Category Archives: New Release – Wine Reviews

Ostler – Current Release

Reviewed: 25th April 2013

I was pleased to have the opportunity to meet with Jim Jerram from Ostler recently to try their current range of wines as well as several older Caroline’s pinot noirs.

Located in the cooler Northern Otago sub-district of Waitaki Valley,  the pinot vineyard was first planted in 2002. The relatively thin top soil, with limestone substrate was the key attraction to the producers when they purchased the land for the vineyard.

The pick of the wines was the 2010 Caroline’s pinot. A superb wine that is worthy of time in the cellar. The bargain though, and the one that I will recommend the strongest is the Blue House Vines pinot from 2011. Not overly complicated, but bright and delicious.

Reviewed

Ostler – Riesling – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Floral fruit on the nose, with subtle spice. The palate is textured and there is a degree of phenolic richness. Whilst there is noticeable sweetness, the excellent length and acid on the finish sets this apart, leaving the palate relatively dry to close. An interesting alternative to Australian rieslings. This has 10.6 g/l of residual sugar and is the 1st vintage from this vineyard (planted in 2008)

Ostler – Pinot Gris – Audrey’s – 2011 (17). Lovely floral notes here. This is an amalgam of Turkish delight, spice and phenolic texture. Quite a chewy finish adds interest, but the finish is a touch closed at first. The mid-palate is viscous and textured and this opens and develops richness in the glass. There is good acidity to close. A portion of this wine ferments in old oak.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Blue House Vines – 2011 (17). Lighter hue than the other pinots tasted here. Soft, fresh and vibrant, this has attractive, albeit uncomplicated fruit aromas. The fresh cherry fruit is the key feature on the palate, though there is enough structure and souring acidity to make this quite delicious. This is an early drinking style that will work really well with food now.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2010 (18+). More density to the fruit compared to the Blue House Vines. The nose is closed, but hints at potential. The palate is dense, structured, powerful, and chewy. The tannins and oak are present, but add texture and complexity rather than overt flavours. With air, this opens to show sweet red fruits and the structure really builds. Whilst this is a wine that needs time to show its best, the balance is spot on. The wine has new world fruit, but is not as fleshy as many Central Otago wines.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (17.5). Typical of the style, but from a cooler year. Perfumed, spiced, floral, red fruits on display. In the mouth, this is silky and supple, developing texture and body on the mid-palate. Lovely texture and mouth-feel, this is very good drinking now, but also has the potential to develop more texture and complexity. Fined and filtered which is not normal for the producer.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2006 (17.5). Very seductive nose! Silky and supple, with masses of red fruit on the palate. Textured and soft, the dusty tannins add to the long, fine, spicy finish. Excellent persistence. Very impressive given the age of the vines.

Mixed Whites – New Release

Reviewed: 15 January 2013

This tasting was an opportunity to look at all the odds and sods that have been sitting on the tasting bench for the last month or two, looking for an appropriate tasting. The first challenge when tasting these blind was to try and work out what I was bench-marking them against.

The wines that have made it to this review all represent excellent current drinking. I also have a suspicion that the Deep Woods verdelho will age very well if someone wants to have a punt.

Reviewed

Deep Woods – Verdelho – Verde – 2012 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit here. This is a wholesome and lively wine with plenty of appeal. An excellent stand-alone wine to be served cold on a warm day. (Early picked, whole bunch pressed, 12.5%).

Shingleback – Viognier – John Foolery – 2012 (17). This opens with quite pretty aromatics, minerals and fragrant spice. Apricot comes to the fore on the palate, with lovely clean fruit and cleansing acidity. Long and savoury, this is a smart wine.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Long Row – 2012 (16.8). Pear, almond and spice on the nose. The palate is very neutral and more about texture and mouth-feel rather than overt fruit. The acid really brings this to life on the close and the length is good. This is a very good example of a grigio style and is well suited to food. I do not know how Angove produce wines of this quality for $10!

Yalumba – Viognier – Y Series – 2012 (16.8). Musk, stonefruit and herbal notes on both the nose and palate. This is a really interesting wine, with grassy notes over apricot fruit flavours. Quite powerful in the palate, this has excellent length and real depth, though there is some phenolic grip to close.

De Bortoli – Pinot Gri etc. – La Boheme – Act Three – 2012 (16.6). The nose has quite spicy and bright fruit, with musk, ripe pear and lychee aromas. The palate is quite ripe and textured and finishes quite soft and supple with good acid balance. An easy wine to like.

Lindeman’s – Pinot Grigio – Bin 85 – 2012 (16.4). Subtle spiciness on the nose with musk and nectarine. Very viscous, this has admirable life and vitality, especially given its budget price. The fruit is quite powerful and complemented by plenty of acid. The finish is a touch sharp, but is not unpleasant. Remarkably good for the price, this will be best served quite cold.

Bella Riva – Pinot Grigio/Vermentino – 2012 (16.3). Gentle and soft ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is soft and round, with enough acidity to keep the finish fresh. The touch of phenolic richness adds texture. This is a good mid-afternoon drink.

New Release – Mixed Whites

Reviewed: 2 January 2011

This was a fascinating tasting with a large variety of grapes and styles. All of the reviewed wines represent an interesting alternative to the mainstream wines that dominate the market.

The highlight for the panel was the three wines from Lillypilly. These are high quality desert wines that possess a degree of lightness and balance that makes them a delight to drink.

Reviewed

Lillypilly – Noble Blend – 2008 (18.2). Restrained on the nose, this is very youthful and has remarkable lavender aromas. There is, again, that lovely balance of apricot and orange, with a freshness that makes this a delight to drink. Superb length and mouth-feel with the finish fanning out and evolving for more than a minute. Excellent wine!

Lillypilly – Noble Blend – Family Reserve – 2002 (18). Richer colour suggesting more bottle age. A bigger, richer wine with more complexity and greater length. The palate is viscous and mouth-coating, with lovely acidity preventing the finish from becoming cloying. Apricot jam and marmalade fruit to close. A lovely aged wine. (This is still available from the winery).

Lillypilly – Noble Harvest – 2006 (17.5). Sweet ripe apricots to the fore, with complex orange marmalade notes. Perfumed, this has a lightness the belies the style. Fresh and balanced, the moderate sweetness is balanced by fresh acidity. Has a lovely honeyed finish of some length. Not as much intensity as the 2008, but a lovely drink.

Tyrrell”s – Semillon – Brookdale – 2011 (17). Straw and lemon on a reserved and restrained nose, this has lovely poise and balance. Needs a few years to open up and show its fruit.

Yering Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Rousanne – MVR – 2009 (17). Complex nose with apricot, orange peel, honey and cashew nut. Very complex, yet refined palate that is long and has well judged phenolics and viscosity. The best wine here from a textural component and European in style. Drink now.

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2011 (16.8). This wine took me by surprise. Very neutral nose initially, this became quite floral with air. The palate has both depth and breadth. Racy acidity adds to the package and the touch of sweetness fleshes out the finish.

Redbank – Garganega – 2010 (16.7). Another neutral wine that has plenty of life on the palate. Again, it is the fresh acidity that carries the palate. Good length and mouth-feel too. Has some character.

De Bortoli – Verdelho – “Deen” Vat 6 – 2010 (16.5). Perfume, pear skin, apricot, orange peel and musk. Lovely palate that combines crisp acidity with almond meal and fresh fruit. Good length, the hint of residual sugar adds balance and makes this a great drink.

Tyrrell”s – Semillon – Lost Block – 2011 (16.5). More zest and fruit up front compared to the Brookdale. The palate has lovely, lemony fruit. Quite textured, this has excellent fruit weight and length. Good value alternative to a sauvignon blanc.

Yalumba – Vermentino – The Y Series – 2011 (16.5). This is an interesting wine, with aromatic qualities similar to the Alsatian varieties. The palate is quite neutral, but with excellent acidity and good length. Mouth-watering, so would suit food well. Another good value wine from Yalumba.

Ulacia – Zuri/Beltza – 2010 (16). I was surprised to see this had frizzante when poured. Fresh and floral, this has none of the sweetness I was initially expecting. Bone dry, the palate is very drying and long. Indigenous Spanish white grapes. One to confuse your wine friends with.

New Release Whites

5 January 2010

Through the course of a year we taste hundreds of wines from each of the mainstream varieties (shiraz, chardonnay etc). This allows the panel to look at a single variety at most tastings. This is an acid test, as each wine is being compared against all others in the line up. Over the year, we receive wines from less common varieties as well. This tasting allowed us to look through a range of wines.

The surprise for me was the Moondah Brook verdelho. In the late 1990s through to the early 2000s, these wines were of high quality and delivered extra-ordinary value. It was apparent that Houghton was including a large proportion of premium South-West fruit in the blends. Whilst I am yet to see the latest red wines, the verdelho was a real treat.

On a different note, the Grossett Off-Dry riesling was a revelation. This has the purity of fruit typical of the Watervale region in the Clare Valley, but possessed a drinkability courtesy of the residual sugar that was outstanding. In one vintage, this has surely become the benchmark for the style in Australia. (Mr Grossett has made several previous vintages of this style, but this is the first that he has released under the Grossett label.

Finally, for a cheap sparkling wine, the Griffith Park is a good quaff.

Reviewed

Grossett – Riesling – Off Dry – 2010 (18.4). Subtler than the other two rieslings, this is much more akin to a dry riesling in style, with some tropical fruit notes and lemon sherbet. The intensity of fruit on the palate is outstanding and the length is incredible. The finish is pure lime juice, with the residual sugar playing the perfect foil to the acidity. Give it time. A joy to drink!

Houghton – White Classic – 2004 (17.8). Lemony fruit dominates the nose. The aromas are complex, with a touch of match strike and flint (I actually thought there were some barrel ferment characters). The palate manages to remain balanced and textured with quite an elegant finish. The age was indicated by some honey and toastiness to close. Definitely worth a try.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Bimbimbi – 2010 (17.5). Intense precise nose, with floral fruit notes. Musk and a touch of lime. Piercing fruit on the palate, but without the ultimate depth of the Grossett. Extremely long and fine, the sugar balances the acid well. Lime fruit to close. Not mainstream.

Momo – Pinot Gris (17.4). Floral and sherbet-like on the nose. There is also a touch of apricot nectar on a ripe nose. Mouth-filling and textured, this has excellent intensity and quality fruit. The length is a highlight as are the stone fruit characters. Fantastic texture and aromatics.

Moondah Brook – Verdelho – 2009 (17). Fresh and zesty nose. Bright tropical fruit on the palate, with a touch of grassiness. The line and length are both very good and the crisp acid makes for very fine summer drinking.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2009 (17+). Floral notes and stone fruit on the nose with a touch of wine-making inputs. The palate has marmalade and a touch of viscosity. Peachy fruit and finely textured oak on the close. Two days later, this was a joy to drink!

Voyager Estate – Chenin Blanc – 2010 (17). Perfumed and floral, this is quite pristine and fresh. There is really juicy fruit with some tropical notes developing on the finish. Reasonable length and a touch of residual sugar make for an excellent summer drink. (This got better with a day in the bottle).

Wild Rock – Pinot Gris – Sur Lie – 2009 (16.8). Floral and a touch oily on the nose. The palate is rich, round and textured. There is a touch of phenolics on the finish that adds complexity. Good length, but not particularly intense fruit.

Griffith Park – Brut – NV (16.7). Sweet ripe fruit on the nose with a hint of yeasty notes. Clean and fresh, the palate has an appropriate level of sugar sweetness to fill out the mid-palate. A persistent finish that is round and generous makes this a perfect summer quaff. Good value.

Angove – Pinot Grigio – Nine Vines – 2010 (16.4). Quite lifted and aromatic. There is a touch of apricot kernel and almond. The palate is oily, and the phenolics add grip to the finish. Serve cold.

Alkoomi – Riesling – Late Harvest – 2010 (16.8). Germanic in the way the complex citrus notes have a core of minerals running through the nose. Sweeter than the first, this is rich, viscous and balanced with a touch of talc on the close. There is not quite enough acid to balance the sweetness, and I would like a touch more fruit intensity.

New Release Mixed Whites

During the year we receive dozens of wines from each of the mainstream varieties. This makes it easy to put together a line up of 15 – 20 wines made from a single grape or in a similar style. We also receive a wide variety of wines that are not mainstream in Australia. Today’s tasting provided an opportunity to look through a range of wines made from less common grapes.

The wines from Millbrook really caught my attention. Along with Yalumba, Millbrook is producing some of the best examples of a grape that was made famous in the northern Rhone Valley. Small amounts of viognier have been grown alongside the shiraz in Cote Rotie. Often this would be picked and fermented with the shiraz. This has been embraced by the Australian wine industry and there are now hundreds of shiraz/viognier blends on the market.

If you would like to try a viognier from the Rhone, look for wines labelled Condrieau. These can be powerful wines and this was certainly reflected in the wines from Millbrook.

Finally, a word on the savagnin from Banrock Station. This is the first wine the panel has come across made from this obscure French white grape. This grape has an interesting story. The vines come from the CSIRO, but were sold as albarino (Spanish Grape). In the last few years there have been quite a few albarinos made and sold in Australia from these vines. DNA testing showed that the vines were actually savagnin.

Whilst there has been much debate in the industry as to how to manage the situation, Max Allen (Weekend Australian Magazine) quite rightly points out that the wines must be labelled as savignin, and we should embrace the floral/savoury characteristics that these wines are capable of producing.

Reviewed

Millbrook – Viognier – 2008 (18). Richer colour. Some apricot and musk on the nose, with complex lees and barrel ferment characters. The palate is powerful, complex, honeyed and with apricot stone fruit. The mouth-feel is viscous and long and the finish has dried apricots and bitter almond to close. Good value at $20 and an interesting alternative to a NZ sauvignon blanc

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2008 (17.8+). Clean and fresh fruit on the nose with some apricot and white fleshed peach and orange peel. Long and viscous on the palate but not as forward as the Perth Hills Wine. Some grippy, nutty characters to close with subtle bitter almond adding freshness. A very classy wine. Will evolve over 2-3 years and is a wine that everyone should try.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Reserve – 2006 (17.4). Oak characters to open on the nose with grassy fruit. The palate initially shows the effect of the oak treatment, followed by lemony fruit. The fruit really builds intensity and the finish is long, fine, restrained and quite lovely. Needs another year to integrate. Acidity keeps things fresh. Worth a try as an interesting alternative to a chardonnay.

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2008 (16.8). Quite simple to start with some caramel notes on the nose. The palate has lemon with a really creamy texture. The finish is not as long as some, but a credible effort (I do not really understand semillon that well).

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2008 (16.6). Unusual “cat’s pee” aroma. Grassy with quite green fruit characters. The palate is bright, lean, long and shows barrel ferment characters. Refreshing, but may need a few years to settle. At 11% alcohol this must have been picked quite early (as is the case with many Hunter Valley semillons).

Banrock Station – Savagnin – Mediterranean Collection – 2009 (16.5). Lime juice, almost riesling – like. Lime cordial on the palate and very viscous mouth – feel. Well made and interesting. Try with Chinese food.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2009 (16.5). A touch more forward than the 2008, this has lovely fruit. The palate is more viscous and has good acid. Lacks intensity on the finish though.

Optimiste – Pinot Gris – 2009 (16.5). Racy and steely nose showing lemon and a hint of brulee. This is quite oily/viscous in the mouth, with a powerful finish showing some barrel ferment characters. Not typical but satisfying.

Drakesbrook – Viognier – 2009 (16.4). Light and fresh, but not complex. Has hints of lifted fruit. The palate is clean, fresh and vibrant, but in a simple un-oaked style. Good quaffing.

Capel Vale – Verdelho – Debut – 2008 (16). Clean and fresh with a touch of passionfruit. The palate is bright, zesty, and crisp. Finishes with fresh acid. Pleasant drinking and has some character.

New Release Whites

21 January 2010

The change to screw cap closures on wines has been something that I have publicly embraced as a great compromise for wine lovers. Being free of all of the imperfections of cork is what it is all about. Whilst the screw cap is inert and reliable, it is not fool-proof. One important difference that I have noted is that wines stay fresher for longer. This impacts on both wines that you buy to age and wines that are best drunk young.

With wines designed for early consumption, like most of the wines in this tasting, the increased freshness has had another consequence that we need to bear in mind. By being slower to develop, they appear to take a little longer in bottle to show there best.

Years ago, I would not dream of keeping a sauvignon blanc for more than a year, but with many of the wines in this tasting, they were actually a little closed and tight. Several looked even better the next day with a bit of airing. I am not suggesting that you start ageing these styles, but it may be worth giving them a bit of air if you find that they do not meet your expectations. Some of the lightly oaked styles can easily take 2-3 years in the cellar.

So to the wines. Once again, the 2009 Clairault sauvignon blanc showed well. This is a lovely drink. Forester also seem to be kicking some goals with their sauvignon. I continue to be impressed with the wines from Deviation Road from the Adelaide hills. I must try and visit them at some stage this year.

This was meant to be a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc tasting, but unfortunately a few pinot gris/grigio wine got mixed up.

Tasted

Deviation Road – Pinot Gris – 2009 (17.5+). Clean and fresh smelling. There is sherbet, musk, pineapple and a touch of cinnamon. Evolves on the palate and has excellent mouth feel and texture. Persistent and balanced. Good acidity to close. (I had a glass with salmon the next night and it was excellent.)

Clairault – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Following on from the excellent 2008, this is another cracker! More overt and obvious than some, there is pristine fruit on the nose in the tropical spectrum with pulpy passionfruit. The palate is really quite tight at the moment but the fruit really builds in the mouth. Will develop over the next 6 months. There might be a touch of residual sugar, but it is all the better for it.

Forester – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17.5). Some zesty fruit on this. Ripe, concentrated passionfruit and tropical fruit with pineapple acid. Some winemaker inputs. Textured palate with good mouth feel. Lemony acid to close. Quite a big wine.

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc Semillon – 2009 (17). Pungent sauvignon characters with lantana and a touch of vanilla. Crème brulle on the creamy palate. Very good fruit and wine making. Fine close.

Hamlin Bay – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (17). Lifted, grassy fruit with some passionfruit and musk. The palate is long, fresh and surprisingly viscous. Passionfruit to close. The finish is closed but well balanced.

Wine By Brad – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.8). Focused and precise nose. Quite fragrant, complex and balanced,with fresh acidity to keep the finish alive. Good summer drinking

Millbrook – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – Barking Owl – 2009 (16.6). Creamy nose, with some interesting fruit. Sweet fruit but without great excitement. Good current drinking.

Deviation Road – Sauvignon Blanc 2009 (16.5+). A different style to the WA and NZ wines. Starts off zesty and tight. The palate is powerful, long, focused but closed. Will do better with 6 months in the bottle.

Forester – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). This is closed and tight. This is quite a serious wine with good viscosity/mouth-feel and some worked wine making inputs. Will be better in a few months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5+). Sweet and ripe fruit on the nose, this is lacking some definition at present. A crowd pleasing style that builds intensity. Will be better in a few months.

Preveli – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16.5). More of the grassy characters here. Some musk and sherbet too. The palate is racy, but the acid is a little firm now.

Sidewood Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – 2008 (16.4). A complex and funky wine with caramel on the close. Unusual.

Arlewood – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2006 (16). Barrel ferment and lees characters. Some grassy characters. This smells expensive. Obvious oak characters dominate the palate. More like an oaked semillon. Will the fruit break free?

Banrock Station – Pinot Grigio – 2009 (16). Riper nose with some candy. Simple but easy drinking. Caramel to close.

Clairault – Semillon Sauvignon Blanc – 2009 (16). Good drinking.

Two Tracks – Pinot Gris – 2008 (16). Musk and sherbet. The palate is complex and worked. Whilst rich and generous, the finish is less precise than some.

Sparkling Wine – New Release

Reviewed: 16 February 2013

My perceptions were really challenged during this tasting by the wines from Yellowglen.

  • Firstly, the quality and style of the new releases from Yellowglen are completely different to the cheap wines in the range and are nothing short of stunning!
  • Secondly, whilst there has been a wholesale move to Tasmania as a source of fruit for sparkling wines, this demonstrates just how good the Adelaide Hills wines can be.
  • Finally, as a die-hard fan of Champagne, here is an Australian sparkling wine that I really want to drink.

The 2002 XV is a wine that has changed my perceptions of Australian sparking wine.

At the other end of the spectrum, there are a couple of cheap and cheery wines that represent excellent value for uncomplicated drinking.

Reviewed

Yellowglen – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Exceptional Vintage – XV – 2002 (18+). Very fine mousse and developed straw colour. There is a creamy, powerful nose with plenty of autolysis characters from the extended lees contact. This wine is fine and elegant, yet complex, developed and round. With Brioche and cookie/bread dough characters,the palate is soft, round and gentle, with delicate acidity to balance the complex fruit. Could be mistaken for Champagne, this is a fine wine with a complex powerful finish. Powerful enough to take food, this is a truly amazing wine. Having spent 9 years on lees and with 8g/l of dosage, this pinot dominant blend is at the very top of Australian sparkling wine. With a RRP of $50, I intend to put some in my cellar for drinking over the next 6 months.

Yellowglen – Pinto Noir/Chardonnay – Exceptional Vintage – XV – 2004 (17.5). Remarkably fresh compared to the 2002 and a brilliant aperitif style. There is good complexity on the nose with restrained fruit characters over buttery/nutty lees characters. The palate is linear and taut, with a touch of yeast and toast to add interest. More fruit driven than the 2002, with a lovely racy edge.

Marri Wood Park – Chenin Blanc – Grandis – Brut Reserve – 2009 (16.6). A straightforward wine with apple like fruit and gentle creamy finish. Fills the mouth nicely and delivers plenty of joy. An easy drinking fun wine that will make many friends. (The name is a little close to that of the French wine perhaps).

Lindeman’s – Bin 25 – Brut Cuvee – NV (16.4). Vibrant mousse! This is in a different style and delivers plenty of charm. Fresh apply fruit on a vibrant palate that is full of life. A fun wine that will provide great drinking on a warm afternoon with friends. Should be about the same price as a fancy bottle of water… Bargain!!!

De Bortoli – Emeri – Chardonnay/Pinot Noir – NV (16.6). This is an interesting wine. Opens with complex bready aromas. The palate has brioche and creamy satisfying mousse. Not particularly complex, but long, refined and very satisfying. The creamy finish is a highlight.

Wolf Blass – Gold Label – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay 2008 (16.5). Simple, straightforward wine that is quite long, round and satisfying. Easy to drink and well made, this should also be very affordable.v

Pinot Noir and Friends

New Release Tasting

24 November 2010

Pinot noir is a most frustrating grape variety. At its best, the wines possess an almost ethereal character that has aficionados paying hundreds, (even thousands) of dollars a bottle. Often, however, the wines lack any redeeming features, as pinot is a difficult grape to get right in the vineyard, and is also fickle in the winery as well.

With this in mind, pinot noir tastings are the most anticipated that the Fine Wine Club tasting panel judge. It is the hope of finding that mystical wine that hooks us in, though the reality is usually much more painful.

The highlight of this tasting were the two wines from Ostler. I do not know anything about them, but the quality suggests that they are an outfit to follow closely. The Peregrine was great drinking and the Provenance good value.

Of the whites, the Yerring Station is worth a try. It took a couple of days to show its best, but this is an interesting wine. The Nicolas Feuilatte was excellent drinking.

Reviewed – Friends

Nicolas Feuilatte – Champagne – Reserve Particulare – NV (17.9). Quite complex and dense, this has powerful, (though fine) fruit. The palate has lovely red berry fruit characters, suggesting a higher use of pinot noir in the blend. The texture and mouth-feel are excellent. This will get even higher marks with a little bottle age to allow the fruit to open up.

Yerring Station – Marsanne/Viognier/Roussanne – MVR – 2008 (17.8). Very restrained compared to the other whites here. The palate is pristine, pure, restrained, taut, racy and long. The mouth-feel is good and the finish mouth-watering. Whilst very subtle, this has plenty to offer and really hit its straps after being open for two days.

Barwick Estate – Viognier – The Collectables – 2007 (17.2). This wine polarised the panel. Complex, textured, powerful and long, the palate is viscous with nutty fruit characters. The phenolics are a bit less pronounced than in the Millbrook, and the extra bottle age is evident. One reviewer found the palate somewhat fat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Limited Release – 2009 (17). This received mixed reviews. This is a powerful and complex wine. There is apricot, almond and a very viscous mouth-feel. One reviewer felt the phenolics overpowered the fruit somewhat.

Millbrook – Viognier – Estate – 2009 (16.8). Reserved, oily, viscous, tight and long. There is not as much going on here, but this is perhaps the best drink right now.

Gabbiano – Asti – NV (16.5). Fine yet very persistent bead. Pretty nose with floral and grape juice notes. Plenty of floral fruit and sugar sweetness on the palate, though I would have preferred a touch more acid to offset the sweetness a little more. Value.

Reviewed – Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2008 (18+). Very powerful fruit. Pretty fruit characters on the nose, though the latent structure is holding everything in check. The palate is long and dense, and the quality of the fruit is evident. The textural components are a highlight, as demonstrated by the silky mouth-feel. Give it a few years and this will be superb.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2009 (18). Fragrant and very pretty nose of red berries. The quality of the fruit is highlighted by the ripe fruit notes and excellent fruit weight. Texture is a highlight on the palate with dense fruit in the cherry spectrum. There are also hints of truffle/forest floor on a silky, slippery and supple finish. This is drinking really well now.

Provenance – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17.7). Seductive nose! This is silky, fragrant and gently spiced, with excellent fruit quality. The palate is long and nicely weighted. There is a touch of earthy textures and oak tannins on the finish. Very promising wine, and good value at around $30.

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – 2008 – (17.5/18). The real sleeper of the tasting. A lighter style, with more spice over fresh red berries. Whilst closed, this is light, fresh, and easy to drink. With time in the glass, this developed lovely sappy fruit and real depth of flavour. After two days on the tasting bench, this showed very well!

Curly Flats – Pinot Noir – 2006 (17.5). A wine in two parts. There is a seductive nose showing hints of strawberry, stone-fruit and earthy/gamey highlights. The palate, however, is very structured, firm and austere. There is good length, but the finish is drying. This could go either way, but my points indicate that I actually liked it.

Barwick Estate – Pinot Noir – The Collectables – 2008 (17/17.5). Starts out firm and muscular, and the cherry/plum fruit is restrained. There is a touch of bacon fat on the nose, typical of the region/oak treatment. This really opened up with time, and the pretty fruit and texture were a highlight.

Ant Moore – Pinot Noir – 2008 (17). An interesting wine. Powerful, textured, nutty and dense. Will age well. (More akin to a dry red in style and would have received higher marks in a tasting with wines other than pinot).

Peregrine – Pinot Noir – Saddleback – 2008 (17). Fragrant plum, spice and strawberry. Quite medium bodied, this has pretty fruit. Not as complex as the best, but good drinking and not bad value for a pinot.

Clemens Hill – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.8). Crimson colour. In some ways this is more shiraz like, with sweet fruit, lovely mouth-feel and fine tannins on a textured finish. This represents good drinking, though it is not strictly pinot-like.

Rau – Pinot Noir – 2008 (16.5). More weight than some here. Fresh fruit on the nose and high acidity on the finish. May evolve.

Shiraz Blends

5 December 2010

An interesting tasting, with several interesting wines. The Stirling was a highlight, but the wines from Kaleske and Sons of Eden delivered real drinking pleasure. A relatively high number of wines did not get reviewed (points less than 16).

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cabernet/Shiraz – The Stirling – 2007 (18+). Wow. Cedar and spice to the fore. There is mint, eucalypt and a rich seam of blackcurrant on the nose. The touch of peperriness attests to the shiraz component. The palate is powerful yet very refined. This is a big wine, and the fruit is overwhelmed by the structure now. There is menthol and satsuma plum on the finish. Needs 5 years but will live for 20. Different style to the Majestic.

Sons of Eden – Grenache/Shiraz/Moved – Kennedy – 2008 (17.8). Intriguing nose. This is fresh and juicy. The palate is dense and chock full of high quality, juicy fruit. There is licorice and plum, as well as some savoury notes. The oak is very much in the background and the length is impressive. The finish is very fine and silky, bordering on seamless. Great drinking over the next 5 years.

Kalleske – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Clarry’s – 2009 (17.7). More restrained, this has dense and concentrated fruit. The palate is a real step up in quality compared to some. There is ripe yet restrained plum and dark berry fruit, with a touch of earthy, forest floor characters. The finish is fresh and bright. A good each way bet.

Deepwoods – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Ebony – 2009 (17). Fresh and clean with mulberry and spice. There is plenty of vibrant fruit on the palate with enough acidity to make the finish refreshing. This is not so complicated, but is fleshy and enjoyable now.

Deepwoods – Rose – Harmony – 2010 (16.8). More savoury, this has obvious red berry fruit characters (raspberry jube). The palate is surprisingly delicate, dry and savoury with a tangy finish. A serious style that would carry food.

Aramis – Shiraz/Cabernet – 2008 (16.5). Softer and more subdued. There is ripe plummy fruit, but there is a lack of vibrancy. Good to drink though.

Devils Lair – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Fifth Leg – 2008 (16.4). Fresh and vibrant. There are peppery shiraz notes with plummy fruit. There is a touch of mint on a chalky finish. Easy to drink.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Butterfly Ridge – 2009 (16). This again has some heavy fruit. There are plummy notes on the nose. This is juicy, but without pretence. Easy to drink.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2009 (16). More support from other panel members. Cooler cabernet fruit to open with some grassy and herbal notes. There is a touch of sweet and sour fruit on the palate. Inoffensive and worth a look if organic is your thing.

Moondah Brook – Rose – Cabernet – 2010 (16). Vibrant colour. Fragrant and floral nose, this is very pretty. The strawberry fruit is the main feature, with a fair bit of residual sugar. Savoury notes on the finish keep it fresh.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 20 May 2012

There was an interesting cross-section of styles here, with quality wines coming from both warmer and cooler regions.

Angove has turned in another stunning value wine with their Vineyard Select shiraz. Handcrafted premium wine for less than $20!

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block Reserve – 2009 (17.8+) A quality wine here. Surprisingly elegant and refined, with a degree of restraint. Licorice, menthol and chocolate to the fore here. The palate is very intense, textured and layered, but it is not overblown. The quality oak has been soaked up by the fruit and the length is outstanding. Make no mistake, this is a big wine that will be at its best in 10+ years. (The style did split the panel, hence no gold medal).

Angove – Shiraz – Vineyard Select – 2010 (17.8). A traditional Australian shiraz. Intense fruit that is somewhat subdued at present. Long, fine, chewy and textured, this has real presence in the mouth. Pepper, spice and textured oak combine with ripe fruit in a well made wine that will last for a decade or two. Another outstanding bargain at $18 or less! (Most of the panel members will be putting this into their own cellars).

The Lane – Shiraz – Reunion – 2009 (17.7+). Medium-bodied and well made, this is a smart wine. Textured, though fine, fruit and oak make for a harmonious finish. Long and fine with licorice and black pepper to close. An impressive wine that will only get better in with a few years in the bottle.

Flametree – Shiraz – 2011 (17.5). Gorgeous nose! Sweet red fruits to the fore with raspberry, spice and vanillin oak. A quality wine, the palate is fragrant, though quite one-dimensional at first. This really builds in the mouth, with white pepper, licorice, menthol and spice. Expensive oak is very well done.

Voyager Estate – Shiraz – 2010 (17). Forward cherry fruit that is both attractive and of decent quality. Well handled in the winery, there is enough density to make the palate rewarding. Long, though straightforward finish. A light, more elegant style from a cooler region.

Best’s – Shiraz – Bin 1 – 2010 (17). A more savoury style that relies on gentle, savoury fruit rather than power fruit and overt oak. Refined, this has quality fruit, but the wine took a couple of days to open up and show its best. Very well made and very long, with plum and mocha notes to close. Enjoyably different in style.

Chalk Board – Shiraz – Barossa – 2009 (16.9). A pretty wine that is still very youthful. Vibrant, juicy, long and spicy, with chocolaty oak to close. I would like to try it again in a year to see how it is coming together. A bargain from Vintage Cellars.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2010 (16.8). Thick and dense smelling, showing licorice, spice and savoury oak. Ripe and quite powerful fruit on the palate with good balance. The finish is a touch short, but otherwise, an impressive wine for the cooler months.

Rogers & Rufus – Grenache – Rose – 2011 (16.8). Very pale salmon colour more akin to a European wine. This is a very good example of the style. There are red fruits, but the overall structure and finish is savoury and drying. Complex, long and mouth-watering, this is the highest mark I have given to a Rose in a long time. This is a style ideally suited to food.

Drakesbrook – Rose – Wild Bird – 2011 (16.5). Enticing nose that is fragrant and floral. Think frangipani and orange peel with a herbaceous twist. Quite a big wine, with nicely judged palate and a somewhat savoury close.

De Bortoli – Pink Moscato – La Bossa – 2011 (16.3). Pretty. This has lovely musk and grapey fruit on the nose. The wine sparkles in the mouth with a sherbet like tingle. Refreshing and quite long, this is a great quaff. 8% alc. (A bargain at under $10).