Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Giant Steps no longer an Innocent Bystander

Giant Steps no longer an Innocent Bystander!

Barry Weinman: 14^th September 2015

The first vintage at Giant Steps was made by Steve Flamsteed back in 2003, and he has been making the wines ever since. The Innocent Bystander label was established as a second brand to give the winery critical volume, given the limited production of the top wines.

Innocent Bystanders has been a runaway success, with production rapidly increasing to the point where the winery is now at full capacity, leading to production being expanded off-site. The success is such, that there is still demand to justify increasing production further. Moscato production alone is estimated to be at 60,000 cases.

Following an opportune approach from Brown Brothers, the decision was made to sell off Innocent Bystanders, to allow the opportunity to rationalise and focus on Giant Steps. The aim is to organically grow Giant Steps with the introduction of the Yarra Valley range sitting below the single vineyard wines.

A second label is being introduced (Wild Run) to provide an everyday quaff for cellar door customers.

Whilst the Single Vineyard wines have received critical acclaim for a number of years, I was interested to see how the Yarra Valley range stacked up. So it was great to sit down with Steve over a quick lunch and look through some of the wines.

For me, the Pinot and Chardonnay were the standouts. Excellent wines that are available at a fair price.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so points are only an indication.

Reviewed

Giants Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2015 (18.5pts – $45). Fine and creamy, with lemon, minerals, stone fruit, vanilla and spice. The palate is very long, rich and textured, yet remains remarkably fine and seamless. Made from the P58 clone of Chardonnay, off 26 y/o vines, the vineyard leased since 2005.

Giants Steps – Chardonnay – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18pts – $35). A touch broader and more open than the Tarraford. The palate is more linear, with taut, lemony acid adding drive and length. The texture builds in the glass. Does not have quite the same depth as the Tarraford initially, but this should build nicely in the bottle.

Giants Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2015 (18.5+pts – $50). Pretty floral fruit, with cherry and raspberry characters. The palate is superb, with silky texture, supple mouth-feel and great length and depth. Candied notes add interest, as does a touch of toast from the oak. (60% whole bunch fermented).

Giants Steps – Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $35). This wine was quite closed on the nose initially, whilst the palate showed earthy notes, with cherry fruit and texturing oak. The mouth-feel however was a highlight. With air, this transformed. The pretty berry fruit really opened up on both the nose and palate, and was quite delicious. This will be great with an hour or two in a decanter, or a couple of years in the cellar.

Giants Steps – Shiraz – Syrah – 2015 (17.7pts – $35). This has really pretty fruit that is perfumed, floral and spicy. Lovely mouth-feel, with vibrant fruit giving way to savoury, earthy flavours. An excellent food wine, as the acidity drives the finish.

Giants Steps – Merlot – 2015 (17.5pts $35). From the Sexton vineyard. This is a ripping drink. The fresh, pretty berry fruit is complemented by elegant tannins and fine acidity. Why wait?

September New Release – Part One

Barry Weinman: 3^rd September 2016

A couple of wines really impressed in our recent tastings.

The 2015 Petaluma Chardonnay is a delicious wine that is a little more generous than some of the wines presently coming out of Victoria and is all the better for it.

In the Cabernets, Fraser Gallop remains in top form whilst the wines from Woodlands and Cumulus offer value. The Cumulus Cabernet in particular is a stand-out, given that it is currently available for $17.50 online from the cellar door.

Chardonnay

Petaluma – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.3pts – $53). Quite rich and generous, with creamy oak characters, courtesy of barrel fermentation . There is fresh pineapple fruit combined with lemon and lime flavours. Great length, supple mouth-feel and balancing acidity. Delicious.

Lenton Brae – Chardonnay – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18pts – $60). Tropical fruits and lemon brulee. Supple and balanced, though the fruit is somewhat subdued at present. It is the mouth-feel and texture that really sets this apart. Long and fine, with an excellent palate transition. The oak adds depth.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2013 (18.5pts – $50). Cooler climate Cabernet of some note. Supple blackcurrant fruit and menthol notes paired to fine tannins and linear acidity. Slightly chewy, though with near seamless palate transition, this needs 10 years to really hit its straps.

Lenton Brae – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2012 (18.3pts – $70). A fine wine here, with cherry and spice notes. Blackcurrant, plum, coffee/earthy complexity and cedary oak lead to a texture that is a little chewy. Long, this evolves in the glass. Needs 10 years to open up.

Cumulus – Cabernet Sauvignon – Climbing – 2014 (18pts $24). Pretty red fruits on both the nose and palate. Vibrant, lively and elegant, with succulent, ripe fruit and savoury hints. Delicious and a bargain. ($17.50 from the winery).

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – 2014 (18pts $26). Complex nose with cedar, blackcurrant, cassis and spice. The palate is quite dusty and earthy, with the quality fruit sitting within a framework of supple tannins and oak. Approachable, but sure to improve with a few years in the cellar. Great value.

Cumulus – Merlot – Climbing – 2014 (17.7pts – $24). Lighter colour, and a lighter style. A pretty, medium bodied wine of some charm. The red fruits are the defining character, with strawberry and plum notes. The finish is soft and supple, making for an excellent drink now. ($17.50 from the winery).

Lenton Brae – Cabernet Sauvignon – Lady Douglas – 2015 (17.5pts). Vibrant berry fruit leaps from the glass. The palate is forward and approachable, with a seam of graphite-like tannins running the length of the palate adding texture and depth. A touch astringent, so will marry well with food anytime over the next 5 years.

Lenton Brae – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2015 (17.5pts – $26). A fairly straightforward wine with cherry and dark berry fruit over mint and eucalypt typical of Margaret River. The palate is long and flavourful with fine dusty tannins building on the finish. Really approachable now, but short term cellaring is also an option.

Howard Park – Scotsdale & Leston – 2014

Howard Park – New Release Reds

Barry Weinman: 28^th August 2016

Howard Park is in the enviable position of having access to excellent vineyards across both Margaret River and the Great Southern. I have written previously about the fact that, despite the fame of Margaret River, the wineries’ top wine (Abercrombie) is primarily made from fruit sourced from the Abercrombie vineyard in Mt Barker (situated in the Great Southern).

It is the next level down in the range where the two regions are showcased. The Leston wines are from Margaret River and the Scotsdale from the Great Southern (Mt Barker). Available as both a Shiraz and a Cabernet, the wines are uniformly of very high quality.

Over the years, I have rated the Scotsdale slightly ahead of the Leston and, with the soon to be released 2014 vintage, this perception has been reinforced. Made by the talented Janice McDonald both ranges have produced lovely wines, but both the Cabernet and the Shiraz from Scottsdale have a slight edge.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scotsdale – 2014 (18.5pts – RRP $46). Serious fruit and winemaking here. Blackcurrant, spice and a touch of cedar to open. The palate is structured and firm with fine tannins. Excellent line and length, though this needs a few years for the fruit to open. Great potential. With air, this wine blossomed showing delicious fruit and wonderful balance. My pick of the range.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2014 (18 – 18.5pts – $46). Very pretty fruit that is varietally correct. Lifted and perfumed, the elegant red fruit gives way to savoury/spicy notes, and are framed by silky tannins and oak. The palate is fine and supple, with superb balance and excellent length. Will cellar well for at least 10 years.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Scotsdale – 2014 (18pts – $46). Structured, firm and closed. The fruit is medium bodied, with hints of red plum and spice. The palate is firm, structured and very long, yet everything is in balance. Will reward time in the cellar.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2014 (18pts – $46). Redcurrant, cherry and spicy aniseed aromas. The palate is balanced and silky, with more liquorice and spice notes. The oak and tannins sit well with the medium weight fruit. A very smart wine that needs a few years to open up.

New Release – Shingleback and Friends

New Release

Barry Weinman: 21^st August 2016

Angove is one of the largest landholders in McLaren Vale, with over 400 acres of vineyards. Surprisingly, over 30% of the vineyards are certified organic, with the rest of the vineyards in the process of being converted.

This must make Angove one of the largest (if not the largest) producers of organic grapes in Australia. The outcome is a range of very smart wines under the “Organic” label. Here, it was the turn of the Shiraz/Cabernet to shine. An excellent effort that represents great drinking given that it can be picked up for $14 or less!

Shingleback have released yet another great value Shiraz under the Red Knot label.

Whilst a little more expensive, the wines from Wolf Blass (Grey Label), Claymore (GSM) and Shingleback (The Gate) really stood out. These are wines that can be enjoyed now, yet will comfortably cellar for a decade. They also represent value in their own way.

At the top end, watch out for the D-Block Reserve wines from Shingleback. These are statement wines that exude class and refinement. Great intensity and power, yet with a degree of elegance that is disarming. Bravo!

Reviewed – White

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2015 (17.7pts). Fresh aromatics with tropical and herbal notes. Grassy, herbaceous fruit on the palate with plenty of zesty acidity, decent texture and great mouth-feel. Long and refreshing, this will be great served chilled in the warmer months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Miamup – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). More tropical fruit here along with crunchy green pear. Light and fresh, with gentle aromatics and a soft, supple mouth-feel aided perhaps by a touch of barrel fermentation. Lemony fruit flavours linger. Very easy to drink.

Reviewed – Cabernet

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.6pts – $55). Impenetrable colour. Very concentrated fruit with blackcurrant and a touch of cassis. The palate is remarkably restrained, with the fruit the primary focus. That said, the quality oak and polished tannins build on what is a very long finish. Much like Penfolds 707, this is more refined, supple and elegant than might be expected, especially given the region’s reputation for Shiraz.

Claymore Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – O – Bittersweet Symphony – 2014 (17.5pts – $25). Menthol and spice, along with dense blackcurrant fruit. Despite being closed, this shows excellent balance, with the mouth-feel aided by very fine tannins and oak. Long, this needs 10 years, but drinking well now. A fine wine.

Reviewed – Shiraz and Blends

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.7pts – $55). Whilst the fruit on the nose has lovely sweet berry characters, there is a savoury component that really adds interest. Tremendous depth and intensity of fruit, prodigious length of flavours, latent power and gravelly tannins. Liquorice, spice, souring acidity add interest, while the oak sits comfortably with the fruit. Will live for decades (cork permitting) but will also do justice to the finest steak you can get your hands on.

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Grey Label – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). A rich and textured wine, with spicy, almost inky fruit. The fruit here is powerful and taut, with fine acidity and tannins shutting down the palate somewhat. The oak adds depth, but is not intrusive. A fine wine that will easily live for 20 years. Great value at under $35/bottle.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2012 (18.5pts – $35). Vanilla, coffee, cinnamon, mint and just a touch of menthol, over sweet, ripe fruit. The palate is bright, with the fruit carrying the length of the palate. The acidity builds as do the fine, chalky tannins. A lovely wine, though 5 – 10 years is required for it to reach its best. 9 Gold Medals.

Saltram – Shiraz – The Journal – 2010 (18.5+pts – $150). From 100 year old vines, this is fragrant, perfumed and pretty, with red berries and cherry fruit. Mint, along with a delicious streak of liquorice on the palate adds depth. A complex, ripe and skilfully crafted wine with no rough edges. Will live for decades if you are patient.

Claymore Wines – GSM – You’ll Never Walk Alone – 2015 (18.3pts – $20). Quality fruit. Fennel seed, cinnamon, vanilla seed and spice, leading to a palate that is supple, fine and elegant. The mouth-feel and balance are highlights. Near seamless, with great length. A supple, great value wine that can be enjoyed over the next decade.

Patritti – Shiraz – Lot 3 – Single Vineyard – 2013 (18.2pts – $30). Intense and powerful, this has ripe fruit with chocolate and coffee aromas, typical of McLaren Vale. The palate is chewy and textured, the tannins dominating the fruit somewhat, leading to a drying finish. A BIG wine that needs years or a decent steak.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2014 (18pts). Plum, mulberry, cherry, silky spice. A super wine with great length. The flavours build, and I like the balance here; this is a wine with no rough edges, making for a great drink. Should also age well.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2015 (17.9pts – $16). Pretty fruit on both the nose and palate with a hint of white pepper. Medium bodied, vibrant, succulent and juicy. A ripper of a wine that will be perfect with a bowl of pasta and is ready to go right now. A bargain!

Aravina Estate – Shiraz/Tempranillo – The A Collection – 2014 (17.8pts – $23). An unusual blend for Margaret River, this has concentrated, mid weight fruit. Opens with red berries, and plum notes, over cedar, spice and talc like tannins that coat the tongue and suppress the fruit somewhat. Good oak/acid balance. A very good wine that will happily take 5 years in the cellar.Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2015 (17.6pts – $15). Vibrant, lively, fresh red berries with cherry, licorice and subtle spice. No obvious oak influences, yet the tannins frame the fruit nicely. An excellent drinking everyday red that will be just as happy on its own as with a lamb roast. Another great value wine under this label.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.5pts – $25). Lighter style, focusing on savoury rather than overt sweet fruit. That said, the fruit quality is very good, as are the length and mouth-feel. A youthful, high quality wine that will provide excellent drinking over the next 5 years.

Plantaganet – Shiraz – 3 Lions – 2014 (17pts – $25). Really plummy fruit on the nose. The palate is bright and fresh, with little in the way of oak. Very fine tannins add depth, but allow the fruit to shine. This is a riper, less complicated st

August New Release – Reds

New Release

Barry Weinman: 14^th August 2016

Every now and then, a wine comes along that is absolutely irresistible straight out of the bottle. On this occasion, it was the Angove Family Crest GSM that blew the panel away. Absolutely delicious and a bargain at $22.

The Patritti GSM showed the same basic characters, but presented them in a package that was a little more structured. Again, brilliant value.

To round out the value stakes, the Singlefile and Leeuwin Estate Cabernets at around $25 represent excellent buying. Wines that can be consumed now, or cellared for a couple of years.

Reviewed

Angove – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Family Crest – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $22). The fragrant, pretty floral Grenache fruit expresses with plum, cherry and cinnamon spice. The palate is vibrant and fresh, the delicious fruit shimmering against a backdrop of texturing oak. The tannins are fine, adding to the lovely mouth-feel/texture. Good length and depth on the finish too. Supple and very moreish, this is a wine that needs no accompaniment. Everybody needs to try this wine!

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Frankland River – 2014 (18pts – $25). Excellent value, medium-bodied red. Cool climate fruit characters on both the nose and palate, with menthol, spice and fine tannins. This is elegant and balanced, with near seamless plate transition. The length of flavours is noteworthy. Supple and approachable now, yet will happily cellar for a few years.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2014 (18pts). Lighter, cooler region style, with menthol, herbal notes and red berry fruit. The palate is fine and long, with real depth. Another wine with near seamless palate transition. Acid rather than tannins drive the finish. Lingers.

Patritti – GSM – Gloria – 2013 (18pts – $18 on sale from the winery). Lovely fruit with real depth. Fragrant and floral, with spice and liquorice notes. The palate has fresh fruit, complemented by fine tannins and a touch of vanillin oak. Excellent length to close. A little more structured than the Angove, this is an impressive wine. A brilliant value wine that would be great with roast beef, or with 5 -10 years in the cellar.

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2013 (18pts – $43). Really quite fine, with supple, elegant fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, restrained and taut, yet the fruit lingers. The tannins and oak add depth, but in no way dominate. Opens to show mulberry and spice. Excellent wine.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2012 (17.7pts). I like the balance here. Relatively forward berry fruit is nicely matched to savoury, cedary oak and fine tannins. Not overly dense or complicated, thus allowing the fruit to shine. Decent length to close. Great short-term drinking.

Penfolds Tawny

Australian Fortfied Wines Part 4

Penfolds Tawny (Port).

Barry Weinman: 7^th August 2016

The red wines of Penfolds need no introduction. Many people will be less familiar with their fortified wines, which is a pity.

From Club Tawny through to Grandfather, the wines represent fantastic value.

Club Reserve can be found for $15 and provides genuine pleasure. The Father Tawny balances complexity with drinkability brilliantly. The Grandfather is a luxury that, coming in a 750ml bottle, is more accessible than many of life’s finer things.

Reviewed

Penfolds – Tawny – Club (17pts – $15). Fresh and light, with obvious sweetness and moderate viscosity. Slightly chewy texture and decent length, carried by fresh acidity. Obviously younger material, but this is a very enjoyable wine and a bargain. 750mls

Penfolds – Tawny – Club Reserve – Classic (17.5pts – $20). Darker colour than the standard, tending to orange. More complexity and depth too. Whilst still sweet, there is greater balance and structure. Excellent length to close. Great value and worth the extra five dollars! 750mls

Penfolds – Tawny – Father – Grand Tawny (18.5pts – $38). Colour not dissimilar to the Club Reserve, but there is more Rancio characters on the nose. The palate is where this really expresses, with density and power to the fruit. The sweetness builds, but is offset by lovely acidity. The balance between old and new material is noteworthy. A lovely wine, with great length, this is actually easier to drink than the Grandfather. Great value in 750ml bottle.

Penfolds – Tawny – Grandfather – Rare (18.8pts – $85). Darker colour. The intensity on the nose is a stand-out, with obvious Rancio characters to the fore. The palate is intense and powerful, the flavours washing over the tongue in waves. Very old base material has been brilliantly handled. Immense length with drying Madera characters on the finish. One sip is almost enough! 750mls.

Australian Fortified Part 3: Other Styles

Barry Weinman: 7^th August 2016

The Talijancich Pedro is nothing short of spectacular. Expensive, but beautifully packaged. One sip is almost enough.

In a very different style is the De Bortoli Black Nobel. An amazing wine made from botrytis Semillon.

Talijancich – Pedro – Rare – Julian James – Blend No 3 (19pts – $70). Almost opaque: burnt orange, tending to olive. Very intense, powerful nose, the complex aged material balanced by rancio and spirit notes. The palate is intense, dense, long and unctuous, but not cloying. An amazing wine that has an ethereal nature, the spirit and fruit in perfect harmony. Stunning. 350 mls

De Bortoli – Black Nobel – 10 y/o (18.6pts – $38). Another opaque, very dark wine – staining the glass amber. Here the Rancio and resin notes are more apparent, with raisins and fruit-cake aromas that are really quite fragrant. Sweetness is obvious, with musk and spice notes. The acid adds life and keeps the whole package together. Impressive and impactful, a unique use of Botrytis Semillon. 500mls.

Lamont’s – R.S.W. Liqueur (18.5pts ). A blend of Pedro and Muscat (Navara). Khaki meniscus. Lovely old material, with rancio and spirit balanced by intense fruit. The palate is thick and lush, yet retains balance via the acidity. The spirit notes add vibrancy. Middle of the road style and delicious. A blend that started in the early 1980’s from a single barrel. Fortunately, there are now several barrels released each year. 375mls

Lamont’s – Pedro (18pts). Whilst there is no mention on the front label, this is from the 2005 vintage. A lighter amber colour. More Rancio, more sweetness, more obvious. Viscous and thick, there is so much of everything, yet avoids being cloying. Perfect poured over ice-cream! 375mls

Tawny (Port) and Other Fortified Wines

Australian Fortified Wines Part Two: Tawny (Port) and Other Fortified Wines

3^rd August 2016

In Portugal, there are dozens of grape varieties permitted in the production of Port.

Tinta Barroca,
Tinta Cão,
Tinta Roriz
Touriga Francesa,
Touriga Nacional)

A full list can be found here.

The Australian equivalent does not have the same restrictions, meaning that grapes like Shiraz and Grenache can make up the backbone of a blend.

As a result of labelling laws, the use of the term Port is no longer allowed for wines made outside of Portugal. This has not caused a problem for the non-vintage wines, as they have been able to retain the word Tawny. For Vintage Port, this has been more problematic. Many wineries have reverted to using Vintage Fortified, and may also include the grape variety.

Like the Muscats and Tokays reviewed previously, these wines will last for days or even weeks once opened, allowing a glass to be had whenever you like!

Reviewed.

Angove – Tawny – Grand – 10 years (17.5pts – $25). Light tawny colour. Fresh, with fruit cake and Christmas pudding notes. Excellent length and follow-through add to the enjoyment. Not overly dense, but a good drink with a touch of nuttiness on the close. 500mls

Morris – Tawny – Classic (17.6pts – $21.25). Red-brown colour. Fresh red fruits, with raisins, cinnamon, spice and orange peel. Good length and a harmonious finish balanced by the acidity. Easy drinking and satisfying. 500mls.

De Bortoli – Tawny – Fine Tawny – 8 years old (17.5pts – $25). Starts with a spirituous lift, over rum & raisin, fruit cake and spice, on a nose that is quite pretty. The palate is fresh and lively, with an uncomplicated structure. Another good drink, requiring no accompaniment. 750mls

De Bortoli – Tawny – Old Boys – 21 Year Old – Barrel Aged (18.6ts – $45). Darker hue – tawny tending to amber. Whilst this is intense and powerful, there is a degree of subtlety and excellent balance. The acidity and judicious use of younger material has added life to what is a complex, aged wine. Relatively light, this would be great with sharp cheddar at the start or end of an evening. The label indicates the bottling date, which is a great service to consumers. (Bottled 2015). 500mls.Patritti – Tawny – Rare – Old Fortified Wine (18 – 18.5pts – $30). Initially quite spirituous, with a resin-like streak. Clearly aged material, this reminds me of a Bual Madera, with its drying palate, moderate sweetness, obvious Rancio characters and sea spray freshness. This is an unusual style, but is an excellent wine. You could even serve this slightly chilled as an aperitif. Great value in a 750ml bottle.

Talijancich – Tawny – Rare – Blend No 2 (18.7pts – $80). Aged 30 years. Massive, intense wine with Rancio and spirit notes. The palate is powerful, dense and rich, showing more viscosity than most here. Clearly very old material, with higher levels of sweetness and balancing acidity. Rich, textured and seamless, a traditional Swan Valley Tawny style. An impressive wine that would delight with a chocolate pudding. 350mls.

Angove – Tawny – Rare – 15 years (18.2pts – $45). Again, an old base is used here. Herbal notes with a spirituous lift and zesty notes. Excellent poise and balance in an intense, impressive wine. Only moderately sweet and very long! Serve with (and on) quality vanilla ice-cream. Whilst an average age of 15 years would not classify as rare for other producers, this is still an excellent wine. 750mls

Muscat and Tokay

Australian Fortified Wines

Part One – Muscat and Tokay

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2016

Whilst Australia has a very long association with fortified wine production, popularity has waned over a number of decades, as table wine consumption increased. This has been a mixed blessing for consumers.

The lack of demand has seen stocks of aged materials increase. This has allowed the inclusion of older materials in blend. This may have contributed to the introduction of a qualification system to give an indication of the relative age of the wine.

The down side is that it has impinged on the viability of many wineries. Just last week, the owners of Morris wines announced that they will be closing the winery (though keeping the brand).

In regards to the qualification system, there are four levels that have been established to give consumers an indication of the age and quality of the wines.

Grape/region
Classic
Grand
Rare

Confusingly, there is significant variation from one winery to the next as to how old these should be. The Angove “Rare” for example, would only qualify for the classic designation if it was produced by All Saints. Indeed, All Saints has the strictest criteria of all wineries reviewed.

In the tastings, this translated into a situation where the base level wines from All Saints scored higher than several of the Classics and even a Grand from other producers.

Another cause for confusion is the introduction of labelling laws that prohibit the use of certain names. For example, Sherry, Port and Tokay are all required to be phased out.

Over the coming weeks, I will review a number of different styles/grapes. The focus will be on the sweeter styles, suitable for drinking on a cold night in front of a warm fire!

Muscat and Tokay

When sourcing wines for this tasting, I was surprised that there were not more examples of Tokay (Topaque). 15 years ago, I am sure that there was a fairly even split between Tokay and Muscat availability, but a trip to Dan Murphy provided only a few examples. In contrast, there was a large selection of Muscats, of varying qualities.

My recollection was that the Tokays tended to be slightly less sweet, with great balance. Perhaps the richness of the Muscats has won over consumers’ palates…

In this group, the designated quality level did not always correlate with the preference of the panel. The base wines from All Saints were brilliant, proving that the age of the wine alone does not always correlate with quality. In these wines, the balance and harmony more than made up for the relatively youthful base wines. They are wines to drink and enjoy.

As the wines moved up the quality ladder, and the base material increased in age, there was an obvious increase in the intensity of the wines on the palate. In the best examples, this was matched by brilliantly judged acidity, ensuring that the wines were full of life and avoided becoming cloying. Wines for sipping and savouring, as well as drinking.

The age and quality of many of these wines, combined with the fact that a small taste is often enough, makes them excellent value in my opinion. The style also keeps well once open, allowing the wine to be consumed over a number of days/weeks. But only if you are disciplined enough…

Tokay

All Saints – Muscadelle – Rutherglen (18.2pts – $22). Amber, tending to green on the rim. Not overly complex nose, with raisin/fruit cake aromas. The palate is viscous and mouth coating, with honey-like fruit tending to caramel sauce. Youthful, yet delicious and quite fine and elegant, with a long, supple finish complemented by cleansing acidity. Great combination of old and new material and a joy to drink. 375mls

Buller – Tokay – Fine Old Tokay – NV (17.9pts – $25). Colour is amber, tending to burnt orange. Toffee, caramel and some aged aromas over fresh raisins. Viscous, thick, dense, long and intense, yet shows lovely acid balance with enough freshness to add life. The addition of some old material adds depth. A tremendous bargain! 750mls

Seppeltsfield – Tokay – Grand – DP57 (18+ pts – $38). Olive-green rimmed. Very intense, with a significant amount of aged material. The flavours evolve on the palate for some time in turn showing dusty notes, raisin, caramel and orange rind. Rancio notes and balancing acidity makes this rich and powerful wine a joy to drink. 500mls.

Morris – Tokay – Classic – Liqueur (17.7pts – $21.25). Lighter colour, yet still in the amber spectrum. Heady aromas of malted barley, with some aged, Rancio notes adding depth. There is also a fresh spirit lift. The palate is viscous and sweet with an almost orange liqueur flavour. Perfect with a rich fruit cake or just poured over ice-cream. Delicious! 500mls.

Muscat

All Saints – Muscat – Rutherglen (18.3pts – $22). Burnt orange, tending to amber colour. This is sweet and perfumed, with musk, caramel and hints of honey. Whilst sweet, this is not cloying as the blend of aged and young material and excellent acidity makes this absolutely delicious. A lighter style and a great drink! 375mls.

Morris – Muscat – Classic – Liqueur (17.8 – $21.25). The colour is burnt orange all the way to the meniscus. A fragrant Muscat nose with hints of orange, spice, treacle and toffee aromas over fresh spirit notes. The palate is sweet and relatively straightforward, with fresh material adding life. Good acid balance. Uncomplicated and moreish. 500mls

Lamont’s – Muscat (18pts – $30). Olive/khaki colour. Opens with rum & raisin ice-cream and herbal notes. There is decent complexity too. The palate is thick and dense; one of the more viscous examples. The balance is key here, with fresh acidity adding life to the sweet fruit. Excellent length and a drying finish reminiscent of oloroso sherry. Very old material blended in. Great on its own, or with a crème caramel. 375mls.

Morris – Muscat – Grand – Liqueur Muscat – Cellar Reserve (18.7pts – $50). The colour here is several shades darker – almost opaque dark brown. Incredibly intense and complex nose that is oh-so-enticing. Rancio characters to the fore on both the nose and palate suggesting the inclusion of very old material. The palate is thick and almost chewy, the flavours coming in waves along the palate. Think burnt toffee/caramel, with coffee and dark chocolate notes. The finish is remarkable for the freshness and life. Unctuous liqueur style. 500mls.

De Bortoli – Muscat – Show Liqueur – NV (18.5pts – $25). Lighter colour – tawny and crystal clear. Fresh orange and cinnamon notes on both the nose and palate, with caramel, toffee and fruit cake. Excellent length and mouth-feel. Not as thick or viscous as some, with more fresh material. Possesses a lovely balance aided by a drying finish. Intense and very long. A brilliant value wine for drinking as well as sipping. 500mls.

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 21^st July 2016

A decade ago, the wines from Woodside Valley Estate started to make a real impact. I reviewed the 2004 Baudin (Cabernet Sauvignon) very well and have several bottles in my cellar. They also supplied fruit to other wineries in the region.

The illness and untimely death of Ron Wood (one of the founders) led to the demise of the label. Whilst the venture continues to supply fruit, the wine side has been revived under the Brash label, with wines made by Bruce Duke. The 2013 and 2014 are reviewed here and are worth seeking out. (The 2014 is yet to be released).

The Leston by Howard Park is a brilliant wine. So approachable, yet age worthy. The panel really enjoyed the Flametree Embers; a wine that represents excellent value drinking. Penfolds Max’s also showed very well, albeit in a richer style.

Finally, I know nothing about Polguern Estate, but their Cabernet came up well in this tasting and represents decent value.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2013 (18.5+pts – $45). A superb wine that is textbook Margaret River Cabernet. Subtle, balanced and very long, Janice McDonald has worked magic with the high quality fruit. This is so approachable that many will have trouble keeping this in the cellar. That would be a shame, as this will only get better over the next decade or more.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Max’s – 2014 (18.5pts – $34). This is a big, richly textured wine, with chewy, intense fruit. The balance is noteworthy, as is the depth to the palate. Mint, herbal notes and cherry/red berry fruit all come to mind, with dark chocolate notes. A different style to the wines from Western Australia, but no less age-worthy.

Brash – Cabernet Sauvignon – Single Vineyard – 2014 (18.5pts – $35). There is something a little special about this wine, with real depth and power to the fruit. The palate is initially defined by the acidity, but the fruit and tannins build for what seems like minutes in the mouth. Very dense, yet with balance and poise.

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014 (18pts – $37). Real depth to the fruit, yet the balance and poise are remarkable. Redolent of red fruits, the tannins and oak sit well behind the supple fruit, though the tannins build on the finish. Great drinking any time over the next 10 years.

Brash – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. (17.9pts – $38). Wow, the vibrant, perfumed fruit here is very attractive. The palate is silky, ripe, balanced, fresh and vibrant. The tannins and oak sit comfortably behind the fruit. Supple and savoury. Great anytime in the next 10 years.

Rosa Brook – Cabernet Sauvignon – Single Vineyard – Estate – 2013 (18). Darker fruit characters on the nose. The palate is firm and structured, with taut acidity and fine tannins holding the fruit in check. Undeniable quality, though this needs 10 years to really start to open up. A serious wine.

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – Embers – 2014 (17.8pts). Fragrant, perfumed and pretty. The palate is fresh and approachable, yet there is depth to the fruit with hints of coffee and chocolate. A lovely wine that will also improve in the bottle for a few years. Delicious and a great value.

Polguern Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Pharaoh’s Tribute – 2013 (17.5pts – $21). Fragrant mulberry-like fruit, with vanillin oak hints and souring cherry acidity that adds freshness. Long, supple and balanced. Excellent medium-bodied style with finesse. From Roleystone.