Tag Archives: Margaret River

Margaret River v Coonawarra

Reviewed: 18th May 2013

Margaret River or Coonawarra? I often ask myself that question when I am purchasing or opening cabernet based wines. Ten years ago, I would also have included Bordeaux in the equation, but the tremendous prices being charged for decent Claret makes Bordeaux an unrealistic option for me.

Fortunately the quality of Australian cabernet has continued to improve and the best local wines are equivalent in quality, if not style, to the best imports. The added benefit of shopping locally is that they are invariably sealed with a screw cap, removing the inherent risks associated with cork.

Whilst the current tasting was an opportunity to look at a selection of aged cabernet-based wines, it also gave me the chance to think about the regions.

One of the biggest differences between the two has been vintage conditions. Margaret River has been blessed with an amazing run of vintages starting with 2007 and continuing right through to 2012. (Early indications are that 2013 will also be very good). Coonawarra, on the other hand, has been on somewhat of a roller coaster ride with the highs being followed by lows. Improved viticulture has helped offset some of the lows, but I think it is a good idea to keep an eye on vintage variations.

Call me a fence sitter, but at the end of the tasting, I decided that I needed to keep space in the cellar for both region’s wines. Margaret River will always be the backbone of my cellar due to a combination of familiarity, availability, quality and consistency. In the great years however, I will always make space for Coonawarra. The wines are distinctive, age-worthy and totally delicious.

Wines tasted: 20

Wines reviewed: 10

Reviewed

Raveneau – Chardonnay – Chablis – 2010 (17.8). This is a complex, serious wine on the nose. There is creamy oak, textural barrel ferment characters and fine, pristine fruit. The finish is very long, with lemony acid the backbone that is fleshed out by a hint of sweetness that further enhances the balance. (The warm-up wine)

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1991 (18.2). Dense, sweet ripe fruit leaps from the glass. Think mint, eucalypt, cassis and red berries. There are hints of earth and leather courtesy of the bottle age adding to the great length and lovely texture. There is new-world density to the fruit, but old-world complexity and structure. Lovely drinking.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 1991 (17.8). Remarkable contrast to the Cape Mentelle, as this is fresh and vibrant, yet tight and restrained. There are hints of blueberry, mint, cherry, cinnamon and supple, cedary oak. A powerful wine, yet one that is balanced and restrained. Very long and near seamless, the ever-so-fine tannins providing a sprinkling of dust across the finish.

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2003 (18). This wine really impresses for its sweet, ripe fruit. At ten years of age, there are plenty of dark fruit characters with a touch of mint and eucalyptus. The palate is dense, structured and tannic, needing another 5 – 10 years to really unwind. There is structured oak to close. This is a powerful wine.

Wise – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Bramley – 2003 (18). This is a much softer interpretation on Margaret River cabernet compared to the Sandalford, with red fruits the primary character. There are hints of oak in the background and the very fine tannins build at the very end of the palate. The tannins are actually quite firm suggesting that this wine will still evolve, but it is in its drinking window now.

Coriole – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Mary Kathleen – 1999 (18). This wine has really intense fruit with complex savoury highlights. Think coffee, cinnamon and spice. The palate is textured and long finishing with very fine tannins and supple oak. In the mouth, this is supple, savoury, spicy, fragrant and long. Delicious now, this is an elegant wine from McLaren Vale showing excellent cabernet typicity, yet also some clear regional characters.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 1999 (17.8). Opens with mint over red fruits. This is elegant and drinking very well. There are hints of blackcurrant over cedar and spice on the palate. The finish is fine and long, with the acid cutting through the silky structure. The tannins are amazingly soft and add to the texture. This wine will be a great foil to food.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone  – 1999 (18.5). Compared to the Wynns, this has much more obvious ripe fruit characters. Blackcurrant, cinnamon, spice, mint, eucalypt and subtle, textural oak all meld into a fantastic package on the palate. Whilst refined and elegant, there is tremendous power and length to the fruit. Superb!

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – First Growth – 1998 (18.2). This wine approaches drinking perfection. There are fragrant red fruits, supple spice and silky tannins which combine to make this oh-so-easy to drink. The excellent length of flavours is a highlight and the fruit is very persistent. The tannins build on the finish providing the texture to accompany fine food.

Petaluma – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – 1998 (18.3). Reserved and shy compared to the Parker, this is a superb wine of the highest quality. The palate is dense, ripe, textured and powerful. There are hints of fresh herbs and wonderful fruit. Very structured, yet almost seamless.

 

Chardonnay & Pinot Gris

Reviewed: 14 July 2012

An interesting tasting with many wines not making it to this review. The pinot gris/grigio was interesting in that there was not a clear stylistic difference between those labelled “pinot gris” and those labeled “pinot grigio”. All the same, there are some good wines here.

The chardonnays were quite a diverse group, with taster preferences influencing the results. I for one, loved the 2009 Redbrook chardonnay, a wine that managed to balance riper fruit with a degree of drinkability that was hard to resist. One wag dubbed the 2008 Redbrook “Dolly Parton” as it was upfront and obvious.

Reviewed

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2009 (17.8). Complex nose. This has it all. Pineapple and citrus fruit, creamy oak, barrel ferment and lees characters. The palate mirrors the nose well. This is long and fine. A good wine with subtle toast to close. Should continue to evolve well for a few years.

Evans and Tate – Chardonnay – Redbrook – 2008 (17+/-). A complex, well-worked wine that has decent fruit. The oak is of high quality, though the medium toast characters are a touch obvious. A wine of some charm with lots of creamy oak and leesy characters over deliciously ripe fruit. If you like a bigger style of Chardonnay, you will love this!

Ad Hoc – Chardonnay – Hen and Chicken – 2011 (17). Tight, creamy oak over quality fruit with flint highlights. The palate is seamless, textured, viscous and long. This is a subtle wine of great charm.

Stormflower – Chardonnay – 2011 (17). A quality wine showing creamy oak, pineapple, citrus and a cashew nut mealy character on the palate. I like this. Long and fine, the quality oak has been very well handled, balancing fruit, oak and lees. Not subtle, but so what.

Tomich Estate – Pinot Gris – Family Reserve (17). Complex wine that has seen plenty of winemaker’s inputs. Creamy oak, with a textured palate that is long and quite fine. The fruit characters that I would expect from the style are suppressed now, but it opens to show decent aromatics, with pear, red fruits and barrel ferment/lees characters.

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – 2012 (16.9). Floral and lifted, with nutty fruit to close. This is quite viscous and dense and the hint of sweetness balances the wine nicely. Expressive, there is some viscosity and it finishes quite dry. A floral Barossa white has no right to taste this good.

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Grigio – Pinocchio – 2011 (16.8). More savoury than sweet fruit that suits the style well. The tart palate shows subdued fruit but is quite textured and long. This really goes on in the mouth. Well made wine.

Oxford Landing Estate – Pinot Grigio – 2011 (16). More musk-like fruit here. Nutty complexity to close with excellent length for a wine in this price range.

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 4 November 2011

This was another tasting that saw many wines cut before making it to this page. In general, the wines were actually very good, the problem was that they were just too young. With the move to a more restrained style of chardonnay, wines from the 2011 vintage are very tight and hard to assess.

Some of the wines looked more like SSBs, as they still had some of the tropical ferment characters in evidence (like passionfruit). Lets put this in perspective. The grapes for these wines are likely to have been picked, vinified, oak aged and bottled by September. At only 7 months of age, it is no wonder that they are youthful.

So apologies to the likes of Devil’s Lair, West Cape Howe and Flametree (2010 in this case). The wines were of very high quality, I just could not get a handle on them.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2010 (18+). Another very smart wine in the modern style. Restraint is the key ingredient, though there is quality fruit and slick winemaking poking through. The palate is light, fresh, refined, silky and seamless. All potential now, this will blossom.

Stella Bella – Chardonnay – Serie Luminosa – 2009 (18). Closed. Creamy, seamless palate that has hints of pineapple over lovely winemaking inputs. The length and quality of fruit are a feature, while the oak handling is superb. A very good wine that will be at its best in 3 – 4 years.

Flametree – Chardonnay – SRS – 2010 (17.8+). Closed and restrained, this is a smart wine. Very reserved, very long and very young. Delicate and subtle. Will be very good in time. From Wallcliffe region.

Grant Burge – Chardonnay – Summers – 2010 (17.6). A lovely wine that would be my pick to drink now. This has balance and poise that is missing in some here. The fruit is subdued on the nose, but everything is in place. The palate is superb. Refined, silky and quite seamless, this has plenty of class. Whilst modern, this is rich and textured. Good fruit and careful oak use in evidence. This could benefit from a few years in the cellar, but it is more generous than the Cape Mentelle, making it a better drink young.

Devil’s Lair – Chardonnay – The Hidden Cave – 2011 (17.5). Lovely nose with minerals and spice. The acidity dominates the palate making it hard to assess the fruit. This is a very good wine and it will blossom in time. Whilst fruit driven in style, there are complex winemaker inputs too. Just don’t drink it now.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2010 (17.5). Interesting wine. This is controlled and tight, though there has been good fruit used and quality winemaking. The length here is the key, this really goes on. Totally modern and fine, this will take 5 years in the cellar. This is near seamless and the oak just caresses the finish.

Singlefile Estate – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Quite a structured nose with lees, malo and oak in evidence . On the palate, the fruit shines through with peach and nectarine over creamy textural notes. Hints of cashew to close. Develops pineapple and has lovely acidity. Quality fruit made in a slightly bigger style.

West Cape Howe – Chardonnay – Styx Gully – 2010 (17.2). Closed on the nose. The quality is hinted at on the palate, but this is too young to really enjoy right now. Modern and light, with quality fruit and lovely texture.

Angove – Chardonnay – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17+). Youthful, tight and unrewarding now. The fruit is suppressed and the (high quality) oak dominates the finish. This has serious fruit and quality winemaking. A great buy at $18.

Tyrell’s – Chardonnay – Moon Mountain – 2010 (17). Simple but good quality fruit on the nose. Nice wine this. Good fruit runs through the palate with gentle stonefruit and slight lees, savoury and textural notes to close. The oak has been used well, with a slight toastiness to close. Smart wine. (At $15 from Dan Murphy, this is great value Hunter chardonnay).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 18 September 2012

A strong line up of wines, though there was some diversity to the styles, reflecting the different locations in which the grapes were grown.

Reviewed

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (18). Quite firm and tannic, the fruit is ripe, if a touch lean right now. Excellent length on the palate. This just needs a few years to open up and settle down. A serious wine, the points are for potential.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2008 (18). Taught, fine, but unrewarding at present. There are hints of berry fruit and excellent length. Like all the wines wearing the “Art Series” label, this is a wine that needs many years to show its best, but will reward in spades.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2010 (17.7). Cooler climate fruit with strong mint over red fruits. The acid is a little forward on the palate initially, but this has high quality fruit and textured, yet fine oak. Dense and long, with dusty tannins. If you like Bordeaux, this age-worthy wine is worth a try.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Sweet ripe fruit up front, with tar, cedar and attractive spice notes. Blackberry, tar, cedar and hints of cassis, with good length and texture to close. Whilst there is forward fruit, the oak and fruit tannins need to soften before this will reach peak drinking. Cellar for at least 5 years.

Fairbrossen – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5). Mint and eucalypt to open in the nose. Darker fruits than on the Killerby. On the palate there is blueberries, spice and a silky mouth-feel that is attractive. Very long, the tannins are fine and the oak sits well with the fruit. The fruit quality is good, but the winemaking is excellent.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude Vineyards – 2007 (17.5). Powerful fruit that belies the “second wine” status of this wine. The palate is dense with chewy tannins. The cooler area fruit defines this wine. A serious wine that took 3-4 days to open up and show its best! Worth trying if you like cool climate cabernet fruit.

Cabernet – New Release

Western Australia

Reviewed 6 July 2012

The standout wine from this tasting was the Pedestal cabernet sauvignon. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine that also represents great value with a RRP of $25. The Yard wines, also by Mr Cherubino, are also excellent, though they are not as approachable as the Pedestal right now.

Finally, the Stella Bella is a fantastic example of cool climate cabernet. The style will not appeal to everyone, but I love it.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Pusey Rd Vineyard – 2010 (18). Lovely fruit on the nose and palate, though the fruit is somewhat subdued at present. The palate is very precise, with excellent line and length. There is a silky mouth-feel, with fine fruit (and oak) tannins that build in the mouth. Cedary oak rounds out the finish to what is an impressive wine. Will age well in the medium term. From Margaret River.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2010 (18). Remarkably different fruit expression compared to the Pusey Rd Vineyard. The wine is lean and angular as the very fine fruit is very elegant, but not expressive now. This wine is in no way green, it is just not rewarding right now. . A finer style that will improve with years in the bottle. A complex wine that will reward extended cellaring. From Frankland River.

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). I like this for its medium-bodied fruit and elegance. The nose is complex and evolving, with savoury accents to add interest. The palate is supple, long, elegant and balanced. This is quite restrained at present but is layered with complexity. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine and by far the best buy of the tasting at around $25.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2009 (18). I like this. There is coffee and bitter chocolate over dark brooding fruit. There is obviously cooler climate fruit here as there are tomato leaf and eucalypt hints on the nose. Importantly, the fruit is perfectly ripe, albeit in a much cooler style. Cinnamon and spice from the high quality oak adds complexity to the finish. Age worthy.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2010 (17.8). A very complex nose! Licorice, cinnamon, spice and dark fruits all meld together to make a real impact. The palate is firm and a touch angular, but this promises a lot. The dark fruits build in the mouth, making this quite approachable now. I would like, however to give this 5 to 10 years to allow the multiple facets to come together into a great drink.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (17.5+). Enchanting nose that is full of red fruits, with complex forest floor characters over the top. The fruit on the palate starts off shy, but becomes quite juicy and mouth-watering with air. Fine tannins come through on the finish, though this suppresses the fruit now. Another good wine from this producer.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Next of Kin – 2010 (17.3). Vibrant, lifted fruit on the nose. The palate has forward fruit, with souring acidity that adds freshness and life. This is a wine that really calls for food to bring out its best. Supple oak adds to the close. Fruit forward and good drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17). I like this wine for its purity of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely textured and just a touch linear, but a few years should see it flesh out and develop more complexity. Points for potential and drinkability.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2010 (17). This possesses a solid core of ripe fruit that tends towards plum with spice hints. The palate is supple and fine with tannins that add grip and help carry the finish. Good length, the plump fruit suggests a riper year for the region.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 25th May 2012.

A real mix here, though some very worthwhile wines. The picks for me came from Juniper Estate and Higher Plane, though the Ringbolt may turn out to be the best value down the track.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.1). Serious fruit on the nose that is intense, focused and balanced. Cedary oak makes the palate muted at present, but this should evolve. Very structured and tight, with quality fruit, wine-making and oak but be very patient.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Interesting nose showing hints of plum and spice. The palate has excellent acidity and fine tannins making the finish quite lively. Not much primary fruit at this point in its development, so an excellent food wine in a European style. Will get better in time.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Isolation Ridge – 2010 (17.7+). Attractive, elegant and refined, with lovely red fruits and a hint of cherry. The fruit has been expertly handled in the winery so that the delicate fruit has not been swamped by winemaking inputs. Easy to drink now, but will be even better in 5 -10 years.

Ringbolt – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Plenty of minty fruit here. On the palate there is slightly chewy fruit though the oak and fruit tannins totally shut down the palate. I need to see this again as it is no doubt high quality, it just does not show well today.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17+). Cassis, intense fruit and menthol on the nose. Textured, ripe and complex, with a very long palate. Excellent oak use adds depth to the palate. A touch of eucalypt to close, but no green flavours. Lovely mouth-feel and texture to a quality wine.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine, with vanilla bean over redcurrent. The flavour profile matches the nose and the texture is first-rate.

Chalk Board – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 2010 (16.8). Well rounded wine with no rough edges. Blackcurrant fruit with hints of cedar and spice. The palate is mouth-filling and the succulent fruit builds intensity over time. Excellent tannin structure makes for a lovely wine. (Made by Penley Estate).

Drakesbrook – Malbec – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.8+). Pristine and bright fruit, with a degree of focus. The palate has real depth to the fruit and the winemaking (oak) is sympathetic. Popular with the entire panel, this took a couple of days to really open up and will be better in a few years.

De Bortoli– Merlot – La Bossa – 2010 (16.2). Fleshy fruit on the nose, with plum aromas. Juicy and plump palate with reasonable length and no oak to speak of. Easy drinking and good value.

Haut Bardin – Bordeaux – 2010 (16). Nothing wrong here, it is just that I do not get anything specific.

Western Australian Cabernet

Lamont’s Cottesloe

Reviewed – 30 September 2011

A few weeks ago, Brendan Jansen reviewed the Hyatt Cup, a cabernet tasting aimed to showcase and contrast the wines of Margaret River and the Great Southern. I was unable to attend due to work commitments, so when my good friend John Jens said that he wanted to try the wines himself, I made sure that I was free this time.

Winemakers/staff from Houghton, Woodlands, Cullen and Mosswood plus a couple of wine writers attended the tasting.

When you look at cabernet sauvignon based wines, Margaret River has an enviable reputation. There is no doubt in my mind that the region produces the best wines in Australia. There was some discussion around the table as to whether Margaret River could lay claim to the best cabernet in the world.

I do not try enough great Bordeauxs to make a definitive statement, but several people thought that the best WA cabernets would stand up well in a line-up of First Growths. When you factor in the cost differential ($100 v $1000+), there is no argument for me. Indeed, you can buy some of the wines reviewed below for between $30 + $50. Try finding a decent bordeaux for under $100 dollars.

Reviewed

2009

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Lovely balance and poise. This wine reeks of class. The nose has red fruits, but has more of the sour cherry aromas. The palate is very complete, with superb fruit in evidence. The oak is a touch dominant now as are the slightly chalky tannins, but time is all that is needed for this to shine. The best value wine here!

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.2+). Restrained and quite closed on the nose. The fruit is more in the black fruit spectrum. Concentrated and dense, this has layers of flavour coming from the ripe fruit and quality oak influence. The balance is spot on, as is the mouth-feel. Needs time for the silky tannins to settle, but an excellent wine for the long haul.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2009 (18+). There is just a touch of ferment notes here suggesting that the wine has not been in the bottle that long. The palate, however, is a stand-out. Textured, spicy and supple, this has a very silky mouth-feel. The fruit is very closed, but the quality is hinted at. The textural components are spot on. Destined for a long life.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alma May – 2009 (17.9). Lovely ripe fruit. Cedar, spice and fresh red fruit show cherry and strawberry highlights. The palate has cherry, spice and cedary oak. The tannins are remarkably fine and integrated for a young wine. There is excellent length of flavours and good persistence. Not as dense as some wines here, but a very pretty wine that is a lovely drink.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2009 (17.5/18.3). More of the elegant, bright red fruits as seen in the Woodlands. There is lovely sweet fruit, but the wine still needs to settle down. The palate is a bit hollow at first, but opens up to reveal more depth. A very elegant and feminine wine. Excellent balance and structure, but requires effort to get the best out of it. More Bordeaux than Margaret River.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 200 (17.5+). An almost medicinal note with menthol to the fore. Sweet vanillin oak is evident on the nose. A big wine in every sense of the word. The palate is dense and tight, though there is an abundance of berry flavours and hints of earth and spice. Very long, I would like to see this in a few years to get a better idea of where it is going.

2007

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Nicholas – 2007 (18.7). This is middle of the road, blending some of the red fruits of the lighter wines with density and structure of the bigger wines. Really classy palate that is both subtle and supple. The palate is ripe and fresh and very long. Lovely mouth-feel and texture. A super wine.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeleine – 2007 (18.5). Lighter, more elegant fruit. Cherry, spice, raspberry and spice. Silky and very long. A very refined wine of real class. Superb palate and the tannins are extraordinarily fine.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.5). Wow. This is a blockbuster. Spectacular ripe fruit with cigar box, menthol and a touch of savoury, salty complexity on the nose. Follows through on the palate with tremendous concentration of fruit. Yes, the oak is apparent, but it does not dominate. A super wine, but it is not shy or retiring.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.4). Bright red fruits here. This is a silky wine though the structure on the finish prevents the fruit from properly expressing itself. A really long finish with very fine tannins. This is a very classy wine and one that I would love to drink in another 5 – 10 years.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18.3). Slightly cooler fruit with eucalypt and mint. The fruit is ripe and very precise in the mouth. This is an excellent example of cooler spectrum fruit. The length and texture are very good. A real contrast to the Forest Hill, but a lovely wine all the same.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2007 (18+). Balance in evidence. Ripe dense fruit on the palate. This is really fine and silky. It is not a generous wine, but there is complex fruit and superb structure. Excellent mouth-feel in a wine that will only get better.

2008

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2008 (18.7). Another beautiful wine possessing the most remarkable balance and poise. Beautifully weighted fruit combine with silky tannins and very tight, sympathetic oak to make a wine of real class and elegance. One of my favourites.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2008 (18.5). Seductive nose. Cooler fruit again on the palate. Very refined and excellent balance. Ripe choco-berries, this has quite cool fruit notes, but the fruit is perfectly ripe. Very long and fine, this will be a star in a few years.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Shy and retiring. This is still shut down by the very fine tannins and quality oak. Textured and almost chewy, the tannins are super fine and the finish quite seamless. A really smart wine, and a highlight of the tasting.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.3). Lovely nose. There is a degree of ripeness, but there is also elegance and depth to the fruit. The palate is bright though dense. A really classy wine that has real length and finesse. The fruit really fans out on the finish. Lovely, elegant wine.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – C.W. Ferguson – 2008 (18.2). Silky and refined, though without joy at first. Opens up with air. A very good wine that requires patience. Superb structure and presence, but again, not a wine for the everyday drinker.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2008 (18). Fantastic ripe fruit here. This wine has good structure and real depth to the fruit, though the acidity is a touch high now. This, however assures a long life. Silky finish.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shelley Anne – 2008 (18). Another superb wine, though perhaps a touch lighter bodied than some here. Pretty fruit combine with skilled winemaking. Excellent medium term drinking.

 

© 2009 – 2013 Fine Wine Club

The Perth Hyatt Cup 2011

23 August 2011

By

Dr Brendan Jansen

As I walked into the foyer of the Hyatt Hotel and asked for the location of the 2nd annual Perth Hyatt Cup, I felt a little as though I was asking about a horseracing event. The equine comparison turned out to be in some ways apt, as I shall return to later.

The Hyatt Cup began last year, a competition to showcase the best of Western Australia’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet dominant Bordeaux blends. Punters (attendees) taste the wines selected blind, and then rate them, with wines selected from either the Margaret River or Great Southern regions. Points are collated and the results made known at the end of each bracket. This year, the 2007, 2008 and 2009 vintages were featured. For my general thoughts about the greatness of WA (and Margaret River in particular) Cabernet, please refer to http://wineup.wordpress.com/2011/07/20/margaret-river-and-its-affinity-with-cabernet-sauvignon/

On the expert panel providing commentary were esteemed WA winemakers and industry pioneers Dr Bill Pannell (founder of Moss Wood, now of Picardy), Keith Mugford (Moss Wood), Rob Bowen (Domaines and Vineyards, formerly Chief Winemaker at Houghton’s) and Kim Horton (Ferngrove). 19 wines were pre-poured, in brackets of 6 or 7. We began with the 2009 vintage, moved to the 2007, and finished with 2008. The list of wines follows.

2007

  • Cullen – Diana Madeline
  • Cape Mentelle
  • Moss Wood
  • Houghton – Jack Mann
  • Forrest Hill
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie

2008

  • Woodlands – Shelley Anne
  • Vasse Felix – Heytesbury
  • Cape Mentelle
  • Houghton – Jack Mann
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie
  • Houghton – CW Ferguson
  • Moss Wood

2009

  • Woodlands – Alma May
  • Fraser Gallop
  • Cullen – Diana Madeline
  • Howard Park – Abercrombie
  • Ferngrove – Majestic
  • K & B

From the first bracket, discussion ensued as to whether there was ‘typicity’ in the wines of each region that would allow them to be identified. Kim Horton suggested there may be, with cool climate features and a different quality of tannins setting the Great Southern wines apart. (Amy Burch echoed from the floor that differences in average daytime temperatures were indeed significant between the two regions).

Keith Mugford did not fully agree that regional differences were easily picked, especially with the 2009 bracket, suggesting that if indeed there was a difference in terroir, this was trumped by winemaking – use of oak, timing of picking, extent of extraction – and in ripe vintages (as all 3 vintages were), where achieving full phenolic ripeness is not an issue, “the hand of Man was more important than the hand of God”.

I agree with Keith Mugford’s comments – perhaps the choice of wines in this year’s competition for the 2009 vintage in question reflected winemaking more than terroir. And here it is appropriate to return to the horse racing analogy, perhaps “training” was more important than “pedigree” in these particular thoroughbreds.

The terroir argument received more support, however, in the second and third brackets (2007 and 2008 vintages), in that it was easier to detect regional differences, perhaps also reflecting the wines chosen (but also possibly reflecting the brilliant conditions in 2008 in particular, prompting Bill Pannell to declare that in some amazing years, wines just make themselves!) Kim Horton and Rob Bowen insightfully pointed out that the Great Southern region was also made up of very heterogenous terroirs– with Mt Barker and Frankland being very different in terms of rainfall, and as a consequence, vine vigour (with the latter subregion being drier).

Dr Pannell provided an eloquent critique of the show system, suggesting palate fatigue played a part in bigger, fuller styles gaining credit over lighter bodied, more elegant wines. He also made insightful comments about the perhaps bogus task of trying to pick a winner between the two regions. He cited the Rhone Valley, and Cote Rotie and Hermitage in particular, as examples of extremely high quality appellations, commanding equally high prices, but with very different styles. Perhaps we should trust our palates, and choose our favourites according to the style we prefer!

I for one enjoy Cabernets that are of medium body, which are varietally faithful, have all the hallmarks of Cabernet (like tomato leaf, capsicum, cassis, and cigar box when a few years old), complemented but not overly encumbered by oak, with fine, dusty but ripe (not green) tannins, good acid and the structure to allow aging. I say this as a preface to sharing my favourite wines of the tasting, as all the wines selected were of superlative quality, and my preferences simply reflect, well, my preferences.

For what it’s worth, these are the wines I awarded my highest points to, with a brief tasting note:

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Wow! Opulent, stewed (but not over-ripe) fruit characters, varietally spot on, with nicely developed tannins on the front palate.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2009 (18.25). Layers and layers of rich cassis, dense, rich, with chocolatey oak. Great length and all elements in balance.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 (18,75). Still dominated by chocolatey/mocha oak, this wine had amazing depth, palate reach, and flavours that just went on and on. Superb ripe tannin structure allied to liquorice, plum, blackcurrant and boysenberry. (The Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 also brilliant, but young and tight – 18.25 pts).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.75). On the money. Dusty tannins, tomato leaf, capsicum, some development with cigar box and tobacco, ripe cassis fruit, beautiful medium palate weight, persistence and tannin structure. (I gave the Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2007 18.5 pts also).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Shelley Anne – 2008 (18.75). Beautiful and beguiling. Like a gentle kiss, warms your cheek for a good time after. Dense, complex and displaying currant, berry, cherry and mint, it had superlative length, and a lovely tannin structure. My wine of the night. (The Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alma May – 2009 , not released for another year, is also a cracker – 18.25 pts).

So what were the results? Well, Margaret River came out on top – by a whisker – amongst both the tasters and the expert panel. In the end, though, the difference was far from being statistically significant, and the real winners were Cabernet Sauvignon, Western Australia, and those of us lucky enough to enjoy these wines!

John Jens and the Hyatt should be congratulated for putting on such a stellar event, and at such a bargain price. John should get a special mention for his tireless attempts at promoting WA wine, and Cabernet in particular.

If you get the chance to attend next year, go for it! I’ll bet in you having a great night!

Ciao for now!

Brendan Jansen

Western Australian Cabernet

Reviewed 23 June 2011

Over a period of four days, I reviewed almost 80 cabernet based wines. I have already reviewed some elsewhere, so hear is a cross-section of some of the others.

Reviewed

Devils Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.2). Lovely nose that is a blend of red fruits and mint/eucalypt. Displaying obvious cooler region characters, this has promise. Long and fine, with silky tannins. Will take years for the fruit to come out. One for the lovers of Bordeaux.

Woody Nook Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gallaghers Choice – 2009 (18+). Structured and dense, this offers little on the nose right now. The palate shows excellent fruit quality and slick winemaking. Structure and length are spot on. The mint, eucalypt and herbal notes suggest a cooler region. Give it a few years.

Credaro Family Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). The key to this wine is its balance. Ripe fruit, skilled winemaking and quality oak all evident. The fruit really is good and the slightly chewy tannins are very fine. Could develop into a star.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – The Scholar – 2008 (17.9). There is a core of ripe fruit here, with a seductive and quite beautiful nose. A superb palate follows that has ripe fruit and textural components. A fine wine with excellent balance. Well made.

Capel Vale – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.8). Closed and reserved right now. A very fine wine in the mould of Cullens. Has extraordinary finesse and length, with very silky and refined tannins. Really opens to show lovely mouth-feel and fruit.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2007 (17.7). A solid wine with a core of dense, ripe fruit. This is quite complex and well made. The length and complexity on the palate are notable. Fine cabernet fruit, this is complex and very long. A smart wine with lovely red fruit.

Brown Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – Great Boulder – 2008 (17.5). More restrained nose with hints of blackcurrent and raspberry. The palate is very structured. Long and fine with quality fruit and winemaking on show.

Forest Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.5). A powerful wine of some note. Masculine, though there are hints of quality fruit. Builds in the mouth. Excellent oak and winemaking. in a very structured package.

St Aidens – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17.3+). A very pretty nose that has floral notes. The palate has vibrant red fruits, with enough tannins and acidity to keep it fresh.

Wills Domain – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17+). Too young to assess, but this has good fruit in an approachable package. Genuine length of flavour and good mouth-feel make this a good prospect.

Rosabrook – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). Shows more fruit intensity than some, combined with solid winemaking. This offers plenty of appeal, but needs a year or two to settle down. Smart wine.

Wignalls – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). Took its time, but this opened up to show pretty fruit and good length of flavours.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17). A lovely nose here. Refined and elegant, this has ripe fruits at the heart of it. The palate has super-sweet fruit. This is made to drink now and offers plenty of appeal

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – 2009 (17). Closed and tight nose. Quality fruit that is dense yet refined. Good length of flavour and nice mouth-feel. The quality oak is notable on the finish, but does not detract.

Windance – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (16.5). Ripe and plump fruit, with good fruit weight and mouth-feel. Suitable for early consumption, this is juicy and generous.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed – July 10 2011

Whilst only eight wines made it through the tasting to be reviewed here, there are some very interesting wines that are worth trying for yourself.

Windows Estate is not a wine I have heard of before, but I was very impressed with their wines.

Reviewed

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2009 (18). Dense and inky wine that has excellent quality fruit. Whilst there is powerful fruit, the firm tannins and quality oak hold back the palate at present. This is less obvious than their cabernet merlot, but it will be a long term star if you are patient enough. An excellent wine!

Robert Oatley – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.9). Blackcurrant aromas flood the nose. The dense fruit is combined with firm structural components. The linear nature of the palate ensures that this tastes like a straight cabernet. The palate is very long and fine, with complex red fruits, smart oak and good structure. Will benefit from some bottle age. (From Margaret River).

Parker Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2007 (17.8+). Leads off with some herbal and eucalypt notes, followed by peppermint highlights. The silky and supple palate has hints of dark fruits and chocolate, with fine tannins. This wine’s Coonawara origins are displayed by the menthol aromas and a rich dense core of blackcurrant fruit. I really enjoyed a glass of this with my dinner!

Harewood Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.6). Impressive fruit on what is an interesting style. This has very cool region cabernet fruit on the nose, with menthol and a touch of herbal notes, but the quality of the fruit is really evident on the palate. The sweet fruit is dense and the textural components are spot on.

Drakesbrook – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). Little to show on the nose initially, developing menthol and red fruits with air. The palate is vibrant and expressive. Impressive fruit quality, subtle oak and silky tannins make this a wine worth trying. Just give it some air.

Mad Fish – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Sideways – 2009 (17.5). Lovely perfumed nose. There is ripe fruit with violets and floral notes. There is also complex coffee, chocolate and spice notes. Again, the oak and fruit tannins close down the palate at first, but this is a smart wine.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). This is a refined wine. Silky and elegant, with fine fruit on the nose. Lovely texture, length and mouth-feel with excellent structure on the palate. Not a big wine, but the high quality fruit and wine making are evident. Has a cool region feel to it and represents good short term drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (17). A fresh wine that has some appeal. Refined and elegant, with excellent length of fruit flavours. Very silky tannins and clever oak hold the fruit back just now. This will be better in a year or two.