Barry Weinman: 18^th December 2018

With Christmas fast approaching, what better time to review a cross-section of some of the prestige Champagnes on the market.

This was an extraordinary tasting with every wine being worthy of a place on your Christmas table. The wines ranged in price from under $100 to over $500, and there was a variety of styles at each price point. The picks for me was as follows

Under $150

• Veuve Clicquot – 2008 ( a bargain at around$100)
• Gosset-Brabant – Grand Cru – Zero Dosage (Try Lamont’s in Cottesloe)

$100 – $300

• Egly-Ouriet – Grand Brut – Rose
• Veuve Clicquot – La Grande Dame – 2006
• Krug – Grand Cuvee

$300+

• Pol Roger – Sir Winston Churchill – 2006
• Dom Perignon – Rosé – 2005
• Krug – Vintage – 2004

Reviewed

Gosset-Brabant – Grand Cru – Zero Dosage – NV. Whilst I am not always a big fan of zero dosage wines, this works very well. Complex minerality and subtle toast notes build on a long palate. As it warmed up, the rich fruit built impressively. (Try Lamont’s Cottesloe).

Ruinart – Blanc de Blancs – Brut – NV. Rich and powerful fruit on the nose with brioche and bread dough notes. The palate is warm and generous, but the compromise is less energy than the Gosset-Brabant.The fruit for this wine comes from a variety of regions, with the intention of building depth and richness.

Veuve Clicquot – Vintage- 2008. Elegant, balanced and near seamless, with a lovely purity to the fruit.Closed and quite linear, this will reward 3 – 5 years in the cellar. Given that this is still available for around $100, this is the best value wine in the tasting.

Moet et Chandon –Grand Vintage – 2009. A generous wine with immediate appeal. Yeasty and a touch chewy, with excellent acidity and a touch of phenolic richness. Very good drinking (whilst waiting for the Veuve to mature), this is actually quite vinous.

Pol Roger – Vintage- 2009. So fine and elegant, this is especially impressive given the vintage. A touch richer than the 2008, yet with excellent presence and intensity. Always excellent value! Pol Roger has some of the deepest cellars in Champagne. This results in a very slow ferment that helps with refinement.

Dom Ruinart –Brut – 2006. Whilst taut and acid driven, this has presence and immediate appeal, with fine minerality adding to the long finish. 1/3 of this wine is Chardonnay from the Montage de Reims.

Pommery – Cuvée Louise – 2004. Very impressive prestige Champagne. The ripe fruit has richness and presence, yet this is fine, elegant and sinewy, getting a little chewy on the close. Made from 2/3 Chardonnay, with 1/3 Pinot Noir from Aye. Ready to drink now.

Egly-Ouriet – Grand Brut – Rosé – NV. What an impressive wine. Very rich and intense, with perfumed fruit. The palate is intense,youthful and almost chewy. A very fresher wine that would accompany richer foods nicely as well as take some time in the cellar. The base wine is from2011, and the producer has sought ripeness in the vineyard which contributes to the richness (no chaptalisation was required at vinification).

Bollinger – LaGrande Année–2006. Wonderful fruit that is rich, ripe, intense and powerful. The strawberry and red fruit characters are typical of the style. Great wine.

Veuve Clicquot – La Grande Dame – 2006. Taut, refined,elegant and intense. This has a wonderful presence in the mouth, with supple texture and a seamless palate transition. The minerality adds depth. Super stuff.

Pol Roger – Sir Winston Churchill – 2006. Incredible vinosity and finesse. This is all about latent power. Very fine, this has great presence in the mouth and the thrilling acidity is a highlight. One of the best wines of the tasting. A super star!

Dom Perignon –2009. Perfumed and laden with minerality, this is long and persistent, with a chewy texture. There is a lovely presence in the mouth, and a drying, linear finish.55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir, the base wine underwent 100% malolactic fermentation. Released before the 2008, as the 2009 is more approachable. (I am saving space for the 2008).

Dom Perignon –Rosé–2005. A remarkable wine that is serious and powerful, yet approachable and exciting all at the same time. The red berry fruit, subtle pepper and strawberry notes lead to a structural, textured finish. 55% Pinot Noir, 26% of which was made as a red wine, the production of this wine is very small(compared to the millions of bottles of the standard Dom).

Dom Perignon – P2 – 1998. This is the same cuvée as the original release, with the wine aged on lees until ready for release. Given that the original 1998 was a fine wine, it came as no surprise that this was a star of the tasting.  While it has developed some toasty, buttery notes and a hint of caramel, the palate remains fresh and alive. Unbelievably good.

N.B. My experience with Dom is that the best value comes from buying the great vintages like 2008 and 2012 and cellaring them for 3 – 5years. The result seems to be every bit as good as the P2 releases, but at half the cost.

Krug – Grand Cuvée– NV. What a contrast to the Dom. Powerful, intense, chewy and long. Above all, this is vinous, and would easily carry many styles of food. Despite the inclusion of a significant amount of aged material, this is actually quite tight and austere and would benefit from a year in the cellar.

The current release has been aged on lees for 8 years, with the base wine coming from the 2010 vintage (42%). The remainder is made up of material spanning vintages back to 1996. Not surprisingly, there is no recipe here and every release is made on the tasting bench.

Krug – Rosé –NV. Pretty red fruits on show, yet this is still intense, powerful and closed.If anything, this is more youthful than the standard NV, and even more worthy of time in the cellar. The finish is supple, long and textured, with lemony acidity melding with a fine minerality to add impact. Made from over 40 parcels,primarily between 2002 and 2007, including 10% red wine and 32% reserve wines.

Krug – Vintage –2004. An unbelievably good wine that has great power and presence, yet also has grace, elegance and poise. Brilliant with food, this is simply one of the great wines, and as worthy of aging as fine Burgundy or Bordeaux. Sublime! The winemakers had over 400 parcels of fruit to choose from and this vintage includes a higher proportion of reserve wines and also includes 24% Pinot Meunier.

Sparkling Wine for Christmas 2018

Barry Weinman: 9^th December 2018

Having recently written up the sparkling wines of Sittella, I thought I would put them up against a cross-section of local and imported wines to see how they stacked up. The results were nothing short of outstanding, with the wines from Sittella being at or near the top of each bracket tried. You can read the full review here.

Given their recent reviews, I have not written them up here, except for the sparkling Shiraz which is oh-so-easy to drink and was not part of the previous tastings.

There were a few other wines that also showed very well in this tasting. Depending on your budget, any of these will provide drinking pleasure over the summer months.

For prestige Champagne for the Christmas table, look out for next week’s review.

Reviewed

Sittella – Shiraz – Sparkling – NV (18/20+pts. $27). Attractive mid- red colour. Sweet ripe fruit, with wafts of black pepper over plum-like fruit. The palate is rich, yet there is admirable restraint and focus. Excellent fruit density, balance and complexity, this is irresistible drinking and brilliant value.

Croser – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Piccadilly Valley – 2013 (18.1/20pts. $33). The mid-straw colour attests to the bottle age, as does the complex, aged notes on the nose. The palate is, long, rich, intense but balanced by bright Granny Smith acidity. A powerful, food-friendly wine with excellent mouthfeel.Great Value.

AR Lenoble – Champagne – Intense – NV (18/20pts. $50). Very fine and almost racy, with supple mousse and texture. Complex yeasty notes, with hints of floral fruit adding depth. Fine acidity drives a finish that shows purity of fruit and mineral notes. Excellent value from Kemenys.

Seppelt – Original – Sparkling – NV (17.8/20pts. $25). Intense, almost purple colour. Ripe yet restrained Shiraz fruit on the nose and palate, showing white pepper, red fruits, hints of plum and aniseed. The palate is soft and rounded, yet with decent depth. A joy to drink now with Christmas dinner, but will also gain complexity with a year or two in the bottle.

Yarra Burn – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay/Pinot Munier – Vintage – 2015 (17.5/20pts. $25). Quite a serious nose, with complex autolysis characters a feature. The palate is medium-weight, with good balance. A slightly higher dosage makes for easy drinking, but there is enough substance to the wine for those looking for a bit of complexity. Excellent value.

 

Shiraz: October 2018 New Releases

Barry Weinman: 24^th October 2018

The panel was in a tough mood this week, with only three out of the fifteen wines tasted making it to this review.

Interestingly, the top wines came from Brash and Avani. Both are wineries that I am unfamiliar with.

From the Mornington Peninsula, Avani has taken the unusual direction of converting their entire vineyard to Shiraz in 2006, replacing the Pinot and Chardonnay that predominated at the time. The vineyards are managed biodynamically, and planting density has been increased to 4000 vines per hectare.

Reviewed

Avani – Shiraz (Syrah) – The Earth – 2015 (18/20 pts. $85). Northern Rhone in style, with savoury fruit and souring acidity key features. Fragrant, almost floral fruit, with plum, cedar and exotic spices. Very good intensity of fruit, with dusty, chalky tannins. A wine that needs food now, or extended cellaring. (The winery has moved on to the 2016, but this can still be picked up in the trade for around $70).

Brash – Shiraz – 2015 (17.8/20pts). Dark cherry fruit and cooler, herbal notes on the nose. The palate displays high quality fruit, with excellent intensity, texture and length. Fine tannins that are actually quite silky add to the balance. Needs a few years to open up, but a smart wine.

Xanadu – Shiraz – DJL – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $24). Ripe fruit at its core, with menthol, hints of eucalypt and savoury plum-like notes. Good length and mouth-feel to close.

 

Sittella: Sparkling Wine Review

Barry Weinman: 16^th September 2018

The Berns family were inspired to plant a vineyard and start a winery by several visits to the Loire Valley in France. Given the Loire influence,   it is no surprise that sparkling wine was part of the plan.

The first vintage of Sittella’s Sparkling Chenin was in 2001, and the wine has proved to be very popular ever since. And is the biggest selling wine in their range. The style has evolved over time, becoming gradually drier and more refined. One thing that has remained however, is the vibrancy and freshness that makes this such an easy drink.

Like all the sparkling wines in the range, the sparkling Chenin is made in the traditional method used in Champagne, with secondary fermentation occurring in bottle.

The real interest for the winemakers however, is in the wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The winery is dedicated to producing the best possible sparkling wines, made from grapes grown in Pemberton (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) and the Porongurups (Chardonnay). All wines are made at the winery in the Swan Valley.

Given that Western Australia is not known for its sparkling wines, the quality of the wines produced is nothing short of astounding. And based on what we tasted and heard, they are only going to get better over the next few years.

In conjunction with investments in the vineyards and winemaking equipment, the winery has started a reserve wine program. Small quantities of the base wines are being matured in oak casks for a number of years, allowing the winery to use older material when blending, to make more complex and elegant wines that have a consistent style from year to year.

The benefits of this can be seen in the yet to be released 2014 Grand Vintage, where the extra complexity provided by reserve wine adds to the impact of what is a brilliant value sparkling wine.

But there are even more exciting things to come. The first wine in the reserve program is the Avante Garde. Due for release in late September, this is a brilliant wine that will easily hold its own against some of the best French NV champagnes. At $45 and with only 500 bottles made, this is likely to sell out in weeks, so I suggest joining the wineries mailing list and get hold of a few bottles.

Reviewed

Sittella – Sparkling Chenin – NV. ($22). This was first produced in 2001 and is made for 100% Swan Valley fruit. The wine spends between 18 & 24 months on lees to gain complexity. Dosage is a modest 8g/l. Aromas of fresh fruit and citrus on the nose lead to a palate that is fresh and vibrant. The gentle mousse adds to the mouth-feel, and there is decent length and good acidity to add life. A delicious afternoon quaff.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Cuvee Blanc – NV. ($29). The first release of this wine. The handpicked fruit comes from Pemberton, is whole bunch pressed and includes 15% reserve wine from 2014 & 2015. Fragrant, with apple, spice and citrus notes. The palate is fresh, yet there is excellent complexity and depth to the palate. A touch of autolysis, and lemony acid adds to the finish. A more serious wine with focus and precision, the team see this as their new house style.

Sittella – Pinot/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – 2009. Deeper straw colour. Complex and developed with brioche and nutty citrus aromas. The palate is rich and mature, with chardonnay-like vinosity to close. Chewy and textured, with a touch of phenolic astringency on the finish, this is complex and powerful enough to pair with food. Spent 6 years on lees and a further 3 years under cork, the dosage is a low 5g/l.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – Marie Christien Lugten – 2012. The first vintage produced since 2009, this is a serious wine that reminds me of vintage Champagne. Rich and creamy, there are hints of red fruits and fresh apple and excellent persistence. The mouth-feel is silky, and the finish is very long, clean and fresh, with racy acidity to close. The balance and persistence is a feature. Dosage is 5.5g and the wine spent 5 years on lees.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – Marie Christien Lugten – 2013. ($36). Really shows just how good these wines are, with the density of fruit a feature. The Chardonnay adds drive and finesse, whilst the Pinot provides generosity and depth. From 2013 onwards, the amount of reserve wine used in the Grand Vintage has increased, adding depth and complexity. The richness of this wine allows for a slightly higher dosage of 7.33g/l.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – Marie Christien Lugten – 2014. (Pre-Release). This really is very good, with ripe fruit expressing citrus, strawberry and green apple characters. The palate is creamy and supple, with excellent length and texture. The very fine acid builds on the finish. Will gain depth and complexity with time in the bottle, though this is already very good indeed.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Avant Garde – Blanc de Blanc – NV. ($45). Surprisingly restrained on the nose initially, and the palate is where this wine shines. Rich, powerful, polished and supple. The depth of the Chardonnay fruit is a highlight, with apple, lemon/citrus and gentle stone fruit characters that finish with slate-like minerality. There is tremendous length of flavours to close. A brilliant wine that will hold its own against many higher priced wines.

The Avant Garde is the first wine from the reserve program and also the first to introduces Chardonnay from the Porongurups. Made from reserve wines from 2012 – 2014, the wine spent 4 years on lees. Released in late September, only 500 bottles were made.

Sittella – Pinot/Chardonnay – Cuvee Rose – NV ($32). Very pretty, pale copper/bronze colour resulting from the addition of 10% still wine which was made from the same vineyard as the base wine. Complex and textured, red berry fruit is in the strawberry spectrum. This is quite vinous, with the high-quality fruit a feature. 30 months on lees and a modest 6.5g/l dosage adds depth and mouth-feel.

 

Paxton Wines Master Class

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2018

Paxton Wines was established in McLaren Vale in 1979 by David Paxton, and (ironically for the region), focused on growing Chardonnay for a number of years before transitioning its focus to Shiraz.

Looking to improve the health of the vineyards, Paxton started the move to organic and biodynamic viticulture with the 50 acres of Quangdon Vineyard in 2004. Such were the immediate benefits in soil health that in 2005, the winery changed their entire operation of 200 hectares. Official certification was sought and achieved in 2011.

I am a big fan of organics, but on the topic of biodynamics I am less convinced as I do not really understand or indeed believe in a lot of the more spiritual aspects. Where I do get excited about biodynamics is that there is a strong focus on making the vineyards as healthy as possible using minimal interventions.

Paxton take a practical approach to biodynamics, adapting techniques to match the requirements of a modern winery. This is best demonstrated at harvest, where grapes are harvested when they reach optimal ripeness, regardless of whether it is a fruit/flower/root day etc. Making high quality wine is, after all, the primary focus of the winery and, from a logistical perspective, it would be near impossible to pick all the fruit in such compressed timelines.

Paxton now owns 7 vineyards in McLaren Vale, 6 of which focus on Shiraz. The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly the Elizabeth Jane vineyard, which was planted in the 1870s, and has undergone extensive rehabilitation in recent years.

Winemaker Richard Freebairn hails from Western Australia and has been in charge of winemaking at Paxton for the last four years.

Overall, the value offered is excellent and, f  rom a quality versus value perspective, the Jones Block was the highlight for me!

N.B. All prices are RRP, though there are significant discounts available from the cellar door

Reviewed

Paxton – Guesser – White Blend – 2017 ($18). From a cooler year in McLaren Vale. A field blend of what is growing in the Thomas vineyard, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris: Stone fruit and tropical notes, with nice acid, mouth-feel and good length. A great value everyday drink this spring.

Paxton – Pinot Gris – 2018 ($22). Lemon, lime and floral notes on the nose. The palate is a textural treat, with a supple, creamy mouthfeel and just a touch of residual sugar to add balance. Good length, with fresh acidity to keep the finish fresh. Will be a delight with lemon-infused roast chicken.

Paxton – Chardonnay – Thomas Block – 2016 ($25). Thomas Block is a cooler vineyard that is up to 2 degrees cooler than the rest of the region. 40% of the fruit was pressed to barrel (small proportion new) with wild yeast fermentation. There was no inoculated for malolactic fermentation, but it is welcomed if it occurs spontaneously. The remaining 60% is fermented in tank for freshness, with a small amount of lees stirring to add depth. The wine shows pineapple fruit and bright acidity. Whilst not overly dense, it has decent complexity and length, with hints of cashew nut and creamy lees texture. An approachable Chardonnay that makes for good drinking.

Paxton – Rose – 2017 ($20). A Shiraz/Grenache blend that has a lovely salmon colour. Turkish delight aromatics, gentle red fruits, with just enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Uncomplicated, easy drinking, with a modest level of residual sugar adding texture/mouth-feel.

Paxton – Guesser – Red – 2016 ($18). A red blend. Juicy, succulent and vibrant, with soft tannins and accessible berry fruit. An easy drinking red that will keep the in-laws happy with a Sunday roast.

Paxton – Graciano – 2017 ($30). In McLaren Vale, Graciano needs a lot of management in the vineyard so as to keep the canopy up to protect the fruit. To manage yields, 50% of the crop is dropped green, to ensure the concentration of the finished wine. It has an unusual nose that is savoury and just a bit funky. The palate is textured and tight, with the fine acidity keeping everything in check. The winemaker suggests that this will age very well in the long term, but my preference would be to enjoy it with a hearty bowl of lamb ragout over the next few years.

Paxton – Shiraz – NOW – 2018 ($25). NOW = Natural Organic Wine. Despite the name natural, it is worth noting that this is clean and very well made. It is preservative-free and bottled early (May) to maintain the fruit. Vibrant, almost candied fruit on the nose leads to a palate that is a little shy to start. There is, however, a core of delicious ripe fruit that runs the length of the palate. Try with a pizza over the next year or two.

Paxton – Shiraz/Grenache – AAA – 2016 ($20). This is delicious. The vibrant Grenache fruit adds instant appeal, whilst the core of Shiraz adds structure. Cherry and plum fruit, with supple spice. Textured and chewy, with fine tannins and acid. Good now with food, but will really hit its straps with another 3-5 years in the bottle. A 65/35 blend that is primarily aged in older oak.

Paxton – Shiraz – MV – 2016 ($20). The MV in the title reflects the fact that this wine is from McLaren Vale, but also that it is multi vineyard. Souring berry fruit is the main focus here. The savoury finish is tight and linear, with good length and chewy, textural components. The oak (10% new) adds texture, but does not cloud the fruit. With air, the fruit opens up and gets quite lively. Excellent value drinking!

Paxton – Shiraz – Quandong Farm – 2015 ($30). Ripe black currant and plum fruit that is quite powerful. Ripe berry fruit the focus of the vibrant palate. Approachable and lovely drinking, with silky tannins. A touch of carbonic maceration adds vibrancy. 10 months in French oak (30% new). Interestingly, the oak has no toasting, as it is used primarily for texture.

Paxton – Shiraz – Jones Block – 2015 ($40). The Jones Block was planted in 1960s, and there is more density to the fruit than any of the previous wines. Powerful and ripe, with more obvious oak and with hints of vanilla and spice. An impressive wine that has some of the chocolate-berry fruit characters that I associate with McLaren Vale Shiraz. Fine tannins and oak add texture and complexity. The fruit is hand-picked, spends 18 months in oak (40% new/60% 2 y/o) which has had medium-toast and includes a small percentage of American oak.

Paxton – Elizabeth Jean – 2015 ($100). The Elizabeth Jean vineyard is part of the Thomas Block, and as befitting the special nature of the vineyard, the fruit is handpicked, hand plunged and pressed to French oak (50% new) to complete fermentation. This wine has a real “wow” factor. The increased concentration here is noticeable. Powerful, dense and intense, yet the finish is neither heavy nor cloying. The tannins are very fine and elegant, adding texture to the close. A superb wine that could be enjoyed anytime over the next 20 years+.

Margaret River Cabernet Masterclass

Barry Weinman: 23^rd June 2018

Margaret River has been blessed with a succession of good to very good vintages from 2007 to 2011. If anything however, the years from 2012 to 2016 were even better, with many wineries claiming to have made their best ever wines from these years. 2014 probably garnered the most praise, yet some winemakers are claiming their 2015 and 2016 vintage wines are even better.

When it comes to selecting a dozen or so of the state’s best Cabernets to put into a tasting like this, we are blessed for choice, with several well-established wineries producing some of the best Cabernet-based wines in Australia (and, perhaps, the world). There is also a new breed of wineries that are producing great wines, making the choice even more difficult.

So the selection below is not a definitive list of WA’s finest. For example Howard Park’s Abercrombie had every right to be here. All wines reviewed however, clearly deserve their place on the list.

The tasting served to highlight both the tremendous quality and the value that Western Australian Cabernet can offer, when viewed on the world stage. With the best examples from France and the USA costing upwards of $1000 per bottle, most of these wines are cheap by comparison (at $500, the exception is Cullen’s Vanya).

The real value starts with the Jack Mann (equal top wine) at around $100, and the wines selling for less than $100 must surely be considered bargains! For me the greatest value was offered by:

• Evans & Tate Redbrook: $40 (2013 vintage currently available from the winery)
• Deep Woods Reserve: $65 (2015 vintage currently available from the winery)
• Leeuwin Estate Art Series: $69 (2014 available from the winery)
• Cape Mentelle: $80 (small quantity of 2014 available from Lamont’s)
• Cherubino Frankand River: $83 (2015 available from the winery)
• Houghton Jack Mann: $100 (though can be picked up cheaper)

A special thanks to the team at Lamont’s Cottesloe for hosting this tasting!

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.6/20pts – $80). Dark and brooding, this is somewhat of a beast right now. The palate has chewy fine tannins, is textured, long, and has a defined minerality to the acid driven finish. The fruit really needs time to fully express itself making this wine a 20+ year proposition. Will get higher points in time.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014. (18.8/20pts – $83). This wine possesses a degree of minerality that is not often seen in Australian Cabernet. Very long and fine, with the fruit persisting to the close. There is great depth to the fruit and a balance that few in this line-up could match. A charming wine that will be at its best with a great steak if served now, but will continue to improve for two or even three decades.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2015 (18.7/20pts – $500). Closed and subdued, this is firm and unyielding, yet remarkably, presents with a near seamless palate transition. Long and fine, but needing years for the fruit to emerge and show of its beauty. Brilliant, but be patient!

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.8/20pts – $65). Supple blackcurrant and cherry fruit, with hints of spice and a savoury lift from the oak. The palate is refined, balanced and very long. The fruit lingers, eventually giving way to fine tannins that build on the finish. Tasting this superb wine was a near religious experience!

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2013 (18.7/20pts – $40). This is a powerful, yet compact wine of great merit. There is seductive blueberry fruit, with menthol and a touch of eucalypt adding interest. The fine grained tannins support the fruit beautifully, with blueberry and spice the main features on the palate. Ripe and focussed, this wonderful wine has great length of flavours. Showing the first signs of development, this wine continued to improve in the glass for some time and is great drinking now (or in 10 years). Unbelievable value for money!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2015 (19/20pts – $100). Brilliant colour. This wine shows everything good about Cabernet. Great quality fruit, with blueberry, spice, blackcurrant and a hint of eucalypt married to fine grained cedary oak. The tannins are a treat to behold, as they add texture and depth, without detracting from the fruit in the slightest. A truly effortless wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, or any time over the next 20 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2014 (18.8/20pts – $69). Wonderful wine! Silky red fruit is paired to an almost earthy, textural palate, making for a powerful and impactful wine. Mulberry and spice notes abound, with the fragrant fruit really building with air. Hints of cassis, minerals, and fine tannins carry the palate to a very long close.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2015 (18.6+) A crackingly good wine, with bright, succulent fruit married to souring acidity and fine tannins. Approachable and easy to drink, as the tannins are so very fine, yet this will also develop more depth with time in the cellar. Subtle and elegant, the supple palate has great length.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tom Cullity – 2013. (18.8/20pts – N/A). The perfumed violet aromas are a highlight, though there is a degree of restraint to this wine at present. The palate combines berry fruit with spice, cedar and a touch of vanilla/coffee notes to close. The mouth-feel is amazingly supple and silky, with no rough edges on the very long finish. Great wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tom Cullity – 2014 (18.9/20pts – $160). Fresher, tighter and more restrained than the 2013, with prodigious yet fine tannins and ripe black fruits on the palate. This is powerful and intense, but needs years to come around. Really blossomed after an hour in the glass, but is a 20 year+ proposition. Magnificent.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Matthew – 2014 (19/20pts – $150). Blueberry, redcurrant, violets and gentle spice on the nose. This is quite a contrast to the 2014 Tom Cullity, with an explosion of bright red fruits on a palate that is long, silky and deliciously supple, though it does get quite grippy with air. Excellent oak use supports the fruit perfectly. Whilst this is approachable now, this is a 10-20 year proposition.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Russel – 2015 (18.8/20pts – $150). The brilliant ripe fruit is fragrant and supple. There is also an amalgam of savoury notes that add depth, texture and interest. Coffee, cedar and cinnamon all come to mind. The palate is finely textured, with the silky tannins and great depth to the fruit. One of the best drinking wines in the tasting, but also capable of extended aging.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Clementine Eloise – 2016 (18.9/20pts – TBC). Pre-release sample. Remarkable poise for such a young wine. Refined balanced and oozing elegance, the pretty, ripe fruit has been skillfully handled, with the supple oak adding depth and texture. Long, supple and seamless, with blueberry fruit and a touch of menthol. A totally delicious wine that has the depth to age well for a decade or more.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.7/20pts). Juicy redcurrant and plum fruit over menthol and herbal notes here, reminding me of Coonawarra. The palate is very long, with the fruit the main focus. The oak tucked away nicely, adding textural notes on the close. Not as big as some here, but there is great quality fruit and wine-making on show. Can be drunk now with pleasure, but also very age-worthy. Brilliant!

New Release Tasting – June 2018

Barry Weinman: 16 ^th June 2018

This week’s panel tastings combined brackets of traditional varieties, as well as a selection of alternative varieties that generated a lot of discussion among the panel.

The wines reviewed are all about value, and include a smartly packaged GSM from Angove, as well as a couple of interesting reds from Patritti that are not only great drinking, they are well packaged and very affordable.

Reviewed

Patritti – Vermentino – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $18). A real surprise package, with pretty fruit that is floral and almost perfumed, with musk and tropical fruit notes. The palate is zesty and light, with excellent texture and just a touch of residual sugar to add balance and flesh out the mid palate. An excellent drink for a sunny afternoon with friends, and worked a treat with lemon infused roast chicken.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – 2016 (17.7/20pts – $25). The purple colour is striking. Initially quite closed, but with air, the ripe berry fruit can be coaxed from the glass. The palate is structured, textured and long, with fine tannins cloaking the dense fruit. Gets savoury and chewy to close. A smart wine that will be a treat with rustic food this winter, or given 5 – 10 years in the cellar.Angove – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Family Crest – 2017 (17.9/20pts – $22). The rich red berry fruit was a little subdued initially, but this blossomed after a couple of days in the bottle! The dense, ripe fruit is textured and long, with mid-palate minerality, bright acidity and supple oak adding depth. A powerful wine that could be enjoyed with a hearty steak now, but would be best with 10 years in the cellar.

Patritti – Saperavi – 2011 (N/R). When the 2014 and 2015 samples arrived, I thought it a good idea to open a 2011 from the cellar to see how it was developing. Lovely nose where the ripe fruit is perfectly matched to the more savoury characters. Aromas are an amalgam of berry, plum and cherry, with perfumed rose blossom highlights. The palate is initially more savoury, with souring acidity and fine tannins keeping the fruit in check. There is real depth to the palate, but this needs more time.

Patritti – Saperavi – 2014. Unfortunately affected by cork taint.                                   Patritti – Saperavi – 2015 (17.5/20pts – $22). Saperavi is a traditional Georgian variety that was planted by Patritti after a visiting winemaker shared a bottle with the family. Lovely ripe fruit that is at once pretty and refined, yet there is density and weight underpinning the fruit. The palate is lighter than the 2011, and more approachable as a result. Decent length and mouthfeel to close, with a hint of liquorice. Would be brilliant with home-made pizza, but also with a few years in the cellar.

New Release Reds: April 2018

Barry Weinman: 22^nd April 2018

This week’s new release tasting resulted in only three recommendations, but all are very worthwhile.

Regular readers will know that I am a big fan of Singlefile. Their mainstream wines offer brilliant quality at very reasonable prices. The 2016 Shiraz is no exception. A cellar-worthy wine that took two days to really reach its peak.

I was interested to see Langton’s auctioning a quantity of the 2014 Jones Block Shiraz from Paxton. This is a wine that even at its retail price of $40 offers fair value. That it can be bought at auction for under $25 (all fees included) makes it somewhat of a bargain. (It is also good buying from the cellar door at $30).

Reviewed

Snowball – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2010. (17.7/20pts). Plum, mint and ripe berry fruit shine on the nose. The palate is long and supple, with dusty tannins and supple oak. The fine acidity adds to the texture and balance. At 8 years of age, this is excellent drinking over the next 3 – 5 years.

Singlefile – Shiraz – 2016 (18+/20pts – $37). A wine of  class and distinction that has both grace and presence. Cooler climate fruit showing cherry/berry fruit combined with souring plum acidity. Long and supple, the dense fruit is finely structured and restrained. Just a baby, this needs years to reach its peak.

Paxton – Shiraz – Jones Block – 2014 (18/20pts – $40). This wine has a wow factor. Ripe plum and liquorice, with hints of tar and spice. The palate is rounded, yet focused, with the savoury oak adding depth and texture to the core of lovely fruit. The tannins are fine, but noticeable, so time in the cellar will be rewarded.

New Release Tasting: April 2018

Barry Weinman: 7^th April 2018

We tasted a number of Italian and French wines this week, but a combination of cork taint and old-fashioned winemaking ruled them all out.

What did impress were a number of Western Australian wines. If you are after a bargain, then the 2017 Shepard’s Hut Pinot fits the bill perfectly. A delicious, vibrant, food-friendly wine that can be picked up for around $20.

Moving up the price range, the Windows Estate Chardonnay is a convincing effort, with powerful fruit matched to complex wine-making inputs.

Finally there are two vintages of Cape-Mentelle’s Zinfandel. The 2014 is structured, powerful and suitable for the cellar, whilst the 2015 is my pick of the tasting, offering vibrant, approachable fruit combined with complex spicy notes. A great drink now, but also worthy of time in the cellar.

Reviewed

Windows Estate – Chardonnay – Estate – 2016 (18/20pts – $45). Creamy and complex, yet retains freshness and vibrancy. Curry leaf characters, minerality, struck match and flintiness add depth and texture, reminding me of fine white Burgundy. Judicious use of high quality oak aids mouthfeel. Powerful and impressive!

Singlefile – Cabernet/Merlot – 2016 (17.8/20pts – $25). Mint and menthol notes combined with succulent ripe fruit, gentle oak and hints of spice. A delicious, early- drinking wine that would be great with braised lamb as the weather cools.

Shepherd’s Hut – Pinot Noir – Porongurup – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $25). Very pretty and almost delicate, with vibrant fruit on both the nose and palate. A touch of whole bunch fermentation adds a savoury, spicy component to the finish. Minimal oak and fine acid adds to the mouth-feel and finish. Makes me yearn for a simple roast to keep it company. Don’t be put off by the pale colour, this is a worthwhile wine.

Talisman – Zinfandel – 2014 (17.5 – 18/20). Starts off relatively restrained, but this builds with air to show plumy fruit and liquorice/earthy notes. Fine acids and drying tannins add depth, to a spicy, rich and intense wine. Short-term cellaring would help soften the tannins, but at four years old, this is already drinking well.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2015 (18/20 – $65). Wow, this is fantastic. Pristine fruit, polished winemaking and quality oak all combine into a wine that is great now, but will also cellar for a decade. Long and supple, with only modest alcohol (for a Zinfandel), the balance is the key. Builds spicy notes on the long finish, with high quality oak adding depth. 14.5% alc.

Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2014 (17.8/20 – $65). More restrained and taut, with depth, texture and structure. The tannins are firm, yet fine, keeping the whole palate subdued. Needs years, but all the elements are in place. 15% alc.