and firm tannins make for a meal in itself. Chewy finish to a superb wine.

Grosset – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.5). A Lovely wine that is just entering its drinking window. Rightly considered one of Australia’s best examples of the blend, though noticeable different to the Western Australian style.

Orlando – Cabernet Sauvignon – St Hugo – 1996 (17). I was not as enthusiastic as some, but a very good wine.

Matanzas Creek – Cabernet Sauvignon – Sonoma County – 2001 (16). Coffee, toffee and chocolate. A very interesting wine that provides drinking pleasure, but has a quite medicinal nose.

Chateau Gloria – Bordeaux – 1995 (NR). Another stuffed cork.

Chateau D’angudet – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margeaux – 1982 (N.R.).

Virgin Hills – Red Blend – 1999 (N.R.). Two bottles and two bad corks.

Wendoorie – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1998 (NR). Shame about the cork!

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 25th May 2012.

A real mix here, though some very worthwhile wines. The picks for me came from Juniper Estate and Higher Plane, though the Ringbolt may turn out to be the best value down the track.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.1). Serious fruit on the nose that is intense, focused and balanced. Cedary oak makes the palate muted at present, but this should evolve. Very structured and tight, with quality fruit, wine-making and oak but be very patient.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Interesting nose showing hints of plum and spice. The palate has excellent acidity and fine tannins making the finish quite lively. Not much primary fruit at this point in its development, so an excellent food wine in a European style. Will get better in time.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Isolation Ridge – 2010 (17.7+). Attractive, elegant and refined, with lovely red fruits and a hint of cherry. The fruit has been expertly handled in the winery so that the delicate fruit has not been swamped by winemaking inputs. Easy to drink now, but will be even better in 5 -10 years.

Ringbolt – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Plenty of minty fruit here. On the palate there is slightly chewy fruit though the oak and fruit tannins totally shut down the palate. I need to see this again as it is no doubt high quality, it just does not show well today.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17+). Cassis, intense fruit and menthol on the nose. Textured, ripe and complex, with a very long palate. Excellent oak use adds depth to the palate. A touch of eucalypt to close, but no green flavours. Lovely mouth-feel and texture to a quality wine.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine, with vanilla bean over redcurrent. The flavour profile matches the nose and the texture is first-rate.

Chalk Board – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 2010 (16.8). Well rounded wine with no rough edges. Blackcurrant fruit with hints of cedar and spice. The palate is mouth-filling and the succulent fruit builds intensity over time. Excellent tannin structure makes for a lovely wine. (Made by Penley Estate).

Drakesbrook – Malbec – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.8+). Pristine and bright fruit, with a degree of focus. The palate has real depth to the fruit and the winemaking (oak) is sympathetic. Popular with the entire panel, this took a couple of days to really open up and will be better in a few years.

De Bortoli– Merlot – La Bossa – 2010 (16.2). Fleshy fruit on the nose, with plum aromas. Juicy and plump palate with reasonable length and no oak to speak of. Easy drinking and good value.

Haut Bardin – Bordeaux – 2010 (16). Nothing wrong here, it is just that I do not get anything specific.

Cabernet and Merlot

14th April 2012

Some very smart wines here, thought there was a variety of styles on display.

Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.3). Very dense and powerful yet the fruit is very shy and reserved. The palate follows the theme with great length and very fine texture, but again, the fruit is subdued. Has everything in place for the long haul, but requires patience. Mint and blackcurrant are the dominant fruit characters with a touch of plum on the close. Will appeal to many!

Penley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18+). The nose is redolent of mint and blackberry fruit, though this is taught and more muscular than the HandPicked. Again, very long, though the tannins are more assertive in the mid-palate. The finish is balanced with a touch of coconut and vanilla showing from the oak. Everything is in place here, though ten years is required to see this wine really open up and show its full potential. This will last for a long time. Cork closure.

HandPicked – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Selections – By Peter Douglas – 2009 (17.8). Menthol and peppermint typical of Coonawara are a highlight on the nose. This is an attractive wine of some quality. The palate has eucalypt and peppermint over rich fruit that is very dense. There is a silky mouth-feel with prominent, (very fine) fruit and oak tannins. Lovely textural components and good line and length define a finish. This will evolve for many years and represents outstanding value at around $20. The only caveat is the cork closure.

Stormflower – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2009 (17.8). A real surprise here. Mint and eucalypt over red and blackcurrant fruit, with cedar and spice adding interest. An attractive wine that has quite powerful fruit. The finish is totally shut down by very fine tannins and oak, but the high quality fruit is hidden away. Lovely Margaret River cabernet. Points for potential.

Bird in Hand – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5). A more classically proportioned wine showing eucalypt, mint and cedary oak on both the nose and the palate. Long and savoury, the oak and tannins are a touch dominant at present but really soften with air. There is quality fruit and winemaking on display and the wine will evolve.

Grant Burge – Merlot – Hillcot – 2010 (17.4). A harmonious nose with aromas of coffee and spice over ripe red fruits. The palate shows fresh and vibrant fruit with a touch of vanillin oak to add complexity. The finish is textured and balanced, with a savoury twist to close.

Smith and Hooper – Merlot – Reserve – 2008 (17.4+). A real contrast to the easy-drinking style championed by the Oxford Landing. There is intense fruit on the nose that is complex, rich, ripe, dense and evolving. This has quality stamped all over it. Herbs, Satsuma plum and cherry combine with plenty of high quality cedary oak on the palate. There are coffee aromas to close. This needs time to fully integrate. The wine will not be to everyone’s taste, but it is an impressive wine all the same.

Grant Burge – Cabernet Sauvignon – Cameron Vale – 2010 (17). A good wine, but without great excitement. Ripe, well made and with decent length, there is a silky mouth-feel and good texture. Very easy drinking, the fruit leans more to plum rather than cassis.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.9+). Lovely nose that has Margaret River written all over it. Berry and cedary oak combine with dusty (though very fine) tannins to confer impressive length and mouth-feel. Needs a few years to open up, but an enjoyable wine just lacking the concentration of the great wines. Now to 10 years.

Juniper Crossing – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (16.8). Dense, plummy and earthy, with a core of ripe fruit. Savoury, almost cigar box like notes add complexity to the package. The palate is dense, slightly viscous and mouth-coating. Made in an approachable style, typical of this blend (at this price at least). This is an excellent red for a cold winter’s night and an open fire.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – Red Knot – 2011 (16.6). More immediate appeal here. Not particularly dense, this is a lovely early-drinking red. Ripe fruit that has hints of plum. A very well made, medium-bodied wine, but in a less serious style.

Smith and Hooper – Merlot – 2009 (16.5). There is a lovely balance of fruit and spice on the nose. Mid-weight and elegant, this is a pretty wine for short term consumption. This would probably look even better with a light meal.

Oxford Landing Estate – Merlot – 2011 (15.5). Fresh strawberry, Ribena and spice on the nose. A simple, uncomplicated and fresh palate that has enough life to make it good drinking. (Did I mention the smart packaging)?

Cabernet Sauvignon

New Release Wine Reviews

Reviewed: 27 December 2011

The highlight for me of this tasting was the O”Leary Walker cabernet. An excellent wine that should be widely available for around $20.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2007 (18.2). Cooler region fruit on a restrained and taut nose. On the palate, this really starts to sing. There are layers of fruit combined with excellent winemaker’s inputs. This is very complex and very long, with the density of fruit a standout. The palate is refined and relatively understated now, with cedary textural notes dominating the finish. Give it ten years to see it blossom. The excellent fruit quality and winemaking provide superb length.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18). Nice wine this. Silky, ripe and perfumed fruit on the nose combine with red fruits/berries and a seamless, silky, textured and evolving finish. This has high class fruit and oak combined with excellent winemaking. This is a classy wine that, whilst very easy to drink, is very complex and age-worthy.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2009 (18). Closed. This has refined fruit, combined with excellent winemaking. Great length and a superb finish. The wine really persists in the mouth. Very refined, this needs 10 – 20 years to hit its peak.

O’Leary Walker – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18). Excellent Clare Valley fruit on display here. A combination of cooler, minty fruit characters combined with lovely ripe fruit and tannins. This is a very classy wine. Powerful fruit dominates a multifaceted and evolving palate. There are plenty of fine tannins, but these frame the fruit beautifully. A mouth-filling, succulent wine that is a relative bargain.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Suckfizzle – 2008 (18). Much cooler region fruit here, with eucalypt, tomato leaf and herbal aromas over silky fruit. The palate has fine/refined fruit of real quality. The feature for me was the refined tannins. There is no hint of greenness and they are very silky, conferring a near seamless finish. This is a very elegant wine that is typical of the style. If you like bordeaux…

Ferngrove – Malbec – 2009 (17.8). Savoury fruit with overtones of spice and earth. Follows on the palate with dense chocolate and tar flavours that coat the mouth. There are also classic insecticide notes on the finish too (trust me, this is an appealing minty character). This is quite a serious wine, with solid fruit and excellent winemaking. A silky finish courtesy of fine tannins makes this easy to enjoy now, but give it 5+ years to see it at its best.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5+). This is a wine in two parts. A straightforward, though appealing wine up front, with juicy fruit and refreshing acidity, making this a good early drink. With time and air though, the quality shone through. Quality fruit and winemaking with the structure in place to age gracefully for many years. A refined wine of some class.

Kingston Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Echelon – 2005 (17.4). A touch of development on show, making this more approachable. Dense, ripe fruit that is very textured and layered. Whilst the wine has started to soften, this is a big wine that is multifaceted. Mint and blackcurrant flood the palate, combined with ample fine tannins. Whilst not classical cabernet, this will make a great winter red over the next five years. Should be good value.

Faber Vineyard – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Real depth to the fruit, showing mulberry and blackcurrant. Finishes quite savory and the length is good. A well made wine of some charm and reasonable complexity. Drink now to five years.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Symbols – 2009 (17). Another lovely nose, with mint and eucalypt up front. Attractive fruit on the palate with fresh acidity dominating the finish at present. May improve in the short term and represents excellent value.

Laurance – Merlot – 2007 (16.7). A well made wine with juicy, plum like fruit. Not overblown, this straddles the boundary between fleshy and structured, making for a good drink now.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (NS). Very appealing nose with vibrant fruit on display. Cedary oak and firm tannins dominate the palate now, but these are not overly aggressive. I would like to try this again in a year to see how it is developing so I have not pointed it yet.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2010 (17). Plum, mulberry and mocha fruit characters combine with fine tannins and well judged oak to make this an enjoyable and appealing wine. Not as complex as the best wines here, this is, none the less, an excellent drink.

Western Australian Cabernet

Lamont’s Cottesloe

Reviewed – 30 September 2011

A few weeks ago, Brendan Jansen reviewed the Hyatt Cup, a cabernet tasting aimed to showcase and contrast the wines of Margaret River and the Great Southern. I was unable to attend due to work commitments, so when my good friend John Jens said that he wanted to try the wines himself, I made sure that I was free this time.

Winemakers/staff from Houghton, Woodlands, Cullen and Mosswood plus a couple of wine writers attended the tasting.

When you look at cabernet sauvignon based wines, Margaret River has an enviable reputation. There is no doubt in my mind that the region produces the best wines in Australia. There was some discussion around the table as to whether Margaret River could lay claim to the best cabernet in the world.

I do not try enough great Bordeauxs to make a definitive statement, but several people thought that the best WA cabernets would stand up well in a line-up of First Growths. When you factor in the cost differential ($100 v $1000+), there is no argument for me. Indeed, you can buy some of the wines reviewed below for between $30 + $50. Try finding a decent bordeaux for under $100 dollars.

Reviewed

2009

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Lovely balance and poise. This wine reeks of class. The nose has red fruits, but has more of the sour cherry aromas. The palate is very complete, with superb fruit in evidence. The oak is a touch dominant now as are the slightly chalky tannins, but time is all that is needed for this to shine. The best value wine here!

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.2+). Restrained and quite closed on the nose. The fruit is more in the black fruit spectrum. Concentrated and dense, this has layers of flavour coming from the ripe fruit and quality oak influence. The balance is spot on, as is the mouth-feel. Needs time for the silky tannins to settle, but an excellent wine for the long haul.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2009 (18+). There is just a touch of ferment notes here suggesting that the wine has not been in the bottle that long. The palate, however, is a stand-out. Textured, spicy and supple, this has a very silky mouth-feel. The fruit is very closed, but the quality is hinted at. The textural components are spot on. Destined for a long life.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alma May – 2009 (17.9). Lovely ripe fruit. Cedar, spice and fresh red fruit show cherry and strawberry highlights. The palate has cherry, spice and cedary oak. The tannins are remarkably fine and integrated for a young wine. There is excellent length of flavours and good persistence. Not as dense as some wines here, but a very pretty wine that is a lovely drink.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2009 (17.5/18.3). More of the elegant, bright red fruits as seen in the Woodlands. There is lovely sweet fruit, but the wine still needs to settle down. The palate is a bit hollow at first, but opens up to reveal more depth. A very elegant and feminine wine. Excellent balance and structure, but requires effort to get the best out of it. More Bordeaux than Margaret River.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 200 (17.5+). An almost medicinal note with menthol to the fore. Sweet vanillin oak is evident on the nose. A big wine in every sense of the word. The palate is dense and tight, though there is an abundance of berry flavours and hints of earth and spice. Very long, I would like to see this in a few years to get a better idea of where it is going.

2007

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nicholas – 2007 (18.7). This is middle of the road, blending some of the red fruits of the lighter wines with density and structure of the bigger wines. Really classy palate that is both subtle and supple. The palate is ripe and fresh and very long. Lovely mouth-feel and texture. A super wine.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2007 (18.5). Lighter, more elegant fruit. Cherry, spice, raspberry and spice. Silky and very long. A very refined wine of real class. Superb palate and the tannins are extraordinarily fine.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.5). Wow. This is a blockbuster. Spectacular ripe fruit with cigar box, menthol and a touch of savoury, salty complexity on the nose. Follows through on the palate with tremendous concentration of fruit. Yes, the oak is apparent, but it does not dominate. A super wine, but it is not shy or retiring.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.4). Bright red fruits here. This is a silky wine though the structure on the finish prevents the fruit from properly expressing itself. A really long finish with very fine tannins. This is a very classy wine and one that I would love to drink in another 5 – 10 years.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.3). Slightly cooler fruit with eucalypt and mint. The fruit is ripe and very precise in the mouth. This is an excellent example of cooler spectrum fruit. The length and texture are very good. A real contrast to the Forest Hill, but a lovely wine all the same.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2007 (18+). Balance in evidence. Ripe dense fruit on the palate. This is really fine and silky. It is not a generous wine, but there is complex fruit and superb structure. Excellent mouth-feel in a wine that will only get better.

2008

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2008 (18.7). Another beautiful wine possessing the most remarkable balance and poise. Beautifully weighted fruit combine with silky tannins and very tight, sympathetic oak to make a wine of real class and elegance. One of my favourites.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5). Seductive nose. Cooler fruit again on the palate. Very refined and excellent balance. Ripe choco-berries, this has quite cool fruit notes, but the fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and fine, this will be a star in a few years.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Shy and retiring. This is still shut down by the very fine tannins and quality oak. Textured and almost chewy, the tannins are super fine and the finish quite seamless. A really smart wine, and a highlight of the tasting.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.3). Lovely nose. There is a degree of ripeness, but there is also elegance and depth to the fruit. The palate is bright though dense. A really classy wine that has real length and finesse. The fruit really fans out on the finish. Lovely, elegant wine.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.2). Silky and refined, though without joy at first. Opens up with air. A very good wine that requires patience. Superb structure and presence, but again, not a wine for the everyday drinker.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18). Fantastic ripe fruit here. This wine has good structure and real depth to the fruit, though the acidity is a touch high now. This, however assures a long life. Silky finish.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shelley Anne – 2008 (18). Another superb wine, though perhaps a touch lighter bodied than some here. Pretty fruit combine with skilled winemaking. Excellent medium term drinking.

 

© 2009 – 2013 Fine Wine Club

New Release Cabernet and Riesling

Reviewed – 6 September 2011

One thing that really struck me with this tasting was how tight cabernet sauvignon can be. A tasting of 15 shiraz would deliver a number of aromatic or savoury wines with instant appeal. With this tasting however, I found myself going back to the wines several times over 3 days watching their development. With each passing day, my enjoyment of the wines increased.

With time in the bottle, the fruit became much more accessible and the tannins softer. No doubt, these will cellar well.

The rieslings reviewed were much more approachable, though the best will age for 15 years.

Reviewed

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2010 (18). The nose is floral, with fresh, lemony fruit. There is a touch of pear skin too. Fresh, zingy acid, with steely lime fruit running through the palate. Impressive length and line. A lovely wine that ticks all the boxes. Good now, but better in ten years.

Talisman – Riesling – 2011 (17.2). Gentle floral fruit on the nose. This is very approachable now, but with enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Good length and intensity, and the fruit really builds in the mouth. The best drinking in this group now, though this will still age well in the medium term.

West Cape Howe – Riesling – 2011 (17). Musk, lime juice and lavender on the nose. The palate is fresh and vibrant, though there is a degree of restraint courtesy of the fresh acid. An enjoyable wine that builds intensity.

d’Arenberg – Riesling – The Stump Jump – 2009 (16.7). Unusually tropical in its outlook, with plenty of passionfruit and citrus. Rounded and approachable, this wine represents very good value.

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Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2008 (18.3). Intense fruit on the nose! Blackcurrant, menthol and a touch of perfume. Perhaps a touch of violets even. Fantastic fruit on the palate. This is virtually seamless and very intense. The quality fruit has absorbed the fine grained oak with ease. The finish is tight courtesy of the oak and silky tannins, so give it air or ten years in the cellar. This is in the cooler spectrum, so it is not everyone’s cup of tea. I loved it!

Ferngrove – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – The Stirlings – 2008 (18.2). More fruit intensity here. Lovely palate with cedar, spice and fresh fennel. Long and very intense, this has excellent structure and mouth-feel. Really builds in the mouth, with the shiraz adding some licorice components to the finish. This is an excellent wine that will benefit from at least ten years in the cellar.

Bird in Hand – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nest Egg – 2009 (18). Classically cabernet. Cooler region characters on display, with subtle eucalypt, herb and menthol. Mouth-filling, dense and quite rich, this is an easy wine to like. The length is excellent and the dense, ripe fruit floods the middle palate. Fine oak adds structure. Took days to open up and will last for many years.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (18). An angular wine that lacks generosity at first. Mint, mortien, capsicum and tomato leaf on the nose, Very intense, powerful and textured. This really blossomed over a few days. Great wine, just give it time.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2009 (17.6). Seductive. Ripe and succulent fruit that is varietally correct, but more generous than some on display here. Some of the minty notes have been replaced by ripe, almost plumy, fruit. Good length and intensity, in a more approachable style. Enjoyable now or in 8 years. A pretty wine with plenty of appeal.

Chapel Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17+). Surprisingly cool region fruit notes on the nose, with capsicum and a touch of insecticide. Sour cherry and Satsuma plum flood the palate. Intense and focused, this is a wine of some power and structure. Plum and menthol to close. Not mainstream, but with significant charm.

Forester – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17). Taut, fine, dense and reserved. This has dense, quality fruit and slick winemaking. It needs 5 years to start to show its best. A souring finish makes this a great choice with food if you are going to drink it now.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hyland – 2009 (16.8). More straightforward red fruits on the nose. The palate is forward and ripe, though there is remarkable balance and structure for a wine of this price. Delivers plenty of joy.

d’Arenberg – Cabernet Sauvignon – The High Trellis – 2009 (16.7). Enticing nose that is both restrained, yet displaying lovely ripe plumy fruit. The palate is fruit driven, with some fruit weight. Not the longest, but very approachable. From a warmer region, this has more ripe fruit and less mint/herbal notes as compared to the Western Australian wines here.