Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Winery in Focus: Ostler

Barry Weinman: 28^th April 2016

Central Otago Pinot Noir is often defined by purity of fruit combined with a degree of generosity This combination makes for great drinking wines that can also age well in the short to medium term.

The Pinots from Ostler continue this theme, but in addition, there is an earthy/ meaty component expressed in all their Pinots.

At the time of writing, limited stocks of the older wines are available in Perth.

Reviewed

Ostler – Riesling – Lakeside – 2013 (17.5 – $33). Floral, sweet fruit that is musk-like and very attractive. The palate is bright, with the musk giving way to a core of lemon and lime. Long, the finish has an almost chalk-like texture and excellent balance. There is a touch of honey on the close.

Ostler – Pinot Gris – Audrey’s – 2013 (17 – $35). Nutty, almost grassy fruit, more in a Grigio style. The palate is oily, viscous and textured. A savoury wine that will sit well with fresh antipasto. A touch more cut-through would see this get higher marks.

Ostler – Pinot Gris – Audrey’s – 2014 (17.5 – $35). A more floral style that has pretty fruit and structure. The palate is fresh, with fine acidity playing nicely against the subtle residual sugar and a touch of phenolic richness. A refreshing style that will be great on its own, or with richer food.

Ostler – Riesling – Blue House – 2012 (17.8 – $30). Oily and textured, with a core of minerality and touches of oily/petroleum notes. The palate is moderately sweet, but retains lovely balance courtesy of the refined acidity. Long, the floral fruit is more of a feature than the sugar. The hint of marmalade on the close adds to a great drinking wine.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Blue House – 2013 (17.7 – $34). Decent complexity and power to the fruit, with excellent balance. Chewy and textured, but not overly structured, allowing the fruit to be the primary focus. Nice drinking. Opens up with air and builds depth. A touch savoury on the close.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2013 (18.2 – $65). Cherry, spice, hints of smoke and tobacco. The balance is a highlight. There is excellent length, a silky mouth-feel and almost seamless palate transition. With air, the structure builds, adding depth and power to the fruit. Good now, but better in 3 years.

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2011 (17.9). Colour just starting to show the effects of age. A bit of earthy pong on both the nose and palate, with roast meats, licorice and chocolate. This is a rich, generous wine that is drinking a treat. Not classical in style, but will accompany roast meats well over the coming months.

Tuscan Wine Exploration

Barry Weinman: 24^th April 2016

When I think of the wines of Tuscany, two wines typically come to mind. Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino. But as this tasting amply demonstrated, that is selling this remarkable region short. The super Tuscan wines and those from Bolgari in particular are some of the real stars of the region.

It is ironic that some of the most expensive wines from the region, such as Antinori’s Solaia carry the generic IGT Toscana appellation, due to the use of Cabernet Sauvignon, which precludes the use of the Chianti name.

In this line-up, the Tignanello from Antinori shone brightly in a group of excellent wines.

Reviewed:

Antinori – Cabernet Sauvignon/Sangiovese – Solaia – IGT Toscana – 2004 (18). Complex leather and earth notes, an almost floral fruit character and a touch of savoury plum. The palate has tobacco, hints of licorice, spice and plum like notes. Cedary oak to close and fine tannins. Developed, but not that old.

Antinori – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon – Tignaello – 1999. (18.7). Savoury, earthy notes on the nose. With leather and licorice, there is great depth and power, with a silky, almost seamless finish that is very long. Talc-like tannins and supple acid cuts through on the finish. Fine, elegant and drinking superbly, this is a magical wine.

Valdicava – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – 2001 (18). Very different style, with distinct structural components and chewy tannins. If anything, this is still a touch closed. Excellent length to the almost cherry-like fruit. Very powerful, this will live for years to come.

Farnito – Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon – Camponibbio – 2005 (17.5). Freshness of fruit a highlight. Sweet, ripe and supple fruit on the palate. Silky, the textural components sit well with the fruit. Excellent length, the fruit runs right through the palate.

San Filippo – Sangiovese – Le Lucere – Brunello di Montalcino – 2010 (17.8). Youthful and vibrant, with an abundance of fine fruit complemented by supple tannins and oak. Whilst firm, there is a lovely immediacy to the wine. Souring acidity and dusty tannins to close. Great now, but will age well for years.

Nino Negri – Nebiolo – Sfursat – Sforzato di Valtellina – 2010 (17.5). A more serious effort, with depth and structure. Almost chewy, the fine tannins sit nicely with the fruit. Supple and approachable, yet there is good depth. Nice.

Uccelliera – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – Reserva – 2004 (18.5). Real depth to the fruit. Powerful, chewy, textured, structured and very long. The fruit is still suppressed now. An amazing wine that will easily live for another 10 years.

Antinori – Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon – Tignaello – 2008 (18.3). More accessible, with almost cherry notes. Savoury and spicy, with white pepper highlights. The supple textural notes complement the fruit. A delight to drink.

Frascole – Sangiovese – Chianti Rufina – 2012 (17.5). Savoury, sesame and water cracker notes. The cherry-like fruit is chewy, long and supple. This is drinking a treat.

Antinori – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – Pian delle Vigna – 1997 (17.8). Savoury, acidic, taut. Very long, but just a touch tough.

Fantini – Edizione – Cinque Autoctoni – 14 – 2012. (18.5). This might have a very complicated name, but the wine is excellent. Super sweet ripe fruit. Cedar and vanilla from the oak. Supple structure, excellent length. Remarkably approachable, given the structural components. Will live for a long time. Massive bottle is an environmental disaster, but looks great. ($47 from My Wine Guy)

Monsanto – Sangiovese – Chianti Classico – 2007 (18) What a lovely wine. The fruit is bright and fresh, but the savoury, structured nature of the wine suggests that further aging will be of benefit. Long and savoury, with souring acidity, this is a somewhat traditional style

Il Palazzone – Sangiovese – Brunello di Montalcino – 2006 (18.5). Super sweet fruit set against fresh oak that has a distinctly vanillin oak characters. The palate has traditional structural elements making this savoury and smart.

April New Release

Barry Weinman: 16^th April 2016

Those that know me know that I am not the biggest fan of Rosé. In general, I would rather drink a Riesling or a perhaps a refreshing Italian Moscato.

The Domaine Gavote, however, has made me rethink my bias. Here is a refreshing wine that is full of life, making for an excellent drink. This is imported direct by Lamont’s in Cottesloe and should be available for $25 – $30.

The other highlight of this tasting was the new Moss Wood Cabernet. A brilliant wine that is destined for a long future.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Rosé – DJL – 2015 (16.5 – $24). A really interesting wine that has a combination of sweet and savoury characters. Floral, the mid-palate fruit sweetness gives way to fresh acidity, with decent length on the close. Well balanced and great drinking cold.

Domaine Gavote – Rosé – Cuvee Clarendon – 2014 (17 – $30). Hints of strawberry and musk on the nose. The palate is savoury, dry and long. This is a food-friendly style that has plenty of appeal. The hint of sweetness adds flesh to the palate. An aromatic style, typical of Provence.

Deep Woods – Rose – Harmony – 2015 (16.5 – $15). Savoury, with a core of bright fruit. Long and almost chewy, with a long supple finish. A decent effort.

Sandalford – Cabernet Sauvignon – Prendiville Reserve – 2014 (18+). Sweet fruit and savoury oak on the nose. The depth and power of the intense fruit obvious, yet there are pretty, almost floral notes on both the nose and palate. Chewy and textured to close, the fine tannins fan out, accompanied by the fragrant fruit. Perhaps a touch old-fashioned, but a lovely wine now – 20 years. The best wine that I have seen under this label in recent years.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Wilyabrup – 2013 (18.5+ – $120). Brilliant colour. Closed, tight and powerful, yet the tannins and acid do not overwhelm the high quality fruit. Just a baby now, this will blossom with time. Very long, silky and focussed, with great palate transition. The depth and power are noteworthy.

Cabernet Sauvignon – April 2016

Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 3^nd April 2016

Margaret River is synonymous with high quality Cabernet based wines, so it should come as no surprise that several of the wines reviewed for this tasting scored very well. What did surprise though, was just how good the two wines from Vasse Felix were.

I am not talking about the Heytesbury. Rather, it was the cheaper Filius and “Gold Capsule” Cabernets from 2014 that really shone, upstaging some very expensive wines.

One panellist was heard to ask why Vasse Felix had used such premium fruit in their entry-level wine. (The Filius can be had for as little as $20). Whatever the reason, we are the winners, because this is a serious, age-worthy wine at a bargain price. This is the first straight Cabernet in this range, and will, over time, replace the Cabernet Merlot.

The Premier Cabernet (with the gold capsule) costs a bit more ($35 at Dan Murphy), but is nothing short of outstanding.

The other “bargain” was the Wolf Blass – Grey Label Cabernet/Shiraz. This has a degree of immediacy that makes for superb drinking over the next year or two, but will also age well for years to come. Delicious.

This tasting also brought my first look at the new Vanya from Cullen. An impressive wine that is stylistically different from the Diana Madelaine. This has the honour of being the most expensive wine ever released from Margaret River and rivals Bin 707 as Australia’s most expensive Cabernet.

Reviewed

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon – Vanya – 2012 (18.8). There is a real density of fruit on the nose. There are berry fruit notes, but the depth is arresting. The palate is firm, yet balanced, with fine tannins fanning out on the finish. Remarkable balance, poise and length. Great now, but will be at its best in 10 – 20 years. The finish has a sprinkling of graphite adding texture. Give it air if drinking young. Striking bottle. (RRP $350).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Gold Capsule” – 2013 (18.6 – $40). Beautiful purity of fruit on the nose: Ripe, focussed blackcurrant aromas with a complex, savoury, herbal edge. The palate, in contrast, is taut, textured and unyielding. The souring acidity is the main focus on the finish, with remarkably fine tannins and oak adding texture and depth. The fruit shows hints of mint and eucalypt. Will drink beautifully any time over the next 20 years.

Wolf Blass – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Grey Label – 2013. (18.5 – $40). Quite approachable, yet with a degree of depth on both the nose and palate. The tannins, whilst initially fine, take on a chewy component at the close. Excellent length, this lingers for a very long time. A bit like the proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, the elegant, supple red berries give way to serious fruit power.

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Filius – 2014 (18.3 – $25). Closed, yet complex wine, with a herbal, earthy edge. The palate is closed and taut, with chewy tannins. There is obvious potential here, but the superb fruit needs a bit of time to open up. A bargain!

Chardonnay: March 2016

Chardonnay

Barry Weinman: 30^th March 2016

In November, I previewed the wines of Cloudburst and came away with a great deal of respect for what the winery is trying to achieve. So I was really pleased when the 2014 Chardonnay showed so well in this masked tasting. A very fine and elegant wine, and also possibly the most expensive Chardonnay in the country.

At the other end of the price spectrum, the Kiss Me Kate Chardonnay is a beauty. The majority of the fruit is from the Adelaide Hills, with a small portion from McLaren Vale.

It will come as no surprise to anyone that both the Cullen and Pierro Chardonnays looked great.

Reviewed

Pierro – Chardonnay – 2014 (18.7). A serious wine here that has burgundy-like minerality, expressed as curry leaf aromas and flavours. The palate is seamless and refined, yet the core of complex, ripe fruit has real presence. An almost vanillin lift comes through on the close, suggesting high quality, tight grained French oak, and there is excellent mouth-feel and texture. Will be even better with a year or two in bottle. ($80).

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2014 (18.5). More obvious ripe fruit on the nose. Pineapple, melon and citrus with a backbone of peach-like fruit. The palate is rich, with the acid and oak sitting nicely with the fruit. An approachable style that provides immediate drinking pleasure, but will also age well for several years. A stately wine. ($100).

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2014 (18.4). Bright, elegant fruit, with peach and gentle melon. The palate is refined, with a creamy texture and fine French oak structure. Whilst there is a degree of restraint to the fruit, the wine has excellent poise and length. Builds depth in the glass, with a hint of toast from the quality oak. Needs time to show its best. ($250).Shingleback – Chardonnay – Kiss Me Kate – 2015 (18). Another refined wine, with gentle stonefruit characters. The palate is near seamless and elegant. Superb balance, the subtle acidity builds and carries the finish. The oak merely shapes the palate, rather than dominating it. A lovely wine that will drink well over the next 5 years. ($19 in dozen lots from the winery).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Cabernet Sauvignon

Barry Weinman: 18^th March 2015

The wines under the Streicker/Clairault labels continue to impress. In this tasting it was the entry level Cabernet from Clairault that made the biggest impact. Whilst the Estate and Cellar-Release are both impressive, it was the value of the Margaret River Cabernet that made me pay attention.

Reviewed

Deep Woods – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 2013 (18.5+). An appealing nose, showing red currant/berry, and a slightly herbal edge to the fruit. The tannins are slightly dusty, but very fine, with cedar notes from the oak. Long and dense, this gets almost chewy to close. An excellent cool climate Cabernet that has a long future. Trophy for best Cabernet at Melbourne Wine Show.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – Bin 9 – 2013 (18 – 18.5). A captivating wine that ticks all the boxes. The fine, red berry fruit is silky, giving way to somewhat drying tannins. The oak adds depth rather than overt flavour. Long and relatively powerful, this evolves in the glass and the mouth. An excellent wine. Drink after 2022. ($30 from Dan Murphy).

Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Family Crest – 2014 (18). A remarkable wine from McLaren Vale that has depth to the ripe fruit combined with poise and charm. Whilst Cabernet may not be fashionable in the “Vale” this is an excellent example that will benefit from medium term cellaring. (RRP $24, but available for $19).

Arivina Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18). Lovely mint and blackcurrant fruit, with hints of cedar and supple spice. The palate is supple and succulent, with layers of complex fruit, balanced by fine tannins that are ever so slightly grainy. Only mid weight, with hints of coffee from the oak adding to the appeal on the finish.

Clairault – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013 (17.9). (RRP $27). Great colour. Intense, ripe fruit on both the nose and palate. Plenty of extract and tannins, but these are remarkably fine, leaving the finish almost silky. An excellent drink any time over the next 10 years. Good value Margaret River Cabernet.

Shiraz – New Release

Barry Weinman: 12^th March 2016

The Hollick was the surprise package of this tasting. An excellent wine that became quite compelling once it had a chance to open up. At $25 it is also excellent value.

Reviewed

Hollick – Shiraz – 2013 (18.2) The deep purple colour in the glass is almost impenetrable. Quite closed on the nose, with hints of licorice and blackberry. There are plum characters on the palate, with a chocolate-like edge. The finish is firm and structured, courtesy of the fine oak and tannins. An impressive wine with a degree of richness to the fruit. Will benefit from a few years in the bottle. Fruit from Wrattonbully (RRP $25).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2013 (18). Opens with attractive cedar/pencil shavings notes from the oak, over a core of quality fruit. The palate has licorice, spice, fennel and ripe plum notes, all wrapped in a lithe, medium-bodied structure. There are hints of eucalypt/mint to close. An attractive wine of some charm. (RRP $38).

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Two in the Bush – 2014 (17.5). (RRP$23). A richer style, with roast meats over dense plum-like fruit. There is a touch of eucalypt/mint to add interest. The palate is quite fruit-forward, with decent palate weight. That said there is enough structure to make this a decent drink.

Thorn-Clarke

Barry Weinman: 5^th March 2016

David and Cheryl Clarke bought and planted the first parcel of land for what is now Thorne-Clarke wines in 1987. Cheryl’s family (The Thorn’s) has grown grapes in the Barossa since the 1870s and, thanks to a vineyard owned by Cheryl’s dad (Ron Thorn), the winery has access to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world.

In addition to the two Barossa Valley vineyards, there are two in the Eden Valley. One is focussed on red grapes (Milton Park) and the other white grapes (Mt Crawford).

Reviewed

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Sandpiper – 2015 (17.5). Floral notes and a touch of perfume, with lanolin highlights. The palate is round and supple, with musk and passionfruit over zesty lemon. Good length and fine acid and structure to close. A good drink. (RRP $19, but you can pick this up for around $15).

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Eden Trail – 2015 (18). A pretty nose, with lovely floral notes and perfume. The palate is fine and elegant, with the structure and mouth-feel the key features. The gentle fruit sits well against this, making this a good drink now, but also ensuring that the wine will gain depth and presence in the bottle for many years. (RRP $24).

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2014 (17.5). (RRP $19). Sweet fruit that is attractive and succulent, with plum, licorice and a touch of cedar. The palate has fresh berry fruit, a touch of spice and is very gluggable. Delicious early consumption wine from the Barossa

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Eden Trail – 2014 (18). This has plum, spice and cherry fruit. The ripe fruit on the palate has excellent balance. The structure is quite silky, yet there is enough tannins and acid to keep the balance and allow for medium term aging. The length is commendable, with the oak framing the fruit nicely. Very approachable now, this was still looking good several days later. (RRP $28).

Chardonnay

Chardonnay – February New Release

Barry Weinman: 25^th February 2016

When it comes to Western Australian Chardonnay, Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series has long been the benchmark by which others are compared. The newly released (1^st March) 2013 vintage is yet another great wine under this label.

With a recommended retail price of $96, the wine may not appear cheap, but when put into the context of the great wines of the world, it is a real bargain. Its ability to age for decade or more adds to the appeal.

Over the last decade wines from the likes of Vasse Felix (Hetesbury), Cullen and Cape Mentelle (to name a few) have risen to the challenge, albeit in differing styles. In this tasting, Woodlands demonstrated just how far they have come with the variety.

The quality of the 2013 Chloe is outstanding. The big difference for me though, is just how approachable the wine is now. There is an immediacy to the wine that is arresting.

Reviewed

Woodlands – Chardonnay – Chloe – 2013 (18.7). Rich, powerful style, with no rough edges, slowly building stone fruit characters. The finish is deceptive, as whilst not overly dense, the flavours linger and taper to a very long close. Actually, the length is outstanding, with the very fine oak adding a sheen to the palate, without imparting obvious flavours. Outstanding drinking now. (RRP $75, but the winery had now moved onto the 2014 vintage).

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2013 (18.7). Intense nose that has fragrant stone fruit. The palate is sublime, with great depth and power to the fruit, and mouth-feel that is supple and very fine. Lemon, peach, nectarine and almond meal characters build in the glass, with the flavours lingering for some time. The balance elevates this beyond the ordinary. An arresting wine that will be at its best around the end of the decade. (RRP $96).

McHenry Hohnen – Chardonnay – Burnside Vineyard – 2013 (17.9). A bigger, more forward style that has plenty of appeal. There is pineapple, stonefruit and melon notes on the nose. There is good length, but the palate is a touch one-dimensional right now. Give it a year two to fill out. (RRP $40).

Howard Park Chardonnay

Howard Park Chardonnay – 2015 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 21^st February 2016

Jeff and Amy Burch have been involved with Howard Park winery since 1993, overseeing a significant expansion, which included the establishment of the Margaret River vineyards and winery.

As production grew, Howard Park was joined by the Madfish, and Marchand & Burch labels under the overall banner of Burch Family Wines. Marchand & Burch is a collaboration between the Burch family and Pascal Marchand (formally from Domaine Comte Armand and Domaine De La Vougeraie).

Interestingly, Marchand & Burch have two distinct ranges of wines:. one from Western Australia and the other from some of the great villages of Burgundy.

Locally, winemaking is overseen by the highly talented Janice McDonald, who joined in time for the 2011 vintage. Prior to this Janice worked at the likes of Deep Woods and Stella Bella.

All wines reviewed were from the 2015 vintage and were bottled in December. For wines that are relatively young, they have come together well, with the Flint Rock from Mt Barker drinking very well now.

Both the Howard Park and the Marchand and Burch really need 2 – 5 years to open up, though there is no denying the underlying quality of the wines.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2015 (18). Taut, restrained and bristling with vitality. The palate is delicious, with lemon and melon over creamy oak, cashew nut and subtle stone fruit. Long and refined, with excellent mouth-feel and complexity. Not as much depth as its big brother, but a great drink now. From Mt Barker (RRP $28).

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Miamup – 2015 (17.5). A modern style, where the quality fruit is enveloped by subtle structural notes. Long and taut palate, with fresh acidity and a lemony tang to close. Needs a year or two to show its best. From Margaret River (RRP $28).

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.5). Taut and unyielding at first. A thoroughly modern wine. Aromas of stone fruit and subtle tropical fruits build with air. There is a degree of viscosity on the palate, with excellent length and high acidity. The oak sits very much in the background. Needs a few years to show its best (RRP $54).

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2015 (18.5+). A lovely wine that straddles the stylistic boundary between the taut and richer examples. There is fresh fruit (grapefruit and nectarine), with fine oak and acidity carrying the finish. Near seamless, this will be even better in a couple of years. (RRP $73).