Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Tawny (Port) and Other Fortified Wines

Australian Fortified Wines Part Two: Tawny (Port) and Other Fortified Wines

3^rd August 2016

In Portugal, there are dozens of grape varieties permitted in the production of Port.

Tinta Barroca,
Tinta Cão,
Tinta Roriz
Touriga Francesa,
Touriga Nacional)

A full list can be found here.

The Australian equivalent does not have the same restrictions, meaning that grapes like Shiraz and Grenache can make up the backbone of a blend.

As a result of labelling laws, the use of the term Port is no longer allowed for wines made outside of Portugal. This has not caused a problem for the non-vintage wines, as they have been able to retain the word Tawny. For Vintage Port, this has been more problematic. Many wineries have reverted to using Vintage Fortified, and may also include the grape variety.

Like the Muscats and Tokays reviewed previously, these wines will last for days or even weeks once opened, allowing a glass to be had whenever you like!

Reviewed.

Angove – Tawny – Grand – 10 years (17.5pts – $25). Light tawny colour. Fresh, with fruit cake and Christmas pudding notes. Excellent length and follow-through add to the enjoyment. Not overly dense, but a good drink with a touch of nuttiness on the close. 500mls

Morris – Tawny – Classic (17.6pts – $21.25). Red-brown colour. Fresh red fruits, with raisins, cinnamon, spice and orange peel. Good length and a harmonious finish balanced by the acidity. Easy drinking and satisfying. 500mls.

De Bortoli – Tawny – Fine Tawny – 8 years old (17.5pts – $25). Starts with a spirituous lift, over rum & raisin, fruit cake and spice, on a nose that is quite pretty. The palate is fresh and lively, with an uncomplicated structure. Another good drink, requiring no accompaniment. 750mls

De Bortoli – Tawny – Old Boys – 21 Year Old – Barrel Aged (18.6ts – $45). Darker hue – tawny tending to amber. Whilst this is intense and powerful, there is a degree of subtlety and excellent balance. The acidity and judicious use of younger material has added life to what is a complex, aged wine. Relatively light, this would be great with sharp cheddar at the start or end of an evening. The label indicates the bottling date, which is a great service to consumers. (Bottled 2015). 500mls.Patritti – Tawny – Rare – Old Fortified Wine (18 – 18.5pts – $30). Initially quite spirituous, with a resin-like streak. Clearly aged material, this reminds me of a Bual Madera, with its drying palate, moderate sweetness, obvious Rancio characters and sea spray freshness. This is an unusual style, but is an excellent wine. You could even serve this slightly chilled as an aperitif. Great value in a 750ml bottle.

Talijancich – Tawny – Rare – Blend No 2 (18.7pts – $80). Aged 30 years. Massive, intense wine with Rancio and spirit notes. The palate is powerful, dense and rich, showing more viscosity than most here. Clearly very old material, with higher levels of sweetness and balancing acidity. Rich, textured and seamless, a traditional Swan Valley Tawny style. An impressive wine that would delight with a chocolate pudding. 350mls.

Angove – Tawny – Rare – 15 years (18.2pts – $45). Again, an old base is used here. Herbal notes with a spirituous lift and zesty notes. Excellent poise and balance in an intense, impressive wine. Only moderately sweet and very long! Serve with (and on) quality vanilla ice-cream. Whilst an average age of 15 years would not classify as rare for other producers, this is still an excellent wine. 750mls

Muscat and Tokay

Australian Fortified Wines

Part One – Muscat and Tokay

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2016

Whilst Australia has a very long association with fortified wine production, popularity has waned over a number of decades, as table wine consumption increased. This has been a mixed blessing for consumers.

The lack of demand has seen stocks of aged materials increase. This has allowed the inclusion of older materials in blend. This may have contributed to the introduction of a qualification system to give an indication of the relative age of the wine.

The down side is that it has impinged on the viability of many wineries. Just last week, the owners of Morris wines announced that they will be closing the winery (though keeping the brand).

In regards to the qualification system, there are four levels that have been established to give consumers an indication of the age and quality of the wines.

Grape/region
Classic
Grand
Rare

Confusingly, there is significant variation from one winery to the next as to how old these should be. The Angove “Rare” for example, would only qualify for the classic designation if it was produced by All Saints. Indeed, All Saints has the strictest criteria of all wineries reviewed.

In the tastings, this translated into a situation where the base level wines from All Saints scored higher than several of the Classics and even a Grand from other producers.

Another cause for confusion is the introduction of labelling laws that prohibit the use of certain names. For example, Sherry, Port and Tokay are all required to be phased out.

Over the coming weeks, I will review a number of different styles/grapes. The focus will be on the sweeter styles, suitable for drinking on a cold night in front of a warm fire!

Muscat and Tokay

When sourcing wines for this tasting, I was surprised that there were not more examples of Tokay (Topaque). 15 years ago, I am sure that there was a fairly even split between Tokay and Muscat availability, but a trip to Dan Murphy provided only a few examples. In contrast, there was a large selection of Muscats, of varying qualities.

My recollection was that the Tokays tended to be slightly less sweet, with great balance. Perhaps the richness of the Muscats has won over consumers’ palates…

In this group, the designated quality level did not always correlate with the preference of the panel. The base wines from All Saints were brilliant, proving that the age of the wine alone does not always correlate with quality. In these wines, the balance and harmony more than made up for the relatively youthful base wines. They are wines to drink and enjoy.

As the wines moved up the quality ladder, and the base material increased in age, there was an obvious increase in the intensity of the wines on the palate. In the best examples, this was matched by brilliantly judged acidity, ensuring that the wines were full of life and avoided becoming cloying. Wines for sipping and savouring, as well as drinking.

The age and quality of many of these wines, combined with the fact that a small taste is often enough, makes them excellent value in my opinion. The style also keeps well once open, allowing the wine to be consumed over a number of days/weeks. But only if you are disciplined enough…

Tokay

All Saints – Muscadelle – Rutherglen (18.2pts – $22). Amber, tending to green on the rim. Not overly complex nose, with raisin/fruit cake aromas. The palate is viscous and mouth coating, with honey-like fruit tending to caramel sauce. Youthful, yet delicious and quite fine and elegant, with a long, supple finish complemented by cleansing acidity. Great combination of old and new material and a joy to drink. 375mls

Buller – Tokay – Fine Old Tokay – NV (17.9pts – $25). Colour is amber, tending to burnt orange. Toffee, caramel and some aged aromas over fresh raisins. Viscous, thick, dense, long and intense, yet shows lovely acid balance with enough freshness to add life. The addition of some old material adds depth. A tremendous bargain! 750mls

Seppeltsfield – Tokay – Grand – DP57 (18+ pts – $38). Olive-green rimmed. Very intense, with a significant amount of aged material. The flavours evolve on the palate for some time in turn showing dusty notes, raisin, caramel and orange rind. Rancio notes and balancing acidity makes this rich and powerful wine a joy to drink. 500mls.

Morris – Tokay – Classic – Liqueur (17.7pts – $21.25). Lighter colour, yet still in the amber spectrum. Heady aromas of malted barley, with some aged, Rancio notes adding depth. There is also a fresh spirit lift. The palate is viscous and sweet with an almost orange liqueur flavour. Perfect with a rich fruit cake or just poured over ice-cream. Delicious! 500mls.

Muscat

All Saints – Muscat – Rutherglen (18.3pts – $22). Burnt orange, tending to amber colour. This is sweet and perfumed, with musk, caramel and hints of honey. Whilst sweet, this is not cloying as the blend of aged and young material and excellent acidity makes this absolutely delicious. A lighter style and a great drink! 375mls.

Morris – Muscat – Classic – Liqueur (17.8 – $21.25). The colour is burnt orange all the way to the meniscus. A fragrant Muscat nose with hints of orange, spice, treacle and toffee aromas over fresh spirit notes. The palate is sweet and relatively straightforward, with fresh material adding life. Good acid balance. Uncomplicated and moreish. 500mls

Lamont’s – Muscat (18pts – $30). Olive/khaki colour. Opens with rum & raisin ice-cream and herbal notes. There is decent complexity too. The palate is thick and dense; one of the more viscous examples. The balance is key here, with fresh acidity adding life to the sweet fruit. Excellent length and a drying finish reminiscent of oloroso sherry. Very old material blended in. Great on its own, or with a crème caramel. 375mls.

Morris – Muscat – Grand – Liqueur Muscat – Cellar Reserve (18.7pts – $50). The colour here is several shades darker – almost opaque dark brown. Incredibly intense and complex nose that is oh-so-enticing. Rancio characters to the fore on both the nose and palate suggesting the inclusion of very old material. The palate is thick and almost chewy, the flavours coming in waves along the palate. Think burnt toffee/caramel, with coffee and dark chocolate notes. The finish is remarkable for the freshness and life. Unctuous liqueur style. 500mls.

De Bortoli – Muscat – Show Liqueur – NV (18.5pts – $25). Lighter colour – tawny and crystal clear. Fresh orange and cinnamon notes on both the nose and palate, with caramel, toffee and fruit cake. Excellent length and mouth-feel. Not as thick or viscous as some, with more fresh material. Possesses a lovely balance aided by a drying finish. Intense and very long. A brilliant value wine for drinking as well as sipping. 500mls.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 21^st July 2016

A decade ago, the wines from Woodside Valley Estate started to make a real impact. I reviewed the 2004 Baudin (Cabernet Sauvignon) very well and have several bottles in my cellar. They also supplied fruit to other wineries in the region.

The illness and untimely death of Ron Wood (one of the founders) led to the demise of the label. Whilst the venture continues to supply fruit, the wine side has been revived under the Brash label, with wines made by Bruce Duke. The 2013 and 2014 are reviewed here and are worth seeking out. (The 2014 is yet to be released).

The Leston by Howard Park is a brilliant wine. So approachable, yet age worthy. The panel really enjoyed the Flametree Embers; a wine that represents excellent value drinking. Penfolds Max’s also showed very well, albeit in a richer style.

Finally, I know nothing about Polguern Estate, but their Cabernet came up well in this tasting and represents decent value.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2013 (18.5+pts – $45). A superb wine that is textbook Margaret River Cabernet. Subtle, balanced and very long, Janice McDonald has worked magic with the high quality fruit. This is so approachable that many will have trouble keeping this in the cellar. That would be a shame, as this will only get better over the next decade or more.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Max’s – 2014 (18.5pts – $34). This is a big, richly textured wine, with chewy, intense fruit. The balance is noteworthy, as is the depth to the palate. Mint, herbal notes and cherry/red berry fruit all come to mind, with dark chocolate notes. A different style to the wines from Western Australia, but no less age-worthy.

Brash – Cabernet Sauvignon – Single Vineyard – 2014 (18.5pts – $35). There is something a little special about this wine, with real depth and power to the fruit. The palate is initially defined by the acidity, but the fruit and tannins build for what seems like minutes in the mouth. Very dense, yet with balance and poise.

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014 (18pts – $37). Real depth to the fruit, yet the balance and poise are remarkable. Redolent of red fruits, the tannins and oak sit well behind the supple fruit, though the tannins build on the finish. Great drinking any time over the next 10 years.

Brash – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. (17.9pts – $38). Wow, the vibrant, perfumed fruit here is very attractive. The palate is silky, ripe, balanced, fresh and vibrant. The tannins and oak sit comfortably behind the fruit. Supple and savoury. Great anytime in the next 10 years.

Rosa Brook – Cabernet Sauvignon – Single Vineyard – Estate – 2013 (18). Darker fruit characters on the nose. The palate is firm and structured, with taut acidity and fine tannins holding the fruit in check. Undeniable quality, though this needs 10 years to really start to open up. A serious wine.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Embers – 2014 (17.8pts). Fragrant, perfumed and pretty. The palate is fresh and approachable, yet there is depth to the fruit with hints of coffee and chocolate. A lovely wine that will also improve in the bottle for a few years. Delicious and a great value.

Polguern Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Pharaoh’s Tribute – 2013 (17.5pts – $21). Fragrant mulberry-like fruit, with vanillin oak hints and souring cherry acidity that adds freshness. Long, supple and balanced. Excellent medium-bodied style with finesse. From Roleystone.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 Release

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 20 July 2016

Wynns Black Label Cabernet is one of the most important wines in Australia’s wine history. A wine that has formed the backbone of many Australian cellars for over 50 years. According to James Halliday, the first Wynns Cabernet was released in 1954!

I have been fortunate enough to drink Wynns Cabernet back as far as the 1960 vintage (with a white label at the time) and can attest to their ability to age superbly.

John Riddoch was first released in 1982, and has gradually evolved in style over the subsequent decades. The current release is a very fine wine, with an alcohol level of only 13.5%.

The single vineyard wines are a relatively new phenomenon, with the Harold being first released in 2001. Other vineyards highlighted in previous years include Messenger, Johnson Block and Alex 88.

James Halliday gives more information on the history of Wynns, and the winery’s website provides a wealth of information.

Wines will be available on Wynnsday – 3^rd August 2016

Reviewed

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Black Label” – 2014 (18.5pts – $45). Chocolate/mint notes over ripe blackcurrant/raspberry fruit and hints of savoury oak. This is a powerful wine, with rich, textured fruit matched to fine, yet firm tannins. That said, the balance is noteworthy and the length commendable. Very approachable, yet guaranteed to live for years. An excellent black label, deserving of its reputation.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Harold – 2013 – (18.5pts – $80). Quite a contrast to the black label. A lighter, fresher style that puts balance and poise ahead of opulence. Menthol, blackcurrant and savoury notes are balanced by fine acidity. The oak is only there for texture, allowing the fruit to shine. A feminine mid-weight wine that will cellar well for a decade or more. (13.0% alc).

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 2013 (18.7pts – $130). In a similar style to the Black Label, however there is more restraint and elegance to the concentrated, high-quality fruit. Opens with raspberry and cassis notes on the nose. The palate is balanced, refined and elegant, with the tannins and oak providing depth rather than overt flavour. Souring plum-like acidity adds life and interest. A lovely red that is irresistible now, yet will age well for at least 10 years.

Juniper Estate and Higher Planes

Barry Weinman: 11^th July 2016

Wrights was one of the earliest wineries established in the Margaret River region. In 1998 the winery was sold and the new owners renamed the winery Juniper Estate. Given this, Juniper Estate has some of the oldest vines in the region.

Coinciding with the purchase, Mark Messenger was brought in as winemaker, and has been there ever since. Mark had a good idea of what the vineyards were capable of, as he had worked at other wineries in the area that had been purchasing fruit from Wrights.

The venture expanded in 2007, with the purchase of the Higher Planes winery and vineyards, and winemaking for this was brought in-house. The Higher Planes vineyards are further south than Juniper Estate and the wines are vinified and bottled separately to that of Juniper Estate.

This seems to confer a slight difference in style, with the Higher Planes reds appearing pretty and elegant, whilst the Juniper reds appear more masculine and firm.

N.B. As these wines were not reviewed blind, no points have been allocated.

Reviewed

Higher Planes – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2015. ($20). A 50/50 blend with lifted fruit and grassy undertones. Whilst only 5% of the wine had barrel fermentation, this was enough to really flesh out the texture, in combination with a degree of lees stirring. Vibrant acidity on the finish adds vitality.

Higher Planes – Chardonnay – 2013. ($37). This is a modern, yet accessible wine with ripe stone fruit and creamy/nutty notes. The palate is taut and elegant, with creamy oak adding texture. The finish is near seamless. Single vineyard, wild yeast fermentation, 100% Gin Gin clone.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 ($50 though on special for $34 from the winery). The vineyard is planted at 4500 vines per hectare. The wine has lovely, complex dark fruits over cedar and spice. This is taut, textured and complex, with the really fine tannins and oak shutting the fruit down at present. Give it time.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (October Release). Cooler fruit characters compared to Juniper Estate, with mint, spice and blueberries. The oak frames the fruit, adding depth and structure. A very fine wine with great balance.

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – Messenger – 2012 ($65). A Cabernet dominant Bordeaux blend. Pretty aromatic fruit that has floral and berry characters over mineral and earthy notes. The palate is savoury and textured, with the oak adding depth. A complex wine with restrained power and excellent length. Great now, but better in 10+ years.

Juniper Estate – Semillon – 2014 ($30). I am not sure why more straight Semillon is not produced in the region, as this is a cracking wine. Lovely ripe fruit, with savoury/grassy notes and hints of citrus, tropical fruit and gentle spice from the oak. Quite textural with a drying finish.

Juniper Estate – Chardonnay – 2014 ($37). From a cooler vintage. Modern and taut, this appears a touch finer than the Higher Planes, with grapefruit, stone-fruit and cashew notes. The creamy oak adds depth on both the nose and palate. Will flesh out with a couple of years in bottle. Wild yeast/Gin Gin and Clone 95 (25%).

Juniper Estate – Cabernet blend – Aquitaine Rouge – 2012 ($37). A new addition to the range, designed to be an earlier drinking style. Contains all five Bordeaux varieties. Fragrant mulberry fruit with attractive blueberry notes courtesy of the inclusion of 17% Malbec. The spicy fruit is complemented by supple, textural oak and fine tannins. Great drinking any time over the next 5+ years.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet blend – Aquitaine Rouge –2013 (Released this month). Again, this has delicious blueberry fruit combined with plum notes. Compared to the 2011, the fruit has more density and texture, and the graphite/mineral characters give way to slightly dusty tannins. Give it an hour in a decanter before drinking to let the fruit open up.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 ($60). Made entirely from the original 1973 dry-grown vineyard, from a warmer year. This has more generous fruit, with blackcurrant and cassis notes and a touch of mint and eucalypt. The finish is taut and structured, with dusty tannins and textured oak. The palate transition is note-worthy.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (Released this month). A powerful wine, with brooding, brambly fruit. With air, the fruit gets really fragrant and pretty. A great wine in the making, though a little patience will be required.

Castagna Wines

Barry Weinman – 5^th July 2016

The original vineyards at Castagna were planted by Julian Castagna in 1997 and are now certified Biodynamic. Winemaking is handled by Julian who has a strong desire to let the fruit and the region speak for itself. That said, if there is one similarity to all the wines, it is the textural way the wines express on the palate. There are plenty of winemaker’s influences, yet the elegant fruit is allowed to shine.

The fruit for the Growers Selection range comes from several local vineyards, whilst the Castagna range is all from the estate vineyards. All wines are sealed with a Diam cork, removing the risks associated with natural cork.

Given the praise that the wines of Castagna have received on the East Coast, it has always surprised me that their profile has not been higher in the West. That is set to change after a chance meeting of proprietor Julian Castagna with Rob Palandri from distributor Vranken Pommery, which led to a distribution agreement.

My favourites within the range are listed below, but also watch out for a really interesting Vermouth!

Reviewed.

Castagna – Chardonnay – Grower’s Selection – 2014. ($50). Complex worked characters as a result of extended aging in oak and on lees. Very attractive curry leaf minerality, stone fruit and struck match aromas. The palate is creamy and textured, yet with a degree of freshness and verve. The palate is very long, with pineapple acidity to close.

Castagna – White Blend – Harlequin – 2013 ($35). Floral and perfumed, with apricot, nectarine and hints of almond. The palate is textured, somewhat viscous and very delicious, with a slightly chewy finish. A wine with personality that will work well with food.

Castagna – Sangiovese – La Chiave – 2013 ($85). The Sangiovese is thought to be the Brunello clone. Cuttings were sourced from a vine in Mirtleford that was planted in the 1920s by a migrant from Montalcino. Lovely pepper and spice, with a silky mouth-feel. The finish is long, fine and textured, with the red fruits lingering for some time. Supple and delicious!

Castagna – Shiraz – Genesis – 2013 ($85). Vine cuttings came from 1850s plantings sourced from five vineyards in Victoria and McLaren Vale. Cinnamon, plum, licorice and savoury spice notes on the nose. The palate is dense, yet refined, with slightly chewy tannins. Almost feminine, this is remarkably approachable, but will live for years, courtesy of the excellent acid balance. Spent almost two years in oak and includes 2% Viognier.

Pinot Noir – New Release

Barry Weinman: 3^rd July 2016

Ethereal at its best, yet notoriously difficult to get right. Given the challenges in producing the wine, finding good value Pinot is indeed difficult.

This task has been made a little easier with the release of the 2014 Artemis Pinot Noir from the Southern Highlands of NSW. The quality is excellent and, at $25 from Dan Murphy, the value is undeniable.

Howard Park’s Flint Rock is another excellent value wine, from a producer normally associated with Cabernet. A pretty, elegant style from the Great Southern.

The Walkerville Pinot has an interesting back-story. Produced by the Rich family (Philip Rich is formerly of Prince Wine Store), the wine is made by the talented Sandro Mosele from Kooyong Estate. The first vines were planted in 2006, and 2013 is the first vintage released (220 dozen produced).

Reviewed

Artemis – Pinot Noir – Southern Highlands – 2014 (18pts – $25). Lighter hue. Lovely fruit here. This is an elegant style, where the fine structural components frame the gentle fruit nicely. Excellent length and the finish fans out across the palate. Will evolve and build for a few years in bottle, as the fruit builds depth with air. A bargain!

Walkerville – Pinot Noir – South Gippsland – 2013 (18pts – $55). This has rich, high quality fruit, and the wine has been seriously made. Cherry, plum, fennel, spice, with hints of cedar from the oak. The tannins shut down the finish, so give it a bit of air. The palate is very long and textured. A savoury treat that would be a delight with roast duck.Howard Park – Pinot Noir – Flint Rock – 2015 (17.8pts – $28). Vibrant, forward, sweet fruit, with hints of fennel and spice. Cherry flavours on the palate are balanced by souring acidity. Was even better the next day. Delicious, this will also do well with a couple of years in the bottle.

Yerring Station – Pinot Noir – Village – 2013 (17.5pts – $24). Subdued initially, building a pretty floral fragrancy with air. The palate is slightly sappy and savoury, with decent length. Builds density and complexity in the glass, with the fruit evolving for some time on the finish. Slightly chewy tannins to close suggest short-term cellaring might be in order. Good value.

Western Australian Cabernet – 2012 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 20^th May 2016

Over the last few weeks, I have written about the fantastic Cabernets from Xanadu and Houghton, ranking both amongst the best Cabernets from Western Australia. The only trouble is that these were not blind tastings, so label bias is a factor.

So when the opportunity arose to try these wines in a blind line up of some of WA’s finest, I jumped at the chance. Hosted by Lamont’s – Cottesloe, the tasting allowed me to put these wines into perspective, when compared to their peers.

There were many great wines in the line-up, with almost all scoring 18.5 or higher. Every wine reviewed here is brilliant, but if I had to single out one wine on the day, the pick for me was Houghton’s Jack Mann. This is of course subjective, as other reviewers had a different favourite.

From a value perspective, the Parterre from Fraser Gallop is worth a mention. This was up with the best from a quality perspective, yet is available for under $40.

Reviewed

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2012 (19pts). Almost ethereal, this has great presence on both the nose and palate, with the subtle fruit perfectly matched to the structural components. The palate shows mulberry fruit, supple tannins and great length, aided by a touch of minerality. A magnificent wine that almost defies description.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2012 (18.8pts – $350). Supple and delicious fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and dense, with the fine tannins and acid playing the perfect counterfoil, ensuring great balance. The oak adds depth on the finish, but also just closes the fruit a little. A lovely wine that will be great any time over the next 20 years.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2012. (18.8pts). Full of restraint and elegance, with a touch of mint and eucalypt on the nose. Continues on the palate, with the ever-so-fine fruit balanced perfectly against the oak and tannins. The acid is polished and gives the finish drive. Very long and very moreish, this is a great wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2012 (18.7pts). The fruit has a slightly cooler feel, with the mint and eucalypt set against elegant blackberry and cherry notes. The palate is taut and fine, though this needs time to really hit its straps. A great wine with the structure to live in the cellar for decades.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – John Riddoch – 2012 (18.7pts $120). Dark, brambly fruit, with almost a hint of crushed ants, chocolate and menthol. Tremendous depth and power to the fruit, yet this remains balanced and harmonious. The finish is driven by the fine acidity, with the tannins and oak building on the close. Classic Coonawarra and an impressive wine.

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2012 (18.7pts). Mint, eucalypt, and fresh herbal notes over red berry fruit. The palate is fine and supple, with the savoury tannins complementing the fruit superbly. Long, supple and delicious, this appears quite fruit forward initially, but the structure builds to close down the finish. Impressive.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2012 (18.7pts). Fragrant, almost pretty fruit, with blackberry and an almost tar-like minerality. The palate is refined and fresh, with great length. The structural components slowly building on the finish. A sleeper, this is a wine that will only get better over the coming years. Points for potential.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.7pts). Ripe blackcurrant and mulberry, with hints of cassis and spice. The nose is quite hedonistic and very attractive. The palate is fine and silky, yet full of life, with exquisite fruit quality and super-fine tannins. A remarkable, elegant wine that is a joy to drink. Will open and build for 15+ years, but irresistible now.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2012 (18.6). Closed and unyielding on both the nose and the palate. Whilst the palate transition is near seamless, the fruit is subdued and needs time to open up, as the classy oak and fine tannins keep everything in check. No denying the quality, but patience is required.

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.6). Closed and taut, with precise ripe fruit, hints of spice and an almost graphite-like note. The palate is dark and brooding, with brambly fruit shrouded in a cloak of fine oak and tannins. Powerful and very long, this is a wine that needs 10 – 15 years to start to approach its best. Stately, in the style of Pauliac.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2012 (18.6pts). More accessible fruit, with red currant and plum notes. The palate is rich and vibrant, with the plum fruit giving way to souring acidity that perfectly matches the fruit and slightly chewy/textural tannins to close. A savoury wine that will be fantastic with food now, but will get better for many years.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2012 (18.6pts). Elegant and supple, with bright red fruits and a silky structure. Very high quality fruit here. The finish is very long, aided by souring acidity and excellent balance. Made in a style that preserves the fruit, relying on acids and fine tannins for longevity and depth, rather than overt oak. Lovely wine.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas – 2012 (18.6). Graphite and tar over blueberry and spice. The cedary/vanillin oak adds depth, giving way to savoury acidity and a brine-like tang. The tannins build on a close that is very long. Will be long lived, yet is approachable now.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.5). Pretty fruit on the nose. This is elegant and polished. In the mouth, there is succulent red fruits, earthy/mineral like texture, spice, vanillin oak and fine tannins. Closed and restrained initially, this really comes together with air, suggesting a long future (and possibly even higher points).

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2012 (18.5pts). A touch lighter red-brick colour. The fruit here is just a little more accessible. The palate is fine and silky, with savoury fruit and a strong vein of minerality running through to the close. Very long, this has great presence. Now – 20 years. (At under $40, this is excellent value).

Winery in Focus – Houghton – Part Two

Winery in Focus – Houghton

Part Two

Barry Weinman: 7^th May 2016

Following on from my review of Houghton Cabernets, here is a quick review of some of the other highlights in the range.

The Thomas Yule Shiraz was formally known as the Gladstones Shiraz.

Whilst Brookland Valley is a separate brand in the Accolade stable, wine-making is handled at Houghton, with Courtney Treacher leading the program.

Reviewed

Houghton – Pinot Grigio – Small Batch – 2015 (17.5pts – $22). Almost clear in colour. Vibrant, floral and pretty fruit, in the Alsatian (Gris) style and all the better for it. The fruit is soft and supple and the balance excellent. From Frankland River.

Houghton – Chardonnay – Crofters – 2013 (17.5pts – $18). Quite a refined wine, with peach and nectarine fruit over supple French oak. Silky mouth-feel and excellent length. Value for money.

Houghton – Shiraz – Crofters – 2014 (17.5pts – $19). Wow, there is an explosion of ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is forward and approachable, with the cherry/plum fruit the focus. Supple winemaking inputs add interest. Value Shiraz.

Houghton – Shiraz – Thomas Yule – 2012 (18+pts – $80) Dense, dark fruit on the nose. The fruit is almost thick on the palate, with hints of licorice and aniseed. The palate transition is near seamless, with the tannins at the close getting slightly grippy. Excellent length and a textural treat. Stylistically very different to the Cabernet, this represents brilliant mid-term drinking.

Houghton – Shiraz – Thomas Yule – 2011 (18.5pts – $80). Quite a contrast to the 2012, with more structure and less ripe fruit characters. Both the 11 and 12 are excellent examples of Shiraz, though this shows more cooler climate characters. Pepper and savoury cherry fruit a feature, with the cedar-like oak adding to the package. Will reward time in the cellar.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2013 (18 – 18.5pts – $70). Whilst there is obvious power to the fruit on the nose, the balance and perfume are noteworthy. Hints of expensive oak add complexity, reminiscent of Burgundy. The palate has rich fruit and superb mouth-feel, though the finish is quite tight and closed at present. May well score higher in the years to come.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2013 (18pts – $45). The depth of the fruit on the nose is a highlight. The perfumed berry fruit builds and carries through onto the palate. Textured and spicy, with excellent length, the fine tannins and oak add grip to close. An excellent wine.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2012 (18.5pts $70). The approachability defies expectations here. Blackcurrant, eucalypt, mint and just a hint of cassis. The palate is rich and round, with the pristine fruit slowly giving way to fine tannins and very supple oak. The length is a feature.

New Release – May 2016

Barry Weinman: 21^th May 2016

Everyone loves a bargain; a wine that punches above its weight. A wine that drinks like a more expensive example. The good news for the bargain hunters is that Angove has hit the jackpot with its Long Row Cabernet.

I am not recommending this because it is cheap. This is a wine that drinks very well regardless of its price. A wine that I am happy to recommend to anyone who is looking for an uncomplicated red wine for that glass of wine mid-week, or to share with friends round a BBQ. That it will be available for under $10 makes it one of the wine-bargain of the year. (Dan Murphy has it for under $8).

The panel was unanimous in its praise for this wine. You could have heard a pin drop when the wine was unveiled; such was our amazement at the value being offered. I will be putting some in my cellar!

The Drayton’s Verdelho also caused quite a stir. This is a wine that offering so much more than a cheap NZ Sauvignon Blanc, yet Cellarmasters were selling it for $8.25. They have just switched over to the 2015 vintage, but if it is anything like the 2014, it will be a brilliant buy,

The Fume Blanc from Singlefile caused plenty of discussion. True to style, the (quality) oak stamps its presence on the palate, but at this early stage, it comes at the expense of fruit expression. I am sure that a few years in bottle will see this come into its own, and the $30 price tag seems very reasonable.

The SSB and Pinot Gris on the other hand, will be drinking a treat over the next year or two, and made the review below.

Reviewed

Angove – Chardonnay – Long Row – 2015 (16.2pts – $10). Smells like a proper Chardonnay, with quite ripe stonefruit characters. The palate has gentle creamy notes, hints of honey, musk and even a touch of minerality. The finish is clean and neutral, with a textural component that will work well with food. This is not a great wine by any means, but it is a good value quaff and great value for those on a tight budget.Drayton’s – Verdelho – Bellevue – 2014 (17pts – $9). Melon and citrus notes evolve on the nose. The palate is fresh and lively, with crunchy pear characters and well-judged acidity. The palate transition works very well and the length is noteworthy. Will accompany grilled squid or paella perfectly. (Cellarmasters has the 2015 for $8.25).

Singlefile – Pinot Gris – Pemberton – 2015 (17.5pts – $30). Very pale colour. Lovely floral fruit on the nose with pear and apple. The palate has excellent mouth-feel and texture, the fruit has hints of citrus and white peach. The slight phenolic grip, combined with fine acidity gives the finish drive and length.

Singlefile – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Denmark – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Enticing nose, with lantana, gooseberry, cumquat and musk. The palate is zesty, yet quite restrained, with the tropical fruit notes continuing on a very long palate. A smart wine indeed.Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2014. (17 – 17.5pts – $10). Whilst the origin of the fruit is not listed, this displays quite cool red fruits, with touches of herbs and mint. That said, there is clear varietal expression. The palate is mid weight and balanced, with fresh berry fruits combined with a herbal edge. A touch of cedar adds complexity, whilst the mouth-feel is supple and the length good. Surprising quality. A brilliant value dry red.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2013 (18.5+pts – $130). Whilst only medium bodied, there is amazing concentration to the fruit, with blackcurrant, cassis, menthol and a touch of fresh herbs. The palate is firm and structured, reminding me of fine Bordeaux. The length and persistence are exceptional. The cedary/vanillin oak and fine tannins shut down the fruit somewhat, put the potential is obvious. Needs ten years to hit its straps, and twenty would see this in its prime. Remarkable wine, but be patient.