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Burgundy Comes to Australia

Direct imports by Lamont’s – Cottesloe

17 & 22 December 2009

Burgundy is the holy grail of wines from my perspective. The great wines from Burgundy (both red and white) are possibly the greatest wines on the planet. The problem is that most wines do not reach anywhere near that pinnacle, especially for pinot noir. The best new world pinots are lovely wines but they lack the ethereal qualities of great burgundies. Indeed, most red burgundies fall well short of the mark too.

The story is a little different for chardonnay. The greatest new world wines (e.g. Leeuwin Estate from Margaret River) are indeed great wines. They are different to those from Burgundy though. Not better or worse, just different. Is the quality of these new world chardonnays equal to the best white burgundies (e.g. Grand Cru wines such as La – Montrachet etc)? Perhaps not quite, but the gap is small. Do good whites from the Burgundy region offer a drinking experience that is worth pursuing? Definitely! The minerally characters abundant in these wines are ideally suited to food, and often will take some aging.

At this stage I should highlight that wines made from chardonnay from the Burgundy region come from two main regions. Chablis and Burgundy. Both are typically 100% chardonnay, but the style differs significantly. I will discuss this further in a future article.

So to the wines.

Lamont’s has sourced a number of wines from various producers throughout Burgundy and Chablis. Looking at the order form, the wines appear to be very well priced. They suggest that a combination of the higher Australian Dollar, decreased global demand post the Global Financial Crisis and the ability to bypass the middle-man through direct imports has resulted in significantly reduced prices.

Having said all this, the wines only represent good value if they are actually good. After tasting 18 of the wines (this was not a blind tasting, so points are a bit arbitrary) I am pleased to say that they are good to very good, and there is some excellent value on offer.

Importantly, this is an opportunity to drink/cellar a selection of wines that offer something different to anything being made in the new world.

Tasted

Chardonnay

Bernard Bonin – Meursault Charmes – Premier Cru – 2004 (18). (Burgundy). Open and rich nose with minerals and melon fruit characters The palate is round and rich, with caramel toasty oak. Good mouth feel that is viscous and textured. Drinking well now.

Bernard Bonin – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004 (18.5). (Burgundy). Formerly known as Domaine Michelot. Closed and surprisingly tight given that it is 5 years old. The palate has plenty of minerals, spice, stone fruit and a touch of almond. There is also peachy fruit and a touch of apricot kernel. The palate is defined by fine acidity and high quality oak but remains lean and relatively austere. Will evolve wonderfully over time.

Darviot Perrin – Meursault – Clos de La Ville – 2006 (17.9). (Burgundy). Whilst quite closed at the moment, this has citrus and tropical fruit notes. The palate is rich, ripe and textured with lovely mouth feel. Very fine oak is seamlessly integrated. Opens and builds power with air. Give it a few years to blossom.

Darviot Perrin – Chassagne Montrachet – Blanchots Dessus – Premier Cru – 2006 (18.5). (Burgundy). Closed, complex and creamy. The palate is closed, tight, seamless and very long. Stone fruit to the fore with great subtlety. This is fantastic! Needs several years to show its best.

Laurent Cognard – Montagny Les Bassets – Premier Cru – 2008 (17.5). (Burgundy). More obvious nose. Quite creamy, with more stone fruit and less minerals than the wines from chablis. There is also a touch of Marzipan/rose water. This has potential! The palate has lovely lemony acid, is creamy and has a relatively seamless palate. Some apricot to close.

Philippe Chavy – Borgogne Blanc – 2007 (16.9). (Burgundy). Cold and quite closed to start. Plenty of minerals and lemony acid with a touch of toastiness. Not complex, but would be good drinking with a risotto this summer.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – Folatiers – Premier Cru – 2007 (18). (Burgundy). More complex and ripe. Interestingly, this has more colour than most here. The palate is defined by powerful fruit – this is big. Very good length and more structure. One to drink over the next year.

Philippe Chavy – Puligny Montrachet – 2007 (17.7). (Burgundy). More complex and obviously white burgundy. A touch of mineraly curry leaf. This is quite chewy and textured with a touch of honey and seamless oak. There is a steely finish on this fine wine.

Sylvain Mosnier – Petite Chablis – 2007 (16.9). Classic minerals and flint on the nose with ripe peach and a touch of almond meal. The palate is bright and fresh. This is tasty, and has a lovely mouth watering saltiness on the close. Not greatly complex, but very enjoyable drinking. Good Value.

Sylvain Mosnier – Beauroy – Premier Cru – 2006 (17.4). (Chablis). More complex, with honey, lanolin, and stone fruit. The palate has apricot kernel and honey. There is some oak evident on the creamy finish. This has real density of fruit but is still quite closed. May get greater length with a year more in bottle.

Bernard Bonin – Meursault – Les Tillets – 2005 (NR). (Burgundy). Slight cork taint. Looks promising.

Pinot Noir

Anne & Herve Sigaut – Morey St Denis – Les Millandes – Premier Cru – 2007 (17.5/18). Wow, really perfumed with a touch of meatiness. This really chewy and dense showing fruit and tannin ripeness. The drying finish is very fine. Points for potential.

Aurelien Verdet – Haut Cote de Nuit – 2007 (17.3). Scented and perfumed. A fine and refined wine. More concentrated than the Clos des Faulques. Darker cherry fruit that has earthy undertones. White pepper and savoury notes. This is great value.

Darviot Perrin – Beaune Bellisands – Premier Cru – 2003 (18). Intriguing “French” pong reflects the extra bottle age on this wine. Deep smelling with cherry and red currant undertones. The palate is long, complex, savoury and dense. Subtle oak supports the cherry fruit. Very good drinking!

Jean-Marc Millot – Cotes de Nuits Villages – Clos des Faulques – 2007 (16.5). Ripe cherry with some complexity on the nose. The palate has cherry, strawberries and spice. Simple but a good drink.

Jean-Marc Millot – Clos Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2007 (18.5+). Complex, deep and fragrant nose. Wow, the palate is powerful, deep, dense, very fine and long. Evolves with air, revealing leather, spice and cloves. Majestic wine.

N.B. To add context to the tasting, we opened a bottle of the Leeuwin Estate – Art Series – Chardonnay – 2006 (18.5/18.7) to use as a bench mark. This is a wine of stunning quality and at under $100 a bottle is a real bargain.

Chardonnay – New Release

16th July 2009

The usual panel got together for 21 new chardonnays. The distinguishing feature of the tasting was the modern style in which they were made. Gone are the fat, blousy and heavily oaked wines from the 1990s. These wines are lean, tight and fresh. Oak is mainly in the background, and french oak is the order of the day. Most of the wines need at least a year or two to flesh out and show their best. The most startling wine was the Rosemount Roxburgh, which is as far removed from the wines of the early 1990s as night is from day.

The down side of this change in style is that the wines are not as approachable young, and tasting 21 in a little over an hour is hard work indeed. A winery to watch is Xabregas. their show reserve wines look promising. If they are priced sensibly ($30) they will represent good buying.

Tasted

  1. Moss Wood – Moss Wood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5/18+)
  2. Plantagenet – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.5)
  3. Xabregas – Show Reserve – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.5)
  4. Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3)
  5. Rosemount – Roxburgh – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.2+)
  6. Singlefile Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.1)
  7. 3 Drops – Chardonnay – 2007 (17)
  8. Higher Plane – South by South West – Chardonnay – 2006 (16.9)
  9. Singlefile Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.8)
  10. Vistamar – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7)
  11. Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7)
  12. Xanadu – Next of Kin – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.6)
  13. Plantagenet – Omrah – Chardonnay – 2008 (16. 5)
  14. Hardy’s – The Gamble – Chardonnay/Pinot Gris – 2008 (16.5)
  15. Capel Vale – Regional series – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5)
  16. Charlies Origins – Chardonnay – 2006 (16.5)
  17. Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5)
  18. Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.3)
  19. Xanadu – Dragon – Chardonnay – 2008 (16).
  20. Saracen Estate – Chardonnay – 2007 (16).
  21. Hay Shed Hill – Chardonnay – 2008 (14.5)

Results

Moss Wood – Moss Wood Vineyard – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5/18). Whilst this wine started more austere than most here, it really opened up with a bit of time. Has everything really, serious fruit, excellent oak and all the usual winemakers inputs (barrel ferment, lees contact etc). At this stage the oak is a little dominant at the finish, but this will settle down. The palate has the lot with pineapple fruit and vanillin oak to close. Needs 3-5 years. .

Plantagenet – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.7+). Complex and tight nose. The palate has lovely almonds, apricots and melons. Grapefruit acidity to close. Oak subdued. Young but exciting. This will be even better with time. Much better the next day.

Xabregas – Show Reserve – Chardonnay – 2006 (17.5). Worked and complex. The palate is viscous with peach fruit. Vanillin oak adds complexity. On the palate, this is a bit hard to gauge, as the acid is very dominant right now. Nice texture and quality fruit. Toasty oak to close. Even better the next day.

Xanadu – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.3). Almond and spice on the nose with supple oak support. The palate is closed but has a nice creamy texture. Complex and well worked, this needs a few years to blossom. Zesty acid to close.

Rosemount – Roxburgh – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.2+). Closed to start with. This is rich, textured and long. Excellent fruit quality here, a modern wine that has been well worked. Needs a few years to settle down, as the oak finish is a little clunky.

Singlefile Estate – Reserve – Chardonnay – 2008 (17.1). Closed to start. Pineapple fruit, typical of the Mendoza clone common in WA. The palate is attractive, with a rich nutty mouth feel. I felt the oak grip detracted from finish

3 Drops – Chardonnay – 2007 (17). Quite Burundian, with minerals and a touch of curry leaf. The palate is dominated by grapefruit, and has a spicy long finish. Fruit builds in the mouth. Lean now, will be better in a year or two.

Higher Plane – South by South West – Chardonnay – 2006 (16.9). Clean and ripe on the nose, this has some serious fruit. Well made, with pineapple to close. Could have had better oak use.

Singlefile Estate – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.8). Perfumed nose with creamy stone fruit and pineapple. The palate is clean fresh but closed, and the finish is long and quite tight. Perhaps a touch of sweetness to close (not a bad thing). The finish, but this may settle.

Vistamar – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7). Really divided the room. I felt it was quite creamy and complex, with a palate that is textured and long. The acid swamps the fruit now. Melons, peach and nectarine to close. Worth a try at $10.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.7). Subdued fruit, but complex and creamy. Nice citrus and nuttiness. The palate remains very acidic, tight and long. Give it lots of air.

Xanadu – Next of Kin – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.6). Clean and fresh on the nose with vibrant, zesty fruit. The palate is quite long with musk, grapefruit, cinnamon and spice. The wine is lean and modern and nicely worked.

Plantagenet – Omrah – Chardonnay – 2008 (16. 5). More complex than some unwooded chardonnays. The palate is quite long and bright. Some almond meal to close. Good stuff for an unwooded wine.

Hardy’s – The Gamble – Chardonnay/Pinot Gris – 2008 (16.5). Did not show much on the nose, but the palate is full of fruit. The pinot gris adding significant viscosity to the palate. Quite long but lacks focus. Why the blend?

Chardonnay – New Release

5th July 2009

Tasted

Results

Vasse Felix – Heytsbury – Chardonnay – 2007 (18+) Touch of curry leaf to the minerals that dominate the nose, with cashew paste adding complexity. Creamy and textured palate with a silky mouth feel. Excellent finish and very long. Shy now, but has good potential. Oak adds to finish. Very good fruit. Terry thought the tropical/pineapple fruit was typical of the mendoza clone. Will get even better.

Palmer – Chardonnay – 2006 (18). Closed, but hints at complexity. The palate is textbook Chardonnay – mealy, creamy, complex and seamless. The finish is long with lemony acid. Excellent mouth feel and weight. Not cheap, so perhaps the Heytsbury is a better buy.

Millbrook – Limited release – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.9) Creamy and complex nose. Fantastic palate on this. Creamy, complex and textured. Seamless and very fine. Lovely oak to close. Crisp, long and linear.

Repertoire – Shim – Chardonnay – 2007 (17.5+) A real surprise hear. The nose is subtle and fresh, though a bit closed. On the palate this is clean fresh and vibrant with a zesty finish. There is a touch of sherbet. It will evolve over the next 2-3 years. Excellent fruit, balance and persistence in a restrained style.

Clairault – Estate – Chardonnay 2006 (17). Closed and quite dumb on the nose. Clean and fresh, with peachy fruit. More support from the others who found it lean, tight and intense. Not me, though it is good

Wise – Reserve – Chardonnay 2006 (17). Young, closed and complex. The palate has nutty fruit. A leaner style that has very good fruit, with a lean and drying finish. Acid in check

Hutton – Tryptich – Chardonnay 2007 (17) A Complex wine. the nose has minerals and a touch of earth. The crème brule finish overpowers the subtle fruit. Should integrate

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.8). A touch coarse by comparison.The palate is forward with lemony acid, but lacks fruit weight and complexity.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.8). Quite complex on the nose. Leads with minerals and a nutty, almond meal texture. The palate is zesty and a bit firm now, and the oak grip is a touch obvious now. Should improve in a year or two.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2007 (16.5).

Leaping Lizard – Chardonnay – 2008 (16.5) I was the only supporter. Very young and pale. Clean vibrant fruit. The palate is clean fresh and a touch simple, with sherbet and vanilla brule to close. May develop ..

Pierre Naigeon – Bourgogne – Chardonnay – 2006 (16). Entry level white burgundy. quite typical, and worth trying if you are new to the style. (A Dan Murphy direct import)

Cabernet and Friends

New Release

Reviewed: 6 January 2013

Cabernet based wines must surely be the King of wines. Powerful, structured and majestic, their ability to age is second to none when it comes to red wine. This power was certainly on display during this tasting, though the expression varied. In some, the power was overt, while in others, there was latent power wrapped up in a cocoon of silky fruit.

In the first category, the wines included the Deep Woods and Killerby. Powerful wines that stand up and make their presence felt. The second group was typified by the Moss Wood and Faber. Elegant, restrained wines that have supple, fragrant fruit. In a large line-up of wines, it is easy to overlook these wines as they are all about elegance and supple balance, rather than in-your-face tannins and oak.

It took a couple of days for the second group to really hit their peak, but the result was beautifully fragrant wines of charm and style. Bravo!

Reviewed

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18+). Mint/menthol, eucalypt and herbal notes on the nose. The palate is chewy, textured and long. The tannins are firm and the oak is sitting over the fruit at present. Opens with air to show blackcurrant, cedar and eucalypt, with hints of bitter chocolate, coffee and spice to close. A structured, angular wine that, while a touch raw now, will be superb in 10 years. A high quality wine.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2010 (18). Closed and brooding, this is an assertive wine that has plenty of extract and grip. The length is good, while the persistence is outstanding. The wine is remarkably silky up front, though this is difficult to drink now due to the firm finish. 10 – 15 years should see this hitting its peak. With air, there are intense, ripe berry flavours with a touch of tea leaf savouriness. A serious wine for the long haul.

Wolf Blass – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Malbec – Black Label – 2008 (18). Beautiful colour. Leads off with hints of varnish and resin on the nose from the oak. This blows off to show ripe, though restrained fruit on the nose. The palate has ripe, but firm fruit, with red fruits, cedar and spice. The length is prodigious and the tannins firm and drying. The oak is ever present on the finish. Complex, structured and tannic, this opened up over several days to show lovely, fragrant fruit. No apologies required for being made in the Wolf Blass style.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18). Subtle fruit and oak on the nose. Everything about this speaks quality. The refined winemaking has resulted in elegant fruit being well matched to silky oak. The tannins are polished, though noticeable, while the finish is precise. The length is very good and the mouth-feel evolves for some time after the last sip, with a touch of mocha characters to close. This is an intense wine with essence-like fruit. With air the blackcurrant, eucalypt and herbal notes really shine.

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Metricup Road – 2010 (17.8). Spice to open on the nose with cedar over a core of ripe, mid-weight fruit. This is a structured, textural wine that has little in the way of primary fruit. Opens and builds with air, but some patience is required. There is no doubting the quality, it is just that there is no joy as yet. Give it plenty of air or, better yet, 5 – 10 years in the cellar to show its best.

Moss Wood – Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2010 (17.7). Wow, the lovely perfumed fruit leaps out of the glass. This is redolent of blackcurrant, cedar and spice. There is even a hint of fruitcake. The palate is beautifully ripe and precisely weighted. The fruit is balanced by very fine tannins and savoury, texturing oak. The length is excellent and the fruit flavours build and evolve for some time. The finish is near seamless, though there is a touch of grip to close. Will age well, but is absolutely delicious now.

Faber Vineyard – Malbec – Dwellingup Vineyard – 2011 (17). The colour is almost crimson/purple. This is very deep smelling, with blueberry and raspberry over mint, with briary, earthy undertones. The souring finish adds life, though there is a touch of astringency on the close (that softens noticeably with air). This wine has excellent quality fruit that has been massaged in the winery, resulting in a pretty wine full of subtlety.

Faber Vineyard – Petit Verdot – 2010 (17). Overt nose that shows very pretty, ripe fruit and well-handled oak. The palate on the other hand is firm and quite tannic. There are also plum and mulberry jam components. After a day on the tasting bench, this really softened, allowing the pretty, fragrant fruit to shine. Whilst ideal for lovers of a big red now, this will be much better with a few years in the cellar. Diam cork closer.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Juniper Crossing – 2010 (17.3). Not in the “typical” cab/merlot style as this is a big, powerful cabernet with rich fruit and firm tannins. The oak sits over the fruit on the finish, further accentuating the structure. Chewy, this is a wine that I would prefer to see again in another 5 years.

Angove – Merlot – Long Row – 2011 (16.3). Plump, soft fruit with good attack. Redcurrant and spice lead on to a somewhat developed palate. (This is also reflected in the colour). Soft, round and generous, with no rough edges. The lack of fruit intensity can easily be forgiven at this price. An easy drink.

Cabernet and Blends – New Release

Reviewed: 12 December 2012

A large bracket of cabernet based wines makes for a tiring tasting. The firm tannins and relatively reserved fruit present a challenge. This was typified by the wines from Moss Wood and Cape Mentelle. Both are obviously high quality, though they really need several (many) years in the cellar to show their best.

By comparison, the Devil’s Lair was much more approachable. This is a superb wine that whilst very age-worthy, is a lovely drink today.

Finally, the Long Row is another bargain from Angove.

Reviewed

Devil’s Lair – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18 – 18.5). Inky fruit here! Expect mint, spice and red fruits with a touch of eucalypt to reflect its cooler region origins. There is blackcurrant fruit on the palate and the wine has been superbly made. The oak, whilst shutting the fruit down on the finish somewhat, is supple and sympathetic to the mid-weight fruit. The tannins are refined and precise on the finish, making this an excellent drink now or in ten years +.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2010 (17.9). A closed nose only hinting at potential, with violets and blueberry aromas developing in the glass. It is on the palate that this really shows its class with fine fruit and refined winemaking. Elegant and reserved, this is a wine that needs plenty of air or 10 years in the cellar to show its best. The finish is quite tight courtesy of the very fine oak and tannins. A leaner style that will evolve. (This took 5 days on the tasting bench to really open up).

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders 2011 (17.7+). There are hints of succulent fruit here, however this is quite reserved and tight on first presentation. There are firm tannins, dense fruit and a touch of spice too. The depth on the palate with brambly blackcurrant fruit, structural oak and excellent length, is a highlight. Whilst this is on the third rung of the Cape Mentelle quality ladder, this is a serious, high quality wine that deserves time in the cellar. Excellent buying at under $25, but give it plenty of air if you are going to drink it soon.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Hannah’s Hill – 2011 (17.6). Dense fruit on a nose that is ripe and alluring, yet still quite tight. The fruit is quite bright, showing cassis and minty notes. The palate is quite firm and austere, suggesting that this wine needs a few years to reach its drinking window. We had this as the first wine of the tasting, which is always difficult when the wines are tannic.

Marri Wood Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Appealing aromas of red and blueberry fruit, with a touch of eucalypt and new oak (cedar and coconut). There is dense, ripe fruit, with supple tannins that coat the mouth. There is excellent length and mouth-feel to close. I assume the “Reserve” title is due to the amount of time this wine spent in new oak. Time will tell whether the medium-weight fruit will fully integrate with the oak, but this is an appealing wine all the same.

Galafrey – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (17.4). I like the balance here. The good quality fruit has been matched well to fine-grained oak. The tannins are ripe and fine while the fruit expresses itself on the finish. The palate is long and succulent, with chewy tannins to close. Perhaps a touch rustic, but an enjoyable wine.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2010 (16.9). Ripe fruit that is forward and succulent. The palate is quite simple, but balanced and supple. A good, early drinking style, with very fine tannins and a hint of oak. Not overly concentrated, but this is varietally correct. At under $10, this is another screaming bargain from the team at Angove. (This received a gold medal from one taster).

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot -2011 (16.5). Ripe fruits with a touch of menthol and sweet oak on the nose. This is a relatively straightforward wine that is very easy to drink. The tannins are supple and add texture to the finish.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 18 September 2012

A strong line up of wines, though there was some diversity to the styles, reflecting the different locations in which the grapes were grown.

Reviewed

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (18). Quite firm and tannic, the fruit is ripe, if a touch lean right now. Excellent length on the palate. This just needs a few years to open up and settle down. A serious wine, the points are for potential.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2008 (18). Taught, fine, but unrewarding at present. There are hints of berry fruit and excellent length. Like all the wines wearing the “Art Series” label, this is a wine that needs many years to show its best, but will reward in spades.

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2010 (17.7). Cooler climate fruit with strong mint over red fruits. The acid is a little forward on the palate initially, but this has high quality fruit and textured, yet fine oak. Dense and long, with dusty tannins. If you like Bordeaux, this age-worthy wine is worth a try.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Sweet ripe fruit up front, with tar, cedar and attractive spice notes. Blackberry, tar, cedar and hints of cassis, with good length and texture to close. Whilst there is forward fruit, the oak and fruit tannins need to soften before this will reach peak drinking. Cellar for at least 5 years.

Fairbrossen – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5). Mint and eucalypt to open in the nose. Darker fruits than on the Killerby. On the palate there is blueberries, spice and a silky mouth-feel that is attractive. Very long, the tannins are fine and the oak sits well with the fruit. The fruit quality is good, but the winemaking is excellent.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude Vineyards – 2007 (17.5). Powerful fruit that belies the “second wine” status of this wine. The palate is dense with chewy tannins. The cooler area fruit defines this wine. A serious wine that took 3-4 days to open up and show its best! Worth trying if you like cool climate cabernet fruit.

Cabernet – New Release

Reviewed: 5 September 2012

 

A strong line up of wines here. There are many that are worthy of mention, but the two that I will single out are the Howard Park Miamup and the Parker Terra Rossa. Both are excellent and represent very strong value for money.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block Reserve – 2009 (18+). I struggled with the power of this initially. It is a big wine with precise, ripe fruit that has been expertly handled. The density of the fruit is superb and the finish extraordinarily refined. Not classic cool climate cabernet, but a superb wine for the cellar.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). This is a smart wine. Blackcurrant fruit is the primary character on the nose, but there is a touch of quality oak in the background. The texture is silky and supple. The tannins are very fine, conferring a degree of drinkability, but I get the impression that this will improve for some time and live even longer. Super effort.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Miamup – 2010 (18). Very intense nose that is ripe, yet restrained. There is obvious power to the fruit. The palate is restrained and tight, but the quality of the fruit is undeniable. The finish is long and very fine, but needs a few years to show its best. The best wine we have seen in this range, it should be around $25.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2008 (18). A dense wine that is just a baby. There is chocolate fruit with hints of tar. The finish is very textured and layered. The oak and fruit blend well. This will evolve for a long time, but the ripe fruit reflects the excellent growing season. Well made, this is an excellent wine.

Parker – Cabernet Sauvignon – Terra Rossa – 2008 (17.8+). Menthol and eucalypt to open that is typical of Coonawarra. The nose is initially quite restrained and tight. The palate has good length, and the fruit builds on the finish. There are dusty tannins to close that frame the fruit. With air, this really hit its straps showing dense ripe fruit of very high quality. The depth and richness continued to build for some time and made the perfect accompaniment to a piece of steak. Will be even better in a few years.

Stormflower – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Dry Red – 2010 (17.8). A very smart wine. The fruit is dense and textured and the length excellent. There is chocolate and spice on the palate. A rich and dense wine that is textured, ripe and balanced.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – S.R.S. – 2010 (17.7++). Lovely ripe fruit that has mint and red currant on the nose. This has lovely fruit. The balance is excellent and the mouth-feel superb. The silky finish is very long and the fruit continues to evolve. The oak and tannins on the finish balance the fruit well. Very smart early drinking, but this will evolve and improve for at least 5 years. From Wilyabrub, this has high quality fruit and is very well made.

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Davey Estate – 2010 (17.5). Slightly dusty, earth fruit here with hints of chocolate that good McLaren Vale reds can get. The palate has rich, velvety fruit with silk tannins. There is a touch of grip on the finish from the oak and tannins, but this complements the juicy fruit nicely. Not overblown, just ripe and concentrated.

Cabernet – New Release

Western Australia

Reviewed 6 July 2012

The standout wine from this tasting was the Pedestal cabernet sauvignon. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine that also represents great value with a RRP of $25. The Yard wines, also by Mr Cherubino, are also excellent, though they are not as approachable as the Pedestal right now.

Finally, the Stella Bella is a fantastic example of cool climate cabernet. The style will not appeal to everyone, but I love it.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Pusey Rd Vineyard – 2010 (18). Lovely fruit on the nose and palate, though the fruit is somewhat subdued at present. The palate is very precise, with excellent line and length. There is a silky mouth-feel, with fine fruit (and oak) tannins that build in the mouth. Cedary oak rounds out the finish to what is an impressive wine. Will age well in the medium term. From Margaret River.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Yard – Riversdale Vineyard – 2010 (18). Remarkably different fruit expression compared to the Pusey Rd Vineyard. The wine is lean and angular as the very fine fruit is very elegant, but not expressive now. This wine is in no way green, it is just not rewarding right now. . A finer style that will improve with years in the bottle. A complex wine that will reward extended cellaring. From Frankland River.

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2010 (18). I like this for its medium-bodied fruit and elegance. The nose is complex and evolving, with savoury accents to add interest. The palate is supple, long, elegant and balanced. This is quite restrained at present but is layered with complexity. Made by Larry Cherubino, this is an excellent wine and by far the best buy of the tasting at around $25.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Serie Luminosa – 2009 (18). I like this. There is coffee and bitter chocolate over dark brooding fruit. There is obviously cooler climate fruit here as there are tomato leaf and eucalypt hints on the nose. Importantly, the fruit is perfectly ripe, albeit in a much cooler style. Cinnamon and spice from the high quality oak adds complexity to the finish. Age worthy.

Windows Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Basket Pressed – 2010 (17.8). A very complex nose! Licorice, cinnamon, spice and dark fruits all meld together to make a real impact. The palate is firm and a touch angular, but this promises a lot. The dark fruits build in the mouth, making this quite approachable now. I would like, however to give this 5 to 10 years to allow the multiple facets to come together into a great drink.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (17.5+). Enchanting nose that is full of red fruits, with complex forest floor characters over the top. The fruit on the palate starts off shy, but becomes quite juicy and mouth-watering with air. Fine tannins come through on the finish, though this suppresses the fruit now. Another good wine from this producer.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Next of Kin – 2010 (17.3). Vibrant, lifted fruit on the nose. The palate has forward fruit, with souring acidity that adds freshness and life. This is a wine that really calls for food to bring out its best. Supple oak adds to the close. Fruit forward and good drinking.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011 (17). I like this wine for its purity of fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, nicely textured and just a touch linear, but a few years should see it flesh out and develop more complexity. Points for potential and drinkability.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2010 (17). This possesses a solid core of ripe fruit that tends towards plum with spice hints. The palate is supple and fine with tannins that add grip and help carry the finish. Good length, the plump fruit suggests a riper year for the region.

Cracking Cabernets

Last Sunday Tasting Group

Reviewed: 27th May 2012

As many of you know, this is my favourite wine-related activity each month. Good wine, good food and great friends!

This month was my turn to host the event and with winter on its way, I thought it time to move to more structured red wines i.e. Cracking Cabernets! As is often the case with tasting older wines, cork related problems ruined several of the wines. Once again, I say a prayer of thanks for the humble screw cap.

The highlight of the tasting was the 2003 Gladstone by Houghton. A spectacularly good wine that will put many Bordeauxs costing hundreds of dollars a bottle to shame. Also worthy of mention are the wines from Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Katnook and Leasingham.

Reviewed

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstone – 2003 (18.6). Undoubtedly the star of the tasting. This wine was so good that my tasting notes were reduced to a series of descriptors! Silky, ripe, supple and fine, this is high quality, yet still youthful. Very long and fine, this is all about elegance. Excellent fruit quality that has been superbly handled. Seamless and silky, with succulent fruit to close.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18.5). Delicious nose, delicious palate! Textured, long and very persistent, with mint and eucalypt fruit notes with hints of vanillin oak. This is youthful, fresh and destined for a very long life.

Katnook – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1998 (18.4). Gorgeous nose that speaks of quality Coonawara fruit. Lovely menthol over chocolate fruit, with silky tannins that hold the palate together perfectly. Fully mature but will drink for years.

Leasingham – Cabernet Sauvignon – Classic Clare – 1996 (18.3). Mint and eucalypt fruit that is perfectly ripe. This is a very intense wine with inky, almost chocolate fruit. Very intense wine with mouth-watering acidity. Youthful and taut, this will live for years, so have it with food if you must drink it now.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 1995 (18.2). Menthol and chocolate on what is a very complex wine with excellent length of flavours. Textured and delicious, the tannins are a mere memory on the round and developed palate.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2001 (18.2). Cool fruit characters. Firm, but the developed notes are very attractive. Polished tannins are fine and silky. Quite linear in the mouth and a touch angular but really opens up in the glass. Decant to serve.

Clos du Marquis – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (18). Serious fruit on the nose and palate. The intensity is a standout. Very long and textured, with no rough edges. More developed than the Moss Wood.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 (18). A very convincing wine. Real depth to the fruit and excellent length. This is fully developed, round and generous with textured chocolate fruit. Delicious.

Piaggia de’Colli – Cabernet Franc – Toscana – 2006 (18). Complex wine reminiscent of fine Bordeaux. The palate is bigger and richer than I expected. Chocolate oak, powerful fruit and firm tannins make for a meal in itself. Chewy finish to a superb wine.

Grosset – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (17.5). A Lovely wine that is just entering its drinking window. Rightly considered one of Australia’s best examples of the blend, though noticeable different to the Western Australian style.

Orlando – Cabernet Sauvignon – St Hugo – 1996 (17). I was not as enthusiastic as some, but a very good wine.

Matanzas Creek – Cabernet Sauvignon – Sonoma County – 2001 (16). Coffee, toffee and chocolate. A very interesting wine that provides drinking pleasure, but has a quite medicinal nose.

Chateau Gloria – Bordeaux – 1995 (NR). Another stuffed cork.

Chateau D’angudet – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margeaux – 1982 (N.R.).

Virgin Hills – Red Blend – 1999 (N.R.). Two bottles and two bad corks.

Wendoorie – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 1998 (NR). Shame about the cork!

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Reviewed: 25th May 2012.

A real mix here, though some very worthwhile wines. The picks for me came from Juniper Estate and Higher Plane, though the Ringbolt may turn out to be the best value down the track.

Reviewed

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18.1). Serious fruit on the nose that is intense, focused and balanced. Cedary oak makes the palate muted at present, but this should evolve. Very structured and tight, with quality fruit, wine-making and oak but be very patient.

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). Interesting nose showing hints of plum and spice. The palate has excellent acidity and fine tannins making the finish quite lively. Not much primary fruit at this point in its development, so an excellent food wine in a European style. Will get better in time.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Isolation Ridge – 2010 (17.7+). Attractive, elegant and refined, with lovely red fruits and a hint of cherry. The fruit has been expertly handled in the winery so that the delicate fruit has not been swamped by winemaking inputs. Easy to drink now, but will be even better in 5 -10 years.

Ringbolt – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5+). Plenty of minty fruit here. On the palate there is slightly chewy fruit though the oak and fruit tannins totally shut down the palate. I need to see this again as it is no doubt high quality, it just does not show well today.

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17+). Cassis, intense fruit and menthol on the nose. Textured, ripe and complex, with a very long palate. Excellent oak use adds depth to the palate. A touch of eucalypt to close, but no green flavours. Lovely mouth-feel and texture to a quality wine.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Next of Kin – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine, with vanilla bean over redcurrent. The flavour profile matches the nose and the texture is first-rate.

Chalk Board – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawara – 2010 (16.8). Well rounded wine with no rough edges. Blackcurrant fruit with hints of cedar and spice. The palate is mouth-filling and the succulent fruit builds intensity over time. Excellent tannin structure makes for a lovely wine. (Made by Penley Estate).

Drakesbrook – Malbec – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.8+). Pristine and bright fruit, with a degree of focus. The palate has real depth to the fruit and the winemaking (oak) is sympathetic. Popular with the entire panel, this took a couple of days to really open up and will be better in a few years.

De Bortoli– Merlot – La Bossa – 2010 (16.2). Fleshy fruit on the nose, with plum aromas. Juicy and plump palate with reasonable length and no oak to speak of. Easy drinking and good value.

Haut Bardin – Bordeaux – 2010 (16). Nothing wrong here, it is just that I do not get anything specific.