New Release

Barry Weinman: 21^st August 2016

Angove is one of the largest landholders in McLaren Vale, with over 400 acres of vineyards. Surprisingly, over 30% of the vineyards are certified organic, with the rest of the vineyards in the process of being converted.

This must make Angove one of the largest (if not the largest) producers of organic grapes in Australia. The outcome is a range of very smart wines under the “Organic” label. Here, it was the turn of the Shiraz/Cabernet to shine. An excellent effort that represents great drinking given that it can be picked up for $14 or less!

Shingleback have released yet another great value Shiraz under the Red Knot label.

Whilst a little more expensive, the wines from Wolf Blass (Grey Label), Claymore (GSM) and Shingleback (The Gate) really stood out. These are wines that can be enjoyed now, yet will comfortably cellar for a decade. They also represent value in their own way.

At the top end, watch out for the D-Block Reserve wines from Shingleback. These are statement wines that exude class and refinement. Great intensity and power, yet with a degree of elegance that is disarming. Bravo!

Reviewed – White

Leeuwin Estate – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Siblings – 2015 (17.7pts). Fresh aromatics with tropical and herbal notes. Grassy, herbaceous fruit on the palate with plenty of zesty acidity, decent texture and great mouth-feel. Long and refreshing, this will be great served chilled in the warmer months.

Howard Park – Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon – Miamup – 2016 (17.5pts – $28). More tropical fruit here along with crunchy green pear. Light and fresh, with gentle aromatics and a soft, supple mouth-feel aided perhaps by a touch of barrel fermentation. Lemony fruit flavours linger. Very easy to drink.

Reviewed – Cabernet

Shingleback – Cabernet Sauvignon – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.6pts – $55). Impenetrable colour. Very concentrated fruit with blackcurrant and a touch of cassis. The palate is remarkably restrained, with the fruit the primary focus. That said, the quality oak and polished tannins build on what is a very long finish. Much like Penfolds 707, this is more refined, supple and elegant than might be expected, especially given the region’s reputation for Shiraz.

Claymore Wines – Cabernet Sauvignon – O – Bittersweet Symphony – 2014 (17.5pts – $25). Menthol and spice, along with dense blackcurrant fruit. Despite being closed, this shows excellent balance, with the mouth-feel aided by very fine tannins and oak. Long, this needs 10 years, but drinking well now. A fine wine.

Reviewed – Shiraz and Blends

Shingleback – Shiraz – D Block – Reserve – 2012 (18.7pts – $55). Whilst the fruit on the nose has lovely sweet berry characters, there is a savoury component that really adds interest. Tremendous depth and intensity of fruit, prodigious length of flavours, latent power and gravelly tannins. Liquorice, spice, souring acidity add interest, while the oak sits comfortably with the fruit. Will live for decades (cork permitting) but will also do justice to the finest steak you can get your hands on.

Wolf Blass – Shiraz – Grey Label – 2013 (18.5pts – $45). A rich and textured wine, with spicy, almost inky fruit. The fruit here is powerful and taut, with fine acidity and tannins shutting down the palate somewhat. The oak adds depth, but is not intrusive. A fine wine that will easily live for 20 years. Great value at under $35/bottle.

Shingleback – Shiraz – The Gate – 2012 (18.5pts – $35). Vanilla, coffee, cinnamon, mint and just a touch of menthol, over sweet, ripe fruit. The palate is bright, with the fruit carrying the length of the palate. The acidity builds as do the fine, chalky tannins. A lovely wine, though 5 – 10 years is required for it to reach its best. 9 Gold Medals.

Saltram – Shiraz – The Journal – 2010 (18.5+pts – $150). From 100 year old vines, this is fragrant, perfumed and pretty, with red berries and cherry fruit. Mint, along with a delicious streak of liquorice on the palate adds depth. A complex, ripe and skilfully crafted wine with no rough edges. Will live for decades if you are patient.

Claymore Wines – GSM – You’ll Never Walk Alone – 2015 (18.3pts – $20). Quality fruit. Fennel seed, cinnamon, vanilla seed and spice, leading to a palate that is supple, fine and elegant. The mouth-feel and balance are highlights. Near seamless, with great length. A supple, great value wine that can be enjoyed over the next decade.

Patritti – Shiraz – Lot 3 – Single Vineyard – 2013 (18.2pts – $30). Intense and powerful, this has ripe fruit with chocolate and coffee aromas, typical of McLaren Vale. The palate is chewy and textured, the tannins dominating the fruit somewhat, leading to a drying finish. A BIG wine that needs years or a decent steak.

Sandalford – Shiraz – Estate Reserve – 2014 (18pts). Plum, mulberry, cherry, silky spice. A super wine with great length. The flavours build, and I like the balance here; this is a wine with no rough edges, making for a great drink. Should also age well.

Angove – Shiraz/Cabernet – Organic – 2015 (17.9pts – $16). Pretty fruit on both the nose and palate with a hint of white pepper. Medium bodied, vibrant, succulent and juicy. A ripper of a wine that will be perfect with a bowl of pasta and is ready to go right now. A bargain!

Aravina Estate – Shiraz/Tempranillo – The A Collection – 2014 (17.8pts – $23). An unusual blend for Margaret River, this has concentrated, mid weight fruit. Opens with red berries, and plum notes, over cedar, spice and talc like tannins that coat the tongue and suppress the fruit somewhat. Good oak/acid balance. A very good wine that will happily take 5 years in the cellar.Shingleback – Shiraz – Red Knot – 2015 (17.6pts – $15). Vibrant, lively, fresh red berries with cherry, licorice and subtle spice. No obvious oak influences, yet the tannins frame the fruit nicely. An excellent drinking everyday red that will be just as happy on its own as with a lamb roast. Another great value wine under this label.

Leeuwin Estate – Shiraz – Siblings – 2013 (17.5pts – $25). Lighter style, focusing on savoury rather than overt sweet fruit. That said, the fruit quality is very good, as are the length and mouth-feel. A youthful, high quality wine that will provide excellent drinking over the next 5 years.

Plantaganet – Shiraz – 3 Lions – 2014 (17pts – $25). Really plummy fruit on the nose. The palate is bright and fresh, with little in the way of oak. Very fine tannins add depth, but allow the fruit to shine. This is a riper, less complicated st

New Release

Barry Weinman: 14^th August 2016

Every now and then, a wine comes along that is absolutely irresistible straight out of the bottle. On this occasion, it was the Angove Family Crest GSM that blew the panel away. Absolutely delicious and a bargain at $22.

The Patritti GSM showed the same basic characters, but presented them in a package that was a little more structured. Again, brilliant value.

To round out the value stakes, the Singlefile and Leeuwin Estate Cabernets at around $25 represent excellent buying. Wines that can be consumed now, or cellared for a couple of years.

Reviewed

Angove – Grenache/Shiraz/Mouvedre – Family Crest – 2015 (18 – 18.5pts – $22). The fragrant, pretty floral Grenache fruit expresses with plum, cherry and cinnamon spice. The palate is vibrant and fresh, the delicious fruit shimmering against a backdrop of texturing oak. The tannins are fine, adding to the lovely mouth-feel/texture. Good length and depth on the finish too. Supple and very moreish, this is a wine that needs no accompaniment. Everybody needs to try this wine!

Singlefile – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Frankland River – 2014 (18pts – $25). Excellent value, medium-bodied red. Cool climate fruit characters on both the nose and palate, with menthol, spice and fine tannins. This is elegant and balanced, with near seamless plate transition. The length of flavours is noteworthy. Supple and approachable now, yet will happily cellar for a few years.

Voyager Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – 2014 (18pts). Lighter, cooler region style, with menthol, herbal notes and red berry fruit. The palate is fine and long, with real depth. Another wine with near seamless palate transition. Acid rather than tannins drive the finish. Lingers.

Patritti – GSM – Gloria – 2013 (18pts – $18 on sale from the winery). Lovely fruit with real depth. Fragrant and floral, with spice and liquorice notes. The palate has fresh fruit, complemented by fine tannins and a touch of vanillin oak. Excellent length to close. A little more structured than the Angove, this is an impressive wine. A brilliant value wine that would be great with roast beef, or with 5 -10 years in the cellar.

Bird in Hand – Merlot – 2013 (18pts – $43). Really quite fine, with supple, elegant fruit on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, restrained and taut, yet the fruit lingers. The tannins and oak add depth, but in no way dominate. Opens to show mulberry and spice. Excellent wine.

Leeuwin Estate – Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot – Prelude – 2012 (17.7pts). I like the balance here. Relatively forward berry fruit is nicely matched to savoury, cedary oak and fine tannins. Not overly dense or complicated, thus allowing the fruit to shine. Decent length to close. Great short-term drinking.

Castagna Wines

Barry Weinman – 5^th July 2016

The original vineyards at Castagna were planted by Julian Castagna in 1997 and are now certified Biodynamic. Winemaking is handled by Julian who has a strong desire to let the fruit and the region speak for itself. That said, if there is one similarity to all the wines, it is the textural way the wines express on the palate. There are plenty of winemaker’s influences, yet the elegant fruit is allowed to shine.

The fruit for the Growers Selection range comes from several local vineyards, whilst the Castagna range is all from the estate vineyards. All wines are sealed with a Diam cork, removing the risks associated with natural cork.

Given the praise that the wines of Castagna have received on the East Coast, it has always surprised me that their profile has not been higher in the West. That is set to change after a chance meeting of proprietor Julian Castagna with Rob Palandri from distributor Vranken Pommery, which led to a distribution agreement.

My favourites within the range are listed below, but also watch out for a really interesting Vermouth!

Reviewed.

Castagna – Chardonnay – Grower’s Selection – 2014. ($50). Complex worked characters as a result of extended aging in oak and on lees. Very attractive curry leaf minerality, stone fruit and struck match aromas. The palate is creamy and textured, yet with a degree of freshness and verve. The palate is very long, with pineapple acidity to close.

Castagna – White Blend – Harlequin – 2013 ($35). Floral and perfumed, with apricot, nectarine and hints of almond. The palate is textured, somewhat viscous and very delicious, with a slightly chewy finish. A wine with personality that will work well with food.

Castagna – Sangiovese – La Chiave – 2013 ($85). The Sangiovese is thought to be the Brunello clone. Cuttings were sourced from a vine in Mirtleford that was planted in the 1920s by a migrant from Montalcino. Lovely pepper and spice, with a silky mouth-feel. The finish is long, fine and textured, with the red fruits lingering for some time. Supple and delicious!

Castagna – Shiraz – Genesis – 2013 ($85). Vine cuttings came from 1850s plantings sourced from five vineyards in Victoria and McLaren Vale. Cinnamon, plum, licorice and savoury spice notes on the nose. The palate is dense, yet refined, with slightly chewy tannins. Almost feminine, this is remarkably approachable, but will live for years, courtesy of the excellent acid balance. Spent almost two years in oak and includes 2% Viognier.

New Release – May 2016

Barry Weinman: 21^th May 2016

Everyone loves a bargain; a wine that punches above its weight. A wine that drinks like a more expensive example. The good news for the bargain hunters is that Angove has hit the jackpot with its Long Row Cabernet.

I am not recommending this because it is cheap. This is a wine that drinks very well regardless of its price. A wine that I am happy to recommend to anyone who is looking for an uncomplicated red wine for that glass of wine mid-week, or to share with friends round a BBQ. That it will be available for under $10 makes it one of the wine-bargain of the year. (Dan Murphy has it for under $8).

The panel was unanimous in its praise for this wine. You could have heard a pin drop when the wine was unveiled; such was our amazement at the value being offered. I will be putting some in my cellar!

The Drayton’s Verdelho also caused quite a stir. This is a wine that offering so much more than a cheap NZ Sauvignon Blanc, yet Cellarmasters were selling it for $8.25. They have just switched over to the 2015 vintage, but if it is anything like the 2014, it will be a brilliant buy,

The Fume Blanc from Singlefile caused plenty of discussion. True to style, the (quality) oak stamps its presence on the palate, but at this early stage, it comes at the expense of fruit expression. I am sure that a few years in bottle will see this come into its own, and the $30 price tag seems very reasonable.

The SSB and Pinot Gris on the other hand, will be drinking a treat over the next year or two, and made the review below.

Reviewed

Angove – Chardonnay – Long Row – 2015 (16.2pts – $10). Smells like a proper Chardonnay, with quite ripe stonefruit characters. The palate has gentle creamy notes, hints of honey, musk and even a touch of minerality. The finish is clean and neutral, with a textural component that will work well with food. This is not a great wine by any means, but it is a good value quaff and great value for those on a tight budget.Drayton’s – Verdelho – Bellevue – 2014 (17pts – $9). Melon and citrus notes evolve on the nose. The palate is fresh and lively, with crunchy pear characters and well-judged acidity. The palate transition works very well and the length is noteworthy. Will accompany grilled squid or paella perfectly. (Cellarmasters has the 2015 for $8.25).

Singlefile – Pinot Gris – Pemberton – 2015 (17.5pts – $30). Very pale colour. Lovely floral fruit on the nose with pear and apple. The palate has excellent mouth-feel and texture, the fruit has hints of citrus and white peach. The slight phenolic grip, combined with fine acidity gives the finish drive and length.

Singlefile – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc – Denmark – 2015 (17.5pts – $25). Enticing nose, with lantana, gooseberry, cumquat and musk. The palate is zesty, yet quite restrained, with the tropical fruit notes continuing on a very long palate. A smart wine indeed.Angove – Cabernet Sauvignon – Long Row – 2014. (17 – 17.5pts – $10). Whilst the origin of the fruit is not listed, this displays quite cool red fruits, with touches of herbs and mint. That said, there is clear varietal expression. The palate is mid weight and balanced, with fresh berry fruits combined with a herbal edge. A touch of cedar adds complexity, whilst the mouth-feel is supple and the length good. Surprising quality. A brilliant value dry red.

Howard Park – Cabernet Sauvignon – Abercrombie – 2013 (18.5+pts – $130). Whilst only medium bodied, there is amazing concentration to the fruit, with blackcurrant, cassis, menthol and a touch of fresh herbs. The palate is firm and structured, reminding me of fine Bordeaux. The length and persistence are exceptional. The cedary/vanillin oak and fine tannins shut down the fruit somewhat, put the potential is obvious. Needs ten years to hit its straps, and twenty would see this in its prime. Remarkable wine, but be patient.

Thorn-Clarke

Barry Weinman: 5^th March 2016

David and Cheryl Clarke bought and planted the first parcel of land for what is now Thorne-Clarke wines in 1987. Cheryl’s family (The Thorn’s) has grown grapes in the Barossa since the 1870s and, thanks to a vineyard owned by Cheryl’s dad (Ron Thorn), the winery has access to some of the oldest Shiraz vines in the world.

In addition to the two Barossa Valley vineyards, there are two in the Eden Valley. One is focussed on red grapes (Milton Park) and the other white grapes (Mt Crawford).

Reviewed

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Sandpiper – 2015 (17.5). Floral notes and a touch of perfume, with lanolin highlights. The palate is round and supple, with musk and passionfruit over zesty lemon. Good length and fine acid and structure to close. A good drink. (RRP $19, but you can pick this up for around $15).

Thorn Clarke – Riesling – Eden Trail – 2015 (18). A pretty nose, with lovely floral notes and perfume. The palate is fine and elegant, with the structure and mouth-feel the key features. The gentle fruit sits well against this, making this a good drink now, but also ensuring that the wine will gain depth and presence in the bottle for many years. (RRP $24).

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Sandpiper – 2014 (17.5). (RRP $19). Sweet fruit that is attractive and succulent, with plum, licorice and a touch of cedar. The palate has fresh berry fruit, a touch of spice and is very gluggable. Delicious early consumption wine from the Barossa

Thorn Clarke – Shiraz – Eden Trail – 2014 (18). This has plum, spice and cherry fruit. The ripe fruit on the palate has excellent balance. The structure is quite silky, yet there is enough tannins and acid to keep the balance and allow for medium term aging. The length is commendable, with the oak framing the fruit nicely. Very approachable now, this was still looking good several days later. (RRP $28).

New Release Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

Barry Weinman: 28^th August 2015

This week, the panel looked through a number of interesting wines, spanning several tastings. Of the 50 wines tasted, the ones reviewed here stood out for a number of reasons.

Wines like the Bird in Hand Chardonnay shone for their sheer quality. The Woodlands Pinot Noir was a surprise packet from Margaret River, whilst the La Violetta Riesling pushed winemaking boundaries, resulting in a beautifully complex and savoury wine.

Riesling

La Violetta – Riesling – das Sakrileg – 2014 (18). Well defined Riesling characters, with subtle lime juice and musk characters over fragrant pear notes. On the palate, the fruit is balanced by a touch of nuttiness to close, with gentle phenolic richness (aided by barrel fermentation) adding texture. A smart wine that will be great now, or any time over the next 10 years. (RRP $32).

Knappstein – Riesling – Clare Valley – 2014 (17.5). Quite complex, with a blend of citrus aromas and mineral notes. A touch of phenolic richness comes through on the nose and palate. Textural, the mouth-feel is excellent and there is decent length and persistence. Good now, or in 5 years. (RRP $20).

Chardonnay

Bird in Hand – Chardonnay – Adelaide Hills – 2014 ($18.5). Bright fruit with some creamy notes on the nose. The palate is creamy and nicely textured. The nutty characters meld with stone fruit and citrus into a lovely, complete wine. Refined, elegant and long, the fruit persists for some time. Mineral characters build on the finish. Delicious! (RRP $42).

Morlet – Chardonnay – 2011 (17.8). Well made and approachable, yet with depth to the fruit. Initially, the fruit is quite muted, but this really builds on the finish, complemented by creamy oak that adds a touch of toasty goodness to the close. Great drinking and unpretentious.

Flametree – Chardonnay – 2014 (17.5 – 18) (RRP $27). Opens with fresh pineapple, grapefruit and lemon peel, though this is quite lean and taut. Decent length, with quality oak adding to the mouth-feel. Needs a few years, and will probably get higher marks in the future.

Fifth Estate – Chardonnay – Krugers Block – 2011 (17.5). Almost golden in colour. Clear varietal definition on the nose, with some minerality to the peach like fruit. The palate is creamy, with a touch of toast courtesy of the oak adding support to the medium weight fruit. Not overly dense, but a good drink.

Pinot Noir

Ostler – Pinot Noir – Caroline’s – 2011 (18). Quite closed and restrained on the nose. The palate has fresh fruit over complex forest floor notes. Cherry, strawberry and plum all come to mind. Long and refined finish, with just a touch of grilled meat on the close. Supple smoky notes from the oak add interest. Very good now or in 5 years. Another good wine from this producer.

Woodlands – Pinot Noir – Reserve De La Cave – 2013 (18). (N/A). Lighter colour, tending to orange on the rim. Quite dense and complex fruit on the nose. The mouth-feel is a highlight, with texture and depth to the fruit. The oak rounds out the finish, with a touch of leather/earthiness to add interest. A decent drinking Pinot of some charm. A surprise package.

Dawson and James – Pinot Noir – D – 2011 (17.8). Mid red colour. Seductive, sensuous nose with hints of strawberry and fennel. The palate is rich and textured, with supple fruit, gentle acid and fine tannins. A touch of stalkiness to close keeps the palate fresh, but this is ideal for immediate consumption.