Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Felton Road 2014 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 20^th September 2015

Felton Road Winery is one of the oldest wineries in Central Otago. The first vines were planted in 1992, and the first wines produced in 1997. Amazingly, Blair Walters has been the winemaker for every one of those vintages, meaning that 2014 is his eighteenth vintage at the winery.

The winery is located in Bannockburn, a is a (slightly) warmer sub-region of the otherwise cool Central Otago region. Sitting in an inland basin, Bannockburn has warmer days, yet cooler nights.

The winery has 32 hectares of vines spread across four vineyards, three of which are currently in production. The region is surprisingly dry, with annual rainfall of approximately 350mm/year. The rain is spread over all 12 months of the calendar, ensuring excellent vine health.

The winery is certified bio-dynamic, though no fuss is made about this. Blair suggests that it helps in their quest to accurately express a sense of place. Production currently sits at around 12,000 cases.

The team at Felton Road suggest that 2014 may well be their best vintage ever! To complement these, we also tasted a five wine vertical of the Chardonnay and the Cornish Point Pinot Noir.

This tasting coincided with the launch of the new Reidel “Central Otago” Pinot Noir glass, and these were used to great effect. (I look forward to comparing them to the “Chianti” glass, which remains my benchmark all-purpose glass).

Conclusion: Be it the Chardonnay or any of the Pinot Noirs, the wines of Felton Road set the benchmark for Central Otago.

A special thanks to Red and White for hosting this tasting. As the wines were not served in a blind line-up, my points are for illustrative purposes only.

Reviewed – 2014 Vintage

Felton Road – Chardonnay – 2014 (18). A delicate and creamy nose, courtesy of the barrel ferment and malo characters. With air, the pineapple, nectarine and grapefruit aromas build. The palate is defined by minerality and delicate spice. Almost Chablis-like, yet there is a core of ripe, elegant fruit that will build with time in the bottle. Long, fine and restrained, with excellent balance and mouth-feel. A saline-like tang to close.

The winemaking for the Felton Road Chardonnay has evolved over time. The 2014 only saw 10% new oak. Careful attention is paid to picking times, with the fruit picked relatively early. As a result, the wine went through 100% malolactic fermentation, yet retains lovely acid balance.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2014 (18.5). Lovely nose that has precise varietal characters over quite generous fruit. The palate is fine and lively, with minerality and spice over cherry-like fruit. Silky and supple, with texturing oak and slightly chewy tannins. The acidity adds drive to the finish. A precise wine that will benefit from a year or two in the cellar. A lovely drink.

A blend of three different vineyards, 4000 dozen made.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2014 (18.5+). Feminine and perfumed, the nose is delicate and quite beautiful. Precise, ripe fruit on the palate that is both subtle and supple. There is a mineral character that presents texturally, with very fine fruit tannins and texturing oak adding grip on the very long finish. Builds depth and power with air, and there is serious structure. Give it 5 years.

Matured in 30% new oak, which was air-dried for three years, 1100 cases made.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Block 3 – 2014 (18.7). Vibrant fruit on the nose, with depth and obvious power to the fruit. Lovely fruit on the palate. Silky mouth-feel, the fruit builds and fans out with air like the proverbial peacock’s tail. Tremendous length and presence, though this is quite understated. A joy to drink now, but will build if you are patient.

From the oldest vines on the property and some of the oldest in Central Otago. 12 – 14 months in oak. No fining or filtration, indigenous yeast. Natural malo. 600 dozen produce.

Felton Road – Cornish Point Pinot Noir – 2009 – 2013

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2013. (18). Lovely perfumed nose. Ripe, fresh cherry and red berry fruit over spice notes. The palate is rich and dense, with excellent mouth-feel and texture. Chewy tannins, mineral-like acidity to close. A lovely wine from a warmer year.

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2012 (18.6). Detailed, accurate and almost Burgundian. Complex earthy notes meld with the ripe fruit into a seductive, enticing nose. Fantastic mouth-feel and texture, the drying tannins complementing the fruit brilliantly. Depth, presence, power, yet supple and restrained. A great wine from a very good year.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2011 (17.5). There is an immediacy here that is attractive, but this lacks the depth and structure of the best. Good length, with the acid driving the finish. Drinking now with food. From a challenging year.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2010 (18.3 – 18.5). Relatively closed and restrained on both the nose and the palate. Precise and fine, with cherry and red berry fruit to the fore. The mouth-feel is a standout. Near seamless, with silky tannins and supple oak just holding the fruit in check. Really needs another 5 years to hit its straps. With air, this opens up. From a cooler year that proved to be very good.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2009 (18+). Lovely immediacy to the fruit on the nose. This reflects in the palate. Silky, textured and delicious, with slightly chewy tannins. The dense fruit on the palate is good to go now. A powerful wine from a cooler year.

Felton Road Chardonnay – 2009 – 2013

Blair takes a fairly hands-off approach to the Chardonnay, avoiding filtration where possible, due to the naturally stability of the wines. Whole bunch pressed, barrel fermented with wild yeast. They spend 12 months in up to 15 year old oak, with a small amount of battonage to add texture.

Felton Road – Chardonnay 2013. Lovely nose that has mineral and spice notes over nectarine and white peach. The palate is defined by taut acidity and supple, creamy texture. Drinking well now, but will open with time.

Felton Road – Chardonnay 2012. More complexity here, with an almost Burgundian feel. The nose has curry-leaf minerality over stone fruit notes. The palate is supple, rich and complete with excellent length and texture. An excellent wine that can be drunk any time over the next 5 years.

Felton Road – Chardonnay 2011. Has a presence that is very attractive. Stone fruit and spice, with a touch of smoke and flint to close. A complete wine that is drinking well now. Delicious!

Felton Road – Chardonnay 2010. Delicious. Complex, developed, chewy and textured, with just a hint of honey. A decent drink now.

Felton Road – Chardonnay 2009. Fine, supple, rich and textured, Powerful fruit and great length of flavours. A touch of viscosity adds to the mouth-feel. Drinking perfectly now.

Chateau d’Yquem – 2013

Masterclass with Sandrine Garbay

Barry Weinman: 16^th September 2015

One of the best jobs in the wine world must surely be that of winemaker at the famed 1^st Growth Sauterne – Chateau d’Yquem. Sandrine Garbay started at the winery in 1994, setting up the laboratory. She was brought in by the Luc Saluces family, to bring a more technical approach to vineyard management, as well as looking at ways of improving the process.

In 1998, with the departure of Guy Latrille, Sandrine was promoted to winemaker at this venerable estate. The rest, as they say, is history.

Sandrine’s promotion to winemaker corresponded with a very turbulent period for the owners of the winery, culminating in the sale of the estate to LVMH. Besides the portfolio of fashion brands, LMVH also owns a remarkable stable of wineries including

Moet and Chandon
Veuve Clicquot
Hennessy
Cheval Blanc
Krug
Cape Mentelle

Sandrine was in town to celebrate the imminent launch of two 2013 vintage wines; Chateau d’Yquem and a dry Bordeaux Blanc labeled “Y”. The later was of particular interest, as it is harvested just before the sweet wine (just after the onset of botrytis), so there can be some botrytis influences. In effect, it tastes like a dry sauterne.

There were also back vintages of both wines, to demonstrate their aging potential.

Given its fame, the sweet wine needs no introduction. For me, I was reminded of just how elegant and refined these wines are. Poles apart from the likes of De Bortoli from Australia, or indeed any other Sauterne.

The fruit is harvested with at least 360g/l of sugar. 40 – 60% is declassified each vintage. The wines are barrel fermented in 100% new oak for 22 months and SO₂ stabilised.

Given the delicacy, it is almost a shame to drink these wines with dessert. I found that the character of all the wines was more accessible as they approached room temperature, allowing the complexity and richness to become more apparent.

If there were one word that I would use to describe the wines, it would be ethereal. It was a privilege to attend the tasting.

The Wines

Chateau d’Yquem – Bordeaux Blanc – Y – 2013. The nose is savoury, dry and complex, with perfume and honey over herbaceous cut-grass characters. The palate is powerful, complex and textured, with savoury, toast-like notes and a drying finish. Not surprisingly, this is reminiscent of Sauterne in every way other than sweetness.

A blend of Semillon (75%) and Sauvignon Blanc that spends one year in oak, 20% of which is new, the remainder has previously held the sweet wine. 7 gm/l of residual sugar. 10,000 bottles made.

Chateau d’Yquem – Bordeaux Blanc – Y – 2000. The colour here is still relatively pale, tending to straw. The aromas are quite subtle, with hints of brioche and honey. It was in the mouth that this really comes to life, with honeyed, viscous fruit, fabulous mouth-feel and excellent texture. With air the intense fruit developed depth and power, tasting just like a dry “Sauterne”.

Until 2004, this wine was always a 50:50 blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc. The style and consistency has gradually evolved under Sandrine’s stewardship.

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauterne – 2013. Quite closed initially. Opens to show clearly defined apricot, with hints of orange marmalade and fresh cumquat. Perfumed, with just a touch of cinnamon spice. The palate is completely seamless and very intense, quite sweet and viscous, yet refined and balanced. The wine is actually quite light and fine with delicate fruit and subtle botrytis characters. Needs years, but if you do drink it this young, try letting it warm up in the glass a little to see how it evolves.

Semillon (70%)/Sauvignon Blanc. The vineyards were harvested over a four-week period and 60% of the production was declassified. There was 100% Botrytis, 13.2% alcohol and 150g/l of residual sugar. If drunk now as an aperitif, it was suggested to serve this quite cold (7 – 9 degrees C).

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauterne – 2005. More obvious richness on the nose. Concentrated, this has complex aromas of marzipan, apricot, almond, cinnamon and marmalade. The palate is very intense and powerful, yet elegant, refined, supple and seamless. There is great life and drive to the mouth-feel, and this really builds in the glass. Stunning! (13.5% alc, 140g/l residual sugar).

Chateau d’Yquem – Sauterne – 1996. A spectacular nose that is both intense and powerful. Almond meal, apricot, orange marmalade and marzipan all come to mind. The palate is powerful and intense, yet balanced and seamless. Not quite as sweet as some, allowing the fragrant spice notes to shine on the finish. A complete wine.

From a textbook vintage, 6g/l of acidity, 125g/l residual sugar and 14% alc.

Reference

Rand M; Sandrine Garbay of Chateau d’Yquem talks to Decanter:

http://www.decanter.com/features/sandrine-garbay-of-chateau-dyquem-talks-to-decanter-246592/

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 10^th September 2015

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Western Australia and Margaret River in particular, has had a string of excellent vintages stretching back to 2007. Whilst there have been some year-to-year variations, the consistency has been remarkable. The question is whether there is one year in particular that is even better than the others?

A number of wineries believe that 2012 was a particularly strong year. Others have suggested that their 2013s are even stronger.

In an effort to find out, the panel sat down to try a mix of wines from Western Australia to see if there were any obvious trends.

As to the outcome of the tasting, one thing is clear. There were a number of great wines from both 2012 and 2013. Remarkably, 9 of the 20 wines tasted made it to this review. Pick a good producer and you are sure to do well.

Recommended

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2013 (18.7). This is a lovely wine showing ripe, yet refined redcurrant and mint fruit notes. Gentle, balanced and with poise, the very fine fruit is perfectly matched to the winemaking inputs. The tannins are initially silky, but develop fine grippy notes to close. Good now, though this youthful wine will benefit from many years in the cellar. (RRP $85).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2012 (18.7). Dense, powerful fruit here on both the nose and palate. There is mint and gentle herbs over red berry fruit. The palate is chewy and textured, with quality oak highlights. Really builds in the glass. Very long and powerful, this needs years to be at its best. A great wine. (RRP $90).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – S.R.S. – Wilyabrup – 2013 (18.5+). The fruit on the nose is both supple and subtle. On the palate this really shines. Plush, perfectly ripe fruit is paired with supple oak and fine tannins. There is intrinsic power to the fruit, but this is refined and very approachable. Lovely mouth-feel combines with excellent length on this remarkable wine. (RRP $58).

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2012 (18.5+). Menthol and eucalypt, with a slight herbal tinge reflective of the relatively southern location of the vineyards. The palate shows fresh, bright fruit, with a savoury edge. The fine tannins, oak and acidity combine with the shutdown the fruit on the finish. Long, refined and age-worthy, with latent power. Give it at least 5 – 10 years, but will live for 20. (RRP $75).

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2012 (18.5) Menthol and red fruits, over spice highlights from the oak. The palate is fine, though quite closed initially. Silky and supple, with texturing oak and tannins. A wine of the highest quality that needs a few years to express itself fully. (RRP $45).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec – Margaret – Reserve – 2012 (18.5). Lovely fruit here. Gentle red and black berry characters over mint and spice. The palate is fruit forward, but the souring acidity keeps the whole package in check. Cooler region fruit that needs a few years to hit its straps. The fruit really builds on the palate and there is great length of flavours. A silky wine with the potential to age, there are similarities here to the fine wines of Bordeaux. (RRP $46).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2013. (18 – 18.5). Less overt berry characters on the nose initially. The fruit on the palate is almost thick, with layers of generous black fruits over cedar and a hint of licorice/tar. The tannins are remarkably fine, dusting the finish and adding texture and depth. Almost seamless, this is very fine indeed and decent value. Now – 10 years. (RRP $37).

Aravina Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.2). Menthol is the defining character on the nose. This is rich and luxurious, with no rough edges. The palate transition is near seamless. With air, the blackcurrant (almost cassis) fruit starts to shine. The length is noteworthy. A generous wine that can be drunk anytime over the next 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prelude Vineyards – 2012 (17.9). Bright fruit on the nose, in the red berry spectrum. The palate is fresh and lively, with the fruit the main attraction. Fine tannins, gentle oak and well judged acidity add to the drinking pleasure. With air, this gains more depth and structure, but is great drinking now. ($27.50 from the winery).

Lindeman’s Coonawarra Trio – 2013

Lindeman’s Coonawarra Trio

The Three Musketeers

Barry Weinman: 5 September 2015

Lindeman’s has a proud history of producing some of the best Cabernet based wines in the country from the famous Coonawarra region of South Australia. In the 1980s and 1990s, no cellar would be complete without a cross-section of these wines (and the wines from Wynns).

For some reason, these wines have flown under the radar for the last few years. Whilst other brands in the Treasury stable have gone from strength to strength (Penfolds and Wynns for example), I have seen very few wines from Lindeman’s over the last decade or so.

So to have these wines turn up in one of our “blind” panel tastings brought back fond memories of the great wines of the last century and amply demonstrated the quality of the current batch. With an RRP of around $80, these wines are not cheap, but I note that they are available from Dan Murphy for around $55.

All three were excellent, if a little different in style. The Pyrus offers the most immediate drinking pleasure, the St George the greatest longevity and the Limestone Ridge demonstrating how good Shiraz/Cabernet blends from Coonawarra can be.

Reviewed

Lindeman’s – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Limestone Ridge – 2013 (18.6). Classic cool-climate fruit characters, with mint and eucalypt over ripe, berry fruit aromas. The palate is refined, elegant and near seamless. The savoury oak adds depth and texture, whilst the tannins are polished and refined. There is excellent acidity, which keeps the finish fresh and alive, whilst also ensuring longevity. Very good indeed. (RRP $80).

Lindeman’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – St George – 2013 (18.7). Beautiful, deeply scented fruit on the nose. The palate is precise and fine, with dense fruit and a touch of peppermint. The savoury oak adds to the textured palate, with almost chewy tannins. A finely crafted, powerful wine with excellent length. A fantastic wine that deserves years in the cellar. (RRP $80).

Lindeman’s – Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Pyrus – 2013 (18.3). (RRP $80). Impenetrable colour. The fruit here is rich, dense and layered. This is actually quite fruit forward, allowing for immediate pleasure. The fine tannins and supple oak serve to highlight the fruit quality. A delight to drink, though sure to age well anytime over the next 10 years.

New Release Wines – August 2015

New Release Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 28^th August 2015

This week, the panel looked through a number of interesting wines, spanning several tastings. Of the 50 wines tasted, the ones reviewed here stood out for a number of reasons.

Wines like the Bird in Hand Chardonnay shone for their sheer quality. The Woodlands Pinot Noir was a surprise packet from Margaret River, whilst the La Violetta Riesling pushed winemaking boundaries, resulting in a beautifully complex and savoury wine.

Riesling

La Violetta – Riesling – das Sakrileg – 2014 (18). Well defined Riesling characters, with subtle lime juice and musk characters over fragrant pear notes. On the palate, the fruit is balanced by a touch of nuttiness to close, with gentle phenolic richness (aided by barrel fermentation) adding texture. A smart wine that will be great now, or any time over the next 10 years. (RRP $32).

Knappstein – Riesling – Clare Valley – 2014 (17.5). Quite complex, with a blend of citrus aromas and mineral notes. A touch of phenolic richness comes through on the nose and palate. Textural, the mouth-feel is excellent and there is decent length and persistence. Good now, or in 5 years. (RRP $20).

Chardonnay

Bird in Hand – Chardonnay – Adelaide Hills – 2014 ($18.5). Bright fruit with some creamy notes on the nose. The palate is creamy and nicely textured. The nutty characters meld with stone fruit and citrus into a lovely, complete wine. Refined, elegant and long, the fruit persists for some time. Mineral characters build on the finish. Delicious! (RRP $42).

Morlet – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.8). Well made and approachable, yet with depth to the fruit. Initially, the fruit is quite muted, but this really builds on the finish, complemented by creamy oak that adds a touch of toasty goodness to the close. Great drinking and unpretentious.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2014 (17.5 – 18) (RRP $27). Opens with fresh pineapple, grapefruit and lemon peel, though this is quite lean and taut. Decent length, with quality oak adding to the mouth-feel. Needs a few years, and will probably get higher marks in the future.

Fifth Estate – Chardonnay – Krugers Block – 2011 (17.5). Almost golden in colour. Clear varietal definition on the nose, with some minerality to the peach like fruit. The palate is creamy, with a touch of toast courtesy of the oak adding support to the medium weight fruit. Not overly dense, but a good drink.

Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2011 (18). Quite closed and restrained on the nose. The palate has fresh fruit over complex forest floor notes. Cherry, strawberry and plum all come to mind. Long and refined finish, with just a touch of grilled meat on the close. Supple smoky notes from the oak add interest. Very good now or in 5 years. Another good wine from this producer.

Woodlands – Pinot Noir – Reserve De La Cave – 2013 (18). (N/A). Lighter colour, tending to orange on the rim. Quite dense and complex fruit on the nose. The mouth-feel is a highlight, with texture and depth to the fruit. The oak rounds out the finish, with a touch of leather/earthiness to add interest. A decent drinking Pinot of some charm. A surprise package.

Dawson and James – Pinot Noir – D – 2011 (17.8). Mid red colour. Seductive, sensuous nose with hints of strawberry and fennel. The palate is rich and textured, with supple fruit, gentle acid and fine tannins. A touch of stalkiness to close keeps the palate fresh, but this is ideal for immediate consumption.

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series White Wines

Barry Weinman: August 23^rd 2015

Leeuwin Estate – Art Series Whites Wines

Leeuwin Estate is rightly famous for their Art Series Chardonnay. This is a wine of great quality that has set the benchmark for Australian Chardonnays for many years. As a result, it is easy to pay only scant attention to the rest of the wines in their portfolio. That would, however, be a mistake…

The current release of whites offers broad appeal. Of particular note is the Siblings SBS. This is a really interesting example, yet is made in an approachable, early drinking style, and at an affordable price.

Then there is the 2012 Art Series Chardonnay. Another spectacular wine under this label and a bargain when compared to other great wines of the world.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Riesling – Art Series – 2014 (17.5). (RRP $22). A notably different profile to the Rieslings from Clare and the Great Southern. Very pale in the glass. The nose and palate are restrained, tight and very steely. In the mouth there is bracing acidity to close. This is a neutral, food friendly style now, but is sure to blossom with 10 years in the bottle.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2014 (17.6). (RRP $23) Cut grass, fresh herbs and asparagus on the nose with tropical hints. The palate is quite complex, with grassy, savoury notes over a core of ripe cool climate fruit characters. Partial barrel ferment/lees stirring adds depth without adding overt flavours. There is just the right amount of residual sugar to balance the fresh acidity, making this an excellent drink now. Who needs food?!

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc – Art Series – 2014 (17.5 – 18). (RRP $32). Wonderful floral, perfumed fruit on the nose. The palate is quite dry and savoury, with delicate, precise fruit set against a textural background aided by barrel ferment characters. Restrained, with fine though plentiful acidity, this will be a joy to drink with seared scallops now, or on its own in a year or two.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Prelude Vineyards – 2014 (17). (RRP $34). Very pale colour. Lively and fresh, with peach and tropical fruit characters and zesty acidity. Excellent early drinking and a good alternative to NZ SB. A satisfying drink that will gain complexity with a year or two in bottle.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2012 (18.7+). (RRP $94). Relatively pale hue. The nose is fantastic! Complex, yet restrained, with lovely stone fruit notes. The palate is rich and textured, with citrus and white peach, over pineapple acidity. Very long and persistent, yet the intense fruit possesses a degree of restraint. The fine fruit and creamy oak meld into a seamless package. This is drinking very well now, but will reward after a few years in the cellar. Superb!

Ferngrove – Orchid Range – 2012 Reds

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

12^th August 2015

In my article last year on Ferngrove, I commented that the quality of the wines continued to be very good under the new Chinese owners: https://finewineclub.com.au/2014/06/12/ferngrove-june-2014/

Fast-forward 12 months, and it’s now time to review the latest (2012) reds released under the Orchid range. I am pleased to say that the wines are as good (if not better) than 2011, with the Cabernet, in particular, showing very strongly.

Stylistically, it is important to note that Kim Horton and the team have made serious wines here. They are approachable now, but will be at their best with 5 – 10 years in the cellar. For wines of this quality, the $32 RRP seems very reasonable.

Reviewed

Ferngrove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Majestic – 2012 (18 – 18.5). Very deep smelling, with menthol, blackcurrant and lovely spice-like aromas. Dark fruits feature on the palate, complemented by texturing tannins and oak on a finish that is quite chewy. This is really closed and tight, though the length of flavours is commendable. The fruit quality is excellent, but this needs years to reach its peak. The fruit really opened up with a couple of days in the bottle. (RRP $32).

Ferngrove – Malbec – King – 2012 (17.5+). Plump, succulent fruit with licorice, spice and cedar notes. The palate is fresh, with the refined fruit giving way to tar, chocolate and spice flavours. The savoury tannins and oak add to the finish. Refined and a touch linear now, this will flesh out with a few years in the bottle. (RRP $32).

Ferngrove – Shiraz – Dragon – 2012 (18). Beautiful, elegant and almost delicate fruit on both the nose and palate. Very long, the finish is fine and near seamless. With an almost Burgundian structure, this will fill out and build across the palate with time in the bottle. With plenty of air, this develops red fruits and licorice, with savoury plum notes. Will soften in time. (RRP $32).

Shiraz – New Release – August 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Shiraz – New Release – August 2015

The inclusion of several “pairs” of wines made this a really interesting tasting.

The first pair were Shingleback “Red Knot” Shiraz’s. It was remarkable to see how much the 2012 had filled out with the two extra years in bottle. Admittedly, 2012 was a great year, but no $15 wine has a right to drink this well after a couple of years in the cellar. The just released 2014 may be even better, and is sure to follow in its footsteps.

The other pair of note came from Shottesbrooke. Both were from the highly respected 2013 vintage, and both made in a similar fashion. But coming from different sub-districts, the differences were notable. The Jenkin’s Vineyard expressed cooler fruit characters in a reserved style, whilst the Blewitt Springs had lovely McLaren Vale fruit characters, albeit in a medium-bodied version.

Reviewed

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2012 (17.8). Sweet, succulent, almost perfumed fruit, with a savoury undertone. The palate is vibrant and plump, with enough acid and structure to keep the finish interesting, complementing the dense fruit and fine tannins. Lovely chocolate characters to close. Really smart drinking.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2014 (17.8). Fresh and vibrant fruit on the nose. The palate is only mid-weight, allowing the uncomplicated, lively and youthful fruit to be the main focus. There are fine tannins and a lick of oak to close. Excellent easy drinking now although a year or two in the cellar would not hurt at all. (RRP $15).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2012 (18). Perfumed vanilla notes abound on the nose, with quite pretty fruit. Quality fruit evident on the palate, with excellent acid and oak. The finish is very long, firm and almost chewy. Needs time to come together, but will reward the patient. (RRP $38).

Fifth Estate – Shiraz – 2011 (17.7). Closed and quite tight. The dense fruit has plum and chocolate characters, with menthol and a touch of black pepper on the palate. This is an impressively powerful and dense wine that coats the palate with layers of fruit and savoury oak. The length and persistence are noteworthy. Decent value. (RRP $19).

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Blewitt Springs – 2013 (18+). Beautiful sweet perfumed fruit on the nose. Pretty floral notes with a hint of vanillin oak adding depth. The floral fruit continues on the palate, with fine tannins and oak, along with well judged acidity adding drive and focus to the finish. Classic medium bodied McLaren Vale Shiraz, in an elegant form. Will age well. (RRP $50).

Shottesbrooke – Shiraz – Jenkin’s Vineyard – 2013 (18). Menthol and spice to open on the nose. The palate is dense and textured. The finish is chewy and structured, while the length is impressive. Deceptive, as while there is lovely forward fruit with air, the finish is very powerful. Drinking now or in 5 – 10 years. (RRP $40).

Affordable Pinot Noir

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

30^th July 2015

Affordable Pinot Noir

Notoriously difficult to produce, Pinot Noir remains the Holy Grail for many winemakers and enthusiasts alike. At their best, Pinots possess an almost ethereal quality, fanning out and caressing all parts of the palate.

Finding good Pinot Noir is difficult enough. Finding affordable Pinot Noir that offers good drinking is a great challenge.

Whilst none of the wines below are exactly cheap, they do offer a lot of interest at their respective price points. The Singlefile is a joy to drink, with supple fruit and a silky mouth-feel.

The Villa Maria is notable for the way it builds in the glass and bottle over time. This was at its best 2 – 3 days after being opened.

In contrast, the St Mary’s offers an insight into how regional influences can impact on the flavour profile of the wine. This wine speaks of its Limestone Coast origins, with menthol and eucalypt characters. Not a classic Pinot, but a really interesting expression of terroir!

Reviewed

Singlefile – Pinot Noir – 2013 (18). Beautiful, precise, perfumed Pinot fruit characters. The palate is silky and textured, with delicate cherry fruit over pretty floral notes. Subtle oak adds depth. There is excellent mouth-feel, with an expansive palate. A joy to drink now, but the quality fruit will build in the bottle for a few years. A bargain (RRP $33).

Villa Maria – Pinot Noir – Cellar Selection – 2012 (17.8). Really pretty colour. Ripe cherry fruit characters with savoury complexity on the nose. The palate shows cherry and plum, with decent depth to the fruit. Gentle grip from the oak and tannins adds mouth-feel, whilst a hint of stalkiness adds structure and interest. With air, the fruit builds nicely, so a few years in the cellar will not hurt. (RRP $40).

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – Limestone Coast – 2013 (17.4). Mint and eucalypt over dense, dark fruit, with decent power and intensity. The minty characters continue on a palate that is both intense and long. The fruit flavours linger and evolve for some time. Perhaps a touch of whole bunch fermentation, contributing to the rich fruit. More typical of the region than the grape, but an interesting wine ($35).

Brunello di Montalcino – 2010 Vintage

20^th July 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Situated in Tuscany, Brunello di Montalcino is a rising star in the world of wine. The wines were virtually unheard of 40 years ago until pioneer Biondi-Santi forged a reputation for fine wines and, in the process, dragged the whole region into focus. Traditional, rustic wines for local consumption gradually gave way to increasing quantities of ever improving reds made from Sangiovese. In recent years, the number of producers has expanded rapidly, with over 200 now available.

Unlike neighbouring Chianti, wines labelled as Brunello must be 100% Sangiovese. The Grosso clone used in the region also differs from that used in Chianti.

Wine quality is divided in to 4 categories. Apart from the generic Toscana IGT wines, there are

Rosso di Montalcino:

May be made from young vine fruit, or declassified fruit that is not suitable to be included in Brunello.
Another source is the lighter juice that comes of the press early, enabling the more concentrated/extracted juice to go into Brunello.
Requires a minimum of 12 months’ aging (6 months in oak) before release

Brunello di Montalcino

Aged in oak for a minimum of 2 years
Further aged in bottle for a minimum of 4 months
May be released after 4 years

Brunello di Montalcino – Reserva

Aged in oak for a minimum of 2 years
Further aged in bottle for a minimum of 4 months
May be released after 5 years

As in many Italian regions, there are divisions as to how Brunello should be made. Traditionalists argue that extended aging in oak is the correct method, whilst a new generation is looking to make fresher wines where the fruit is better preserved.

Thanks to the team at Lamont’s, I was able to taste my way through 24 Brunellos and Rossos. This was a unique opportunity to try a large number of these high-quality wines. It proved to be very informative, showing a variety of styles. All identifiably made from Sangiovese, but with an interesting mix of modern and traditional styles.

My suggestion would be to select a mix of wines and style, get a few friends over and have a look for yourself!

Caveats

This was not a blind tasting, so my points are an indication only
Prices quoted are RRP. The team at Lamont’s were offering generous discounts on the night, so it would be worth speaking to them directly
Quantities are limited

Rosso di Montalcino

Tenuta Buon Tempo – Rosso di Montalcino 2012 (17.8). Lovely balance between supple fruit and savoury structure on the nose. The palate has cherry, tobacco, spice and tar notes, leading onto chewy, textural tannins. This is an excellent wine, but ideally needs a few years in the cellar, or a hearty meal to make this really sing. A lovely wine and great value! (RRP $38.25, though is available for pre-orders from Lamont’s for $30).

Querce Bettina – Rosso di Montalcino – 2010 (17.8). There is more power and depth to the fruit on the nose than some tasted. Shows a combination of sweet and sour fruit notes. The palate has licorice, spice, cherry and plum. There is real depth to the fruit and the structure frames the fruit beautifully. Very long and savoury, this will be a lovely wine to drink over the next few years. (RRP $52.75).

Tenuta Buon Tempo – Rosso di Montalcino – 2011 (17.7). I really like the way the ripe, cherry fruit is balanced against savoury notes on the nose. The palate transitions from cherry to tar, with just a touch of perfume. There is a core of dense fruit here, but this quickly gives way to savoury, textural components. The finish is chewy, with tobacco, spice and excellent length. A wine that is actually quite age-worthy. (RRP $38.25).

Il Poggione – Rosso di Montalcino – 2010 (17.5). A wine that values savoury complexity over obvious fruit. That said, there is a core of decent fruit that reflects cherry and tar, with excellent length of flavour. From the mid-palate though to the finish, the structural tannins and oak come in to keep the fruit in check. A really smart wine that is drinking a treat, yet will age for a number of years. A very good value wine that deserves to be paired with a decent risotto. (RRP $33.95)

Argiano – Rosso di Montalcino – 2012. (17). Lovely vibrant hue here. The nose has a mix of ripe fruit and savoury notes. The palate is rich and vibrant, with just enough savoury notes to identify the origins. Whilst not mainstream in style, this would be a great introductory wine for people used to drinking Australian Shiraz. Good value and drinking now. (RRP $36.55).

Brunello di Montalcino

San Filippo – Brunello di Montalcino – Le Lucere – 2010 (18.5 – 19). Chewy, textural and powerful. The fruit really builds with air becoming rich and succulent. The fine tannins are prodigious, yet supple enough to let the fruit build on the finish. With tremendous length of flavours, this is a brilliant wine. Old fashioned, with high acidity, this is sure to age well, but is a wine that some Australian palates may struggle with. (RRP $119).

Tenuta Buon Tempo – Brunello di Montalcino – Alta – 2010 (18.5+). Wow, this is fantastic! Floral fruit on the nose is reminiscent of roses. This continues on the palate leading on to tar, spice, licorice and graphite notes. There are very fine tannins that express on the side of the palate/in the gums, adding texture and structure. Great length, with a chewy close, this has excellent potential. (RRP $110).

Villa 1 Cipressi – Brunello di Montalcino – Zebras – 2010 (18.5++). Really deep smelling, with concentrated, perfumed fruit. The floral notes are a real feature. The palate is flooded with mouth-watering fruit, transitioning almost seamlessly to supple savoury characters and fine, textural tannins. Finishes quite chewy and serious. Will be a delight with food now, but really needs 10 years to truly express itself. (RRP $122.00).

Querce Bettina – Brunello di Montalcino – Riserva – 2006 (18.5). Fantastic fruit on the nose. Perfumed, floral and spicy. The palate shows cherry, spice and plum, with supple structure. The very long finish is remarkably refined, with a touch of resin/varnish on the close. Silky, textural, spicy and long, this is drinking a treat right now. This is not a wine for everyone, but the traditionalists will love it. (RRP $146.50).

Le Chiuse – Brunello di Montalcino – 2010 (18.5). Quietly powerful fruit on the nose. The quality of the vintage really expresses on the palate. With air, this gets all savoury and interesting. The palate is textured, structured, powerful, long and dense. This is a very powerful wine, with the fruit carrying the savoury structure with aplomb. Excellent length, balance and presence from a wine produced from organically grown grapes. Needs years to hit its peak but will be worth it. (RRP $122.40).

Tenuta Buon Tempo – Brunello di Montalcino – 2010 (18 – 18.5). This is a really interesting blend of ripe fruit and savoury notes. The palate is fine and refined. Initially, the fruit is subdued, yet the structural components are very fine and almost silky. On the finish the cherry notes give way to tar and spice, the flavours lingering for what seems like minutes. Needs years to come around, but a lovely wine of real class. Don’t be afraid to try one now. (RRP $76.50, but likely to be discounted).

San Lorenzo – Brunello di Montalcino – Bramate – 2010 (18+). A lovely mix of ripe cherry fruit characters and supple savoury notes. The fruit quality is apparent on the palate, but the tannic, savoury notes really shut this down right now. This gets all savoury and chewy on the finish, with tar and graphite characters over dusty, chewy, textural tannins. A superior wine. (RRP $110.50).

Il Poggione – Brunello di Montalcino – 2009 (18+). Lovely nose that has enough fruit to make this beautifully perfumed, yet there is an undercurrent of savoury, spicy complexity. The palate is very structured and chewy, while the fruit is subdued and there are hints of varnish and resin to close. The finish is very long indeed. This needs many years to hit its peak, and will probably score higher in years to come. (RRP $102.55).

Villa 1 Cipressi – Brunello di Montalcino – 2010 (18+). Quite closed on the nose, but opens to show sweet, almost succulent fruit of real charm. The palate is bright and fresh, with graphite/pencil shaving characters over savoury, almost dusty fruit. The finish is notable for the fine, talc like tannins that linger with the sweet fruit slowly giving way to tar like notes. Very approachable now. (RRP $115.60)