Cabernet Sauvignon: December New Release

Barry Weinman: 22^nd December 2017

Western Australian Cabernets shone in our latest Cabernet tasting, with Redman providing an excellent alternative from Coonawarra.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2014 (18.7/20 – $135). Wow, this is all class. Supple, ripe Cabernet fruit matched by fine oak and tannins. Structured and age-worthy, yet made in a way that makes this delicious now. Top wine!

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18.6+/20 – $32). Great colour in the glass. Vibrant, pretty berry fruit aromas of real quality. The high quality, ripe fruit is a delight on the palate, with quality oak adding depth. Great length, with fine tannins build on the finish, shutting down the fruit a little. A very fine wine that could be drunk with pleasure any time over the next 10 – 15 years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2014 (18.5/20). Plum, raspberry and some fresh mulberry for good measure. Serious, firm and tight, with high quality oak adding depth. The palate is near seamless and this is very easy to drink now. However, if you’re patient, this, will be great in 10+ years, as the fruit will have started to unwind. From the Batley Vineyard, aged in French oak.

Suckfizzle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (18 – 18.5+). Dark, brooding, brambly fruit, with eucalypt and mint notes. Great depth to the fruit on the palate, thought the tannins are quite pronounced and get a bit chewy on the close. Impressive, but needs 20 years.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Blend – Aquitaine Rouge – 2014 (18/20 – $38). Whilst there is decent quality red-berry fruit on show, this is all about savoury structure right now. A dark, brooding wine, with chewy tannins and drying acidity. This is a serious, if austere style that needs ten years to start to open up. Quality oak to close.

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – Coonawarra – 2015 (17.8/20). The blackcurrant and berry fruit builds with air. Quite a serious wine that, whilst only medium bodied, has taut, structured fruit. Good length and depth, but this needs a couple of years to hit its straps.

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Small Batch – 2015 (17.8/20 – $27). Lovely ripe fruit on the nose, with good intensity. The palate has fresh fruit, with enough tannins and acid to keep everything in balance. The oak plays no obvious role, just adding texture and mouth-feel. Not serious, but delicious short term drinking.

Stella Bella – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2014 (17.8/20). Really good fruit here, in a supple, savoury frame. The texture here is a highlight, with the fine, graphite-like tannins adding texture but without dominating the fruit. This is medium bodied, with delicious ripeness to the fruit and tannins that build gently on the finish. Wonderful drinking now or over the next 5 – 7 years.

Aromatic White Wines

15^th December 2017: Barry Weinman

Wine can be a little confusing at times, given that grapes often have alternative names when grown in different regions. A good example of this is Pinot Gris, which has a number of different names, depending   on where it is grown: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinot_gris

When grown in Alsace, it is referred to as Pinot Gris, and produces an aromatic, fresh wine that can also take some bottle age. Whilst the same grape is called Pinot Grigio in Italy, and is made in a very different style, with much more neutral characters.

In Australia, both names are used interchangeably, and there does not appear to be a common approach as to when to use either name. I have tried some very fresh/fragrant Pinot Grigios for example.

Reviewed

Handorff Hill Winery – Pinot Grigio – Adelaide Hills – 2017 (18/20). This wine is pretty, fresh and aromatic, with rose petal, pear and lemony acid. A touch of viscosity combined with the well-managed phenolics and fruit characters that linger for some time, makes for a satisfying drink. A delicious wine that deserves a spot on every table this Christmas.

Cherubino – Pinot Blanc – Laissez Faire – 2016 (17.5/20 – $29). This has gentle aromatics and fine, almost feathery acid and is reminiscent of the wines from Alsace. Really nice mouth-feel, with the supple phenolics giving way to floral fruit characters, and the acid driving the finish. An excellent example of this little-seen variety and worth seeking out this summer.

Cherubino – Field Blend – Laissez Faire – 2016 (17.5/20pts – $29). Just smelling this wine made me yearn for food. Subtle aromatics showing a touch of turkish delight. The palate is quite neutral and has excellent mouth-feel. There is a bit of flesh to the mid-palate, but then it gets very dry to close. Bring on a piece of pan-fried snapper (a blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Gris).

Howard Park – Jete – Brut – NV (17.5/20). Refined bead. Complex and rich, with depth of fruit to the nose. The palate is fresh, with gentle toasty notes and subtle autolysis. A refined wine that will be very enjoyable as a late afternoon drink with friends.

Juniper Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Crossing – 2017 (17.5/20 – $20). Tropical fruit and fresh lantana leap from the glass. The palate has the same fruit characters, though there is admirable restraint and balance. The inclusion of a portion of barrel-fermented fruit adds depth and supple texture.

Juniper Estate – Fiano – Small Batch – 2017 (17.3/20 – $27). A neutral, food-friendly wine, with enough acid to make the finish fresh. Textured, with some viscosity and a touch of phenolics. Good length. I really like the saline tang to close.

New Release Shiraz/Blends – November 2017

20^th November 2017

There are a very few wineries in Australia who, day in and day out, produce outstanding wines at prices that must surely make other winemakers cry. Two such wineries are Shingleback and Angove. Both are from McLaren Vale in South Australia, and both make extraordinary wines for the price.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2015 (18.5/20 – $41). Dense, powerful fruit on the nose, while the palate is flooded with chocolate/plum fruit. The tannins are barely perceptible on the finish, with the acid carrying the palate. It is only right on the close of the very long palate that the grip becomes evident. Like the 2016 Chardonnay, this wine demonstrates more fruit weight that I recall from previous recent vintages. Now – 20 years

Te Aro Estate – Shiraz – Charred Door – 2015 (18.4/20). Generous, powerful and intense fruit on the nose. The succulent ripe fruit coats the entire palate and lingers for some time. Refined, yet powerful, with the tannins really kicking in on the close. Oak matches the fruit well. A serious wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, or cellared for a decade or more. 15.6% alcohol, but takes this in its stride. Bravo!

Evans & Tate – Shiraz – Redbrook – 2012 (18.2+). Dark plum fruits here. Concentrated and dense, with chocolate and coffee highlights. The palate is closed and tight, with the fine tannins and oak blanketing the fruit. The mouth-feel is excellent and the length noteworthy, with excellent acidity. Needs 10 years to hit its straps.

O’leary Walker – Shiraz – Claire – Reserve – 2013 (18+/20). From 100 year-old vines. Lovely wine, with ripe, silky fruit and savoury/spice notes that add interest. Cherry and mint on the palate, with the oak adding depth, whilst the fine tannins start to close down the fruit on the finish. The souring acidity keeps the palate fresh and alive, despite the density of the fruit.

Woodvale – GSM – Hootenanny – 2014 (18/20). Initially a touch closed, but quickly opens up to show sweet fruit as well as cloves and cinnamon/spice notes. The fruit is succulent and long, and, whilst the palate initially appears straightforward, the length and persistence are deceptive. Great drinking over the next 5 – 8 years.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2016 (17.8/20 – $15). An excellent wine that is focussed and precise. The fruit quality is excellent, but it needs to be coaxed from the glass right now. With air, the sweet fruit opens to show its class with liquorice and menthol highlights. Great value!

Te Aro Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Jokers Grin – 2015 (17.8/20). This is all about the ripe fresh fruit, though there is also excellent texture and length. The fine tannins get a bit chewy on the close, adding to the mouth-feel. Excellent short-term drinking.

Angove – Shiraz – Wild Olive – Organic – 2016 (17.7/20 – $18). Another cracking wine from this in-form producer. There are loads of dark fruit, in a brooding, serious style. Supple fruit at first, however from the mid-palate, things are a little subdued, with the tannins and acid keeping a lid on the fruit. Will reward decanting now, or short-midterm cellaring.

After Hours – Shiraz – Oliver – 2015 (17.5++/20). I like this a lot. Dense, savoury fruit with real depth. Restrained, yet there is decent weight on the palate. The tannins are quite fine but steamroll the fruit from the mid-palate onwards. Likely to be excellent with a decade or two in the cellar.

New Release Chardonnay

12^th November 2017

The new Cape Mentelle Chardonnay was a revelation. It seems that the style has evolved slightly under the stewardship of Frederique Perrin, showing a bit more generosity and allowing the fruit quality to be showcased.

And then there was the Howard Park Allingham Chardonnay – brilliant!

Finally, the pair of wines from After Hours provided an interesting comparison. The 2015 being all rich and buttery, whilst the 2016 was restrained and lithe by comparison.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Allingham – 2016 (18.7/20 – $89). Textbook example of modern Chardonnay. Whilst restrained, the high quality fruit is a delight, with the supple oak and lees components adding depth, but not overt flavours. Great length of flavours, with grapefruit acidity that cuts through the stonefruit notes. Will develop brilliantly over 5 – 10 years and one of the best Chardonnays I have tried in 2017.

Cape Mentelle – Chardonnay – 2016 (18.7/20 – $45). Complex, powerful and intense, the Gin Gin clone fruit expressing as pineapple and peach, evolving to nectarine. Very intense palate, yet the balance is superb. Great length, this wine is great now, but would also take 5 years in the cellar. Brilliant! Whilst still fairly tight, this is a richer style than I recall of other recent vintages, spending 11 months in oak (1/3 new) undergoing wild fermentation and partial malolactic fermentation.

After Hours – Chardonnay – 2015 (18/20). Wow, the flavours really hit you here. Powerful fruit, with struck match, minerality, nectarine, white peach and grapefruit. There is quality oak, and the palate is very long and textured. Will suit those who like a big, rich Chardonnay.

After Hours – Chardonnay – 2016 (18/20). Lithe in comparison. Ripe, yet restrained fruit has been skilfully matched to the oak, with careful lees management adding depth. An elegant, refined wine.

Talisman – Chardonnay – Gabrielle – 2015 (18/20 – $35). Complex nose that has minerality, stonefruit, and lees/oak notes. The palate is complex and fine, with lemony acid. The fruit is restrained at present, needing a few years to fully express itself, so short to mid-term cellaring will be rewarded.

New Release – Mixed – November 2017

12^th November 2017: Barry Weinman

I have been a big fan of Singlefile for a number of years, but in this tasting, it was the Riesling under the Run Free label (their second label) that really excited the panel. This is such good drinking as to make it near irresistible.

In a similar vein, the Scotchmans Hill Pinot Noir proved to be quite delicious and is worth looking out for this summer.

Unusually, of the 20 wines reviewed for this tasting, only two made it to this review.

Reviewed

Run Free – Riesling – 2017 (18.5/20 – $25). Aromatic, perfumed and very fine. The palate is pretty, precise and a picture of restraint, with great length and lovely texture. The fruit really builds in the glass and shows hints of talc. Brilliant, youthful drinking, and this is reflected in the points given.

Scotchmans Hill – Pinot Noir – 2015 (18/20 – $35). Pretty red fruits (strawberry and creaming soda) on the nose with cherry and spice highlights. This gives way to a touch of liquorice and earthy notes. A lovely wine that is quite complete, with the length and texture a feature. The acid adds zip, making for a great drink.

Valli – 2015 Pinots

Barry Weinman: October 31, 2017

Grant Taylor established Valli in 1998 and has been making the wines ever since. The focus in primarily on Pinot  Noir, from five vineyards across Central Otago.

Tasting through the Valli range is a lesson in terroir. Whilst the Pinots come from different sites across the region, the vineyards all have a similar clonal composition and crop at between 4 – 5 tonnes per hectare. Approximately 35% of each undergoes whole-bunch fermentation and the oak regime is consistent across the range (1/3 new).

The exception to this is the Waitaki vineyard. The vines really struggle here, producing lower yields of very small berries. This results in a higher proportion of solids, so the amount of whole bunch fermentation drops to between 15 and 20%.

All the wines are excellent, but for me, the two standouts are the Gibbston and Waitaki. Both brilliant wines, in slightly different styles.

I suggest getting a few friends around, and tasting through the range yourself. It really highlights the impact that the microclimate can have on a wine.

Reviewed

Valli – Pinot Grigio – Gibbston Vineyard – 2016. Vibrant fruit, with a saline/iodine-like tang. The palate is bursting with fruit and spice notes, leading to a long, textured finish. A small amount of skin contact is allowed, to add texture.

Valli – Pinot Noir – Gibbston Vineyard – 2015. Vibrant, almost exuberant fruit up front, with cherry and spice notes. On the palate things get serious with the fine oak and ripe tannins combining with fresh acidity on a very long finish. Excellent wine that offers medium-term cellaring potential.

Valli – Pinot Noir – Burns Cottage Vineyard – 2015. Whilst the fruit is still ripe and sweet, this is less floral than the Gibbston. The palate is where the differences are more pronounced, with savoury/earthy characters coming to the fore. The long finish gets a bit chewy to close.

Valli – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn Vineyard – 2015. From a warmer sub region, this wine sits in the middle ground stylistically. Excellent drinking, though lacks the floral highlights of the Gibbston. May need a few years to come out of its shell.

Valli – Pinot Noir – Bendigo Vineyard – 2015. From the warmest of the sub-regions, here the pretty fruit is compact and nicely defined. The palate is ripe and plush with savoury notes that build on the finish. A fine wine with excellent length.

Valli – Pinot Noir – Waitaki Vineyard – 2015. A brilliant wine, with pretty, floral, perfumed fruit. The elegant fruit is a feature on the palate, and there is great depth behind the prettiness. Right on the close, the savoury tannins start to build, suggesting that 5 years in the cellar would not hurt this in the slightest. A remarkable wine!

Ata Rangi: New Zealand’s Finest Pinot?

Barry Weinman: 22^nd October 2017

Over the last decade Central Otago Pinot Noir has gone from strength to strength, producing rich and seductive Pinots of ever increasing quality. Yet before many of these wineries were even established, Ata Rangi in Martinborough was already producing some of the finest new-world wines made from Pinot Noir.

It must be noted that the Ata Rangi style is different, with less of the fleshiness, and more structure and energy. The Pinot Noir is also age-worthy: I recently opened a bottle of the 2002 and it was drinking brilliantly, despite coming from the most difficult vintage of the decade. Fortunately, by 2002, the winery had already switched to screw caps!

The first vintage at Ata Rangi was in 1984, with current winemaker Helen Masters at the helm since 2003. Whilst Pinot is what the winery is best known for, the rest of the range does not disappoint, with complexity and texture being common themes that run through the entire range.

If you only try one new-world Pinot this year, then this should be it.

Current Release

Ata Rangi – Sauvignon Blanc – 2016. Made in a different style to Marlborough, in the pursuit of texture. 10% of the fruit is barrel fermented on skins, whilst another 50% is fermented in large old barrels. Savoury characters abound over a touch of passionfruit, citrus and musk. Savoury and grassy, there is refreshing acidity to close.

Ata Rangi – Chardonnay – Craighall – 2015. Complex and fine, with some worked notes and oak over lemon zest . This is restrained and textured, with oak and mineral/flint characters to close. It will age very well in the medium term. From three vineyards, all planted to Mendoza clone, whole bunch pressed and fermented in 300l oak barrels (25% new).

Ata Rangi – Pinot Gris – Lismore – 2016. Restrained, yet textured with pear and peach fruit notes. The slightly viscous mouth-feel on the palate is a highlight. Food friendly, this has only 5gm/l of residual sugar and a portion was fermented in barrel (old oak).

Ata Rangi – Rose – 2016. Made from Merlot, Shiraz and Pinot. The juice is left on skins for a few hours to increase texture, but also giving the wine a pretty salmon hue. A refreshing, textured wine that is more serious than most, and is sure to accompany food well. The winery has been making this for 20 years, however this is the 1^st time it is available in Australia.

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – Crimson – A vibrant wine, with a lighter colour and pretty berry fruit characters. The floral, gently spiced fruit gives way to lovely texture and mouth-feel. Made from fruit from the estate’s younger vines (less than 20 years), 20% new oak, no whole bunch fermentation, this is delightful drinking.

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2015. More depth to the colour. Perfumed and floral, with summer berry fruit. The palate is silky, textured, fine, elegant and savoury. Gets quite chewy on the finish, with the very fine tannins and oak blanketing the fruit to close. This is a spectacular wine that reaffirms Ata Rangi’s reputation as one of the great Pinot producers (35% new oak and 30% whole bunch fermented).

Faber Wines Retrospective Tasting – Part Two: Reserve Shiraz and Frankland River Cabernet

Barry Weinman: 12 October 2017

A few single vineyard wines sit at the top of the Faber quality tree. In the case of The Reserve Shiraz, all fruit comes from 2 acres of estate vines planted in 1998. The cuttings for these vines came from Houghton’s Frankland vineyard.

The grapes are effectively used to make 3 wines. Immediately after crushing, 1/3 of the juice is drained off the top of the tank and sold to another producer. The free run juice is then used as the base for the Riche Shiraz and accounts for another 1/3 of the juice. Finally, the juice from the pressings is used to make The Reserve.

The juice from the pressings is then transferred to 200l tanks with the various portions kept separate whilst the fermentation continues. The best of these tanks are then transferred to 300l French oak barrels (100% new) to complete the ferment. Each year only 4 barrels are used. Over time, the best of these barrels are ear-marked for the Reserve.

The winemaking aims to be hands-off, with all key decisions relating to how the vineyard is managed and when the fruit is picked/sorted. In most years only 2 – 3 barrels make it to the final wine, resulting in a tiny production of between 600 – 900 bottles.

Reserve Shiraz

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2001. Made from three year old vines, the fruit is showing a lot of leather and spice. Gets a little chewy on the close with fine tannins and acidity adding freshness. Excellent drinking, with plenty of life.

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2003. Supple, fine and elegant, the dark berry/plum and chocolate fruit is balanced by souring acidity. The tannins and oak have softened, providing mouth-coating texture and fine grip on the finish. A lovely wine from an excellent year.

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2005. More freshness here, with real vibrancy to the fruit. The berry flavours are complemented by dark chocolate notes. Very long, the intense fruit retains balance right to the close. A slight resinous character from the oak adds a savoury lift. Superb drinking.

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2009. Lovely aromatics showing plum, chocolate and spice. The palate is a joy, the dense vibrant fruit absorbing the oak with aplomb. The finish is fine and remarkably elegant for a wine of this power and depth. Silky, though the oak and tannins build with air on a drying finish.

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2014. Closed, tight and powerful, this is a wonderful example of warm-climate Shiraz. Again, the ripe fruit has swallowed up the oak, allowing the berry characters to carry the length of the palate. The length of flavours is a highlight, as is the mouth-coating texture. A fine wine that has a long future.

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2015 . This is remarkably similar to the 2014, with the dense, high quality fruit the focus. The oak adding texture and depth, rather than dominating the fruit.

Frankland River Cabernet

Whilst the focus of Faber is primarily on the Swan Valley, when appropriate fruit becomes available John is excited to make wines from other districts. The Frankland River Cabernet is an example of this. Apparently, the fruit for this wine comes from a small block of vines that typically supplies Houghton. The vineyard was planted in 1998.

This really is micro winemaking, with only 1 – 2 barrels made per year. The wine spends 22 months in new French oak.

Faber – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2004. Still has vibrancy and life. Mint, eucalypt, spice, texture, length of flavor and oak merely for texture. A lovely wine in its drinking window.

Faber – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2010. Mint, eucalypt and gentle herbal notes. Fine, elegant, refined and long. A wine of distinction.

Faber – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2012. This wine really stands out in the lineup, with dense blackberry fruit. More textural, and very long, with the youthful fruit paired to chewy tannins and fine-grained oak. Really needs food now, or ten years in the cellar.

Faber – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2014. Closed and tight, with chewy textural components. A reserved, fine wine that needs time.

New Release Riesling: October 2017

Barry Weinman: 4^th October 2017

Great Riesling can come in many different forms. From bone-dry, steely wine, to off-dry examples right through to the spectacular, intensely sweet (and very expensive) wines from Germany.

Given that the majority of the Rieslings made in Australia are relatively dry, I have always struggled to understand why everyday consumers, when offered a glass of Riesling, will decline, stating that they prefer a dry wine. This same consumer is just as likely to order a Sauvignon Blanc or blend with noticeable levels of residual sugar.

Perhaps it has something to do with cask wines of old?

The highlight of this tasting was the wines of Koonowla. These wines represent such good value that one panellist was heard to complain that the wines were too cheap! This supports the wineries goal of “delivering consistent and high quality wines at affordable value”. The wines are made by David O’Leary and Nick Walker and are worth seeking out.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2016 (18.5/20 – $37). Restrained and very fine with citrus aromatics/notes. The fruit flavours are gentle, yet very persistent, with the fine acidity melding seamlessly with the fruit on the palate. A wonderful wine that is great now, but will also age well for a decade or more.

Koonowla – Riesling – 2017. (18.5/20 – $20). More aromatic than many in the tasting, with the lime blossom fruit a highlight. The palate is taut, restrained and firm, with the fine fruit a little subdued by the acid and structure. Will be great with food, but sure to age well. Brilliant value from this Clare Valley producer.

Poacher’s Ridge – Riesling – Louis Block – 2007. (18.5/20). More obvious toasty, aged notes on the nose over aromas reminiscent of Key Lime pie. The palate is fresh and vibrant, with the acid softened enough to allow the fruit to shine. The fruit gives way to gentle oiliness, along with fresh, vibrant acidity. At 10 years of age, this provides great drinking.

Singlefile – Riesling – Great Southern – 2017 (18.5/20) Lovely floral perfume, with talc-like characters. The palate is a delight, the fine citrus fruit slowly giving way to feathery acid on the finish. Remarkably easy to drink now, but sure to age well for 5 – 10 years.

Helm – Riesling – Premium – 2016 (18.3/20). Restrained, fine and elegant, with a long, supple and seamless palate. The high quality fruit sits perfectly with the acid, making for an elegant, age-worthy wine.

Howard Park – Riesling – Museum Release – Great Southern – 2012 (18.3/20 – $41). Fragrant and supple, with very attractive floral highlights. The palate is more restrained, with the acid and gentle phenolics giving way to a touch of toast. At 5 years of age, this fine wine is just starting to show the first signs of development.

Koonowla – Riesling – The Ringmaster – 2017 (18/20 – $16). A fine wine, with fragrant lemon aromas. The palate is fine and elegant, with the acid perfectly paired to the fruit, resulting in a great drinking wine. Deserves a good piece of snapper. Value!