Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Mouton Rothschild, Clerc Milon and d’Armailhac

June 2015

Baron Philippe de Rothschild is the parent organisation for several wineries, including one of the great wines of Bordeaux – Chateau Mouton Rothschild in the appellation of Paulliac. Promoted to 1^st growth in 1973, the wines have been consistently brilliant (vintage conditions permitting) for many decades.

The group also owns a pair of 5^th growths in Paulliac. Chateau Clerc Milon is considered the better of the two, made in a more muscular style, whilst Chateau d’Armailhac is the more feminine (and less expensive), though still age-worthy.

D’Armailhac is a neighbouring vineyard to Mouton. Whilst the ranking of the winery is not linked to specific holdings, the operations of the two are kept separate, so the best estate fruit is used to make this wine. Clerc Milon is about a kilometre north of Mouton.

Thanks to Daniel Arnoldi (the Australian importer of these wines) and John Jens (Lamonts – Cottesloe), Erwan Le Brozec from Baron Philippe de Rothschild was in Perth recently to showcase several vintages of each of these wines over lunch. With the title of Vice Commercial Director, Erwan is the Head of Export Operations for the organisation. (Some people have a hard life!).

Along with the three Grand Cru wineries, we also had a pair of wines from Le Petit Mouton, the second wine of Mouton Rothschild. Given the pricing, these wines appear to be more highly rated than the 5^th Growths.

To round the event off, we started and finished with wines from Chateau Coutet (Barsac)

In regards to the vintages, Daniel went to great trouble to select a variety of vintages going back to 1990, including the great vintages of 2000, 2005 and 2009.

Amazingly, all of the wines are available for sale, albeit in small quantities. While the prices are not cheap, the wines have come straight from the chateau in perfect condition. The prices quoted were the prices offered by Lamont’s on the day, but give you a ballpark idea of costs.

And the verdict? The wines were uniformly outstanding, accurately expressing the vintage conditions and the vineyard characters. The Clerc Milon in particular, impressed for the sheer quality of the wines. That said, the 2005 Mouton is one of the greatest wines that I have had the privilege to taste.

N.B. The 2014 indent is now being offered by select retailers. This looks like being another excellent year and prices are much reduced compared to other recent years. For example, one retailer has Chateau Margaux for $600 and Lafite for $750.

Admittedly, you will not get the wines for 2 -3 years, and it will be another 10+ years before they are ready to drink.

The Wines

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot – Paulliac – 2009. What a great way to start. Whilst the 2009 remained relatively closed and tight, the feminine, almost floral fruit was a highlight. The palate was structured and firm, but in no way austere. The fine tannins, supple oak and well-judged acidity come together on the finish, providing the backbone for a long life. Considered by some (e.g. Robert Parker) to be the best d’Armailhac ever. ($138).

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot – Paulliac – 2005. More overt power to the fruit here, but still with the trademark elegance and balance. The more muscular palate has fine, dusty (though still) firm tannins. A wine with excellent presence that would benefit from another 5+ years to open up. ($195).

Chateau d’Armailhac – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2000. Seductive, rich, generous and complex, yet still with the trademark feminine fruit. On the palate, the fruit is quite delicate and the structure is elegant and refined. The finish is defined by the way the fine, silky tannins are integrated back into the fruit in a near seamless close. A lovely wine now, but will hold. ($232).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot/Carmenere – Paulliac – 2009. The fruit on the nose is quite restrained, though the potential is clearly evident. The palate is where the quality is expressed. The dense and powerful fruit is the main focus initially, with the firm structure becoming evident on the close. The fine tannins and oak (40% new) are perceptible, but not intrusive. The finish is silky and remarkably supple, with seamless palate transition. With air, the fruit characters become more evident. A superb wine that needs time to show its best. ($171).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Petit Verdot/Carmenere – Paulliac – 2000. Given the age, the fruit is surprisingly subdued initially. With air, this starts to shine, with delicate berry notes and hints of menthol and leathery complexity. Whilst the beautiful fruit became apparent in the glass, this is a wine that still needs a few years to reach its drinking window. Classic Bordeaux for the aficionados, but one that may be lost on the average drinker. ($255).

Chateau Clerc Milon – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc – Paulliac – 1996. This has a beautiful nose that is developed, rich and complex. The palate is mature, yet full of life. The mouthfeel is a highlight leading to a long, supple finish. An enchanting wine that is drinking perfectly. ($198).

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc– Paulliac – 2009. Very tight and closed initially. This is a structured, powerful wine, though it retains a remarkable degree of elegance. The finish is supple, though the tannins and oak (100% new) prevent the fruit from opening up. A profound, masculine wine that needs years. ($495).

Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc– Paulliac – 2005. This is a very serious wine with great power and structure. There are the first signs of development (mocha/coffee notes), but the fruit is still youthful and full of vitality. The fruit density is a real step-up, yet the tannins remain very fine and the balance is exemplary. With air the fruit opens and builds, while the oak (75% new) fades into the background. A powerhouse! ($717).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2007. Given the vintage, this is a great effort. The nose is quite lovely, with a remarkable purity to the pretty fruit. Pristine red fruits abound on the palate, with berries and spice over fine textured oak. The finish is still closed, with the lighter fruit weight well matched to the structural components. Very strict fruit selection, combined with careful handling in the vineyard has produced a wine of great charm that will provide earlier drinking pleasure. ($795).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 2005. The nose here is somewhat muted at first. The palate however, is nothing short of spectacular! Refined and tight, this is full of nervous energy. Power, intensity, depth and great length, this has it all. The finish is defined by a minerality that combines with the amazing tannins and oak leading to a seamless close. It is almost as if you can taste the soil in which the vines are grown. It is a privilege to have tasted this wine. ($1729).

Chateau Mouton Rothschild – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Paulliac – 1990. Whilst the power is still evident, this has evolved into a seductive and beautiful wine. Aromas of tobacco, spice and gentle herbal notes complement the fruit which still retains great purity. In the mouth, the fruit is represented by menthol and soft leathery tones, with the fruit weight building on the palate. Whilst this has developed and is drinking beautifully, it is still a powerhouse, with bright acidity combining with remarkably fine tannins to add life and vitality to the finish. A wine of great length that is a joy to drink today! ($1196).

Chardonnay – New Release – May 2015

My love affair with Western Australian Chardonnay shows no sign of ending any time soon. Whether the fruit comes from Margaret River, Porongurup, Denmark or Mount Barker does not seem to impact on the quality. In fact, some, like Howard Park, blend fruit from several of these areas.

Interestingly, despite the climatic differences between these districts, this does not seem to directly translate into the wine style produced. Picking time and winemakers’ inputs also play a big role, along with clonal selection for the vineyards.

To keep the locals honest, I put a bottle of the Coldstream Hills Chardonnay into the tasting (Yarra Valley). This is a cracking wine and, at $25 on special from Vintage Cellars, represents very good value.

It was the wines of Howard Park and Singlefile that flew the flag admirably for the locals. This is the first time that I have seen both wineries’ new flagships

Reviewed

Howard Park – Chardonnay – Allingham – 2013 (18.5+). Cashew nut, lemon zest, grapefruit and spice, with complexity and structure from the fine-grained high quality oak. Fine acidity adds to the mouth-feel. The underlying power of the wine becomes apparent with air. This is a lovely, refined wine, with great depth of fruit and supple texture. A superb drink now or in 5+ years. (RRP $89).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Family Reserve – 2014 (18/18.5). Complex, though subtle worked characters here. Minerals/curry leaf, partial malo, lees contact and quality oak all add to the package. The flavour profile matches the nose, with stonefruit, pineapple and citrus notes. Long and quite restrained, with nutty characters and apricot kernel astringency to close. An excellent wine that will be even better in 5 years. (RRP $50).

Singlefile – Chardonnay – The Vivienne – 2012 (18/18.5). A leaner, more restrained style that appears somewhat immature at this stage. Full of potential, the taut grapefruit and melon notes are the main flavours now. With air, the texture and lovely mouth-feel really shine, aided by deftly handled oak leading on to a very long, drying palate. Give it 5 years to see it at its best. (RRP $80).

Howard Park – Chardonnay – 2014 (18.3). Restrained and fine, though the high quality fruit and winemaking is evident. Pineapple like acidity carries the finish. Modern and lively, this is another wine that needs a few years to come into its own. That said, the balance and structure are exemplary. A complex, mouth-watering wine that needs time. (RRP $54).

Coldstream Hills – Chardonnay – 2013 (18). Youthful, almost zesty fruit gives way to complex fruit characters. The high quality oak adds depth and texture, yet is in no-way overt. Long and taut, this has excellent presence and mouth-feel, with drying acidity to close. A fine wine that will be best in 2 – 3 years, or with food now.

Marchand and Burch – Chardonnay – Porongurup – 2014 (18 – 18.5). This is a richly textured wine with great depth of fruit. Opens with lovely pineapple and stonefruit characters. The palate is very long, with savoury complexity and minerals becoming apparent on the finish. This is a very powerful wine that will be at its best in 3 – 5 years. (RRP $73).

Reviewed by Barry Weinman

Bargain Winter Reds – May 2015

17^th May 2015

As the cold weather approaches, my thoughts turn to hearty casseroles, fragrant curries and spaghetti in all its forms. There is nothing better to wash down a delicious midweek meal than a good bottle of red that will not break the bank.

Whilst there are numerous wines that fit this bill, the wines recommended below stand out as they are affordable AND delicious.

Reviewed

La Vieille Ferme – Rhone Blend – Ventoux – 2013 (17.5+). A finer, more restrained style, with savoury characters over currants, plum and floral berry notes. There is a lick of aniseed to close. Fine tannins frame the fruit nicely, with little in the way of oak to get in the way. Excellent balance and texture, with souring acidity adding to the long finish. Succulent, easy drinking, and great value! Made by the Perrin family. (RRP $18).

Shingleback – Shiraz – Vin Vale – 2013 (17.3). Plush and succulent fruit on the nose. Not dense or pretentious: a delicious quaff. The palate is soft, supple and has decent tannin structure to keep the fruit in check. Exclusive to 1^st Choice and Liquorland (RRP $15).

Whiz Bang – Shiraz – 2014 (17). Aromas of chocolate and spice, with hints of fruitcake. Licorice- infused fruit on the palate, with decent texture. Not overly concentrated, but mouth-filling and a joy to drink. (RRP $16).

De Bortoli – Sangiovese – Bella Riva – 2012 (17). Savoury fruit on the nose, with blueberry and spice notes. The palate is defined by the acid/tannin structure, which confers length and drive. Only mid weight, but a good drink

Caledonia Australis

10^th May 2015

The South Gippsland Wine Company is the parent company for Caledonia Australis and Mount Macleod wines.

The vineyards that make up the estate started life as a project to supply Bass Philip Winery with fruit grown in close-planted vineyards in the early 1990s. In 2008/2009, Mark Matthews purchased the vineyards and then the winery/brands.

The focus here is on the Burgundian varieties Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Mount Macleod being the more approachable (and less expensive) brand.

Mark was in town a little while ago to show the current releases. These were predominantly from the 2012 vintage, which turned out to be a good year. There was delayed flowering, but the weather held to allow for picking of excellent quality grapes in April. Given that many other regions harvested in February that year, it demonstrates the cool climate nature of the region.

The wines were uniformly good to very good. The Mount Macleod represents good value early drinking. It is my view, however, that it is worth paying a little extra for the Caledonia Australis range. These wines are not Burgundies, but they are fine examples of good Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Given the discount available from the website, these wines represent very good value!

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so the usual caveats apply to my points.

Reviewed

Mount Macleod – Chardonnay – 2012 (17 – 17.5). Leaner fruit on the nose; this is quite fine and elegant. The palate has spice and almond meal characters and has a degree of viscosity in the way it coats the mouth. The fine, crisp acidity carries the near seamless finish. (RRP $26: $18 from the winery).

Caledonia Australis – Chardonnay – 2012 (17.5 – 18). Compared to the Mount Macleod, there is more intensity to the fruit here on both the nose and palate. Peach, apricot, citrus and grapefruit are apparent, whilst the finish is long and savoury. There is lovely line and length here with some pineapple, cashew nut and mineral notes to close. (RRP $36: contact winery for pricing).

Mount Macleod – Pinot Noir – 2013 (17.5). Bright, fresh cherry fruit to the fore, with savoury notes adding interest. The palate has spice characters and decent texture, with a savoury lift. Whilst it is not overly dense, it is delicious and succulent. Acidity to close keeps thing fresh. Great value (RRP $26: $18 from the winery).

Caledonia Australis – Pinot Noir – 2012 (18). Like the Chardonnay, there is greater density to the fruit apparent here. Cherry, savoury spice, earthy notes and restrained oak all gel into a long, savoury, almost ethereal palate. Fine and tight, this is excellent. The souring tannins and acid add life, ensuring longevity. Balanced but needs time. (RRP $36: $28 from the winery).

Sittella Winery

New meets Old

May 2015

Sittella, situated in the Swan Valley on the outskirts of Perth, is owned and run by the Berns family. The winery was built in 1997, with the cellar door and restaurant opening the following year.

Fruit is primarily sourced from the family’s vineyards in the Swan Valley and Margaret River, supplemented by purchased fruit from these regions as well as Frankland.

Senior winemaker Colby Quirk is ably assisted by the next generation of the Berns family – Yuri. The focus here is clearly on quality. 40% of production is sparkling wine, with the sparkling Chenin Blanc being the winery’s largest volume wine.

The quality focus is not only in the vineyard, but also in the winery. The sparkling wines are made in the traditional method (secondary fermentation in bottle), and are fairly dry in style (all under 10gm/l residual sugar). All fermentation tanks are refrigerated and the winery has gyro-pallets installed to assist with the riddling of the sparkling wines prior to disgorgement (they are one of only a few facilities in WA that are able to produce quality sparkling wines in quantity).

Whilst the focus is on the sparkling wines, it is the Chardonnays that shone in this tasting. That said, their yet to be released Coffee Rock Shiraz from 2013 was the most interesting wine that I tried. Whilst different in style to Faber’s Shiraz for example, it is an excellent illustration of what the Swan Valley can do with this most versatile variety.

Reviewed

Sittella – Chenin Blanc – NV (NR). Made entirely from Swan Valley fruit, even the entry level offering has low dosage (less than 10g/l of residual sugar) and is made in the traditional method. It is the vibrant, floral fruit that is the feature here. Great Sunday afternoon wine. (RRP $24).

Sittella – Chardonnay – Blanc de Blanc – NV (17-17.5). Refined and elegant nose, with white peach and nectarine. The palate is dry and restrained, with the taut chardonnay fruit coming to the fore, with lemon-like acidity to close. Long and fine, this is a serious effort. Fruit from Pemberton. (RRP $29).

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – Wilyabrup – 2014 (18+). Melon, peach and grapefruit on the nose, with supple oak. Powerful, complex and worked, yet refined and with a degree of restraint on the finish. This is youthful and fresh, with lemony acid to close. Long and supple, but will be even better in a year or two. Not yet released.

Sittella – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2013 (18). Tighter and more refined than the 2014, but still with high quality fruit apparent. A modern iteration of Chardonnay, this needs a few years to open up and build. With air; flint, minerals, spice notes evolve. The taut oak is apparent, but in no way overt. The textural components build and are a highlight. Value for money. (RRP $29).

Sittella – Cabernet Sauvignon – Margaret River – 2011 (17.2). Decent concentration of fruit here, though it is in the cooler spectrum, with mint and herbal notes. The palate is chewy and dense, with fine tannins from the fruit and oak. The textured finish is a treat. Remarkably approachable now, but will live for years. (Available for under $12 from the cellar door!)

Sittella – Shiraz/Grenache/Tempranillo – 2014 (17.3). Fleshy, ripe and delicious, I like this. Decent fruit quality in a riper style. Long and mouth-filling, what this lacks in elegance, it makes up for in richness. Good balance to close. (RRP $18).

Sittella – Shiraz – Coffee Rock – 2013 (18). Chocolate, mint, spice and aniseed all vie for attention on the nose. The palate is balanced, textured, refined and very long. The tannins are polished and supple. Succulent fruit, but will live for years, courtesy of the acid balance. Good now, but will be even better in a few years. This comes from old vines, grown in coffee rock in the Swan Valley. Despite being 15.5% alc, this shows no signs of being hot in the mouth.

Aging White Wine

21^st April 2015

This topic was brought into focus by several wines I opened recently. The highlight of the year so far was a bottle of White Burgundy (Chardonnay). The wine was a 1983 1^er Cru Chassagne Montrachet from Blain Gagnard.

Whilst the colour of the wine in the bottle was good and the level of the wine was still high in the bottle, I must admit that I did not have high hopes for the wine. This was a 35 year old Chardonnay after all. Even when the cork came out in great condition, I was still unsure.

The outcome, however, was nothing short of spectacular! The colour was golden, but without a hint of browning. The nose was aromatic and complex, yet balanced and harmonious.

The palate, however, was where the wine really shone. The fruit characters and minerality were still evident, while there was enough acidity to keep the wine alive and fresh. The mouthfeel and texture were a highlight and the length and complexity noteworthy.

A brilliant wine that was appreciated by both the aficionados and novices in the room. The age of the wine adding to the occasion. Would the wine have been better 20 years earlier we will never know, but it would have been nowhere near as memorable!

Should We Age White Wines?

The question of how long to age wine is a complex one, with a number of factors influencing the outcome. These include

Grape variety
Origin (country, region, vineyard)
Style
Cellaring conditions
Method of closure
Track record of the producer
Personal preference

Grape Variety

There is no hard and fast rule about what grapes age best.

Riesling and Semillon from Australia have a long reputation of taking bottle age very well, transforming from fresh, vibrant wines into complex, mellow ones.
The best Chardonnays age well, but style plays an important part here
Varieties such as Chenin Blanc and Verdelho have a brilliant track record in the right hands
I used to believe that Sauvignon Blanc (and SBS) from the new world did not age well, yet the advent of screw caps and the modification of style has changed my thoughts completely

Origin

A key component to making wines age-worthy is the amount of acidity in the wine. The acid tends to soften as the wine ages, meaning that low acid examples start to look flabby and flat.

Temperature and grape variety pay a key role here. Chardonnay or Riesling grown in very warm districts will struggle to maintain enough acid to warrant aging. Earlier ripening varieties such as Chenin Blanc however have excellent aging potential from warm regions like the Swan Valley, in the hands of the right producer.

Style

Some wines are made to be consumed earlier than others. Fruit quality as well as winemaking inputs can have an impact here. If you are not sure, go for producers with the best track record.

Cellaring Conditions

Cabernet and Shiraz in particular, seem to tolerate less than ideal conditions and still age well in the medium term. White wines do not seem as robust. That said, it may still be worth tucking away a few bottles of Riesling in a cooler part of the house for a few years.

Method of Closure

Screw cap is king. Cork adds another (unwanted) variable to aging wines. The best corks are remarkable. Unfortunately, with very old wines, you may go through a few duds along the way.

Track Record of the Producer

Not sure what whites to buy to tuck away for a few years? Go with the wineries that have a reputation for making wines that appreciate in the cellar.

Personal Preference

This is perhaps the most important point of all. If you are not accustomed to drinking old wine, you may not get as much joy as you might have thought . If you are not sure how long to keep a wine, in general, I would suggest erring on the side of caution.

A good wine opened a few years before its peak is still a good wine. A good wine that has been left too long may no longer offer drinking joy.

Salomon Wines – April 2015

20/04/2015

A few weeks back, Burt Salomon was in town to showcase his range of wines. What makes Salomon unusual though, is the fact that he makes wines on both sides of the equator. Having established a passion for making wines in the new world, Burt took over the reins at his family’s wine business in Austria a few years back.

The results are that there are quality wines being made under the Salomon label from both Austria (white wine) and Australia (red wine). This blending of new and old techniques has allowed Salomon to experiment with styles, challenging the convention with some of the whites in particular.

Below is a selection of wines that I particularly enjoyed.

Grunner Veltliner

Hochterrassen 2013 (17).

Savoury, almost apricot fruit on the nose. Light and fresh in the mouth, with decent mouth-feel and texture. A neutral wine made for early consumption with food. (Think Pinot Grigio). (RRP $27).

Wieden & Berg Kremstal 2013 (17.5).

A lovley, aromatic example that has apricot and a nutty cashew character. The palate is slightly viscous, and mouth-coating. Long and supple, the zesty lemon-like acidity carries the finish. Good drinking. (RRP $34).

Wachtberg Kremstal DAC & Erste & Lage 2013 (18.5).

This wine is a step up in quality in every way, and worth the modest price premium. There is density to the fruit that is quite remarkable. The power is palpable. The length and texture on the finish are note-worthy. The apricot notes are more muted, with supple citrus and fine, tingling acidity. Superb wine. (RRP $38).

Von Stein Kremestal DAC Reserve 2013 (18.5+).

A brilliant nose that is floral, fragrant and delicate, yet packed with power and intensity. The stonefruit notes continue, but the density and intensity are superb. Worth seeking out. (RRP $64)

Riesling

Undhof Kogl 2012 (18).

Reminiscent of a wine from the Porongorups, with fragrant fruit over a mineral core. Lovely lime-like fruit and excellent acidity on the palate, closing with a refreshing citrus tang. The fruit has a degree of density and viscosity that is attractive. Good line and length. (RRP $38).

Stiener Kogl Kremestal DAC Reserve 2011 (18.5).

The richness to the fruit is disarming. This is dense, viscous, textural and very long. There are lime characters, but with complex minerals and an almost musk-like lift. The finish is off-dry and all the better for it. Superb wine. 18.5 (RRP $59).

Plantagenet Wines – 7th April 2015

Serving wine in optimal condition does not happen by accident. At home, we are able to control factors such as the temperature of the wine and also the amount of air exposure that the wine receives prior to drinking (either via decanting or leaving the bottle open).

I also take care to ensure that I use a high-quality wine glass to present the wine in the most favourable light. For years now, the Vinum – Chianti glass from Riedel has been my preferred glass.

Unfortunately, the same care and attention is not always given to wine by others. Examples include: wholesalers who store their wines in an industrial shed with no refrigeration, retailers who display wines in a hot window or in a display cabinet with a halogen light that heats the wine all day.

Restaurants are also hit and miss, with the temperature of the wine being the most common problem (Red wines to warm and white wines to cold). Another bugbear is when wines available by the glass are not fresh. I have been served wines that have been open for four days and have lost all fruit. Sure, the staff are happy to open a fresh bottle if asked, but the customer deserves better.

I do feel sorry though for wineries offering tastings mid-week when customer numbers are low. Having worked hard to produce the wine, there can be a reluctance to discard half-used bottles within a day or two of opening.

The financial implications are obvious. This is a double-edged sword though, as serving oxidised wines will give potential customers a less than ideal experience. The problem is exacerbated during the Australian summer, when high temperatures accelerate the deterioration.

It was a visit to a couple of wineries in late January that really highlighted the effect that this can have. Tasting the red wines at one unnamed winery was a real challenge. The bottles were sitting on the counter and the temperature was over 30 degrees. When combined with a bottle that had been opened for three days, it is not surprising that I did not really appreciate the wines.

My last stop for the day was Plantagenet Winery in Mt Barker, and what a revelation it was. Yes, the tasting room was air-conditioned, but the wines were also stored in optimal condition. For example they have two fridges for to store their tasting wines: one at 12˚C for wines such as the Chardonnay, and another much cooler for the Riesling etc.

Whilst Plantagenet has an extensive range of wines available, this review focusses on the premium wines labelled as Plantagenet, as well as the Juxtapose range, which is aimed at the restaurant market.

Overall, the wines were of very high quality and represent excellent value for money.

Reviewed

Plantagenet – Riesling – 2014 (18). Floral fruit notes on both the nose and palate, yet there is a steely backbone that adds structure. The textural components on the palate are a highlight, with an almost talc-like minerality. The gentle lime-like acidity adds to the excellent length (now or in 10 years) (RRP $25).

Plantagenet – Sauvignon Blanc – Juxtaposed – 2014 (17.5). Tropical fruit characters to the fore on the nose. Whilst the fragrant, floral fruit is the focus here, there is just enough lees and barrel ferment characters to add depth and make this really interesting.

Plantagenet – Chardonnay – 2014 (18). A complex wine. The nose opens with fresh stone-fruit, yet there are attractive worked* notes. The palate is rich, textured and long, opening with melon and stone fruit and finishing with a lick of toasty oak. A mainstream style that will be at its best in a year or two. (RRP $25).

Plantagenet – Pinot Noir – Juxtapose – 2013 (17.5). Fragrant red fruit characters lead the charge, with a savoury undertone redolent of spice. The chewy, textured fruit is allowed to shine here, with little in the way of oak apparent. A touch of mineral-like tannins add depth to the finish. Excellent current drinking. (RRP $28).

Plantagenet – Shiraz (Syrah) – Juxtapose – 2012 (17.5). True to the style of the Juxtapose range, the Syrah shows forward, fresh and vibrant fruit, framed by bright acidity. Good texture, with subtle oak adding depth. The fine acid and tannins carry the finish. Good drinking! (RRP $28).

Plantagenet – Shiraz – 2012 (18.5). Perfumed, ripe red berry fruit characters over licorice and supple spice. The palate stands out for its superb structure. Fine, savoury, tight and firm, yet this retains a degree of approachability. The silky tannins add to the mouthfeel, and the length is exemplary. (RRP $45). A recent bottle of 1996 Shiraz highlighted just how well these wines age.

Plantagenet – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012 (18+). Mint, red currant and spice meld together on the nose. The mint carries though to the palate, where it is complemented by delicious, savoury herbal notes. The serious fruit has real depth and, combined with dusty tannins, confers excellent length to the palate. Whilst this needs years to reach its best (and score even higher points), the supple mouthfeel and balance make this approachable now. (RRP $45).

* Worked notes refers to characters that develop as a result of winemaking efforts. This includes the use of oak maturation, barrel fermentation and lees stirring.

New Release – March 2015

Cherubino – Chardonnay – Ad Hoc – Hen and Chicken – 2014 (17.5 – 18). Complex, yet harmonious nose. Grapefruit, peach and pineapple spring to mind, with a touch of Jasmine. Relatively tight and modern, the underlying ripe fruit builds with air. The acid balance here is excellent, and the creamy texture a highlight. Oak a touch noticeable, but this settles back with air. Excellent value. (RRP $22).

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2013 (17.6). (RRP $27). The pineapple-like fruit is more obvious here with flinty notes adding interest. Though rich and round, there is a degree of polish that elevates this above average. The quality oak adds texture and depth to close. Excellent current drinking.

Topper’s Mountain – Chardonnay Blend – Bricolage – 2013 (17.5). A nice wine this. On the nose, the relatively muted fruit touches on the tropical spectrum. With air, this opens to show stone fruit, hints of spice and rose water perfume. The palate is savoury and textured, with excellent length, persistence and mouth-feel. A smart wine that is a treat to drink and should partner Asian food very well. Did I mention the excellent packaging?

Bella Riva – Pinot Grigio – King Valley – 2013 (17). In a true Grigio style, where the savoury textural notes are emphasised and the fruit muted. Fresh and light bodied, this would be perfect with a caesar salad. Value! (RRP $16).

Shottesbrooke – Chardonnay – 1337 – NV (16.8). The mousse is quite foamy initially. There is a lovely clean, fresh nose. The palate is light and fresh, with fresh lemon-like acidity. I like the mouth-feel, even if there is not great depth to the fruit. The finish feels quite dry, making for a good value summer’s afternoon drink. Must be applauded for using a crown seal (beer cap) closure. (RRP $20).

Pinot Noir – March 2015

13^th March 2015

The surprise of this tasting was the Trapeze Pinot Noir. This is made by Brian Conway at Izway (a Barossa Shiraz & Grenache specialist) using Yarra Valley fruit. This is an affordable, great drinking Pinot.

Reviewed

Peay – Pinot Noir – 2012 (18). Forest floor aromas over strawberry fruit. The palate is fleshy, yet there is decent tannins and oak bringing focus to the finish. Deceptively powerful, this is a richer style that will have many fans. From the Sonoma Coast.

Greywacke – Pinot Noir – 2010 (18). (RRP $45). Lovely Pinot fruit on the nose. This has red berries, souring cherry and earthy notes. In the mouth, the fruit coats the tongue, with the cherry-like acidity and fine tannins that build on the close. A superb drink now or any time over the next 5 years.

Trapeze – Pinot Noir – 2012 (17.8). Pretty, fragrant and perfumed. The palate is light, yet full of ripe summer fruits. This is quite a serious effort, with depth and structure showing through on the finish. The sappy/savoury notes add complexity (I wonder if this has had partial whole bunch fermentation). The length and persistence are note-worthy. A delight now or in 5 years, this is a relative bargain. (RRP $28).

Yerring Station – Pinot Noir – Village – 2012 (17.7). Another lovely wine that is immediately attractive and approachable. Supple red fruits with a hint of earthy complexity. Excellent fruit length and persistence combine with refreshing acidity on the close to add life and interest. Great value current drinking.