Pinot Noir remains the holy grail for many wine drinkers. At
its best, the grape is capable of producing wines of extraordinary beauty and complexity.
All too often, however, events in the vineyard (and winery) conspire to make
less than exciting wines.
In this tasting, for example, of the 16 wines reviewed only
two made it to this review. Fortunately, the two that made it are both cracking
wines. Different in style to each other, but both delicious examples of
Australian Pinot Noir.
Reviewed
Pooley – Pinot
Noir – 2017 (18/20pts – $45). Perfumed and lifted fruit on the nose leads onto
a palate that has sweet cherry and berry fruit, with just a hint of fresh plum
and spice. This is quite rich and opulent, in a most attractive way. On the
finish, the fruit flavours linger and are framed by fine acidity and tannins.
Great drinking now with food. From
Tasmania
Mac Forbes –
Pinot Noir – Yarra Valley – 2018
(18/20pts – $33). Whilst the single vineyard wines from Mac Forbes tend to
steal the limelight, it was the entry-level Yarra Valley Pinot Noir that got
the panel the most excited, due to the value that it offers. Initially a little
shy, but there is really good fruit on show. Builds depth with air, the fruit becoming
very attractive and fragrant. The palate is a little lean and sinewy to start,
but again hits its straps with air. Good value.
There has been much written about Australian Chardonnays
over the years, documenting the changing styles and fashions. In the 1990s the
trend was for big, ripe, buttery Chardonnays, with plenty of oak. This evolved
over the 2000s, with the fruit richness and oak flavours gradually being wound
back.
Around 2010, the pendulum moved to the other end of the
spectrum. Led by key wine critics and winemakers (particularly in Victoria),
the trend was for high acid, early-picked examples, where the fruit was dialled
right back. These wines needed years to show their best and were not always the
most approachable while they were still young.
Throughout this time, Leeuwin Estate maintained a steady
style, producing fine, elegant wines that were capable of extended aging, but
were also great drinking early on. In any given year, the Art Series Chardonnay
is amongst the country’s finest. Given that it has been at the highest level
for almost 40 years makes this one of Australia’s greatest wines of any
variety.
Besides the wines, there was another story that unfolded
during this tasting: the impact of the closure used on the condition of the wine.
There was a marked difference in the freshness of the wines, with those under
screw cap (2003 onwards) far fresher and more consistent than the earlier wines
(of which more than one bottle had to be opened on the night to find a good
example for the tasting).
There were a number of highlights on the night; the 1990,
for example, demonstrated just how well these wines can age (cork permitting).
In terms of sheer quality, there were no bad wines at all,
but a few of the vintages really stood out. The 2000 was great drinking and the
2003 remarkably fresh and youthful. The truly great wines on the night came
from 2005, 2007, 2010, 2014 and 2016.
Reviewed
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay
– Art Series – 1990. Honeyed and
rich, yet still with life and balance. The palate is rich, rounded and textured,
with excellent length of flavours. In remarkable condition and great drinking.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2000. Fresh
and vibrant, with peach-like fruit and gentle honeyed notes. The acidity is a
highlight. Almost Chablis in character, with minerality a feature. The palest
colour of the wines under cork, this was considered to be a very good bottle.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2001. What
a shame. Ever so slightly tainted and no back-up available on the night (previous
bottles have been excellent).
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2002. Under
cork, this had a golden colour and was very developed. Enjoyable drinking, but
sure to be better bottles out there.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2003. A
notable change in colour and very fresh in comparison. Here, the honey
characters have been replaced by more toasty notes. The acid is muted, but
there is enough freshness to make this great drinking. Lingering toffee finish
a highlight. No rush to drink these.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2004. Wow,
this is a step up in freshness and concentration. Delightful peachy fruit,
subtle toast and balancing acidity. Long and complex, with excellent mouth-feel,
this is vibrant and delicious. Opens with air, developing richness of fruit and
great length and balance. Super wine!
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2005. Lighter
colour, and even fresher, the ripe fruit here is absolutely superb. The palate
is fine, elegant, and balanced, with great acid structure and length. Restrained
and youthful, this has a decade ahead of it, but why wait? A vinous highlight.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2006. A
touch more colour compared to the ‘05 and ‘07, this has more toast, but less
fruit. That said, it still has good acidity. Generosity of flavours makes up
for the longevity, but probably best to drink this vintage sooner than later.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2007. Wow.
This is spectacular. Delicate, refined and supple, yet this has power to boot. There
is superb fruit, balance and mouth-feel. Restrained, but all components are in
harmony and there is great length of flavours. An ethereal wine that has a
brilliant future.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008.
Amazingly, this tastes like it was released just yesterday. Taut and fresh,
with high acidity. With air, this opens and shows a touch of lime notes. Easy
to be overlooked next to the 2007, but a lovely wine that has real potential.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009.
Unfortunately, this wine could not be found on the night.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2010. What
a beautiful wine. Fine, elegant, refined and supple, yet the balance is the
best of any wine to date, making this also the best drinking. With finer
acidity and brilliant fruit, this will be even better in 10 years. One of my
wines of the night.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2011. A
little more restrained than the 2010, this needs a few years to really open up.
Again, the balance is brilliant, with fine grapefruit-like acidity and supple
peach and nectarine fruit. Youthful vitality and richness, with excellent fruit
weight but give it time.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2012. Finesse
and poise are the features of this sublime wine. Seamless and restrained, with a
spine-tingling presence. Almost ethereal, there is a nervous tension to the
wine. A little polarising, but a personal favourite.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2013. Melon
and grapefruit to the fore. This is textured, chewy and full of potential, yet
remarkably good drinking already. The finish is near seamless and the acid
balance is a highlight. With air, this starts to develop peachy fruit. Another
great wine.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2014. This
is quite firm and taut. Having said that, the balance is exemplary, with the
acid cutting through the fruit richness. Needs years to show its best, but with
air, the fruit richness builds and you get a glimpse of just how good this wine
is. Will age with grace.
Leeuwin Estate –
Chardonnay – Art Series – 2015. Spectacular,
fine and restrained, yet with depth and power. This is youthful, and needs
years to hit its peak, but there is no doubting the sheer quality of the fruit
underlying this wine. A wine for the long haul.
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2016. I have written recently about just how good this is, but on the night: More perfumed, with lovely floral highlights. The palate is shy and restrained, with the balance and mouth-feel a highlight. Needs a few years, but this may well be the greatest Leeuwin Chardonnay released to date. A great way to end the evening.
The Porongurups in the Great Southern region of Western
Australia must surely produce the best Rieslings in Western Australia, showing
great purity of fruit and outstanding balance. Whilst they lack the long
history of the great Clare Valley Rieslings (such as Grosset and Leo Buring),
they are challenging the quality. The other region to also star with Riesling
in the last few years is Tasmania, but precious few of those make it to WA.
One producer that has consistently made high quality Riesling
from the region is Howard Park. Over the last few years, their Porongurup
Riesling has consistently been a star. The 2018 vintage is no exception,
resulting in a perfumed, floral wine with great aging potential.
The real surprise of the tasting however, was the 2018 Flint
Rock. An irresistible wine that has the ability to change how people perceive
Rieslings.
Reviewed
Howard Park – Riesling – Flint Rock – 2018. (18.5/20pts – $28). Pretty floral notes over a core of slate-like minerality. In the mouth, this is a delight, with the floral fruit flooding the palate, with hints of tropical fruit and talc. The palate transition is quite remarkable, with the fine lemony acid only making its presence at the very close. A wine that has the potential to bring new fans to the variety.
Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2018 (18.7/20pts – $35). Similar floral aromatics to the Flint Rock, though this is a little more restrained and less obvious initially. The palate is fresh, light and pristine, with the perfumed aromatics building over time. It is the depth of fruit that sets this apart from its siblings and is a wine for the cellar.
Personally, I would rather drink a white wine rather than a
Rosé
in general, but every now and then, a wine comes along to challenge my
perceptions. The Red Knot Rosé is one of those wines. The label says
“Crisp and Dry”, and this wine fits that description perfectly.
The other surprises this month came from wines made with
Tempranillo. There is growing interest in this Spanish variety here in
Australia, and the reviewed wines demonstrate two distinct styles of wines that
are worthy of attention.
The Paxton is delicious drinking, with pretty red berry and
floral characters, whilst the Singlefile is a more structured, savoury style
worth of time in the cellar. At $25 each, they also represent good value.
Reviewed
Shingleback – Rosé – Red Knot – 2018 (17/20pts – $18). A blend of Pinot, Shiraz and Grenache. Very pale and quite savoury. The refreshing acid carries the fruit on the palate, giving the impression of a bone-dry finish. There is decent length and mouth-feel, ensuring that this would be great with food. The label says “Crisp and Dry” and this fits the bill perfectly.
Paxton – Tempranillo – 2018 (17.7/20pts $25) Pretty red berry and floral fruit notes on the nose. The palate is bright and fresh, with delicious savoury fruit coating the palate and building in layers. The tannins and acidity keep things fresh, making for a great drink. Pizza or pasta – the choice is yours.
Singlefile – Tempranillo – 2017 (18.1/20pts – $25). Much more depth than the last, but also less accessible now. The savoury fruit is structured and textured, and gets a little chewy on the palate. This will accompany food well now, but will be better with a few years in the cellar. Good effort.
Margaret River has a reputation for producing some of the
greatest Cabernets in Australia, if not the world. So it came as no surprise to
the panel that the 2016 Cape Mentelle Cabernet is a truly outstanding wine.
But it was the quality of the entry-level wines from Cape
Mentelle and Vasse Felix that delighted the panel. They both make for great
drinking now, but are also worthy of time in the cellar to allow the wine to
evolve.
Also included in this review is the Cape Mentelle Zinfandel,
a wine of great finesse and elegance, which helps to redefine what this variety
is capable of in Australia.
Reviewed
Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 (18.8/20pts – $98). Wow, wow, wow, this has it all. Bright, fresh floral fruit and savoury notes from the oak leads into a silky finish framed by fine tannins. A joy to drink now, but sure to age well for a decade or more. Gets serious on the close, with density of fruit, graphite and tar-like notes.
Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $31). Given that this wine is the entry level Cabernet from Cape Mentelle, the quality is nothing short of outstanding. The dense, ripe fruit is a highlight. This is a serious wine, with chewy, structured fruit and savoury, texturing oak and tannins. Remains supple and lithe despite the power, with blueberry fruit building with air. Great now, but also age-worthy.
Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon (Gold Capsule) – 2016. (18.5+/20pts – $47). Fragrant and pretty, with bright red fruits and gentle cedary oak, but the depth is a step up from the Filius. Very long, this builds real depth in the mouth. Near seamless, though the acidity does build on the finish. Brilliant now, but needs 10+ years to really hit its peak. This includes 11% Malbec and 3% Petit Verdot, aged in French oak (44% New).
Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2016. (18.2/20pts – $28). Fresh and supple red berry fruit, with hints of mint on the nose. The palate is fine and savoury, with supple tannins and acid combining on a silky finish. Fresh and approachable, this is such an easy drink now, but has enough depth and Bordeaux-like structure to allow for short to medium-term cellaring. Excellent. Aged for 12 months in French oak, this includes 14% Malbec.
Cape Mentelle – Zinfandel – 2016 (18.5/20pts- $58). This is very impressive. Real depth and power to the fruit, with red berry, cherry, tobacco and spice. The palate is poised and balanced, with a delicious finish. The texturing tannins and medium toast oak adding grip, but also balance. Very impressive , this has a lot of similarities with a high-quality Cabernet.
This week saw the panel try a couple of really smart wines
from Singlefile under the Run Free label. Both the Sauvignon Blanc and
Chardonnay are very worthy wines at around $25 per bottle.
The surprise for me though was the Organic Rose from Angove.
A delicious, food friendly wine at a sensible price.
Reviewed
Moss Wood –
Semillon – 2018 (18/20pts). Almost green tinged, this is very grassy and
herbaceous, with lanolin notes. The palate is fine, though very zesty, with acidity
that, whilst intense, magically allows the creamy, textured fruit to shine.
Would be brilliant now with cured fish or super fresh sashimi, but will also
age well.
Singlefile –
Sauvignon Blanc – Run Free – 2018
(17.5/20 pts – $25). Fresh and vibrant, with grassy fruit over lantana and
tropical notes. Quite intense, with decent texture, this is a smart wine indeed.
The textural components on the finish are a highlight and reflect a portion of
barrel- fermented fruit.
Vasse Felix –
Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2017 (17.8/20pts – $24). Quite a complex nose, with and
hints of fresh tropical fruit and creamy, barrel- ferment aromas. The fruit
really shines on the long palate, complemented by a creamy texture and supple
finish. A quality wine that would make an excellent alternative to Chardonnay
with a mushroom risotto.
Singlefile –
Chardonnay – Run Free – 2017
(17.9/20pts – $25). This has a little wow factor. Creamy, silky fruit and
supple oak meld into a seamless package. The intensity and fruit weight are
note-worthy at this price point. There are hints of pineapple and tropical
fruit, but it is the melon notes that shine through. Fresh acidity ensures a
lively finish.
Brash –
Chardonnay – 2016 (18/20pts). With high quality fruit, creamy, textured
winemaking inputs, and subtle minerality, this reminds me a little of the
Pierro Chardonnay. A richer style.
Howard Park –
Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2017
(17.7/20pts – $28). Full of nervous energy. Taut yet there is impressive power
to the fruit. Whilst this will be very enjoyable with food now, it will be much
better with a couple of years in the cellar.
Angove – Pinot
Grigio – Organic – 2018 (17/20pts – $17).
Quite creamy and textured with a nutty, chewy finish. Again, the textural components
are more important than the fruit, but there are some fresh stonefruit notes on
the mid-palate. Slightly viscous finish adds interest to this food friendly wine.
Well made, if uncomplicated.
Angove – Rose – Organic – 2018 (17.3/20pts – $17). Fresh
strawberry and plum notes. This is very attractive, with just the right amount
of grip and texture to make the finish complete and refreshing. This feels
relatively dry adding to the appeal. The texture and acid would make this a good
choice with some nibbles on a sunny afternoon.
In the movie, The Devil Wears Prada, the character played by Meryl Streep chastises her underling (played by Anne Hathaway) for criticising the importance of fashion. She points out that the cerulean coloured sweater she is wearing has come about by the trickle down effect of high fashion, plotting where the colour originated, and how much influence designers, fashion moguls and magazine editors, have on the styles and tastes of the day. Meryl Streep’s character is making a business statement, highlighting the power of marketing.
I have heard it said the wine industry is also a fashion industry, in the sense that tastes and styles in favour at a particular time, by a particular group of people, are influenced by factors other than the product itself, in this case the wine.
I am aware I am treading into dangerous territory here, in that many would argue that the merits of a wine can be objectively assessed, and will “speak for themselves”, as it were. While I agree that this is the case to an extent, and have argued in a previous wine musings article that some objective assessment of the quality of a wine, along certain parameters, IS possible.
However, I am also of the belief that other factors influence market trends. In a sense, this statement seems self evident, but what factors are at play? And do they influence purchasing decisions more that the innate quality of a wine?
Let us lay out the ground rules first. There is more than one “market”, and even several “markets” in the same geographical location. Each market has its own relevant price point, level of engagement with the product, and “maturity”. By the last point I mean that some more established markets may seek novelty, newness.
Who then are the players in this fashion tussle? Several groups emerge as important – firstly, producers and winemakers themselves. Secondly, so-called “industry experts”, comprising, in the main, sommeliers, wine writers and commentators. Thirdly, there are results from wine shows and competitions. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, are consumers themselves.
It would be naïve to think that the above players do not influence each other, and that their influences can be synergistic and even antagonistic. It is likely that is some markets, and for some products, different players “hold the power” at different times.
What do you think? Who drives fashions and trends in wine?
In a line-up of high quality wines, the Vasse Felix Cabernet
really stood out. A wine with great poise and balance that has a very premium
feel about it.
At the more affordable end of the spectrum, the Thorn Clarke
Sandpiper is an excellent effort, with delicious fruit and supple winemaking.
Reviewed
Moss Wood –
Merlot – Ribbon Vale – 2016 (18/20
pts). A very fine wine, though this is closed and tight. The fine tannins and
acid suppress the fruit, though the souring acidity adds drive to the finish.
Give it a few years to open up, and 10 years to shine.
Flametree – Cabernet
Sauvignon – SRS – 2015 (18.3/20+pts). A step up in power and fruit weight, this
is dense, powerful and compact. Darker fruit characters combine with serious
oak on a palate that is chewy and textured, with an abundance of fine tannins
on the finish. Needs years, but will be very good indeed.
Thorn Clarke – Cabernet
Sauvignon – Sandpiper – 2017 (17.8 –
18/20pts – $20). An approachable, modern wine with delicious red berry fruit,
gentle spice and supple texture. Souring acidity and excellent structure add to
the appeal of this excellent value wine.
Vasse Felix –
Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Capsule –
2015 (18.5+/20pts). Refined red fruits with just a touch of mint and eucalypt.
The palate is fine and silky, with the tannins gradually building, eventually
closing down the fruit. This is a serious, powerful wine, where the fruit has
been expertly managed to make it approachable now, yet is also guaranteed to
age well for a decade or more. A complete wine with great poise.
Thorn Clarke – Cabernet Sauvignon – William Randell – 2016.
(18+++/20pts – $60). Textured, rich and chewy, with ripe, dense fruit of some
power. The finish is textured and chewy, with the fruit a little subdued right
now. An impressive wine with exemplary tannin management, this demands a rich
dish if drunk young. Gets very chewy on the
close. 20 years.
In a line-up of fine wines, three really impressed the
panel. Each wine took a different approach in expressing its personality, but
in each case, the results were outstanding.
Over time, their personalities will gradually express
themselves allowing the patient to determine the final pecking order, but from
a value perspective the Leeuwin Estate is the pick.
Reviewed
Cape Mentelle –
Cabernet Sauvignon – 2016 (18.6/20pts). Red currant and bright blueberry fruit,
with floral highlights reminiscent of violets. Long and supple, this is a
charming wine now, but there is density to the fruit that would benefit from 10
years+ in the cellar. Pre-release sample
Cullen – Cabernet
Sauvignon – Diana Madeline – 2017
(18.7/20pts). Intense red berry fruit over subtle mint notes. Quality is
stamped all over a palate which is long, refined, supple and elegant. Will
build depth with time in the glass or a decade in the cellar. A sublime wine of
great charm.
Leeuwin Estate –
Cabernet Sauvignon – 2015 (18.7/20pts). Intense, with laser-like focus, the powerful
fruit has been paired to fine oak and winemaking. Very long, with taut acidity
and fine, if prominent tannins. Needs a decade or two in the cellar, or an hour
or two in a decanter. Due for April Release.
Until recently, the world hierarchy of Chardonnays went
something like;
White Burgundy
Chablis
Everything else
But as in the rest of life, nothing stays the same for ever,
and so it is that the current crop of Western Australian Chardonnays are of
such high quality, that they must be considered a worthy challenger to the
white wines of Burgundy. When price is brought into the equation, then no other
region can even get close to matching the value on offer.
From a value perspective, the Xanadu, Evans and Tate and
Drumborg were the standouts. The Cape Mentelle turns this up a notch, with reserved
power. A simply outstanding wine from the new winemaking team.
Wines like the Deep Woods Reserve are redefining how good
Australian Chardonnay can be, whilst the Leeuwin Estate 2016 is destined to be
one of the truly great Chardonnays made anywhere in the world.
With the majority of these wines available for under $100,
there has never been a better time to try some truly outstanding Chardonnays.
Reviewed
Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2016 (19/20pts). What an extraordinary wine. Barely darker than water right now with subdued/muted fruit notes on the nose. The palate however is amazingly long and intense, with the flavours and textures seamlessly coating the entire palate and lasting for what appears to be minutes on the close. Is this the best Chardonnay yet produced in Australia? It might well be. (Pre-release sample).
Deep Woods –
Chardonnay – Reserve – 2017
(18.8/20pts). A very different wine, but just as good as anything in the
tasting. Elegance and poise are the keys
to this wine. The fruit quality is superb, but rather than being overt and
showy, this is refined and restrained. Peach-like fruit is the main focus, with
minerality and supple lemony acidity driving the finish. The textural nature of
the palate attests to the finest oak treatment. Sublime.
Cape Mentelle –
Chardonnay – 2017 (18.7/20pts). Wow. This is a powerful wine, yet remains taut
as a drum right now. The intensity of the fruit is amazing as is the way the
palate seamlessly transitions from front to back. The white peach and nectarine
fruit is superbly matched to high quality, fine grained French oak. Quite
superb.
Fraser Gallop –
Chardonnay – Palladian – 2017
(18.7/20pts). Again, the intensity of the fruit here is outstanding, but here
there is more of the pineapple/tropical notes coming through. The palate is
dense and viscous, revealing its flavours and textures in seamless layers on
the finish. As good as this is now, it will be even better in 3 years.
Castelli –
Chardonnay – Il Liris – 2016
(18.6/20pts – $70). Powerful, expressive wine of great character. Complex
aromas of peach, curry leaf, minerality, and struck match. The palate is
intense and focused, with the acid and deftly handled oak building in layers
over the fruit. This will be a great
wine either now or in in 5 years’ time. This is sealed with a glass
stopper and the fruit comes from Denmark.
Singlefile –
Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2018
(18.6/20pts – $50). An immense, powerful wine with great presence. Tropical
fruit, peach and nectarine are all on show in this densely flavoured wine, with
expertly managed oak adding texture, yet tis remains elegant and has a very
long palate. Outstanding.
Seppelt –
Chardonnay – Drumborg – 2017
(18.5/20+pts). An intense, mouth-watering wine that, whilst in a cooler style,
has plenty of personality and life. The high quality ripe fruit is long and
intense, with a core of lemony acidity that drives the finish. Needs 3 – 5
years, but a very impressive wine.
Evans & Tate
– Chardonnay – Redbrook – Estate –
2017 (18.5/20pts – $40). A powerhouse of a wine that is full of youthful
exuberance, with intense stone-fruit and citrus notes, taut acidity, supple oak
and hints of minerals. Needs a few years to fill out, but this is a star. (Pre-Release
Sample).
Howard Park –
Chardonnay – 2017 (18.5/20 pts – $58). This is a very impressive wine, with the
dense, ripe fruit paired expertly to medium toast, fine grained oak. Stone-fruit,
curry leaf/minerality and citrus zest aromas and flavours all shine through. However, it is the depth of fruit on the
palate that is most impressive. The finish is a little taut now, so 3-5 years
in the cellar should see it start to open up.
Xanadu –
Chardonnay – 2016 (18.5/20pts – $39). A serious wine with great fruit weight,
density and notable viscosity. Powerful, with ripe peachy fruit, a lovely
creamy texture and excellent length. Near seamless, the oak adds to the
texture, seamlessly complementing the high quality fruit. Will age well in the
short term.
