Category Archives: Chardonnay – Wine Reviews

Chardonnay – September 2014

6th September 2014

Whilst the majority of the wines in this tasting were recent releases, there were a couple of iconic wines slipped in that proved to be a real highlight.

Whilst I have reviewed Vasse Felix’s 2012 Heytesbury previously, it was not in a blind tasting. Here, the wine proved to be the star in a very fine lineup.

At the other end of the price spectrum, the return of Houghton’s Crofters label is heralded by a fantastic value Chardonnay. Not to be outdone, the Regional Series Chardonnay by Capel Vale offers outstanding current drinking at a modest price.

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2012 (18.5 – 19). Spectacular nose! Curry leaf, minerals, power, depth and complexity. The palate is flooded with minerals and more of that curry leaf character, but there is superb depth to the fruit with zesty acidity adding life. The texturing oak adds greatly to the appeal. This builds intensity with air and lingers for a very long time. Complete and silky, this is unbelievably good.

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2011 (18.5 – 19). Very taut and restrained on the nose. There is superb fruit that has enough depth now to make for lovely drinking, but really needs 5+ years to reach, what will be, a very high peak. Complex, worked and very long, the creamy oak is merely a hint in the background. Seamless and spectacular!

Cullen – Chardonnay – Kevin John – 2011 (18.5). Closed, tight and restrained. The grapefruit and mandarin-like citrus characters give way to powerful mineral and flint like notes with a touch of sulphur over high quality oak. This is a powerful wine that builds tremendous depth in the mouth. The length is a feature. Now or in 5 years.

Millbrook – Chardonnay – LR – 2013 (18 – 18.5). This wines is a textural feast. Whilst there is superb fruit on show, it was the silky, seductive mouth-feel that really made a statement. This is a slightly richer style than some here, but the creamy lees/oak characters seamlessly integrate with the fruit to make for an outstanding drink. Took a day or two to hit its peak, suggesting that a short time in the cellar will only help. (RRP $45).

Thompson Estate – Chardonnay – 2012 (18). A lithe, elegant wine that puts finesse and balance ahead of overt power. Hints of minerals and savoury notes, with supple, medium toast oak to close. A very smart wine that took a day to hit its straps. (RRP $40).

Capel Vale – Chardonnay – Regional Series – 2012 (17.5 – 18). Minerals and steely notes over peach/nectarine fruit characters and crunchy acidity. Creamy lemon curd notes add depth to the palate. The quality fruit has been deftly handled in the winery with sympathetic oak use. A youthful wine that is sure to blossom in the bottle. From Margaret River. (RRP $25).

Houghton – Chardonnay – Crofters – 2013 (17.5 – 18). This is a pretty wine, with almost floral fruit characters over nectarine and peach. The palate is balanced and nicely textured. The ripe fruit is the main feature, with the supple oak and barrel ferment characters just adding depth on the finish. Will fill out with a year or two in bottle. A Pemberton/Margaret River blend. (RRP $19).

Xanadu Winery – August 2014

31st August 2014

Xanadu (noun): An idealized place of great or idyllic magnificence and beauty

Oxford Dictionary

Starting life as Chateau Xanadu, the Lagan family planted their first vineyard in 1977. Many good Cabernet-based wines were produced by the winery over the subsequent two decades. However, their listing on the Australian Stock Exchange in 2001 (and subsequent expansion), coincided with a difficult period for the winery that is now simply known as Xanadu.

In 2005, Doug Rathborne (Managing Director of Nufarm) purchased the winery and vineyards, adding them to his stable of high quality wineries. With Yering Station (Yarra Valley), Mount Langi Ghiran (Grampians) and Parker Estate (Coonawara) already in the group, the addition of Xanadu added a Western Australian arm to the business.

Given the quality of the other three wineries, I had high hopes for the quality of the wines from Xanadu following the takeover. With Glen Goodall leading the winemaking, there was a noticeable improvement in the quality of the wines.

Since 2010 though, Xanadu seems to have stepped up a gear, the wines (especially those made from Cabernet) shining in numerous tastings.

With the current release, it was the Chardonnays that really made me sit up and pay attention. Whilst the DJL was a decent effort, it was the Xanadu and Reserve that really stood out.

The Xanadu was a complete and captivating wine that could be drunk with pleasure now, whereas the Reserve was restrained and taut, crying out for a few years in the cellar.

With these wines, it is clear that Xanadu is living up to its name.

Reviewed

Xanadu – Chardonnay – DJL – 2013 (17). Youthful and fruit driven, with lemony acid to close. Will build more depth on the mid palate with a year or two in bottle. A decent effort that is an easy drinking option now.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – 2012 (18.2). Beautiful nose that is seductive and compelling. The nose opens with pineapple, stone-fruit and zesty grapefruit notes. The palate is very long and fine, with lovely palate transition. The quality fruit has been skillfully matched to high quality oak. The creamy texture is a highlight, aided by excellent winemaking. A restrained wine that, whilst delicious now, has everything present to make for a superb drink in 3 – 5 years. (RRP $35).

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2012 (18.5). The most complex of the three wines, but also the least accessible at present. The nose is quite tight and restrained, with the high quality fruit and winemaking needing air to become apparent. It is on the palate that the quality really stands out. The way the fine stone fruit and citrus notes sit over minerals and curry leaf are redolent of fine Burgundy. Supple, textured, long, refined and elegant, with near seamless palate transition. A lovely wine that will improve for several years to come. (RRP $85).

Chardonnay – New Release

Reviewed: 8th November 2013

This was a fascinating tasting that highlighted the quality and diversity of chardonnays being made in Australia.  From the taut austerity of the Devils Lair, the balance of the Frankland Estate, to the richness and depth of the Singlefile, they are all quality wines.

Interestingly, there were a couple of wines from 2013 in the tasting.  These have not been reviewed, as they were just too young to properly assess them at this point.

Reviewed.

Devils Lair – Chardonnay – 2012 (18).  A very fine wine made in a lighter style.  The fruit has been picked early to retain freshness and vitality, though this comes at the cost of immediate drinkability.  There is no denying the quality of the  fruit, and this has been very well handled.  The key feature here is the excellent length and persistence.  This wine took four days to really open up and shine, so cellaring is recommended.

Singlefile – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2012 (18).  Wow, superb nose that has powerful fruit combined with complex winemaker’s inputs that adds a struck match character to the minerals and quality oak.  The palate is rich, dense and very long.  The oak sits well with the fruit, though a year or two should see this settle back a little and allow the fruit to really shine.  The finish is very long and complex, with curry leaf and spice to close.  Expensively made.

Frankland Estate – Chardonnay – Isolation Ridge – 2012 (17.9).  This wine takes the middle ground between the Devils Lair and Singlefile.  The fruit is attractive and well matched to the subtle winemaking notes.  Aroma wise, there is lemon, stonefruit, melon and a hint of tropical fruit.  The palate is supple, creamy and quite savoury.  The finish is very balanced and near seamless, though the acid cuts a swath through the creamy texture.  A smart wine that will be even better in 2 – 3 years.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – DJL – 2012 (17.4).  Fresh, vibrant and very smart.  A modern style that has a portion of earlier picked fruit to retain freshness.  Good quality fruit is matched by lovely, citrus-like acidity, with the oak adding texture to the palate.  Well made.

Willow Bridge – Chardonnay – G1-10 – 2012 (17.5).  Lovely wine this, in a subtly worked style.  There is excellent fruit and winemaking and quite a seamless finish.  The oak sits nicely with the fruit and adds texturally.  Good mouth-feel and length to close.

 

Bannockburn – Current Release Pinot and Chardonnay

Reviewed: 3rd August 2013

Michael Glover, the winemaker at Bannockburn is a (self-proclaimed) very lucky man!  According to Michael, the quality of the fruit that comes from the Bannockburn vineyards is so exceptional, that it makes him look good.

I am the first to agree that the fruit that goes into the Bannockburn range is truly outstanding.  I am not so naive as to say, however, that the winemaker has not had a significant role in harnessing the quality fruit and transforming it in to a range of stunning wines.

One of the highlights of the tasting was to see the terroir of the vineyards expressed in each wine that we tried.  Michael is passionate about site expression and believes that this only happens when yields are very low.  I use the term terroir loosely, as for me, it is the intersection of the soil, the climate, the vines and, most importantly, the people who transform the grapes in to the finished product.

Michael’s fingerprints are all over these wines, but that is a very good thing.  There is a consistency across the entire range, where texture, complexity and depth are valued over power and where the winemaking inputs are supple and subtle.  Having said that, with the exception of sulphur, these wines are made without additions in the winery.

These are very high quality wines where the winemaking has allowed the fruit to truly express its sense of place, albeit in a very tight, age-worthy package.  Even the sauvignon blanc (a wine of great complexity) would benefit from three to five years in the cellar.

The two highlights of the tasting were both from the stellar 2010 vintage.  Both the “standard” chardonnay and the Stuart pinot noir are nothing short of spectacular.  The rest of the range is remarkably consistent and of very high quality.  In many ways my choices come down to personal preference, as these are all excellent wines.

Two caveats for the tasting:  Firstly, this was not a blind tasting and the winemaker was present.  Secondly, all the reds were sealed with natural cork.

Reviewed

Bannockburn – Sauvignon Blanc – 2012 (17.7).  This wine has a very complex, worked and powerful nose, with spice, struck-match and flint-like minerality.  The palate is dense and powerful, though surprisingly closed and restrained at present.  Lemony, long and fine, I would like to see this again in a year or two, as it is sure to age well for 5+ years.  100% barrel ferment in puncheons.  2/3 French, 1/3 Italian (made from acacia rather than oak).  The vines are 25 years old and have low yields (2kg/vine).  Aims to be uniquely Bannockburn!
(After 3 days on the tasting bench, this developed remarkably floral fruit aromas).

Bannockburn – Chardonnay – 2010 (18.5+).  Beautiful nose that stands out for its elegance and finesse, with hints of almond meal.  There is a delicate minerality running through both the nose and palate.  There is crisp stonefruit, with layers of creamy oak and delicate floral notes on the palate.  Very long, though this is restrained and a touch linear now.  Superb balance between the restrained fruit and quality oak.  With near seamless palate transition, this is a spectacular wine!  From 30-year-old vines, the wine spends 2 years on lees and has 100% malo-lactic fermentation.  It took 24 hours on the tasting bench for it to open up and show its best, but the result was memorable!

Bannockburn – Chardonnay – S R H – 2009 (18).  Richer and more developed, but yet retains the elegance of the standard release.  Fine and restrained, with seamless oak and very precise, focused acidity to close.  Mouth-feel and texture the key here.  Whilst I marginally preferred the focus and poise of the 2010 “standard” release, this is a remarkably fine wine.  Wait 5 years to start drinking.  ($77, only 100 cases made).

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – 2009 (17.8).  Chewy, dense, textured, long, sappy and savoury.  This wine is not about primary fruit, it is about the textural experience.  There is, however lovely fruit underneath this, with spicy, dark cherry notes.  The silky finish brings it all together, but it needs years for the fruit to emerge from its cocoon.  Lovers of structured Burgundy will get a kick out of this wine.

The similarities to Nuit St George were remarkable, to the point that I had to open a bottle of 1er Cru Burgundy as a comparison.  The similarities were marked, though there was a touch more ripeness to the fruit of this wine.  2009 was a low yielding, tannic vintage, and the wine had 100% whole bunch fermentation.  12.5% alc. $53 rrp.

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Stuart – 2010 (18.5+).  In contrast to the structure of the 2009 pinot, this wine is seductive and totally gorgeous.  Initially, this is lighter in structure, while the fruit is more floral.  This is immediately approachable, yet has elegance, length and persistence.  The perfume flows from the palate back into the nose, boosting the enjoyment further.  Silky and very fine, though the structure and power really builds with time in the glass.

A delightful wine now or in five + years.  The ethereal notes that this wine offered up as it sat in the glass harked to the great wines from Chambolle Musigny.  (Named after the founder Stuart R Hooper.  $70rrp and a bargain).

Bannockburn – Pinot Noir – Serre – 2008 (18.5).  Gorgeous fruit on both the nose and palate, though this is cloaked in a shroud of restraint.  On the palate there is cherry, spice and a wonderful silky mouth-feel.  The long and savoury finish cries out for food.  Again, this is near seamless.  Amazing intensity with the proverbial peacock’s tail finish (the fruit really fans out and evolves, providing flavour and texture to the entire palate).

Using the comparisons to Burgundy again, this is more in the mould of Vosne Romanee.  The fruit for this wine comes from a separate, close-planted vineyard.  (9000 vines per hectare, average yield 500gm of fruit per vine, but can be as low as 250gm/vine).  $91rrp.

 

Magnum Lunch

Fraser’s Restaurant

24th May 2013

Eighteen wine enthusiasts, twenty one magnums of outstanding wine and one of Perth’s best chefs recently combined for a truly memorable experience. No occasion was needed to bring a remarkable collection of both wines and people together for the second magnum lunch at Fraser’s Restaurant in Kings Park.

The lunch was conceived by John Jens, but it was Bob Winterbottom who made the lunch a reality. Bob set the guidelines for what wines could be brought and coordinated selections to ensure that there was a spread of wines from various styles. Once the list was finalised, Bob passed this on to Chris Taylor at Fraser’s. Chris developed a spectacular meal that complemented the wines superbly.

There were so many vinous highlights that it seems unfair to give the wines points. Needless to say that many of the wines would have been awarded gold medals. I will go out on a limb and say that the line-up was one of the best collections of wine that I have tasted in years.

One highlight for me was the bracket of Corton Charlemagne’s from Bonneau du Martray. It was fascinating to see how the style has evolved over the last few years. The 2008 was drinking spectacularly, but the 2010 was, quite possibly, the greatest wine of the tasting.

Another highlight was the three Second Growths from Bordeaux. Whilst the quality of the 2000 vintage was superbly highlighted by the Leoville Barton and the Cos d’Estronnel, the 2001 Leoville Las Cases was also a superstar.

The food that was prepared to accompany the wines was uniformly superb. For me, the highlight was the roast whole pig! A special mention must go to William and Bronwyn from Fraser’s who provided us with superb service throughout the event.

Ultimately though, it was the company of the other 17 wine tragics who attended that made the day so memorable.

How soon can we do it again???

Champagne

We started the lunch on the restaurant forecourt where Chris shucked Ceduna oysters as we sipped on the four Champagnes. It was a perfect start, the picturesque backdrop only adding to the sense of occasion.

Pol Roger – Champagne – 1996. This wine stood out for its great finesse and balance. Yes, it was fully mature, but there was still life and vitality. A great way to start. (From Magnum).

Krug – Champagne – NV. Remarkably, this had spent 11 years in bottle since it was purchased. Fully mature, complex, rich and finely balanced, this was a great drink and perfectly complemented by the ocean tang of the oysters. (From Magnum).

Dom Perignon – Champagne – 1990. Unfortunately, the cork on this spoiled the party. (From Magnum).

Dom Perignon – Champagne – Oenotheque – 1996. Unbelievably fresh and tight, the lemony citrus characters leading the charge on both the nose and the palate. This needs years to reach its drinking peak but is a superb wine!

Barsac

The pairing of the Climens and the parfait was an inspired combination. The silky texture of the parfait was the perfect foil to the wines richness.

Chateau Climens – Barsac – 1995. Balanced, precise, rich (though not in any way cloying) and very long. Apricot, almond and marzipan combine with wonderful spice notes on both the nose and the palate. Whilst this is superb now, it will last for many more years.

White Burgundy and Chablis

Given the refinement of the wines in this bracket, I was concerned that the mushroom risotto that accompanied it would overwhelm the fruit. In reality, the risotto was remarkably delicate and refined, adding a lovely backdrop to the whites.

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2004. A very complex wine, the minerals and honey on the nose combined well with the toasty, developed characters on the palate. Powerful, intense and very long, this has developed very nicely. (From Magnum).

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2008. Sublime drinking here. Grapefruit and lemony acid lead onto complex mineral characters, spice and a hint of curry leaf. Outstanding drive and length to a wine that is great now, but will also develop well for a few years. (From Magnum).

Bonneau du Martray – Corton Charlemagne – Grand Cru – 2010.  Precise, focused and tight, this is a restrained and silky wine that flows seamlessly to a very long finish. A stunning wine and one of my favourites for the day. (From Magnum).

Domaine Francois Raveneau – Chapelot – Chablis – 1er Cru – 2009. Very tight, lean and racy, with lemon, nectarine and citrus rind notes. Outstanding length to a wine that needs 5 years to really start to hit its straps. (From Magnum).

Domaine Baron Thenard – Le Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2007. Opens with really tangy citrus notes. A very powerful wine that has subtle minerals and a very fine texture. Creamy and very long, this is a superb wine of power and restraint. Will age for years, but this is sublime!

Blain Gagnard – Batard Montrachet – Grand Cru – 2006. This is a very powerful wine, though the nose is remarkably tight at present. A big wine that still needs a few years for the powerful fruit to fully integrate with the oak and show its best. (From Magnum).

Red Burgundy

The Burgundies were accompanied by a complex and artistically prepared dish of braised lamb. A delicious dish, with the natural acidity of the wines complementing the richness of the food.

Pousse d’Or  – Volnay – 1er Cru – Caillerets – 1990. This bottle had, perhaps, seen better days as it was very earthy and old fashioned. (From Magnum).

Armand Rousseau – Ruchottes-Chambertin – Grand Cru – Clos des Ruchottes – 2007. Silky, sweet fruit with pepper and lovely spice highlights. The texture, balance and power have all the hallmarks of a great wine! Despite the powerful fruit, this is elegant, refined and very long. A great wine!

Mommessin – Clos de Tart – Grand Cru – 2008. Pepper, spice and cinnamon come to the fore here. Superb length and balance combine with a silky texture to make this a stunning wine. (From Magnum).

Mongeard Mugneret – Clos de Vougeot – Grand Cru – 2005. Leaner and more structured than the Clos de Tart, this is still youthful, long, fine and powerful. There are cherry fruit notes, while the finish fans out like the proverbial peacocks tail. A superb wine that is immensely long. (From Magnum).

Bordeaux and Dry Reds

From a food perspective, the roast pork that accompanied the bigger reds was spectacular. The crispy skin combined beautifully with the succulent meat. There were Asian cues to the preparation with galangal being an integral part of the seasoning.

In many respects, this dish stole the show!

Chateau Léoville Las Cases – St Julien – 2001. A brilliant wine, though the fruit is wrapped up in a very structured cloak. The tannins are firm, though very fine, while the supple oak complements the fruit perfectly. A powerful wine that will last for years, yet is a joy to drink now. (From Magnum).

Chateau Cos d’Estournel – St Julien – 2000. This is a great wine. The fruit is sweeter than the Las Cases (perhaps reflecting the year), though the wine is still very powerful. Wonderful length and texture, the fruit framed by very fine tannins. A complete wine. (From Magnum).

Chateau Leoville Barton – St Julien – 2000. Another stunning effort. This wine is silky and supple, with wonderful tannin and oak management. The most structured of the three St Juliens, this is masculine and very youthful. (From Magnum).

Joseph Phelps  – Eisele Vineyard  – Cabernet Sauvignon – 1986. Perhaps more than any wine here, the Phelps polarised the group. Spectacular fruit quality and power, but the wine initially appeared a little rustic and old fashioned courtesy of a touch of Brettanomyces. Certainly evolved in the glass and improved significantly as it opened up. (From Magnum).

J L Chave – Hermitage – 1983. This wine is totally, seductive, elegant and fully mature. The palate is defined by its finesse and length, the acidity providing drive right through to the close. From a drinking point of view, this wine was my favourite of the reds! (From Magnum).

Finally

At the end of such a spectacular lunch and with plenty of red wine still on the table, we finished with a selection of cheeses. An excellent way to end a memorable day.

Franck Bonville – Champagne – Blanc de Blanc – 2006. A superb way to end the meal, the freshness, balance and power left the palate refreshed (although it did not really refresh my mind at this point!)

 

New Release Whites

Reviewed: 23rd May 2013

The panel looked at a bracket of chardonnays, as well as a selection of aromatic white wines for this tasting. In many ways, the highlight of the tasting was the arneis from Patritti. A distinctive wine of real charm.

For me, the wine of the tasting was the Singlefile Chardonnay, followed by the Swings and Roundabouts. Both very modern and showing excellent handling.

The final bracket was pinot gris/pinot grigio. You might ask what is the difference. As it turns out, there is no difference. It is the same grape, but coming from different regions. Gris from France and grigio from Italy. Traditionally, the styles have been quite different. Gris is made in a fresher, more aromatic style whereas grigio has been made in a dry/neutral style with food being a key consideration.

  • Tasted:        14 wines
  • Reviewed:    6 Wines

Reviewed

Singlefile – Chardonnay – 2011 (18). Subtle minerals, curry leaf and creamy oak compliments the high quality fruit. The palate is restrained, yet the fruit builds and develops. The finish is persistent, long and supple, the oak just sitting over the fruit initially, but settling back with air to add texture and structure. Tight and lean, this will be even better with 3 – 4 years under its belt. Demonstrates excellent winemaking. From Denmark.

Swings & Roundabouts – Chardonnay – Backyard Stories – 2012 (17.5). This has a lovely nose that combines white peach and creamy, mealy notes with cashew nut complexity. On the palate there is excellent fruit characters and decent complexity courtesy of the slick winemaking. There is a seam of grapefruit running right through to the finish, leaving the palate refreshed and ready for another sip. The lovely mouth-feel and real length makes this a joy now or in 3 – 4 years. A leaner, modern style.

Patritti – Arneis – 2012 (17.2). This wine was a real surprise. It starts of quite neutral, dry and savoury, but really built to show a complex array of flavours including apricot, orange peel and perfume. The finish is long and textural. This is an interesting wine possessing real charm. Ideally suited to food, the neutral nature of the wine will work a treat with some pasta or even white fleshed fish. From the Adelaide Hills.

Grant Burge – Pinot Gris – East Argyle – 2012 (17). Quite a creamy nose with some density and possibly a little barrel ferment characters. There is a degree of phenolic richness and viscosity on the palate and there is excellent length, smart acidity and a lovely citrus tang on the finish. This is an excellent drink alone or one to partner with lighter Asian food. True to the “gris” style.

Yalumba – Chardonnay – Y Series – Unwooded – 2012 (16.8). Aromatic and vibrant on both the nose and the palate. There are savoury, stone fruit characters, lemony acid and hints of honeysuckle and spice. A smart little wine that would make an excellent SSB alternative.

Yerring Station – Chardonnay – Village – 2011 (16.8). Quite Chablis like. This has a complex nose that has curry leaf, minerality, nuttiness and subtle stone fruit. The palate is tight and restrained, appearing relatively simple at first, as the lemony acidity and creamy oak suppress the fruit. This wine needs a few years for the fruit to uncoil and express itself.  Reflective of the cool vintage and an enjoyable wine.

Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay

Art Series Chardonnay – Pre-Release Tasting

Reviewed: 10th May 2013

Leeuwin Estate rightly has a reputation for producing one of Australia’s top few Chardonnays. When you combine the inherent quality with an unrivalled ability to age, I rate it as the country’s best.

As with almost all Leeuwin Estate wines, the chardonnay is held back in the cellar to allow it to come together before being released. This means that at a time when many wineries are selling their 2012 whites, we gathered to try Leeuwin Estate’s 2010 Chardonnay that is about to be released.

Given the quality, it is not surprising that the chardonnay gets the Rolls Royce treatment. The wine typically sees 100% new oak and great pains are taken to ensure that the oak is of the highest quality. Currently, the winery is using over 20 different types of oak barrels, supplied by a variety of coopers.

Each year, the composition of oak changes subtly as the winery adjusts the makeup to take advantage of the best coopers. In most years, there is no malo-lactic fermentation, the acidity is controlled in the vineyard via canopy management and astute grape harvesting. The vines that produce fruit for the Art Series Chardonnay are now 40 years old and are really in their prime.

Paul Atwood (Senior Winemaker) and Simone Horgan (Joint CEO) took the opportunity to show a mini-vertical of the Art Series Chardonnay, as well as a cross-section of current and upcoming releases from their stable of red wines. It has been an overriding aim of the winery to bring the quality of the reds up to that of the Chardonnay. The quality of the reds tasted suggests that they have succeeded admirably.

Finally, Paul gave me an overview of the 2013 vintage. The growing season started off with a burst of hot weather, giving wine-makers some concerns as to how balanced the fruit would be as it ripened. Later in the growing season however, the weather cooled considerably, allowing the fruit to finish ripening at a much slower pace. This meant that the grapes were able to develop excellent flavour profiles, without getting too high in sugar. It also allowed the grapes to retain excellent natural acidity.

The 2013 Riesling has just been blended and, apparently, the results are very good. The fruit was able to be taken off the vine quite early, with very balanced juice. Paul’s view is that 2013 will be a great year for their reds. The cool finish to the season allowed the fruit to develop excellent depth of flavours. The last cabernet was only picked in mid-April. Importantly, the chardonnay had excellent levels of acidity at harvest.

And the verdict?

The 2010 Art Series Chardonnay is the greatest Australian chardonnay I have ever tasted and is the equal of the greatest White Burgundies. The 2005 is another stunning wine that is just starting to hit its peak. The Prelude chardonnay is worth a mention given the excellent quality. Many wineries would be pleased have this as their premium wine!

Leeuwin Estate can quite rightly claim to be one of the finest wineries in Australia. It is the quality across the entire range that sets it apart from most.

Reviewed

Leeuwin Estate  – Riesling – Art Series – 2005 (18). This is remarkably fresh, with lime juice, minerals and gentle floral aromas. It has started to develop some toasty characters and just a touch of oiliness. The palate is quite rich and textured, with a touch of phenolic richness adding to the tasting. There is also a touch of nutty fruit to close. This is drinking superbly now, but will hold for a number of years. Paul suggests that the location of the vineyard, which sits in a valley, results in a cooler micro-climate compared to some of the other wineries in the region, allowing the riesling to flourish.

Leeuwin Estate  – Riesling – Art Series – 2012 (17.5- 18). Fragrant talc, minerals and subtle citrus characters on the nose. Like most Leeuwin rieslings that I have tried, this is quite closed and tight now, guaranteeing mid-term aging. The palate is true to the house style, with quite rich, powerful fruit complemented by a touch of phenolic richness. Quite different in style to those from the Great Southern, this needs a little time to settle and express itself.

Leeuwin Estate  – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Art Series – 2010 (18+). This leads off with wine-making influences resulting from barrel fermentation and regular lees stirring. The wine is complex, savoury, dense and textured. The grassy fruit characters really make their presence felt on the palate. There is bright, lemony acid and creamy, subtle oak on a palate that is very long and refined. The semillon adds depth to the palate with lovely citrus fruit. This makes many White Bordeaux’s look quite ordinary.

Leeuwin Estate  – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Art Series – 2011 (17.5-18). Very fresh compared to the 2010. The palate is much more linear and quite lean at first, suggesting that an extra year or two in bottle will really help. Opens to show lovely floral fruit on both the nose and palate in a pretty package. The oak influence on the palate is very subtle and fine, and the lemony acid carries the finish. The wine sees 11 months in barrel with weekly lees stirring. 20% of the oak is new. Given the development of the 2010, this is likely to improve for 5 years and may hold for much longer.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Prelude – 2012 (18). Very pretty fruit that is quite forward and floral on the nose. The palate is surprisingly powerful and intense, balancing peach like fruit characters with minerals, flint, match-strike and creamy oak. There is excellent length and mouth-feel and the fruit flavours linger. This is drinking remarkably well now, but should age for several years if you can resist. Sees 40% new oak, the remainder being second use.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2002 (N.R.). Developing, but still fresh. This was quite subdued on the nose, but opened with air. The palate is very powerful, with grapefruit followed by lovely stone-fruit and powerful minerality.  This gives way to a rich buttery finish. Delicious now.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2005 (18.7). Wow! This is lovely. An absolutely superb wine of great power and intensity, yet this has elegance and finesse. Superb length of flavours on a palate that is seamless and complete. There is still vibrant acidity that will ensure a very long life and the palate evolves for some time. A great wine from a perfect vintage.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2006 (17.9). This is quite different to the 2005, with a leaner fruit profile. The oak is just a little bit toastier than the 2005 and the palate more developed. A lovely wine that has excellent length and powerful fruit. For me, I would drink the 2006 now while waiting for the 05.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2009 (18/18.5). Restrained fruit that is subtle and refined showing hints of minerals, citrus and stone-fruit. There is still the tremendous power to the fruit that I have come to expect, but this is still quite tightly coiled and shy. With time though, this will unwind and develop into a superb wine. The creamy, tight, fine oak provides a seamless backdrop to the pristine fruit. The potential is evident. A sleeper.

Leeuwin Estate  – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2010 (18.9). This wine screams class right from the outset. So where to begin? The nose is tight, fine, reserved, elegant and creamy, with stone-fruit (nectarine) and citrus highlights. The palate is incredibly long, supple and refined, with the fruit characters evident, but not obvious. There is a subtly to this wine that is disarming, given the amazing length and intensity of the fruit. This is a truly great wine that needs 5 years to open up and will last for 15 years.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2010 (18). Vibrant red fruits on the nose. The palate has blackcurrant, spice, tobacco leaf and subtle, cedary oak. There are even hints of licorice and the texture is excellent. This really builds in the glass and shows excellent structure, with the tannins providing a textural backdrop to the quality fruit. Delicious now, but will age for 5 – 10 years.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2008 (18.3).  Opens with aromas of mint, gentle eucalypt, spice and a touch of cedary oak. The palate has red and blackcurrant fruit of tremendous depth and intensity. The power is evident, but like the chardonnay, this is tight and restrained, needing time to really show its best. There is almost a touch of cassis, but this complements the berry characters rather than dominates them. The cabernet comes from unirrigated, 40 year old vines. Significant attention is given to canopy management to ensure ripeness without losing elegance.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2009 (18.5). This is an interesting contrast to the 2010. This is all about structure and texture, rather than overt fruit flavours. The balance is excellent, with the fruit flavours hidden in the structure. Nothing out of place, but this is a reserved wine built for the long hall. In many ways, this is very much like fine Bordeaux. Superb.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2010 (18/18.5). Beautiful ripe fruit on the nose. The palate is deliciously juicy, with remarkably concentrated fruit sitting under the youthful exuberance. The balance is spot on, but at this early stage of its life, the acid sits on top of the fruit on the finish. The oak is very fine and supple providing excellent texture without adding obvious flavour. Will be superb.

Leeuwin Estate  – Cabernet Sauvignon – Art Series – 2011 (18 – 18.5). The nose on this is amazing. It is an absolutely complete package. There is ripe fruit, but you can almost smell the textural components that add complexity. The palate is balanced, fine, refined and delicious. This is remarkably approachable now, so many will not get to see how this will develop. Start saving, as this will not be released for a year or two.

Leeuwin Estate  – Shiraz – Art Series – 2010 (18+). Closed and tight, reflecting the power and balance that the 2010 wines from Leeuwin are all showing. Pepper and spice on a palate that is tight and structured, with clever oak use. The finish is almost chewy but still supple and very long. A wine of power but in a cooler climate package. Not to be underestimated. (The vines for this were planted in 1997).

 

 

Chardonnay & Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc

Reviewed 18 June 2011

The chardonnay bracket was one of the strongest that the panel can remember. The semillon and SB wines were also pretty smart. All in all, one of the more memorable tastings with a higher than usual success rate.

Highlights for me were the Mt Horricks semillon and many of the chardonnays. If I had to pick one, it would be the Brookland Valley. Perhaps this is not quite as great as the Leeuwin, Heytsebury and Xanadu, but it is a sheer joy to drink now and over the next five years.

Reviewed

Chardonnay

Leeuwin Estate – Chardonnay – Art Series – 2008 (18/18.7). Remarkably similar to a Sauzet Puligny Montrachet that I was lucky enough to drink last weekend. Very restrained and tight, though the acid is exhilarating. Hints of stonefruit to what is a smart wine. Lots of minerals and textural components to close, including some very fine oak tannins. After one day, this started to get some flesh on the mid palate. After two, it showed a treat. As with all Leeuwin Estate chardonnays, this will age well. Indeed, this wine demands to be cellared for at least 5 – 10 years to even approach its peak.

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytsebury – 2009. (18 – 18.5). Mineral, slate and a touch of match strike. Curry leaf, vanillin oak and creamy texture on the palate. A wine that has had all the treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging, malo-lactic fermentation). Powerful and complex, this is a wine with great length. The powerful fruit makes this a great drink now or over the next 5 years.

Brookland Valley – Chardonnay – 2009 (18.3). A touch more nervous energy in this wine. Superb quality fruit and excellent wine-making have combined to make a wine of finesse and elegance. The fruit has intensity and power, but this is held in check by the tight knit oak and pineapple acidity. A seamless palate with tremendous length. This received extra marks for being an excellent drink!

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2010 (18+). Closest in style to the Leeuwin Estate. Curry leaf, flint and mineral notes on the nose with pineapple undertones. The palate is lovely, with intense fruit, seamless oak and a silky palate. The balance here is the key. There is an undercurrent of stonefruit on a wine that is complex and well worked. Needs 5 years to show its best.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2010 (18). A superb nose that is complex, yet full of life. Creamy, peachy fruit, with just a hint of curry leaf that signals quality. Lemony oak dominates the fruit on the palate, but this is a very tight and fresh wine. Look for grapefruit and pineapple with citrus acid to close. Give it a few years to watch it blossom as this became quite expressive as it opened.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.5). Restrained and dumb at present. A good wine, with no rough edges, just lacks the excitement of the Estate. Good length and quality fruit. Light, fresh and elegant, with granny smith texture on a very long palate. A well made wine that is tight and lean in a contemporary style.

Forester – Chardonnay – 2010 (17.7). Closed and tight, yet there is no questioning the quality of this wine. Lemony fruit with hints of sherbet and tropical fruit. The oak is subtle and adds finesse to the close. Good drinking without being over the top, this wine held its own in a big bracket!

S/SB

Mount Horricks – Semillon – 2010 (17.7). Creamy and quite delicious. Honey, vanilla and lemony fruit, with a hint of crème caramel. On the palate, this is a powerful wine that has been given royal treatment (barrel Ferment, lees stirring, oak aging). Creamy and textured, with lovely lemony fruit that runs to the end of the palate.

Carpe Diem – Sauvignon Blanc – Schiaffo – 2010 (17). A very interesting wine that is not your typical Margaret River SB. More golden in colour, this has lanolin and vanillin oak notes to open. Lemony and tight, the palate is near seamless. Slight char to the oak is apparent on the finish. A quality wine that needs a year or two to settle down. Try instead of chardonnay.

Stella Bella – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (17). Quite pungent fruit on the nose reflecting the cooler southern end of the Margaret River region. Lychee, passionfruit, lantana and tropical notes on the nose. Plenty of acid on the palate with good length and intensity. Smart.

Willow Bridge – Sauvignon Blanc – Fume – 2010 (17+). As the name suggests, made in a different style to most Australian SBs. This has seen 8 months in oak. Complex nose and palate that has creamy lees characters and a touch of toast from the oak. Has a passing resemblance to White Bordeaux. An interesting wine that is worth trying.

Drakesbrook – Sauvignon Blanc – 2010 (16.8). A touch more creamy than some, which is suggestive of some lees contact. (None mentioned on the label). The palate is bright, grassy and zesty, with good mouth-feel and length. An approachable wine that is good current drinking.

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2010 (16.8). A fairly mainstream example of this blend. Starts of quite closed, but develops grassy/tropical notes with air. Lemon brullee on the palate. Very tight and a touch austere right now, this is a wine that could do with a year in bottle to settle down. Not overly complex, but nice zesty lemon fruit, good length and refreshing acidity.

Riesling and Chardonnay

12 November 2010

Troy Denham, the State Manager for Fours Seasons Fine Wines, was keen to put a couple of wines from their excellent portfolio into our masked tasting to see how they performed. It was with this in mind that we looked at several brackets of riesling, and a bracket of chardonnays. There were a couple of real stars in the tasting, so the wines had their work cut out.

It was no surprise that the Grossett rieslings did well, they are the benchmark for Australian rieslings. That the 2010 wines from Xabregas showed so well was impressive. Importantly, wines like the Leasingham Bin 7 do not show well in these tastings. The firm acidity makes them hard work now but guarantees a 20 year cellaring future.

The highlight of the chardonnay bracket was the contrast between the two wines from Xanadu. The Stevens Road was impressive in all respects. The sheer weight of fruit combined with turbo-charged wine-making inputs makes this a wine that must be noticed. By comparison, the Reserve was superbly balanced, making it a joy to drink!

Finally, Angove has done it again with their Butterfly Ridge which retails for $7. It is a sound wine that drinks well.

Reviewed

Riesling

Grossett – Riesling – Polish Hill – 2010 (18.7). Very citrusy nose. Lemon and lime juice with a touch of curd. A powerful wine, this has spectacular line and length. The length really is incredible and the fruit quality impeccable. The palate is dominated by steely fruit and limey acidity. This is tight and quite austere, but will be a superstar.

Grossett – Riesling – Springvale – 2010 (18.5). This has everything! There is floral fruit laid over minerals and slate. Passionfruit, lime and even a touch of lavender. The palate is fresh and vibrant. The abundant acid is remarkably soft and allows the fruit to flourish. This will live for many years, but is relatively approachable now.

Xabregas – Riesling – X – Spencer Road – 2010 (18.5). Extraordinarily pale and almost with a touch of spritz. Quite Germanic in a kabinet style really, with lovely aromatics. This is extraordinarily fine and delicate, yet there is immense power behind the wine. If there is a hint of sweetness, the acid balances the wine beautifully.

Cherubino – Riesling – The Yard – Pannoo Vineyard – 2010 (18.3). Reserved, with a steely backbone. There is musk, sherbet and lime juice acidity that frames the finish. There is a touch of talc on the back palate. The length is impressive and this just needs time to flourish.

Lucien Albrecht – Riesling – Reserve – 2009 (18). Lovely floral/aromatic nose not dissimilar to gwertztraminer. Really seductive with lime juice and musk, the fruit characters carry through on an impressive finish that is rich and textured.

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongurup – 2010 (17.9). Again, shy. This is high in acid, but it is not aggressive. There is lemony fruit, but it is struggling to make its presence felt. This opens and gets really juicy. Very fine wine.

Xabregas – Riesling – 2010 (17.8) Floral and sweet fruit characters. This is textured, viscous and long. The obvious residual sugar carries the palate and the acid keeps the balance. Drink on a warm afternoon by itself.

Plantaganet – Riesling – 2009 (17.7). Much rounder, even a touch creamy. Again more to the steely side, but with some passionfruit and citrus notes coming through. The finish is very long, with lemony acidity providing the length. Sound wine. Powdery, fine, more modern and greater length.

Xabregas – Riesling – Show Reserve – 2009 (17.5). Minerals to the fore. Steely, with a touch of lanolin. Piercing acidity but balanced. Long and fine finish, but really needs time. 10 yrs+

Howard Park – Riesling – Museum Release – 2006 (17.4). Some developed characters with a touch of toast and just a hint of kerosene, (A good thing). Just starting to hit its drinking window, the developed toasty notes are balanced by fine acidity. Good drinking.

Leasingham – Riesling – Bin 7 – 2009 (17.3+). Lemony fruit, though the acid gets to me at the moment. There is good quality fruit, but it needs many years to emerge from the steely framework.

Boston Bay – Riesling – 2010 (17.1). Restrained, with textured and structural components more obvious now. The palate is fine and well balanced, with lime and mineral components. Falls away on the finish a touch, but a good effort.

Angove – Riesling/Gwertztraminer – Butterfly Ridge – 2010 (16.5). Floral and aromatic, there is musk, lychee and passionfruit. The palate is viscous and textured but the acid helps avoid the finish becoming cloying (just). At $7,this is another screaming bargain.

Talisman – Riesling – 2009 (16). Much more steely and racy, this has good length, though it is not so complex.

Chardonnay

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Reserve – 2009 (18.5). Quite burgundian nose, with almond meal and minerals combined with well judged oak. The palate has lovely fresh acidity and there is a touch of citrus and stonefruit characters to finish. Really subtle oak and well integrated. Texture is very good. The balance of this wine is a highlight and after a day or two sitting open on the tasting bench, this really blossomed.

Xanadu – Chardonnay – Stevens Road – 2009 (18.4). This is BIG! Well made wine, with all wine-makers fingerprints evident. There are creamy textural components on the nose, along with mealy cashew and almond notes and a gentle creaminess. The intensity of the fruit on the palate is outstanding, thought the piercing acidity is a touch dominant now. There is pineapple fruit on the palate and textural wine-maker’s inputs. Great length and a very textured finish, with the barrel ferment, lees and oak components all adding to the finish. This has more of everything and is for lovers of big, (but not blowsy) chardonnay.

Clairault – Chardonnay – Estate – 2008 (17.4). This has some toasty oak notes to open. The palate is long and very closed, with the supple oak dominating the finish. I would like to see this again in 6 months to see where it is going.

Clairault – Chardonnay – 2009 (17.2). Dumb. This is a very minerally wine with textural wine-makers inputs. Reserved and tight, this needs a few years to open up. There is some fresh peachy fruit, but this is just developing.

Giant Steps – 2011 Release

Reviewed: 17 September 2012

Giants Steps have been taking, well, giant steps in their pursuit of making wines that reflect the place in which the grapes are grown. With access to several excellent vineyards in the Yarra Valley, Steve Flamsteed has produced a superb range of wines that speak of the place where they were grown.

The current release of chardonnays and pinot noirs are from the 2011 vintage. This was a very cold and wet vintage that presented numerous challenges in the vineyard and winery. Properly managed, it is clear that the vintage has produced some excellent wines, albeit in a finer, more elegant style to the 2010s. I expect that in the longer term, the 2011’s from Giant Steps will be fantastic.

The Chardonnays saw 20% new oak, plenty of lees stirring and, in 2011, had only partial malo-lactic fermentation.They are lean and elegant. The pinots are feminine, subtle and supple. They are light bodied now, but experience has shown that with 5 – 10 years in the bottle, these will flesh out and build depth. Quantities of all wines are very limited, so I suggest trying your favourite bottle shop soon.

N.B. This was not a blind tasting, so as usual, my points are for indication purposes only.

Reviewed

Giant Steps – Viognier – Mule – 2011 (17). Apricot and citrus aromas with hints of honey. The palate balances gentle viscosity and texture with fresh acidity that imbues the finish with real drive. Good length of flavour in a leaner style that works really well. Picked earlier to retain crispness, this is a good alternative to sauvignon blanc.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8). Really creamy and fine, with cashew nut complexity and a lovely mineral core. Hints of lanolin over elegant melon fruit. Stone-fruit on the finish combines with texturing oak and fine acidity to confer excellent length. An elegant wine that will take a few years in the cellar.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Tarraford Vineyard – 2011 (18.2). Perhaps the most complete of the three 2011 chardonnays. On the nose there is nutty minerality, whilst the fruit on the palate has real thrust and drive. The balance and length are highlights. The fine minerality is a key component to the finish while the oak and lees characters are a mere whisper on the finish. An excellent wine of real class, this will be even better in 3 – 5 years.

Giant Steps – Chardonnay – Arthurs Creek Vineyard – 2011 (17.5). Slightly richer fruit on the nose. Again, there is lovely creamy notes over delicate fruit aromas. The palate is more forward with strong minerality over subtle fruit. The winemaking influences are less obvious, making this better drinking today. The length is a standout. This should age well also.

Giant Steps – Sangiovese – Mule – 2010 (17). Fresh and vibrant fruit. Has authentic characters, but a degree of fleshiness courtesy its new world origins. Good length and juicy fruit make this a good drink now.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Sexton Vineyard – 2011 (17.8+). Light strawberry hue reflecting the vintage conditions. With cherry and subtle strawberry and spice aromas, this is quite perfumed and evolves in the glass. The palate is firm and austere right now, but the fruit and tannins have an attractive degree of ripeness. An elegant, feminine wine that finishes with tarry complexity. The structure, mouth-feel and length are excellent and the finish is slightly chewy. This really needs a year or two to settle down and open up.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Gladysdale Vineyard – 2011 (18). If anything, even lighter than the Sexton. Complex, pepper and spice, with precise textural components. Elegant fruit on the palate leads on to a textured finish. This really is very long and fine. Subtle and supple, this is very feminine, but still has a degree of power to the fruit. Needs a few years to flesh out, but patience will be rewarded. Burgundian in style.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2011 (18.5). Delicate colour here. More intensity to the fruit on the nose, with more overt cherry aromas on display. This is a lovely wine in the mouth! The texture and mouth-feel are superb. The fruit is remarkably intense on the finish for such a delicate wine and the length is notable. Evolves and builds with air, developing a chewy texture from ripe, though firm tannins and supple oak. Good now, but even better in 5 years.

Giant Steps – Pinot Noir – Applejack – 2010 (18). Wow, the increased fruit intensity and density comes as a shock after the refined and elegant 2011. Spice and smoky notes on the nose over dense red fruits. Much richer in the mouth than the 2010, with firmer tannins on the chewy, textured finish. Good length, but lacks the ultimate balance of the 2011.

Giant Steps – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Harry’s Monster – 2010 (18-18.5). With all the hype about pinot, it is easy to forget just how good Yarra Valley cabernet can be. The wine is closed, but hints at its potential. The fruit is ripe, taut, dense, very finely structured and superbly long. Textured, this has fine tannins and the quality oak has been expertly managed. Ripe tannins are a highlight. Will live for a long time.