Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Shiraz – New Release

Barry Weinman: 12^th March 2016

The Hollick was the surprise package of this tasting. An excellent wine that became quite compelling once it had a chance to open up. At $25 it is also excellent value.

Reviewed

Hollick – Shiraz – 2013 (18.2) The deep purple colour in the glass is almost impenetrable. Quite closed on the nose, with hints of licorice and blackberry. There are plum characters on the palate, with a chocolate-like edge. The finish is firm and structured, courtesy of the fine oak and tannins. An impressive wine with a degree of richness to the fruit. Will benefit from a few years in the bottle. Fruit from Wrattonbully (RRP $25).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2013 (18). Opens with attractive cedar/pencil shavings notes from the oak, over a core of quality fruit. The palate has licorice, spice, fennel and ripe plum notes, all wrapped in a lithe, medium-bodied structure. There are hints of eucalypt/mint to close. An attractive wine of some charm. (RRP $38).

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Two in the Bush – 2014 (17.5). (RRP$23). A richer style, with roast meats over dense plum-like fruit. There is a touch of eucalypt/mint to add interest. The palate is quite fruit-forward, with decent palate weight. That said there is enough structure to make this a decent drink.

Thorn-Clarke

Barry Weinman: 5^th March 2016

David and Cheryl Clarke bought and planted the first parcel of land for what is now Thorne-Clarke wines in 1987. Cheryl’s family (The Thorn’s) has grown grapes in the Barossa since the 1870s and, thanks to a vineyard owned by Cheryl’s dad (Ron Thorn), the winery has access to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world.

In addition to the two Barossa Valley vineyards, there are two in the Eden Valley. One is focussed on red grapes (Milton Park) and the other white grapes (Mt Crawford).

Reviewed

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Sandpiper – 2015 (17.5). Floral notes and a touch of perfume, with lanolin highlights. The palate is round and supple, with musk and passionfruit over zesty lemon. Good length and fine acid and structure to close. A good drink. (RRP $19, but you can pick this up for around $15).

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Eden Trail – 2015 (18). A pretty nose, with lovely floral notes and perfume. The palate is fine and elegant, with the structure and mouth-feel the key features. The gentle fruit sits well against this, making this a good drink now, but also ensuring that the wine will gain depth and presence in the bottle for many years. (RRP $24).

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2014 (17.5). (RRP $19). Sweet fruit that is attractive and succulent, with plum, licorice and a touch of cedar. The palate has fresh berry fruit, a touch of spice and is very gluggable. Delicious early consumption wine from the Barossa

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Eden Trail – 2014 (18). This has plum, spice and cherry fruit. The ripe fruit on the palate has excellent balance. The structure is quite silky, yet there is enough tannins and acid to keep the balance and allow for medium term aging. The length is commendable, with the oak framing the fruit nicely. Very approachable now, this was still looking good several days later. (RRP $28).

Chardonnay

Chardonnay – February New Release

Barry Weinman: 25^th February 2016

When it comes to Western Australian Chardonnay, Leeuwin Estate’s Art Series has long been the benchmark by which others are compared. The newly released (1^st March) 2013 vintage is yet another great wine under this label.

With a recommended retail price of $96, the wine may not appear cheap, but when put into the context of the great wines of the world, it is a real bargain. Its ability to age for decade or more adds to the appeal.

Over the last decade wines from the likes of Vasse Felix (Hetesbury), Cullen and Cape Mentelle (to name a few) have risen to the challenge, albeit in differing styles. In this tasting, Woodlands demonstrated just how far they have come with the variety.

The quality of the 2013 Chloe is outstanding. The big difference for me though, is just how approachable the wine is now. There is an immediacy to the wine that is arresting.

Reviewed

Woodlands – Chardonnay – Chloe – 2013 (18.7). Rich, powerful style, with no rough edges, slowly building stone fruit characters. The finish is deceptive, as whilst not overly dense, the flavours linger and taper to a very long close. Actually, the length is outstanding, with the very fine oak adding a sheen to the palate, without imparting obvious flavours. Outstanding drinking now. (RRP $75, but the winery had now moved onto the 2014 vintage).

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2013 (18.7). Intense nose that has fragrant stone fruit. The palate is sublime, with great depth and power to the fruit, and mouth-feel that is supple and very fine. Lemon, peach, nectarine and almond meal characters build in the glass, with the flavours lingering for some time. The balance elevates this beyond the ordinary. An arresting wine that will be at its best around the end of the decade. (RRP $96).

McHenry Hohnen – Chardonnay – Burnside Vineyard – 2013 (17.9). A bigger, more forward style that has plenty of appeal. There is pineapple, stonefruit and melon notes on the nose. There is good length, but the palate is a touch one-dimensional right now. Give it a year two to fill out. (RRP $40).

Howard Park Chardonnay

Howard Park Chardonnay – 2015 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 21^st February 2016

Jeff and Amy Burch have been involved with Howard Park winery since 1993, overseeing a significant expansion, which included the establishment of the Margaret River vineyards and winery.

As production grew, Howard Park was joined by the Madfish, and Marchand & Burch labels under the overall banner of Burch Family Wines. Marchand & Burch is a collaboration between the Burch family and Pascal Marchand (formally from Domaine Comte Armand and Domaine De La Vougeraie).

Interestingly, Marchand & Burch have two distinct ranges of wines:. one from Western Australia and the other from some of the great villages of Burgundy.

Locally, winemaking is overseen by the highly talented Janice McDonald, who joined in time for the 2011 vintage. Prior to this Janice worked at the likes of Deep Woods and Stella Bella.

All wines reviewed were from the 2015 vintage and were bottled in December. For wines that are relatively young, they have come together well, with the Flint Rock from Mt Barker drinking very well now.

Both the Howard Park and the Marchand and Burch really need 2 – 5 years to open up, though there is no denying the underlying quality of the wines.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Flint Rock – 2015 (18). Taut, restrained and bristling with vitality. The palate is delicious, with lemon and melon over creamy oak, cashew nut and subtle stone fruit. Long and refined, with excellent mouth-feel and complexity. Not as much depth as its big brother, but a great drink now. From Mt Barker (RRP $28).

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Miamup – 2015 (17.5). A modern style, where the quality fruit is enveloped by subtle structural notes. Long and taut palate, with fresh acidity and a lemony tang to close. Needs a year or two to show its best. From Margaret River (RRP $28).

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2015 (18.5). Taut and unyielding at first. A thoroughly modern wine. Aromas of stone fruit and subtle tropical fruits build with air. There is a degree of viscosity on the palate, with excellent length and high acidity. The oak sits very much in the background. Needs a few years to show its best (RRP $54).

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2015 (18.5+). A lovely wine that straddles the stylistic boundary between the taut and richer examples. There is fresh fruit (grapefruit and nectarine), with fine oak and acidity carrying the finish. Near seamless, this will be even better in a couple of years. (RRP $73).

Red Burgundy

Red Burgundy – Part Two

Barry Weinman: 10^th February 2016

The panel looked at a few of the Red Burgundies imported by Lamont’s in Cottesloe.

With a number of producers and villages represented, there are a variety of styles available. They vary in price and quality, but are worth trying. If John Jens is in the restaurant, you may be able to try one or two by the glass.

Reviewed

Domaine Des Beaumont – Pinot Noir – Morey Saint Denis – 1er Cru – Les Millandes – 2013 (18.5+). Closed on the nose. The palate is dense and powerful, though it needs some time for the fruit to build into the structure. A masculine wine, with cherry, plum and real purity to the fruit. Impressive. (RRP $180).

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grands Epenots – 2012. (18.3). (RRP $200). Quite deep smelling, with floral notes and hints of roast meats. There is depth and power to the fruit. The palate is long, dense, savory and powerful, with supple cherry and spice. Superb drinking now, but will age well in the short term.

Domaine Bzikot – Pinot Noir – Volnay – 2013 (18). (RRP $80). Bright and fresh, with vibrant fruit and acidity. Mouthwatering and succulent, this is long and expansive. Builds in the glass. Good Value! Crying out for roast duck or other rich dishes.

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon

Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 6^th February 2016

When it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, either alone, or in combination with Semillon, I prefer the styles that are loosely modeled on the white wines from Bordeaux.

Typically a portion of the blend is fermented in barrel and then left on lees to gain texture and complexity. This may only be 5% – 20% of the total blend, but it is enough to add depth and texture to the final wine.

The 2013 Wallcliffe by Cape Mentelle is an excellent example, and worth seeking out.

Semillon is rarely made on its own in Margaret River. After trying the 2015 Moss Wood, it is clear that it is capable of making fine wine, albeit in a different style to those made in the Hunter Valley.

The commercial reality is that blends are easier to sell than straight Semillon. Vasse Felix, for example have stopped production of their excellent example.

Reviewed

Cape Mentelle– Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Wallcliffe – 2013 (17.8). Pineapple and tropical notes on the nose over complex barrel ferment/lees characters that suit the fruit perfectly. The flavours match the nose precisely, with bright acid and textural components carrying the finish. Delicately handled. (RRP $45).

Moss Wood – Semillon – Wilyabrup – 2015 (17.5). Lovely nose with a touch of lantana and grassy fruit. Bright palate with lemon myrtle and crunchy apple. The long, savory finish is complemented by complex barrel-ferment characters. I like this style and it works brilliantly with food. (RRP $38).

Chateau Martinon – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Entre-Deux-Mers – 2014 (17.2). Lemon Brulee and home made lemonade on the nose. Really refreshing and interesting, with honeysuckle and gentle spice. Long, supple, mouth-filling and delicious.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc – Western Australia – 2014 (17.2). Smart wine. There is degree of density to the lemony fruit and a touch of viscosity. Long, chewy, textured and mouth-filling. (RRP $31).

Flametree – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2015. (17). Cooler region fruit, with grassy/herbaceous notes. Passionfruit and gooseberry on an approachable palate with decent texture. Hints of barrel fermentation, with refined acidity to close. A smart wine.

Cape Mentelle – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – 2015. (17). Textbook example. Refreshing and bright, with just enough texture to make it really enjoyable. (RRP $25).

Chardonnay

Chardonnay – New Release

Barry Weinman: 31^st January 2016

John Streicker, a New York based entrepreneur, has gradually been building a stable of older vineyards across the Margaret River region. This culminated in the purchase of Clairault winery in 2012. Bruce Dukes who had been making the Streicker wines at Naturaliste Vintners, was entrusted with the production of Clairault wines following the acquisition.

I recently reviewed the Streicker Shiraz and was impressed by the quality of both the fruit and winemaking. The Chardonnay also proved to be an excellent wine.

There were a number of other excellent wines reviewed including the great value Bond Road Chardonnay from Hollick. This is a wine that is drinking a treat now.

Ultimately, the wines from Flametree (SRS) and the Arivina were my top picks, though both would benefit from some time in the cellar.

Reviewed

Arivina Estate – Chardonnay – Wildwood Ridge – Reserve – 2014 (18.5). Very fine, high quality fruit on the nose, showing supple peach and nectarine. Tight grained oak on a palate that is very long, yet quite restrained. A lovely drink, with mouth-watering grapefruit acidity driving the finish. (RRP $55).

Flametree – Chardonnay – SRS – 2014 (18.5+). Barrel ferment characters on the nose that express as struck match and just a hint of curry leaf. The complex palate is full of grapefruit and melon characters, with taut acid. The oak is very fine (expensive) and adds depth to the finish. A superb wine. (97 Pts from Halliday). ($56 from Dan Murphy).Streicker – Chardonnay – Ironstone Block – 2012 (18.2). Complex aromas with hints of struck match, minerals and creamy lees notes. Pineapple fruit sits underneath. The palate is powerful and very long. The smoky notes from the oak complementing the fruit and lees work well. A bigger style, but also very very good. (RRP $41).

Cherubino – Chardonnay – 2014 (18+). Supple and fine, with stonefruit over citrus and melon notes. Long, the grapefruit acidity and tight knit oak define the finish. Needs a couple of years to settle down, but will be long lived and gain complexity along the way.

Grosset – Chardonnay – Piccadilly – 2013 (17.9). A more restrained style, with fresh fruit and acid. Quite modern, the winemaking influences present more as textural components rather than overt flavours. Long, with grassy, melon and grapefruit flavours, with a touch of smoke to close. Delicate and balanced, but this needs time to show its best (and score higher points). (RRP $55).

Note: A bottle of 1998 Grosset Chardonnay was drinking superbly recently.

Hollick – Chardonnay – Bond Road – 2013 (17.5). Creamy, with complex nutty notes. The fruit is quite rich and accessible on the palate, with decent texture and lemony acid. There is good length and hints of toast on the finish. Excellent drinking now.

New Release Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 24^th January 2016

When the temperature is nudging 40° C, tasting Shiraz and blends is not the easiest task, as keeping the wines cool (around 20 degrees) can be a challenge.

This is also an issue for drinking red wines in general in summer. A decent steak on the BBQ deserves a good quality wine, but the temperature at which the wine is served at can markedly alter the way the wine tastes.

As the wine warms up, the alcohol and sweetness can become more obvious, whilst the fruit can take on stewed characters.

Typically, I like to drink my red wines at “cellar” temperature, which is around 18° – 20° C. The balance and structure seems to be at its best around this point. Much cooler and the fruit characters can become quite subdued.

Even so, once poured, the wine quickly warms up in the glass.

There is no perfect solution. For this tasting, whilst the wines left the cellar at the right temperature, by the time they were served, they were a touch warm. Thirty minutes in the bar fridge did just the trick, bringing the fruit into focus.

At home, I will put the bottle and decanter in the fridge for up to an hour before serving. The wine will be a little too cold when first poured, but will quickly warm up to an appropriate temperature. I also only decant part of the bottle initially if there is only a couple of us, so that the remainder stays cool.
Reviewed

Bird in Hand – Shiraz – Mt Lofty Ranges – 2014 (18). Rich, peppery, fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is polished, silky, generous and plush, yet the balance is spot on, courtesy of the well-judged acidity. The fruit is concentrated, plump and round, with no rough edges. A wine that is perfectly suited to drinking now, or with a few years in the bottle. Delicious. (RRP $42).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Art Series – 2013 (18+). Lovely fruit over gentle oak and cinnamon/spice. This is a lighter bodied style, with excellent balance and poise. Silky mouth-feel adds to the appeal. Very fine and long, a delight to drink now, or in 5 – 10 years. (RRP $43).

Streicker – Shiraz – Bridgeland Block – Syrah – 2012 (18). The nose is complex and savoury. Ripe fruit on the palate in a medium bodied style, which gets quite fragrant with air. Sweet fruit to close. Concentrated fruit with cherry ripe/coconut hints to close. . Layered, the finish is very long, but needs a few years to open up. A highlight of the tasting, this is under the Clairault umbrella (the Streicker family own Clairault and several prominent vineyards in Margaret River. (RRP $43).

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Gravel Pit – 2014 (18). Lovely fruit on the nose, with plum and licorice. The palate is balanced and smooth, with vibrant fruit and supple winemaking. The tannins build, combining with the firm oak to shut down the fruit slightly on the close. Give it up to 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $30).

Willow Bridge – Shiraz – Dragonfly – 2014 (17.5). A delicious, good value wine with bright red fruits. The oak is evident, but not intrusive. Was at its best after sitting on the tasting bench for a couple of days, so may well benefit from a few years in the cellar. Do not serve too warm. (RRP $20).

Lindeman – Shiraz – Gentleman’s Collection – 2014 (17). An unusual wine, and one that was hard to judge. An altogether richer style, the sweet plump fruit is ripe and delicious with hints of chocolate. The addition of a small amount of fortified wine makes an impact, though the alcohol is only 14%, so it must be a very small amount. The sweet fruit on the palate has a touch of residual sugar, suggesting this could be served slightly chilled. (RRP $22).

Bargain Champagne

Barry Weinman: 20^th January 2016

Our “house” Champagne (the one that is always in the fridge in case a friend pops in) has varied over the years. Pol Roger has featured regularly; particularly when it’s has been on special closer to $50. The Pol Gessner has also featured, based on how well the wine has performed in masked tastings. The fact that it can be purchased for $35 has added to the appeal.

Our current “go to” wine is the Pierre Gimonnet – Cuvee Cuis – 1er Cru, a Blanc de Blanc of superb quality from a highly rated grower. I was amazed to find this advertised for $34 at 1^st choice and would encourage everyone to try a bottle. Being 100% Chardonnay, it is a leaner, racier style that might not suit everyone.

Whilst houses try to keep their NV Champagnes consistent from year to year, there may be subtle variations from year to year, reflecting the quality of the base and reserve wines. With this in mind, I thought it time to review some of the Champagnes that are currently available in Australia for under $50.

When we unmasked the wines at the end of the tasting, there were a couple of big surprises. The first was the Piper Heidseick. The cheapest of the Grand Marques, but a wine of charm and style. This excellent wine is available for under $40.

The biggest surprise however, was the Henri Laurent NV. This is produced by J Charpentier, and is a superb grower Champagne. What makes Charpentier different to most is that Pinot Meunier makes up the majority of his holdings and makes up 80% of this wine. Even more amazing is that Vintage Cellars is selling this for $30. One of the great bargains of the moment.

Finally, I included several wines from outside Champagne to give perspective. These were readily identified as being non-champagne. The Kreglinger was the stand-out from my perspective, but polarised the group due to the different style.

Recommended

Henri Laurent – Brut – NV (17.8). Pinot Meunier 85%/Chardonnay 15%/Pinot Noir 5%. Pale straw colour. Gentle red fruit on the nose, with hints of brioche and bread dough. The palate is soft and round, with lovely mouth-feel and texture. A refined, elegant wine of real charm. Not pretentious, just a delightful drink, with or without food. Quintessentially Champagne and an absolute bargain! ($35 from 1st choice, but was as low as $30 from Vintage Cellars).

Piper Heidsieck – Brut – NV (17 – 17.5). I really like the nose here. Gentle autolysis, bread dough, some stone fruit and hints of tropical fruit. The palate is taut and fresh, with excellent mouth-feel and presence. Elegant, fresh aperitif style and a good drink. ($38).

Moet & Chandon – Brut – Imperial – NV (17 -17.5). Actually quite fine. Fresh, but with enough autolysis notes to make the nose interesting. The palate is creamy and textural, with decent length. A touch of development adds interest, while the lemony confers life. A good wine.

Mumm – Brut – Cordon Rouge – NV (17). Does not give away a lot on the nose. The palate is defined by bright citrus and mineral characters, with attractive floral notes. Simple, but a good drink for the price. ($40).

Duperrey – Brut – Premier Cru – NV (17). Decent fruit characters on both the nose and palate, with a touch of perfume. Gentle lees and minerality add to the length on the finish.

Pol Gessner – Brut – NV (17). Quite straightforward, but with all of the characters of Champagne. Creamy mouthfeel, lemony fruit, supple texture, good length. ($36).

Kreglinger – Brut – 2006 (NR). I included this wine (along with wines from the Loire and Burgundy) to provide perspective and balance. The fact that it was in a slightly different style polarised the group. Outstanding fruit quality the feature here, conferring a real presence to the wine. Refined, balanced, elegant and very long, this is an excellent wine. Deserves a place in any cellar, but do not expect it to taste like Champagne! ($40).

New Burgundy Imports

Barry Weinman: 23 December 2015

Fluctuations in the Australian dollar have impacted on the price of some imported wines over the last few years. Whilst the big houses’ prices have stayed relatively stable, I have noticed fairly big shifts in the price of some wines, particularly from Burgundy. For a period, there was a flood of great value wines, but as the dollar has fallen, prices have risen accordingly.

Prices today now appear to be back around traditional levels. With this in mind, I was pleased to be able to look through a range of direct import wines brought in by Lamont’s. Whilst the wines are in no way cheap, they do offer a cross-section of styles, often showing excellent typicity and high quality.

My notes below are first impressions. There were over 60 available for tasting, so I did not dwell on any of the wines for long. Also, as the tasting was not a blind tasting, I have not allocated points to any of the wines.

Vintages

After very good vintages in 2009 and 2010 for both red and white Burgundy, 2011, 2012 and 2013 were more variable.

According to Jancis Robinson (http://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/vintages/burgundy-white), in both ‘12 and ‘13 the high quality of white Burgundy proved much better than most expected. The downside was that volumes were much reduced. 2011 was not so lucky.

Reds fared better in some parts in 2011, but again, the ‘12s and ‘13s fared were stronger overall. http://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/vintages/burgundy-red

The Wine Enthusiast was more supportive of 2011, as was The Wine Advocate.: https://www.winemag.com/PDFs/Vintage_Chart_2015.pdf

First Impressions

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2012. Fairly straightforward, but clear typicity. Minerality and texture over fresh fruit, hints of grapefruit and melon. ($122)

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – Champ Canet – 2013. Fine minerality and fruit, with hints of flint. This is really smart. The palate is bright, textured and long, with a fine finish. ($186).

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – Perrierres – 2013. Bigger, richer and more expressive. Long, powerful palate with stone fruit in the peach spectrum, minerals and melon. Great length to close. ($186).

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Mersault – Perrierres – 2013. Refined and balanced. Less overt power than its sister wine from Puligny, but with lovely grace and balance. Long and fine, with gentle minerality to close. A graceful wine. ($255).

Pierre Morey – Mersault – 1er Cru – Charmes – 2013. Quite generous fruit, yet the acid and minerals add restraint and balance. Long and refined, this is a smart wine with a zesty finish. ($199).

Jean Monnier et fils – Meursault Genenrieres – 1er Cru – 2013. The potential is there, but this is quite acidic and restrained at present. Hints of smoke to close. Taut and fresh, give it 5 years to show its best. ($98)

Phillippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2011. Fragrant cherry fruit on the nose. The palate is light and fresh, the weight matching the gentle fruit. Good length, this wine will suit current drinking. ($104).

Phillippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Clos Village – 2012. More depth and density compared to the 2011. Cherry fruit and supple spice, with a core of minerality. This finish is defined by fine, drying tannins which frame the fruit perfectly. Long and supple finish. Now – 5 years. ($104).

Phillippe Livera – Pinot Noir – Chapelle Chambertain – Grand Cru – 2010. Feminine, delicate fruit on the nose. The palate has cherry and spice, with cedary oak. The power here really builds, gaining depth and texture. The length is a feature. A spectacular wine with innate power, reflecting the vintage. ($N/A).

Domaine Humbert Freres – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 1er Cru – Estrournelles St Jacques – 2012. A lovely purity to the fruit, with power and structure. This is a big wine that needs a few years, but will reward ($255).

Jean-Marc Millot – Pinot Noir – Echezeaux – Grand Cru – 2011. Limpid appearance. This is pretty, refined and elegant. There are cherry fruit notes with subtle spice. Delicate, this is a great effort for the year. ($264).

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grand Epenots – 2012. Cherry, spice and supple tannins all feature here, with bright acidity driving the finish. Angular, this needs a few years to let the high quality fruit shine. ($192).

Pierre Morey – Pinot Noir – Pommard – 1er Cru – Grand Epenots – 2013. For current drinking, I prefer the balance here. More feminine and refined, with gentle structure. Drink over the next few years while waiting for the 2012 to hit its straps. ($196).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Vieille Vignes – 2013. Grace and power is a feature of all Geantet wines, and this is no exception. Refined, elegant and silky. Souring acidity adds life. Cherry spectrum fruit and a very clean finish. ($125).

Emilie Geantet – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 1er Cru – Les Champeaux – 2013. Seductive nose, with cherry and anise. The cherry fruit here is breathtaking: intense, yet refined and balanced. The finish is long and supple, with tight knit oak adding depth. Evolves and builds. A superb wine and my pick of the tasting. I might need to have a word to Santa… ($192).