Category Archives: Cabernet – Wine Reviews

Cabernet Sauvignon – April 2016

Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 3nd April 2016

Margaret River is synonymous with high quality Cabernet based wines, so it should come as no surprise that several of the wines reviewed for this tasting scored very well. What did surprise though, was just how good the two wines from Vasse Felix were.

I am not talking about the Heytesbury. Rather, it was the cheaper Filius and “Gold Capsule” Cabernets from 2014 that really shone, upstaging some very expensive wines.

One panellist was heard to ask why Vasse Felix had used such premium fruit in their entry-level wine. (The Filius can be had for as little as $20). Whatever the reason, we are the winners, because this is a serious, age-worthy wine at a bargain price. This is the first straight Cabernet in this range, and will, over time, replace the Cabernet Merlot.

The Premier Cabernet (with the gold capsule) costs a bit more ($35 at Dan Murphy), but is nothing short of outstanding.

The other “bargain” was the Wolf Blass – Grey Label Cabernet/Shiraz. This has a degree of immediacy that makes for superb drinking over the next year or two, but will also age well for years to come. Delicious.

This tasting also brought my first look at the new Vanya from Cullen. An impressive wine that is stylistically different from the Diana Madelaine. This has the honour of being the most expensive wine ever released from Margaret River and rivals Bin 707 as Australia’s most expensive Cabernet.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2012 (18.8). There is a real density of fruit on the nose. There are berry fruit notes, but the depth is arresting. The palate is firm, yet balanced, with fine tannins fanning out on the finish. Remarkable balance, poise and length. Great now, but will be at its best in 10 – 20 years. The finish has a sprinkling of graphite adding texture. Give it air if drinking young. Striking bottle. (RRP $350).Vasse Felix Cabernet

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Gold Capsule” – 2013 (18.6 – $40). Beautiful purity of fruit on the nose: Ripe, focussed blackcurrant aromas with a complex, savoury, herbal edge. The palate, in contrast, is taut, textured and unyielding. The souring acidity is the main focus on the finish, with remarkably fine tannins and oak adding texture and depth. The fruit shows hints of mint and eucalypt. Will drink beautifully any time over the next 20 years. Wolf-Blass-Grey-Label-Langhorne-Creek-Cabernet-Shiraz

Wolf Blass – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Grey Label – 2013. (18.5 – $40). Quite approachable, yet with a degree of depth on both the nose and palate. The tannins, whilst initially fine, take on a chewy component at the close. Excellent length, this lingers for a very long time. A bit like the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, the elegant, supple red berries give way to serious fruit power.Filius Cabernet

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2014 (18.3 – $25). Closed, yet complex wine, with a herbal, earthy edge. The palate is closed and taut, with chewy tannins. There is obvious potential here, but the superb fruit needs a bit of time to open up. A bargain!

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 1st October 2015

I have noticed an interesting trend developing in my cellar of late. I love to buy Shiraz, but I tend to open Cabernet to drink.

There is no doubt that Shiraz produces some of Australia’s greatest, as well as best value wines. At all price-points, there is an abundance of excellent wines available. Finding the same value in Cabernet is more challenging, whilst it is nearly impossible with Pinot and the like.

When it is just my wife and I for dinner, four times out of five, I will end up opening a Cabernet, Pinot or similar, and I find that I am more likely to go back for a second glass. It is a different story when friends come around, as a glass of excellent Shiraz is easy for everyone to appreciate.

There were a number of diverse styles in this tasting. From the inexpensive and ridiculously good Houghton Red-Stripe, to the savoury restraint of the Cumulus, there is a wine for all palates. Importantly, they all offer value at their respective prices.

ReviewedSix Hundred Above copy

Cumulus – Merlot – Six Hundred Above – 2013 (18). Quite old-world in style, reminiscent of right bank Bordeaux. A neutral, savoury wine that emphasises structure, mouth-feel and elegance over overt fruit characters. Dense and compact now, there is neutral, refined oak, bright acidity and serious fruit quality. From Orange in NSW, this very cool climate wine demonstrates how good straight Merlot can be. (RRP $32)

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Capsule – 2012. (18+). Serious quality fruit here, in a refined, restrained package. The fruit on the palate shows mint and gentle herbal notes, silky, texturing oak and fine tannins. This is a smart wine that, whilst delicious now, needs 5 – 10 years to show its best. (RRP $40)

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – House Block – 2013 (17.9). Menthol fruit on the nose, typical of Coonawarra. The fruit opens on the palate and gets quite succulent with air. There are herbal notes and mouth-watering acidity to close. Really long, but this needs several years for the fruit to unwind. Excellent fruit quality, made in a traditional style that needs time. ($30 from the winery).

Chateau Lariveau – Cabernet Blend – Canon-Fronsac – La Croix – 2010 (17.8). An excellent drink with gentle red fruits with hints of violets on the nose. The palate is fine, savoury and quite silky. There is real depth here, though the firm, powdery tannins keep the whole package subdued. Will easily take 5 yrs+ in the cellar. (Not yet available in Australia)

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2013 (17.5). Sweet ripe berry fruit that is open and attractive. The palate is bright, with cherry, spice and tar notes. The finish is quite savoury, with gentle oak and tannins giving way to fresh acidity. Excellent drinking. ($24 from the winery).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Red Stripe – 2013 (17). Bright, fresh and succulent, with red fruits to the fore. The palate is flooded with light, fresh berry characters with just a touch of oak adding complexity. Outrageously good drinking for the price. (RRP $12).

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 10th September 2015

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Western Australia and Margaret River in particular, has had a string of excellent vintages stretching back to 2007. Whilst there have been some year-to-year variations, the consistency has been remarkable. The question is whether there is one year in particular that is even better than the others?

A number of wineries believe that 2012 was a particularly Singlefile Cabernet Sauvignon 2013strong year. Others have suggested that their 2013s are even stronger.

In an effort to find out, the panel sat down to try a mix of wines from Western Australia to see if there were any obvious trends.

As to the outcome of the tasting, one thing is clear. There were a number of great wines from both 2012 and 2013. Remarkably, 9 of the 20 wines tasted made it to this review. Pick a good producer and you are sure to do well.

Recommended

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2013 (18.7). This is a lovely wine showing ripe, yet refined redcurrant and mint fruit notes. Gentle, balanced and with poise, the very fine fruit is perfectly matched to the winemaking inputs. The tannins are initially silky, but develop fine grippy notes to close. Good now, though this youthful wine will benefit from many years in the cellar. (RRP $85).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2012 (18.7). Dense, powerful fruit here on both the nose and palate. There is mint and gentle herbs over red berry fruit. The palate is chewy and textured, with quality oak highlights. Really builds in the glass. Very long and powerful, this needs years to be at its best. A great wine. (RRP $90).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – S.R.S. – Wilyabrup – 2013 (18.5+). The fruit on the nose is both supple and subtle. On the palate this really shines. Plush, perfectly ripe fruit is paired with supple oak and fine tannins. There is intrinsic power to the fruit, but this is refined and very approachable. Lovely mouth-feel combines with excellent length on this remarkable wine. (RRP $58).

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2012 (18.5+). Menthol and eucalypt, with a slight herbal tinge reflective of the relatively southern location of the vineyards. The palate shows fresh, bright fruit, with a savoury edge. The fine tannins, oak and acidity combine with the shutdown the fruit on the finish. Long, refined and age-worthy, with latent power. Give it at least 5 – 10 years, but will live for 20. (RRP $75).

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2012 (18.5) Menthol and red fruits, over spice highlights from the oak. The palate is fine, though quite closed initially. Silky and supple, with texturing oak and tannins. A wine of the highest quality that needs a few years to express itself fully. (RRP $45).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec – Margaret – Reserve – 2012 (18.5). Lovely fruit here. Gentle red and black berry characters over mint and spice. The palate is fruit forward, but the souring acidity keeps the whole package in check. Cooler region fruit that needs a few years to hit its straps. The fruit really builds on the palate and there is great length of flavours. A silky wine with the potential to age, there are similarities here to the fine wines of Bordeaux. (RRP $46).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2013. (18 – 18.5). Less overt berry characters on the nose initially. The fruit on the palate is almost thick, with layers of generous black fruits over cedar and a hint of licorice/tar. The tannins are remarkably fine, dusting the finish and adding texture and depth. Almost seamless, this is very fine indeed and decent value. Now – 10 years. (RRP $37).Arivina Cabernet Ssauvignon 2012

Aravina Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.2). Menthol is the defining character on the nose. This is rich and luxurious, with no rough edges. The palate transition is near seamless. With air, the blackcurrant (almost cassis) fruit starts to shine. The length is noteworthy. A generous wine that can be drunk anytime over the next 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prelude Vineyards – 2012 (17.9). Bright fruit on the nose, in the red berry spectrum. The palate is fresh and lively, with the fruit the main attraction. Fine tannins, gentle oak and well judged acidity add to the drinking pleasure. With air, this gains more depth and structure, but is great drinking now. ($27.50 from the winery).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

12th July 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

The life of a wine writer is not as glamorous as you might imagine. Tasting through 20 Sauvignon Blancs for example, is difficult due to the high acidity. Many of the panel tastings that I hold have numerous commercially sound, but unexciting wines, with just a few interesting/high-quality wines interspersed to justify the time taken to try them. Then there is the spit buckets…

Then there are the good days. Bracket after bracket of high-quality wines of charm and distinction. So it was with this tasting. This is one of the strongest tastings that the panel has seen for some time. The majority of the wines were very good, or represented good value, with a handful being quite spectacular.

The new single vineyard release from Wynns (Childs) was outstanding. This could well be the best wine made at this historic winery in recent times, rivalling the 2010 John Riddoch. Equally impressive was the Diana Madeline by Cullen – a truly special wine. Wines like the Leeuwin Estate and Wynns V&A Lane are also worthy of mention.

At the value-end of the spectrum, the Woodlands Cabernet/Merlot, St Mary’s Carillon and Flametree are all worth of mention, while the Xanadu DJL and Mosswood Amys are knockouts.

Reviewed.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Childs – 2012 (18.8). A potential superstar here. Fine, savoury fruit is skilfully matched to sophisticated, supple winemaking. The fruit quality is outstanding, with black currant and hints of mint. The palate transition is a highlight, with the fruit lingering, before the tannins gradually take precedence. Will be outstanding in 10 to 15 years, or with a decent steak today. A serious wine. (RRP $90).

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeline – 2013 (18.7). Beautifully ripe fruit has been skilfully matched to supple winemaking inputs. The fruit sits in a framework of quality oak that adds structure and depth, without dominating. The palate is supple and savoury, with fine, though grippy tannins.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon /Shiraz – V&A Lane – 2013 (18.5+). Darker in every way to the other wines here. The colour is opaque. The fruit on the nose is dense and powerful. The palate has gentle red fruits and a silky mouth-feel. Very long and persistent, however this is closed and shy, only hinting at potential. Opens in the glass to show great quality fruit. Delicious now, but will get better in time as, even after 5 days on the tasting bench, the fruit was still shining. (RRP $60).

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2011 (18.5). Whilst clearly from a cooler region, the precise, sweet fruit almost leaps from the glass. The palate has ripe fruit, though this is balanced by fine tannins and gentle, savoury oak, and the length is excellent. This Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot stands out for the way the supple fruit is given centre stage, deftly supported by the textural components. Drinking a treat now, but sure to age well for many years. Only medium bodied, but a great wine in the making. Cellaring recommended. (RRP $63).

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Black Label – 2012 (18.5). From the outstanding 2012 vintage. Black currant and plum are present on both the nose and the palate. The fruit flavours linger for a very long time, slowly transitioning to supple, savoury tannins and oak. Souring plum acidity works a treat. Richer than the Margaret River wines here, though the acid sucks up the fruit, conferring a degree of restraint. A lovely wine (RRP $45, but often discounted closer to $30).

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Special Reserve – Emily – 2012 (18.3). Unusual in that Cabernet Franc is the main variety here. The nose has chocolate and plum fruit notes. The palate is very dense and powerful, yet the wine retains elegance and poise. The tannins are silky and fine, but really build on the finish. This is all potential, and will reward the patient handsomely. A bigger style. (RRP $40).

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – DJL – 2012 (18). Lovely fruit here, but the fine structural components shut down the aromas initially. The palate has excellent balance, with red fruits and cedary oak. The texture, length and intrinsic power are noteworthy. Will actually age very well over the next 5 – 10 years if given the chance, but is delicious now.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot /Malbec – Amy’s – 2013 (18).  A very fine wine that values restraint and elegance over overt power. Opens with mint and eucalypt over fresh berries. The fruit quality is excellent and has been carefully matched to fine, supple French oak. The length and persistence are admirable. Lovely now, or anytime over the next 10 years. (RRP $30).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2013 (18). A textural treat here. Yes, the fruit is ripe and of high quality, but the mouth-feel is a highlight. Very long, but not overly tannic, this would be my pick of the tasting to drink now though it could happily take 5+ years in the cellar. (RRP $26).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merot  – 2013 (17.9). Beautiful sweet fruit on the nose with hints of blackcurrant and cassis. The palate has fine, elegant fruit and a soft supple finish. The tannins are really fine, and there is decent length and mouth-feel. Drinks well now and offers a lot of wine for the price. (RRP $33).

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot /Cabernet Franc – Carillon – 2013 (18). Lovely, fruit forward style, with red berries, fresh herbs, menthol and spice. The palate is fresh, vibrant and delicious. Oak and tannins sit in the background, allowing the fruit to shine. Made to be approachable now, but also improve for some time in the bottle. This would be a joy to drink with a Sunday roast. (RRP $40).

1996 Cabernet Sauvignon

Vintage in Focus by Barry Weinman

27th June 2015IMG_0544

I am in the fortunate position to be able to drink old wines regularly. Often, this is in the setting of dinner with friends, or a themed tasting. It is a rare treat however, to be able to drink a number of aged wines from the same vintage.

To make this tasting even more interesting, all wines were Bordeaux varietals or blends and the wines were equally divided between France and Australia. An added bonus was that 1996 was an excellent year on both sides of the globe. I could not find a bottle of Mosswood from this vintage, so substituted a bottle of the 1994 Reserve.

All wines came from the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia’s cellar. The Australian wines had been in the cellar since launch, whereas many of the French wines I purchased a few years ago when they had been shipped ex-cellar.

Opening the wines told a tale of two standards. The corks in the French wines were uniformly in great condition. Longer than the Australian’s, but also of perceptibly higher quality. The Australian wines’ corks started crumbling with a standard corkscrew, whereas the French wines’ corks came out easily without breaking.

Once again, I was very grateful to have a Durant corkscrew on hand to assist with cork removal. This remarkable device is a must for those regularly opening wines older than 15 years. Remarkably, there was no discernible cork taint in any of the wines. This was indeed a very special day!

Initially, I planned on serving the wines in matched pairs (Australia v France). On opening the wines, this plan changed as the overt power of the Australian wines would have overwhelmed the French wines.

The Wines

Perhaps the biggest surprise on the night was the Champagnes in Bracket One. Support for the three wines was equally divided across the group. The “standard” 2002 was the most accessible, making it the choice for those who value drinkability.Bracket 1

At the other end of the spectrum, the Sir Winston Churchill is a sublime wine that was the pick for the aficionados among us. Sitting in the middle and offering outstanding value was the Blanc de Blanc. A great drink!

The highlight of Bracket Two was the Roc de Cambes, coming from a fully mature vineyard that has similarities to St Emillon. This demonstrated just how good the wines from Cotes de Bourg (Cotes de Bordeaux) can be.

Bracket Three saw a step up in perceived quality, as all wines were of Grand Cru status. This was also reflected in the overall quality. The highlight was the Cantemerle, a still youthful wine of real class.

Bracket Four saw the first of the Australian wines. The change in style was immediately apparent, with the fruit more accessible. The wines retained balance and poise, but there was a degree of immediacy that, if anything, made the wines more accessible to the average drinker.

The Wynns displayed classic Coonawarra fruit and was a delight to drink. The Plantagenet was my pick. A wine that is in its prime, but one that will also last for years.

Bracket 5The final bracket consisted of three superstars. The Mosswood was the most complete drink, the 707 the most long-lived. All were brilliant wines in their own right, and equal to the best Cabernets anywhere in the world, albeit in a different style to the French. Ultimately, it was the Vasse Felix Heytesbury that was my pick for the night!

Bracket One

Pol Roger – Champagne – 2002. A rich and developed Champagne that is powerful and complex, with honeyed, aged notes. Textured and very long, this was preferred by several guests.

Pol Roger – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – 2002. Perfumed and floral, the taut chardonnay fruit characters are clearly expressed here. Refined and delicate, yet there is latent power and excellent length. A great wine that will age well for another few years at least.

Pol Roger – Champagne – Sir Winston Churchill – 2000. The term “Less is more” comes to mind here. Very fine and delicate, yet has tremendous presence in the mouth. Elegance is the key.

Bracket Two

Lilian Ladouys – Saint Estephe – 1996. Lovely fragrant nose, with subtle spice complementing the still-fresh fruit. The palate is fully mature, with decent depth and length and a well-structured finish. Good drinking.

Roc de Cambes – Cotes de Bourg – 1996. Made primarily from Merlot, the fantastic fruit here has an almost new-world richness. Cassis and spice on the nose. The silky mouthfeel and depth of fruit on the palate are noteworthy. Considered by many to be the best wine from the Cotes de Bourg, this was a standout.

Labegorce – Margeaux – 1996. The perfumed fruit is typical of Margeaux, but the palate was starting to dry out. Perhaps not the best bottle.

Bracket Three

Clos de L’Oratoire – St. Emillon – Grand Cru – 1996. Delicious sweet fruit that has obvious power. Very long and texture, this is drinking perfectly now.

Chateau Cantemerle – Haut Medoc – 5th Growth – 1996. Sweet ripe fruit, with minty highlights. A powerful wine, with still firm tannins. The excellent length on the finish is a feature. A stand-out.

Grand Puy Ducasse – Pauliac – 5th Growth – 1996. Obvious powerful fruit, with a touch of earthy/ funky notes adding to the appeal. Fine tannins fan out on a long finish.

Bracket Four

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Black Label” – 1996. Cassis and menthol speaks of classic Coonawarra Cabernet. The palate is not overly dense, but this is a delightful drink.

Plantagenet – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1996. Plump, fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is bright, fresh, taut and full of life. The balance is a highlight and the finish is long and fine. Excellent now, but will hold.

Irvine – Grand Merlot – 1996. A big wine, full of plump ripe fruit. Loved by some, but this was a bit overdone for me. This was, perhaps not a typical bottle, as I have enjoyed excellent bottles of this vintage in the recent past.

Bracket Five

Vase Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 1996. Intense, powerful fruit, with leather and spice over the superb fruit. The palate is remarkably youthful, with red fruit characters. A complete wine and quite spectacular!

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 1994. The most complete wine now, and an absolute pleasure to drink. The perfumed fruit retains power, but the palate is long, refined elegant and silky. A textural treat.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 – 1996. Tight and incredibly youthful, with powerful, yet restrained fruit. The palate is closed and tight, with chewy tannins that are remarkably fine. The line and length is a feature. The intense fruit builds and builds. The proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, a great wine!

Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon and d’Armailhac

June 2015

2005 Mouton RothschildBaron Philippe de Rothschild is the parent organisation for several wineries, including one of the great wines of Bordeaux – Chateau Mouton Rothschild in the appellation of Paulliac. Promoted to 1st growth in 1973, the wines have been consistently brilliant (vintage conditions permitting) for many decades.

The group also owns a pair of 5th growths in Paulliac. Chateau Clerc Milon is considered the better of the two, made in a more muscular style, whilst Chateau d’Armailhac is the more feminine (and less expensive), though still age-worthy.

D’Armailhac is a neighbouring vineyard to Mouton. Whilst the ranking of the winery is not linked to specific holdings, the operations of the two are kept separate, so the best estate fruit is used to make this wine. Clerc Milon is about a kilometre north of Mouton.

Thanks to Daniel Arnoldi (the Australian importer of these wines) and John Jens (Lamonts – Cottesloe), Erwan Le Brozec from Baron Philippe de Rothschild was in Perth recently to showcase several vintages of each of these wines over lunch. With the title of Vice Commercial Director, Erwan is the Head of Export Operations for the organisation. (Some people have a hard life!).

Along with the three Grand Cru wineries, we also had a pair of wines from Le Petit Mouton, the second wine of Mouton Rothschild. Given the pricing, these wines appear to be more highly rated than the 5th Growths.

To round the event off, we started and finished with wines from Chateau Coutet (Barsac)

In regards to the vintages, Daniel went to great trouble to select a variety of vintages going back to 1990, including the great vintages of 2000, 2005 and 2009.

Amazingly, all of the wines are available for sale, albeit in small quantities. While the prices are not cheap, the wines have come straight from the chateau in perfect condition. The prices quoted were the prices offered by Lamont’s on the day, but give you a ballpark idea of costs.

And the verdict? The wines were uniformly outstanding, accurately expressing the vintage conditions and the vineyard characters. The Clerc Milon in particular, impressed for the sheer quality of the wines. That said, the 2005 Mouton is one of the greatest wines that I have had the privilege to taste.

N.B. The 2014 indent is now being offered by select retailers. This looks like being another excellent year and prices are much reduced compared to other recent years. For example, one retailer has Chateau Margaux for $600 and Lafite for $750.

Admittedly, you will not get the wines for 2 -3 years, and it will be another 10+ years before they are ready to drink.

The Wines

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot – Paulliac – 2009. What a great way to start. Whilst the 2009 remained relatively closed and tight, the feminine, almost floral fruit was a highlight. The palate was structured and firm, but in no way austere. The fine tannins, supple oak and well-judged acidity come together on the finish, providing the backbone for a long life. Considered by some (e.g. Robert Parker) to be the best d’Armailhac ever. ($138).

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot – Paulliac – 2005. More overt power to the fruit here, but still with the trademark elegance and balance. The more muscular palate has fine, dusty (though still) firm tannins. A wine with excellent presence that would benefit from another 5+ years to open up. ($195).

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2000. Seductive, rich, generous and complex, yet still with the trademark feminine fruit. On the palate, the fruit is quite delicate and the structure is elegant and refined. The finish is defined by the way the fine, silky tannins are integrated back into the fruit in a near seamless close. A lovely wine now, but will hold. ($232).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot/Carmenere – Paulliac – 2009. The fruit on the nose is quite restrained, though the potential is clearly evident. The palate is where the quality is expressed. The dense and powerful fruit is the main focus initially, with the firm structure becoming evident on the close. The fine tannins and oak (40% new) are perceptible, but not intrusive. The finish is silky and remarkably supple, with seamless palate transition. With air, the fruit characters become more evident. A superb wine that needs time to show its best. ($171).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot/Carmenere – Paulliac – 2000. Given the age, the fruit is surprisingly subdued initially. With air, this starts to shine, with delicate berry notes and hints of menthol and leathery complexity. Whilst the beautiful fruit became apparent in the glass, this is a wine that still needs a few years to reach its drinking window. Classic Bordeaux for the aficionados, but one that may be lost on the average drinker. ($255).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Paulliac – 1996. This has a beautiful nose that is developed, rich and complex. The palate is mature, yet full of life. The mouthfeel is a highlight leading to a long, supple finish. An enchanting wine that is drinking perfectly. ($198).

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc– Paulliac – 2009. Very tight and closed initially. This is a structured, powerful wine, though it retains a remarkable degree of elegance. The finish is supple, though the tannins and oak (100% new) prevent the fruit from opening up. A profound, masculine wine that needs years. ($495).

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc– Paulliac – 2005. This is a very serious wine with great power and structure. There are the first signs of development (mocha/coffee notes), but the fruit is still youthful and full of vitality. The fruit density is a real step-up, yet the tannins remain very fine and the balance is exemplary. With air the fruit opens and builds, while the oak (75% new) fades into the background. A powerhouse! ($717).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2007. Given the vintage, this is a great effort. The nose is quite lovely, with a remarkable purity to the pretty fruit. Pristine red fruits abound on the palate, with berries and spice over fine textured oak. The finish is still closed, with the lighter fruit weight well matched to the structural components. Very strict fruit selection, combined with careful handling in the vineyard has produced a wine of great charm that will provide earlier drinking pleasure. ($795).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2005. The nose here is somewhat muted at first. The palate however, is nothing short of spectacular! Refined and tight, this is full of nervous energy. Power, intensity, depth and great length, this has it all. The finish is defined by a minerality that combines with the amazing tannins and oak leading to a seamless close. It is almost as if you can taste the soil in which the vines are grown. It is a privilege to have tasted this wine. ($1729).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 1990. Whilst the power is still evident, this has evolved into a seductive and beautiful wine. Aromas of tobacco, spice and gentle herbal notes complement the fruit which still retains great purity. In the mouth, the fruit is represented by menthol and soft leathery tones, with the fruit weight building on the palate. Whilst this has developed and is drinking beautifully, it is still a powerhouse, with bright acidity combining with remarkably fine tannins to add life and vitality to the finish. A wine of great length that is a joy to drink today! ($1196).

Forester Estate – February 2015

Reviewed: 16th February 2015

Forester is owned by the McKay family and was established in 2002 following the sale of the family’s previous winery – Abbey Vale. It is situated in the northern part of the Margaret River region of Western Australia.

What made the wines reviewed here stand out in blind tastings was that they offered such good drinking. These are made in a middle of the road/mainstream style that highlights the quality fruit and confers early drinkability.

The wines will also age well in the short to medium term.

Reviewed

Forester Estate – Chardonnay – 2013 (18 – 18.5). (RRP $37). With youthful fresh fruit and acidity, this is a wine of real potential. Lemon curd, nectarine and fine grained French oak all feature. Excellent fruit, in a minimalist style, with a textured, almost chewy finish. Great now, but will be even better with a year or two in the bottle.

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18 – 18.5). (RRP $37). Ribena, mint and eucalypt (menthol) fruit on the nose. The fleshy blackcurrant fruit on the palate is complemented by fine tannins and supple oak. This is only medium bodied, allowing the fruit to shine. A lovely drink now or in 10 years.

 

 

 

Higher Plane – February 2015

Reviewed: 10th February 2015

Higher Plane was established in 1996 by Cathie and Craig Smith, with a focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The vineyard is close planted (4000 vines per hectare).

In 2006, the winery and vineyards were purchased by Juniper Estate (established/owned by the Hill Family) and Mark Messenger assumed responsibility for wine making. In conjunction with Ianto Ward, who took over management of the vineyards in 2008, the wines have never looked better!

 

Higher Plane – Sauvignon Blanc – South By Southwest – 2014 (17). A decent wine that sits in the middle of the road, with gentle tropical fruit being the primary focus. A crowd pleasing style. (RRP $22).

Higher Plane – Sauvignon Blanc – Barrel Fermented – 2014 (17.5). This is a savoury, food friendly wine that has grassy notes with a touch of almond and stone fruit. The palate has a touch of viscosity and crisp, lemony acidity. The lees contact and barrel ferment characters add a lovely textural component and there is excellent length. Great value (RRP $25).

Higher Plane – Chardonnay – 2012 (18.5). Opens with tropical/pineapple fruit, leading on to stone fruit and melon aromas. The palate is long, fine and silky, with cashew nut and spice highlights. The texture and balance are a highlight. With high-quality fruit and oak, handled sympathetically in the winery, this is a complete wine and a lovely drink. (RRP $40).

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – South By Southwest – 2011 (18). I like the way the high quality fruit and earthy notes combine into a complex, savoury package. There are hints of mocha, and the cedar-like oak complements the fruit, without dominating. The structure is a highlight, with chewy tannins to close. Bargain. (RRP $22).

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). This is a very fine wine. The fruit is perfectly ripe, yet subtle and shy. The structure is fine and savoury, with silky oak and fine tannins cloaking the fruit at present. Excellent length and persistence.Patience is required though, as this requires several years for the structure to unwind and for the fruit to open up. Sophisticated and polished. (RRP $50).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – January 2014

Reviewed: 26th January 2014

The big surprise here was from Grace Farm. This is not a winery that I am familiar with, but the wine is excellent. The vineyards are situated in Wilyabrub, and the vines planted in 2006.

The bargain of the tasting was The Bard by Hollick. This is a serious wine that is likely to be available for under $20. Definitely one to try.

The highlight however was the Thomas Hardy. A superb wine that is worthy of the icon tag!

Reviewed

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hardy – 2012 (18.7). Magnificent nose! Pristine, ripe fruit that is balanced and delicious. The palate is remarkable for the mouth-feel and texture. The quality red fruits burst onto the tongue, before being covered in a blanket of extraordinarily fine tannins. The oak adds depth without being overt. Deserves its iconic reputation (RRP $130).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – 2012 (18 – 18.5). A refined, elegant wine that, whilst supple and soft, has enough fruit to make an impact. The tannins are remarkably fine, though plentiful enough to keep the high quality fruit subdued at the moment. A few years will make all the difference. (RRP $55).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012. (18.3). The nose is closed and restrained at first. The palate however shows lovely ripe, though delicate fruit that gives way to ever so fine and powdery tannins. Impressive length and structure. An elegant wine of real class that will age gracefully for many years. Whilst there is latent power to the fruit, the balance here is the key.

Grace Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18). Very dense, deep fruit here, yet it appears restrained and shy at first. In the mouth, it is the structure that impresses. Fine, elegant and balanced, this is a textural feast. Yet underneath, there is excellent fruit lurking, just waiting for an opportunity to develop. A long and persistent finish rounds out the package. (RRP $30).

Hollick – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Bard – 2013 (18). This wine stands out for its sweet, ripe, approachable fruit. There are bountiful red fruits and memories of mint jelly. The palate is firm, though fine, with excellent length. A youthful joy now, but will benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $22).

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude Vineyards – 2010 (17.5+). Refined and elegant, though there is enough depth to the fruit to make this very appealing now. It is on the palate that the wine shines, the length and persistence are admirable. The tannins are slightly chalky, retarding the fruit somewhat, but a few years cellaring or an hour in a decanter is all that is needed to allow this to transform. (RRP $30).

Arivina – Merlot – 2012 (17.5). Lifted blackcurrant fruit with hints of cassis and spice. The palate is savoury and a touch sappy, with the lively red fruits dancing across the mid palate. Being only medium weight, this makes for excellent short-term drinking.

Larry Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – December 2014

Reviewed: 1st January 2015

I must admit to getting a little confused by the wines released by Larry Cherubino. There is no question about quality; it is the vast array of wines that he produces that is hard to keep up with.

In this tasting, we had three wines under the flagship “Cherubino” label: Frankland River, Margaret River and Great Southern. Whilst the bottle shape changes from one to the next, the label does not. Interestingly the price also varies. At $49, the Great Southern is the cheapest whilst the Frankland River ($110) is the most expensive.

The Frankland River is truly a great wine, and must rank amongst the best Cabernets made in Western Australia in the last few years. Given the high cost of this wine, I was even more excited by a couple of the cheaper labels in the range. Both the Ad Hoc ($21) and the Pedestal ($25) offer outstanding value.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2012 (19). This brilliant wine opens with menthol and an almost licorice-like savoury twist to the nose. The blackcurrant fruit is initially subdued, but really builds with air. The palate is amazing for both the density of fruit and the elegance and balance. Powerful and complex, yet supple and lithe, the finish is long and fine. The fresh acidity and ever-so-fine tannins caress the tongue. Very long and persistent, this wine will continue to improve for many years. (RRP $110).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2012 (18+). (RRP $75). More savoury fruit notes here compared to the Frankland River. The palate is balanced and supple, the ripe fruit nicely complemented by texturing oak. There is excellent length and persistence, and the fruit builds with air. A savoury, textured wine of some charm.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Great Southern – 2012 (18). Souring fruit and acidity are a key part of this wine, ensuring that this will be an excellent pairing with food. The fruit is relatively subdued, but builds with air, showing raspberry and blueberry characters. The ripe tannins are a little firm at present, so another 5 years please. (RRP $49).

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2012 (18). Attractive fruit that initially appears quite generous. Then the very fine tannins and oak kick in on the mid-palate, closing down the fruit and carrying through to the finish. Really long, this will improve for 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $25).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Ad Hoc – Avant Gardening – 2013 (18). Dense fruit here. There are fresh red and blackcurrant notes, with a souring cherry lift. The palate is fine and elegant, with that souring fruit keeping everything fresh and lively. There is also a degree of generosity to the supple fruit that gives this immediate appeal. A lovely wine and great value. (RRP $21).