Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Forester Estate – February 2015

Reviewed: 16th February 2015

Forester is owned by the McKay family and was established in 2002 following the sale of the family’s previous winery – Abbey Vale. It is situated in the northern part of the Margaret River region of Western Australia.

What made the wines reviewed here stand out in blind tastings was that they offered such good drinking. These are made in a middle of the road/mainstream style that highlights the quality fruit and confers early drinkability.

The wines will also age well in the short to medium term.

Reviewed

Forester Estate – Chardonnay – 2013 (18 – 18.5). (RRP $37). With youthful fresh fruit and acidity, this is a wine of real potential. Lemon curd, nectarine and fine grained French oak all feature. Excellent fruit, in a minimalist style, with a textured, almost chewy finish. Great now, but will be even better with a year or two in the bottle.

Forester Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18 – 18.5). (RRP $37). Ribena, mint and eucalypt (menthol) fruit on the nose. The fleshy blackcurrant fruit on the palate is complemented by fine tannins and supple oak. This is only medium bodied, allowing the fruit to shine. A lovely drink now or in 10 years.

 

 

 

Higher Plane – February 2015

Reviewed: 10th February 2015

Higher Plane was established in 1996 by Cathie and Craig Smith, with a focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The vineyard is close planted (4000 vines per hectare).

In 2006, the winery and vineyards were purchased by Juniper Estate (established/owned by the Hill Family) and Mark Messenger assumed responsibility for wine making. In conjunction with Ianto Ward, who took over management of the vineyards in 2008, the wines have never looked better!

 

Higher Plane – Sauvignon Blanc – South By Southwest – 2014 (17). A decent wine that sits in the middle of the road, with gentle tropical fruit being the primary focus. A crowd pleasing style. (RRP $22).

Higher Plane – Sauvignon Blanc – Barrel Fermented – 2014 (17.5). This is a savoury, food friendly wine that has grassy notes with a touch of almond and stone fruit. The palate has a touch of viscosity and crisp, lemony acidity. The lees contact and barrel ferment characters add a lovely textural component and there is excellent length. Great value (RRP $25).

Higher Plane – Chardonnay – 2012 (18.5). Opens with tropical/pineapple fruit, leading on to stone fruit and melon aromas. The palate is long, fine and silky, with cashew nut and spice highlights. The texture and balance are a highlight. With high-quality fruit and oak, handled sympathetically in the winery, this is a complete wine and a lovely drink. (RRP $40).

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – South By Southwest – 2011 (18). I like the way the high quality fruit and earthy notes combine into a complex, savoury package. There are hints of mocha, and the cedar-like oak complements the fruit, without dominating. The structure is a highlight, with chewy tannins to close. Bargain. (RRP $22).

Higher Plane – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2010 (18.5+). This is a very fine wine. The fruit is perfectly ripe, yet subtle and shy. The structure is fine and savoury, with silky oak and fine tannins cloaking the fruit at present. Excellent length and persistence.Patience is required though, as this requires several years for the structure to unwind and for the fruit to open up. Sophisticated and polished. (RRP $50).

Champagne – January 2015

Reviewed: 31st January 2015

Drinking Champagne is about much more than just what is in the glass. The history of the region, the reputation of the producers and the house style (recipe) all add to the enjoyment. The mystique associated with the experience is key to what makes Champagne so special.

Tasting Champagne blind is always an illuminating exercise. Without all of the external cues and biases, the intrinsic quality of the wine is allowed to shine.

As has been the way in several recent tastings, it was the non-vintage (NV) Champagne from Moet that threw up one of the biggest surprised. This is a wine that is produced in massive volumes (21 million bottles per year), with grapes sourced from many growers. Yet the quality and consistency in recent years has been exemplary. That it is often discounted to around $50 is remarkable in itself.

Overall though, the consistency and sheer quality of the wines of Veuve Cliquot and Pol Roger were the stand outs.

As to Champagnes made with a high level of residual sugar, I will leave this for teenagers to review.

Reviewed

Pol Roger – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – 2002 (18.8). This is a rich wine, with very powerful fruit. The palate is so complex, intense and long. The palate builds and evolves in the glass, with autolysis notes, creamy texture, green apple acidity and a degree of richness that comes from bottle age. Razor-like acidity adds life to this tremendous wine!

Veuve Cliquot – Champagne – 2004 (18.6+). Complex, developed, rich and broad, but not coarse. The palate is textured, long, supple, round and complete, with marvellous mouth-feel and balance. A totally delicious wine!

Veuve Cliquot – Champagne – NV (18.5). A racy, thrilling wine that is very youthful. The acid is fresh, reminiscent of granny smith apples. That said, there is a degree of complexity and the balance is excellent. A lovely aperitif style that has excellent mouth-feel and texture. The power really builds in the mouth. Superb!

Ruinart – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – NV (18.5). Elegant, yet with power and intensity. Initially, this is a little reserved on the palate, but it has latent power. Opens to show lemon, peach, nectarine and grapefruit, with a hint of minerality. Great stuff!

Veuve Cliquot – Champagne– Rose – NV (18.5). Amber-stained colour. The red fruit notes are more obvious on the nose. Rich, textured, long and powerful, yet fine, refined and elegant. A most attractive wine that ticks all the boxes. The colour is achieved by the addition of 12% Pinot Noir prior to bottling.

Billicart Salmon – Champagne – Sous Bois – NV. (18.5). Very fine mousse. This is a beautiful, almost ethereal wine that is delicate and refined, yet has underlying depth. The length and mouth-feel are features. An extraordinarily fine wine of real class. (Sous Bois refers to the fact that this wine was aged in oak).

Pol Roger – Champagne – NV (18.1). This is a lovely wine! Taut, lean, elegant and refined, this is very long and fine. Deceptively approachable, but there is real depth to the fruit. Creamy and textured, this wine needs no accompaniment.

Moet & Chandon – Champagne – NV. (18). Delicate and refined nose, with floral fruit notes. The palate is bright and fresh, the acidity the perfect foil for the red fruit richness. Excellent length, mid-palate persistence and a sensible dosage make this an excellent aperitif. The lemony acid provides focus.

Egly Ouriet – Pinot Noir/Chardonnay – Grand Cru – Brut Tradition – NV. (18). Darker colour hinting at amber. The rich, pinot-dominant fruit leaps from the glass with this wine (strawberry and honeysuckle). The creamy (lees influenced) texture combined with bread dough and a degree of bottle aged richness suggests a serious wine that is more suited to light food than as a summer afternoon drink. (Low dosage, 2008 base stock, 30% Chardonnay).

D’Sousa – Champagne – Merveille – NV (18). Balance is the key here on both the nose and palate. This is a complete wine that has a degree of fruit richness, yet has a refined, elegant finish. Quite complex, with hints of autolysis and toast. The softer middle palate is the result of the wine spending two years on lees and undergoing 100% malo-lactic fermentation. (Biodynamic).

 

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release – January 2014

Reviewed: 26th January 2014

The big surprise here was from Grace Farm. This is not a winery that I am familiar with, but the wine is excellent. The vineyards are situated in Wilyabrub, and the vines planted in 2006.

The bargain of the tasting was The Bard by Hollick. This is a serious wine that is likely to be available for under $20. Definitely one to try.

The highlight however was the Thomas Hardy. A superb wine that is worthy of the icon tag!

Reviewed

Hardys – Cabernet Sauvignon – Thomas Hardy – 2012 (18.7). Magnificent nose! Pristine, ripe fruit that is balanced and delicious. The palate is remarkable for the mouth-feel and texture. The quality red fruits burst onto the tongue, before being covered in a blanket of extraordinarily fine tannins. The oak adds depth without being overt. Deserves its iconic reputation (RRP $130).

Flametree – Cabernet Sauvignon – SRS – 2012 (18 – 18.5). A refined, elegant wine that, whilst supple and soft, has enough fruit to make an impact. The tannins are remarkably fine, though plentiful enough to keep the high quality fruit subdued at the moment. A few years will make all the difference. (RRP $55).

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012. (18.3). The nose is closed and restrained at first. The palate however shows lovely ripe, though delicate fruit that gives way to ever so fine and powdery tannins. Impressive length and structure. An elegant wine of real class that will age gracefully for many years. Whilst there is latent power to the fruit, the balance here is the key.

Grace Farm – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18). Very dense, deep fruit here, yet it appears restrained and shy at first. In the mouth, it is the structure that impresses. Fine, elegant and balanced, this is a textural feast. Yet underneath, there is excellent fruit lurking, just waiting for an opportunity to develop. A long and persistent finish rounds out the package. (RRP $30).

Hollick – Cabernet Sauvignon – The Bard – 2013 (18). This wine stands out for its sweet, ripe, approachable fruit. There are bountiful red fruits and memories of mint jelly. The palate is firm, though fine, with excellent length. A youthful joy now, but will benefit from 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $22).

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude Vineyards – 2010 (17.5+). Refined and elegant, though there is enough depth to the fruit to make this very appealing now. It is on the palate that the wine shines, the length and persistence are admirable. The tannins are slightly chalky, retarding the fruit somewhat, but a few years cellaring or an hour in a decanter is all that is needed to allow this to transform. (RRP $30).

Arivina – Merlot – 2012 (17.5). Lifted blackcurrant fruit with hints of cassis and spice. The palate is savoury and a touch sappy, with the lively red fruits dancing across the mid palate. Being only medium weight, this makes for excellent short-term drinking.

Pinot Noir – New Release – January 2015

Reviewed: 11th January 2015

Pinot Noir is the Holy Grail for many winemakers and consumers alike. Site selection is critical, as is the use of the best varietal clones in the vineyard.

Over the last decade, the overall quality of Australian (and New Zealand) Pinot Noirs has really lifted, with great efforts being taken to plant vineyards in the right (cooler) locations, as well as careful clonal selection to ensure that the fruit produced is of suitable quality. There has also been a refinement in the way the fruit is handled in the winery.

All of these factors, when added together, have resulted in a plethora of excellent (if not overly cheap) wines from the likes of the Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Tasmania and Central Otago.

The wines reviewed below epitomize the results of this quest for excellence. From the good value Madfish to the truly outstanding wine from Coldstream Hills, all wines are worth exploring. From a value perspective, the Shaw & Smith straddles the middle ground between quality and price. Not cheap, but very good.

Reviewed

Coldstream Hills – Pinot Noir – Reserve – 2013 (18.7+). Starts off quite closed in a more masculine style. There is no doubting the quality of the fruit here, but this is shrouded in a cloak of structure. That said, the tannins are very fine. Given air, the fruit builds and there is a herbal edge to add life and interest. Needs years to show its best, but will handsomely reward those who can cellar it. (RRP $85).

Hardys – Pinot Noir – Eileen Hardy – 2013 (18.3). A lighter style that, whilst relatively austere and one-dimensional now, has excellent fruit quality and superb wine-making. The way this builds in the mouth with air is a treat, developing complex, cool climate varietal characters. The dense fruit, earthy notes, excellent mouth-feel and great length make for a classic new-world Pinot. Just give it plenty of air if you are going to drink it now (RRP $95).

Shaw & Smith – Pinot Noir – 2013 (18+). Succulent sweet fruit, yet there is a savoury element, with earthy undertones. Opens with pretty, strawberry-like fruit on the palate, followed by souring, cherry/plum-like acidity. There is excellent length and persistence on the finish. This is a very impressive wine that whilst a joy straight out of the bottle, will age very well in the short-medium term. (RRP $45).

Madfish – Pinot Noir – 2010 (17). A sappy, savoury expression of Pinot. Lighter fruit weight, but with enough depth to elevate it above the ordinary. Smart wine, with the fruit building on the finish. A decent effort for a relatively cheap Pinot. (RRP $18).

Larry Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – December 2014

Reviewed: 1st January 2015

I must admit to getting a little confused by the wines released by Larry Cherubino. There is no question about quality; it is the vast array of wines that he produces that is hard to keep up with.

In this tasting, we had three wines under the flagship “Cherubino” label: Frankland River, Margaret River and Great Southern. Whilst the bottle shape changes from one to the next, the label does not. Interestingly the price also varies. At $49, the Great Southern is the cheapest whilst the Frankland River ($110) is the most expensive.

The Frankland River is truly a great wine, and must rank amongst the best Cabernets made in Western Australia in the last few years. Given the high cost of this wine, I was even more excited by a couple of the cheaper labels in the range. Both the Ad Hoc ($21) and the Pedestal ($25) offer outstanding value.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Frankland River – 2012 (19). This brilliant wine opens with menthol and an almost licorice-like savoury twist to the nose. The blackcurrant fruit is initially subdued, but really builds with air. The palate is amazing for both the density of fruit and the elegance and balance. Powerful and complex, yet supple and lithe, the finish is long and fine. The fresh acidity and ever-so-fine tannins caress the tongue. Very long and persistent, this wine will continue to improve for many years. (RRP $110).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2012 (18+). (RRP $75). More savoury fruit notes here compared to the Frankland River. The palate is balanced and supple, the ripe fruit nicely complemented by texturing oak. There is excellent length and persistence, and the fruit builds with air. A savoury, textured wine of some charm.

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon – Great Southern – 2012 (18). Souring fruit and acidity are a key part of this wine, ensuring that this will be an excellent pairing with food. The fruit is relatively subdued, but builds with air, showing raspberry and blueberry characters. The ripe tannins are a little firm at present, so another 5 years please. (RRP $49).

Pedestal – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2012 (18). Attractive fruit that initially appears quite generous. Then the very fine tannins and oak kick in on the mid-palate, closing down the fruit and carrying through to the finish. Really long, this will improve for 5 – 10 years in the cellar. (RRP $25).

Cherubino – Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec – Ad Hoc – Avant Gardening – 2013 (18). Dense fruit here. There are fresh red and blackcurrant notes, with a souring cherry lift. The palate is fine and elegant, with that souring fruit keeping everything fresh and lively. There is also a degree of generosity to the supple fruit that gives this immediate appeal. A lovely wine and great value. (RRP $21).

Chardonnay New Release – December 2014

Reviewed: December 22nd 2014

When it comes to white wines, Riesling is the undisputed value king. These are high quality wines that are very age-worthy, especially under screw caps. That said, for me at least, Chardonnay has the potential to be the greatest of all white wines.

The challenge is that there are many more variables involved, so winemaking takes on much greater significance. The use of oak, barrel fermentation, lees stirring and cold fermentation for example can all have a significant impact on the final product.

These variations result in a wide variety of styles being available. From the taut and restrained to the rich and creamy, as well as all variations in-between.

In this tasting, of the wines reviewed, the Drumborg from Seppelt sits at the leaner end of the spectrum. A superb wine, but one that needs a few years to start uncoiling. The Eileen Hardy and the Grace Farm happily occupy the middle ground, balancing fine, elegant fruit with enough richness to make them a great drink today.

At $30, the Grace Farm in particular stands out as being excellent value.

Reviewed

Hardys – Chardonnay – Eileen Hardy – 2013 (18.5). Complex, powerful nose with peach, melon and even a hint of exotic tropical fruits. The palate is seamless and, though the ripe fruit makes a presence, it shows a remarkable degree of restraint. A very fine wine that is remarkably approachable now. (RRP $95).

Seppelt – Chardonnay – Drumborg Vineyard – 2013 (18 – 18.5+). Closed and tight this wine only hints at potential on the nose. The palate opens with grapefruit characters that lead onto tingling acidity. The finish however is quite remarkable, being long and fine, and building real presence on the palate. A smart wine that needs a year or two in the cellar to start opening up, but will last for years to come. (RRP $40).

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2013 (18.3). Powerful, but a little awkward right now. Opens with grapefruit, melon and peach notes. The high quality fruit and oak have been well matched, with the acid and mineral characters on the finish providing drive. Needs a few years to settle, but will be a star (and will probably garner even higher scores). Not cheap. (RRP $280).

Grace Farm – Chardonnay – 2013 (18). This wine has both a lovely nose and palate, showing nectarine, white peach and grapefruit characters. Seamless, sophisticated, polished and very long, the mouth-feel is a highlight courtesy of the creamy lees and oak work, combined with precise acid balance. The length and persistence are excellent. A superior effort. (RRP $30).

New Release – December 2014

Reviewed: 20th December 2014

This was my first opportunity to try the wines of Tolpuddle. The Tolpuddle vineyard in Tasmania has been supplying fruit to some of Australia’s best chardonnays and pinots for a number of years. A recent change in ownership however (Shaw & Smith) has seen some wine made under their own label.

Reviewed

Louis Latour – Chardonnay – Macon – Villages – Chamaroy – 2012 (16.8). Light and fresh nose, but with subtle minerality sitting under the fruit. Quite viscous and with good length and mouth feel, but not overly deep. A simple, entry level White Burgundy, but an enjoyable drink. (RRP $20).

Felton Road – Chardonnay – Bannockburn – 2013 (17.9). Lovely nose to this wine with melon and spice over creamy, textural notes. The palate is long and supple, with the restrained oak and gentle lees work just keeping the fruit in check at present. Fine and elegant, this will evolve over the next 5 years. (RRP $50).

Tolpuddle – Chardonnay -2013 (17.8). Muted fruit on the nose (grapefruit and pineapple). The palate shows a leaner, racy style that lacks a bit of generosity now in part due to the very crisp acidity. That said, the potential is obvious. A tightly wound wine that is sure to score higher points once it has time to settle down (RRP $70).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2013 (18.5+). Aromas of minerals and spice over complex fruit and winemaking notes. The palate is superb, with curry leaf minerality over peach, nectarine, grapefruit and struck match notes. The length and persistence are outstanding, with a near seamless palate transition. Almost chewy, the nutty, complex fruit really builds on the finish. (RRP $60).

Pinot Noir

Felton Road – Pinot Noir – Bannockburn – 2013 (18.5). (RRP $79). Lovely fruit on the nose, with cherry, strawberry, savoury plum and plenty of spice. The palate has tar, clove and aniseed hints to close. This is concentrated and powerful, though it has not quite come together as yet. Another year will see the high quality fruit fill out.

Tolpuddle – Pinot Noir – 2013 (18.3). Richer and rounder fruit, though the acidity on the finish is initially confronting. With air, the fragrant fruit really builds and this settles down and evolves into a dense, powerful wine of significant charm. Needs a year or two to start drinking well, but 5 – 10 years may be even better. (RRP $85).

Piedmont – December 2014

Reviewed: 14th December 2014

I recently attended a tasting hosted by Maurizio Ugge from Arquilla, an importer of a large variety of Italian wines. The focus was specifically on the wines of Piedmont and included wines from several highly regarded producers.

Whilst there were decent Dolcettos and Barberas on show, it was the wines made from Nebbiolo from the regions of Barbaresco and Barolo that were the main feature.

Due to the sheer number of wines and the limited time available, my notes are somewhat brief and represent my first impressions. Also, as this was not a masked tasting, my points are best used as a rough guide only.

If only they were a bit cheaper….

Reviewed

Elio Altare – Barbera d’Alba – 2012 (17.2). A lovely blend of ripe, succulent fruit and savoury, earthy, almost tar-like complexity. The palate is long and has surprising depth/density. An excellent wine.

Domenico Clerico – Barbera d’Alba – 2011 (17+). Opens with sweet ripe fruit, but the tannins really kick in on the mid-palate and continue to the close. The fruit is actually quite long and persistent and should become more expressive with a year or two in bottle. If you like a big red, this is a really interesting alternative and worth a look.

Pio Cesare – Barbera d’Alba – Fides – 2011 (17). A lovely blend of sweet fruit and savoury highlights on the nose. The palate is a standout. There is real depth to the high-quality fruit. The mouth-feel and texture are superb. A very good wine that has been expensively made (the oak is more apparent here, but not out of balance).

Domenico Clerico – Nebbiolo – Lange – Capisme-E – 2012 (17). I like this wine for its approachability. Savoury, drying and fine, yet with depth and subtle power sitting underneath. Not overly long or complex, but an excellent drink.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Langhe – Il Nebbio – 2011 (17.3). Light and fresh, with textbook tannins. The fruit here gets quite floral and pretty. An excellent pinot alternative.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – 2009 (18). A real step up in terms of both fruit depth, as well as texture, mouth-feel and length. I really like the finish here which is feminine and seductive, yet focussed and fine. Savoury, textured and chewy tannins fit the bill. The fruit really builds and gets quite serious to close. Now, but also in 10+ years

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – 2010 (18). This is tighter and less giving than the 2009. Savoury, structured, long and tight, the tannins get all chewy on the close. Needs time, but will reward.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Bricco Di Tresio – Vendemmia – 2009 (18). Savoury, structured and tight, yet there is a real prettiness in the fruit. The palate is only mid-weight, with very fine tannins and silky oak. The finish is fine and long, the super-fine tannins making this an accessible drink now, but also ensuring longevity.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Bricco Di tresio – Vendemmia – 2010 (18+). Mirrors the straight Barbaresco but this is just so much finer. Again the oak and tannins are silky and fine, caressing the palate, yet allowing the fruit to sing. The mouth-feel is a highlight, though this is structured and tight. Will age well.

Marchesi Di Gresy – Nebbiolo – Barbaresco – Martinenga -2010 (18.4). This is amazingly feminine, silky and fine! For a variety known for its tannins and power, this is a revelation. That said, the fruit is superb, yet it is wrapped in a cloak of silk gauze that holds it in check, allowing glimpses of potential to show through. Superb!

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Ornato – 2009 (18.4). This is clearly different to the wines from Barbaresco. More overt power to the fruit and very fine tannins that slowly build to the point that they close down the wine on the finish. Powerful and impressive, yet still balanced and possessing great length. A wine that can be drunk now with pleasure, but will certainly benefit from 10 – 15 years in the cellar. From the Seralunga sub-district.

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Ornato – 2010 (18.6). More structure and power, yet this is less accessible than the 2009. Amazing fruit, yet the tight, chewy structure shuts down the palate. Needs 10 years, but would be better with 20. Super stuff!

Pio Cesare – Nebbiolo – Barolo – 2010 (18.3). Closed, dense and structured. Classic Barolo, with the chewy tannins preventing the fruit from showing its best now. Not quite as dense as the Ornato, but will be ready sooner. A complex, multifaceted wine.

Domenico Clerico – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Ciabot Mentin – 2010 (18.8). Whilst this is still a savoury wine, the intensity and concentration of the fruit here is amazing. The pristine fruit tends towards the classic rose petal and tar characters. The tannins are prodigious, yet the fruit soaks them up, finishing with souring cherry-like acidity. A spectacular wine!

Domenico Clerico – Nebbiolo – Barolo – Pajana – 2010 (18.5). Really savoury, with tar and earthy notes on the nose. The fruit on the palate is, again, outstanding. The mouth-feel and structure spot on. The fruit is not as dense as the Ciabot Mentin, but this makes it so much more approachable.

Riesling Master Class – December 2014

Reviewed: 10th December 2014

When it comes to great Australian Rieslings, the Clare Valley and Eden Valley regions of South Australia are the spiritual homes. Grossett’s Polish Hill Riesling is considered one of Australia’s great wines and there have been many great wines have been released under the Leo Buring label.

If one wine has to be singled out, then the Leo Buring Leonay would be (for me at least) the most important of all Australian white wines. With a pedigree that spans many decades, these are legendary wines with a tremendous ability to age.

Of late though, the wines from the Great Southern in Western Australia have also been impressive. Many wines are released under the Great Southern moniker, though there are a number of subdistricts in the region. It is the wines from Porongurup and Frankland River that attract the most attention however.

In this tasting, we were lucky enough to taste a variety of excellent wines. The “standard” Leo Burings are excellent wines and represent great value, while the Leonay is a classic wine. It was, however, the wines from the Porongurup region that garnered the most attention. Brilliant wines.

When it comes Australian Riesling, it is clear to me that the Great Southern rivals the Clare and Eden Valley (and select Victorian sites like Drumborg) for sheer quality. One advantage that South Australia has though, is the ability to produce great wines at all price points.

So which is better? Both, but it is clear that the wines from the subdistricts of Polish Hill and Porongurup offer something that is just a little bit special.

Reviewed

Cherubino – Riesling – Porongorup – 2014 (18.6). Delicate and fine, with hints of lemon. Restrained and taut, the palate is like a tightly coiled spring. The power is there, yet the wine is tight and compact now. This needs time to open up, but will be a joy with oysters now. Just a touch of residual sugar adds perfectly to the balance. (RRP $35).

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2014 (18.5). Smells like the Great Southern, but a touch more restrained. There are hints of lanolin, lantana and floral aromas. On the palate the citrus fruit bursts from the wine, leading on to minerals and slate-like characters. The finish is remarkable for the way the acid seamlessly integrates into the fruit, yet leaves a drying texture in the mouth. Very fine and long, this will be a star. (RRP $34).

Leo Buring – Riesling – Leonay DWQ18 – 2013 (18.5). Much more approachable than a lot of wines here, yet the fruit is spectacular. Fine citrus notes over floral characters and a slate-like minerality. The finish is very long and fine. A superstar and one that could be drunk anytime over the next 20 years. From Watervale.

Leo Buring – Riesling – Eden Valley – 2013 (18+). (RRP $20). Silky, tight, long and fine, there is lemony fruit on the nose and the wine slowly builds in the mouth, lingering long after swallowing. With lovely mouth-feel, there is talc like texture and depth to close. A great wine that, again, needs years to perform at its best.

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongurup – 2014 (18.3). The balance here is the key. Not as overtly concentrated as the Cherubino or Howard Park, but excellent drinking and an interesting alternative to a SSB. At the core of this wine there is pretty fruit with minerals and fine acid. Builds with air, so sure to age. (RRP $25).

Cherubino – Riesling – Great Southern – 2013 (18). Complex, minerals and spice, over lovely floral and citrus fruit notes. There is firm acidity, but the wine is very well balanced. There is a touch more phenolics to this wine, adding to its immediate appeal. Will age well. (RRP $35).

Howard Park – Riesling – Mt Barker – 2014 (17.9). (RRP $33). Very fine and restrained on the nose. The palate is tight, yet the quality of the fruit is spectacular and refined. Great length and mouth-feel, the acid and phenolics add to the balance.

Leo Buring –Riesling – Clare Valley – 2014 (17.5 – 18). (RRP $20). Lacks the sheer depth and balance of the best here, but that is underselling the quality of this wine. There is decent fruit and the acidity/balance is spot on. A touch of phenolic richness that adds body. Sure to age well.