Category Archives: Cabernet – Wine Reviews

Redman Wines – December 2014

Reviewed: 1st December 2014

The Redman family are pioneers of the Coonawarra region, having been involved in growing grapes and making wine for almost a century.

Redman has stayed true to form and continues to only make red wines from grapes grown on the famous Terra Rossa soils. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Shiraz are the only varieties used.

The wines have typically been made in a savoury, food-friendly style and have often aged very well. I have enjoyed several 30 – 40 year old bottles over the years and they have been a delight.

The contrast between the 2012 Cabernet and the other two wines reviewed here was marked. The older wines have settled into their structure and develop secondary characters. With 2012 however, the primary fruit characters were allowed to shine, without diminishing the ability to age. Admittedly, 2012 was an outstanding year for Coonawarra reds.

Whilst the Redman family are trying to stay true to Owen Redman’s philosophy on making wine, they are not standing still. Currently, there is a program of vineyard rejuvenation/replanting underway. Interestingly though, the wines are still bottled with cork.

 

Reviewed

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon /Merlot/Shiraz – The Redman – 2004 (18.3). The bottle age here is obvious, as the fruit has started to open and soften within a complex savoury frame. There are lovely minty cabernet notes on the nose. The palate is still fresh and vibrant, with the fine fruit sitting nicely with the oak. The tannins are still firm, but in combination with the acid, they keep the wine youthful and alive, whilst adding texture. An impressive wine that, whilst enjoyable now, is sure to age well for some time to come. (RRP $70. 200 dozen produced).

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 – (17.9). Impressive nose that has depth and power to the fruit. A classic Coonawarra Cabernet that has menthol and eucalyptus notes over blackberry fruit. The tannins are a little grippy – though this adds to the mouth-feel. A powerful (though elegant) wine that needs a few years to hit its straps. Whilst maintaining a link to the other wines, the impression is that an effort has been made to preserve the fruit characters.(RRP $29).

Redman – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2009 (17.5). Varietally correct nose, with menthol, eucalypt and herbal notes. This is a savoury wine with bright acidity carrying the finish. Though not an overt blockbuster, the fruit is supple and ripe and the mouth-feel excellent. Good depth on the palate, with excellent length and persistence to close. This is a savoury wine, with leaner fruit characters and balanced tannins and is sure to age well for a decade or more. Will sit well with food today. (RRP $35).

 

 

A P Birks – Wendouree – 2011 and 2012 Vintage Review

27th November 2014

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Over the years, I have been fortunate enough to taste some of the world’s great wines. Interestingly though, the opportunity to try all of the red wines from Wendouree from two consecutive vintages proved to be one of the most memorable events that I have ever attended.

Wendouree is one of the world’s true cult wines. This reputation is enhanced by the Brady’s noble aim of keeping the wine accessible to their loyal mailing list customers. Rather than sell to the trade and allow profiteering/trading in their wines, they are only available via the mailing list. Whilst not cheap at $45 – $50 per bottle, they become real value when the quality is factored in.

Whilst the winery is perhaps most famous for its Shiraz and Shiraz blends, the Cabernet should not be underestimates.

The Cabernet generally needs more time to show its best. This was, perhaps, best illustrated by the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz that we had with dinner. With 15 years in the bottle, the Cabernet was really hitting its straps and was a delight to drink. Whilst both wines were magnificent, I would possibly put the Cabernet slightly ahead of the Shiraz. Coming from a very good cellar, these wines were in pristine condition and are only just approaching their best (and will hold for many more years).

The Shiraz-based wines are just as age-worthy, however they are generally more approachable now. This proved to be the case with the wines reviewed here.

Regarding the two vintages, 2011 was considered to be a challenging year. This resulted in lighter, more feminine wines. Still age-worthy, but not as dense as the best years.

2012 was universally applauded in South Australia and this was reflected in the wines here. These wines are truly great, and are at least the equal to the top wines from Penfolds, Henschke, Torbrek etc. There was more of the classic Clare Valley mintiness and remarkable poise.

Most remarkable of all was the alcohol content of the wines, with most being between 13.2% and 13.8%. This is in stark contrast to many of the wines produced in Australia that sit at 14.5%+. Here are wines of tremendous power, yet they show elegance, balance and restraint.

The tasting proved to be a unique opportunity to try some spectacular wines.

Reviewed

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2011 (17.5). Seductive and pretty nose, with violet-like fruit characters reminiscent of fine Margeaux. The palate is relatively light and elegant, with mulberry and spice over a touch of minerality. The tannins and acid cut through on the finish ensuring longevity. A pretty wine.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – 2012 (18). Much greater density than the 2011 on the nose. Whilst this is closed, the potential is obvious. On the palate this is richer and denser, but nowhere near as accessible. The trademark tannins are there, but they sit much more comfortably behind the fruit. The fruit here is outstanding, with depth and density, yet the silky tannins do not hamper the mouth-feel. Clare Valley mintyness is more clearly expressed here.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Malbec – 2011 (17.9). A lovely wine that is fine, elegant, balanced and lithe. Thepretty, perfumed fruit coats the mouth, with the tannins and acid adding life. The tannins are extraordinarily fine and the oak is not apparent. This wine builds power and depth with air. It closes with a touch of forest floor characters and the tannins are almost chewy. This is particularly food friendly.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Malbec – 2012 (18.5). Again, there is pretty, fragrant fruit on the nose that is quite lovely, but the fruit weight is more apparent. Tending to dark fruits with plum, complex spice and earthy highlights. The structure on the palate stands out for the firm tannins which, whilst extraordinarily fine, coat the tongue and close down the fruit. Quite supple, yet the power really builds on the finish and the length is a standout. Even better the next day!

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18+). Fine, elegant fruit characters that, like the Cabernet/Malbec, tend towards violet. This continues on the palate with fresh red fruits and a touch of menthol, sitting over silky, fine tannins. The elegance and length here are standouts, making this a lovely drink now. Superb effort!

A P Birks – Wendouree – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.7+). Closed, tight and dense, this really just hints at potential at present. The palate is savoury, whilst the fine tannins are plentiful. Outstanding, this has unbelievable depth, yet this is still elegant and balanced. With air, this really came to life, with classic mint, chocolate, and blackcurrant. The acid ensures longevity.

A P Birks – Wendourre – Shiraz/Malbec – 2012 (18.5). This has a beautiful nose redolent of fresh red berries; think fragrant mulberry. The palate is elegant, refined, long and silky, with amazing length and balance. Dusty, chewy tannins hide amongst the awesome fruit. A joy to drink, but sure to age gracefully for many years.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2011 (18). Lighter colour, with less density. On the nose, this shows plum and spice aromas. The palate is elegant, yet there is depth and latent power. The fine tannins are a treat. Whilst this is quite floral, the savoury peppery fruit is a highlight. Balance a feature!

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz/Mataro – 2012 (18.8). Depth and obvious power on the nose, yet the intense fruit is still accessible. The palate is a highlight, with peppery fruit over earthy, forest floor highlights. This wine has the proverbial peacock’s tail effect, with the flavours and texture fanning out across the palate, with near seamless palate transition. A brilliant wine, with stunning balance.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz – 2011 (18.3). The most highly regarded of the Wendouree reds, and with this wine it is easy to see why. The fruit is succulent and ripe, yet elegant and balanced. The palate is seamless, with the tannins playing second fiddle to the superb fruit. The balance is outstanding, with the acidity carrying the finish but it does need time.. The best of the 2011s.

A P Birks – Wendouree – Shiraz – 2012 (19.3). A stunning, sublime wine! This is as close to perfection as one could hope for in a red wine. On the nose, this is actually very pretty, with floral red fruits. It is on the palate where the quality is truly expressed. Precise, perfectly ripe fruit slowly gives way to fine tannins, which add a savoury lift. The fruit is pretty, yet serious and closed, the length outstanding. The flavours keep evolving for the longest time. Remarkable for the drinkability, this is the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove. Is this Australia’s greatest red wine???

Flowstone Wines – October 2014

8th October 2014

Stuart Pym may not be a household name, but he has made wine (and beer) that many of us have enjoyed over the years. After a stint at Matilda Bay Brewery making beer, Stuart returned to Margaret River to pursue winemaking as a career.

Stuart spent time at Voyager Estate, before moving on to Devil’s Lair and then Suckfizzle/Stella Bella. Whilst still consulting to Suckfizzle, Stuart has now struck out on his own under the Flowstone label.

The winery is located in Forrest Grove, south of the Margaret River township, with the vineyard planted in 2004 and 2008. Fruit has been sourced from established vineyards around the region, selected for the style of wine that Stuart is trying to craft.

Early results are excellent. The wines tasted here are the second vintage released by the winery and, refreshingly, it is great to see both the whites and reds being released with a little bottle age, at a time when the likes of Penfolds are bringing forward the release of their premium wines.

I found the Chardonnays to be particularly interesting as they have been produced in quite different styles. The standard wine is rich and textured, with immediate appeal, whereas the Queen of the Earth is finer and more restrained. Again, the extra time in bottle is helping here.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Opens with a lovely nose that balances ripe fruit notes with complex, barrel-ferment characters. Complex, worked, textured and chewy on the palate, with struck-match complexity. Very long and powerful, this is a dense and expansive wine that is complemented by the barrel-ferment characters and the inclusion of 20% new oak. (RRP $35).

Flowstone – Chardonnay – Queen of the Earth – 2011 (18 – 18.5). Subtle and restrained by comparison to the standard wine. Very fine and long, with underlying power that is tightly controlled. There is clearly very high quality oak here, but this does not dominate the fruit. Citrus characters to close. Will improve with another year or two in bottle. From the wineries “Home Vineyard”, the oak is 50% new and 50% 1 year old. (RRP $55).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2009 (18). More fruit intensity on the nose compared to the red blend. The palate is textured, chewy and vibrant, with ample tannins coating the finish. Quite a powerful wine that needs a big steak or a few years in the cellar, but does benefit from the extra couple of years in bottle. A serious wine that spent 3 years in oak (100% new). (RRP $75).

 

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – September 2014

15th September 2014

While Western Australian Cabernets made up the bulk of the wines in this tasting, Coonawarra was not to be outdone, with the Wynns Alex 88 making a real statement.

This is the first single vineyard Wynns that I can remember, and it certainly made me sit up and pay attention.

Reviewed

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Alex 88 – Single Vineyard – 2010 (18.7). Closed and tightly coiled, the nose only hints at potential at first. Opens to reveal perfumed red fruit with briary blackcurrant and blueberry overtones. On the palate the fruit is quite subdued, but the quality is palpable. The tannins are extraordinarily fine, but do close down the fruit. Give it an hour in the decanter or a decade in the cellar. With air, the supple, ripe fruit comes to the fore, with a savoury twist to close. Outstanding. (RRP $80).

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2011 (18.5). Intense blackcurrant fruit with a touch of cassis. The palate is firm and muscular, with the fruit held in check. That said this is refined and elegant, the extraordinarily fine tannins are prodigious, though not aggressive. Will be a superstar with time in the cellar. (RRP $85).

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2009 (18 – 18.5). Serious fruit quality combined with serious (expensive) winemaking. This is a textural delight. The fruit is relatively suppressed, but will blossom with time. Dense and powerful, yet the supple texture makes this so easy to drink. Elegant! (RRP $62).

A to B – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18). Lovely peppermint and eucapytpus fruit characters, reminiscent of Coonawarra. The palate is initially taut, though the quality fruit opens on the mid palate. There is decent depth and excellent length. Cedar and hints of spice round out the finish on an impressive wine. From Western Australia’s Great Southern Region.

Frankland Estate – Cabernet Frank/Cabernet Sauvignon/Petit Verdot – Olmo’s Reward – 2012 (18). Pretty red fruits abound on both the nose and palate. This is a lovely wine that combines ripe (though elegant) fruit with fine tannins and stylish winemaking. The fruit carries to a finish that is long and supple. This will provide great enjoyment now or any time over the next 10 years. (The new label also looks great). (RRP $45).

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.9). Herbal notes over dark, brooding, briary fruit. The palate is dense and almost opulent, with silky tannins and oak. This is a smart wine that will only get better with a few years in the bottle. Well made and a modern expression of Great Southern Cabernet (RRP $37).

Penfolds – Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon – Koonunga Hill – 2012 (17). A smart wine that values elegance over opulence, suggesting a portion of cooler region fruit was included in the blend. Elegant and refined, with decent length. Not overly complex, but ticks all the boxes. Sure to get even better with a few years in the bottle. (RRP $15, but I picked this up from Kemeny’s for $8).

Vasse Felix

Reviewed: 14th May 2014

Situated in the Willyabrup sub-region of Margaret River, Vasse Felix can lay claim to being the oldest producer of wines in this prestigious region. Established in 1967 by Dr Tom Cullity, the first release was the 1972 vintage.

Since then, the winery has gone from strength to strength as the range has been refined and stratified. The focus is now on three distinct pillars, Cabernet Sauvignon based wines, Chardonnay and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blends. A consistent approach to stratification is also being gradually adopted.

At the top of the quality tree is the Heytesbury, (gold peregrine on the label). Currently, this is limited to the Cabernet and the Chardonnay. That said, Virginia Willcock and the team are working towards a Heytesbury SSB. A small batch was released from the 2011 vintage and the wine produced in 2013 is excellent. Time will tell if this will end up under the Heytesbury label.

Sitting just below this, from a quality perspective, is the Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. These are set to be joined by a chardonnay from the 2013 vintage. (These wines have the burgundy coloured peregrine on the label and a burgundy capsule). The Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot and “standard” Chardonnay sit below this. These wines will be re-labelled Filius from the next vintage to avoid confusion.

Finally, there is the Classic range with a Dry White and a Dry Red.

I rate Vasse Felix in the top five wineries in the region. Their wines are consistently outstanding. If you ask nicely, they may even give you a 20% discount for dozen lots at the cellar door, which makes the wines extraordinary value.

A special thanks must go to Francine and the team at Vasse Felix for making our visit so enjoyable.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2013. Fragrant and complex with lovely lemon and lanolin notes. The grassy notes come out with air. Whilst fresh and lively, there is an undertone of complexity that comes from the 19% of fruit that was fermented in new oak. A small portion was also fermented on skins which helps to add depth to the palate.

Vasse Felix – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – “White Cap” – 2012. Made in a similar way to white Bordeaux: All fruit was fermented/aged in new oak for nine months with a further six months in older oak. 60% Semillon, a portion of the SB was fermented on skins. This is a powerful wine that is creamy and textured, with lemon curd, lanolin, minerals and a touch of struck match/flintiness. That said, this is a fine wine that will take some years in the bottle. Destined to become Heytesbury?

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – 2012. A very fine and delicate style that has lovely, peach-like stone fruit aromas. The palate is quite linear at present, reflecting the youthful nature of this wine. The limey acid provides excellent drive on the finish. Matured in a mix of new, one and two year old oak, though this is just a whisper on the finish. Really needs a year or two to fill out and open up. (Will be labelled Filius from 2013).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Burgundy Capsule – 2013. Very tight and restrained, with bright fruit and refreshing acidity. The palate is creamy, though the fruit is shy at present. The finish is near seamless, with supple oak adding depth and mouth-feel. Needs a few years, but will be worth the wait. Soon to be released, this is destined to be the first “burgundy capsuled” chardonnay.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2012. Very powerful nose blending stone fruit, pineapple and complex winemaker’s inputs (struck match minerality and creamy barrel ferment and lees aromas). The powerful fruit continues on a palate that is complex, balanced and very long. Seamless palate transition, with the texture really building on the close. A superb effort that retains freshness and poise. Lovely now, but better in a few years.

Vasse Felix – Semillon – 2012. Always a delight to drink as this wine balances approachable fruit characters with a finish that is supple, textural and long. Destined to be the last semillon made by Vasse Felix as the fruit used in this wine will be used in the SSB going forward.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2011. An excellent expression of this style, showing perfumed fruit with hints of violet and summer berries. The palate adds hints of leather, spice and earthy notes to the red fruits, with herbal notes and fine, supple tannins to close. Like many wines made from this blend in the region, this is made in a more approachable style. (Will be labelled Filius in future years).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011. Classic minty, blackcurrant fruit on the nose over spice and cedary oak. The palate is silky and very long, though this needs years to reach its peak. A very fine wine.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 2011. The fruit and winemaking here is nothing short of spectacular. The nose is filled with fragrant fruit over supple savoury/spicy notes. This is a very complex wine. The palate is breathtaking, displaying fruit that is very powerful, yet refined and very elegant. The chewy, structural notes build on a finish that is silky, balanced and very long. An iron fist in a velvet glove. A brilliant wine that will comfortably take 20 years in the cellar.

 

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – April 2014

Reviewed: 20 April 2014

This tasting offered up an interesting cross-section of cabernets from around the globe. I was pleased to see that the styles of the wines reviewed accurately reflected the region in which they were produced. This really added interest to the tasting, as the wines reflected the terrior in which the grapes were grown.

Highlights for me were the wines from Mildara and Chateau Lariveau. I am not sure if the later wine is available in Australia, but it is worth a try if you see it. The Mildara, on the other hand, should be widely available and is the best wine that I can recall under this label, (I am not lucky enough to have tried the 1963).

Reviewed

Mildara – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18.5). There is lovely balance to this wine. The fruit is ripe, yet focused, with supple oak and tannins providing the framework. Very good length and quite a silky finish with the acid bringing the palate to life. Good now, but will be better with a few years in the cellar.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Moss Wood Vineyard – 2011 (18/18.5+). Complex herbal notes, with menthol and eucalyptus over ripe/precise blackcurrant fruit. The finish is quite tight, with the souring acidity and fine tannins providing drive, but obscuring the fruit at present. Will be better with 5 years in the bottle. Opened to show ripe cassis-like fruit and clove/star anise spice. This wine was the sleeper of the tasting and took a day or two to really hit its straps. (RRP $120).

Evans and Tate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Redbrook – 2010 (18). Menthol and cool region fruit characters. The palate is chewy and textured, but with fine tannins and good length. There is impressive fruit and winemaking, though it needs a little time to really come together. Powerful fruit, but with the structure to carry it. This is a very good wine that will only get better with time in the bottle.

Chateau Lariveau – Canon-Fronsac – 2010 (17.8). A lighter style, with fresh, souring red fruit characters. The winemaker’s inputs appear quite restrained, allowing the fruit to drive the finish. Raspberry and spice in a wine that is elegant and refined. With air, this really opened up to show quality fruit and deft winemaking.

Saltram – Cabernet Sauvignon – Mamre Brook – 2011 (17.7). Savoury, lean, long and a touch herbal, reflecting the vintage conditions in 2011. Quite a dense, powerful wine, with tannins that are quite chewy, shutting down the fruit on the palate. That said, time will help here, as the fruit quality is excellent and the length impressive.

Yerring Station – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (17.5 – 18). A leaner style, with cool-area fruit that is ripe and restrained. Redcurrant, mint, subtle herbs and menthol all come through on the palate. The tannins are fine, though ample, leaving a talc-like texture on the finish. A very smart wine, that has years ahead of it.

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon

Reviewed: 27th March 2014

The dream run of vintages continues in the south west of Western Australia and the wines reviewed below deliver on the potential.

Of particular note was the Cullen Diana Madelaine.  Given the reputation of this producer, it is not surprising that it received gold medal points.  What was interesting however, was the way the wine presented.  Whilst recent vintages have been very austere, the 2012 is full of vibrant fruit.

Part of the story is told by the alcohol content.  At 13.5%, it is still at the lower end of Australian red wine, but it is at least a percent higher than the previous vintage.  Given the biodynamic nature of the vineyard, I assume that lunar cycle allowed for later picking dates than the year before.  Either way, the wine is a standout and can be enjoyed now or in 20 years.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Diana Madelaine – 2012 (18.5+).  Excellent depth here, with dark blackcurrant fruit that is rich, but not heavy.  The palate is silky and supple, with very fine tannins coating the tongue, but not interfering with the texture.  Excellent length and refinement on the finish.  A subtle wine, where the fruit is allowed to shine above the supple oak.  A lovely wine and the most accessible from Diana Madelaine for some years (13.5% alc).

Juniper Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.8).  More peppermint here, with ripe, cool fruit characters.  There are also hints of eucalypt.  This is a leaner example that is more akin to Bordeaux in style.  Good length, but needs some time to add flesh to the bones.  The finish is elegant and supple, with ripe tannins. (RRP $60).

Xabregas – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Dense, dark fruits here.  Powerful and textured, with firm, yet fine tannins.  Prodigious length to the palate with blackberry and blueberry over savoury fruit.  The finish is incredibly long, the tannins drawing the palate to a close.  An intense wine that needs many years to show its best.  Worth a punt at around $30.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17.5 – 18).  Lovely wine!  Combines ripe fruit with restraint and lovely texture.  A really complete wine that has sweet fruit, ripe tannins and supple texture on the finish.  Now or in 5 – 10 years. (RRP $30).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon/Touriga – 2009 (17.5).  An interesting blend that combines the minty cabernet with plump touriga fruit characters.  The nose has attractive, generous fruit that is ripe and rich, with some mocha notes.  Cedar, spice, camphor, mint, eucalypt and gentle, dried herbs evolve in the mouth.  A big style that will appeal to lovers of big, juicy reds.

West Cape Howe – Cabernet Sauvignon – Book Ends – 2011 (17.5).  Blackcurrant, plum and cherry fruit on the nose.  The palate is savoury and tight, with the acid and fine tannins effectively shutting down the fruit initially.  Opens to show nicely ripe fruit characters with decent depth. (RRP $28).

Willoughby Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (17 – 17.5).  What this wine lacks in initial generosity, it makes up for in restrained elegance.  Classic cool-climate cabernet that has mint and eucalyptus over blackcurrant and plum fruit, with chocolate and cedary oak highlights.  Not overly dense, but an attractive wine that offers value. (RRP $22).

St Mary’s Winery – 2012 Vintage

Reviewed: 30th July 2013

There has been a lot of talk of late about the respective quality of the last few vintages in South Australia.  Despite the predictions of dire effects on the wines from the lesser years, I have seen a number of excellent wines from 2011, whilst the 2008 Grange (considered to be an atypically hot year) was recently awarded 100 points by Wine Spectator.

When it comes to the current release wines from St Mary’s, they all come from the 2012 vintage.  This vintage has been uniformly praised by winemakers and critics as being excellent in all major South Australian regions and is reflected in the quality of this year’s release.

St Mary’s is based in Penola in the Coonawarra region and they have quite a prestigious address (V&A Lane).  Interestingly, the Mulligans chose to label their wines as Limestone Coast, rather than Coonawarra.

A fascinating component of this tasting was looking at all the Bordeaux varietals vinified separately.  It gave me an insight into the various characteristics that the individual components can contribute to a blend.  Actually, this may make for an excellent dinner party activity where guests could be given the challenge of making the best blend!

For me, the highlight was the Pinot Noir.  I do not know of many pinots coming from the Limestone Coast, but this is an excellent effort that made the panel sit up and take note.

Reviewed

St Mary’s – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.5).  Excellent clarity in the glass.  The nose opens with pretty red fruits that are supple and vibrant.  This is an attractive, succulent wine of some charm.  The finish is full of minerals and the texture is spot-on.  The fruit characters include cherry, strawberry, anise and a hint of white pepper.  Varietally correct and very well made.

St Mary’s – Merlot – 2012 (17).  Good quality fruit here that has been sympathetically made.  Good mouth-feel and texture to a wine that can be drunk now, or in five years.

St Mary’s – Petit Verdot – 2012 (17).  This is quite a dense wine that is packed with essence-like fruit and prodigious tannins.  This is a big, powerful wine that combines intense fruit with structure and density.  If you are going to drink this now, it needs a big steak to balance the acidity.  Given time though, this will soften and integrate into a classy wine.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Franc – 2012 (16).  Compared to the fleshy fruit that the merlot possesses, this is a “bony” wine that is angular and lean.  With this wine, you can really see the attributes that cabernet franc can bring to a blend, but at the moment, the acidity dominates the leaner, red fruit characters.

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – House Block – 2012 (17.5+).  Balance is the key here.  This has bright red and black fruit characters set against a background of cedar, spice, aniseed and clove.  Long and mouth-watering, the bright acidity adds to the appeal.  Whilst it is not the finest wine here, it is one that has the most immediate appeal.  This wine would make a great match with food now, or will evolve and build for many years.

St Mary’s – Shiraz – 2012 (17.5).  Really deep smelling, with sour plum, spice and cedary notes.  This is well made, and the fruit is of good quality, though it needs a few years to soften and really come together.  The peppery fruit on the close rounds out a smart wine!

Western Australia’s Best Cabernet Region?

Reviewed: 20th July 2012

Everyone knows that Margaret River makes Western Australia’s (and possibly Australia’s) best cabernet based wines.  Right?  They certainly make the most high quality cabernets of any region in Australia.  The region also produces the highest number of quality wines as a percentage of the total volume produced.

But what about the Great Southern region centred around Frankland River?  Cabernet, after all, is not the main focus here.  The focus in the region is primarily on riesling and shiraz.  Cabernet plays a much smaller role in the region’s output.

The question of where the best WA cabernets come from was brought into sharp focus with the current tasting, courtesy of the new release wines of Larry Cherubino.  Here is a producer that has access to some of the best fruit in the state.  Submitted for the tasting were both the Margaret River and Frankland River cabernets under the Cherubino label as well as Frankland River cabernets under the Yard and Ad Hoc labels.

The Frankland River Cherubino was the star of the tasting and, at $110/bottle, was also significantly more expensive than the Margaret River version of the same wine.  In fact, when compared to the Margaret River wine, The Yard and Ad Hoc (Frankland) wines from the same producer represents excellent value for the quality on offer.

So Cherubino’s best (and most expensive) cabernet comes from Frankland River, but what about other producers?  Well, Houghton produces a number of very high quality wines from Margaret River, but their most expensive wine is the Jack Mann from Frankland River.  Separately, in a recent tasting of some of Margaret River’s finest cabernets, it was the 2010 Abercrombie from Howard Park (18.5 – 19pts) that stole the show.  The only problem was that this wine is also from Frankland!

So, in summary, three of Western Australia’s finest cabernet producers each source the fruit for their top wines from Frankland River and, in the case of Howard Park, this is my equal highest pointed cabernet of the year.

So to the rest of the tasting….

The wines from Xanadu are in top form and their current release cabernets are outstanding.  The standard release 2010 cabernet is an absolute steal at around $35, whilst their special release wines are stylish and very age-worthy.

This was a very high quality tasting with a number of excellent wines.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2011 (18.5).  An excellent wine that has a Jeckle and Hyde character.  Initially, this is very structured, with lean, precise fruit and a very long and drying finish.  This really builds in the glass to show full, ripe and dense fruit of the highest quality.  Flavour characters include mint, eucalypt and a touch of menthol.  An excellent, no-compromise wine that demands time in the cellar (or at least an hour or two in the decanter) if you are going to drink it now.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18/18.5+).  Very complex nose that has savoury characters balanced by fresh fruit aromas.  Think cedar, brambly blackcurrant, licorice, pepper and black fruits with earthy, forest floor highlights.  The palate is taut and austere, the acid, tannins and quality oak subduing the fruit.  Opens to show really dense, bright fruit with superb mouth-feel and structure. This wine is a star and is destined for a very long future.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – Stephens Road – 2010 (18.3).  Precise nose. Precise palate.  This is a superb wine, where the quality fruit has been carefully crafted in the winery.  Restrained mint and eucalyptus are present on both the nose and palate.  The oak is very fine and silky, though in combination with the tannins, serves to shut down the fruit.  Elegant and age-worthy.  (Made in tiny quantities).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – Wilyabrup – 2011 (18+).  Touch of sweet and sour here.  This is a much bigger, more textured wine than some here, with dense, chocolaty fruit.  Very long and persistent, with a somewhat chewy finish, though the balance is spot-on.  This demands time, or a big steak now.

Killerby – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (18).  Lovely minty cabernet fruit to open on the nose, with slightly dusty, cedary oak and a touch of herbs.  The palate has bright redcurrant, cedar and spice.  The oak is well married to the high quality fruit and the tannins, whilst firm, are not aggressive.  Quite a pretty wine now, but the best is yet to come, as the texture and mouth-feel build and replace the overt fruit characters.  Although it lacks a bit of joy now, give it time to open and I am sure the marks will get even higher.

The Yard – Cabernet Sauvignon – Riversdale Vineyard – Frankland River – 2011 (18).  Whilst there is no doubting the quality of fruit that has gone into this wine, it is a touch disjointed at present, with the fruit at odds with the oak and tannins now.  Chewy, textured and dense, this is a powerful wine.  Like a jigsaw, the pieces will come together over time allowing the full picture to be seen.

Ad Hoc – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Avant Gardening – 2012 (17.9).  Smart wine here.  This has lean fruit, courtesy of the cooler region, though the fruit is fully ripe.  The palate is powerful, taut and full of nervous energy.  The finish is more about the structure, as the oak and fruit tannins shut down the fruit characters.  Whilst this is quite user friendly, I would still recommend decanting now to drink with a steak, or give it a few years to hit its straps.

Victory Point – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2008 (17.8).  Cedar and spice on the nose, with a core of ripe fruit and regional mintiness.  The palate is dense, thick and textured, a wine with plump, ripe fruit.  Opens with air to show lovely minty fruit, good texture and fine tannins.  The oak is present, but not overt and carries the finish well.  Quite a big wine that could be drunk now or in 10 years.

Thompson Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (17.5-18+).  Quite subdued nose that merely hints at the potential of this wine.  The palate is drying, long, savoury, restrained, fine and elegant, with dusty tannins framing the finish.  Beneath it all is serious, opulent fruit and good line and length in the mouth.  Just needs time to show its best.

Bussell – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – JG – 2011 (17.9).  A lovely wine that has ripe cabernet fruit as the focus.  The winemaking has been very sympathetic to the high quality, refined fruit, with the oak providing a framework in which the fruit sits.  Hints of mint and eucalyptus to close on a long, lingering finish.  Real potential here.

Castelli – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Il Cavaliere – 2010 (17.5).   Aromas of redcurrant and cedar to open.  Thick, dense fruit up front in the mouth, but the middle palate is quite subdued at first, with the tannins really closing this down.  Genuine Bordeaux style.

Yalumba – Cabernet Sauvignon – Y series – 2011 (17.3).  Blackcurrant, cedar and cool climate fruit on the nose, with redcurrant fruit to close.  This is very persistent and elegant, the precise fruit well matched to the oak.  Good length, but needs 5 years to hit its straps.  Good value.

Brookland Valley – Cabernet Sauvignon – Unison – 2011 (17).  A solid wine that has lovely, cool climate, cabernet characters.  Mint, eucalypt and herbal notes to the fore on the nose, and these flow through to the palate.  The oak sits well with the ripe fruit and there is enough structure to take some aging.

Western Australian Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 Vintage

Reviewed: 4th June 2013

One of the local wine groups recently hosted a tasting of many of the best 2010 cabernets from Margaret River. This presented a wonderful opportunity to look through a very strong line up.

Margaret River has been blessed with many good or great vintages starting in 2007 and continuing to 2013. 2010 is considered by many to be one of the best!

There were a couple of real highlights. None more so than the Abercrombie from Howard Park. This is right up there with the best young Australian cabernets that I have tried. The others were the Penfolds Bin 707 (Iron fist in a velvet glove) and Xanadu (Outstanding value). I note that the 2009 Xanadu cabernet topped a recent tasting in Gourmet Traveller, so this outfit is obviously in great form!

The tasting served to highlight the consistent quality of the vintage, as well as the superb standard of Western Australian cabernets.

  • Tasted:                  21
  • Reviewed:            12

Reviewed

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2010 (18.5 – 19). This is a beautiful wine! The nose has perfumed, fragrant fruit that is beautifully ripe and balanced. The palate is silky, supple and refined and the finish near seamless. The length is outstanding, as is the wine-making. The balance really is the key to this wine. The finish has powerful, yet silky tannins. I can only guess at how long this wine can be aged, but it may well outlive me.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 – 2010 (18.5 – 19). This is a superb wine as it combines fruit that is concentrated and powerful with elegance and sophistication. The superb fruit is redolent of blackcurrant, with hints of cassis. Supple, fine and round in the mouth, the tannins and oak add depth and texture without overwhelming the fruit. Superb balance here and a wine built for the long haul.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). Concentrated fruit on a nose that is classic cabernet. The palate is powerful and structured yet has plenty of red fruits. Long and savoury, this is a wine that is all about potential. Everything is in place, it just needs 10 years to start to evolve and build. Will be very long lived.

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). Now this is a great effort! Superb fruit quality has been matched to very fine oak and slick wine-making. This is elegant and refined, yet there is latent power palpable on the palate. The finish is very long and near seamless, the oak texture adding density to the fruit. This may well be the bargain of the year.

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2010 (18.5). I could define this as an elegant monster. Refined, fine, tight and structured, this has superb wine-making, balance and composure. Underneath the refined exterior is a wine of tremendous power and concentration. The fruit is of the highest quality, yet the finish is quite subdued now. In 10 – 15 years, this may well be one the best wine here.

Fraser Gallop – Cabernet Sauvignon – Parterre – 2010 (18.5). Cooler fruit aromas that combine minty red fruits with a touch of eucalyptus and herbs. The palate is quite shut down by the acids and tannins, yet the fruit is supple and fragrant, complementing the structure very well. Not mainstream, yet a very compelling wine.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Scottsdale – 2010 (18.4). Opens with hints of menthol and jubes. This is a delicious wine that has ripe, yet cool climate fruit combined with slick wine-making. The very long palate has a slightly chewy finish. The density of fruit is deceptive and the tannins are very fine, though ample. A great each way bet, as this is good drinking now, but is also sure to age well.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Leston – 2010 (18.3). The fruit here is fine, fragrant, supple, bright, long and savoury. The bright acid carries the finish, where the tannins are soft, yet palpable. A lovely wine of elegance and class, though a few years would really be of benefit.

Hay Shed Hill – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2011 (18.2). Menthol and a touch of herbs on the nose suggest a cooler sub-region or vintage. The palate is bright and fine, yet taught and tightly wound. The cooler region characters are also present on the palate, yet this is beautifully ripe and supple. The palate is only medium weight, yet there is real presence and excellent length and persistence. Drinks well now, but sure to age for many years.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gladstones – 2010 (18++). I like this for the balance of dense fruit and elegant structure. This is somewhat of a sleeper, as the fruit density on the mid palate is a touch lean, yet all the elements are in place for this to blossom with time in the bottle. Blackcurrant, cedar, spice and very fine tannins all flow on a finish that, whilst not seamless now, is very seductive all the same.

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wisdom – 2010 (18). Lovely fragrant red fruits that are a touch softer and more straight forward than some here. The bright fruit combines on the palate with complex savoury characters, supple oak and fine tannins. The length is outstanding and the structure really evolves and builds in the mouth. Did I mention that this was long? (Excellent value from Margaret River).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – 2010 (18). This is quite a subtle wine on the nose, though the palate has plenty of life courtesy of the bright acidity. This is quite lean initially, and Bordeaux lovers will appreciate the structure. Opens to show real potential. An elegant wine with real finesse.

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret – 2011. (17.8+). Youthful, closed and tight on both he nose and palate, this has eucalyptus and hints of menthol. Cedary oak is quite prominent on the finish, though the fruit is visible through the tannins and acid. This needs time to evolve as there is excellent fruit and wine-making. (Another ring in from 2011).