Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Vasse Felix

Reviewed: 14th May 2014

Situated in the Willyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, Vasse Felix can lay claim to being the oldest producer of wines in this prestigious region. Established in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, the first release was the 1972 vintage.

Since then, the winery has gone from strength to strength as the range has been refined and stratified. The focus is now on three distinct pillars, Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, Chardonnay and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends. A consistent approach to stratification is also being gradually adopted.

At the top of the quality tree is the Heytesbury, (gold peregrine on the label). Currently, this is limited to the Cabernet and the Chardonnay. That said, Virginia Willcock and the team are working towards a Heytesbury SSB. A small batch was released from the 2011 vintage and the wine produced in 2013 is excellent. Time will tell if this will end up under the Heytesbury label.

Sitting just below this, from a quality perspective, is the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. These are set to be joined by a chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. (These wines have the burgundy coloured peregrine on the label and a burgundy capsule). The Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and “standard” Chardonnay sit below this. These wines will be re-labelled Filius from the next vintage to avoid confusion.

Finally, there is the Classic range with a Dry White and a Dry Red.

I rate Vasse Felix in the top five wineries in the region. Their wines are consistently outstanding. If you ask nicely, they may even give you a 20% discount for dozen lots at the cellar door, which makes the wines extraordinary value.

A special thanks must go to Francine and the team at Vasse Felix for making our visit so enjoyable.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013. Fragrant and complex with lovely lemon and lanolin notes. The grassy notes come out with air. Whilst fresh and lively, there is an undertone of complexity that comes from the 19% of fruit that was fermented in new oak. A small portion was also fermented on skins which helps to add depth to the palate.

Vasse Felix – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – “White Cap” – 2012. Made in a similar way to white Bordeaux: All fruit was fermented/aged in new oak for nine months with a further six months in older oak. 60% Semillon, a portion of the SB was fermented on skins. This is a powerful wine that is creamy and textured, with lemon curd, lanolin, minerals and a touch of struck match/flintiness. That said, this is a fine wine that will take some years in the bottle. Destined to become Heytesbury?

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2012. A very fine and delicate style that has lovely, peach-like stone fruit aromas. The palate is quite linear at present, reflecting the youthful nature of this wine. The limey acid provides excellent drive on the finish. Matured in a mix of new, one and two year old oak, though this is just a whisper on the finish. Really needs a year or two to fill out and open up. (Will be labelled Filius from 2013).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Burgundy Capsule – 2013. Very tight and restrained, with bright fruit and refreshing acidity. The palate is creamy, though the fruit is shy at present. The finish is near seamless, with supple oak adding depth and mouth-feel. Needs a few years, but will be worth the wait. Soon to be released, this is destined to be the first “burgundy capsuled” chardonnay.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2012. Very powerful nose blending stone fruit, pineapple and complex winemaker’s inputs (struck match minerality and creamy barrel ferment and lees aromas). The powerful fruit continues on a palate that is complex, balanced and very long. Seamless palate transition, with the texture really building on the close. A superb effort that retains freshness and poise. Lovely now, but better in a few years.

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2012. Always a delight to drink as this wine balances approachable fruit characters with a finish that is supple, textural and long. Destined to be the last semillon made by Vasse Felix as the fruit used in this wine will be used in the SSB going forward.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011. An excellent expression of this style, showing perfumed fruit with hints of violet and summer berries. The palate adds hints of leather, spice and earthy notes to the red fruits, with herbal notes and fine, supple tannins to close. Like many wines made from this blend in the region, this is made in a more approachable style. (Will be labelled Filius in future years).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011. Classic minty, blackcurrant fruit on the nose over spice and cedary oak. The palate is silky and very long, though this needs years to reach its peak. A very fine wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2011. The fruit and winemaking here is nothing short of spectacular. The nose is filled with fragrant fruit over supple savoury/spicy notes. This is a very complex wine. The palate is breathtaking, displaying fruit that is very powerful, yet refined and very elegant. The chewy, structural notes build on a finish that is silky, balanced and very long. An iron fist in a velvet glove. A brilliant wine that will comfortably take 20 years in the cellar.

 

New Release Reds – May 2014

Reviewed: 8th May 2014

There was an eclectic selection of pinot and shiraz here from a variety of countries.

The reviewed wines stood out for their balance, providing short term drinking pleasure, but also being capable of rewarding cellaring.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2011 (18). A lovely wine that balances perfectly ripe, though cooler region, fruit with supple winemaking. Hints of spice and cedar add complexity, but do not detract from the fruit. The finish is silky and very fine, with superb length and mouth-feel. Very well made.

Saltram – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Metala – 2012 (18). This is a really smart wine that combines quality fruit and slick winemaking. Lovely depth and intensity to the fruit with mint, eucalyptus and blackberry from the cabernet sitting over the ripe, plum-like shiraz. Cedary oak complements nicely. The finish is firm, suggesting that 5 – 10 years in the cellar will be rewarded.

Singlefile – Pinot Noir – 2013 (17.5 – 18). Quite firm, but with delicious red fruits. Cherry and supple spice to the fore on the palate. Long and balanced, this just needs a year or two for the grippy finish to settle and to really hit its straps. ($33).

Soumah – Shiraz – 2012 (17.8). Another cracking wine from the 2012 vintage in Victoria. The vibrant, ripe fruit leaps out of the glass, with cedar and spice to follow. The palate is fragrant, vibrant and supple with white pepper highlights. The fine tannins, whilst allowing the fruit to speak, build on the finish. An intense, youthful wine that should age well. (RRP $33).

Arivina Estate – Shiraz – 2012 (17.7). Dense, though not thick, chocolaty fruit here with savoury highlights. This is a rich, textured wine that has been well put together. The balance is maintained via fine tannins and supple oak, and there is excellent length. Will have broad appeal as it straddles the line between warm and cool climate fruit.

Great Southern – New Release Wines – April 2014

Reviewed: 29th April 2014

The Great Southern region of Western Australia comprises a number of subregions, including Mt Barker, Denmark and Frankland River. The region is rightly famous for its rieslings, but also produces exceptional wines from a number of other varieties. Some of the state’s most prominent producers make their top cabernet based wines from the region including Houghton (Jack Mann) and Howard Park (Abercrombie).

This tasting aptly demonstrated the variety of styles that are produce within the region.

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2013 (18). Very supple nose that combines gentle, ripe fruit with subtle oak and lees/barrel ferment characters. There is lovely minerality, which aids depth and complexity. There is stone fruit and citrus characters on the palate with just a hint of tropical fruit (pineapple and melon). The balance and finesse makes this wine a standout. A delicious, beautifully worked chardonnay from the Singlefile vineyard. (RRP $50).

Ferngrove – Riesling – Cossack – 2013 (17.5 – 18+). Lovely lime curd and lemon zest fruit here. This is a powerful wine, with taut minerality cutting through the fresh lemon and lime fruit on the palate. Excellent length and persistence, with fresh, brisk acidity that adds drive. Bone dry, this is a lively riesling that will age well. (RRP $23).

Xabregas – Shiraz – 2011 (17.7). Closed and shy, though the fruit here is of high quality. Coffee, mocha, chocolate, spice and cedar evolve on the palate. Very long with white pepper over dark plum and blackberry. There is latent power here and the texture builds, though time is needed to let it evolve. Deft use of oak adds to the package.

Singlefile – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume Blanc – Stoney Crossing Vineyard – 2013 (17.5+). A very complex nose that has lovely worked characters. The grassy fruit is overlaid with minerals, flint, struck match and lemony oak. Very youthful, though very long, this would be best with another year or two in bottle. (RRP $30).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – April 2014

Reviewed: 20 April 2014

This tasting offered up an interesting cross-section of cabernets from around the globe. I was pleased to see that the styles of the wines reviewed accurately reflected the region in which they were produced. This really added interest to the tasting, as the wines reflected the terrior in which the grapes were grown.

Highlights for me were the wines from Mildara and Chateau Lariveau. I am not sure if the later wine is available in Australia, but it is worth a try if you see it. The Mildara, on the other hand, should be widely available and is the best wine that I can recall under this label, (I am not lucky enough to have tried the 1963).

Reviewed

Mildara – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.5). There is lovely balance to this wine. The fruit is ripe, yet focused, with supple oak and tannins providing the framework. Very good length and quite a silky finish with the acid bringing the palate to life. Good now, but will be better with a few years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Moss Wood Vineyard – 2011 (18/18.5+). Complex herbal notes, with menthol and eucalyptus over ripe/precise blackcurrant fruit. The finish is quite tight, with the souring acidity and fine tannins providing drive, but obscuring the fruit at present. Will be better with 5 years in the bottle. Opened to show ripe cassis-like fruit and clove/star anise spice. This wine was the sleeper of the tasting and took a day or two to really hit its straps. (RRP $120).

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2010 (18). Menthol and cool region fruit characters. The palate is chewy and textured, but with fine tannins and good length. There is impressive fruit and winemaking, though it needs a little time to really come together. Powerful fruit, but with the structure to carry it. This is a very good wine that will only get better with time in the bottle.

Chateau Lariveau – Canon-Fronsac – 2010 (17.8). A lighter style, with fresh, souring red fruit characters. The winemaker’s inputs appear quite restrained, allowing the fruit to drive the finish. Raspberry and spice in a wine that is elegant and refined. With air, this really opened up to show quality fruit and deft winemaking.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Mamre Brook – 2011 (17.7). Savoury, lean, long and a touch herbal, reflecting the vintage conditions in 2011. Quite a dense, powerful wine, with tannins that are quite chewy, shutting down the fruit on the palate. That said, time will help here, as the fruit quality is excellent and the length impressive.

Yerring Station – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.5 – 18). A leaner style, with cool-area fruit that is ripe and restrained. Redcurrant, mint, subtle herbs and menthol all come through on the palate. The tannins are fine, though ample, leaving a talc-like texture on the finish. A very smart wine, that has years ahead of it.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 30th March 2014

Whilst I have no direct control over the wines that are submitted to the panel for tasting, the wines on display for this tasting were very impressive in general.  The wines came from some well known labels, as well as several that are new to me.

Reviewed

Henschke – Shiraz – Mount Edelstone – 2009 (18.5).  The silky elegance and balance came as a surprise here after some of the more robust wines tasted.  This is elegant, refined, long, supple and deliciously seamless.  Whilst everything is in place to age, this is great now thanks to the delicate fruit and fine tannin/oak balance.  A superior wine that will take 15 years + in the cellar.

Yalumba – Shiraz – Octavius – 2008 (18.5).  Lovely mint and herbal notes initially here.  There is, however, a core of dense, powerful fruit that starts to show with air.  The palate is silky and fine yet, again, the latent power is palpable.  The fruit flavours tend to red berries.  Chewy tannins and oak close down the fruit, but these are not intrusive or out of balance.  Develops licorice and spice with air.  Whilst the oak treatment is evident, it is in no way intrusive, sitting nicely with the high quality fruit.  Deserves its reputation. (RRP $110).

The Yard – Shiraz – Justin Vineyard – 2012. (18).  Great fruit and winemaking, yet the acid here is just a little fresh initially.  Opens to show plum and blackberry flavours with spice and hints of oak.  Very long and textured, this is a wine for the patient.  The next day, this was even better with delicious dark fruits that coat the tongue melding with very fine tannins on a near seamless finish.  (RRP $35).

Cross Stitch – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18).  I like this a lot.  Ripe red fruit with excellent balance.  The palate is silky and fine, with the gentle tannins complementing the fruit perfectly.  Really long, this is an elegant wine of considerable charm.  Good now or in five years.  (The points here are for the sheer drinkability). (RRP $22).

Willoughby Park – Shiraz – 2010 (17.9).  A dense wine full of licorice, spice and black pepper.  The finish is almost a touch awkward now, but is long and balanced.  Quality oak and fine tannins marry well with the fruit on the finish.  Opens to show sweet, ripe fruit that is seductive and delicious, with a lovely finish.  From the Great Southern. (RRP $22).

Izway – Shiraz – Rob & Les – 2012 (17.8).  This is a cracker of a wine, with a delicious mouthful of ripe plum fruit, yet with just enough structure to make the balance spot on.  This is juicy, ripe and totally delicious.  Not as “serious” as some here, but a great drink right now.  (RRP $30).

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2011 (17.8).  Closed, dense and powerful, this wine stands out for its quality fruit and winemaking.  Whilst it has lovely ripe fruit, it is refined, and initially quite subdued.  On the palate, the fine tannins shut down the finish though the length and texture are excellent.  With plenty of air, the lovely spicy fruit came to the fore.  A wine for the future.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Davey Estate – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Dense, taut and somewhat unyielding.  Hints of spice (clove and star anise).  The palate is firm, with fresh acidity, yet there are silky/refined tannins and oak and plenty of fine, white pepper to close.  This is an elegant, yet powerful wine that has potential.  Reflects the year with restrained, cooler climate fruit characters.  (RRP $23).

Crooked Brook – Shiraz – 2011 (17.5).  Ripe plum-like characters initially, yet with a core of elegant red fruits.  The palate has lovely mouth-feel and weight, and there is a lick of licorice that runs to the back of the palate.  Long and juicy, with fine tannins that frame the fruit.  Excellent drinking.

Rosemount – Shiraz – Diamond Label – 2012 (17.3).  Silky, dense, ripe and balanced.  This has souring plum-like fruit, with cedar and spicy notes.  The finish is plump and textured, with a touch of chocolate and coffee to close.  Not that dense or complicated, but a good drink.

 

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Reviewed: 27th March 2014

The dream run of vintages continues in the south west of Western Australia and the wines reviewed below deliver on the potential.

Of particular note was the Cullen Diana Madelaine.  Given the reputation of this producer, it is not surprising that it received gold medal points.  What was interesting however, was the way the wine presented.  Whilst recent vintages have been very austere, the 2012 is full of vibrant fruit.

Part of the story is told by the alcohol content.  At 13.5%, it is still at the lower end of Australian red wine, but it is at least a percent higher than the previous vintage.  Given the biodynamic nature of the vineyard, I assume that lunar cycle allowed for later picking dates than the year before.  Either way, the wine is a standout and can be enjoyed now or in 20 years.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Diana Madelaine – 2012 (18.5+).  Excellent depth here, with dark blackcurrant fruit that is rich, but not heavy.  The palate is silky and supple, with very fine tannins coating the tongue, but not interfering with the texture.  Excellent length and refinement on the finish.  A subtle wine, where the fruit is allowed to shine above the supple oak.  A lovely wine and the most accessible from Diana Madelaine for some years (13.5% alc).

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.8).  More peppermint here, with ripe, cool fruit characters.  There are also hints of eucalypt.  This is a leaner example that is more akin to Bordeaux in style.  Good length, but needs some time to add flesh to the bones.  The finish is elegant and supple, with ripe tannins. (RRP $60).

Xabregas – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Dense, dark fruits here.  Powerful and textured, with firm, yet fine tannins.  Prodigious length to the palate with blackberry and blueberry over savoury fruit.  The finish is incredibly long, the tannins drawing the palate to a close.  An intense wine that needs many years to show its best.  Worth a punt at around $30.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Lovely wine!  Combines ripe fruit with restraint and lovely texture.  A really complete wine that has sweet fruit, ripe tannins and supple texture on the finish.  Now or in 5 – 10 years. (RRP $30).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon/Touriga – 2009 (17.5).  An interesting blend that combines the minty cabernet with plump touriga fruit characters.  The nose has attractive, generous fruit that is ripe and rich, with some mocha notes.  Cedar, spice, camphor, mint, eucalypt and gentle, dried herbs evolve in the mouth.  A big style that will appeal to lovers of big, juicy reds.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2011 (17.5).  Blackcurrant, plum and cherry fruit on the nose.  The palate is savoury and tight, with the acid and fine tannins effectively shutting down the fruit initially.  Opens to show nicely ripe fruit characters with decent depth. (RRP $28).

Willoughby Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17 – 17.5).  What this wine lacks in initial generosity, it makes up for in restrained elegance.  Classic cool-climate cabernet that has mint and eucalyptus over blackcurrant and plum fruit, with chocolate and cedary oak highlights.  Not overly dense, but an attractive wine that offers value. (RRP $22).

A Taste of South Africa

Reviewed: 11th March 2014

Like many Australian’s my exposure to South African wines is very limited.  Whilst South Africa has a long history of producing fine wine, very limited amounts have made it to Australia.  This has often been at the cheaper end of the market.

Winestate Magazine recently hosted an extensive tasting of currently available wines for an up-coming review.  I took the opportunity to quickly taste through a wide variety of wines.

I was particularly interested in the Chenin Blancs.  They ranged in style from un-oaked to heavily oaked, with the lightly oaked wines of particular interest.

I have written previously that winemaking in South Africa ranges from rustic to very modern, and this tasting reinforced that view.  It also highlighted just how good value these wines can be (thanks to a very favourable exchange rate).

The majority of the wines were bottled under cork, with several of the bottles unfortunately showing unwanted characters.

The wines are not widely available, but Tuart Hill Liquor in Perth appears to have a good range.  Otherwise you can get in touch with one of the main importers AfriCape Wines (http://africapewines.com) or find one of the online retailers.

 

Reviewed

The Winery of Good Hope – Chenin Blanc – 2012 (16.8).  Light and fresh, with fresh citrus notes.  Decent length and texture, with a hint of spice to close.  ($12).

Ken Forrester Vineyards – Chenin Blanc – Old Vines Reserve – 2012 (17+).  Whilst the fruit is fresh and bright, this is a complex wine that has vanillin oak and barrel fermentation characters.  There is decent length on the finish, with a touch of phenolic grip that adds depth.

Stellenrust – Chenin Blanc – 48 – 2012 (17 – 17.5).  Oily and viscous, with a lovely almond meal character.  A complex, balanced wine.  ($37).

Jordan – Chenin Blanc – 2012 (17+/-).  Lemon and citrus notes, but the creamy oak and winemaker’s inputs are the main feature.  If you like a big, rich chardonnay, this is worth a try.

Old Vines – Chenin Blanc – The Bernard Series – 2012 (17.5+).  This wine reminded me of fine burgundy… only different.  Fine fruit has been married to quality oak.  Long and with minerality to close.

Klein Constantia – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17).  Very different to N.Z. SB. Textured, dry, creamy and long.  A food friendly style.

Kleine Zlaze – Shiraz – Family Reserve – 2009 (17.5).  Lovely shiraz fruit characters in a big, rich style.  Liquorice and spice complement the ripe fruit.  15% alcohol, but the fruit carries this easily.

Friedrich Laibach – The Founders Blend – 2011 (17.5).  An elegant red that is reminiscent of the wines of Bordeaux.  Long and lean, with fine tannins and mint/eucalyptus to close.

 

New Release Whites

Reviewed: March 1, 2014

An excellent range of aromatic white wines, all of which offer the ability to be cellared for at least a few years or, in the case of the Cherubino and Singlefile, long term cellaring.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongurup – 2013 (18 – 18.5).  Bottled lime juice!  Excellent fruit that is very dense and powerful.  An attractive wine that has, perhaps, a little assertive acidity right now.  The palate is very long and fine, but needs time to show its best.  Will age gracefully, and pointed accordingly.  ($35).

Seppelt – Riesling – Drumborg Vineyard – 2013 (18+).  Delicate, restrained, fragrant and near seamless, until the vein of taut acidity cuts through the palate.  This is a lovely wine that combines finesse and balance, with fine acid balance.  Tremendous length, with the merest hint of residual sugar that adds to the finish.  Length, fragrant, long, softness, aromatics, will age superbly.  (The vineyard was planted in1964.  $40).

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2013 (18).  Restrained and elegant, with steely minerality.  This is a very fine/subtle wine, though there is no doubting the quality.  In the mouth, the wine is complete, though the fresh acidity cuts across the talc-like minerality and apple/citrus fruit.  Excellent length to close.  ($25).

Ad Hoc – Riesling – Wall Flower – 2013 (17.9).  Fragrant honeysuckle and jasmine over a steely core.  The palate is very fine and long.  Whilst there is ample acidity, this is supple and silky, with good fruit to close.  Lingering, with just a touch of phenolic richness.  Not as concentrated as the best from Larry Cherubino, but an excellent wine all the same.  ($21).

Cherubino – Sauvignon Blanc – Pemberton – 2013 (17.5 – 18)  A complex nose that combines grassy fruit with barrel fermentation and lees characters.  The palate is flooded with lemony acid, though again, there are some complex winemaker’s inputs.  A smart wine that deserves some thought and decent food, rather than just quaffing.  ($35).

Rocky Gully – Riesling – 2013 (17.5).  Closed, with assertive acidity at first.  Underneath, there are lovely lime juice characters from the quality fruit.  Mouth-watering and very long.

Wynns – Riesling – 2012 (17.5).  A gentle wine that, whilst not as concentrated as some here, is long and satisfying.  Balanced, this is quite a delicate wine with fine acidity.  There are citrus notes and the potential to age well in the short to medium term.  Having said that, this is a good wine to drink now.  ($17).

Pinot Noir – New Release

Reviewed: February 14, 2014

The wines reviewed here are all worth a look.  If you love pinot, then the Shaw & Smith is an excellent wine.  If your budget is a little tight, then the Windy Peak is an authentic rendition at a bargain price.

For those of you that enjoyed the Whiz Bang shiraz, then the Duck Shoot pinot noir is the wine for you.  Made by the same team, this is a truly delicious wine that is a little richer and fuller than a typical pinot, but worthwhile all the same.

Reviewed

Shaw & Smith – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.5 – 18).  Limpid.  Lovely, red fruits to the fore with hints of strawberry and supple spicy notes.  Not that dense, but then again, does not need to be.  With air, the fruit really built depth and structure.  A delicious pinot that will benefit from a few years in the cellar.

Le Cirque Wine Co – Pinot Noir – Duck Shoot – 2013 (17.2).  Deeper colour than the others reviewed here and weightier too.  This wine straddles the border between varietal pinot noir and dry red wine, but manages to fall on the right side.  That said, this is a supple wine that is round and gentle in the mouth.  Very easy to drink, with soft, plump, juicy fruit.  A good wine for those who have grown up on Australian shiraz.  ($16).

King Estate – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17.5).  Closed/restrained on the nose.  The palate is quite refined and elegant, to the point that you have to search to find the defining fruit characters.  That said, this is a lovely wine that has finesse and charm.  Opens to show cherry, spice and floral highlights.  The palate is finely textured, with souring fruit characters adding drive and intensity.  Will be a lovely drink over 3 – 5 years.

De Bortoli – Pinot Noir – Windy Peak – 2012 (17.5).  A smart wine that combines cherry fruit with subtle, savoury notes.  Good depth and intensity, though this is at the lighter end of the fruit spectrum.  Quite elegant, refined and delicious.  Here is a sub $20 pinot that is worth trying.  ($15)!

Direct Import (Red) Burgundy

Reviewed: 7th February 2014

In a line up of 25 red Burgundies, the wines of Emilie Geanet stood out for their sheer quality. Admittedly, they are not the cheapest wines available, but they are certainly worth looking for if you enjoy quality Burgundy.

Reviewed

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Fixin – 2010 (17.4).  Pretty, perfumed fruit on the nose, but there is a degree of richness too with hints of cinnamon and apple.  The palate is chewy and just a little robust, with a dusty/chalky texture on the finish.  A feminine wine, with very good fruit quality and deft oak handling.  Needs a couple of years to settle.  ($90).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Cote De Nuit Villages – 2010 (17.5 – 18).  Very attractive nose that combines floral notes with gentle herbs and spice.  The palate is silky, supple, elegant and very long.  The mouth-feel really is a highlight with fine tannins framing the fruit.  An almost plush wine that provides immediate pleasure.  The oak use has added depth, but no overt characters.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Cote De Nuit Villages – 2011 (17.5+).  Almost new-world in style with pristine, ripe fruit.  Aromas tend to strawberry.  The palate is fresh and light, with a delicious, savoury twist to close.  Not overly dense, but a pretty wine that offers drinking pleasure.  The slightly sappy acid and spicy oak ensure that this will complement food well.  ($58).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – Les Evocolles – 2011 (17.8).  Very pretty wine that has vibrant/attractive fruit with supple, savoury/spicy undertones.  The palate is long and quite dense, with well handled oak.  Flavours tend to strawberry, with black pepper and earthy notes.  This is quite a savoury wine that can be drunk now with food, (decanting recommended) or cellared for a few years with confidence.

Domaine Thenard – Pinot Noir – Pernand- Vergelesses – Ile Des Vergelesses – 2010 (17.9).  Savoury/sappy wine of some charm, this is deceptively concentrated and long.  The finish is a highlight with the fruit and texturing oak fanning out across the palate.  Delicate fruit with hints of rose and red berries.  Very persistent, the supple/savoury close makes this an excellent drink.

Emilie Geantet – Gevrey Chambertain – Les Evocolles – 2010 (17.5).  Lithe, fresh and delicious, this is a supple wine that still has enough structure and depth to make it quite a serious drink.  The mouth-feel is a highlight, with succulent fruit that really lingers.

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grands Epenots – 2009 (18).  This is the most structured of the wines to date and a serious wine with poise and balance.  There is very good, quality fruit that has been expertly handled.  The cherry fruit is still tight and quite closed, but a little time will reward this handsomely.  Whilst approachable now, this will be better in 5 years.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2009 (18).  Structured and powerful, this has it all.  Ripe fruit, structured oak and fine, though prodigious tannins.  The length is superb.  This needs 5 years before being approached to allow the high quality fruit to emerge from behind the veil of structure.  Mouth-feel not quite silky, but still delicious.  Oak dominates the fruit now, but this will settle.  Very complex, with perfume, spice and hints of soya to close.

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevrey Chambertain – 1er Cru – Cherbaudes – 2011 (18-18.5).  Softer and more approachable with sweet, ripe fruit.  This is plush, rich and quite thick in the mouth.  Not viscous, just dense and layered with plum and cherry over anise, earthy notes and a touch of smoke.  An impressive wine now, given how approachable this is.

Thenard – Pinot Noir – Corton – Clos du Roi – Grand Cru – 2010 (18).  Closed, yet silky, this wine just hints at potential on the nose.  The palate is tight and fine, yet the fruit builds and lingers.  This is a serious wine that has been made for the future, not now.  Opens to show hints of strawberry, oak spice and gentle earthiness.  Ripe tannins frame the finish.

Thenard – Pinot Noir – Grand Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2010 (18.5).  A delightful wine that is closed and shy, yet delicate, attractive and full of personality.  This is a feminine style, with purity of fruit, yet it is restrained and silky.  Very fine fruit and winemaking, with hints of cedary oak rounding out the finish.  Superb mouth-feel and length, this is an exercise in balance.