Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Winery in Focus: Sittella (Part One)

Barry Weinman: 10^th September 2018

The Berns Family started Sittella with the purchase of land in the Swan Valley in 1993 that now houses the winery and vineyards. They subsequently bought and sold (in 2003) a vineyard in Margaret River, before purchasing their definitive Margaret River vineyard in the Wilyabrup sub district in 2010. This is a mature vineyard planted on heavy loam/gravel soils.

The family recently purchased another 5 hectares adjacent to the Margaret River vineyard and are embarking on an impressive planting program. Impressive, not because of the size of the vineyard, but rather for the planning, care and expense that has gone into choosing the site, grape clones and trellising.

This attention to detail in the vineyard is replicated in all aspects of the winemaking process. Winemakers Colby Quirk (Senior Winemaker) and Uri Berns have a stated aim of producing the best Cabernet Sauvignon in Australia, and are leaving no stone unturned in their quest to improve on (the already high) standard that they have achieved with Cabernet and Chardonnay.

Their success has not happened overnight. As this tasting demonstrated, the winemaking team have been honing their skills and refining techniques over the 6 years that they have been working together. They have tweaked vine management and adjusting winemaking to allow the fruit quality to shine in the bottle.

From 2015, both the Chardonnay and Cabernet have moved to another level of refinement.

Given the passion and skills shown by the winemakers, along with a serious investment in the vineyards and winery, it is not surprising that the wines are very high quality. What really surprised was:

The wines are seriously cheap for the quality on offer
The sparkling wine program is, if anything, even more significant than that for the still wines.

I will write in more details about the sparkling program next week, as the quality/value on offer would be hard to beat anywhere in Australia. The sparkling wines really are that good! There are also other worthwhile wines in the range, including a delicious Swan Valley Verdelho and an unctuous PX (Pedro Ximenez), made from base material going back to 1998.

Reserve Chardonnay

The fruit for the reserve is sourced from 1.5 hectares from the Wilyabrup Vineyard. The vineyard is planted with Dijon 95/96 clones, which produces less of the pineapple characters associated with the Gin Gin clone that is ubiquitous across the region. Production is limited to 200 dozen/year.

There has been a clear evolution in style over the 5 vintages, with the oak becoming ever more refined and the fruit more complex. The oak regime is consistent, with 25% new each year. The aim is to use the best oak possible, with only subtle changes to the forest and level of toast over time.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2013. Complex, with powerful stone fruit on the nose, along with creamy notes from the lees work and oak. With passionfruit and hints of tropical fruit, this is a bigger style, with the ripe fruit balanced by toast notes. Textured, chewy and powerful, though the oak sits a touch prominently on the close.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2014. The depth and power are palpable, yet the balance and poise are noteworthy. This is supple and refined, with stone fruit characters over creamy winemaking inputs. The high-quality oak is finely meshed with the fruit adding to the mouth-feel and texture. Seamless, balanced, long and silky, the acid finish is a highlight. Wonderful drinking over the next few years.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2015. More restrained and taut, with the fruit tightly bound at present. An evolution in style, with the balance a highlight. Supple and textured, the subtle stone fruit, minerality and lemony acid leads to a very long. The result of perfectly ripe fruit combined with silky winemaking. Now – 2023.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2016. From a warm, dry year. Restrained, yet with latent power. The fruit and oak are in perfect harmony, yet the whole package is reserved and tight. Near seamless palate transition, with the oak adding depth, but no overt flavour. Supple, long and age worthy, this is not as intense as the 2017, but will be better drinking in the short term.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2017 ($31.50). From a very cool year, with fruit that was in perfect condition when harvested. Fresh, powerful and zesty, this is all potential right now. The fruit is dense and ripe, though tightly bound and shy. The palate is supple, balanced and very long. Subtle pineapple and lemon, along with the trademark white peach fruit. Tightly coiled and powerful, there are hints of spice, citrus and minerality to close. Needs years, but a great wine already.

Cabernet Sauvignon

The stated aim of the winemakers is to make the best Cabernet based wine from Western Australia (and Australia). To this end, there has been a huge time investment in the vineyard, with every aspect of production carefully managed to ensure that the absolute best fruit is produced.

This attention to detail has been clearly carried through to the winery as well. The oak is the best available, with 40% new each vintage. The current vintage is 2015 and only 150 dozen are produced each year.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – 2012. Pristine fruit that is just starting to show some development, but this is still fresh and youthful. There is a generosity to the fruit that is captivating, with the fine balance and structure framing the fruit perfectly. Very long and fine, the red berry fruit is supple and succulent and there are hints of mint to close. A great drinking red that will also live for a decade or more.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – 2014. A touch more herbal, but still ripe and supple. This is quite tight and needs years to hit its peak. The fruit is complemented by silky tannins that add a little grip on the back palate, with supple oak and fine, tight acidity. A superb wine in the cooler spectrum that will live for 2 decades or more.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – 2015. ($52). An amalgam of fruit and savoury characters, with brilliant red berry/cherry fruit, hints of cassis and mint and very fine, texturing tannins. Superbly made, and worthy of extended time in the cellar. Gets a little chewy to close, so give it 10 years to really start to open up. A great wine!

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2016. Harks back to the 2012, with brilliant ripe fruit, but the structural components are, if anything, turned up a notch here. Chewy, texture, and long. The perfectly ripe fruit is poised and balanced. Near seamless and with great density of fruit, a great wine is the making and a long-term prospect.

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Berns Reserve – Wilyabrup – Buckshot Vineyard – 2017. Fragrant red berry and mint fruit that is refined, fine, elegant, and showing tremendous depth. Yet somehow, this manages to be restrained and tight. The finish is remarkably silky, supple, long and fine. In what was a tricky vintage for the region, the vineyard was intensely managed from bud burst to harvest, to produce an exceptional wine that may prove to be one of the best Cabernets to come out of Margaret River from the 2017 vintage.

Shottesbrooke – Winery in Focus – August 2016

Shottesbrooke – Winery in Focus – August 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th August 2018

Shottesbrooke hails from McLaren Vale and got underway with the establishment of the cellar door in 1994. Given the location, it is no surprise that there is a focus on Shiraz, Grenache and Cabernet, complemented by aromatic white wines from the Adelaide Hills.

Winemaking is led by Hamish McGuire who took over as head winemaker in 2004. Hamish also happens to be the son in-law of founder Nick Holmes.

The wines are divided into a number of levels, starting with the Discovery Series, then ascending through the Estate, Single Vineyard and Reserve ranges. Complementing the core range are the 1337 and Expressions lines which include sparkling and fortified wines.

For me, the real interest is with the McLaren Vale reds. As might be expected, Shottesbrooke makes high quality Shiraz. The surprise for me was just how good the Cabernet-based wines are. Wines like the Punch Reserve have led me to reassess my preconceptions about the regions that the variety is suited to. Whilst it is a bigger style than Margaret River for example, with more obvious new oak, the wine remains balanced and age-worthy.

The pick of the range however, from a sheer deliciousness point of view, is the Single Vineyard Grenache. Fragrant and fine, a superb wine coming from 80 year old bush vines.

Reviewed

Shottesbrooke – Grenache – Single Vineyard – 2016 (18.4/20pts – $33). This took a day to really open up, but I was rewarded with fragrant plum, cherry and bright red berry fruit that was quite captivating. The palate has it all; Density, structure, slightly chewy tannins and persistent, high-quality fruit. Long, fine and silky, this is a treat now, but will also age well for 5 – 10 years. A beautiful wine.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Estate – 2012 (18/20pts – N/A). A delicious wine showing ripe fruit and hints of savoury complexity. The fresh acidity and fine tannins combine to make a great drinking wine. The length and complexity are noteworthy, but it is the delicious McLaren Vale Shiraz fruit that is the star.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Estate – 2015 (17.5/20 – $20). Mocha notes over ripe plum and red berry fruit. The palate is fresh and lively, with fine tannins and well-judged acidity adding life. The finish is quite chocolatey, with Middle Eastern spice notes building. Excellent fruit quality built in a medium bodied style that will be great drinking now with Moroccan food but really needs 5+ years to hit its peak (if the 2012 is any indication). Excellent Value.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Tom’s Block – Blewitt Springs – Single Vineyard – 2015 (18/20pts – $40). The pick of the current batch of Single Vineyards wines for me. The balance between ripe, elegant fruit and fine oak hits the sweet spot. The tannins are fine and supple, combining with the acid to keep the wine alive and fresh. Hints of sage on the finish make a lamb roast a great match. From a warmer year, fermented in and aged 16 months in older oak.

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Eliza – Reserve – 2014 (18.5/20pts – $60). Superb fruit on the nose that is ripe, concentrated and dense. Think plum and red berry, with vanilla/cedary overtones from the oak. The palate is thick with fruit. Very deep and dense, the concentration of fruit is palpable. There is a fine, almost silky mid palate that leads to a long finish that is a little shy now, but perfectly balanced. An impressive wine that, whilst just starting to open up, needs 10+ years to shine. Fermented and aged in new oak .

Shottesbrooke – Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate – 2016 (17.5+/20pts – $20). Lithe and supple by comparison to its bigger siblings, this is a fruit-driven wine that is approachable, has bright acidity and decent length. With air, the sweet berry fruit really shines, making for a very enjoyable wine.

Shottesbrooke – Cabernet Sauvignon – McLaren Flat – Single Vineyard – 2012 (18/20pts – N/A). A savoury, spicy wine that is complex and intense. Chewy and textured, with menthol, sage and rosemary, with an almost gamey note. This is a big, powerful, dense wine for those looking for a hearty red. Age-worthy.

Shottesbrooke – Cabernet Sauvignon – Punch – Reserve – 2012 (18.5/20pts – $60). Lovely cassis and fresh berry fruit to open, with hints of sage, rosemary and mint chocolate. The depth and density of the fruit is impressive, as is the balance, with the finish remaining lithe and supple, despite the intensity of the fruit. Very long, the oak is apparent on the finish, but is well matched to the fruit. At 6 years of age, this is just starting to open up, but is still worthy of extended time in the cellar.

Shottesbrooke – The Proprietor – 2012 (18.3/20pts – $60). Cabernet Sauvignon (49%), Merlot (42%) and Malbec (9%) aged in a blend of new and seasoned oak. Closed and subdued in comparison to the Punch, yet there is no doubting the quality of the fruit and winemaking. Somewhat of an iron fist in a velvet glove, this is fine and almost silky, yet there is brooding power to the fruit. Needs years to come around, but will be worth the wait.

St Mary’s Winery – New Release – August 2018

Barry Weinman: 12^th August 2018

For more than 100 years, Coonawarra has been famous for its red wines, particularly those made with Cabernet Sauvignon. The region is defined by the strip of Terra Rossa soil that sits over limestone.

Coonawarra lies within the broader Limestone Coast geographic region with the boundaries tightly defined in 2003 following a protracted battle by industry stalwarts on both sides of the boundary. A number of other sub regions sit within the Limestone Coast, including Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Mount Benson and Robe.

Sitting 15km West of Penola, St Mary’s vineyards do not sit in the Coonawarra sub-district of the Limestone Coast, but the vineyards have the same soil composition as its more illustrious neighbour. Like Coonawarra, the winery vineyards are capable of producing high quality red wines, including a surprisingly tasty Pinot Noir.

Reviewed

St Mary’s – Carillon – 2015 (18.3+/20pts – $40). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Lovely bright fruit that shows, mint, eucalypt, menthol and blackcurrant with even a hint of cassis. The fruit on the palate is mouth-filling and balanced, with fine tannins, racy acidity and excellent length. This is a delicious wine that can happily be drunk now, but would benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. Sealed with a good quality natural cork.

St Mary’s – Bells & Whistles – Red Blend – 2014 (17.5/20pts – $18). A great value blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Classic Coonawarra nose, with menthol, eucalypt and bright blueberry fruit. Continues on the palate, where the souring acidity takes hold, keeping the fruit in check. Bright and fruit driven, this is an affordable everyday red that will accompany food well.

Howard Park Scotsdale and Leston 2016

Barry Weinman: 4^th August 2018

I have written previously about just how good Cabernet can be from the Great Southern. Wines like the Jack Mann and Cherubino speak volumes about the potential.

Another fine producer of Great Southern Cabernet is Howard Park, with their flagship wine (The Abercrombie) having a significant proportion of fruit from the region.

So when the the2016 Shiraz and Cabernet from the Leston & Scotsdale ranges arrived, it was an excellent opportunity to sit back and look at how the regions differ.

At Howard Park, both the Leston Cabernet and Shiraz use fruit from Margaret River, whilst both Scotsdale wines are from the Great Southern.

As with previous vintages, what is most noticeable is how supple and fragrant the wines are from the Great Southern. These are seductive wines that are delicious now, but also eminently age-worthy, By comparison, both the Leston Shiraz and Cabernet are taut and restrained, needing years to show their best.

All four of the wines are excellent and ageworthy, so my suggestion is to drink the Scotsdales, whilst waiting for the Lestons to mature.

Also included in this tasting was the brilliant new Cellar Collection from 2016. This wine seems to combine the best of both regions, and at $35, seems like good value too.

Reviewed.

Howard Park – Shiraz – Scotsdale – 2016 (18.5/20 – $50). Sweet, fresh strawberry fruit that is seductive and ripe on the nose, with savoury undertones of cedar and spice. The palate is firm, yet balanced, with fine tannins that frame the plum and redcurrant fruit. Hints of liquorice on a supple, textured finish. Delicious!

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2016 (18/20pts – $50). Opens with blackcurrant and mint, with hints of chocolate and dark spices. The palate is tight, firm and age-worthy, yet the finish is near seamless. One for the cellar and likely to score higher points in the future.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Cellar Collection – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $35). Approachable, seductive fruit sets the scene, with a core of dark fruit and tannins that keep the mid palate in check and aid the overall balance. Aromas of mint, blueberry fruit and herbal notes add to the package. An extra half point for being absolutely delicious now, yet this would benefit from 5 years in the cellar.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $50). Impressive wine where everything is in balance. There is mint and eucalypt highlights to the bright berry fruit on both the nose and palate. It is the way that the palate comes together that is a stand out. The red fruits meld seamlessly with the fine oak and textural components from the mid-palate to the close. At the close, the tannins do shut down the fruit so give it at least 5 – 10 years to start to open up.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scotsdale – 2016 (18+/20pts – $50). Riper, more approachable than the Leston, with the fruit in the red berry spectrum. That said, this is a serious wine with fine oak and silky tannins supporting the fruit nobly. The finish is carried by the acid, allowing this wine to be enjoyed in its youth, but the patient will be rewarded with a splendid wine in 10+ years.

Paxton Wines Master Class 2018

Paxton Wines Master Class

Barry Weinman: 24^th July 2018

Paxton Wines was established in McLaren Vale in 1979 by David Paxton, and (ironically for the region), focused on growing Chardonnay for a number of years before transitioning its focus to Shiraz.

Looking to improve the health of the vineyards, Paxton started the move to organic and biodynamic viticulture with the 50 acres of Quangdon Vineyard in 2004. Such were the immediate benefits in soil health that in 2005, the winery changed their entire operation of 200 hectares. Official certification was sought and achieved in 2011.

I am a big fan of organics, but on the topic of biodynamics I am less convinced as I do not really understand or indeed believe in a lot of the more spiritual aspects. Where I do get excited about biodynamics is that there is a strong focus on making the vineyards as healthy as possible using minimal interventions.

Paxton take a practical approach to biodynamics, adapting techniques to match the requirements of a modern winery. This is best demonstrated at harvest, where grapes are harvested when they reach optimal ripeness, regardless of whether it is a fruit/flower/root day etc. Making high quality wine is, after all, the primary focus of the winery and, from a logistical perspective, it would be near impossible to pick all the fruit in such compressed timelines.

Paxton now owns 7 vineyards in McLaren Vale, 6 of which focus on Shiraz. The jewel in the crown is undoubtedly the Elizabeth Jane vineyard, which was planted in the 1870s, and has undergone extensive rehabilitation in recent years.

Winemaker Richard Freebairn hails from Western Australia and has been in charge of winemaking at Paxton for the last four years.

Overall, the value offered is excellent and, f rom a quality versus value perspective, the Jones Block was the highlight for me!

N.B. All prices are RRP, though there are significant discounts available from the cellar door

Reviewed

Paxton – Guesser – White Blend – 2017 ($18). From a cooler year in McLaren Vale. A field blend of what is growing in the Thomas vineyard, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris: Stone fruit and tropical notes, with nice acid, mouth-feel and good length. A great value everyday drink this spring.

Paxton – Pinot Gris – 2018 ($22). Lemon, lime and floral notes on the nose. The palate is a textural treat, with a supple, creamy mouthfeel and just a touch of residual sugar to add balance. Good length, with fresh acidity to keep the finish fresh. Will be a delight with lemon-infused roast chicken.

Paxton – Chardonnay – Thomas Block – 2016 ($25). Thomas Block is a cooler vineyard that is up to 2 degrees cooler than the rest of the region. 40% of the fruit was pressed to barrel (small proportion new) with wild yeast fermentation. There was no inoculated for malolactic fermentation, but it is welcomed if it occurs spontaneously. The remaining 60% is fermented in tank for freshness, with a small amount of lees stirring to add depth. The wine shows pineapple fruit and bright acidity. Whilst not overly dense, it has decent complexity and length, with hints of cashew nut and creamy lees texture. An approachable Chardonnay that makes for good drinking.

Paxton – Rose – 2017 ($20). A Shiraz/Grenache blend that has a lovely salmon colour. Turkish delight aromatics, gentle red fruits, with just enough acidity to keep the palate fresh. Uncomplicated, easy drinking, with a modest level of residual sugar adding texture/mouth-feel.

Paxton – Guesser – Red – 2016 ($18). A red blend. Juicy, succulent and vibrant, with soft tannins and accessible berry fruit. An easy drinking red that will keep the in-laws happy with a Sunday roast.

Paxton – Graciano – 2017 ($30). In McLaren Vale, Graciano needs a lot of management in the vineyard so as to keep the canopy up to protect the fruit. To manage yields, 50% of the crop is dropped green, to ensure the concentration of the finished wine. It has an unusual nose that is savoury and just a bit funky. The palate is textured and tight, with the fine acidity keeping everything in check. The winemaker suggests that this will age very well in the long term, but my preference would be to enjoy it with a hearty bowl of lamb ragout over the next few years.

Paxton – Shiraz – NOW – 2018 ($25). NOW = Natural Organic Wine. Despite the name natural, it is worth noting that this is clean and very well made. It is preservative-free and bottled early (May) to maintain the fruit. Vibrant, almost candied fruit on the nose leads to a palate that is a little shy to start. There is, however, a core of delicious ripe fruit that runs the length of the palate. Try with a pizza over the next year or two.

Paxton – Shiraz/Grenache – AAA – 2016 ($20). This is delicious. The vibrant Grenache fruit adds instant appeal, whilst the core of Shiraz adds structure. Cherry and plum fruit, with supple spice. Textured and chewy, with fine tannins and acid. Good now with food, but will really hit its straps with another 3-5 years in the bottle. A 65/35 blend that is primarily aged in older oak.

Paxton – Shiraz – MV – 2016 ($20). The MV in the title reflects the fact that this wine is from McLaren Vale, but also that it is multi vineyard. Souring berry fruit is the main focus here. The savoury finish is tight and linear, with good length and chewy, textural components. The oak (10% new) adds texture, but does not cloud the fruit. With air, the fruit opens up and gets quite lively. Excellent value drinking!

Paxton – Shiraz – Quandong Farm – 2015 ($30). Ripe black currant and plum fruit that is quite powerful. Ripe berry fruit the focus of the vibrant palate. Approachable and lovely drinking, with silky tannins. A touch of carbonic maceration adds vibrancy. 10 months in French oak (30% new). Interestingly, the oak has no toasting, as it is used primarily for texture.

Paxton – Shiraz – Jones Block – 2015 ($40). The Jones Block was planted in 1960s, and there is more density to the fruit than any of the previous wines. Powerful and ripe, with more obvious oak and with hints of vanilla and spice. An impressive wine that has some of the chocolate-berry fruit characters that I associate with McLaren Vale Shiraz. Fine tannins and oak add texture and complexity. The fruit is hand-picked, spends 18 months in oak (40% new/60% 2 y/o) which has had medium-toast and includes a small percentage of American oak.

Paxton – Elizabeth Jean – 2015 ($100). The Elizabeth Jean vineyard is part of the Thomas Block, and as befitting the special nature of the vineyard, the fruit is handpicked, hand plunged and pressed to French oak (50% new) to complete fermentation. This wine has a real “wow” factor. The increased concentration here is noticeable. Powerful, dense and intense, yet the finish is neither heavy nor cloying. The tannins are very fine and elegant, adding texture to the close. A superb wine that could be enjoyed anytime over the next 20 years+.

Margaret River Cabernet Masterclass

Barry Weinman: 23^rd June 2018

Margaret River has been blessed with a succession of good to very good vintages from 2007 to 2011. If anything however, the years from 2012 to 2016 were even better, with many wineries claiming to have made their best ever wines from these years. 2014 probably garnered the most praise, yet some winemakers are claiming their 2015 and 2016 vintage wines are even better.

When it comes to selecting a dozen or so of the state’s best Cabernets to put into a tasting like this, we are blessed for choice, with several well-established wineries producing some of the best Cabernet-based wines in Australia (and, perhaps, the world). There is also a new breed of wineries that are producing great wines, making the choice even more difficult.

So the selection below is not a definitive list of WA’s finest. For example Howard Park’s Abercrombie had every right to be here. All wines reviewed however, clearly deserve their place on the list.

The tasting served to highlight both the tremendous quality and the value that Western Australian Cabernet can offer, when viewed on the world stage. With the best examples from France and the USA costing upwards of $1000 per bottle, most of these wines are cheap by comparison (at $500, the exception is Cullen’s Vanya).

The real value starts with the Jack Mann (equal top wine) at around $100, and the wines selling for less than $100 must surely be considered bargains! For me the greatest value was offered by:

Evans & Tate Redbrook: $40 (2013 vintage currently available from the winery)
Deep Woods Reserve: $65 (2015 vintage currently available from the winery)
Leeuwin Estate Art Series: $69 (2014 available from the winery)
Cape Mentelle: $80 (small quantity of 2014 available from Lamont’s)
Cherubino Frankand River: $83 (2015 available from the winery)
Houghton Jack Mann: $100 (though can be picked up cheaper)

A special thanks to the team at Lamont’s Cottesloe for hosting this tasting!

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.6/20pts – $80). Dark and brooding, this is somewhat of a beast right now. The palate has chewy fine tannins, is textured, long, and has a defined minerality to the acid driven finish. The fruit really needs time to fully express itself making this wine a 20+ year proposition. Will get higher points in time.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014. (18.8/20pts – $83). This wine possesses a degree of minerality that is not often seen in Australian Cabernet. Very long and fine, with the fruit persisting to the close. There is great depth to the fruit and a balance that few in this line-up could match. A charming wine that will be at its best with a great steak if served now, but will continue to improve for two or even three decades.

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2015 (18.7/20pts – $500). Closed and subdued, this is firm and unyielding, yet remarkably, presents with a near seamless palate transition. Long and fine, but needing years for the fruit to emerge and show of its beauty. Brilliant, but be patient!

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.8/20pts – $65). Supple blackcurrant and cherry fruit, with hints of spice and a savoury lift from the oak. The palate is refined, balanced and very long. The fruit lingers, eventually giving way to fine tannins that build on the finish. Tasting this superb wine was a near religious experience!

Evans & Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2013 (18.7/20pts – $40). This is a powerful, yet compact wine of great merit. There is seductive blueberry fruit, with menthol and a touch of eucalypt adding interest. The fine grained tannins support the fruit beautifully, with blueberry and spice the main features on the palate. Ripe and focussed, this wonderful wine has great length of flavours. Showing the first signs of development, this wine continued to improve in the glass for some time and is great drinking now (or in 10 years). Unbelievable value for money!

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Jack Mann – 2015 (19/20pts – $100). Brilliant colour. This wine shows everything good about Cabernet. Great quality fruit, with blueberry, spice, blackcurrant and a hint of eucalypt married to fine grained cedary oak. The tannins are a treat to behold, as they add texture and depth, without detracting from the fruit in the slightest. A truly effortless wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, or any time over the next 20 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2014 (18.8/20pts – $69). Wonderful wine! Silky red fruit is paired to an almost earthy, textural palate, making for a powerful and impactful wine. Mulberry and spice notes abound, with the fragrant fruit really building with air. Hints of cassis, minerals, and fine tannins carry the palate to a very long close.

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2015 (18.6+) A crackingly good wine, with bright, succulent fruit married to souring acidity and fine tannins. Approachable and easy to drink, as the tannins are so very fine, yet this will also develop more depth with time in the cellar. Subtle and elegant, the supple palate has great length.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tom Cullity – 2013. (18.8/20pts – N/A). The perfumed violet aromas are a highlight, though there is a degree of restraint to this wine at present. The palate combines berry fruit with spice, cedar and a touch of vanilla/coffee notes to close. The mouth-feel is amazingly supple and silky, with no rough edges on the very long finish. Great wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Tom Cullity – 2014 (18.9/20pts – $160). Fresher, tighter and more restrained than the 2013, with prodigious yet fine tannins and ripe black fruits on the palate. This is powerful and intense, but needs years to come around. Really blossomed after an hour in the glass, but is a 20 year+ proposition. Magnificent.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Matthew – 2014 (19/20pts – $150). Blueberry, redcurrant, violets and gentle spice on the nose. This is quite a contrast to the 2014 Tom Cullity, with an explosion of bright red fruits on a palate that is long, silky and deliciously supple, though it does get quite grippy with air. Excellent oak use supports the fruit perfectly. Whilst this is approachable now, this is a 10-20 year proposition.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Russel – 2015 (18.8/20pts – $150). The brilliant ripe fruit is fragrant and supple. There is also an amalgam of savoury notes that add depth, texture and interest. Coffee, cedar and cinnamon all come to mind. The palate is finely textured, with the silky tannins and great depth to the fruit. One of the best drinking wines in the tasting, but also capable of extended aging.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Clementine Eloise – 2016 (18.9/20pts – TBC). Pre-release sample. Remarkable poise for such a young wine. Refined balanced and oozing elegance, the pretty, ripe fruit has been skillfully handled, with the supple oak adding depth and texture. Long, supple and seamless, with blueberry fruit and a touch of menthol. A totally delicious wine that has the depth to age well for a decade or more.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2014 (18.7/20pts). Juicy redcurrant and plum fruit over menthol and herbal notes here, reminding me of Coonawarra. The palate is very long, with the fruit the main focus. The oak tucked away nicely, adding textural notes on the close. Not as big as some here, but there is great quality fruit and wine-making on show. Can be drunk now with pleasure, but also very age-worthy. Brilliant!

New Release Tasting – June 2018

Barry Weinman: 16 ^th June 2018

This week’s panel tastings combined brackets of traditional varieties, as well as a selection of alternative varieties that generated a lot of discussion among the panel.

The wines reviewed are all about value, and include a smartly packaged GSM from Angove, as well as a couple of interesting reds from Patritti that are not only great drinking, they are well packaged and very affordable.

Reviewed

Patritti – Vermentino – 2017 (17.5/20pts – $18). A real surprise package, with pretty fruit that is floral and almost perfumed, with musk and tropical fruit notes. The palate is zesty and light, with excellent texture and just a touch of residual sugar to add balance and flesh out the mid palate. An excellent drink for a sunny afternoon with friends, and worked a treat with lemon infused roast chicken.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Davey Estate – 2016 (17.7/20pts – $25). The purple colour is striking. Initially quite closed, but with air, the ripe berry fruit can be coaxed from the glass. The palate is structured, textured and long, with fine tannins cloaking the dense fruit. Gets savoury and chewy to close. A smart wine that will be a treat with rustic food this winter, or given 5 – 10 years in the cellar.Angove – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Family Crest – 2017 (17.9/20pts – $22). The rich red berry fruit was a little subdued initially, but this blossomed after a couple of days in the bottle! The dense, ripe fruit is textured and long, with mid-palate minerality, bright acidity and supple oak adding depth. A powerful wine that could be enjoyed with a hearty steak now, but would be best with 10 years in the cellar.

Patritti – Saperavi – 2011 (N/R). When the 2014 and 2015 samples arrived, I thought it a good idea to open a 2011 from the cellar to see how it was developing. Lovely nose where the ripe fruit is perfectly matched to the more savoury characters. Aromas are an amalgam of berry, plum and cherry, with perfumed rose blossom highlights. The palate is initially more savoury, with souring acidity and fine tannins keeping the fruit in check. There is real depth to the palate, but this needs more time.

Patritti – Saperavi – 2014. Unfortunately affected by cork taint. Patritti – Saperavi – 2015 (17.5/20pts – $22). Saperavi is a traditional Georgian variety that was planted by Patritti after a visiting winemaker shared a bottle with the family. Lovely ripe fruit that is at once pretty and refined, yet there is density and weight underpinning the fruit. The palate is lighter than the 2011, and more approachable as a result. Decent length and mouthfeel to close, with a hint of liquorice. Would be brilliant with home-made pizza, but also with a few years in the cellar.

Chardonnay New Release – May 2018

Barry Weinman: 25^th May 2018

With the cooler weather on the way, Chardonnay really comes into its own. The trick for me though, is not to serve high quality examples too cold. This is especially true of the modern, leaner styles. Served too cold, all of the fruit is lost whilst the acid is accentuated.

My cellar is set to 18 degrees, and just an hour or so in the fridge before serving is perfect, though even cellar temperature is fine. In fact, the tasting panel reviews all Chardonnays at room temperature, as this give the best chance for the wines to shine in their youth.

In this tasting, the two cheaper Chardonnays from Howard Park provided an interesting contrast. The Miamup (Margaret River fruit) was tighter and more restrained, whilst the Flint Rock (Mount Barker) was a touch more generous and approachable. Both, though, are excellent examples.

The other wine to feature from Howard Park was the 2017 Chardonnay. This is the first vintage of this wine to be labelled Margaret River. The wine started out as Great Southern, and has gradually transitioned over a number of years, as their Margaret River vineyards have matured.

A highlight was the wine from Angove. Who would have thought that McLaren Vale could produce a wine of such finesse?

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – The Vivianne – 2015 (18.5+/20pts – $80). A richer, more powerful style compared to many others in the tasting. Wonderful nose that is complex and complete, with cashew nut, spice, subtle creamy oak and refined stonefruit/pineapple melding seamlessly. The refinement is really evident on the palate, with the creamy textural notes setting the stage for the fruit to shine. Very long, the winemaking inputs and vanillin oak add depth. A superb wine now – 5 years. (From Denmark, the grapes for this wine were harvested over a four week period, and underwent wild yeast barrel fermentation and lees aging.)

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $58). Quite a modern, subtle style, yet there is great depth to the fruit, and it just needs a few years to open up. Minerality, stone fruit, nutty texture and lime acidity are all in the mix, whilst the very fine texture and length of the palate are a highlight. For the first time in this wine’s history, it is labelled as Margaret River.

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – 2017 (18.3/20pts – $73). Ripe pineapple and stonefruit notes (from Mendoza clone grapes), with a core of minerality that adds depth. Fine fruit and supple winemaking leads to a finish that is textured and very long. There is near seamless palate transition, though the high quality oak is still settling into the fruit. Would be brilliant now with oysters or ceviche, but time in the botte will see this blossom (and score higher points). 60% Porongurup & 40% Mount Barker fruit.

Marchand & Burch – Chardonnay – Villages – 2017 (18/20pts – $37). From the Mount Barrow Vineyard in Mount Barker. Whilst there are attractive citrus and white peach aromas, this wine is all about the texture and mouthfeel. From start to finish, the wine is near seamless. Long, supple, and balanced, the fruit, winemaking inputs and oak are completely integrated and in harmony. It lacks the ultimate depth of its big brother but is excellent drinking now, or over the next 2 – 3 years.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2017 (17.5/20 pts – $28). From Mount Barker. Perfumed stonefruit, citrus and tropical notes on the nose. The palate is where this wine shines, with the ripe peachy fruit balanced by a core of pineapple-like acidity that gives the palate a zesty lift. After spending 10 months on lees, this is a little richer than the Miamup, and more approachable as a result.

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Miamup – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $28). From Margaret River, this is subtle and refined, with creamy fruit, lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit acidity. It has a well-balanced palate, with a finish that is long and fairly tight, in the modern style. A couple of years in the cellar should see this flesh out a little, or try it with a simple quiche now.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Gin Gin – Wilyabrup – 2017 (18.5/20pts – $39). Gin Gin refers to the clone of Chardonnay rather than the town north of Perth. The refinement here is a treat. High quality fruit in the nectarine and white peach spectrum, with subtle winemaking inputs, make for a wine that is superb drinking. The subtle palate builds depth over time, showing great balance and power.

Angove – Chardonnay – McLaren Vale – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $22). From 30 year old vines and treated to barrel fermentation and lees aging which add textural components. Minerals, grapefruit and masses of pretty peach fruit lead to a refined palate, with good texture and length. A smart, modern wine that demonstrates that McLaren Vale is not just about ripe, generous reds.

Imported Wines: Italy and Spain

Barry Weinman: 13^th May 2018

For those of us who have grown up in Australia, we are used to clean, bright wines where the fruit is allowed to sparkle. When reviewing a line-up of imported wines, the challenge is that the wines can be made in a number of ways.

We tend to struggle with those wines made in a rustic, old-fashioned way, as the fruit is often dulled, whilst oxidative characters come to the fore. As a result, only a few of the wines tasted for this review actually made it to these pages.

The good news is that those that did are all worth trying and cover a variety of styles.

Reviewed

Terre di Terrossa – Pinot Grigio – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $20). Quite floral and aromatic. The palate is nicely textured, and has good length. Some ripe peach fruit, a touch of honey and zesty acidity to close. Fresh and zippy, this is a compelling drink on its own, but would also accompany food well.

Palladino – Arneis – Roero – 2016 (17/20pts – $35). Clearly European, with a core of minerality and savoury fruit on the nose. On the palate, this is a drier, leaner style with apricot kernel and a touch of minerality leading to a neutral finish. Will be at its best with food.

Vega di Princesa – Albarino – 2016 (17/20pts – $29). More depth than others in this tasting, and actually quite good. Textured, with a touch of viscosity, the honey and strawberry fruit is balanced by long, vibrant acidity. A refreshing, versatile wine from Rias Baixas in Spain.

Begali – Valpolicella – Ripasso – Classico Superiore – 2015 (17.3/20pts – $33). The nose is subdued, but the palate has vibrant fruit with a savoury edge. Good length and mouthfeel, the textural components are a highlight. Souring cherry fruit and a touch of spice and tar add depth. Grippy tannins a plus with foods such as Prosciutto and other cured meats.

Selvapiana – Chianti Rufina – 2015 (17.5/20pts – $29). I like this. The fruit is ripe, yet there is a savoury core that runs the length of the palate. Fine, drying tannins, older oak, the texture gets a little chewy to close. Would be great now with roast lamb or a spicy Chorizo (perhaps a hint of Brett here, but it works for me). Querceto Di Castellina – Chianti Classico – L’Aura 2013 (17.7/20pts – $38). The ripe fruit here will suit many Australian palates, as will the dollop of new oak sitting behind the fruit. A wine that can be drunk now with pleasure, but really needs 10 years to open up.

New Release Reds: April 2018

Barry Weinman: 22^nd April 2018

This week’s new release tasting resulted in only three recommendations, but all are very worthwhile.

Regular readers will know that I am a big fan of Singlefile. Their mainstream wines offer brilliant quality at very reasonable prices. The 2016 Shiraz is no exception. A cellar-worthy wine that took two days to really reach its peak.

I was interested to see Langton’s auctioning a quantity of the 2014 Jones Block Shiraz from Paxton. This is a wine that even at its retail price of $40 offers fair value. That it can be bought at auction for under $25 (all fees included) makes it somewhat of a bargain. (It is also good buying from the cellar door at $30).

Reviewed

Snowball – Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – 2010. (17.7/20pts). Plum, mint and ripe berry fruit shine on the nose. The palate is long and supple, with dusty tannins and supple oak. The fine acidity adds to the texture and balance. At 8 years of age, this is excellent drinking over the next 3 – 5 years.

Singlefile – Shiraz – 2016 (18+/20pts – $37). A wine of class and distinction that has both grace and presence. Cooler climate fruit showing cherry/berry fruit combined with souring plum acidity. Long and supple, the dense fruit is finely structured and restrained. Just a baby, this needs years to reach its peak.

Paxton – Shiraz – Jones Block – 2014 (18/20pts – $40). This wine has a wow factor. Ripe plum and liquorice, with hints of tar and spice. The palate is rounded, yet focused, with the savoury oak adding depth and texture to the core of lovely fruit. The tannins are fine, but noticeable, so time in the cellar will be rewarded.