Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

St Mary’s Winery – 2012 Vintage

Reviewed: 30th July 2013

There has been a lot of talk of late about the respective quality of the last few vintages in South Australia.  Despite the predictions of dire effects on the wines from the lesser years, I have seen a number of excellent wines from 2011, whilst the 2008 Grange (considered to be an atypically hot year) was recently awarded 100 points by Wine Spectator.

When it comes to the current release wines from St Mary’s, they all come from the 2012 vintage.  This vintage has been uniformly praised by winemakers and critics as being excellent in all major South Australian regions and is reflected in the quality of this year’s release.

St Mary’s is based in Penola in the Coonawarra region and they have quite a prestigious address (V&A Lane).  Interestingly, the Mulligans chose to label their wines as Limestone Coast, rather than Coonawarra.

A fascinating component of this tasting was looking at all the Bordeaux varietals vinified separately.  It gave me an insight into the various characteristics that the individual components can contribute to a blend.  Actually, this may make for an excellent dinner party activity where guests could be given the challenge of making the best blend!

For me, the highlight was the Pinot Noir.  I do not know of many pinots coming from the Limestone Coast, but this is an excellent effort that made the panel sit up and take note.

Reviewed

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.5).  Excellent clarity in the glass.  The nose opens with pretty red fruits that are supple and vibrant.  This is an attractive, succulent wine of some charm.  The finish is full of minerals and the texture is spot-on.  The fruit characters include cherry, strawberry, anise and a hint of white pepper.  Varietally correct and very well made.

St Mary’s – Merlot – 2012 (17).  Good quality fruit here that has been sympathetically made.  Good mouth-feel and texture to a wine that can be drunk now, or in five years.

St Mary’s – Petit Verdot – 2012 (17).  This is quite a dense wine that is packed with essence-like fruit and prodigious tannins.  This is a big, powerful wine that combines intense fruit with structure and density.  If you are going to drink this now, it needs a big steak to balance the acidity.  Given time though, this will soften and integrate into a classy wine.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Franc – 2012 (16).  Compared to the fleshy fruit that the merlot possesses, this is a “bony” wine that is angular and lean.  With this wine, you can really see the attributes that cabernet franc can bring to a blend, but at the moment, the acidity dominates the leaner, red fruit characters.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – House Block – 2012 (17.5+).  Balance is the key here.  This has bright red and black fruit characters set against a background of cedar, spice, aniseed and clove.  Long and mouth-watering, the bright acidity adds to the appeal.  Whilst it is not the finest wine here, it is one that has the most immediate appeal.  This wine would make a great match with food now, or will evolve and build for many years.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – 2012 (17.5).  Really deep smelling, with sour plum, spice and cedary notes.  This is well made, and the fruit is of good quality, though it needs a few years to soften and really come together.  The peppery fruit on the close rounds out a smart wine!

Chardonnay and Sparkling Wine – New Release

Reviewed: 25th July 2012

Reviewed

Sandalford – Chardonnay – Prendiville – 2011 (18 – 18.5). Another serious wine. Viscous, textured, balanced and almost chewy. The medium toast oak adds layers of complexity, along with subtle smoke and spice characters. Peach, stonefruit and minerals are the primary fruit characters and the wine builds complexity and depth with air. Superb!

Flametree – Chardonnay – S.R.S. (Wallcliffe) – 2012 (18.3). This is a superb wine, with high quality fruit and excellent winemaking. There is stonefruit, pineapple and citrus characters on both the nose and the palate. The oak is a little more noticeable, but is sympathetic to the fruit. This is a richer style that has immediate appeal, though the wine will continue to improve for a few years.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Margaret River – 2012 (18+). Peach and almond on both the nose and palate, with hints of lemon and tropical fruit. A viscous, crafted wine that combines finesse with drinkability. The length of fruit flavours on the finish is a highlight, and the mouth-feel and balance makes this irresistible. The oak only adds to the package. (Drink this while waiting for the wine from the Porongorups).

Thompson Estate – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). This wine has potential, hinting at floral fruit and peachy stone fruit. The acid here is fresh and keen, while the fruit builds in the mouth. This actually has quite rich fruit, though it just needs time to express itself. The silky oak adds texture rather than overt flavours and the length is outstanding. Harks back to Leeuwin Estate chardonnays of old.

Ferngrove – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.8). Subtle fruit on the nose. The palate is rich, viscous, complex and very long. The oak is present, but sits well with the finely crafted fruit. This is a wine of quality and shows sophisticated winemaking, which confers a lovely mouth-feel. The bitter almond astringency on the finish adds life.

Seppelts – Chardonnay – Drumborg – 2008 (17.7). Lovely, complex nose that has depth and interest. There is lemon and melon fruit notes. Cashew nut, white peach and nectarine on both the nose and palate. Developing, the oak fleshes out the finish. Not as lean as the “modern” style, though probably the best drinking wine today. (The 2011 is the current release).

Killerby – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.6). Clean, fresh and modern. The palate has presence, with quality fruit and excellent oak. Everything is in place, though it is quite lean now and needs a few years to flesh out.

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2012 (17.5/18+). Superb fruit, but in a package that is so tight and restrained that the acidity is quite piercing. Needs time or air to open up and allow the fruit to develop. This is pure and linear, with wonderful balanced and subtle fruit. Set up for a long future, this may well be the best wine here.

Grant Burge – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – NV (16.9). Quite developed nose and palate. The fruit here is quite rich, courtesy of the pinot dominant blend. A well made wine that has good length, nice acidity and reasonable complexity making for a convincing drink.

Angove – Chardonnay – Organic – 2012 (17). Quite a neutral wine that builds in the mouth. Shows lemony fruit that is fine, subtle and delicate. Refined, this really started to grow on me. Excellent value.

Western Australia’s Best Cabernet Region?

Reviewed: 20th July 2012

Everyone knows that Margaret River makes Western Australia’s (and possibly Australia’s) best cabernet based wines.  Right?  They certainly make the most high quality cabernets of any region in Australia.  The region also produces the highest number of quality wines as a percentage of the total volume produced.

But what about the Great Southern region centred around Frankland River?  Cabernet, after all, is not the main focus here.  The focus in the region is primarily on riesling and shiraz.  Cabernet plays a much smaller role in the region’s output.

The question of where the best WA cabernets come from was brought into sharp focus with the current tasting, courtesy of the new release wines of Larry Cherubino.  Here is a producer that has access to some of the best fruit in the state.  Submitted for the tasting were both the Margaret River and Frankland River cabernets under the Cherubino label as well as Frankland River cabernets under the Yard and Ad Hoc labels.

The Frankland River Cherubino was the star of the tasting and, at $110/bottle, was also significantly more expensive than the Margaret River version of the same wine.  In fact, when compared to the Margaret River wine, The Yard and Ad Hoc (Frankland) wines from the same producer represents excellent value for the quality on offer.

So Cherubino’s best (and most expensive) cabernet comes from Frankland River, but what about other producers?  Well, Houghton produces a number of very high quality wines from Margaret River, but their most expensive wine is the Jack Mann from Frankland River.  Separately, in a recent tasting of some of Margaret River’s finest cabernets, it was the 2010 Abercrombie from Howard Park (18.5 – 19pts) that stole the show.  The only problem was that this wine is also from Frankland!

So, in summary, three of Western Australia’s finest cabernet producers each source the fruit for their top wines from Frankland River and, in the case of Howard Park, this is my equal highest pointed cabernet of the year.

So to the rest of the tasting….

The wines from Xanadu are in top form and their current release cabernets are outstanding.  The standard release 2010 cabernet is an absolute steal at around $35, whilst their special release wines are stylish and very age-worthy.

This was a very high quality tasting with a number of excellent wines.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2011 (18.5).  An excellent wine that has a Jeckle and Hyde character.  Initially, this is very structured, with lean, precise fruit and a very long and drying finish.  This really builds in the glass to show full, ripe and dense fruit of the highest quality.  Flavour characters include mint, eucalypt and a touch of menthol.  An excellent, no-compromise wine that demands time in the cellar (or at least an hour or two in the decanter) if you are going to drink it now.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18/18.5+).  Very complex nose that has savoury characters balanced by fresh fruit aromas.  Think cedar, brambly blackcurrant, licorice, pepper and black fruits with earthy, forest floor highlights.  The palate is taut and austere, the acid, tannins and quality oak subduing the fruit.  Opens to show really dense, bright fruit with superb mouth-feel and structure. This wine is a star and is destined for a very long future.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stephens Road – 2010 (18.3).  Precise nose. Precise palate.  This is a superb wine, where the quality fruit has been carefully crafted in the winery.  Restrained mint and eucalyptus are present on both the nose and palate.  The oak is very fine and silky, though in combination with the tannins, serves to shut down the fruit.  Elegant and age-worthy.  (Made in tiny quantities).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2011 (18+).  Touch of sweet and sour here.  This is a much bigger, more textured wine than some here, with dense, chocolaty fruit.  Very long and persistent, with a somewhat chewy finish, though the balance is spot-on.  This demands time, or a big steak now.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (18).  Lovely minty cabernet fruit to open on the nose, with slightly dusty, cedary oak and a touch of herbs.  The palate has bright redcurrant, cedar and spice.  The oak is well married to the high quality fruit and the tannins, whilst firm, are not aggressive.  Quite a pretty wine now, but the best is yet to come, as the texture and mouth-feel build and replace the overt fruit characters.  Although it lacks a bit of joy now, give it time to open and I am sure the marks will get even higher.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (18).  Whilst there is no doubting the quality of fruit that has gone into this wine, it is a touch disjointed at present, with the fruit at odds with the oak and tannins now.  Chewy, textured and dense, this is a powerful wine.  Like a jigsaw, the pieces will come together over time allowing the full picture to be seen.

Ad Hoc – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Avant Gardening – 2012 (17.9).  Smart wine here.  This has lean fruit, courtesy of the cooler region, though the fruit is fully ripe.  The palate is powerful, taut and full of nervous energy.  The finish is more about the structure, as the oak and fruit tannins shut down the fruit characters.  Whilst this is quite user friendly, I would still recommend decanting now to drink with a steak, or give it a few years to hit its straps.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8).  Cedar and spice on the nose, with a core of ripe fruit and regional mintiness.  The palate is dense, thick and textured, a wine with plump, ripe fruit.  Opens with air to show lovely minty fruit, good texture and fine tannins.  The oak is present, but not overt and carries the finish well.  Quite a big wine that could be drunk now or in 10 years.

Thompson Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5-18+).  Quite subdued nose that merely hints at the potential of this wine.  The palate is drying, long, savoury, restrained, fine and elegant, with dusty tannins framing the finish.  Beneath it all is serious, opulent fruit and good line and length in the mouth.  Just needs time to show its best.

Bussell – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – JG – 2011 (17.9).  A lovely wine that has ripe cabernet fruit as the focus.  The winemaking has been very sympathetic to the high quality, refined fruit, with the oak providing a framework in which the fruit sits.  Hints of mint and eucalyptus to close on a long, lingering finish.  Real potential here.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Il Cavaliere – 2010 (17.5).   Aromas of redcurrant and cedar to open.  Thick, dense fruit up front in the mouth, but the middle palate is quite subdued at first, with the tannins really closing this down.  Genuine Bordeaux style.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – Y series – 2011 (17.3).  Blackcurrant, cedar and cool climate fruit on the nose, with redcurrant fruit to close.  This is very persistent and elegant, the precise fruit well matched to the oak.  Good length, but needs 5 years to hit its straps.  Good value.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Unison – 2011 (17).  A solid wine that has lovely, cool climate, cabernet characters.  Mint, eucalypt and herbal notes to the fore on the nose, and these flow through to the palate.  The oak sits well with the ripe fruit and there is enough structure to take some aging.

Master of Wine – Warm Up Tasting

Reviewed: 1st July 2013

I had the opportunity to attend a Master of Wine (MW) exam practice tasting recently.  Brendan Jansen, who is an occasional contributor to these pages, recently sat his second part tasting exams and wanted to do a quick palate check before flying out.  Brendan put together a smart tasting to help him focus his thinking.

The MW qualification is uniquely challenging.  There are less than 300 people alive world-wide who have passed the examination process.  Brendan argues that becoming a doctor was much less challenging than the MW process!

As an observer, one of the biggest hurdles appears to be the financial aspect.  Candidates need to taste very widely. Indeed, they need to be experts in all the great wine regions around the world.  The cost of tasting the great wines appears very prohibitive to me.  Candidates also need to cover all the other major regions, including those that are not known for quality wine.  (This is also a big hurdle for me :).

With the current tasting, Brendan asked a series of questions.  With the Chablis for example, the aim was to examine the characteristics of each wine to establish the features that a 1er Cru wine possesses that separates it from a Village wine etc.

Reviewed

Sylvain Mosnier – Chardonnay – Chablis – 2010 (17+).  Attractive, lemony fruit on the nose.  The palate is quite lean, but really builds in the mouth.  Textured, but more perhaps from lees stirring rather than new oak.  The wine has good attack and mouth-feel, the minerals a gentle kiss on the finish.  Excellent value current drinking.

Sylvain Mosnier – Chardonnay – Petit Chablis 2011 (16.6).  Closed, cold, but with potential evident on the palate.  Lean, but also linear, with little in the way of winemaking influences.  The palate is quite good.  While there is not much in the way of fruit density, there is a slipperiness to the fruit and good acid to close.

Sylvain Mosnier – Chardonnay – Chablis – 1er Cru – Beauroy – 2010 (17.8/18).  The most powerful of the three and a wine of real presence.  The nose has perfume and even honeysuckle aromas.  This has more richness and density to the fruit, while the winemaking influences are more pronounced.  There is a nice nutty character to the palate as well as the typical minerality and a hint of curry leaf.  The finish is dense and textured, with an almost chewy mouth-feel.  The oak is present, but not overt.  A very enjoyable wine that will take 3 – 5 years to really fill out.

Marcel Martin – Sauvignon Blanc – Touraine – 2009 (17).  Aromatics are gentle on the nose, but more pronounced on the palate.  Very French in style, the richness of the fruit is balanced by tangy freshness.  The palate has honeyed minerality, is nicely developed and the finish is round and quite rich.  Long, the acid really carries the fruit weight through to the finish.  Drying, this leaves me wanting another sip.

Baland-Chapuis – Sauvignon Blanc – Sancerre – Le Chatillet – 2011 (17.7).  Very drying wine that is more about texture and mouth-feel than overt fruit.  This builds in the mouth and is a wine of some depth and power.  Whilst very drying, the finish is balanced and persistent.  Ideally suited to food now, a few years will see this come into its own.  A lovely wine.

Chapoutier – Marsanne – Hermtiage – Chante Alouette – 2007 (17.5).  Nice aromatics here, with pineapple, almond, apricot and cinnamon.  Textural finish that, whilst not overly long, is very persistent.  There is a touch of smoky bacon to close. Interesting wine that has supple fragrant fruit, though the texture really is the key here.

Philippe Gimel – Grenache/Shiraz – Saint Jean Du Barroux – 2007 (18.3).  Lovely perfumed nose of roses and spice.  The palate is sweet and ripe, with a seam of tar and rosewater on the mid palate.  The texture on the finish is a highlight.  Very long, the dusty tannins caress rather than dominate adding depth and texture to the very long palate.  A superb wine now, or in 5 – 10 years.

Norton – Malbec – Privada – 2007 (18).  Amazing colour that is very deep, yet brilliant red.  Dense, impenetrable nose.  The palate is redolent of coffee, chocolate and ripe fruit.  The finish is powerful, viscous, textured and chewy, showing licorice and vanilla oak to close.

Alamos – Malbec – 2011 (17.5).  Elegant, tight and  restrained.  The nose on this displays quality blackcurrant fruit, mint and pencil shavings oak.  The palate shows quite tight, sweet fruit and oak.  The fruit is rich and dense, the palate showing superb mouth-feel and presence, though in a more forward style.

Chateau Dufort-Vivens – Cabernet Blend – Margeaux – 2nd Growth – 2009 (17.7/18.2).  The balance is the key to this wine.  There is quality fruit on the nose, with hints of dried herbs adding complexity.  Bay leaf and spice come forward on the palate and the length and texture are excellent.  Classic Bordeaux that needs time to build.

Buller – Muscat (Petit Grains) – Fine Muscat – NV (17.5).  Lovely amber hue that still has life to it.  The nose is very intense, with Christmas cake / plum pudding aromas.  The palate is intense and deep, yet in no way cloying.  Incredible length and persistence with enough acidity to balance the fruit.  I defy anyone not to like this wine.  At $10 from Dan Murphy etc., this is a steal!

Cockburn’s – Late Bottle Vintaged Port – 2006 (17.8).  Incredibly dense colour.  The nose is deep, rich and powerful.  Whilst an LBV, I am sure that this will still age for some time.  There are bright red fruits and a wonderful, spicy texture.  Long and near seamless, this is a lovely wine.  Intense fruit on both the nose and the palate.  The finish is almost chewy, yet silky.

Shiraz – New Release

Reviewed: 26th June 2013

As the weather has turned and the temperature has dropped, the panel took the opportunity to look through a strong shiraz line-up. The cooler weather presents its own problems though, as the temperature of the wine influences the flavour profile, which can change the wines characters quite dramatically.

The wines for this tasting were served at 18.5 degrees. This is an ideal temperature to drink red wine, though when first opened, the fruit aromas can be somewhat subdued. As a number of the wines were from cooler regions, the structure of the wines was highlighted.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle – Shiraz – 2011 (18.3). This wine is closed and tight, yet incredibly fine and superbly made. The fruit quality is outstanding as is the winemaking. The finish is seamless, silky and very long. This is classic cool climate shiraz, though the degree of refinement is second to none. Dense, ripe, yet closed and restrained, this needs 2 hours in a decanter, or two decades is the cellar!

Howard Park – Shiraz – Leston – 2010 (18). Classic nose that balances ripe, yet restrained fruit with gentle cedary spice from the quality oak. Pepper, clove, star anise and Asian five spice are all expressed, yet the beautifully ripe fruit sits comfortably over the spice. The finish is textured and firm, suggesting that 5 – 10 years in the bottle will allow this to blossom. Another excellent wine from Howard Park.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2010 (18). The sweet fruit in this wine sets it apart from the other wines tasted to date. This has classic McLaren Vale richness with hints of coffee and chocolate. On the palate, these characters follow through, though the finish is actually quite tight. The quality oak has been well matched to the fruit and the textural components are silky and refined. Well balanced, this would take a steak beautifully, but is sure to age for many years. An excellent wine from a great vintage.

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Black Dog – 2010 (18). Opens with licorice, spice and supple oak. On the palate there is excellent length and depth. The wine is closed down by the very fine tannins, though the balance is excellent. Excellent mouth-feel and texture supports the high quality fruit, and there are hints of mocha to close. A powerful wine that reflects the region very well.

West Cape Howe – Shiraz – Two Steps – 2011 (18). Impressive fruit here. Opens with intense licorice, plum and spice on the nose. Flows on to a palate that is powerful and firm, yet remarkably silky and fine. Though this is quite muscular, the cooler region fruit gives it a more restrained finish. The oak and tannins flatten the finish now, so a few years in the cellar will really pay dividends.

Killerby – Shiraz – 2011 (17.8). Real depth to the fruit on the nose, though the aroma profile is not mainstream (courtesy of the cooler region fruit). The palate is a touch awkward now, though the underlying fruit quality is very good. I like the finish here as the fruit and oak combine well leaving a supple, silky trail through the back palate. Quite bright and full of charm, this opens to show coffee/mocha notes and has a very spicy finish. Will be very good in time.

Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2012 (17.5). Much lighter and less intense than many here, though the wine has been made very well. Almost purple tinged, the wine is juicy, succulent and deliciously fruit driven. A great mid-week drink and superb value. (Should be available under $15).

Pinot Noir – New Release

Pinot Noir – New Release

Reviewed: 23rd June 2013

A couple of interesting pinots from Dalrymple came in during the week, so I put together a small bracket to see how they came up. Dalrymple is a Tasmanian winery and the fruit for all three wines came from the Coal River region. The quality across the range was very high, with the wines offering an attractive blend of fruit and spice.

For me, the standard wine represents the best value ($35). There is a noticeable increase in sophistication with the Cottage Block ($45) and the Block CV90 ($55), but this comes at the expense of approachability today. Try all three and see for yourself.

Reviewed

Dalrymple – Pinot Noir – Cottage Block – 2011 (18+). Pretty, floral fruit on the nose. The palate is floral, but there is real persistence to the fruit and a surprising degree of depth. This is a very smart wine, with the cherry and spice characters from the fruit lingering for a very long time. Tannins and oak are very fine and complement the fruit well. A very finely crafted wine.

Dalrymple – Pinot Noir – Block CV90 – 2011 (18/18.5). A touch closed and reductive to start, but this wine has quality fruit and it has been deftly handled. The finish is slightly chewy at first, but with air, it builds depth and the fruit becomes more vibrant in the glass. The fine tannins suppress the finish slightly, so give this some air or a few years in the bottle.

Squitchy Lane – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18). The nose on this is very classy, showing a lovely blend of ripe fruits and more savoury characters. The palate is quite firm, with souring acid that sets this up well for food. Long and supple, this is the most food-friendly pinot here. The next day, this wine really hit its straps, showing depth and possessing a generosity of fruit that made it a joy to drink with a hearty seafood stew.

Dalrymple – Pinot Noir – 2011 (17.8). Pristine and focused fruit on the nose. The palate is supple, though quite linear at present. There is good depth to the fruit and the finish is very silky. The winemakers have worked very well with the fruit weight, as the oak is of high quality and sits behind the fruit. A very good Australian pinot that drinks well now.

 

Beaune and Beyond

Hosted by Phillip Rich at Lamont’s in Cottesloe

Reviewed: 3rd June 2013

I must admit that I had reservations about attending this tasting as I had spent the day working in Sydney and had flown in just in time to attend. The thought of a hot shower and warm bed was very appealing. I am so glad that I did attend though as it was a fantastic evening.

Phillip Rich was in town to showcase a range of wines that he imports in to Australia. Two things made the night so enjoyable. Firstly, the wines ranged from very good to spectacular. The red Burgundies from Hudelot Noellat in particular were nothing short of spectacular.

The other factor that made the night so enjoyable was our host. Phillip is a warm and engaging speaker. He shared his great knowledge with us in such a way that it felt like catching up with an old friend.

If you get the chance to attend one of his tastings in the future, jump at it. I am sure you will enjoy the experience as much as I did.

NB. This tasting comes with the usual caveats. It was not a blind tasting (and I had a lot of fun), so please use my points as a guide only. Wines are available in limited quantities from Lamont’s and other select independent retailers.

  • Tasted:        16
  • Reviewed:   11

Reviewed

Pierre Peters – Champagne – Chetillons – 2005 (18 – 18.5). A very impressive wine that balances delicate floral notes with complex autolysis characters (brioche, bread dough etc.). The palate is very subtle, showing balance and poise. Youthful and quite lean, this needs time in the bottle to really open up.  To get the most out of this wine now, try letting it warm up in the glass a little as this lets the pristine chardonnay fruit really shine.

Copain – Chardonnay – Tous Ensemble – 2011 (17 – 17.5). Delicate lemony fruit that is quite taut and linear at first. An elegant, modern style that opens up to show grapefruit and nectarine characters. The finish is elegant and quite seamless. Don’t serve to cold.

Copain – Chardonnay – Laureles – 2011 (17.5 – 18). Compared to the Tous Ensemble, there is a real step up in richness here. There is still the grapefruit and citrus notes, however the mouth-feel and texture are the real highlights. Finishes with lemon pith and precise minerals. A lovely drink.

Copain – Pinot Noir – Tous Ensemble – 2010 (17.5+). A lighter hue here. Lovely red fruits to the fore, with red cherries and lifted perfume. The palate is very pretty and has good texture and structure. Good length and intensity on the finish rounds out the package. A wine to enjoy now and, as such, represents quite good value

Copain – Pinot Noir – Kiser En Haut  – 2010 (18+). This wine still has the lovely perfume of the Tous Ensemble, though there is more depth and structure to the fruit and the mouth-feel is more textural. Whilst this is a lighter style compared to a NZ pinot, there is superb intensity, density and an elegant structure to the palate. A balanced and youthful wine that has intrinsic fruit power and is very age-worthy.

Copain – Pinot Noir – Kiser En Bas  – 2010 (18 – 18.5). This is a compelling wine that blends many of the characteristics of the previous two wines from Copain. Both the nose and palate display lovely perfumed fruit, silky mouth-feel, cherry fruit notes and fine oak handling/ lovely souring acid. A wine that balances fruit and structure expertly. A wine that can be drunk now or in 5 years.

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Cornish Point – 2010 (18.5). Gorgeous nose that has sweet fruit that is balanced by complex cherry and spice aromas.  Real density and serious fruit weight is apparent on the palate. The oak is evident now, but complements the fruit very well. A delicious wine that offers a degree of generosity that only the new world seems to achieve. Put in to the tasting as a yardstick, and very nearly stole the show.

Hudelot Noëllat – Pinot Noir – Vosne Romanee – 2011 (18). In the glass, this wine has a lovely, vibrant colour. The nose is dense, earthy and weighty, yet retains a lovely perfumed character. The palate is supple, fragrant and spicy, the depth of the fruit evident in the texture and mouth-feel. With excellent length and wonderful balance, this wine actually represents good value at around $90!

Hudelot Noëllat – Pinot Noir – Beaumonts – 1er Cru – 2011(18.5+). This has a classic Burgundian nose that, like the Vosne, has fragrant, perfumed characters sitting atop the dense fruit. Opens up to show sappy sour cherry, spice and earthy notes. The palate here is spectacular, with superb fruit that is balanced, very long and near seamless. The structured nature of the finish suggests that this should continue to develop well in the bottle. Brilliant wine.

Hudelot Noëllat – Pinot Noir – Clos de Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2011 (18.7). Even more density to the colour here and the fruit is much more closed than the Les Beaumonts. Whilst this is fresh and supple, with almost new world richness to the fruit, the wine is dense, structured, powerful and tannic. A truly great wine, but one that needs 5 – 10 years in the cellar to start to express itself.

 

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 Vintage

Reviewed: 4th June 2013

One of the local wine groups recently hosted a tasting of many of the best 2010 cabernets from Margaret River. This presented a wonderful opportunity to look through a very strong line up.

Margaret River has been blessed with many good or great vintages starting in 2007 and continuing to 2013. 2010 is considered by many to be one of the best!

There were a couple of real highlights. None more so than the Abercrombie from Howard Park. This is right up there with the best young Australian cabernets that I have tried. The others were the Penfolds Bin 707 (Iron fist in a velvet glove) and Xanadu (Outstanding value). I note that the 2009 Xanadu cabernet topped a recent tasting in Gourmet Traveller, so this outfit is obviously in great form!

The tasting served to highlight the consistent quality of the vintage, as well as the superb standard of Western Australian cabernets.

  • Tasted:                  21
  • Reviewed:            12

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2010 (18.5 – 19). This is a beautiful wine! The nose has perfumed, fragrant fruit that is beautifully ripe and balanced. The palate is silky, supple and refined and the finish near seamless. The length is outstanding, as is the wine-making. The balance really is the key to this wine. The finish has powerful, yet silky tannins. I can only guess at how long this wine can be aged, but it may well outlive me.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 – 2010 (18.5 – 19). This is a superb wine as it combines fruit that is concentrated and powerful with elegance and sophistication. The superb fruit is redolent of blackcurrant, with hints of cassis. Supple, fine and round in the mouth, the tannins and oak add depth and texture without overwhelming the fruit. Superb balance here and a wine built for the long haul.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). Concentrated fruit on a nose that is classic cabernet. The palate is powerful and structured yet has plenty of red fruits. Long and savoury, this is a wine that is all about potential. Everything is in place, it just needs 10 years to start to evolve and build. Will be very long lived.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). Now this is a great effort! Superb fruit quality has been matched to very fine oak and slick wine-making. This is elegant and refined, yet there is latent power palpable on the palate. The finish is very long and near seamless, the oak texture adding density to the fruit. This may well be the bargain of the year.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2010 (18.5). I could define this as an elegant monster. Refined, fine, tight and structured, this has superb wine-making, balance and composure. Underneath the refined exterior is a wine of tremendous power and concentration. The fruit is of the highest quality, yet the finish is quite subdued now. In 10 – 15 years, this may well be one the best wine here.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (18.5). Cooler fruit aromas that combine minty red fruits with a touch of eucalyptus and herbs. The palate is quite shut down by the acids and tannins, yet the fruit is supple and fragrant, complementing the structure very well. Not mainstream, yet a very compelling wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scottsdale – 2010 (18.4). Opens with hints of menthol and jubes. This is a delicious wine that has ripe, yet cool climate fruit combined with slick wine-making. The very long palate has a slightly chewy finish. The density of fruit is deceptive and the tannins are very fine, though ample. A great each way bet, as this is good drinking now, but is also sure to age well.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2010 (18.3). The fruit here is fine, fragrant, supple, bright, long and savoury. The bright acid carries the finish, where the tannins are soft, yet palpable. A lovely wine of elegance and class, though a few years would really be of benefit.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18.2). Menthol and a touch of herbs on the nose suggest a cooler sub-region or vintage. The palate is bright and fine, yet taught and tightly wound. The cooler region characters are also present on the palate, yet this is beautifully ripe and supple. The palate is only medium weight, yet there is real presence and excellent length and persistence. Drinks well now, but sure to age for many years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2010 (18++). I like this for the balance of dense fruit and elegant structure. This is somewhat of a sleeper, as the fruit density on the mid palate is a touch lean, yet all the elements are in place for this to blossom with time in the bottle. Blackcurrant, cedar, spice and very fine tannins all flow on a finish that, whilst not seamless now, is very seductive all the same.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2010 (18). Lovely fragrant red fruits that are a touch softer and more straight forward than some here. The bright fruit combines on the palate with complex savoury characters, supple oak and fine tannins. The length is outstanding and the structure really evolves and builds in the mouth. Did I mention that this was long? (Excellent value from Margaret River).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – 2010 (18). This is quite a subtle wine on the nose, though the palate has plenty of life courtesy of the bright acidity. This is quite lean initially, and Bordeaux lovers will appreciate the structure. Opens to show real potential. An elegant wine with real finesse.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – 2011. (17.8+). Youthful, closed and tight on both he nose and palate, this has eucalyptus and hints of menthol. Cedary oak is quite prominent on the finish, though the fruit is visible through the tannins and acid. This needs time to evolve as there is excellent fruit and wine-making. (Another ring in from 2011).

 

Magnum Lunch

Fraser’s Restaurant

24th May 2013

Eighteen wine enthusiasts, twenty one magnums of outstanding wine and one of Perth’s best chefs recently combined for a truly memorable experience. No occasion was needed to bring a remarkable collection of both wines and people together for the second magnum lunch at Fraser’s Restaurant in Kings Park.

The lunch was conceived by John Jens, but it was Bob Winterbottom who made the lunch a reality. Bob set the guidelines for what wines could be brought and coordinated selections to ensure that there was a spread of wines from various styles. Once the list was finalised, Bob passed this on to Chris Taylor at Fraser’s. Chris developed a spectacular meal that complemented the wines superbly.

There were so many vinous highlights that it seems unfair to give the wines points. Needless to say that many of the wines would have been awarded gold medals. I will go out on a limb and say that the line-up was one of the best collections of wine that I have tasted in years.

One highlight for me was the bracket of Corton Charlemagne’s from Bonneau du Martray. It was fascinating to see how the style has evolved over the last few years. The 2008 was drinking spectacularly, but the 2010 was, quite possibly, the greatest wine of the tasting.

Another highlight was the three Second Growths from Bordeaux. Whilst the quality of the 2000 vintage was superbly highlighted by the Leoville Barton and the Cos d’Estronnel, the 2001 Leoville Las Cases was also a superstar.

The food that was prepared to accompany the wines was uniformly superb. For me, the highlight was the roast whole pig! A special mention must go to William and Bronwyn from Fraser’s who provided us with superb service throughout the event.

Ultimately though, it was the company of the other 17 wine tragics who attended that made the day so memorable.

How soon can we do it again???

Champagne

We started the lunch on the restaurant forecourt where Chris shucked Ceduna oysters as we sipped on the four Champagnes. It was a perfect start, the picturesque backdrop only adding to the sense of occasion.

Pol Roger – Champagne – 1996. This wine stood out for its great finesse and balance. Yes, it was fully mature, but there was still life and vitality. A great way to start. (From Magnum).

Krug – Champagne – NV. Remarkably, this had spent 11 years in bottle since it was purchased. Fully mature, complex, rich and finely balanced, this was a great drink and perfectly complemented by the ocean tang of the oysters. (From Magnum).

Dom Perignon – Champagne – 1990. Unfortunately, the cork on this spoiled the party. (From Magnum).

Dom Perignon – Champagne – Oenotheque – 1996. Unbelievably fresh and tight, the lemony citrus characters leading the charge on both the nose and the palate. This needs years to reach its drinking peak but is a superb wine!

Barsac

The pairing of the Climens and the parfait was an inspired combination. The silky texture of the parfait was the perfect foil to the wines richness.

Chateau Climens – Barsac – 1995. Balanced, precise, rich (though not in any way cloying) and very long. Apricot, almond and marzipan combine with wonderful spice notes on both the nose and the palate. Whilst this is superb now, it will last for many more years.

White Burgundy and Chablis

Given the refinement of the wines in this bracket, I was concerned that the mushroom risotto that accompanied it would overwhelm the fruit. In reality, the risotto was remarkably delicate and refined, adding a lovely backdrop to the whites.

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004. A very complex wine, the minerals and honey on the nose combined well with the toasty, developed characters on the palate. Powerful, intense and very long, this has developed very nicely. (From Magnum).

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2008. Sublime drinking here. Grapefruit and lemony acid lead onto complex mineral characters, spice and a hint of curry leaf. Outstanding drive and length to a wine that is great now, but will also develop well for a few years. (From Magnum).

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2010.  Precise, focused and tight, this is a restrained and silky wine that flows seamlessly to a very long finish. A stunning wine and one of my favourites for the day. (From Magnum).

Domaine Francois Raveneau – Chapelot – Chablis – 1er Cru – 2009. Very tight, lean and racy, with lemon, nectarine and citrus rind notes. Outstanding length to a wine that needs 5 years to really start to hit its straps. (From Magnum).

Domaine Baron Thenard – Le Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2007. Opens with really tangy citrus notes. A very powerful wine that has subtle minerals and a very fine texture. Creamy and very long, this is a superb wine of power and restraint. Will age for years, but this is sublime!

Blain Gagnard – Batard Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2006. This is a very powerful wine, though the nose is remarkably tight at present. A big wine that still needs a few years for the powerful fruit to fully integrate with the oak and show its best. (From Magnum).

Red Burgundy

The Burgundies were accompanied by a complex and artistically prepared dish of braised lamb. A delicious dish, with the natural acidity of the wines complementing the richness of the food.

Pousse d’Or  – Volnay – 1er Cru – Caillerets – 1990. This bottle had, perhaps, seen better days as it was very earthy and old fashioned. (From Magnum).

Armand Rousseau – Ruchottes-Chambertin – Grand Cru – Clos des Ruchottes – 2007. Silky, sweet fruit with pepper and lovely spice highlights. The texture, balance and power have all the hallmarks of a great wine! Despite the powerful fruit, this is elegant, refined and very long. A great wine!

Mommessin – Clos de Tart – Grand Cru – 2008. Pepper, spice and cinnamon come to the fore here. Superb length and balance combine with a silky texture to make this a stunning wine. (From Magnum).

Mongeard Mugneret – Clos de Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2005. Leaner and more structured than the Clos de Tart, this is still youthful, long, fine and powerful. There are cherry fruit notes, while the finish fans out like the proverbial peacocks tail. A superb wine that is immensely long. (From Magnum).

Bordeaux and Dry Reds

From a food perspective, the roast pork that accompanied the bigger reds was spectacular. The crispy skin combined beautifully with the succulent meat. There were Asian cues to the preparation with galangal being an integral part of the seasoning.

In many respects, this dish stole the show!

Chateau Léoville Las Cases – St Julien – 2001. A brilliant wine, though the fruit is wrapped up in a very structured cloak. The tannins are firm, though very fine, while the supple oak complements the fruit perfectly. A powerful wine that will last for years, yet is a joy to drink now. (From Magnum).

Chateau Cos d’Estournel – St Julien – 2000. This is a great wine. The fruit is sweeter than the Las Cases (perhaps reflecting the year), though the wine is still very powerful. Wonderful length and texture, the fruit framed by very fine tannins. A complete wine. (From Magnum).

Chateau Leoville Barton – St Julien – 2000. Another stunning effort. This wine is silky and supple, with wonderful tannin and oak management. The most structured of the three St Juliens, this is masculine and very youthful. (From Magnum).

Joseph Phelps  – Eisele Vineyard  – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1986. Perhaps more than any wine here, the Phelps polarised the group. Spectacular fruit quality and power, but the wine initially appeared a little rustic and old fashioned courtesy of a touch of Brettanomyces. Certainly evolved in the glass and improved significantly as it opened up. (From Magnum).

J L Chave – Hermitage – 1983. This wine is totally, seductive, elegant and fully mature. The palate is defined by its finesse and length, the acidity providing drive right through to the close. From a drinking point of view, this wine was my favourite of the reds! (From Magnum).

Finally

At the end of such a spectacular lunch and with plenty of red wine still on the table, we finished with a selection of cheeses. An excellent way to end a memorable day.

Franck Bonville – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – 2006. A superb way to end the meal, the freshness, balance and power left the palate refreshed (although it did not really refresh my mind at this point!)

 

New Release Whites

Reviewed: 23rd May 2013

The panel looked at a bracket of chardonnays, as well as a selection of aromatic white wines for this tasting. In many ways, the highlight of the tasting was the arneis from Patritti. A distinctive wine of real charm.

For me, the wine of the tasting was the Singlefile Chardonnay, followed by the Swings and Roundabouts. Both very modern and showing excellent handling.

The final bracket was pinot gris/pinot grigio. You might ask what is the difference. As it turns out, there is no difference. It is the same grape, but coming from different regions. Gris from France and grigio from Italy. Traditionally, the styles have been quite different. Gris is made in a fresher, more aromatic style whereas grigio has been made in a dry/neutral style with food being a key consideration.

  • Tasted:        14 wines
  • Reviewed:    6 Wines

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Subtle minerals, curry leaf and creamy oak compliments the high quality fruit. The palate is restrained, yet the fruit builds and develops. The finish is persistent, long and supple, the oak just sitting over the fruit initially, but settling back with air to add texture and structure. Tight and lean, this will be even better with 3 – 4 years under its belt. Demonstrates excellent winemaking. From Denmark.

Swings & Roundabouts – Chardonnay – Backyard Stories – 2012 (17.5). This has a lovely nose that combines white peach and creamy, mealy notes with cashew nut complexity. On the palate there is excellent fruit characters and decent complexity courtesy of the slick winemaking. There is a seam of grapefruit running right through to the finish, leaving the palate refreshed and ready for another sip. The lovely mouth-feel and real length makes this a joy now or in 3 – 4 years. A leaner, modern style.

Patritti – Arneis – 2012 (17.2). This wine was a real surprise. It starts of quite neutral, dry and savoury, but really built to show a complex array of flavours including apricot, orange peel and perfume. The finish is long and textural. This is an interesting wine possessing real charm. Ideally suited to food, the neutral nature of the wine will work a treat with some pasta or even white fleshed fish. From the Adelaide Hills.

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – East Argyle – 2012 (17). Quite a creamy nose with some density and possibly a little barrel ferment characters. There is a degree of phenolic richness and viscosity on the palate and there is excellent length, smart acidity and a lovely citrus tang on the finish. This is an excellent drink alone or one to partner with lighter Asian food. True to the “gris” style.

Yalumba – Chardonnay – Y Series – Unwooded – 2012 (16.8). Aromatic and vibrant on both the nose and the palate. There are savoury, stone fruit characters, lemony acid and hints of honeysuckle and spice. A smart little wine that would make an excellent SSB alternative.

Yerring Station – Chardonnay – Village – 2011 (16.8). Quite Chablis like. This has a complex nose that has curry leaf, minerality, nuttiness and subtle stone fruit. The palate is tight and restrained, appearing relatively simple at first, as the lemony acidity and creamy oak suppress the fruit. This wine needs a few years for the fruit to uncoil and express itself.  Reflective of the cool vintage and an enjoyable wine.