Author Archives: Weinman on Wine

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 18^th November 2015

Wines made with Pinot Noir are some of the most challenging to make. That said, there are a few winemakers in Australia who have mastered the art, including the likes of Phillip Jones at Bass Philip and Mac Forbes.

Rollo Crittenden produced an excellent range of wines in 2012, from a vintage that was widely acclaimed across the region. The release of the 2013/2014 wines presented an excellent opportunity to get a further glimpse at how the wines at Crittenden Estate are progressing.

Barrel Hall at Crittenden Estate*

What struck me about all the wines reviewed was their drinkability. From the entry level Geppetto, to the powerful Zumma, there was an immediacy to the wines that was attractive and moreish. With the exception of the Geppetto, all the wines will benefits from a few years in bottle, but they are drinking well now.

Reviewed

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Geppetto – 2014. (17). A touch closed and subdued on the nose initially. The palate is refined and elegant, with pretty fruit balanced by fine tannins and supple oak. Cherry and menthol come to mind. Soft and supple, this is an uncomplicated wine that is good drinking. (RRP $24).

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Peninsula – 2014 (17.7). Whole bunch notes on the nose, over sour cherry fruit. The palate is taut and muscular, with fine tannins and texturing oak shutting down the fruit. Everything is in place, but this needs a year or two to hit its straps. ($34 from the Winery)

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – Kangerong – 2013 (17.8). A heady nose that combines perfume with fresh red berries and a jube-like lift. The palate is soft and plush, with soft tannins, quality oak and gentle acidity. Great drinking now. ($40 from the Winery).

Crittenden Estate – Pinot Noir – The Zumma – 2013 (18). Powerful, high toned fruit on the nose. The palate has dense fruit, with souring cherry and satsuma plum overtones. Slightly chewy tannins add textural oak adds interest. A serious wine that is drinking very well now, but will cellar for at least 5 years. ($57 from the Winery).

* Images courtesy of the Crittenden Estate Website: http://www.crittendenwines.com.au/

New Release

Barry Weinman: 10^th November 2015

There were a number of highlights across this week’s New Release tastings. From the precise and delicate Howard Park Riesling to the sheer power and intensity of the Pernot Belicard Puligny, there is something here for everyone. Having said that, none of the wines are exactly cheap.

The Pinots from Wither Hills are worthy of singling out for their diversity of styles. The Benmorven is pure and precise, whilst the Taylor River is funky and delicious.

Reviewed

Howard Park – Riesling – Porongorup – 2015 (18). Lovely fresh fruit on the nose, though in a restrained style. The palate is floral and aromatic, with refreshing acidity to close. A very fine wine, with lime juice over a core of Nashi pear. Excellent length and the minerality builds. (RRP $34).

Silvan Bzikot – Chardonnay – Bourgogne – Blanc – 2013 (17). A middle of the road style, where good quality fruit has been well handled, with little in the way of oak. Not overly intense or complicated, but a very enjoyable drink. The acidity really brings the palate together on the close. ($40 from Lamont’s Cottesloe).

Moss Wood – Pinot Noir – Wilyabrup – 2013 (17.8). A really interesting wine from a region not known for Pinot. Opens with ripe, succulent fruit over sweet vanillin notes. The palate is vibrant and delicious, with the fruit the main feature. Fragrant and elegant, this builds cherry notes with air. Finishes with refreshing acidity and fine tannins. (RRP $65).

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – Benmorven – 2011 (17.9). High fruit quality, made in a serious style. Dark, powerful fruit on the palate, with a touch of cocoa over plum and black cherry fruit. Fine, though persistent tannins underscore the quality of the fruit. The finish is long and fine, with supple tannins/structure. Enjoyable now, but will be better in 5 years.

Wither Hills – Pinot Noir – Taylor River – 2011 (17.7). Really interesting wine. The nose is packed with minerals and spice. There is even a curry-leaf aroma. The palate is supple and refined, with spicy red fruits over souring acidity and tannins. The fruit gets quite earthy and textured (perhaps a touch of Bret). The purists might object, but this is a wine full of character and my pick of the tasting to drink now.

Special Occasion Wines

Pernot Belicard – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 1er Cru – Les Perrieres – 2013 (18.5++). Fantastic power and intensity here. Pineapple, curry leaf, stone fruit, minerality and a touch of oak all express on the nose. The palate is powerful and precise, with the fruit characters carrying the length of the palate. Grapefruit-like acidity combines with minerals and hints of toast from the oak on the finish. Impressive. (Approx. $220).

Domaine Bzikot – Chardonnay – Puligny Montrachet – 2013 (18.3). Impressive fruit weight on the nose and palate. Powerful, intense and mouth-watering. Taut, razor-sharp acidity balances the rich fruit perfectly. Long and complex, this really needs a couple of years to fill out. (RRP $90)

Cloudburst

Barry Weinman: 4^th November 2015

Cloudburst may be the most famous winery you have never heard of. They might not be well known, but they are making some of the most expensive wines to come out of Margaret River.

The man behind the label is Will Berliner. Will hails from Mayne in the north-east of the USA, and has a varied background, most recently being a film-maker. Given the costs of establishing an operation like Cloudburst, Will was obviously successful.

Will’s connection to Australia, and wine in general is a relatively new phenomenon. Wills partner is Australian, and it was while he was on a holiday that he fell in love with Australia, and Margaret River in particular.

Photo Courtesy of Cloudburst Winery

After a few years of looking for the right location, the family relocated to Margaret River as a lifestyle decision, unrelated to wine. The location of the former cattle property clinched the deal, and the Berliners ended up with 100 hectares of farmland, which included 40 hectares of native bush.

Starting with stripped pasture, Will gradually built up the soil health, using organic and biodynamic principles.

The initial plan was to grow avocados but logistical challenges led to planting grapes, given the clearly evident affinity of the region to vines.

As a non-wine drinker, Will started researching and got completely hooked, taking an almost spiritual approach to the vineyard and wine. Will speaks with reverence on the establishment of the vineyard, as well as how he learned from others in the region.

This is a small operation. There are currently 1.2 hectares under vine, of which 0.5 hectares are in production! The first vines were planted in 2005, closely planted in short rows and small blocks. The first vintage was in 2010, with the wines being made at Woodlands, with the oversight of Stuart Watson.

Due to the family’s connections to the USA, the wines ended up on the wine lists of some of New York’s finest restaurants, which may go some way to explaining why the wines are the most expensive. It is only now that a local distributor has been appointed (The Drink Well Philosophy).

Photos Courtesy of Cloudburst winery

Reviewed

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2014. Very refined and elegant with hints of perfume and lanolin. The pristine fruit is the primary focus. The palate has excellent structure, with lemon, grapefruit and a touch of zest. The finish is almost chewy and textural. The acid is really polished and fine.

Cloudburst – Chardonnay – 2013. More complex and developed on the nose than the 2014, this is really attractive and interesting. A touch linear in the mouth initially, but the finish really fleshes out, showing grapefruit, and a touch of phenolic richness. Again, the acid is really fine, supporting the fruit, and helping to integrate the near seamless palate. Lemony fruit to close.

Cloudburst – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2013. Very complex and deep smelling. Menthol, blackcurrant and shades of eucalypt all meld into an alluring nose. The palate is fine and linear, with a clear minerality running from front to back. There is an almost graphite-like textural component. The supple acid and tannins combine with the fine-grained French oak to suppress the fruit somewhat on the finish. Give it some air or 5 – 10 years in the cellar. Bordeaux-like. 1,688 bottles made.

Cloudburst – Cabernet Sauvignon – 2012. Really interesting nose, with the minerality that is all about white pepper and Australian mountain pepper. This gives way to a core of ripe fruit. A lovely expression of Margaret River Cabernet. Fine and taut, with blackberry fruit over supple spice. The slightly chewy tannins add to the overall package, making this an excellent drink now or in 10 years.

Cloudburst – Malbec – 2013. Excellent purity of fruit on the nose. The palate shows ripe red fruits, plum, spice and textural tannins. Opens up to show mint, menthol and redcurrant that is plump and ripe, with a cedary oak lift. A succulent, delicious wine that is drinking brilliantly now. 4% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Cloudburst – Malbec – 2012. More restrained. Fine, elegant, balanced. Silky and near seamless. The oak and tannins add texture and vibrancy to the finish, with fine acids carrying the finish. Will cellar well for a decade or more, but is delicious now. Becomes quite chewy with air. 422 Bottles made

Riverland Clonal Project

Barry Weinman: 1^st November 2015

The Riverland Clonal Project has set out to identify the grapevine clones that are most suitable for the Riverland. The project is trying to identify vines that produce high quality wines efficiently. Factors include:

Water efficiency
Crop size and consistency
Grape/wine quality
Commercial viability

Photo courtesy of the RVTG

Background

The Riverland Clonal Project is run by the Riverland Viticultural Technical Group (RVTG), a sub-committee of Riverland Wine. The RVTG includes growers, winery representatives and technical members who collaborate on a variety of projects aimed at benefiting the region.

The Program is funded by Wine Australia as part of the Regional Extension Program.

The initial vines were planted 5 years ago, primarily covering Chardonnay, Merlot, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon. In total 96 clones were planted, all on the same rootstock. The project has since expanded to include other varieties that may be particularly suited to the warm, dry conditions of the Riverland.

At first glance, Chardonnay might seem like an interesting choice for what is a very warm region. It is worth highlighting that the Riverland produces 40^% of Australia’s Chardonnay.

Interestingly, the Riverland is also the biggest producer of organic wine in Australia, which is providing a much-needed boost in profitability for some growers, given that the returns can be as much as 4 times that of grapes grown non-organically.

Water

Water conservation is a priority for the region. The cost of irrigation strips any profitability out of production for many growers. According to the RVTG:

Water use differences are more influenced by the root-stocks rather than the clones. Most of the recent redevelopment has been on water efficient root-stocks such as Ramsey and Ruggeri 140. When these vines are well managed, the vigour is controlled and high quality wines can be produced with little water.

Almost all vineyards in the Riverland are now irrigated with drip irrigation, and use soil moisture monitoring to ensure that the water use efficiency is as high as it can possibly get.

Photo courtesy of the RVTG

Results

Three years ago, the project started to produce wines from the various clones to look at the results. The wines were all made at a contract winery in Victoria (DPI) in 50kg parcels. For each grape variety, all fruit was treated in the same way. With Chardonnay for example, the grapes were picked at 13.5% Baume, fermented in stainless steel and saw no oak.

Going forward, the winemaking will be brought in-house, to be made by Melanie Kargas, winemaker for the RVTG. Picking times will be refined to bring down the level of alcohol and focus on purity of fruit. This would make the test wines more representative of where the market is going.

At this early stage, what is clear is that the different clones produce very different profile wines. This will help winemakers to select clones that best complement the style of wine that they are striving to produce.

The one variety that really stands out is Merlot, with broad recognition that some of the test clones are superior to those that are used commercially in the region.

Chardonnay

Vintage 2015

The wines tried showed a remarkable diversity in style, from restrained and austere, to rich and expansive. Clearly the Riverland is capable of producing quality Chardonnay with careful clonal selection.

Clone 96: Floral notes, but with a core of minerality. The palate is rich and expansive, showing lemon, melon and grapefruit acidity, with a creamy finish.

Clone 95. Muted, tight fruit on the nose. The palate is all pineapple and citrus, but the finish is quite muted.

Clone 76 AR. Creamy, peach-like fruit on the nose. Big, bold flavours in the stone fruit spectrum, with lovely lemony acidity.

ENTAV 809 AR. Pretty, floral fruit that justifies the “Muscat” tag. Continues on the palate with a mouth-feel and acid that is not dissimilar to Sauvignon Blanc. Bright acidity.

Clone 548. A very balanced profile, with floral fruit leading to grapefruit and melon. Sits very much in the middle ground.

ENTAV 1066. Peach, citrus, nectarine, grapefruit, melon. There is a lot going on here and the drive on the finish is noteworthy.

Merlot

All grapes were picked at 13.8 Baume, received minimal skin contact and no oak. Acid was adjusted to 3.3pH in all wines and no malolactic fermentation was allowed due to the small batch size.

A couple of the wines here came across as a little warm. Melanie will look to adjust the Baume and introduce malolactic fermentation in subsequent years, to get a better idea of how each clone is performing.

D3V14. Plump and plummy fruit on the nose, with herbal, menthol and red berry characters. Gritty tannins carry the fruit nicely. Trying this, it is easy to understand why Merlot is so popular with some consumers.

8R. Less floral and more subdued than D3V14. Some graphite and tar notes add interest. The palate is a little overcooked, but the structure is noteworthy. A more refined/balanced wine with cassis and leafy notes.

ENTAV 181. Pretty fruit. Perfumed, yet mineral like, with decent structure and mouth-feel. A very balanced wine that will stand-alone well.

Q45-14. Decent concentration and depth to the fruit on the nose. Pretty red fruits on the palate, yet with excellent structure. Savoury, though the herbal tannins are a little green.

ISV F6V4. Muted, lacks vibrancy or depth.

3 Italy. Pure, varietal fruit with clarity and vibrancy. Red currant and blueberry fruit, with fine tannins. A pretty wine that suffers from being a little over-ripe.

Non-Mainstream Varieties.

Yalumba – Vermentino – 2014. Vibrant aromas with a savoury edge. Precise fruit that, whilst not overly concentrated, is pretty and satisfying. The pithy, drying finish adds to the charm. Very refreshing.

Unico Zelo – Fiano – 2015. Lovely Muscat-like fruit, with sherbet and delicate spice. The palate is vibrant and textured. Perfumed fruit continues on the palate, with musk-like notes and Turkish Delight. A delightful drink. (Basket pressed, wild ferment – at temperatures up to 40 degrees. Irrigation turned off at flowering, and no acid adjustment made).

Amato Vino – Bele – 2015. Really savoury with an almost saline lift to the nose. This is really interesting. Spice, with brine-like characters. This is a savoury, complex wine that will partner richer food dishes really well.

Whistling Kite – Montepulciano – 2014. Lovely cherry fruit, with savoury tar and spice. The palate is really structured and the tannins prodigious, but very fine. Will be a treat with a steak now, but a few years will see this open up nicely.

Cirami – Lagrein – 2014. Almost Shiraz-like, with dark plum-like fruit on both the nose and palate. This is a dense, powerful wine that will appeal to those who like a big red. Bring on a decent steak.

Champagne – Master Class

Barry Weinman: 26^th October 2016

The Comité Interprofessionnel Du Vin De Champagne (CIVC) is the trade association that represents both grape growers, and producers of Champagne. The CIVC has two major roles:

Control of quality. This includes grape yields, permitted varieties, vineyard designations, dosage etc.
The CICV has a big role in promoting the “special” qualities of Champagne to the media and the wider public.

There are a number of activities run to support this, including the Champagne awards and a number of tastings.

I attended the Perth leg of their 2015 Champagne – Master Class series. Three previous Champagne award winners were on hand to give insightful background on the wines, as well as thoughts on the wines themselves.

The tasting was cleverly designed to showcase the variety of styles that are produced in the Champagne region. One way to increase demand is to demonstrate that Champagne has a role beyond an aperitif, and is able to be consumed throughout a meal.

It was made mention that Champagne must surely be the most versatile wine, given that there are styles to suit all occasions.

I agree with this in theory, but for me, Champagne is about sharing with friends at the start of a gathering. I can think of no other wine that so perfectly sets the mood for the rest of the evening (or breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea).

Reviewed

Deutz – Brut – NV. (18). A fine, elegant nose that has poise. There is a creamy note, with only gentle lees aromas. Apple and lemon zest comes to mind on the palate. Quite delicate red fruits linger on a linear palate. Owned by Louis Roederer, the base wine is from the 2010 vintage.

Bruno Paillard – Brut – NV. (17.8). Fresh, vibrant fruit with intrinsic power. The palate is taut, fine and elegant, with depth and grace. The red fruit notes opening up on a finish that lingers. Balanced, this is a very easy wine to drink and deserves to be popular. Disgorged in 2013, with a blend of Chardonnay 45%/Pinot Noir 33%/Pinot Meuniere 22%. The two years in bottle post disgorgement adds to the richness. The 1^st bottle was affected by cork taint, this review is based on the second.

Pol Roger – Blanc de Blanc – 2004. (18.5+). Restrained and delicate nose. A precise, taut, lean and angular palate, with apple, citrus and nectarine. A long and fine wine that really needs a few years to open up, or serve with freshly shucked oysters now. Dosage = 8gm/l. 9 years on lees.

Louis Roederer – Rosé – 2009. (18.5 – 19). Made by the saignee method. Palest salmon colour. Delicate strawberry and red fruits on the nose and palate, with a hint of brioche. Latent power, but the acid drive confers life and vitality. Excellent length, the fruit lingering to the close. A very fine Champagne that is drinking beautifully despite its relative youth. Chardonnay 62%/Pinot Noir 38%.

Roederer is one of the largest owners of vineyards in Champagne, (240 hectares) allowing them to grow much of their own grapes.

Pol Roger – Rosé – 2006. (18.5 – 19). A complex, powerful nose. Cherry, strawberry and red currant fruit. The palate is compact, yet powerful, with dense red fruit characters, length, and fine acidity. The residual sugar balances the palate perfectly, making for a meal in itself. Seamless palate transition, the fruit lingers for what seems like minutes. Super stuff.

Made in the addition method. Dosage = 10.5gm/l, 6.5yrs on lees. (50% of fruit from own vineyards)

Louis Roederer – 2008. (18.5 – 19). A Very pale straw colour. Very lean and racy, with taut, aspirin like minerality and fresh acidity. Zesty and fine. This is a wine that is crying out for a few years in the cellar to allow the fruit to uncoil and the structure to settle. Lemony acid to close. As this warms in the glass, the depth and structure of the fruit really becomes apparent.

Pinot Noir 70%/Chardonnay 30%, oak fermentation, lees stirring.

Charles Heidsieck – Brut Reserve – NV. (18). Opulent fruit on the nose. The palate is rich, but perfectly balanced, with brioche and coffee notes. The finish is gentle and complete, though the fruit builds in the mouth. After tasting the richness of this wine, it is understandable why it was served last. An excellent drink.

Remarkably, 60% of this wine is from the 2007 vintage, whilst the remaining 40% is made up of reserve wine of between 10 and 15 years age. Dosage =10gm/l, 6 years on lees.

New Release

Barry Weinman: 23^rd October 2015

Cumulus – Chardonnay – Six Hundred Above – 2013 (17.7). Initially, there is subtle stone fruit on both the nose and palate. There is excellent length, and the fruit weight builds with air, complemented by supple oak. This is refined and elegant, allowing for consumption now or in five years. (RRP $32).

Mount Horrocks – Riesling – Corton Cut – 2015 (17.8). (RRP $ 35). Musk and rose petal to open, with pear skin and sherbet highlights. Long and intense, the balance here is the key. The fine acidity is well matched to the sweetness, leaving the finish fresh and alive. Try it with a crème brûlée or simply poached fruit.

The Yard – Riesling – Botrytis – 2013 (17.5). Golden colour. Intense fruit on both the nose and palate, with refreshing acidity to balance the sweetness. This is viscous and luscious, with decent length and mouth-feel. A crowd-pleasing wine that will accompany salted caramel ice-cream with aplomb.

Moss Wood – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Ribbon Vale Vineyard – Botrytis – 2012 (17). Intense apricot stone fruit on the nose. The palate is rich and quite intense, with hints of almond. Not overly complex, but a decent drink.

Vasse Felix Chardonnay

2014 Vintage

Barry Weinman: 18^th October 2015

In her time as winemaker, Virginia Wilcock has consistently produced wines of such high quality that Vasse Felix now rightly sits as one of the top few wineries in the Margaret River Region.

For several years now, the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay released under the Heytesbury label have each been in my top five wines produced in the region.

In 2014, the whole range excelled, from the entry level Filius (Green Capsule), the Premier Chardonnay (Gold Capsule) to the super-premium Heytesbury (White Capsule).

Reviewed

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Filius – 2014 (17.7). A neutral, relatively taut rendition of Chardonnay. This is in the modern, earlier harvest style, with subtle fruit and refreshing acidity. The oak is nearly invisible. With a little air, the fruit builds, providing excellent drinking. Despite being the “entry level” wine, this should fill out with a year or two in the bottle. (RRP $25).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Premier – 2014 (18). In many respects, this is the most approachable of the new releases, offering quality fruit and texturing winemaking influences. The fruit builds depth in the glass. A high quality wine that provides excellent current drinking. (RRP $35).

Vasse Felix – Chardonnay – Heytesbury – 2014 (18.5+). A complex nose, with stone fruit characters over creamy oak and barrel ferment notes. The fruit is refined yet intense on the palate, the oak adding lovely mouth-feel and texture. Near seamless, this is a lovely wine of great intensity. The finish is very long and integrated, with a touch of viscosity and richness. This powerhouse wine will be even better with a couple of years in bottle. (RRP $ 70).

Riesling

Riesling – New Release

Barry Weinman: 9^th October 2015

Riesling must surely be Australia’s best value grape variety. Refreshing in its youth, yet capable of developing wonderful complexity and richness with age.

Riesling can also be made in a variety of styles, from bone-dry to intensely sweet, with all styles in between. It was suggested recently that Champagne was the most versatile of wine styles, but surely Riesling deserves this title, as it can be consumed on its own, or with all manner of food styles.

Reviewed

Pewsey Vale – Riesling – The Contours – 2009 (18+). Lime, minerals, slate, with the first signs of complexity and richness from 6 years in bottle. Steely, lemony acid on a palate that is bright and long. There is also a touch of phenolic richness to close. Drinking a treat now, or any time over the next 10 years. (RRP $35).

Singlefile – Riesling – Mt Barker/Great Southern – 2015 (18.5). A touch of retained CO₂ as demonstrated by a slight effervescence in the glass. Fragrant lime and lemon zest aromas. There is lovely mouth-feel with near seamless palate transition. Very long and fine, this is a delicate, finely balanced wine. (RRP $30).

Singlefile – Riesling – Porongorup – 2015 (18). Delicate, fragrant and perfumed. The palate is refined and elegant. The pristine fruit is of decent quality, though not quite as intense as its sister wine from Mt Barker. There is a near seamless quality on the palate that builds depth with air. Drying finish. (RRP $25).

Mid-Price Shiraz

Mid-Price Shiraz

Barry Weinman: 4th October 2015

This tasting reinforced two points

The diversity of wine styles that can be made with Shiraz
What good value Australian Shiraz can be

I am often asked whether a wine that costs $40 is twice as good as a wine that costs $20. Clearly the answer is no. Like most things in life, the law of diminishing returns applies. The incremental gains in quality become smaller as the price increases. Often, it is the intangible aspects like brand, reputation and label that justify the highest prices.

I also like to point out that mid-price Shiraz offers the best value red wines on the market. Between $15 and $25, there are a number of excellent wines.

In this tasting, there were a number of highlights. None more so than the Shingleback Haycutters. A remarkable wine for the price. That said, every wine reviewed here deserves consideration, be it for delicious current drinking or for cellaring.

Recommended

Xabregas – Shiraz – 2012 (18.3). A very complex nose with earthy, raspberry fruit over chocolate notes. The palate is dominated by ripe fruit with plum, licorice and black pepper. This is multifaceted and evolving. Not for the faint of heart, this is a powerful, Shiraz that will be great now or over the next 5 years. (RRP $26).

Shingleback – Shiraz – Haycutters – 2013 (18+). Fine, intense fruit that is elegant and refined on the nose. The palate is long and dense, with powerful ripe fruit, grippy tannins and texturing cedary notes from the oak. The addition of 2% Viognier no doubt adding to the immediate appeal. A remarkable wine for the price. (RRP $17).

Angove – Shiraz – Family Reserve – 2014 (18).. Dense, chocolaty fruit here, so typical of McLaren Vale. The palate is almost thick, with rich plum, licorice and mocha notes. Concentrated fruit, but not overripe, the fresh acidity and fine tannins conferring life to the finish. Try it with a BBQ steak this spring. (RRP $22).

Hollick – Shiraz – The Baird – 2013 (18). White pepper, raspberry and plum fruit characters over spice, cinnamon and leather The ample fine tannins and texturing oak add to a chewy, mouth filling palate that is both long and intense. A powerful cooler climate wine that is excellent value. (RRP $24).

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2012 (17.8). Fresh, elegant fruit on the nose, with white pepper and spice over satsuma plum and red currant. The finish has vitality, with the elegant fruit the key feature. There is also very good length. Clearly cooler climate, this is a delicious, earlier drinking wine. ($22 from Dan Murphy).

Redman – Shiraz – Coonawara – 2012 (17.8). Real depth and weight to the fruit, with mint, eucalypt, spice and licorice. The palate has vibrant, good quality fruit, but the tannins and acid close the finish down. A serious effort that needs a few years to open up. I preferred this to the current release Cabernets for this Coonawara Stalwart. (RRP $30). (Cork Closure)

Cabernet Sauvignon – New Release

Barry Weinman: 1^st October 2015

I have noticed an interesting trend developing in my cellar of late. I love to buy Shiraz, but I tend to open Cabernet to drink.

There is no doubt that Shiraz produces some of Australia’s greatest, as well as best value wines. At all price-points, there is an abundance of excellent wines available. Finding the same value in Cabernet is more challenging, whilst it is nearly impossible with Pinot and the like.

When it is just my wife and I for dinner, four times out of five, I will end up opening a Cabernet, Pinot or similar, and I find that I am more likely to go back for a second glass. It is a different story when friends come around, as a glass of excellent Shiraz is easy for everyone to appreciate.

There were a number of diverse styles in this tasting. From the inexpensive and ridiculously good Houghton Red-Stripe, to the savoury restraint of the Cumulus, there is a wine for all palates. Importantly, they all offer value at their respective prices.

Reviewed

Cumulus – Merlot – Six Hundred Above – 2013 (18). Quite old-world in style, reminiscent of right bank Bordeaux. A neutral, savoury wine that emphasises structure, mouth-feel and elegance over overt fruit characters. Dense and compact now, there is neutral, refined oak, bright acidity and serious fruit quality. From Orange in NSW, this very cool climate wine demonstrates how good straight Merlot can be. (RRP $32)

Vasse Felix – Cabernet Sauvignon – Gold Capsule – 2012. (18+). Serious quality fruit here, in a refined, restrained package. The fruit on the palate shows mint and gentle herbal notes, silky, texturing oak and fine tannins. This is a smart wine that, whilst delicious now, needs 5 – 10 years to show its best. (RRP $40)

St Mary’s – Cabernet Sauvignon – House Block – 2013 (17.9). Menthol fruit on the nose, typical of Coonawarra. The fruit opens on the palate and gets quite succulent with air. There are herbal notes and mouth-watering acidity to close. Really long, but this needs several years for the fruit to unwind. Excellent fruit quality, made in a traditional style that needs time. ($30 from the winery).

Chateau Lariveau – Cabernet Blend – Canon-Fronsac – La Croix – 2010 (17.8). An excellent drink with gentle red fruits with hints of violets on the nose. The palate is fine, savoury and quite silky. There is real depth here, though the firm, powdery tannins keep the whole package subdued. Will easily take 5 yrs+ in the cellar. (Not yet available in Australia)

Cape Mentelle – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Trinders – 2013 (17.5). Sweet ripe berry fruit that is open and attractive. The palate is bright, with cherry, spice and tar notes. The finish is quite savoury, with gentle oak and tannins giving way to fresh acidity. Excellent drinking. ($24 from the winery).

Houghton – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz/Merlot – Red Stripe – 2013 (17). Bright, fresh and succulent, with red fruits to the fore. The palate is flooded with light, fresh berry characters with just a touch of oak adding complexity. Outrageously good drinking for the price. (RRP $12).