Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Shiraz: October 2018 New Releases

Barry Weinman: 24^th October 2018

The panel was in a tough mood this week, with only three out of the fifteen wines tasted making it to this review.

Interestingly, the top wines came from Brash and Avani. Both are wineries that I am unfamiliar with.

From the Mornington Peninsula, Avani has taken the unusual direction of converting their entire vineyard to Shiraz in 2006, replacing the Pinot and Chardonnay that predominated at the time. The vineyards are managed biodynamically, and planting density has been increased to 4000 vines per hectare.

Reviewed

Avani – Shiraz (Syrah) – The Earth – 2015 (18/20 pts. $85). Northern Rhone in style, with savoury fruit and souring acidity key features. Fragrant, almost floral fruit, with plum, cedar and exotic spices. Very good intensity of fruit, with dusty, chalky tannins. A wine that needs food now, or extended cellaring. (The winery has moved on to the 2016, but this can still be picked up in the trade for around $70).

Brash – Shiraz – 2015 (17.8/20pts). Dark cherry fruit and cooler, herbal notes on the nose. The palate displays high quality fruit, with excellent intensity, texture and length. Fine tannins that are actually quite silky add to the balance. Needs a few years to open up, but a smart wine.

Xanadu – Shiraz – DJL – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $24). Ripe fruit at its core, with menthol, hints of eucalypt and savoury plum-like notes. Good length and mouth-feel to close.

Chardonnay: October 2018 New Release

Barry Weinman: 20^th October 2018

This tasting was a mixed bag, with some well-known wines missing out on being reviewed, whilst others shone.

Vasse Felix’s recent form with Chardonnay continues with the excellent 2016 vintage. The other highlight was the Suckfizzle. This is the first time that I have seen a Chardonnay under this label and it is an excellent effort. The very cool climate fruit is a contrast in style to the Vasse Felix and would take 5 years in the cellar with ease.

Reviewed

Suckfizzle – Chardonnay – 2017 (18/20pts. $65 ). Attractive nose, where the flint and mineral characters are a highlight. Refreshing grapefruit flavours and acidity define the palate, though with air, the subtle stone fruit notes start to emerge. Lees and barrel ferment characters add depth. A cooler style for the cellar.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Gold Capsule – 2016 (18 – 18.5/20pts – $36). An impressive wine. The high-quality fruit is ripe and supple, with creamy oak and lees notes. The oak treatment is a highlight, the richness is balanced by fine acidity and builds on the finish. This is the sleeper of the tasting. Just a few years should see this blossom.

Grace Farm – Chardonnay – 2017 (17.5/20pts). Creamy nose that is fresh and vibrant, with cashew and ripe peach aromas. This continues on a palate that is very well crafted and balanced. Not the greatest depth to the fruit, but a very enjoyable wine that is well-made, with no rough edges.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2017 (17.5/20pts). Lithe and fresh, this is fairly linear in the mouth and will be excellent with lighter food. The texture and flavours build on the close, so a couple of years should see the mid-palate fill out. Cooler climate fruit characters, gentle minerality and refreshing acidity are all reflections of the vintage.

Cabernet: October 2018 New Releases

Barry Weinman: 8^th October 2018

It was no surprise that the wines from Victory Point, Higher Planes and Fraser Gallop shone in this tasting. What did surprise though, was that these premium Margaret River Cabernets can all be picked up for under $40 a bottle.

It was also good to see some solid wines from Sandalford. If the quality of the new releases are anything to go by, then this will be a winery to watch over the next few years.

Reviewed Fraser_Gallop_Cabernet_Parterre

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2013 (18.3/20pts. $45). Appears more serious on the nose, with high quality oak framing the fruit. The palate is a highlight, as the silky texture is the perfect foil for the ripe, cool-climate berry characters. Hints of mint and eucalyptus round out an impressive, age-worthy wine. (The winery has moved on to the 2014, but this is a bargain at $35 from Nicks).

Higher Planes – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013 (18+/20pts. $38). High quality fruit, with raspberry, blackcurrant and even a touch of cassis on display. Fine, texturing tannins and supple oak serve to close down the fruit on the finish a little, so give it some air, or 10+ years in the cellar. A classic Margaret River Cabernet and very good value.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18+/20). A treat to see this in the line-up. High quality fruit, supple oak (30% new) and texturing tannins all play an important role on the near-seamless finish. Flavours include blackcurrant, cedar and menthol. Great now, but even better with 10-20 years in the cellar. Xanadu_Exmoor_Cabernet

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Exmoor – 2015 (18/20pts – $18). For an entry-level wine, this is a cracking effort and got extra points for value. Supple mulberry, dark berry and plum notes, with silky oak adding texture. Well-crafted and persistent, this could even take a few years in the cellar.

Grace Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (17.8/20pts). I like this. There is ripe, if somewhat subdued blackcurrant fruit, balanced by fine, textural, almost graphite-like tannins and supple oak. Excellent length to close. A very good wine.

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Margaret River – 2017. (17.8/20pts) – A smart wine from the winemaking team at Sandalford. Silky, supple and refined, with elegant, medium weight fruit. A smart, fruit driven drink, with floral fruit.

Affordable Tempranillo

Barry Weinman: 28^th September 2018

Over the last few years, wines from Aldi have received a few good reviews in the media, especially overseas. Now that they are well established in Western Australia, I took the opportunity to taste their range of Tempranillos from Spain which, remarkably, included a pair of Reservas for under $10 a bottle.

To put the wines into perspective, I also included some of the more affordable examples from Vintage Cellars and Dan Murphy and a couple of more expensive wines for good measure. I gave the tasting panel no clue about the origins of the wines, to prevent any bias.

To my great surprise, there were several decent wines, all at bargain-basement prices.

Reviewed

Pablo & Pedro – Tempranillo – 2016 (16.5/20 pts. $9). Sweet fruit, with a dusty/savoury component. The palate is fairly light, with pleasant red berry notes. With no oak to speak of, the gentle cherry-like acidity and tannins add life. An easy-drinking pizza wine from Australia, that is popular at my local Vintage Cellars.

Marques de Riscal – Tempranillo – Proximo – Rioja – 2015 (16.9/20 pts. $9.40). A bit more body than some, with cherry, plum and spice over plum and dark berry fruit. The finish has refreshing acidity and tannins, with little in the way of oak. This is really quite good, and gets a little chewy to close. From Dan Murphy, this is a great drinking entry-level wine from this well-known producer. Now – 3 years.

Chalk Board – Tempranillo – Navara – 2014 (16.8/20 pts. $15). Good quality fruit and chewy, textural tannins here. The fruit is actually quite dense, and opens with air. The tannins are drying and are the main characteristic on the finish. Souring acidity makes a good foil for richer tomato-based pasta dishes. Navarra is in the Basque country in Northern Spain (Vintage Cellars exclusive label).

Baron Amarillo – Tempranillo – Riojo – Reserva – 2012 (17.5/20 pts. $10). A traditional style showing earthy, forest-floor characters over sweet, red berry fruit. This is quite ripe and seductive, with cedar and vanillin characters courtesy of the (American) oak. The palate is initially firm, but the fruit lingers admirably. Almost pinot-like, with masses of red berry fruit. Perhaps a bit rustic, but this is all part of the charm of this excellent value red. Spent 3 years in oak and is exclusive to Aldi.

El Toro Macho – Tempranillo – Utiel – Requena – Barrica – 2013 (17.5/20 pts. $7). Utiel – Requena is a wine district in the Valencia region of Spain. The fruit is more in the plum spectrum compared to the Amarillo. The palate is fresh and lithe, with fine tannins and souring acidity complementing the supple mouthfeel and decent fruit weight. Good length and an enjoyable drink on its own or with slow-roasted lamb shoulder. Brilliant value from Aldi.

Singlefile – Tempranillo – Run Free – 2017 (17.5/20 pts. $25). Clean and fresh, with pristine fruit on both the nose and palate. Bright, succulent, and fresh, with delicious cherry and plum fruit. Uncomplicated and great drinking.

Sittella: Sparkling Wine Review

Barry Weinman: 16^th September 2018

The Berns family were inspired to plant a vineyard and start a winery by several visits to the Loire Valley in France. Given the Loire influence, it is no surprise that sparkling wine was part of the plan.

The first vintage of Sittella’s Sparkling Chenin was in 2001, and the wine has proved to be very popular ever since. And is the biggest selling wine in their range. The style has evolved over time, becoming gradually drier and more refined. One thing that has remained however, is the vibrancy and freshness that makes this such an easy drink.

Like all the sparkling wines in the range, the sparkling Chenin is made in the traditional method used in Champagne, with secondary fermentation occurring in bottle.

The real interest for the winemakers however, is in the wines made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The winery is dedicated to producing the best possible sparkling wines, made from grapes grown in Pemberton (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) and the Porongurups (Chardonnay). All wines are made at the winery in the Swan Valley.

Given that Western Australia is not known for its sparkling wines, the quality of the wines produced is nothing short of astounding. And based on what we tasted and heard, they are only going to get better over the next few years.

In conjunction with investments in the vineyards and winemaking equipment, the winery has started a reserve wine program. Small quantities of the base wines are being matured in oak casks for a number of years, allowing the winery to use older material when blending, to make more complex and elegant wines that have a consistent style from year to year.

The benefits of this can be seen in the yet to be released 2014 Grand Vintage, where the extra complexity provided by reserve wine adds to the impact of what is a brilliant value sparkling wine.

But there are even more exciting things to come. The first wine in the reserve program is the Avante Garde. Due for release in late September, this is a brilliant wine that will easily hold its own against some of the best French NV champagnes. At $45 and with only 500 bottles made, this is likely to sell out in weeks, so I suggest joining the wineries mailing list and get hold of a few bottles.

Reviewed

Sittella – Sparkling Chenin – NV. ($22). This was first produced in 2001 and is made for 100% Swan Valley fruit. The wine spends between 18 & 24 months on lees to gain complexity. Dosage is a modest 8g/l. Aromas of fresh fruit and citrus on the nose lead to a palate that is fresh and vibrant. The gentle mousse adds to the mouth-feel, and there is decent length and good acidity to add life. A delicious afternoon quaff.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Cuvee Blanc – NV. ($29). The first release of this wine. The handpicked fruit comes from Pemberton, is whole bunch pressed and includes 15% reserve wine from 2014 & 2015. Fragrant, with apple, spice and citrus notes. The palate is fresh, yet there is excellent complexity and depth to the palate. A touch of autolysis, and lemony acid adds to the finish. A more serious wine with focus and precision, the team see this as their new house style.

Sittella – Pinot/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – 2009. Deeper straw colour. Complex and developed with brioche and nutty citrus aromas. The palate is rich and mature, with chardonnay-like vinosity to close. Chewy and textured, with a touch of phenolic astringency on the finish, this is complex and powerful enough to pair with food. Spent 6 years on lees and a further 3 years under cork, the dosage is a low 5g/l.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – Marie Christien Lugten – 2012. The first vintage produced since 2009, this is a serious wine that reminds me of vintage Champagne. Rich and creamy, there are hints of red fruits and fresh apple and excellent persistence. The mouth-feel is silky, and the finish is very long, clean and fresh, with racy acidity to close. The balance and persistence is a feature. Dosage is 5.5g and the wine spent 5 years on lees.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – Marie Christien Lugten – 2013. ($36). Really shows just how good these wines are, with the density of fruit a feature. The Chardonnay adds drive and finesse, whilst the Pinot provides generosity and depth. From 2013 onwards, the amount of reserve wine used in the Grand Vintage has increased, adding depth and complexity. The richness of this wine allows for a slightly higher dosage of 7.33g/l.

Sittella – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Vintage – Marie Christien Lugten – 2014. (Pre-Release). This really is very good, with ripe fruit expressing citrus, strawberry and green apple characters. The palate is creamy and supple, with excellent length and texture. The very fine acid builds on the finish. Will gain depth and complexity with time in the bottle, though this is already very good indeed.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Avant Garde – Blanc de Blanc – NV. ($45). Surprisingly restrained on the nose initially, and the palate is where this wine shines. Rich, powerful, polished and supple. The depth of the Chardonnay fruit is a highlight, with apple, lemon/citrus and gentle stone fruit characters that finish with slate-like minerality. There is tremendous length of flavours to close. A brilliant wine that will hold its own against many higher priced wines.

The Avant Garde is the first wine from the reserve program and also the first to introduces Chardonnay from the Porongurups. Made from reserve wines from 2012 – 2014, the wine spent 4 years on lees. Released in late September, only 500 bottles were made.

Sittella – Pinot/Chardonnay – Cuvee Rose – NV ($32). Very pretty, pale copper/bronze colour resulting from the addition of 10% still wine which was made from the same vineyard as the base wine. Complex and textured, red berry fruit is in the strawberry spectrum. This is quite vinous, with the high-quality fruit a feature. 30 months on lees and a modest 6.5g/l dosage adds depth and mouth-feel.

Winery in Focus: Sittella (Part One)

Barry Weinman: 10^th September 2018

The Berns Family started Sittella with the purchase of land in the Swan Valley in 1993 that now houses the winery and vineyards. They subsequently bought and sold (in 2003) a vineyard in Margaret River, before purchasing their definitive Margaret River vineyard in the Wilyabrup sub district in 2010. This is a mature vineyard planted on heavy loam/gravel soils.

The family recently purchased another 5 hectares adjacent to the Margaret River vineyard and are embarking on an impressive planting program. Impressive, not because of the size of the vineyard, but rather for the planning, care and expense that has gone into choosing the site, grape clones and trellising.

This attention to detail in the vineyard is replicated in all aspects of the winemaking process. Winemakers Colby Quirk (Senior Winemaker) and Uri Berns have a stated aim of producing the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia, and are leaving no stone unturned in their quest to improve on (the already high) standard that they have achieved with Cabernet and Chardonnay.

Their success has not happened overnight. As this tasting demonstrated, the winemaking team have been honing their skills and refining techniques over the 6 years that they have been working together. They have tweaked vine management and adjusting winemaking to allow the fruit quality to shine in the bottle.

From 2015, both the Chardonnay and Cabernet have moved to another level of refinement.

Given the passion and skills shown by the winemakers, along with a serious investment in the vineyards and winery, it is not surprising that the wines are very high quality. What really surprised was:

The wines are seriously cheap for the quality on offer
The sparkling wine program is, if anything, even more significant than that for the still wines.

I will write in more details about the sparkling program next week, as the quality/value on offer would be hard to beat anywhere in Australia. The sparkling wines really are that good! There are also other worthwhile wines in the range, including a delicious Swan Valley Verdelho and an unctuous PX (Pedro Ximenez), made from base material going back to 1998.

Reserve Chardonnay

The fruit for the reserve is sourced from 1.5 hectares from the Wilyabrup Vineyard. The vineyard is planted with Dijon 95/96 clones, which produces less of the pineapple characters associated with the Gin Gin clone that is ubiquitous across the region. Production is limited to 200 dozen/year.

There has been a clear evolution in style over the 5 vintages, with the oak becoming ever more refined and the fruit more complex. The oak regime is consistent, with 25% new each year. The aim is to use the best oak possible, with only subtle changes to the forest and level of toast over time.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2013. Complex, with powerful stone fruit on the nose, along with creamy notes from the lees work and oak. With passionfruit and hints of tropical fruit, this is a bigger style, with the ripe fruit balanced by toast notes. Textured, chewy and powerful, though the oak sits a touch prominently on the close.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2014. The depth and power are palpable, yet the balance and poise are noteworthy. This is supple and refined, with stone fruit characters over creamy winemaking inputs. The high-quality oak is finely meshed with the fruit adding to the mouth-feel and texture. Seamless, balanced, long and silky, the acid finish is a highlight. Wonderful drinking over the next few years.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2015. More restrained and taut, with the fruit tightly bound at present. An evolution in style, with the balance a highlight. Supple and textured, the subtle stone fruit, minerality and lemony acid leads to a very long. The result of perfectly ripe fruit combined with silky winemaking. Now – 2023.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2016. From a warm, dry year. Restrained, yet with latent power. The fruit and oak are in perfect harmony, yet the whole package is reserved and tight. Near seamless palate transition, with the oak adding depth, but no overt flavour. Supple, long and age worthy, this is not as intense as the 2017, but will be better drinking in the short term.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2017 ($31.50). From a very cool year, with fruit that was in perfect condition when harvested. Fresh, powerful and zesty, this is all potential right now. The fruit is dense and ripe, though tightly bound and shy. The palate is supple, balanced and very long. Subtle pineapple and lemon, along with the trademark white peach fruit. Tightly coiled and powerful, there are hints of spice, citrus and minerality to close. Needs years, but a great wine already.

Cabernet Sauvignon

The stated aim of the winemakers is to make the best Cabernet based wine from Western Australia (and Australia). To this end, there has been a huge time investment in the vineyard, with every aspect of production carefully managed to ensure that the absolute best fruit is produced.

This attention to detail has been clearly carried through to the winery as well. The oak is the best available, with 40% new each vintage. The current vintage is 2015 and only 150 dozen are produced each year.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – 2012. Pristine fruit that is just starting to show some development, but this is still fresh and youthful. There is a generosity to the fruit that is captivating, with the fine balance and structure framing the fruit perfectly. Very long and fine, the red berry fruit is supple and succulent and there are hints of mint to close. A great drinking red that will also live for a decade or more.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – 2014. A touch more herbal, but still ripe and supple. This is quite tight and needs years to hit its peak. The fruit is complemented by silky tannins that add a little grip on the back palate, with supple oak and fine, tight acidity. A superb wine in the cooler spectrum that will live for 2 decades or more.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – 2015. ($52). An amalgam of fruit and savoury characters, with brilliant red berry/cherry fruit, hints of cassis and mint and very fine, texturing tannins. Superbly made, and worthy of extended time in the cellar. Gets a little chewy to close, so give it 10 years to really start to open up. A great wine!

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2016. Harks back to the 2012, with brilliant ripe fruit, but the structural components are, if anything, turned up a notch here. Chewy, texture, and long. The perfectly ripe fruit is poised and balanced. Near seamless and with great density of fruit, a great wine is the making and a long-term prospect.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – Wilyabrup – Buckshot Vineyard – 2017. Fragrant red berry and mint fruit that is refined, fine, elegant, and showing tremendous depth. Yet somehow, this manages to be restrained and tight. The finish is remarkably silky, supple, long and fine. In what was a tricky vintage for the region, the vineyard was intensely managed from bud burst to harvest, to produce an exceptional wine that may prove to be one of the best Cabernets to come out of Margaret River from the 2017 vintage.

Shottesbrooke – Winery in Focus – August 2016

Shottesbrooke – Winery in Focus – August 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th August 2018

Shottesbrooke hails from McLaren Vale and got underway with the establishment of the cellar door in 1994. Given the location, it is no surprise that there is a focus on Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet, complemented by aromatic white wines from the Adelaide Hills.

Winemaking is led by Hamish McGuire who took over as head winemaker in 2004. Hamish also happens to be the son in-law of founder Nick Holmes.

The wines are divided into a number of levels, starting with the Discovery Series, then ascending through the Estate, Single Vineyard and Reserve ranges. Complementing the core range are the 1337 and Expressions lines which include sparkling and fortified wines.

For me, the real interest is with the McLaren Vale reds. As might be expected, Shottesbrooke makes high quality Shiraz. The surprise for me was just how good the Cabernet-based wines are. Wines like the Punch Reserve have led me to reassess my preconceptions about the regions that the variety is suited to. Whilst it is a bigger style than Margaret River for example, with more obvious new oak, the wine remains balanced and age-worthy.

The pick of the range however, from a sheer deliciousness point of view, is the Single Vineyard Grenache. Fragrant and fine, a superb wine coming from 80 year old bush vines.

Reviewed

Shottesbrooke – Grenache – Single Vineyard – 2016 (18.4/20pts – $33). This took a day to really open up, but I was rewarded with fragrant plum, cherry and bright red berry fruit that was quite captivating. The palate has it all; Density, structure, slightly chewy tannins and persistent, high-quality fruit. Long, fine and silky, this is a treat now, but will also age well for 5 – 10 years. A beautiful wine.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Estate – 2012 (18/20pts – N/A). A delicious wine showing ripe fruit and hints of savoury complexity. The fresh acidity and fine tannins combine to make a great drinking wine. The length and complexity are noteworthy, but it is the delicious McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit that is the star.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Estate – 2015 (17.5/20 – $20). Mocha notes over ripe plum and red berry fruit. The palate is fresh and lively, with fine tannins and well-judged acidity adding life. The finish is quite chocolatey, with Middle Eastern spice notes building. Excellent fruit quality built in a medium bodied style that will be great drinking now with Moroccan food but really needs 5+ years to hit its peak (if the 2012 is any indication). Excellent Value.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Tom’s Block – Blewitt Springs – Single Vineyard – 2015 (18/20pts – $40). The pick of the current batch of Single Vineyards wines for me. The balance between ripe, elegant fruit and fine oak hits the sweet spot. The tannins are fine and supple, combining with the acid to keep the wine alive and fresh. Hints of sage on the finish make a lamb roast a great match. From a warmer year, fermented in and aged 16 months in older oak.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Eliza – Reserve – 2014 (18.5/20pts – $60). Superb fruit on the nose that is ripe, concentrated and dense. Think plum and red berry, with vanilla/cedary overtones from the oak. The palate is thick with fruit. Very deep and dense, the concentration of fruit is palpable. There is a fine, almost silky mid palate that leads to a long finish that is a little shy now, but perfectly balanced. An impressive wine that, whilst just starting to open up, needs 10+ years to shine. Fermented and aged in new oak .

Shottesbrooke – Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate – 2016 (17.5+/20pts – $20). Lithe and supple by comparison to its bigger siblings, this is a fruit-driven wine that is approachable, has bright acidity and decent length. With air, the sweet berry fruit really shines, making for a very enjoyable wine.

Shottesbrooke – Cabernet Sauvignon – McLaren Flat – Single Vineyard – 2012 (18/20pts – N/A). A savoury, spicy wine that is complex and intense. Chewy and textured, with menthol, sage and rosemary, with an almost gamey note. This is a big, powerful, dense wine for those looking for a hearty red. Age-worthy.

Shottesbrooke – Cabernet Sauvignon – Punch – Reserve – 2012 (18.5/20pts – $60). Lovely cassis and fresh berry fruit to open, with hints of sage, rosemary and mint chocolate. The depth and density of the fruit is impressive, as is the balance, with the finish remaining lithe and supple, despite the intensity of the fruit. Very long, the oak is apparent on the finish, but is well matched to the fruit. At 6 years of age, this is just starting to open up, but is still worthy of extended time in the cellar.

Shottesbrooke – The Proprietor – 2012 (18.3/20pts – $60). Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%) and Malbec (9%) aged in a blend of new and seasoned oak. Closed and subdued in comparison to the Punch, yet there is no doubting the quality of the fruit and winemaking. Somewhat of an iron fist in a velvet glove, this is fine and almost silky, yet there is brooding power to the fruit. Needs years to come around, but will be worth the wait.

St Mary’s Winery – New Release – August 2018

Barry Weinman: 12^th August 2018

For more than 100 years, Coonawarra has been famous for its red wines, particularly those made with Cabernet Sauvignon. The region is defined by the strip of Terra Rossa soil that sits over limestone.

Coonawarra lies within the broader Limestone Coast geographic region with the boundaries tightly defined in 2003 following a protracted battle by industry stalwarts on both sides of the boundary. A number of other sub regions sit within the Limestone Coast, including Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Mount Benson and Robe.

Sitting 15km West of Penola, St Mary’s vineyards do not sit in the Coonawarra sub-district of the Limestone Coast, but the vineyards have the same soil composition as its more illustrious neighbour. Like Coonawarra, the winery vineyards are capable of producing high quality red wines, including a surprisingly tasty Pinot Noir.

Reviewed

St Mary’s – Carillon – 2015 (18.3+/20pts – $40). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Lovely bright fruit that shows, mint, eucalypt, menthol and blackcurrant with even a hint of cassis. The fruit on the palate is mouth-filling and balanced, with fine tannins, racy acidity and excellent length. This is a delicious wine that can happily be drunk now, but would benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. Sealed with a good quality natural cork.

St Mary’s – Bells & Whistles – Red Blend – 2014 (17.5/20pts – $18). A great value blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Classic Coonawarra nose, with menthol, eucalypt and bright blueberry fruit. Continues on the palate, where the souring acidity takes hold, keeping the fruit in check. Bright and fruit driven, this is an affordable everyday red that will accompany food well.

Howard Park Scotsdale and Leston 2016

Barry Weinman: 4^th August 2018

I have written previously about just how good Cabernet can be from the Great Southern. Wines like the Jack Mann and Cherubino speak volumes about the potential.

Another fine producer of Great Southern Cabernet is Howard Park, with their flagship wine (The Abercrombie) having a significant proportion of fruit from the region.

So when the the2016 Shiraz and Cabernet from the Leston & Scotsdale ranges arrived, it was an excellent opportunity to sit back and look at how the regions differ.

At Howard Park, both the Leston Cabernet and Shiraz use fruit from Margaret River, whilst both Scotsdale wines are from the Great Southern.

As with previous vintages, what is most noticeable is how supple and fragrant the wines are from the Great Southern. These are seductive wines that are delicious now, but also eminently age-worthy, By comparison, both the Leston Shiraz and Cabernet are taut and restrained, needing years to show their best.

All four of the wines are excellent and ageworthy, so my suggestion is to drink the Scotsdales, whilst waiting for the Lestons to mature.

Also included in this tasting was the brilliant new Cellar Collection from 2016. This wine seems to combine the best of both regions, and at $35, seems like good value too.

Reviewed.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Scotsdale – 2016 (18.5/20 – $50). Sweet, fresh strawberry fruit that is seductive and ripe on the nose, with savoury undertones of cedar and spice. The palate is firm, yet balanced, with fine tannins that frame the plum and redcurrant fruit. Hints of liquorice on a supple, textured finish. Delicious!

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2016 (18/20pts – $50). Opens with blackcurrant and mint, with hints of chocolate and dark spices. The palate is tight, firm and age-worthy, yet the finish is near seamless. One for the cellar and likely to score higher points in the future.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Cellar Collection – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $35). Approachable, seductive fruit sets the scene, with a core of dark fruit and tannins that keep the mid palate in check and aid the overall balance. Aromas of mint, blueberry fruit and herbal notes add to the package. An extra half point for being absolutely delicious now, yet this would benefit from 5 years in the cellar.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $50). Impressive wine where everything is in balance. There is mint and eucalypt highlights to the bright berry fruit on both the nose and palate. It is the way that the palate comes together that is a stand out. The red fruits meld seamlessly with the fine oak and textural components from the mid-palate to the close. At the close, the tannins do shut down the fruit so give it at least 5 – 10 years to start to open up.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scotsdale – 2016 (18+/20pts – $50). Riper, more approachable than the Leston, with the fruit in the red berry spectrum. That said, this is a serious wine with fine oak and silky tannins supporting the fruit nobly. The finish is carried by the acid, allowing this wine to be enjoyed in its youth, but the patient will be rewarded with a splendid wine in 10+ years.

Paxton Wines Master Class 2018

Paxton Wines Master Class

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2018

Paxton Wines was established in McLaren Vale in 1979 by David Paxton, and (ironically for the region), focused on growing Chardonnay for a number of years before transitioning its focus to Shiraz.

Looking to improve the health of the vineyards, Paxton started the move to organic and biodynamic viticulture with the 50 acres of Quangdon Vineyard in 2004. Such were the immediate benefits in soil health that in 2005, the winery changed their entire operation of 200 hectares. Official certification was sought and achieved in 2011.

I am a big fan of organics, but on the topic of biodynamics I am less convinced as I do not really understand or indeed believe in a lot of the more spiritual aspects. Where I do get excited about biodynamics is that there is a strong focus on making the vineyards as healthy as possible using minimal interventions.

Paxton take a practical approach to biodynamics, adapting techniques to match the requirements of a modern winery. This is best demonstrated at harvest, where grapes are harvested when they reach optimal ripeness, regardless of whether it is a fruit/flower/root day etc. Making high quality wine is, after all, the primary focus of the winery and, from a logistical perspective, it would be near impossible to pick all the fruit in such compressed timelines.

Paxton now owns 7 vineyards in McLaren Vale, 6 of which focus on Shiraz. The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly the Elizabeth Jane vineyard, which was planted in the 1870s, and has undergone extensive rehabilitation in recent years.

Winemaker Richard Freebairn hails from Western Australia and has been in charge of winemaking at Paxton for the last four years.

Overall, the value offered is excellent and, f rom a quality versus value perspective, the Jones Block was the highlight for me!

N.B. All prices are RRP, though there are significant discounts available from the cellar door

Reviewed

Paxton – Guesser – White Blend – 2017 ($18). From a cooler year in McLaren Vale. A field blend of what is growing in the Thomas vineyard, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris: Stone fruit and tropical notes, with nice acid, mouth-feel and good length. A great value everyday drink this spring.

Paxton – Pinot Gris – 2018 ($22). Lemon, lime and floral notes on the nose. The palate is a textural treat, with a supple, creamy mouthfeel and just a touch of residual sugar to add balance. Good length, with fresh acidity to keep the finish fresh. Will be a delight with lemon-infused roast chicken.

Paxton – Chardonnay – Thomas Block – 2016 ($25). Thomas Block is a cooler vineyard that is up to 2 degrees cooler than the rest of the region. 40% of the fruit was pressed to barrel (small proportion new) with wild yeast fermentation. There was no inoculated for malolactic fermentation, but it is welcomed if it occurs spontaneously. The remaining 60% is fermented in tank for freshness, with a small amount of lees stirring to add depth. The wine shows pineapple fruit and bright acidity. Whilst not overly dense, it has decent complexity and length, with hints of cashew nut and creamy lees texture. An approachable Chardonnay that makes for good drinking.

Paxton – Rose – 2017 ($20). A Shiraz/Grenache blend that has a lovely salmon colour. Turkish delight aromatics, gentle red fruits, with just enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Uncomplicated, easy drinking, with a modest level of residual sugar adding texture/mouth-feel.

Paxton – Guesser – Red – 2016 ($18). A red blend. Juicy, succulent and vibrant, with soft tannins and accessible berry fruit. An easy drinking red that will keep the in-laws happy with a Sunday roast.

Paxton – Graciano – 2017 ($30). In McLaren Vale, Graciano needs a lot of management in the vineyard so as to keep the canopy up to protect the fruit. To manage yields, 50% of the crop is dropped green, to ensure the concentration of the finished wine. It has an unusual nose that is savoury and just a bit funky. The palate is textured and tight, with the fine acidity keeping everything in check. The winemaker suggests that this will age very well in the long term, but my preference would be to enjoy it with a hearty bowl of lamb ragout over the next few years.

Paxton – Shiraz – NOW – 2018 ($25). NOW = Natural Organic Wine. Despite the name natural, it is worth noting that this is clean and very well made. It is preservative-free and bottled early (May) to maintain the fruit. Vibrant, almost candied fruit on the nose leads to a palate that is a little shy to start. There is, however, a core of delicious ripe fruit that runs the length of the palate. Try with a pizza over the next year or two.

Paxton – Shiraz/Grenache – AAA – 2016 ($20). This is delicious. The vibrant Grenache fruit adds instant appeal, whilst the core of Shiraz adds structure. Cherry and plum fruit, with supple spice. Textured and chewy, with fine tannins and acid. Good now with food, but will really hit its straps with another 3-5 years in the bottle. A 65/35 blend that is primarily aged in older oak.

Paxton – Shiraz – MV – 2016 ($20). The MV in the title reflects the fact that this wine is from McLaren Vale, but also that it is multi vineyard. Souring berry fruit is the main focus here. The savoury finish is tight and linear, with good length and chewy, textural components. The oak (10% new) adds texture, but does not cloud the fruit. With air, the fruit opens up and gets quite lively. Excellent value drinking!

Paxton – Shiraz – Quandong Farm – 2015 ($30). Ripe black currant and plum fruit that is quite powerful. Ripe berry fruit the focus of the vibrant palate. Approachable and lovely drinking, with silky tannins. A touch of carbonic maceration adds vibrancy. 10 months in French oak (30% new). Interestingly, the oak has no toasting, as it is used primarily for texture.

Paxton – Shiraz – Jones Block – 2015 ($40). The Jones Block was planted in 1960s, and there is more density to the fruit than any of the previous wines. Powerful and ripe, with more obvious oak and with hints of vanilla and spice. An impressive wine that has some of the chocolate-berry fruit characters that I associate with McLaren Vale Shiraz. Fine tannins and oak add texture and complexity. The fruit is hand-picked, spends 18 months in oak (40% new/60% 2 y/o) which has had medium-toast and includes a small percentage of American oak.

Paxton – Elizabeth Jean – 2015 ($100). The Elizabeth Jean vineyard is part of the Thomas Block, and as befitting the special nature of the vineyard, the fruit is handpicked, hand plunged and pressed to French oak (50% new) to complete fermentation. This wine has a real “wow” factor. The increased concentration here is noticeable. Powerful, dense and intense, yet the finish is neither heavy nor cloying. The tannins are very fine and elegant, adding texture to the close. A superb wine that could be enjoyed anytime over the next 20 years+.