Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Negotiants Imported Wine Tasting – June 2015

Chateau Musar, New Zealand Pinot Noir, French Wines

12^th July 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Here are my first impressions on a range of excellent wines imported by Negotiants. Part of the Yalumba group, Negotiants has the most extensive range of high quality wines in Australia, so products should be widely available (though they may need to be ordered in).

The two highlights for the tasting were the bracket of Pinot Noirs, and tasting though several wines from Chateau Musar with Ralph Hochar, the grandson of founder Gaston Hochar.

Situated in Lebanon, Chateaux Musar was founded in 1930, with the aim of producing fine wines in the tradition of Bordeaux. Gaston’s son Serge was named Decanter Magazine’s inaugural “Man of the Year” in 1984. This was in recognition of his remarkable achievement in producing wines through the Lebanon civil war.

The Bekaa Valley is now home to a number of vineyards and wineries, but Chateau Musar remains their most famous export.

Reviewed

Marc Bredif –Chenin Blanc – Brut – NV. Creamy, textural nose. The palate is rich and generous, with decent acidity to keep the fruit balanced, and there is good length. An interesting and worthwhile alternative to Champagne. Will take antipasto very well.

Pol Roger – Champagne – 2004. Complex nose, but not overtly influenced by lees. The fruit really shines here, with pinot richness adding depth. Long, this is a very subtle, fine wine.

Pol Roger – Champagne – Rose – 2004. This has the palest salmon colour. A touch more red fruits on the nose compared to the vintage. Fine and elegant, with zesty acidity, but the subtle complexity drives the finish. Sublime.

Domaine du Vieux Telegraph – Chateauneuf du Pape – la Crau – 2012. Supple, subtle red fruits on the nose, with complex mineral and spice notes. The palate is alive, with vibrant fruit leading into savoury, earthy notes. Very long and fine, with minerality and texture, a wine of real presence and style.

Chateau Musar – Rhone Blend – Hochar Pere Et Fils – 2008. Lighter, pale colour, tending towards brick red. Lovely fragrant fruit with spice and depth to the nose. The palate is savoury and complex. The fruit is subdued, allowing the gentle complex characters to shine. The acid drive adds length. Good now with hearty food, this is from a lighter year, and is made to drink earlier than the premium wine.

Chateau Musar – Cabernet Blend – 2007. Lighter colour reflecting the age and the style. There is serious power to the fruit, yet the wine comes across as elegant and refined, with great length and texture. Not mainstream, but a lovely drink. (33% new oak and is from a strong year).

Chateau Musar – Cabernet Blend – 2000. Quite Burundian. Feminine, floral, complex, with ripe, savoury, spicy fruit. The palate is remarkable for the way the fruit builds and gains depth. A savoury treat.

Pinot Noir

Nautilus – Pinot Noir – 2012. Nice balance of fruit and savoury complexity on the nose. The palate is fresh, with the structured fruit giving way to oak and fruit tannins on the close. Quite serious, but needs a year or two. From Marlborough.

Fromm – Pinot Noir – Clayvin Vineyard – 2013. I liked this a lot. Serious fruit with cherry and spices – clove and cardamom. The palate is fresh and light, with an almost ethereal character. Delicate, refined and very long, this is a delightful wine. Now – 5 years.

Grasshopper Rock – Pinot Noir – Earnscleugh Vineyard – 2012. Restrained and taut, yet with a core of vibrant fruit running through the palate. Quite savoury to close. A fine effort from Central Otago, without the fleshiness often seen from this region.

Valli – Pinot Noir – Gibston Vineyard – 2013. Dense ripe fruit, showing cherry, plum and spice, typical of Central Otago. The palate is dense, with earthy notes adding depth and interest. The long finish sees the tannins dry up the fruit somewhat, making this a good prospect for a few years in the cellar, or served with lamb now.

Two Paddocks – Pinot Noir – 2013. A complete wine from Central Otago that is a great drop now. Deceptive, as the intrinsic quality is easy to miss due to the ease of drinking. Who needs food?

Ata Rangi – Pinot Noir – 2013. Brilliant colour. The nose is complex, yet delicate and refined. The palate has vibrant fruit, with a cloak of oak and tannins. The souring, cherry-like acidity really cuts through on the finish, ensuring drive and focus. With excellent length and persistence, the fruit fans out on the close. A brilliant wine that can be drunk any time over the next 10 years.

Francois Feuillet – Pinot Noir – Chambole Musigny – 1er Cru – Les Sentiers. A lovely nose that combines savoury/spicy notes with supple fruit. The palate is bright and fresh, with menthol and hints of tar and aniseed.

Geantet-Pansiot – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – 1er Cru – Le Poissenot – 2010. Quite savoury at first, with meaty/earthy notes. That said, there is a core of ripe, powerful fruit that defines the wine. The palate is quite elegant, with the earthy/savoury minerality carrying the length of the palate. Very long, this is a fine wine indeed. Not cheap, but very good.

Dugat – Py – Pinot Noir – Gevery Chambertain – Ville Vignes – 2008. Concentrated fruit on the noseDepth provided by the complex earthy notes. Old vines really show their worth here. On the palate, the balance is excellent, though the fruit is actually quite muted, shut down by the structural components and savoury oak. Superb wine in the making, and remarkable quality for a village wine.

Flowstone Wines– New Release – July 2015

9^th July 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Stuart Pym at Flowstone wines has a stated aim of releasing his wines with a degree of bottle age to improve the drinkability and accessibility of the wines on release. He also has an aim of limiting production to only 1200 cases per year. This has presented him with the enviable challenge of trying to allocate stock, but still retain enough to supply restaurants who want to maintain a consistent wine list.

For the 2015 vintage, a dedicated winery opened adjacent to Flowstone’s vineyards in Forrest Grove. This will give Stuart even greater control over the winemaking process. These are carefully crafted wines, of high standard, so the future looks very promising indeed.

I tasted the wines with Stuart, therefore no scores are given. The quality of the wines was, however, excellent, and my picks are below.

Reviewed

Flowstone – Sauvignon Blanc – 2013. This has a really complex nose showing gooseberry, flint, struck match and lees work. The palate is rich and textured, with quality lemony fruit. Almost chewy, the finish is long and fine, with linear acidity and a touch of minerality. The oak is mainly for texture (fermented in one new 600l barrel with 47mm staves, the rest old). Good drinking. (RRP $32).

Flowstone – Chardonnay – 2012. Complex and rich, with struck match, minerality and barrel ferment notes. That said, there is a core of ripe fruit characters. This spends 12 months in high-quality French oak barrels, of which 20% are new. The wine goes though 100% malo-lactic fermentation which adds richness, yet the wine retains life. Excellent current drinking, but will age for a few years if that is your preference. (RRP $36).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon/Touriga – 2011. A 70%/30% blend. Initially, this is closed and tight on both the nose and the palate. The quality fruit is evident, but it needs years to evolve. Shows mint and eucalypt from the Cabernet, whilst the Touriga adds weight and depth to the finish. Tannins and oak keep fruit in check, but do not dominate. (2 years in oak, 20% new). Very long, this ideally needs 5 – 10yrs to start hitting its straps. (RRP $36).

Flowstone – Cabernet Sauvignon – Queen of the Earth – 2011. Lovely, classic Margaret River nose, with gentle eucalypt and mint over blackcurrant fruit. Continues on the palate, with dense fruit and fine, savoury tannins. Subtle oak to close adds depth (3 years in new oak). A lovely wine with great length and mouth-feel (RRP $75 – 99 Dozen made).

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

12^th July 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

The life of a wine writer is not as glamorous as you might imagine. Tasting through 20 Sauvignon Blancs for example, is difficult due to the high acidity. Many of the panel tastings that I hold have numerous commercially sound, but unexciting wines, with just a few interesting/high-quality wines interspersed to justify the time taken to try them. Then there is the spit buckets…

Then there are the good days. Bracket after bracket of high-quality wines of charm and distinction. So it was with this tasting. This is one of the strongest tastings that the panel has seen for some time. The majority of the wines were very good, or represented good value, with a handful being quite spectacular.

The new single vineyard release from Wynns (Childs) was outstanding. This could well be the best wine made at this historic winery in recent times, rivalling the 2010 John Riddoch. Equally impressive was the Diana Madeline by Cullen – a truly special wine. Wines like the Leeuwin Estate and Wynns V&A Lane are also worthy of mention.

At the value-end of the spectrum, the Woodlands Cabernet/Merlot, St Mary’s Carillon and Flametree are all worth of mention, while the Xanadu DJL and Mosswood Amys are knockouts.

Reviewed.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Childs – 2012 (18.8). A potential superstar here. Fine, savoury fruit is skilfully matched to sophisticated, supple winemaking. The fruit quality is outstanding, with black currant and hints of mint. The palate transition is a highlight, with the fruit lingering, before the tannins gradually take precedence. Will be outstanding in 10 to 15 years, or with a decent steak today. A serious wine. (RRP $90).

Cullen – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Diana Madeline – 2013 (18.7). Beautifully ripe fruit has been skilfully matched to supple winemaking inputs. The fruit sits in a framework of quality oak that adds structure and depth, without dominating. The palate is supple and savoury, with fine, though grippy tannins.

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon /Shiraz – V&A Lane – 2013 (18.5+). Darker in every way to the other wines here. The colour is opaque. The fruit on the nose is dense and powerful. The palate has gentle red fruits and a silky mouth-feel. Very long and persistent, however this is closed and shy, only hinting at potential. Opens in the glass to show great quality fruit. Delicious now, but will get better in time as, even after 5 days on the tasting bench, the fruit was still shining. (RRP $60).

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2011 (18.5). Whilst clearly from a cooler region, the precise, sweet fruit almost leaps from the glass. The palate has ripe fruit, though this is balanced by fine tannins and gentle, savoury oak, and the length is excellent. This Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot stands out for the way the supple fruit is given centre stage, deftly supported by the textural components. Drinking a treat now, but sure to age well for many years. Only medium bodied, but a great wine in the making. Cellaring recommended. (RRP $63).

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – Black Label – 2012 (18.5). From the outstanding 2012 vintage. Black currant and plum are present on both the nose and the palate. The fruit flavours linger for a very long time, slowly transitioning to supple, savoury tannins and oak. Souring plum acidity works a treat. Richer than the Margaret River wines here, though the acid sucks up the fruit, conferring a degree of restraint. A lovely wine (RRP $45, but often discounted closer to $30).

Woodlands – Cabernet Franc/Merlot – Special Reserve – Emily – 2012 (18.3). Unusual in that Cabernet Franc is the main variety here. The nose has chocolate and plum fruit notes. The palate is very dense and powerful, yet the wine retains elegance and poise. The tannins are silky and fine, but really build on the finish. This is all potential, and will reward the patient handsomely. A bigger style. (RRP $40).

Xanadu – Cabernet Sauvignon – DJL – 2012 (18). Lovely fruit here, but the fine structural components shut down the aromas initially. The palate has excellent balance, with red fruits and cedary oak. The texture, length and intrinsic power are noteworthy. Will actually age very well over the next 5 – 10 years if given the chance, but is delicious now.

Moss Wood – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot /Malbec – Amy’s – 2013 (18). A very fine wine that values restraint and elegance over overt power. Opens with mint and eucalypt over fresh berries. The fruit quality is excellent and has been carefully matched to fine, supple French oak. The length and persistence are admirable. Lovely now, or anytime over the next 10 years. (RRP $30).

Woodlands – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2013 (18). A textural treat here. Yes, the fruit is ripe and of high quality, but the mouth-feel is a highlight. Very long, but not overly tannic, this would be my pick of the tasting to drink now though it could happily take 5+ years in the cellar. (RRP $26).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merot – 2013 (17.9). Beautiful sweet fruit on the nose with hints of blackcurrant and cassis. The palate has fine, elegant fruit and a soft supple finish. The tannins are really fine, and there is decent length and mouth-feel. Drinks well now and offers a lot of wine for the price. (RRP $33).

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot /Cabernet Franc – Carillon – 2013 (18). Lovely, fruit forward style, with red berries, fresh herbs, menthol and spice. The palate is fresh, vibrant and delicious. Oak and tannins sit in the background, allowing the fruit to shine. Made to be approachable now, but also improve for some time in the bottle. This would be a joy to drink with a Sunday roast. (RRP $40).

2012 Shiraz – Benchmark Tasting @ Faber Vineyard

30^th June 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

There are a number of great comparative tastings held each year in Australia. For example: Cape Mentelle hosts Cabernet Sauvignon, Cullen has Chardonnay, Peel Estate is Shiraz and Frankland Estate explores Riesling. In each case, a specific vintage is tasted with renowned wines selected from around the globe.

The annual Benchmark Tasting at Faber Vineyard is an opportunity to try 12 (in this case 14) of Australia’s most highly rated Shiraz in a blind tasting.

Hosted by John and Jane Griffiths, the tasting differs from the others mentioned in one important way: all the wines are from Australia. This is an opportunity to put Faber’s Reserve Shiraz up against some of Australia’s best wines.

As a winemaker, it must be a nerve-racking experience to have your own wine in this type of event. Knowing that your wine deserves to be there, but at the same time, worrying about what people will think. However, there was no sign of nerves as John presided over proceedings.

To cap off a spectacular day, we were treated to a delicious home-cooked meal from Jane, which was served between the brackets of wines. This was all washed down with some of Faber’s finest wines.

I would suggest getting onto their mailing list now, so that you can be a part of this great event next year.

The Wines

In a tasting like this, there are no bad wines, just varying levels of greatness. The advantage of tasting these blind (and not knowing the line-up of wines ) is that the wines have to stand on their own, without the label to support it.

Bracket One was uniformly brilliant, with all wines worthy of a gold medal. Support from the audience was equally spread across the wines from Torbreck, Jamsheed and Standish. For me, The Standish was just a whisker ahead of the rest, with the Dalwhinnie a lovely cool climate counterpoint.

Bracket two was, if possible, even stronger than the 1^st, with all wines getting a gold medal on my scoring sheet. The two wines that garnered the most support from the room were the Faber and Henschke. For me, perhaps the Henschke was a whisper ahead, but the Faber stood out as the best drinking wine in the bracket.

Wendouree and Wild Duck Creek were both fantastic wines, but are made in a style that demands years in the cellar, with the Giacinda somewhere in-between.

The final bracket did not disappoint. There was one wine however, that had almost universal support as the favourite wine for the bracket – the MollyDooker. A spectacular wine that was great drinking. At 16% alcohol, no one in the room found this the slightest bit warm!

In this format of tasting, wines from cooler regions and those that are made expressly to age often struggle. I would be happy to recommend almost all of these wines. It is just a matter of choosing a style you prefer and going from there.

The two best drinking wines for the tasting were the Faber and the Mollydooker. Not surprisingly, they were quite similar in style.

Bracket One

Bleasdale – Shiraz – The Powder Monkey – 2012. The colour here was a touch lighter than some in this bracket. Beautiful, perfumed fruit on the nose, with an undercurrent of plum and dusty, cedary oak. The palate is alive and vibrant, though the taut fruit is initially restrained. With air, this really builds, the palate silky and near seamless, with souring acidity to close. Very long finish. (RRP $65)

Dalwhinnie – Shiraz – Moonambel – 2012. Quite closed, with sour cherry characters to the fore. Opens to show pretty fruit, licorice, spice and wonderful elegance. The fruit on the palate is refined and silky, with supple oak adding texture rather than overt flavour. Very long, the finish is near seamless. Very elegant . (RRP $60).

Torbreck – Shiraz – The Struie – 2012. Opens with almost tobacco like notes over dense fruit and earthy, aniseed aromas. With air, this gets really interesting, with plum and tar notes. The palate is a textural treat, with plum and cherry fruit over spice and minerals. With time in the glass, this really builds, showing lovely sweet fruit and almost Rhone-like characters. A complete wine. (RRP $55).

Jamsheed – Syrah – 2012. Super fragrant, with masses of lovely ripe fruit, giving way to menthol and eucalypt notes. On the palate, cooler climate fruit shines, with cherry, red and blueberries. Spicy oak and a degree of minerality round out the plate, but the tannins shut down the finish on the close. An excellent wine that will age well. (RRP $55).

Standish – Shiraz – The Standish– 2012. The colour here is almost purple. A powerful, opulent wine, with sweet fruit over tobacco, cedar, plum and spice. The palate is dense and textured, with plum, chocolate, red berries, spice and coffee. Texturing tannins and oak fill out the finish. (RRP $95).

Bracket Two

Wild Duck Creek – Shiraz – Springflat – 2012. Almost Cabernet-like, with blackcurrant fruit over menthol notes. The palate is refined, balanced and elegant, the fruit building with air. Almost delicate, the spice and minerality give way to superb textural components, with the drying tannins building on the close. A superb wine that will benefit from years in the cellar. (RRP $55).

Faber – Shiraz – Reserve – 2012. The colour is almost purple here, and is very dense. Lovely red fruits to the fore, with spicy oak notes adding interest. The palate is textured and dense, with rich fruit and supple spice notes. The fruit gets quite chocolaty, with vanillin oak adding depth. A crowd favourite, but ideally deserves years in the cellar to reach its peak. Great stuff. (RRP $70).

Henschke – Shiraz – Mount Edelstone – 2012. Menthol, graphite, spice, plum, redcurrant and wonderful savoury notes are part of the complex amalgam of aromas found in this wine. Whilst the palate is initially quite closed, the elegant fruit, balance and supple texture build with air. Beneath the gentle veneer, there is a core of powerful, yet silky fruit. A superb wine of great presence that will reward many years in the cellar. (RRP $140).

Wendouree – Shiraz – 2012. Perhaps the most closed of all the wines. There are lovely, almost delicate floral fruit notes on the nose, but these needed to be coaxed from the glass. There is undeniable power to the compelling fruit, with depth, structure and texture. The prodigious (though very fine) tannins and complex oak guarantee a very long life. Will be great. (RRP $50).

Giaconda – Shiraz – Warners Vineyard – 2012. A pretty colour here. There is undeniable power to the fruit, yet this also has floral red and black fruit characters. The palate has bright, supple fruit with savoury vanillin oak highlights. There are spicy notes and the texture is oh so fine. The finish is very long, with spice and a touch of toasty oak coming through. A little disjointed now, but will settle in the bottle. (RRP $85).

Bracket Three

Noon – Shiraz – Reserve – 2012. Quality fruit and oak a highlight here, though this is relatively closed and tight now. Plum and spice notes, with a hint of resin from the oak. The palate is quite extracted, with licorice and spice over chewy, textural notes. This gives way to pepper and herbs, with an almost saline tang. That said, the balance is excellent and there is great length! (RRP $105).

Hentley Farm – Shiraz – The Beast – 2012. The colour here is impenetrable. Fresh, bright fruit, with cherry and a touch of mocha. The palate is relatively tight and subdued, with the oak expertly matched to the fruit. The length and texture are a highlight, with souring acidity and savoury, drying tannins driving the finish. Needs time, but is a wine full of personality. (RRP $80).

Mollydooker – Shiraz – Carnival Of Love – 2012. Opens with plum, spice and licorice from the ripe fruit. A beautifully made wine that is textural and long, yet refined and balanced. The finish is virtually seamless. The palate is rich and viscous, yet remains balanced and precise. The fine tannins are silky and refined, adding to a fantastic mouth-feel. A complete wine that is an absolute joy to drink. Do not be put off by the numbers (16% alcohol and 4gm/L residual sugar), this provides immense pleasure. (RRP $85).

Spinifex – Shiraz – La Maline – 2012. After the opulence of the Mollydooker, this wine struggled a bit. A savoury wine that is almost Rhone-like in its structure. Plum, prune, tar and tobacco all present on the nose. The fruit is overlaid on a brine-like, almost iodine tang, with drying tannins to close. An impressive wine, albeit in a different style. (RRP $65).

1996 Cabernet Sauvignon

Vintage in Focus by Barry Weinman

27^th June 2015

I am in the fortunate position to be able to drink old wines regularly. Often, this is in the setting of dinner with friends, or a themed tasting. It is a rare treat however, to be able to drink a number of aged wines from the same vintage.

To make this tasting even more interesting, all wines were Bordeaux varietals or blends and the wines were equally divided between France and Australia. An added bonus was that 1996 was an excellent year on both sides of the globe. I could not find a bottle of Mosswood from this vintage, so substituted a bottle of the 1994 Reserve.

All wines came from the Wine and Food Society of Western Australia’s cellar. The Australian wines had been in the cellar since launch, whereas many of the French wines I purchased a few years ago when they had been shipped ex-cellar.

Opening the wines told a tale of two standards. The corks in the French wines were uniformly in great condition. Longer than the Australian’s, but also of perceptibly higher quality. The Australian wines’ corks started crumbling with a standard corkscrew, whereas the French wines’ corks came out easily without breaking.

Once again, I was very grateful to have a Durant corkscrew on hand to assist with cork removal. This remarkable device is a must for those regularly opening wines older than 15 years. Remarkably, there was no discernible cork taint in any of the wines. This was indeed a very special day!

Initially, I planned on serving the wines in matched pairs (Australia v France). On opening the wines, this plan changed as the overt power of the Australian wines would have overwhelmed the French wines.

The Wines

Perhaps the biggest surprise on the night was the Champagnes in Bracket One. Support for the three wines was equally divided across the group. The “standard” 2002 was the most accessible, making it the choice for those who value drinkability.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Sir Winston Churchill is a sublime wine that was the pick for the aficionados among us. Sitting in the middle and offering outstanding value was the Blanc de Blanc. A great drink!

The highlight of Bracket Two was the Roc de Cambes, coming from a fully mature vineyard that has similarities to St Emillon. This demonstrated just how good the wines from Cotes de Bourg (Cotes de Bordeaux) can be.

Bracket Three saw a step up in perceived quality, as all wines were of Grand Cru status. This was also reflected in the overall quality. The highlight was the Cantemerle, a still youthful wine of real class.

Bracket Four saw the first of the Australian wines. The change in style was immediately apparent, with the fruit more accessible. The wines retained balance and poise, but there was a degree of immediacy that, if anything, made the wines more accessible to the average drinker.

The Wynns displayed classic Coonawarra fruit and was a delight to drink. The Plantagenet was my pick. A wine that is in its prime, but one that will also last for years.

The final bracket consisted of three superstars. The Mosswood was the most complete drink, the 707 the most long-lived. All were brilliant wines in their own right, and equal to the best Cabernets anywhere in the world, albeit in a different style to the French. Ultimately, it was the Vasse Felix Heytesbury that was my pick for the night!

Bracket One

Pol Roger – Champagne – 2002. A rich and developed Champagne that is powerful and complex, with honeyed, aged notes. Textured and very long, this was preferred by several guests.

Pol Roger – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – 2002. Perfumed and floral, the taut chardonnay fruit characters are clearly expressed here. Refined and delicate, yet there is latent power and excellent length. A great wine that will age well for another few years at least.

Pol Roger – Champagne – Sir Winston Churchill – 2000. The term “Less is more” comes to mind here. Very fine and delicate, yet has tremendous presence in the mouth. Elegance is the key.

Bracket Two

Lilian Ladouys – Saint Estephe – 1996. Lovely fragrant nose, with subtle spice complementing the still-fresh fruit. The palate is fully mature, with decent depth and length and a well-structured finish. Good drinking.

Roc de Cambes – Cotes de Bourg – 1996. Made primarily from Merlot, the fantastic fruit here has an almost new-world richness. Cassis and spice on the nose. The silky mouthfeel and depth of fruit on the palate are noteworthy. Considered by many to be the best wine from the Cotes de Bourg, this was a standout.

Labegorce – Margeaux – 1996. The perfumed fruit is typical of Margeaux, but the palate was starting to dry out. Perhaps not the best bottle.

Bracket Three

Clos de L’Oratoire – St. Emillon – Grand Cru – 1996. Delicious sweet fruit that has obvious power. Very long and texture, this is drinking perfectly now.

Chateau Cantemerle – Haut Medoc – 5^th Growth – 1996. Sweet ripe fruit, with minty highlights. A powerful wine, with still firm tannins. The excellent length on the finish is a feature. A stand-out.

Grand Puy Ducasse – Pauliac – 5^th Growth – 1996. Obvious powerful fruit, with a touch of earthy/ funky notes adding to the appeal. Fine tannins fan out on a long finish.

Bracket Four

Wynns – Cabernet Sauvignon – “Black Label” – 1996. Cassis and menthol speaks of classic Coonawarra Cabernet. The palate is not overly dense, but this is a delightful drink.

Plantagenet – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1996. Plump, fresh fruit on the nose. The palate is bright, fresh, taut and full of life. The balance is a highlight and the finish is long and fine. Excellent now, but will hold.

Irvine – Grand Merlot – 1996. A big wine, full of plump ripe fruit. Loved by some, but this was a bit overdone for me. This was, perhaps not a typical bottle, as I have enjoyed excellent bottles of this vintage in the recent past.

Bracket Five

Vase Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Heytesbury – 1996. Intense, powerful fruit, with leather and spice over the superb fruit. The palate is remarkably youthful, with red fruit characters. A complete wine and quite spectacular!

Mosswood – Cabernet Sauvignon – Reserve – 1994. The most complete wine now, and an absolute pleasure to drink. The perfumed fruit retains power, but the palate is long, refined elegant and silky. A textural treat.

Penfolds – Cabernet Sauvignon – 707 – 1996. Tight and incredibly youthful, with powerful, yet restrained fruit. The palate is closed and tight, with chewy tannins that are remarkably fine. The line and length is a feature. The intense fruit builds and builds. The proverbial iron fist in a velvet glove, a great wine!

Xabregas Riesling – 2014

15^th June 2015

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

After flying below the radar for a number of years, Xabregas really made an impression with their 2010 Rieslings. This was followed up by the spectacular 2011s. These wines became my benchmark for Great Southern Riesling at the time.

According to Paul Hogan, son of founder Terry, growing conditions in 2012 and 2013 did not suit production of the top tier wines under the X label.

Fast forward to 2014, and here are a set of wines that take up where the 201 1s left off. The wines are precise, focused and fine, with varying degrees of residual sugar highlighting the pristine fruit.

From the near-dry standard release, to the “medium-dry” Spencer, these are wines of finesse and charm. All are age-worthy, though it is hard to imagine why you would not drink the Spencer now – it is absolutely delicious.

Fortunately, there are indicators on the back label to identify the level of residual sugar, so there will be no surprises.

Reviewed.

Xabregas – Riesling – 2014 (18). Muted pure fruit with a steely nose and gentle minerality. The palate is taut and fine, with gentle lime juice and very fine acid. There is just a touch of phenolic richness that adds depth, whilst the length is a standout. Great now, but will age brilliantly. (RRP $22).

Xabregas – Riesling – Artisan – 2014 (17.6). Pure lemon juice to start, with minerals and a hint of honey and spice. The use of old, neutral oak barrels for part of the wine, in addition to a proportion of lees contact makes for a richer, more generous style that is very approachable. That said, the finish is deceptively fine, with the acid kicking in to drive the dry finish. (RRP $31).

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Figtree – 2014 (18.6). Pretty, elegant and poised, yet with tremendous depth and power to the fruit. The palate is flooded with lime juice and lemon blossom characters. The finish is fine and tight, the steely acidity almost silky in the way it coats the palate. Hints of honeysuckle add to the floral fruit on the palate, complemented by a finish that is just off-dry (and all the better for it). This is my pick of the current releases (RRP $40).

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Spencer – 2014 (18.4). The minerality here is reminiscent of fine Chablis. There are floral lavender notes, lime juice and musk. The residual sugar here is the key, as it is the perfect counterpoint to the bracing acidity. A superb drink that is likely to partner Thai food very well. A youthful wine with latent power. (RRP $40).

Hickingbotham – Clarendon Vineyard

10^th June 2015

The Clarendon vineyard in McLaren Vale has contributed to some of Australia’s great wines, including the likes of Grange, as well as supplying Clarendon Hills winery. Planted in 1971, the plantings focus on Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon.

I was therefore surprised to hear that a few years ago, the vineyard was sold to the Jackson Family Estate. The company owns a number of wineries across the globe including some cult wineries in the Napa Valley. They also have Yangarra amongst their stable of wineries.

2012 was the first vintage under their control and Charlie Seppelt was appointed winemaker to oversee the operation. Charlie was given the daunting task of establishing a winery, complete with an oak regime to produce high quality wines from the outset.

Having just looked at the first releases, the early results look very promising. Though the wines could not be considered cheap, the pricing does, however, reflect the value of this special vineyard.

Reviewed

Hickingbotham – Shiraz – Brooks Road – 2012. Classic McLaren Vale Shiraz that shows bright, fresh and pretty berry fruit characters. The palate has dense black fruit, but none of the candied characters that are common in the Vale. The finish is silky and refined, with a core of minerality. The oak (30% new) has been soaked up by the fruit, so as not to appear disjointed. Opens up and gets quite chewy and textured, with licorice and spice to close.

Hickingbotham – Cabernet Sauvignon – Trueman – 2012. Cassis and mint on the nose, though the fruit is quite muted at this point. Closed, tight and refined, the palate has remarkably fine, though persistent tannins. Finishes with chalk-like minerality with graphite and olive characters. This is the opposite of what I would expect from a warmer climate Cabernet. According to the winemaker, the Hickingbotham vineyard produces some of Australia’s most tannic Cabernet.

Hickingbotham – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz – Peake – 2012. Surprisingly, this is more floral and fragrant than either of the straight wines. The palate has a savoury edge, with the quality fruit balanced by fine tannins. With air, the mineral-like texture really builds, the fruit coating the mouth and persisting for what seems like minutes. This needs years to reach its peak, but the wait will be worthwhile. 1200 bottles made.

Yangarra Estate

4^thJune 2015

Whilst the vineyards at Yangarra were originally planted in 1946, it was the purchase of the property by the Jackson family (Jackson Family Wines in the USA) that set the winery on its current trajectory.

Yangarra is situated in the Blewett Springs region of McLaren Vale, close to the border with the Adelaide Hills. This proximity to the Adelaide Hills, and the associated cooler climatic conditions help explain the finesse and restraint displayed in the wines.

Other factors influencing the wines include organic and biodynamic (certified in time for the 2012 vintage) farming as well as careful decisions in the winery. All fruit is sourced from their own vineyard.

The focus at Yangarra is on both red and white Rhone Valley varietals. The reds are made in large open fermenters, have carefully managed lees work and are basket pressed before being aged in a variety of oak casks, depending on the wine.

The wines were uniformly fine, with the straight Grenache being my pick. Apparently 2013 was a great year for Grenache. Fermentation for some of the fruit is in ceramic eggs. I am not sure what difference this makes as compared to stainless steel, but it looks funky!

The notes below are from a brief tasting that I did with Shelley Torresan (one of the winemakers) on a recent visit to Perth, which is why there are no points.

Reviewed

Yangarra – Grenache – 2013. From dry -grown bush vines, planted in 1946. The fruit expression (lovely red berries) on the nose is a highlight. Whilst quite restrained and closed, the palate has berry and plum characters, with a hint of savoury prune. The finish is defined by the dusty, drying, almost chewy tannins. Oak only plays a support role, and the lack of acid adjustment is testament to the quality of the fruit.

Yangarra – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – 2013. A 49/29/22 blend. This has a pretty nose, defined by floral fruit. The palate is softer and more approachable than either of the straight wines. There are refined tannins on a long, savoury finish. A silky wine that would suit early to mid-term drinking.

Yangarra – Shiraz – 2012. The minerality of the Shiraz is a stand-out feature. Shelley attributes this to the gravel in which the vines grow (the Grenache is grown in sandy soil). Restrained, the refined fruit and spice notes really build with air. The finish is silky and balanced, though this needs a few years to hit its straps.

Yangarra – Shiraz – Ironheart – 2010. With beautifully precise red fruits, this is an elegant, almost delicate Shiraz. This has structural/textural characters reminiscent of fine red Burgundy. Like the other wines here, the finish is long, fine and silky, with mouth-watering acidity and a chalky minerality that adds depth. A surprisingly elegant flagship wine with ethereal qualities!

Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon and d’Armailhac

June 2015

Baron Philippe de Rothschild is the parent organisation for several wineries, including one of the great wines of Bordeaux – Chateau Mouton Rothschild in the appellation of Paulliac. Promoted to 1^st growth in 1973, the wines have been consistently brilliant (vintage conditions permitting) for many decades.

The group also owns a pair of 5^th growths in Paulliac. Chateau Clerc Milon is considered the better of the two, made in a more muscular style, whilst Chateau d’Armailhac is the more feminine (and less expensive), though still age-worthy.

D’Armailhac is a neighbouring vineyard to Mouton. Whilst the ranking of the winery is not linked to specific holdings, the operations of the two are kept separate, so the best estate fruit is used to make this wine. Clerc Milon is about a kilometre north of Mouton.

Thanks to Daniel Arnoldi (the Australian importer of these wines) and John Jens (Lamonts – Cottesloe), Erwan Le Brozec from Baron Philippe de Rothschild was in Perth recently to showcase several vintages of each of these wines over lunch. With the title of Vice Commercial Director, Erwan is the Head of Export Operations for the organisation. (Some people have a hard life!).

Along with the three Grand Cru wineries, we also had a pair of wines from Le Petit Mouton, the second wine of Mouton Rothschild. Given the pricing, these wines appear to be more highly rated than the 5^th Growths.

To round the event off, we started and finished with wines from Chateau Coutet (Barsac)

In regards to the vintages, Daniel went to great trouble to select a variety of vintages going back to 1990, including the great vintages of 2000, 2005 and 2009.

Amazingly, all of the wines are available for sale, albeit in small quantities. While the prices are not cheap, the wines have come straight from the chateau in perfect condition. The prices quoted were the prices offered by Lamont’s on the day, but give you a ballpark idea of costs.

And the verdict? The wines were uniformly outstanding, accurately expressing the vintage conditions and the vineyard characters. The Clerc Milon in particular, impressed for the sheer quality of the wines. That said, the 2005 Mouton is one of the greatest wines that I have had the privilege to taste.

N.B. The 2014 indent is now being offered by select retailers. This looks like being another excellent year and prices are much reduced compared to other recent years. For example, one retailer has Chateau Margaux for $600 and Lafite for $750.

Admittedly, you will not get the wines for 2 -3 years, and it will be another 10+ years before they are ready to drink.

The Wines

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot – Paulliac – 2009. What a great way to start. Whilst the 2009 remained relatively closed and tight, the feminine, almost floral fruit was a highlight. The palate was structured and firm, but in no way austere. The fine tannins, supple oak and well-judged acidity come together on the finish, providing the backbone for a long life. Considered by some (e.g. Robert Parker) to be the best d’Armailhac ever. ($138).

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot – Paulliac – 2005. More overt power to the fruit here, but still with the trademark elegance and balance. The more muscular palate has fine, dusty (though still) firm tannins. A wine with excellent presence that would benefit from another 5+ years to open up. ($195).

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2000. Seductive, rich, generous and complex, yet still with the trademark feminine fruit. On the palate, the fruit is quite delicate and the structure is elegant and refined. The finish is defined by the way the fine, silky tannins are integrated back into the fruit in a near seamless close. A lovely wine now, but will hold. ($232).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot/Carmenere – Paulliac – 2009. The fruit on the nose is quite restrained, though the potential is clearly evident. The palate is where the quality is expressed. The dense and powerful fruit is the main focus initially, with the firm structure becoming evident on the close. The fine tannins and oak (40% new) are perceptible, but not intrusive. The finish is silky and remarkably supple, with seamless palate transition. With air, the fruit characters become more evident. A superb wine that needs time to show its best. ($171).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot/Carmenere – Paulliac – 2000. Given the age, the fruit is surprisingly subdued initially. With air, this starts to shine, with delicate berry notes and hints of menthol and leathery complexity. Whilst the beautiful fruit became apparent in the glass, this is a wine that still needs a few years to reach its drinking window. Classic Bordeaux for the aficionados, but one that may be lost on the average drinker. ($255).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Paulliac – 1996. This has a beautiful nose that is developed, rich and complex. The palate is mature, yet full of life. The mouthfeel is a highlight leading to a long, supple finish. An enchanting wine that is drinking perfectly. ($198).

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc– Paulliac – 2009. Very tight and closed initially. This is a structured, powerful wine, though it retains a remarkable degree of elegance. The finish is supple, though the tannins and oak (100% new) prevent the fruit from opening up. A profound, masculine wine that needs years. ($495).

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc– Paulliac – 2005. This is a very serious wine with great power and structure. There are the first signs of development (mocha/coffee notes), but the fruit is still youthful and full of vitality. The fruit density is a real step-up, yet the tannins remain very fine and the balance is exemplary. With air the fruit opens and builds, while the oak (75% new) fades into the background. A powerhouse! ($717).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2007. Given the vintage, this is a great effort. The nose is quite lovely, with a remarkable purity to the pretty fruit. Pristine red fruits abound on the palate, with berries and spice over fine textured oak. The finish is still closed, with the lighter fruit weight well matched to the structural components. Very strict fruit selection, combined with careful handling in the vineyard has produced a wine of great charm that will provide earlier drinking pleasure. ($795).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2005. The nose here is somewhat muted at first. The palate however, is nothing short of spectacular! Refined and tight, this is full of nervous energy. Power, intensity, depth and great length, this has it all. The finish is defined by a minerality that combines with the amazing tannins and oak leading to a seamless close. It is almost as if you can taste the soil in which the vines are grown. It is a privilege to have tasted this wine. ($1729).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 1990. Whilst the power is still evident, this has evolved into a seductive and beautiful wine. Aromas of tobacco, spice and gentle herbal notes complement the fruit which still retains great purity. In the mouth, the fruit is represented by menthol and soft leathery tones, with the fruit weight building on the palate. Whilst this has developed and is drinking beautifully, it is still a powerhouse, with bright acidity combining with remarkably fine tannins to add life and vitality to the finish. A wine of great length that is a joy to drink today! ($1196).

Chardonnay – New Release – May 2015

My love affair with Western Australian Chardonnay shows no sign of ending any time soon. Whether the fruit comes from Margaret River, Porongurup, Denmark or Mount Barker does not seem to impact on the quality. In fact, some, like Howard Park, blend fruit from several of these areas.

Interestingly, despite the climatic differences between these districts, this does not seem to directly translate into the wine style produced. Picking time and winemakers’ inputs also play a big role, along with clonal selection for the vineyards.

To keep the locals honest, I put a bottle of the Coldstream Hills Chardonnay into the tasting (Yarra Valley). This is a cracking wine and, at $25 on special from Vintage Cellars, represents very good value.

It was the wines of Howard Park and Singlefile that flew the flag admirably for the locals. This is the first time that I have seen both wineries’ new flagships

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Allingham – 2013 (18.5+). Cashew nut, lemon zest, grapefruit and spice, with complexity and structure from the fine-grained high quality oak. Fine acidity adds to the mouth-feel. The underlying power of the wine becomes apparent with air. This is a lovely, refined wine, with great depth of fruit and supple texture. A superb drink now or in 5+ years. (RRP $89).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2014 (18/18.5). Complex, though subtle worked characters here. Minerals/curry leaf, partial malo, lees contact and quality oak all add to the package. The flavour profile matches the nose, with stonefruit, pineapple and citrus notes. Long and quite restrained, with nutty characters and apricot kernel astringency to close. An excellent wine that will be even better in 5 years. (RRP $50).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – The Vivienne – 2012 (18/18.5). A leaner, more restrained style that appears somewhat immature at this stage. Full of potential, the taut grapefruit and melon notes are the main flavours now. With air, the texture and lovely mouth-feel really shine, aided by deftly handled oak leading on to a very long, drying palate. Give it 5 years to see it at its best. (RRP $80).

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2014 (18.3). Restrained and fine, though the high quality fruit and winemaking is evident. Pineapple like acidity carries the finish. Modern and lively, this is another wine that needs a few years to come into its own. That said, the balance and structure are exemplary. A complex, mouth-watering wine that needs time. (RRP $54).

Coldstream Hills – Chardonnay – 2013 (18). Youthful, almost zesty fruit gives way to complex fruit characters. The high quality oak adds depth and texture, yet is in no-way overt. Long and taut, this has excellent presence and mouth-feel, with drying acidity to close. A fine wine that will be best in 2 – 3 years, or with food now.

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2014 (18 – 18.5). This is a richly textured wine with great depth of fruit. Opens with lovely pineapple and stonefruit characters. The palate is very long, with savoury complexity and minerals becoming apparent on the finish. This is a very powerful wine that will be at its best in 3 – 5 years. (RRP $73).

Reviewed by Barry Weinman